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  • Christie's - Live And Let Die


    The present Rolex ref. 5513, modified by the famous Q Branch, is certainly the most memorable Submariner to appear in movies and must be considered a veritable trophy not only for the watch aficionado but also for the amateurs of cinematography and of James Bond in general.

    Especially designed for James Bond to be worn during 007''s mission in Live and Let Die, it was created in 1972 by the world-famous film production designer Syd Cain.
    Featuring not only a bezel spinning at high speed to cut ropes and chains, in the movie it also bore an ultra-b magnet which was supposed to neutralize bullets but was, instead, used by 007 to unzip Ms. Solitaire's dress.
    The lot will be sold together with an original construction drawing and two signed images from the set (estimate: SFr. 200,000 - 400,000).

  • Trend - Big Ego Watches


    WORLDTEMPUS - 18 March 2011

    "If you're shy, you cannot go round with this car. It's a special car for special people. You need a big ego. It's like going out in the evening with a beautiful woman - it's not for everyone," said Daniele Adetto, responsible for the PR of the Lamborghini Countach, talking to Morley Safer of the U.S.'s "60 Minutes" TV show back in 1987.
    This powerful Italian car certainly was a spectacular piece of work. Only three left the Italian car factory back in the 1980s each week - hand assembled, of course, it was the hottest car around back then: dramatically low, fitted with a large back spoiler and looking like "a sexy virgin" in white, according to Adetto.
    Watching the interview on YouTube, I cannot help comparing the Countach with some of the spectacular watches offered on the market today. These watches look like nothing else, and they are created by people who not only explore creative and innovative high-end horology, but also understand how to communicate it.

    The Ego Watches

    Wearing a watch like the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon, the MB&F ReBel, Urwerk's Tarantula, or the ultra-light Richard Mille RM 027 Tourbillon undoubtedly demands a certain ego.
    These watches are the crazy Lamborghini of the 1980s. These watches are the impossibly long-legged Brazilian beauties that leave a fancy restaurant strutting their stuff between the tables - holding your hand. These watches certainly take a certain kind of man with a certain kind of ego. These watches, indeed, are not for everyone, as Adetto claimed of the Lamborghini.
    Anyone can buy a Rolex, Breitling or Omega and be an instant member of the luxury watch club. But people wearing one of the more exotic watches mentioned here belong to a very different kind of club. They would probably never wear a Rolex, Breitling or Omega again (however, this is most likely where they started out when they entered the horological scene). These watches are, of course, nice, but they are too commercial for an experienced person in the know. They do not boost the inner horological ego that demands something way out of the ordinary.
    Wear with Caution
    Remember the movie classic "Cannonball"? Adrienne Barbeau and Tara Buckman starred as Marcie and Jill: two Spandex-clad hotties in a black Lamborghini Countach. Pretty? Yes. Over the top? Indeed!
    Just like a Countach driven by the wrong guy will expose him as a poser trying to compensate for losing his childhood sweetheart to Butch the Bully, so an Excalibur Double Tourbillon on the wrong wrist will expose the nouveau riche, the fake enthusiast who does not understand that such extravagant accessories are like every other human endeavor: understatement wins you the respect you deserve. So buy the RM 027, but wear long sleeves. Indulge in the Tarantula, but only wear it in the company of friends. And in the name of everything that's holy, don't drive a Countach AND wear a ReBel at the same time.

  • Arcadia - Rebirth of the Brand


    Swiss watchmaking has continued to reinvent itself throughout the centuries as Swiss craftsmen, inspired by their passion and love of tradition, strive to enhance their precision expertise.
    Maison Bunter, one of the leading specialists in major complications and jewel-setting, has been fired by such passion for some 155 years. Today Bunter is proud to present Arcadia: an innovative watchmaking concept that rises to the challenge of reviving one of the greatest emblems of Switzerland's watchmaking heritage.


    During the 19th century the Arcadia brand was the symbol of Swiss watchmaking excellence and the standard-bearer of the celebrated Fleurier Watch Company, whose creative approach would inspire generations of watchmakers. Now, after falling victim to the 'quartz revolution,' Arcadia, and its incredibly avant-garde models, are being reborn under Bunter President Claude Sanz - a passionate devotee of watchmaking history.
    This new adventure, imbued with unfettered imagination, offers a fresh approach to communicating the values of traditional Swiss watchmaking around the world.

    HISTORY
    1858 - 1970 : Arcadia

    In the early 19th century Swiss watchmaking - hitherto a craftsman's activity - enjoyed one of its earliest industrial booms.
    Thanks to Edouard Bovet, one of the first watchmakers to target the Far Eastern market, the number of watchmakers in Fleurier (a village in the Val-de-Travers near Neuchâtel) more than tripled inside 30 years.
    Jules-Samuel Jequier, who was born in the village in 1835, chose to devote his life to watchmaking from an early age. He joined Bovet in 1856 after training as a jewel-cutter and, thanks to his enthusiasm and entrepreneurial zest, rose swiftly through the firm's ranks.
    Later, helped by his five sons, Jules-Samuel Jequier founded the Fleurier Watch Company, a manufacturer devoted to jewel-cutting and designing watch calibres. The growth of the watchmaking industry would inspire the Jequiers to launch a number of different watchmaking brands.
    Among them: Arcadia.


    rcadia was founded in 1858 and became the flagship of the Fleurier Watch Company. The classically-inspired Fleurier brand enjoyed great renown among connoisseurs of quality watches, epitomized by names like Breitling and Rolex.
    Arcadia watches displayed amazing creativity for the time.
    This avant-garde brand produced some particularly stylish collections, typified by some of its early 20th century models - symbols of Swiss ancestral tradition imbued with modern, indeed contemporary, vision.
    But the arrival of quartz was to be the downfall for many Swiss watchmakers, who failed to realize the importance of the 1970s electronic revolution. Swiss mechanical watches were left behind by cheap, mass-produced, electronic watches from abroad. The resultant economic crisis lasted 15 years and threatened the entire sector, coming close to completely destroying traditional Swiss watchmaking.
    Many Swiss watchmaking firms were forced to close, taking with them the brands which had underpinned their success. Arcadia was no exception and, over a century after its launch by the Fleurier Watch Company, sank into oblivion.


    2010 : Rebirth of Arcadia

    Arcadia represents the crowning glory to an exceptional career and the fulfilment of a dream for a man to whom watchmaking is far more than a job. Claude Sanz cuts a unique figure in the watchmaking world: a trained geologist and mineralogist, as well as an expert in setting and mechanical complications.
    Nearly forty years ago Sanz acquired Bunter, a firm specializing in the cutting of industrial stones and rubies needed for watchmaking. Today, thanks to their mastery of invisible settings and de luxe, made-to-measure projects, Bunter are recognized by all the pre-eminent Swiss watchmaking firms.
    For Sanz, work is a passion: a passion for timepieces, for horological savoir-faire and for watchmaking history. It is also a dream... one he has secretly entertained for many years, to blend his skill and experience with the launch of a watchmaking brand that would write the final chapter of a story that began 35 years ago.
    "When you make watch components, you inevitably think about creating your own brand," says Sanz.
    But his ambition goes further. As a keen historian, he dreams of pursuing the mission of a Swiss watchmaking firm in the purest mechanical tradition - albeit one adapted to the contemporary era.
    In the 1990s Claude Sanz learnt about the incredible story of the Fleurier Watch Company and its star brand, Arcadia. He was fascinated by this forgotten watchmaking venture, and promptly decided to take over the Arcadia brand - which had fallen into the public domain - and revive its century-old traditions. "Arcadia calibres were highly innovative for the time, and the Fleurier Watch Company was considered an international ambassador of Swiss watchmaking," he explains. Today the industry is witnessing a return to small mechanical movements, so Arcadia is perfect for the 21st century! It's the start of a whole new adventure.
    The Arcadia renaissance is underway. With Bunter's structural and technical support, Claude Sanz has set about renovating each Arcadia calibre in the purest watchmaking tradition, inserting them into modern cases with sleek designs, made using the latest avant-garde technologies and materials.
    A combination of the richness of the past and the boldness of the future, Arcadia aims to showcase and perpetuate an exceptional, time-honoured, heritage on the international scene - and restore the prestige of a watchmaking symbol that was the pride of Switzerland for over a hundred years.


    AC01 : Transcending tradition
    With its modern, virile look, the first re-edition of the Arcadia collection strides confidently into the 21st century - while retaining the utmost respect for watchmaking's greatest traditions.


    This can be seen in the powerful design of this audaciously restyled retro model. While retaining its DNA - rounded shapes for the watch and displays within a tonneau case - the Arcadia AC01 has been entirely redesigned in line with today's technical codes. This new design approach is one of extremes: the watch combines harmonious volumes with aggressive elegance, with visible screws and push-pieces reworked to appear part of the case.
    The watch is made from such avant-garde materials as titanium (for the case), carbon (for the split-level dial), and anti-allergenic technological fibre (for the strap), married to watchmaking functions that evoke the awesome savoir-faire of the Fleurier Watch Company: the hour-and-minute display in the centre of the dial is surrounded by four skillfully juxtaposed sub-dials with original, extra functions (including chronograph, date and 24-hour time-zone index). The automatic movement, with 18-carat pink gold rotor, can be admired through a transparent case-back.
    Watchmaking tradition transcended! The watch is edited in a limited series of 275, and offered for sale with a revolutionary concept ideally suited to the era of new technologies: much in the manner of an iPhone or iPad, all data linked to the model (guarantee, aftersale service, orders for further timepieces) is entered on a USB key given to the owner and activated on-line at time of purchase.
    Another novelty: each Arcadia model comes with a travelling case in supple, ultra-resistant neoprene for easy transport and maximum protection.

  • Antiquorum - The World's Most Complicated Timepiece

    Antiquorum's upcoming 35th anniversary sale on November 14th & 15th in Geneva is rapidly approaching and collectors can look forward to bidding on a wide variety of spectacular timepieces. Highlighting the auction is the world's most complicated and highly coveted timepiece - the famous Patek Philippe Calibre 89. In addition, there will be over 300 exceptional modern and vintage timepieces offered in the Antiquorum sale to be held at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva. Prior to the auction, clients can preview these outstanding watches in Shanghai, Hong Kong, and Geneva.
    Lot 364


    Antiquorum is delighted to offer the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 from the Matsuda Collection - the world's most complicated timepiece with a total of 33 complications - in our 35th anniversary sale on November 14th and 15th. As this extraordinary timepiece is rarely seen at auction, this is an exceptional opportunity for collectors to acquire one of the most important timepieces in existence. Only four unique models of the Calibre 89 were ever produced; one each in yellow, pink and white gold and one in platinum. The present Calibre 89 in yellow gold was previously sold by Antiquorum in our April 9, 1989 sale of "The Art of Patek Philippe" to commemorate the 150th anniversary of Patek Philippe; while the Calibre 89 in white gold was sold in our 30th anniversary sale on April 24th, 2004.
    Lot 361


    Moreover, for the Patek aficionado, there is a Patek Philippe "Officier Repetitions Minutes," Ref. 5029. This exceptional timepiece was made in a limited edition of 10 examples in 1998 to commemorate the inauguration of the new Patek Philippe manufactory in Geneva. Sold September 25th, 1998, it is a very fine and extremely rare, minute-repeating, self-winding, 18K yellow gold chronometer wristwatch.
    Lot 335


    Another incredible Patek Philippe timepiece being offered is the Patek Philippe Ref. 2497 with luminous black dial. Produced in 1955 and sold on June 8th, 1962, this outstanding timepiece is an extremely fine and equally rare, center-seconds, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar, and moon phases.
    Lot 362


    Additionally, a Patek Philippe "Minute Repeater", Ref. 3979 will be on the auction block. Made in 1998, it is a very fine and rare, minute repeating, self-winding, 18K yellow gold wristwatch.
    Lot 185


    Also included in the November sale is the Patek Philippe Ref. 3990. This exceptional and rare watch was produced circa 2000 and is now no longer in production. It is a very fine and important, astronomic, water-resistant, platinum and diamonds gentleman's wristwatch with round button chronograph, register, perpetual calendar, moon phases and sapphire crystal back.
    Lot 187


    In addition, there will also be a Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 with pulsometer scale offered in the upcoming sale. The exquisite watch was produced in 1953, and sold on March 7th, 1955. It is an extremely fine and very rare, water-resistant, 18K pink gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, 30-minute register and pulsometer scale graduated for 15 pulsations.
    Lot 358


    Furthermore, a Patek Philippe Ref. 1436 retailed by Tiffany will be amongst the highlights in the November sale. Made circa 1969, it is an extremely fine and rare, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with square button, co-axial split-seconds chronograph, 30-minute register and tachometer.
    Lot 352


    Also for the Patek Philippe enthusiast, there is the Patek Philippe Re. 2481 with tropics cloisonne dial. This remarkable timepiece was produced in 1954 and sold on October 2nd, 1956. It is an extremely fine and equally rare, center-seconds, 18K pink gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel "Tropics" dial.
    Lot 278


    Fans of Richard Mille will want to bid on the Richard Mille "Tourbillon RM0003". This superb timepiece is a two-time zone, 18K white gold wristwatch with visible one-minute tourbillon regulator.

    Lot 298


    Another rare and sought after timepiece included in the sale is the Audemars Piguet dress watch retailed by Gubelin. This superb timepiece is a 18k white gold and enamel watch with perpetual calendar, minute repeater and split second second chronograph.
    Lot 346


    An additional extraordinary watch with cloisonne dial offered is the Rolex Ref. 6100, "Galleon Cloissone Dial." Produced in 1952, it is an exceptionally rare and fine, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel galleon dial .
    Estimate:****


    Auction Previews:
    The timepieces of this auction will be on view as follows:
    • SHANGHAI
    November 3 & 4:
    10:30 a.m. - 6:30 p.m.
    Antiquorum Shanghai
    Room 4106B,
    Bund Centre Office Tower,
    222 Yan An Road East,
    Shanghai 200002, China
    Tel.+86 21 6335 1268
    • HONG KONG
    November 6 & 7:
    11:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
    Antiquorum Auctioneers (HK) Ltd.
    Suite 1405, 9 Queen's Rd. Central,
    Hong Kong, China
    Tel. + 852 2522 4168

    GENEVA
    November 12 to 15:
    10:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
    Antiquorum's Showroom
    2, rue du Mont-Blanc
    1201 Geneva, Switzerland
    Tel.+ 41 (0)22 909 28 50
    Auction:
    First Session: Saturday, November 14 (lots 1 - 187) begins at 3:00 p.m.
    Second Session: Sunday, November 15 (lots 188 - 364) begins 3:00 p.m.

  • Chronicle - Only one watch!

    22 June 2009
    - www.fratellowatches.com
    I don't consider myself a collector of watches, I just 'collect' what I will actually be wearing. I had a modest collection of new & vintage Omega watches in the past, but I traded most of them for watches that would actually see some daylight every now and then instead of the inside of a safe.  
    For me, this results in buying 'iconic' watches most of the time. True classics in terms of design, movement, history or a combination of all these aspects. For example, these icons include the Omega Speedmaster Professional, Rolex GMT-Master and (recently added) the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Michael Balfour wrote a nice book about iconic timepieces called ' Cult Watches'. Of course, some people may think differently on what an iconic timepiece may be. I can imagine that there are watch aficionados who consider an Ikepod Cunningham or a Bell & Ross BR01 to be cult watches as well.

    Anyway, in the 10 years I have been buying or collecting timepieces, I always envied the people that just have one watch. Like the guy in the Patek Philippe advertisements, having a nice Patek Nautilus ref. 5711/1A, wear it almost a life time and then pass it on to the next generation (or someone else you love or care for). And in the beginning, I actually thought that an Omega Constellation would be my perfect "only watch". Or my Speedmaster Professional. Or my Rolex Sea-Dweller. Although I was able to wear a timepieces for months in a row, it turned out that I kept rotating timepieces from my collection (or buying new/other ones).


    On some of the online watch forums, contributors tend to write about their latest acquisition as being their exit watch. By exit watch, they mean that they finally found their "only watch". Of course, after a while you see the same contributors adding a message that they bought something else or something new. To quote Michael Corleone in The Godfather part III, "Just when I thought I was out... they pull me back in."
    Let me tell you this: There is no exit watch. At least, not for us watch addicts. An Omega Speedmaster Professional could be a perfect only watch. Or a Rolex GMT-Master. Or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. For a lot of people, they probably are. But we are spoiled. We complain about having no date on a Speedmaster Professional, the Royal Oak being a scratch magnet, the GMT-Master for not being as water resistant as a Sea-Dweller. It is rubbish. Normal people probably don't even come up with these lame excuses.
    Would finding a new passion be a solution (or an excuse to only have one watch)? I guess not, because as soon as the word 'collect' comes in, you are lost… It doesn't matter what the subject will be.

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