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Top Quality Rolex Automatic Watches (2164) Items
Top Quality Rolex Automatic Watches (2164) Items

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Watches News

  • Newsletter - How to name a watch

    Telling the difference between a Carrera and a Daytona is easy, as is spotting an Aqua Terra from a Terra Luna. You don't even need the brand names to help you. But what about the new collections by Emile Chouriet and Ernest Borel, two Swiss brands with a presence in Hong Kong and China that is difficult to conceive unless you have been there and seen the giant billboards that dominate the skyline. The two new models presented today on WorldTempus both embody the ultra-classic style that appeals to the Chinese consumer, combined of course with an affordable Swiss Made calibre. They go to show that at a certain price point buyers are definitely making their choices based on looks rather than brand or collection names.

    Inspired by a photo showing 18 Rolex Submariner "Comex" watches on the Internet, David Chokron offers some interesting insights into the notion of exclusivity in watchmaking. Can a one-thousand-piece limited edition (not to mention a 15,007-piece one) really be considered as exclusive?

    Our build-up to the GPHG 2015 officially starts this week as Camille Gendre takes a look back over 14 years of Aiguille d'Or winners. Will she find a pattern that could give a hint about this year's winner? We will continue over the coming weeks with a look at the members of the 2015 jury and some interviews with previous winners.

  • Foreword - A quarter-century in resolutely feminine mode

    Exuding a free-spirited, independent, impetuous, innovative, welcoming, soft, comfortable and elegant aura for the past 25 years, the SIHH certainly qualifi es for a number of adjectives typically associated with the fair sex. The SIHH will be celebrating its quarter- century in January 2015, and like countless other women, it has left an indelible imprint on the measurement of time.

    Women have constantly and variously served as the poet's secret muse, the artist's precious inspiration, the politician's wise advisor or the musician's perceptive shadow. They have occupied a prime role in History, whether in the spotlight or in the background, consistently exercising authentic infl uence, whether deliberately or not. Nor should one forget that women have been, still are and always will be the great civilizing power in the world! Horology is no exception to the rule and its history has been regularly punctuated by women. The latter notably inspired wristwatches and were the fi rst to wear them : from Elizabeth I of England to the dainty jewelry models of the Directory and Empire periods, right the way through to Mercedes Gleitze who swam across the channel with a Rolex Oyster watch on her wrist.

    Today, if "woman is the future of man" as the French poet Aragon famously proclaimed in 1952, women's watches are undoubtedly the future of the watch itself. 25 years ago, in taking on the seemingly crazy challenge of creating the fi rst show dedicated to Fine Watchmaking in Geneva, the cradle of the industry, the SIHH endowed Haute Horlogerie with its authentically global dimension. Ever since, year after year, it has been setting the tone for watch trends, catalyzing ceaselessly renewed and perpetuated innovations, expertise and skills. It is endowed with a unique ability to unite, to share, to love and to spread the love. Because the SIHH is feminine to the core !
    Fabienne Lupo
    Chairwoman and Managing Director of the SIHH

  • Chanel - Lasting luxury in the heart of Parisian culture

    The boutique was open for three months ending on September 1, in time to take advantage of the summer tourist season. In a crisp decor bathing in the signature black and white colors of Coco Chanel, the boutique showcased some of the house's iconic models, immortalized by the talents of the photographer Patrick Demarchelier who shot Chanel's most recent publicity campaign titled "L'Instant Chanel."

    The boutique offered museum visitors, on their way to see Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa, a chance to admire Chanel's new J12-365, the new Premiere with its triple row bracelet, and the J12 Blue Light, a version of the J12 in white "hi-tech" ceramic and luminescent blue numerals.


    "The idea of the pop-up store was a reference to 1987 when we first opened a boutique dedicated to watches on Avenue Montaigne that launched a new era in watchmaking for Chanel," said Nicolas Beau, international director of Chanel Horlogerie. "Our goal has always been to make beautiful watches where mechanics are at the service of aesthetics," Mr. Beau said.

    For a brand that places a high value on creativity and aesthetics, the enclosure of Musee du Louvre, one of France's most revered cultural venues, offers the means to combine the experience of a luxury boutique with that of an art museum. For Chanel, it is a means to intimate the association between luxury and cultural heritage, inscribing its luxury products in the long-term tradition of culture.

    "The appeal of Chanel's products is their lasting appeal," Mr. Beau explained.  "The Chanel no. 5 perfume has been around since 1921. It is not a trend-based product. The same is true of the little black dress and the quilted Chanel bag."

    The relationship to art allows luxury products to acquire the characteristics of art by association, including uniqueness, legitimacy and permanence. "Chanel makes products that last and remain desirable," Mr. Beau said. "Few luxury brands have a portfolio of products with an endless lifetime. That is what lives in the Chanel name and was invented by Gabriel Chanel."

    Over the years, Chanel has experimented with the idea of connecting art to its luxury products. In 2008, for instance, it commissioned the Mobile Art Pavilion, a 700-square meter futuristic structure designed by the Pritzker-award winning architect, Zaha Hadid, filled with works commissioned from 20 international contemporary artists asked to interpret the brand's iconic quilted 2.55 handbag, the black, stitched-leather purse designed by Coco Chanel in 1955.


    Establishing a presence, ephemeral or not, in close proximity to the Louvre, a prime international cultural destination, also enables luxury brands to benefit from the rising trend in cultural tourism.

    Last year, the Louvre welcomed 9.3 million visitors making it not just the most visited attraction in Paris, but also the most visited museum in the world, ahead of the British Museum in London (with 6.7 million visitors) and the Metropolitan Museum in New York (with 6.3 million visitors), according to figures published last April by the Art Newspaper.  

    According to Paolo de Cesare, Le Printemps's president, a luxury goods department in the commercial area of the museum enables tourists to satisfy their two principal reasons for being there, luxury shopping and culture.  

    The Louvre expects attendance numbers to rise by 30 percent over the next decade, forecasting some 12 million visitors by 2025. Le Printemps du Louvre estimates its revenues to top €20 million this year alone.

     A number of high-end watch brands including Chopard, Rolex, Montblanc, Hermes and Parmigiani are already present in the Carrousel du Louvre. With the 2014 edition of the Salon des Belles Montres set to take place in the same venue next November, the list is likely to grow.

  • Colas - Watchmaking and the ventral striatum

    Recent scientific research conducted by German psychologists looked at the manner in which the brands condition, stimulate and influence our brains and therefore the manner in which we perceive reality. How do brands affect our brains and how also do incorrect information on the brands in question alter our perception right into the furthest recesses of our neuronal cavity. These are the questions that were asked by researchers Simone Kuhn and Jurgen Galllinat.
    Learnedly entitled "Does Taste Matter? How Anticipation of Cola Brands Influences Gustatory Processing in the Brain", their very serious experiment involved having MRI scans conducted on some 15 people (all perfectly sane, with no particular neurological or medical history, explain the researchers who also emphasise that "they were all right-handed" - doubtless because in left-handed people, the brain lobes are the other way round). Two specific areas of the brain were targeted: the orbitofrontal cortices, the home of subjective thought that given to different products one sees, and the ventral striatum, the area connected to reward and pleasure. An area which, as we will see, can "light up" at the slightest mention of a known brand, suggesting all the promises of "pleasure" that it is supposed to bring us.
     

    The MRI guinea pigs were given four samples of a cola drink through a tube for them to give their opinion of each sample on a scale from 1 to 8. However these samples were not anonymous - and prior to each ingestion (repeated several times in different quantities), the logo of the brand was quickly shown on a screen: Coke, Pepsi, River Cola (a cheap brand that is well-known in Germany) and an imaginary T-Cola. To reinforce the guinea-pigs' belief, they were allowed to see four large syringes, all different, duly labelled with the name of the various brands.
    Unsurprisingly, Coke and Pepsi won the vote hands down, leaving the other brands streets behind. Certain participants, the study explains, even express their b preference for Coke and Pepsi and their dislike of other brands. The glitch? The four mixtures were perfectly identical, and all strictly composed of a mixture of Coke, Pepsi, River and T in equal parts.

    The result of the MRI scan showed that the orbitofrontal cortex where worth is evaluated was less used in the case of well-known or recognised brands, because this worth is retained and accepted in our connections. If one transposes this into the realm of watchmaking, one could say that on the scale of watchmaking brands, the orbitofrontal cortex does not need to get involved when it hears the word "Rolex", but will work overtime at the sound of the brand "Von Graffenried & Cousins", for example.
    On the other hand, the ventral striatum which is the centre of reward and pleasure becomes active at the very name of a known brand - while it remains completely "silent" when it comes to unknown brands. Brands therefore have the power to arouse those neurones responsible for pleasure, reward and satisfaction to the point of preventive titillation.
     


    Continuing with the methodology used in the cola experience, could one apply the same research methods to watchmaking? This would not be about tasting an undetermined liquid, but rather for example being given a chance to discover the most recent model of a brand in an exclusive sneak preview.
    We might thus manufacture a watch representing a hybrid of several different models, including for example an Omega case, with a Rolex bezel, an Ice-Watch dial, Von Grafenried & Cousins pushers and Rochat & Meylan hands...The movement, also a perfect hybrid, could be presented as a Patek Philippe or alternatively a movement made in Shenzen and the strap leather as being made by Hermes or imported from Albania.
    The consumers undergoing the MRI would be told that they were going to be given an exclusive presentation of a brand new Rolex, Omega, Rochat-Meylan, Boomtime or Von Grafenried & Cousins model, a claim borne out by the logos on the watch.
    What do you think the result would be? How, for example, would the ventral striatum react to the announcement of a totally new Von Grafenried & Cousins model? Probably a scientifically measurable flat encephalogram, whereas on the contrary, one might well imagine that the very mention of the upcoming discovery of a brand-new Rolex model would trigger a whole host of neurones - especially among bloggers, whose ventral striatum would quite likely start performing a belly dance!
    Poor us!
    We thought that only our sacrosanct "free will" determined our choices and our intimate desires, but this does not appear to be the case. Something like Pavlov's dog which started salivating and slobbering simply when it heard the bell ringing signalling its food - and even if the food never appeared again - we unconsciously vibrate and get excited at the mere thought of promised pleasures that for most of us will always be unattainable.
     

  • Christie's - Record-Breaking Watch Auction in Geneve


    Christie's Geneva auction sale of Important Watches including A Gentleman's Pursuit for Excellence, Part I fetched a total result of SFr.27,042,825/$28,557,223/€22,445,545, selling 96% by lot and 97% by value.
    The exceptionally rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499/100, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1987 and offered from the collection of Eric Clapton, sold for SFr. 3,443,000 / $3,635,808 / €2,857,690, setting a world record price for this reference at auction.


    The top price of the sale was paid for the „J.B. Champion Platinum Observatory Chronometer, a unique platinum chronometer wristwatch, ref. 2458, which was specially manufactured by Patek Philippe for J.B. Champion, the legendary American watch collector, in 1952. This historically important timepiece realized SFr.3,779,000 / $3,990,624 / €3,136,570, setting a world auction record for a watch without complications.


    World record prices were also set for numerous references and models in the following categories: Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, antique and 20th century enamels, decorative watches and contemporary watches.
    Aurel Bacs, International Head of Christie's Watch Department, commented: "Christie's auction of Important Watches in Geneva performed extremely well, demonstrating great consistency at all levels in terms of watches, prices and clients. In a broad, healthy and ever growing market, where buyers demand expertise and scholarship, we offered once again the finest selection of watches and wristwatches. A packed saleroom, today's seven-hour marathon auction welcomed some 500 registrants from five continents, generating stellar sell-through rates as well as breaking numerous records. Collectors, public and private museums, the trade and also an investment watch fund, battled out the bidding for the best watches seen at auction this season, reconfirming Christie's market leadership in every horological category. This is our recipe: sourcing top quality properties, pricing them accurately, presenting them to the right audience, in the right place, at the right time".


    TOP LOT: J.B. CHAMPION PLATINUM OBSERVATORY CHRONOMETER
    The most valuable lot of the sale, an historically important and unique platinum chromometer wristwatch with Guillaume balance, Bulletin d'Observatoire, additional diamond-set dial and platinum bracelet, ref. 2458, made especially for J.B Champion by Patek Philippe in 1952, sold for SFr.3,779,000 / $3,990,624 / €3,136,570 (lot 88).
    ERIC CLAPTON'S PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 2499/100 IN PLATINUM
    Offered from the Collection of Eric Clapton, an exceptionally rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499/100, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1987, sold for SFr. 3,443,000 / $3,635,808 / €2,857,690 (lot 151). Only once previously sold at auction in 1989, it then changed hands for $250,999.
    A COLLECTION OF ANTIQUE POCKET WATCHES MADE FOR CHINESE MARKET
    100% sold by lot and by value, the sensational collection of antique watches, comprising the different styles made for the export to China, fetched a total result of SFr.2,303,500 / US$2,432,496 / €1,911,905, exceeding its pre-sale estimate by five times. The top lot of the collection was an exceptional gold and enamel openface centre seconds duplex watch with enamel by Jean-François-Victor Dupont, made for the Chinese market by William Ilbery, London, circa 1815 (lot 194), which sold for SFr.651,000 / US$687,456 / €540,330.
    The majority of the pieces offered for sale were acquired by the present owner and her late husband during their repeated journeys to the Orient between the late 1950s and the 1970s.
    A GENTLEMAN'S PURSUIT FOR EXCELLENCE, PART I
    Part I of A Gentleman's Pursuit For Excellence, a superb private collection of complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches and pocket watches, totalled SFr.1,332,000 / US$1,406,592 / €1,105,560. The top lot of the collection was a white gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 3448, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1974 (lot 316), which sold for SFr.387,000 / US$408,672 / €321,210.
    Part II will be offered at Christie's Geneva on 13 May 2013.

  • Antiquorum - Important Modern & Vintage Timpieces

    Antiquorum's fall auction of "Important Modern & Vintage Timpieces" held at the Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong on Friday, October 19th achieved outstanding results totaling HKD23,834,875. A total of 75.8% of the auction was sold by lot, with 124% sold by value.
     
    The highlights of the sale included the Harry Winston "OPUS V" 18K pink gold wristwatch, the Louis Vuitton "Tambour Diving II" 18K black gold diver's wristwatch with square button chronograph specially made for Only Watch Auction 2011, and a series of fine Patek Philippe timepieces.


    One of the most exciting highlight's of the sale was definitely the Harry Winston "OPUS V" 18K pink gold wristwatch (Lot 323). This very fine and rare wristwatch aroused a lot of interest among collectors and was sold for an impressive HKD1,160,000 (including buyer's premium) after heated competition between room, phone and Internet bidders.
     


    Another highlight was the Louis Vuitton "Tambour Diving II" 18K black gold diver's wristwatch with square button chronograph (Lot 118), specially made for Only Watch. The unique and highly collectible wristwatch drew consideration attention among collectors and attained a noteworthy price of HKD400, 000 (including buyer's premium).
     
    The outstanding performance of Patek Philippe once again highlights the brand's popularity among collectors worldwide. The Patek Philippe Ref. 5101P 10 Days Tourbillon Platinum (Lot 322) sold for HKD1, 556,000 (including buyer's premium), the highest price attained in the sale.

    Patek Philippe Ref. 5131G-001 World Time wristwatch (Lot 206), a very fine wristwatch combining precise watchmaking expertise and traditional enamel craftsmanship achieved HKD1,040,000, while Patek Philippe Ref. 5050G Roman Dial 18K white gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar (Lot 321), brought HKD608,000. Also noteworthy was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5350R 18K pink gold wristwatch (315), which attained HKD475, 000 after fierce bidding.
     
    Patek Philippe Ref. 1146 "Piece Unique - Pendulette Dome -Fêtes des Vendanges" Dome clock (Lot 127), which had drawn considerable attention prior to the sale, attracted many collectors vying for it and was sold to an Asian collector for a remarkable HKD980,000. (including buyer's premium)


     
    The auction attracted collectors from across the globe with bidders from China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Russia, Singapore, Switzerland and the United States.
     
    "Today's fierce competition among global bidders for the Patek Philippe Ref. 1146, Harry Winston "OPUS V" and other amazing lots for auction confirms the ever-increasing market demand for collectable timepieces," said Jill Chen, General Manager, Antiquorum Hong Kong.
     
    Antiquorum looks forward to our next auction on November 11th in Geneva, featuring a magnificent royal presentation musical fan with concealed watch and an impressive collection of Patek Philippe and Rolex timpieces.

  • Rolex - Rolex Daytona Story


    It will not be just the world's biggest book on Rolex watches (together with "Rolex Submariner Story" and "Collecting Rolex Milgauss, Turn-O-Graph, Yacht-Master, Explorer") but also the most important edition ever done on Rolex: Rolex Daytona Story.
    A limited edition, in a large format, with unpublished material, very specific content, top quality images and updated estimates of all watches covered.
    All the usual features of Mondani's editions have been combined this time with the watch, which not only represents the dream of all enthusiasts, but is also an extremely important collector's item, the value of which will increase astronomically over the years.
    The authors are Osvaldo Patrizzi and Guido Mondani, two of the greatest Rolex experts worldwide.
     


    Throughout these pages, they illustrate all those small details which determine the enormous variations in watch value on the market today.
    All references are presented with the dates of the beginning and end of production as well as specifying all their main features: push-buttons, crown, bezel, dial, crystal, bracelets, graphic details of logos, writing and hallmarks.
    You will also discover many things about Patrizzi Dials, Floating Dials, inverted 6 and much more...
    From the Daytona manual winding models to the Oyster Perpetual series 16500 with Zenith caliber and Oyster Perpetual series 116500 with self-winding movement and Rolex caliber. Osvaldo Patrizzi and Guido Mondani, after years of research and study, will answer the main questions of modern collectors, like for example:
    Why the name Cosmograph?
    Do personalized case backs exist?
    What are the indexes of the Cosmograph dials like?
    Why do Rolex dials oxidize and change color?
    What are the differences between that dials of the series 16500
    and the ones of the series 116500?
    Updated estimates of all published Rolex watches are enclosed.

    BUY THE BOOK

  • Collecting - Vintage Value Equation (4)


    WORLDTEMPUS - 20 August 2012
    When I am evaluating the condition of a watch, I always examine the case's lugs for thickness and uniformity. With experience after studying lots of watches, you will learn what a case looks like before it is refinished. For example: on complicated Patek Philippe models, especially perpetual calendar chronographs starting with the second-series 2499 models, the lugs have steps. Study these watches closely to learn what the steps look like when they are new. Stay away from cases with soft lugs or request a deep discount for a soft case. The metal can never again be made whole once it is polished away.
    In the previous three parts of this series, we have learned that the dial is the most important and valuable part of a vintage watch. Accordingly, the condition of the dial is paramount. Ideally, there will be no imperfections like flaking paint, no rust, or missing applied pieces. Many vintage watch dials have lacquer on them; after many years lacquer can craze or crack. This is actually a desirable effect on some watches like the glossy dial of the Rolex 5513 Submariner. Spotting on a dial that is a few decades or more in age is normal, and as long as it doesn't detract from your enjoyment of the watch, it is normally acceptable. The hands, usually included with the dial in grading condition, are frequently in different condition than the dial. Oxidation or pitting can often be found on hands. If there is luminous substance on the hands, it can be cracked or have completely fallen out. In this regard, original hands, regardless of their condition, are more valuable than replacement hands, even if the latter are like new.


    In terms of dial condition, there are some specific discolorations that enhance the value of the watch. Most common is patina, which is the word used for something whose color changes over time. The luminous hour markers on Rolex dials are the most useful example. Study the dials of, say, Reference 5513 Submariners. You will find hour markers from snow white (no patina) to deep butterscotch color. The important thing, in terms of value, is that the patina is uniform across all luminous elements. Another permutation in hue is the so called Color Change (or "Patrizzi") dials on the Rolex 16520 Daytona models. This only occurs on the black dials and, specifically, on the chapter rings around the subdials. Originally, the chapter rings were white or pale silver. Some, over time, develop a brown coloration. For many collectors, this is a pleasing effect and makes the watch more valuable. Incidentally, dials with a propensity for having chapter rings turn brown usually also have an inverted 6 on the chronograph hour totalizer subdial. One last example of a desirable color change is the Rolex Explorer II reference number 16550, whose white dials have turned to a deep cream color.


    Bracelets hopefully stand the test of time without stretching or losing links, however this is not as important as replacement bracelets are usually fairly easy to find, though likely expensive. Nothing is more personally disgusting than a used strap, much less a really old used strap. A new strap is preferred, as no one likes to wear a strap that someone else has sweated on. An exception to this is certain vintage pilot's watches with special straps or even ankle straps, which are basically almost as historic as the watch itself.
    The last variable in determining the value of a vintage watch is provenance: the old "box and papers" thing. Without exception or qualification, it is always better to get as many of the elements that were originally delivered with the watch as possible. For many high-end vintage watches, the presence of the original box, documents and other paraphernalia can enhance the value of the watch by as much as 25 to 35 percent.
    Interestingly, what was given out with the watch was often different depending on where in the world the watch was purchased. Let's face it, we all like to get as much as possible for our money, and the goodies and extras are important and quite valuable. The original guarantee or chronometer certificate for a watch also proves authenticity. There is an active market for vintage watch boxes, product booklets, hang tags and the like. Buyer beware, however: these items can also be faked. You can never be too careful in learning about the paraphernalia, what to look for to know if you are looking at genuine artifacts or fakes.
    A final thought when it comes to finding a watch with its original elements: the original owner and perhaps subsequent owners who cared enough to keep the watch and its things together was probably an owner who took good care of the watch itself. Easily 90 percent of vintage watches have no box and papers, so finding a complete package is rare, exciting and valuable. Good luck!

    Related stories:

    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (1)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (2)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (3)

  • Kobold - Lofty Business

    When a Westerner hears the word "Sherpa," he or she immediately associates it with mountain climbing. There is a good reason for this: the Sherpa caste, at home at the foot of Mt. Everest, part of the Himalayan mountain range, makes its living by guiding tourists coming to Nepal to conquer the mountain. This is a dangerous, ungrateful job - but in many cases it is the best way for a member of the Sherpa ethnic group to support its family.

    Watchmaker Sherpas

    Namgel Sherpa and Thundu Sherpa probably often gratefully pray to their gods since the day that Sir Ranulph Fiennes and Michael Kobold showed up in Kathmandu in 2008, the latter having spontaneously decided to accompany his friend and the Kobold Watch Company ambassador who has been described as "the world's greatest living adventurer" on an Everest bid. Kobold was unprepared to climb, and he had not even reckoned with reaching what's known as base camp (the last acclimation settlement before serious climbers head up the earth's highest mountain, which peaks at 8,848 meters (29,029 feet) above sea level). He made it up much higher before both he and Fiennes had to turn back; it was then he discovered he was officially bit by the same bug that has plagued adventurers the world over.
    Kobold and Fiennes returned in 2009 and made it to the summit, with Kobold repeating the feat in 2010 together with his wife Anita Ugyan, who climbed without oxygen. During the three adventurous climbs, the lives of Kobold and other members of his crew - particularly his wife - were seriously endangered. Only by the grace of the Sherpas did they survive, and in his gratitude Kobold decided to make a suggestion uttered by Fiennes in 2008 into reality and invest in an unprecedented venture: training the two Sherpas as watchmakers and having them run a new subsidiary in Kathmandu called Kobold Watch Company Nepal (Pvt.) Ltd as co-owners.


    "These two caught on really quickly," Kobold's head watchmaker, Dale Poindexter, said of the Sherpas' ability to learn the complicated techniques involved in mechanical watchmaking during the official opening of Kobold Nepal on March 26. Poindexter trained them for ten months in Kobold's Pittsburgh facility.
    Made in Nepal
    As manufacturing and crafts only employ 6 percent of Nepal's 27 million-b population, it is safe to say that skilled labor is not one of this country's assets. In fact, Kobold is certain that his venture is a highly motivational one for the people of Nepal, a way for them to imagine a different future. "Newspapers have already written that Nepal, unable to produce even a sewing needle, now has 'watch movements' with hundreds of parts. This is sure to greatly increase the confidence of the Nepalese in themselves."

    The "standard" Kobold watch model bearing the predicate "made in Nepal," assembled in the Sherpas' new workshop, which is equipped with exceedingly solid, locally custom-made benches crafted from local wood, is called the Himalaya. It is housed in a 44 mm stainless steel case that was made in the U.S.A. The three-handed dial comes in brown or black and exudes the typical Kobold legibility that is the signature element of this adventurous brand. The automatic movement is a Kobold specialty: Caliber K.2651 is based on a vintage Förster movement from Pforzheim. Kobold is the only company currently using this refurbished and improved movement in serial watches. Water-resistant to 100 meters, the timepiece is protected by a sapphire crystal that is also sourced in the U.S.A. Its rugged, understated elegance completed by an alligator skin strap also crafted in the U.S.A. will allow this watch to be worn in any circumstances: on the mountain or in the city.
    To celebrate the opening, Kobold also offered a limited edition of 25 very special watches - which were unfortunately already sold out before the evening of the opening had even come to its exciting conclusion. The Himalaya Everest Edition features a very special dial crafted from a Mt. Everest summit limestone that Kobold plucked from the lofty ground and brought back down the mountain in 2009. A German specialist company located in Idar-Oberstein spent two years ensuring the structural integrity of the beautiful dials crafted from this rock that now forms the mysterious 5 mm-thick face of the Himalaya Everest Edition. Needless to say, each of the 25 pieces is unique in its own way thanks to the natural material.


    Last but hardly least
    Many colorful and important personages attended the evening festivity, including a handful of ambassadors to Nepal, two top generals of the Nepalese army -who ended up "guarding" the Kobold collection inspected by party guests in the new workshop - several members of the deposed royal family of Nepal, the commander-in-chief of its army and other influential fans of Kobold watches from various countries. They had all attended not only to support the new business but also to hear Kobold's famed ambassador tell stories of his exploits. Fiennes has been entered into the "Guinness Book of World Records" as "the greatest living explorer." This man, previously an esteemed Rolex ambassador for 20 years, is the author of many world firsts as well as gripping books. When he and Kobold summited Mt. Everest in 2009, Fiennes was 65 years old. He is a top celebrity in the U.K. and according to JustGiving.com, the U.K.'s top celebrity fundraiser.
    Asked why he gave up the Rolex sponsorship in favor of becoming Kobold's top ambassador, Fiennes replied in his typically direct way, "Gratitude and loyalty." This seems to be a running theme in the world of Kobold, and flows in both directions.


    Namgel and Thundu did not seem particularly fazed by any of this hoopla - least of all the celebrity explorer they have guided up their home mountain twice - and exuded a calm, interested outward demeanor throughout the entire event. In the space of the four years that they have known Kobold, the world of the two Sherpas who have climbed Mt. Everest a combined total of sixteen times has become an entirely different one. Though hard to get involved answers from them, when asked if they felt pride at all these accomplishments, the answer was clear: a big smile and an enthusiastic "yes!" accompanied by vigorous nodding. I'm not certain they understand the historic proportions of their actions over the last few years, but they have time to discover it - time mechanically measured by an adventurous Kobold watch that they keep running.

  • Rolex - Handy Complication

    Worldtempus - 11 March 2012

    Undoubtedly, the Sky-Dweller is Rolex's showstopper for this year. It is not only a totally unexpected new model - since everyone was expecting a new Daytona, as that model was introduced 50 years ago - but also sports a brand new complication, the first in 60 years: an annual calendar.
    When Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master II in 2007, this model with its regatta-dedicated countdown was as far as the famed Swiss watch company had gone in terms of mechanical complications. With the Sky-Dweller launch, however, Rolex shows that it can do so much more than the well-known - and highly respected - Yacht-Master, GMT and Daytona in terms of complications. With the Sky-Dweller, Rolex clearly shows that the company can be a horological powerhouse. When it wants to.

    Surprised?
    Why do we even act surprised? We already saw complicated Rolex models with calendar functions and moon phase indicator back in the 1940s and '50s. But that was then, and this is now. And even now, the Sky-Dweller is a strikingly different approach to the rather conservative modern horology that Rolex has made its signature element - particularly in comparison to pretty much all of its ticking colleagues.
    Unique model
    Sky-Dweller, sporting 380 movement parts and no less than 14 patents in the all-new Caliber 9001 movement, of which five are completely new, is a perfect timepiece for the frequent traveler. It offers both a home and a second time zone via the off-centered disc display as well as a rather unique annual calendar. Unique for Rolex, that is.
    The annual calendar makes the automatic change to the first of the next month at the end of months with 30 and 31 days, which means that you only have to change the date manually on February 28 (or 29 during leap years). But how does the movement know what month it is? Simple: since a year has twelve months, Rolex cleverly decided to indicate the current month on the circumference of the dial using a perforated window. For instance, this month (March) has a blackened window at the 3 o'clock position. So simple, and just the way Rolex likes it. Simplicity certainly seems to be the credo of the brand, no matter what the complication is.

    Ring command
    The functions of the Rolex Sky-Dweller are set by the so-called rotating Ring Command bezel. By turning it, you can set second time zone, date or time when the crown is unscrewed.
    The design of the inner 24-hour dial ring has been actively discussed around the globe since the beginning of the fair. Not surprisingly, a lot of negative emotion has been expressed. This is undoubtedly due to the rather unconventional design - something that Rolex lovers are not at all used to. But in terms of being a tool watch, Rolex again proves to be a true champion.
    This new 42 mm model, offered in white and yellow gold on a bracelet as well as Everose (rose) gold on a strap, clearly illustrates the (for many surprising) ability of probably the best watch company in the world. Rolex is finally blowing its Swiss alphorn, indicating that we should never take Rolex for granted.
    The Rolex Sky-Dweller is offered at an entry price of approximately 31,200 euros (Everose on strap).

  • Rolex - Date Just II


    The DATEJUST II continues the tradition of the DATEJUST, the emblematic model created by Rolex in 1945, the first self-winding waterproof wristwatch chronometer to display the date in a window on the dial. A reinterpretation of that symbol of the modern watch, the DATEJUST II inspires admiration with its impressive case and technical attributes.
    The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
    The DATEJUST II's 41 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosion-resistant 904L steel. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TWINLOCK double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a CYCLOPS lens at 3 o'clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case allies refinement with efficiency in protecting the DATEJUST II's high-precision movement.

    Calibre 3136, a superlative chronometer
    The DATEJUST II is equipped with calibre 3136, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3136 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The oscillator is fitted between high-performance PARAFLEX shock absorbers, patented by Rolex, which offer 50 per cent greater resistance to shocks.

    Comfort and elegance of the OYSTER bracelet
    This DATEJUST II model is fitted with a 904L steel OYSTER bracelet with a folding OYSTERCLASP. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet offers remarkable comfort and ease of use. It also features the ingenious EASYLINK rapid extension system that allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance.


  • Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona


    A bezel in all the colours of the rainbow
    Along with its 18 ct yellow gold case and bracelet, this COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA dons a bezel entirely set with an array of sapphires in rainbow colours. All the nuances of the celestial arc are visible, a delicate palette of reds, oranges, yellows, greens, blues, mauves and pinks. The subtle grace of these fascinating stones meticulously selected, assembled and set by Rolex is magical, endowing the watch with a stunning radiance.
    Also gem-set, the case lugs, crown guard as well as the hour markers on the dial participate in the exquisite allure of this variation on the DAYTONA theme.

    Exclusive GOLD CRYSTALS counters
    Contrasting with the black lacquer of the dial, the reflections of the GOLD CRYSTALS counters blend with the radiance of the precious stones. Crafted from an 18 ct gold alloy perfected by Rolex in its own foundry, these exclusive counters highlight the crystal structure of the gold in a seductive play of reflections and colours. Each counter is a natural work of art, different from every other.
    The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
    The COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA's 40 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of proportion and elegance. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct gold. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TRIPLOCK triple waterproofness system, as well as the chronograph pushers screw down securely against the case. It is protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case ensures optimal protection for the COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA's high-precision movement.

    Calibre 4130, a superlative chronograph chronometer
    The COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA is equipped with calibre 4130, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 4130 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring, patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.
    The OYSTERLOCK clasp, functional and secure
    This COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA is fitted with an OYSTER bracelet in 18 ct yellow gold with the latestgeneration OYSTERLOCK safety clasp to prevent accidental opening. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet also features the ingenious EASYLINK rapid extension system that allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance.

  • Cuervo y Sobrinos - Legacy of "bygone time"

    In less than fifty years the combination of high quality creations (made in Switzerland) and the Latin spirit of the brand won over the Americas. Various fine watch brands (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Longines) associated their names with Cuervo y Sobrinos (a more prestigious name at that time) to co-produce watches based on Havana time - a legacy of "bygone time". The boutique quickly became so successful that in the 1890s Cuervo y Sobrinos decided to expand its production network, opening branches in three crucial European cities.
    While most European luxury product creators expanded their international business to other continents, Cuervo y Sobrinos was one of the first overseas brands to take the opposite path, successfully working on the Continent: in Pforzheim, Germany, where La Casa selected its precious stones; in Rue Mezlay in Paris, where its finest jewels were made, and later, in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, where its timepieces were created.
    For its select clientele, a visit to La Casa in the heart of Havana was a must on every trip, just like visits to the great jewelers on Place Vendôme in Paris or Fifth Avenue in New York. In the 1940s, the heyday of the brand, prized Cuervo y Sobrinos products weren't simply premium watches but reflected a lifestyle and a way of thinking. After having its name among top watch brands for more than fifty years, the company's business slumped after the political uprisings in the country. The Cuervo family left Cuba for Europe and for nearly forty years the brand lay dormant.
     

  • Dubois & Depraz - At the Service of Brands


    Revue FH - 27 October 2011

    Nestled in the heart of the Joux Valley, the firm Dubois Depraz designs, develops and constructs additional movements for watch complications for some of the greatest names in watchmaking, including Patek Philippe, Breitling, Rolex, Omega, Richard Mille, etc. Be it chronographs with multiple indications (with or without perpetual calendar), special mechanisms indicating days, months, leap years, moon phases, sunset and sunrise, the equation of time, tides, timezones, jumping-dials, governors, mechanisms for regattas, watches for polo, as well as minute, quarter and five-minute repeaters, extra-flat mechanisms, etc, the world of complications no longer holds any secrets for Dubois Depraz. Around fifty brands currently employ the services of the firm, which is ready to rise to any challenge thrown down to it.


    110 years of history have led Dubois Depraz on the path to their present success. On 1st January 1901, Marcel Depraz set up his first watchmaking workshop in Le Lieu, at number 12, Grand-Rue, over the family baker's shop. Ten years later, with a view to increasing his firm's capacity, he teamed up with his brotherin- law Marius Guignard. Together, they set up a second company: Depraz & Guignard. Marcel's children, Gabrielle and Roger, also joined the family business. In 1937, Marcel Depraz decided to strengthen his two companies and employed his son-in-law Reynold Dubois. Results were not long in coming, with the rapid launch of the 13 3/4 chronograph calibre. This master stroke saw the production of more than 4.5 million movements up to the 1970s. In 1947, the two firms merged under the name Depraz & Cie. In 1956, Gerald Dubois, a young watchmaking engineer and father of the two present-day directors, set up a research and development design office.
    Eleven years later the world's first modular chronograph was born, the 11-12 Chronomatic calibre. This invention was awarded the diploma and silver medal at the Brussels Inventors Show in 1969. Meanwhile, Depraz & Cie changed its company name to Dubois Depraz SA.


    In the 1970s, despite the economic difficulties, the firm presented another world first, a mechanical chronograph with an analogue display featuring an electronic tuning-fork movement. In parallel, it diversified and embarked on the production of mechanical and quartz chronographs fitted as standard on aircraft and cars. Despite these launches, the crisis proved too b for the partnership between the two directors and in 1979 Gerald Dubois purchased the buildings and continued the adventure alone. In 1983, after several years of research, Dubois Depraz launched the calibre 2000 chronograph which could be adapted to all mechanical or quartz movements. This innovative concept caused a sensation in the watchmaking world and even today remains one of the firm's flagship products (around two million have been manufactured to date).
    In 1987, Jean-Philippe Dubois, the current CEO, joined the company. He was followed five years later by his brother Pascal, who was appointed as director. Finally, in 2006, they acquired one of their suppliers, DPRM (Decolletage pignons et roues manufacture), located in Arch (canton of Bern).


    In the course of these eleven decades, Dubois Depraz accumulated a huge wealth of expertise that was passed on from generation to generation. Even today the firm holds the secret of certain manufacturing phases no longer used by anyone else in the watchmaking world. An example is «tribofinishing», the process which consists in deburring and polishing pieces in a single operation. This involves turning pieces from one to seven days in sealed cylinders of different sizes, according to the desired end result. The media inside the rollers consist of different materials (copper, ceramic or plastic), special soap and polishing powder. Although the processes of deburring and polishing are widespread in the watch industry, Dubois Depraz's secret lies in the dosing of components and the length of the operation.


    Manufacturing secrets alone would be worth nothing without skill, hard work, and the precision and quality of products delivered by Dubois Depraz. Today, 220 people in the Joux Valley and 50 in Arch work industriously under the roof of this independent family business.

  • Christie's - Live And Let Die


    The present Rolex ref. 5513, modified by the famous Q Branch, is certainly the most memorable Submariner to appear in movies and must be considered a veritable trophy not only for the watch aficionado but also for the amateurs of cinematography and of James Bond in general.

    Especially designed for James Bond to be worn during 007''s mission in Live and Let Die, it was created in 1972 by the world-famous film production designer Syd Cain.
    Featuring not only a bezel spinning at high speed to cut ropes and chains, in the movie it also bore an ultra-b magnet which was supposed to neutralize bullets but was, instead, used by 007 to unzip Ms. Solitaire's dress.
    The lot will be sold together with an original construction drawing and two signed images from the set (estimate: SFr. 200,000 - 400,000).

  • Antiquorum - Patek Philippe & Rolex Timepieces



    Amongst the exceptional highlights being offered are a recently discovered Patek Philippe full 24-hour repeating, quarter and special type five-minute repeating 24- hours in one revolution pocket watch and a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in yellow gold. In addition, the auction will offer over 603 exceptional modern and vintage timepieces. Previews will be held in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Geneva.


    The highlight of the sale is the recently discovered Patek Philippe full 24-hour repeating, quarter and special-type five-minute repeating 24-hours in one revolution pocket watch. This exceptional watch was originally sold to Monsieur E. Hoesch, Villa Barbaia, Mergellina, Naples, on November 27, 1894 for 3750 Swiss Francs. It is a highly important 18K pink gold, keyless pocket watch with perpetual calendar, chronograph, moon phases, and lunar calendar accompanied by the original certificate of origin and Patek Philippe sales receipt.


    Another outstanding timepiece included in the sale is the Patek Philippe, ref. 1518, 1st Series. Made in 1948, it is an extremely rare, 18K yellow gold gentleman's wristwatch with perpetual calendar, moon phases, square button chronograph, register and tachometer accompanied by the extract from the archives.


    Also offered is a Patek Philippe ref. 5959. Sold on October 3, 2007, it is a very rare, platinum and diamond wristwatch with coaxial round button split-seconds chronograph and register. The watch is accompanied by a Patek Philippe fitted box, certificate of origin and instructions.


    Another patek Philippe that is sure to attract collectors around the globe is the Patek Philippe "World Time," ref 5131G. Sold on April 13, 2010, it is a self-winding, water-resistant, 18K white gold wristwatch with world-time system and cloisonne enamel dial offered with a fitted box, certificate of origin, booklets and hang tag.


     In addition, the auction will include a Patek Philippe ref. 844, movement made in 1947, completed and cased in 1973 and sold on December 1st, 1980. This exceptional piece is an elegant, 18K yellow gold, keyless, minute repeating dress watch with digital "American" perpetual calendar and moon phases accompanied by the extract from the archives.


    Another exquisite piece offered in the sale is the Rolex ref. 6284 "Two Americas" with cloisonne dial by Marguerite Koch, made in only six examples circa 1950. From the property of the original owner, it is an exceptionally rare self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel map of the two Americas.


    Antiquorum experts are also pleased to offer an A. Lange & Söhne minute repeater with Lange double-chronograph system, produced in 1884 and sold on September 30, 1884 for 1,750 Marks. One of three examples made, this is a large and heavy, 18K red gold, minute-repeating, keyless, hunting-cased pocket watch with 1st Quality movement with precision balance, Lange double-chronograph system with single push-piece for all four functions via one column wheel and split-seconds calipers on the dial side. This outstanding watch is accompanied by the extract from the archives.

     


    Another noteworthy Rolex included in the sale is the Rolex , "Oyster Perpetual, COMEX, 660ft=200m, Submariner", Ref. 5514/5513 formerly belonging to Patrick Raude. Produced in 1972, it is a water-resistant, center seconds, self-winding, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with first generation helium escape valve. The watch is accompanied by a Rolex Geneva service invoice (now void, dated 2005), a photocopy of Mr Raude's passport, the original sale invoice from Mr Raude to the previous owner in 2002 and an original Rolex advertisement from circa 1985.


    Antiquorum experts are also delighted to offer a Patek Philippe, ref. 1339 "Piece Unique - Pendulette Dome", "Musique de Chambre Quator". This magnificent timepiece is a unique, solar-powered and electro-mechanical, brass table clock with polychrome cloisonne enamel panels depicting an orchestral quartet. It is accompanied by the Patek Philippe box, certificate of origin, hang tag and Patek Philippe (Japan) service guarantee card.


    For the miniature collector, Antiquorum experts are pleased to offer a Patek Philippe Ref. 866/8 retailed by Gubelin with unique enamel miniature "Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart" by Suzanne Rohr after Christian Leberecht Vogel (1759-1816), signed and dated 1971.  It is accompanied by the original Patek Philippe fitted box and Certificate of Origin.


    Patek collectors will also want to bid on the Patek Philippe "Calatrava observatory type", Produced in 1903, cased in 1936 and sold on February 5, 1936. It is a possibly unique and extremely fine stainless steel Staybrite gentleman's wristwatch with sector dial and subsidiary dial at 9. Recently overhauled by Patek Philippe Geneva, it is accompanied by an extract from the archives and the original Patek Philippe fitted box.

    __________________________________________________


     
    Preview & Auction Schedule
    Auction: Sunday, November 13
    Session 1: (lots 1-176) at 10:00 am
    Session 2: (lots 177 - 603) at 1:30 pm
    Mandarin Oriental Hotel du Rhone
    Salon Saint-Gervais
    Quai Turrettini1
    1201 Geneva
     
    Hong Kong Preview
    Friday, November 4: 11 am - 7 pm
    Antiquorum Auctioneers (HK) Ltd.
    Room 704, No. 9 Queen's Road Central
    Hong Kong, China
    Tel + 852 2522 4168
     
    Shanghai Preview
    Sunday, November 6: 10 am - 6pm
    Antiquorum Shanghai
    Room 4106B
    Bund Centre Office Tower
    222 Yan An Road East
    Shanghai 200002,China
    Tel. + 86 21 6335 1268
     
    Geneva Preview
    Thursday, November 10 to Saturday, November 12: 10 am - 7pm
    Sunday, November 13: 10 am - 6pm
    Antiquorum Showroom
    3, rue du Mont-Blanc
    1211 Geneva, Switzerland
    Tel. + 41 (0) 22 909 28 50

  • Success - Instinct vs strategy

    GMT Italia - Summer 2011

    Amongst the teams competing in the great watchmaking championships, two "dream teams" draw particular attention to themselves. One of them, led by Jean-Claude Biver, is stabled with the LMVH group. The other, under the watchful eye of Georges Kern, is to be found at the heart of the Richemont group.
    Both run a brand, while

    inspiring others, either directly or indirectly. Both are surrounded by a new generation of promising managers, such as Jean-Frederic Dufour at LMVH, or Alain Zimmermann at Richemont. Both implement their marketing strategies with unfailing efficiency. In both cases, obviously, we are talking about watchmaking, but also (above all?) about business.

    At LMVH, annual sales in the watchmaking and jewellery sector added up to close on a billion euro on December 31 last year, showing an almost insolent 29% increase. At Richemont, it took only six months to pass the 900 million euro mark with the watchmaking division alone. Here also, growth was nothing short of incredible: +38% for the semester April to September 2010! Both these captains of industry face huge pressure, stiff competition - including internally - and similar challenges: conquering new markets, managing the supply chain and distribution network, ensuring growth and coherence with the brand values. Even though the demands - and successes - are similar, their style is completely different. There is Jean-Claude Biver's spontaneous, creative marketing. This man shows off his brand, Hublot, in the most unexpected places, maximising opportunities at major events. He is able to evaluate an event and make a decision in just a few minutes, moving onto turf already occupied by his competitors. We saw him flirt with Alinghi before taking over its sponsorship from Audemars Piguet. We saw him on the illuminated referee boards at the last World Cup, as well as lighting up the Vendôme column standing at the heart of the most prestigious location in Paris - and incidentally right in the middle of the logo of Van Cleef & Arpels, a watchmaking colleague and competitor. His brand is to be found on skis, bicycles and even... cheese wheels!

    Georges Kern on the other hand, practises business school marketing with unfailing rigour. In his realm, creativity is not paramount, but is channelled and used as part of a long-term strategy. Be it IWC, Baume & Mercier or Roger Dubois, the markets are fragmented, with products distributed on a value pyramid and innovations selected depending on gaps that need to be filled, building the worlds of reference frameworks that accompany each brand down to the last detail. Baume & Mercier is spending this year under the Capeland banner, with its American East Coast flavour, while IWC took up residence in Portofino. Roger Dubois is ticking to casino time and even its USB sticks are shaped like gambling chips. Exuberance vs rigour, instinct vs strategy, the completely opposing style of these two men is apparent on all levels. Take their annual reports on the figures and performance of their brands.

    The Richemont Group to which IWC belongs tends not to say too much and prefers to opt for secrecy, much in the same manner as private banks, as if opacity were a measure of power and success. In this respect, the operational style of the group chaired by Johann Rupert is very similar to that of Rolex. Jean-Claude Biver, on the other hand, sends waves of text messages to announce the results of his most recent exhibition, or the signing of a new partnership. At the end of the day, the information that he is supposedly sharing is necessarily only partial, but it is shared with such enthusiasm that it leaves a pleasantly transparent aftertaste.

    The numbers are either stifled or proclaimed to the world at large, and the managers themselves also opt for high or low profiles. Jean-Claude Biver pops up all over the place in the columns of the financial press or social magazines.Georges Kern is more discreet, and while he is quite happy to appear next to football, cinema or literary celebrities, as soon as the public is involved, he promotes the brand itself. Asthey say at Richemont, "The brand is the star". So basically we are looking at two very different recipes for creating the same dish - success.

  • Livre - Collecting Rolex Milgauss, Explorer I, Explorer II,...

    Limited edition of only 2,000 copies. Attached are the updated estimates of all Rolex Milgauss, Explorer I, Explorer II, Turn-O-Graph and Yacht-Master watches. Together with "Rolex Submariner Story", it is the world's biggest book on Rolex watches.

    BUY

    "Collecting Rolex Milgauss, Explorer I, Explorer II, Turn-O-Graph and Yacht-Master" represents a new adventure, a journey through these models which nobody has yet "Explored" in such depth.


    This book is divided in 5 chapters, each of them dedicated to one of the following models:
     
    - Rolex Turn-O-Graph: Reminder of times past
    References 1625, 6202, 6206, 6309, 6609, 16250, 16253, 16258, 16263, 16264, 116261, 116263, 116264
     
    - Rolex Milgauss: the Scientist's watch
    Referenze 1019, 6541, 6543, 116400, 116400GV
     
    - Rolex Yacht-Master: the Skipper's watch
    Referenze 16622, 16623, 16628, 116681, 116688, 116689, 168622, 168623, 168628, 169622, 169623, 169628
     
    - Rolex Explorer I: the reinforced Rolex
    Referenze 1016, 5500, 5501, 5504, 5506, 5700, 5701, 6098, 6150, 6298, 6350, 6552, 6610, 14270, 114270, 214270
     
    - Rolex Explorer II: the Speleologist's watch
    Referenze 1655, 16550, 16570, 216570
    A total of 50 references recount the whole production of these models that, today, represent a secure investment for collectors all over the world, as well as a prestigious and beautiful object to wear.
     
    All references are described in the most minute detail, even examining those small features which determine big price differences on the market today, such as: the graphics and evolution of all types of dials, the hands, bezels, case backs, different winding crowns, bracelets, calibers and historical aspect of all models.
     
    "Together with the book, a useful insert is found which includes:
    - "UPDATED ESTIMATES" of Rolex Milgauss, Yacht-Master, Turn-O-Graph, Explorer I, Explorer II
    - "CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF PRODUCTION" to be able to find the year of production of your Rolex
    - "USEFUL ADDRESSES FOR THE COLLECTOR" with the best contact to buy, sell and exchange Modern and Vintage Rolex
     
    Price 620 EUR, CHF 695

    ORDER BOOK

  • Book - Collecting Rolex GMT-Master



    After the great success of the first edition "Collecting Rolex GMT-MASTER wristwatches", now sold out, Mondani Editor has decided to publish a second version which also presents the models produced in recent years, in order to give the information which has become essential today for buying and selling GMT-Master watches and to improve the contents of the preceding edition.
     


    Some of the questions a collector asks himself nowadays are:
    - Are the aluminium bezel inserts of the ref. 6542 coeval?
    - Is there a way to know if the bezel has been replaced?
    - The ref. 1675 in stainless steel has been created with the possibility to fit two bezels: red/blue and black?
    Thanks to the in depth study, this edition helps to dispel these doubts.
     


    Only in this book will it be possible to find the first models of the 50's down to the most recent watches. Special attention has been paid to the variations of the bezels, dials and cases - factors which today help determine the value of the watch. "Collecting Rolex GMT-MASTER" is a specific volume about Rolex GMT - MASTER which includes timepieces from the first models of the 1950's to the ones of the last period, including prototypes, military models, bracelets and all case and dial variants.

    This edition also offers a widening of those references which have always been desired by enthusiasts and collectors, such as for example the refs. 6542, 1675, 16750 and many others.
     


    For each reference, a detailed sheet is reported, indicating the years of beginning and end of production, the calibre and all the characteristics of the watch (crystal, bezel, bracelet, case back, winding crown, case number with production year, dial, movement, ...).
    "Collecting Rolex GMT-MASTER Wristwatches" also offers a widening of those references which have always been objects of desire of enthusiasts and collectors, such as the refs. 6542, 1675, 16750 and many others.

    ORDER THIS BOOK
    BESTSELLERS AND SPECIALS OFFERS BY WATCHPRINT

  • Tennis & Timepieces - High Profile Venue for Watches


    WORLDTEMPUS - 8 June 2011

    The world-class tennis tournament in the heart of Paris seems to be the stage that tennis has set to show off players' and spectators' love of watches.
    Rafael Nadal's spectacular win over Roger Federer in the finals of the tournament - his sixth French Open championship on the slow red clay in seven years - represents a continuation of Richard Mille's foray into high-profile ambassadorships. Confirming Mille's ever-accurate nose, world number one Nadal has been on a serious winning streak since first strapping the controversial RM 027 tourbillon to his sweaty wrist last spring.


    Some watches played on the clay right along with the players. Richard Mille defeated Rolex in the finals - in every sense. While Nadal seems more than content to wear the ultra-light, ultra-expensive, and ultra-cool black tourbillon during play and practice, Rolex has not yet been able to convince Federer to don his flavor of the day while swatting the yellow felt ball.
    Young Talents
    Five-time French Open sponsor Longines has also not been able to convince its many spokesplayers to wear one of its watches while playing either. Asked about this, CEO Walter von Känel was unconcerned. "It's a personal choice," he said.
    Longines sponsors a number of young talents in the tennis arena. This year, the brand put on the fairly lavish Future Tennis Aces program, which allowed sixteen under-13-year-old players from all over the world to come to Roland Garros for a week, partake in a tournament on the actual tournament grounds, and soak up the atmosphere of professional tennis.
    Additionally, Longines also runs a program it calls the Rising Tennis Stars, which aims to support young tennis talents between the ages of 17 and 21 years as they develop their careers. These Rising Stars currently include Grigor Dimitrov, the 20-year-old number-one tennis player from Bulgaria, ranked number 64 in the ATP Tour rankings; Tiago Fernandes, Brazil's the number-one tennis player under 21 and currently ranked 392 on the ATP computer; Tsung-Hua Yang, the first player from Taiwan to be the number one junior player in the world, currently ranked 302 by the ATP; Sabine Lisicki of Germany, who reached a career high as number 22 in the WTA rankings in August 2009; Ryan Harrison (USA), who reached a career-high no. 7 in world junior rankings in 2008 and is currently ranked no. 119 on the ATP computer; 18-year-old Roberto Carballes Baena (Spain) is currently ranked number 446 by the ATP and number 11 on the ITF Junior World rankings; and Sai-Sai Zheng (China), currently ranked no. 275 on the WTA Tour, is one of the highest ranked 17-year-old players.
    During Roland Garros, Longines also awarded former world number one Jim Courier with the Longines Prize for Elegance, which he received from Longines ambassador Andre Agassi. He received it as a tribute to his work with disadvantaged children, notably through his foundation Courier's Kids.

  • Sotheby's - Historic Watches sold for CHF 7.754.000


    b Prices for 19th Century Pieces made for the Chinese, Turkish and Indian markets A rare Chronograph Patek Philippe ref. 2499 sold for CHF 722.500 ($815.637) An 18K Gold and enamel scent flacon made for the Chinese market by Piguet & Capt circa 1807 fetched CHF 242,500 ($273,761)

    Sotheby's sale of Important Watches this evening was led by a highly rare Patek Philippe chronograph which fetched CHF 722,500 ($815,637) and one of the most exclusive examples of a stainless steel Rolex Daytona "Paul Newman" with inverted lines, which realised CHF 206,500 ($233,150). With b prices for pieces made for the Chinese, Turkish and Indian markets, the sale attracted buyers from around the world and more than 300 clients had registered to participate.

    • More information

    • Results

  • Rolex - Datejust Special Edition

    This bold incarnation of a feminine classic, in its 34 mm 18 ct EVEROSE gold case, enriches a collection already offered in yellow and white gold.

    Seductive charm of EVEROSE gold
    The 18 ct Everose gold of the case, bracelet and bezel sets the tone from the outset: an exclusive Rolex alloy, captivating in its inherent lustre and nobility. A mixture of serenity and vitality, sobriety and audacity, it exerts an irresistible power of seduction and gives the watch its b personality. Around the bezel sparkle 12 brilliant-cut diamonds, elegantly showcased in 18 ct white gold settings. The effect is luminous, exquisite, enchanting.

    Dream dials
    Dazzlingly delicate, the Goldust Dream dial is a subtle, refined marriage of white or black mother-of-pearl and gold dust. The mother-of-pearl is embellished with a new nature-inspired motif and an exquisite design in pink gold dust applied in a fine layer via a patented PVD process which preserves the mother-of-pearl's natural structure while giving it a highly original metallic sheen. The slightest ray of light illuminates this magical dial with iridescent reflections that make the fine strata of the mother-of-pearl shimmer in a subtle play of light. Each of these dials, with a large gem-set numeral at 6 o'clock, is a unique, refined work of art, striking in its delicate splendour.

    Distinction and precision
    The new Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition stands out thanks to its gracious, curved lines, its feminine form and its new, elegant invisible clasp. It is also an Oyster with peerless precision and reliability, a waterproof chronometer equipped with a Perpetual rotor self-winding mechanical movement. A trusted companion under all circumstances.

    The lady who wears this watch looks ahead, stepping confidently towards her future. She glances at her watch, living the present to the full, her sights already set on expanding horizons.

  • Harry Winston - The Opus Era Continues

    Harry Winston's Opus has become more than a collection of outstanding timepieces. This blend of watchmaking dreams come true tells a story of determination that has turned into a cultural phenomenon, recreated annually by talented people who know how to derive synergy from an equal commitment to art and technology. For the past 10 years, Harry Winston has called on the originality and skills of independent watchmakers to realize its concept of superior watchmaking. For Harry Winston, watches reflect a passionate belief that you can - and must - go beyond the imaginable. Today, the House of Harry Winston is proud to present its 11th Opus, a watch that shatters watchmaking notions to bring you the disintegration of time itself.

    An extremely complex case stages the show. The three overlapping cylinders on three levels are configured to deconstruct time. The main circle is the hour's domain, flanked by two pavilions. One shows the minutes on a jumping disk for the tens and a running disk for the units. The other, slightly lower, displays the regular beat of a big titanium balance-wheel.
    Anarchy takes hold of the hours indication beneath the sapphire-crystal dome every 60 minutes. The numeral of the hour, assembled in the center of the circle, explodes into chaos before instantly reassembling as the new hour. It then remains still until the next disintegration. Instead of a hand, 24 placards revolve and rotate on a complicated system of gears mounted on an epicycloidal gear-train. Four satellites mounted on a rotating platform, each with three pairs of placards, provide a vertical transmission through a train of eight intermediate wheels, three elliptical gears, a triangular wheel and six conical pinions. The bevel gears are responsible for changing the axis of rotation of the placards and positioning them according to an elaborate drill maneuver. The triangular wheel and elliptic gears are calculated to vary the gear ratio to absorb shocks and prevent the placards colliding.
    The tooth profiles of the triangular and elliptical gearing have been obtained using sophisticated programs. These are today so powerful that they can calculate and display unconventional, and even extreme, gearing and analyze different parameters such as backlash. Parts are manufactured using photolithography, which produces micro-components to a precision unobtainable by traditional machining methods.
    The conical pinions for the bevel gears are just 1.2mm wide, yet their teeth are exactly profiled and angled, thanks to a new gear-cutting technique.
    The path taken by the placards has been calculated to minimize the space required for them to turn over. However, the shell of sapphire crystal, also extremely difficult to manufacture, gives ample room for the hourly animation.


    The transparent display back of the gold case reveals a manually wound movement in the style of the old pocket-watch movements with a big balance-wheel. Consisting of 566 components, including 155 jewels, the mechanism is finished in the most traditional manner of classic watchmaking, in sharp contrast to the crazy display of the hour. One version of the watch is gem-set in the contemporary style: a simple line of princess-cut diamonds lights up the contour of the caseband.
    The appointment has been fixed. The hour comes apart at its end, leaving its particles to explode outwards and be turned into new hours ad infinitum. Such complexity and ingenuity make Opus Eleven an important milestone in Harry Winston's exploration of time.
    Limited edition of 111 watches.



    DENIS GIGUET


    Denis Giguet trained as an engineer and started making a name for himself in fine watchmaking. The experience he gained with such firms as Rolex and Harry Winston developed into a visionary approach far in advance of the watchmaking industry. Familiar with the design and construction of highly complicated watches, he worked as production manager at Harry Winston. In 2007 he launched his own brand, MCT, and designed the Sequential One, a far-reaching development in creative engineering for which he involved the crafts of more than 20 experts in their fields. His creative energy has given birth to Opus Eleven, a timepiece where his own vision of time is perfectly expressed by the Harry Winston personality.

  • Antiquorum - Auction in Geneva Achieves CHF 7,006,275


    Geneva - Antiquorum's weekend sale of « Important Vintage and Modern Timepieces » held on Saturday 13th and Sunday 14th of November at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva, realised CHF 7'006'275 with 80% of the lots being sold. This concludes Antiquorum's autumn auction season with a total of CHF 15'922'890.
    In addition to the 339 online bidders, there was a substantial presence in the room as well as numerous telephone bidders. Attendance came from around the world , including Germany, Italy, the United States, Romania, Hong Kong, Taiwan, China, Singapore and Canada.
    "We are very satisfied by the results achieved this weekend in Geneva, in particular with the impressive price obtained for the Everest Rolex of Alfred Gregory", said Julien Schaerer, Managing Director & Auctioneer. "This demonstrates the great interest of collectors for timepieces that not only have historical significance, but also bear great emotional value."


    The top lot of the auction was the extremely rare Patek Philippe Ref. 2499, in Pink Gold (lot 643), which sold for a remarkable CHF 1'082'500. Other Patek Philippe timepieces achieved very good results, including the Ref. 3450 (lot 252), acquired for CHF 212'500 and the Ref. 866/75 in yellow gold (lot 636), with enamel hunting scene on the case back: "Departure of the pack at daybreak" that reached CHF 92'500.
     The Rolex Ref. 6098 (lot 621) worn by Alfred Gregory on Everest during the successful expedition of 1953, drew a lot of attention and excitement among the collectors. After fierce bidding in the room against the phone and internet, this watch of enormous historic significance sold for an exceptional CHF 145'300, more than 5 times its high estimate.
    Another timepiece of great interest, the Quarter-Repeating Navette-Shaped Ring Watch (one of only two known examples) given to The Emperor Napoleon I. (lot 466), reached a remarkable CHF 92'000.
    Girard-Perregaux wristwatches also obtained notable results including the "Opera Two, Tourbillon, Carillon 'Westminster' Minute Repeater with Tourbillon," No. 2, Ref. 99740 (lot 548) that achieved CHF 182'500. The "Vintage 1945 Collection Prestige Set Unique" (lot 547), comprising four exceptional platinum wristwatches, sold for CHF 112'900.
    "Superb complicated modern wristwatches made both by the renowned Manufacturers and the independent artisan makers draw increasing interest amongst a new generation of collectors, seeking exclusive and limited series watches", commented Etienne Lemenager, Director & Watch Expert.
    Omega aficionados were thrilled by the important collection of 40 Limited Edition Omega Speedmasters, property of a private Italian collector. These timepieces evoked great enthusiasm among bidders and achieved the exceptional result of CHF 223,250, with 100% of the lots being sold. Some of the highlights included the "Speedmaster Professional" Apollo XIII Ref. 3450022 (lot 12) which sold for CHF 9'375, the "Speedmaster Professional" 999 Galaxy Train Ref. 3571.50 (lot 25), made especially for the Japanese market which attained CHF 10'000 and the "Speedmaster Professional" Ref. 3570.40 (lot 27), another limited edition for the Japanese market, was acquired for CHF 8'750.
    Finally, the Panerai "Luminor" Ref. 6152/1, made for the Italian military frogmen circa 1950 achieved an outstanding result of CHF 100'900.
    "The Italian bidders have proven once again that they are key players within the European market continuing their traditional great interest for vintage wristwatches, in particular for Patek Philippe, Rolex and Panerai timepieces", said Thomas.

    Results

  • Sotheby's - "Paul Newman" Rolex sell for CHF 464,500 -


    Sotheby'S autumn sale of Important Watches confirmed the b interest of international collectors for rare and historic timepieces and automata. Over 400 clients registered to participate in the 243-lot sale, and many others relayed bids online and over the phones through Sotheby's staff. The auction brought CHF 7,920,100 (US$ 8,129,903), above the pre-sale estimate of CHF 5,505,100-7,659,500 (US$ 5,650,930-7,862,400)*. 42% of the lots sold achieved hammer prices in excess of their high estimate, with sell-through rates of 84% by lot.


    Commenting on the exceptional results of the sale, Geoffroy Ader, European Head of Watches at Sotheby's, said: "Recent sales have witnessed a b and ever-increasing demand for antique pieces of particular historic and decorative interest. Based on recent demand from buyers from the Middle East and Asia, we were fortunate to be able to source a large group of very rare enamel timepieces and automatons made for the Chinese and Turkish markets and were rewarded with enthusiastic interest and bidding participation from an international clientele. In addition, an exceptional selection of modern and vintage timepieces held tremendous appeal for worldwide collectors seeking quality in today's marketplace".
    A rare automaton caterpillar, made for the Chinese market circa 1820, sells for CHF 404,500 (US$415,215) to an Asian Buyer.

    One of the top lots of the sale was a rare gold, enamel, jewel and pearl-set automaton caterpillar, probably made by Henri Maillardet, circa 1820 (lot 138). Estimated at CHF 350,000-450,000 (US$ 357,000- 459,000), this automaton, which perfectly mimics the gracious undulating crawl of a caterpillar, is sometimes referred to as "Vers de Soie" to further enhance its Orientalist character. This singular piece, one of only a handful of automated caterpillars known to exist, has been attributed to Henri Maillardet. Made in early-19th century in Switzerland, it was titled "the Ethiopian caterpillar" when Maillardet, in partnership with Jaquet Droz, organized an exhibition to show off his menagerie of miniaturized automata in London, which dazzled the public.


    Historical Pocket Watches soar, totalling an impressive CHF 2,266,500, to nearly double presale estimates Tonight's sale showed a groundswell of interest in pocket watches with historical resonance and decorative allure. This category - the subject of increasingly fierce competition in recent Sotheby's sales - secured b bids, bringing the combined total for pocket watches to CHF 2,226,500, well above the pre-sale estimations (CHF 1,321,500- 1,834,500/ US$ 1,350,950-1,874,300).
    Highlighting the outstanding group of historic pieces were unique timekeepers and automata made for the Chinese and Turkish markets. Five bidders competed for a rare and exceptional pair of gold, enamel and hard stone centre seconds watch with split pearls made for the Chinese market, circa 1800. Estimated at CHF 80,000- 120,000, these two watches accompanied by their original keys (lot 135) fetched CHF 266,500 (US$ 273,560). This great result was no doubt sparked by the fact that this exquisite piece was made by William Ilbery, most commonly known as a fine maker of watches for the Chinese market and credited for rare examples made of moss agate such as this present example. Examples of Ilbery's extraordinary craftsmanship are exhibited worldwide, notably in the Patek Philippe Museum, Geneva.
    Testament to the extraordinary craftsmanship and imagination behind the ornamental pieces made for the Turkish market, a fine and rare chronometer watch with date indication, made circa 1830 by Aug. Courvoisier & Cie, Chaux de Fonds realised CHF 62,500 (US$ 64,156) (lot 140). Estimated at CHF 15,000- 25,000, this exquisite timepiece depicts on the reverse the Cemetery of Eyup, Istanbul.
    Antique pocket watches featured bly in the sale, covering four centuries from the 17th century to the 20th century. Among the highlights in the selection was a very fine and rare yellow gold and hardstone-set openfaced watch by Breguet, legendary Swiss watchmaker who counted among his most loyal clients Marie-Antoinette, Napoleon, the Queen of Naples and Russian Tsar Alexander I. Estimated at CHF 30,000-50,000, this watch (lot 161) sold for CHF 68,500 (US$ 70,315). Reflecting the originality, fine workmanship and elegance of Breguet's timepieces, this watch was decorated by Jean-Baptiste Fossin and his son Jules, predecessors of Chaumet, it was sold on 20 March 1839 to Madame la Generale Adadouroff.
    Provenance and rarity triggered b competition for another historical time piece in the sale: a fine and rare gold perpetuelle, calendar dress watch no. 02/07, made circa 1925 by L. Leroy & Cie, Paris (lot 162). Estimated at CHF 20,000-30,000, this watch achieved CHF 45,000 (US$ 46,192). It remained in the hands of the original owner's family until now. This limited edition, of which seven examples were made, was purchased through Robert Darblay who commissioned them for himself and other members of his family.
    Five bidders competed for one of the highlights of the 18th century pocket watches: a magnificent gold and agate quarter repeating verge watch with two matching chatelaine and necessaire, which sold for CHF 134,500 (US$ 138,063) (lot 121). Made circa 1760 by Cabrier, known as the 17th and 18th century French watchmaker of European monarchs and aristocracy, the lot was estimated at CHF 25,000-35,000.
    Blue chip vintage and modern wristwatches perform well Bringing together an impressive range of timepieces charting the evolution of watchmaking from the 1620 to the present day, tonight's sale saw good performance for blue chip vintage and modern wristwatches, Following the success of Rolex wristwatches last May, a very rare stainless steel Rolex chronograph wristwatch with brown dial, registers and bracelet circa 1969 (ref. 6263/6239) oyster cosmograph "Paul Newman" (lot 104) realised CHF 464,500 (US$ 476,805), over five times its pre-sale high estimate of CHF 60,000 - 80,000. Among the rarity of its "Paul Newman" dial, the present watch is notable for its unusual signature featuring the Oyster on the third line after Rolex and Cosmograph and for its rare discoloured dial.
    A rare stainless steel Rolex chronograph wristwatch with registers and dated circa 1966 (ref. 6263/6239) oyster cosmograph Daytona "Paul Newman" - one of the most celebrated models by the prestigious Swiss maker - fetched CHF 254,500 (US$ 261,242) (est. CHF 60,000 - 80,000) (lot 91), more than twice its pre-sale high estimate.
    The celebrated Geneva-based watchmaker Patek Philippe was also widely represented in the sale: Lot 198, a fine and rare 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe open-faced minute repeating perpetual calendar watch with moon-phases (ref. 844 MVT 198397 case 314584) whose production began in 1930 and was completed in 1964 realised CHF 134,500 (US$ 138,603) (est. CHF 60,000-80,000), and lot 207, a rare 18k pink gold Patek Philippe chronograph wristwatch with two-tone dial, register and tachometer 1955 (REF 1463R MVT 868696 case 684704), which realised CHF 242,500 (US$ 248,924).
    The sale also included a selection of vintage models by Cartier. Among them was a Cartier platinum curved rectangular bracelet watch circa 1930 Tank Cintree (lot 194) which fetched CHF 105,700 (US$ 108,500). Estimated CHF 30,000-50,000, this exaggerated and elegant Tank Allongee is a daring re-interpretation of the classic Tank shape, its closest relative in the Tank family being the Tank Louis Cartier. In Cartier: The Tank Watch, Franco Cologni describes the Tank Allongee as 'far and away the most categorical assertion of the rectangular form ever produced by Cartier, and in fact in the history of watch design.'

    The results

  • Rolex - Winners of the Young Laureates Programme



    Some of the world's foremost scientists, explorers, environmentalists, doctors and educators will gather in Lausanne, Switzerland, in November to honour the first five winners of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise: Young Laureates Programme.
    The Young Laureates Programme seeks to foster a spirit of enterprise in the next generation by giving young people the financial support and recognition to tackle the challenges facing humanity with innovative projects.
    More than 600 leading figures from Switzerland and around the world are expected to attend the Awards ceremony on 11 November 2010 at the new Rolex Learning Center at the Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne (EPFL), one of Europe's leading science and technology universities.


    Polymath Brian Eno, the British record producer, composer, singer, multimedia artist and a noted technological innovator, will be the keynote speaker at the ceremony. Long concerned with the future of society and the global environment, he will talk about the relationship between science and the arts.
    The Young Laureates, all aged between 18 and 30, are: Jacob Colker from the United States, Reese Fernandez from the Philippines, Nnaemeka Ikegwuonu from Nigeria, Piyush Tewari from India and Bruktawit Tigabu from Ethiopia. Their projects range from transforming volunteering for the 21st century to enabling impoverished women to create eco-ethical fashion goods, from developing interactive radio in order to promote sustainable farming, to training volunteers to provide rapid care to road accident victims and developing TV programmes to improve children's health.
    "On the occasion of the Awards ceremony, Rolex is taking the opportunity to showcase both the winners and their visionary projects and to foster intellectual exchange between them and some of the best thinkers from Switzerland and abroad," said Rebecca Irvin, head of the Rolex Institute, the company's philanthropic and educational arm. "Our ultimate goal is to encourage an enterprising spirit among under-30s worldwide and to stimulate innovation in the region in order to help ensure a better future for the next generation."
    An inspiring programme
    To coincide with this celebration, from 9 to 11 November, Rolex and the EPFL are co-hosting a series of presentations encompassing the theme of innovation. All of these activities are designed to facilitate the exchange of ideas among the Young Laureates and international guests, including more than 40 former Rolex Awards Laureates and Jury members, as well as the 22 Young Laureate finalists and EPFL faculty members and students.
    As part of the interaction between the young Rolex entrepreneurs and the EPFL community, visits are being organized to two of the university's groundbreaking research labs: the Blue Brain Project, the first-ever attempt to reproduce fully a biologically accurate digital model of a mammal's brain in order to understand brain function and dysfunction; and the Global Health Institute, created to contribute to the understanding, prevention and treatment of infectious diseases. In addition, there will be presentations of the university's landmark research in areas such as health and diagnostics, and water and sustainability.
    "We are honoured to co-host the ceremony and to welcome the young innovators and other Rolex guests to our campus," said Adrienne Corboud Fumagalli, vice president of Innovation and Technology Transfer at EPFL and a member of the 2010 Young Laureates Jury. "The EPFL wants to stimulate entrepreneurship among students, and the Rolex Young Laureates Programme is a great match for us."
    Rolex Young Laureates Programme
    An expansion of the long-standing Rolex Awards for Enterprise, the Young Laureates Programme, launched in January 2009, honours men and women between the ages of 18 and 30 with inventive ideas to solve tomorrow's challenges in science and health, applied technology, exploration, the environment and cultural preservation. Each Young Laureate receives US$50,000 over the course of two years, giving the winners time to focus on their pioneering projects and move forward in implementing them. The Rolex Awards international network of innovators, comprised of former Laureates and Jury members, is available for guidance.


    The Young Laureates Programme complements the original Rolex Awards for Enterprise, which will be held again in 2012 and for which applications are already open (rolexawards.com).
    The five Young Laureates in the inaugural Rolex Awards for Enterprise: Young Laureates programme are:
    Jacob Colker, 26, United States - is changing the way people get involved in community service. His internet-based programme allows volunteers to use their smartphones to donate spare minutes to charitable and scientific organizations.
    Reese Fernandez, 25, Philippines - is committed to alleviating poverty by training people to become social entrepreneurs. Her Rags2Riches enterprise has already empowered hundreds of women to earn a living by turning scrap materials into elegant fashion accessories.
    Nnaemeka Ikegwuonu, 27, Nigeria - intends to boost the living standards of millions of Nigerian farmers through his interactive, mobile radio network. Hundreds of thousands of rural listeners are already receiving and exchanging information on sustainable farming practices and health issues.
    Piyush Tewari, 29, India - has set up a foundation to train a network of police officers and volunteers to respond quickly to road accidents and administer rapid medical care. By providing immediate assistance to victims, he hopes to stem the thousands of fatalities that occur on Indian roads each year.
    Bruktawit Tigabu, 28, Ethiopia - is building on the success of a television programme on health that she and her husband are producing for preschool children and their parents.

  • Rolex - The Mentors and their Proteges


    MUSIC
    Ben Frost (Australia) chosen by mentor Brian Eno (United Kingdom)


    Australian composer, producer and musician Ben Frost, 30, is recognized for his music that is at once compelling, mystifying, disturbing and beautiful. In 2005, after receiving a degree in fine arts in Melbourne, Frost relocated across the world to Reykjavik, Iceland, where he co-founded the Bedroom Community record label.
    His genre-defying work, influenced as much by Classical Minimalism as by Punk Rock and Metal, includes three emotionally powerful and critically acclaimed albums: Steel Wound (2003), Theory of Machines (2007) and By the Throat (2009). Frost's multidisciplinary collaborations linked him with renowned choreographers Gideon Obarzanek, Erna Ómarsdottír and Wayne McGregor, and with artists as diverse as Amiina, Tim Hecker, Nico Muhly and Björk. He is currently composing the score for the forthcoming massive multiplayer online game, World of Darkness, and working on several commissions for film and dance, including a reworking of Tarkovsky's Solaris and music for the new Random Dance production, Flesh in the Age of Reason.



    VISUEL ARTS

    Nicholas Hlobo (South Africa) chosen by mentor Anish Kapoor (United Kingdom)


    "In my works I celebrate being South African. I look at my ethnic identity, gender identity and colonial heritage," says 34-year-old visual artist Nicholas Hlobo. Since graduating with a degree in Fine Art from the then Technikon Witwatersrand in Johannesburg, in 2002, Hlobo has demonstrated the singularity of his artistic vision at group and solo shows from Cape Town to Rome and Boston. "The ideas he explores are as deliberate and dense as the stitches he uses to unite his signature materials - rubber, gauze and paper," observes Kerryn Greenberg, assistant curator at London's Tate Modern where, in 2008, Hlobo exhibited four works, entitled Uhambo, at the Level 2 Gallery for emerging international artists.
    The distinctive use of evocative materials is a hallmark of Hlobo's sculptural installations and performances, which are rooted in his native Xhosa culture and language. Among his most recent successes, he won the prestigious 2009 Standard Bank Young Artist Award for Visual Arts.


    DANCE

    Lee Serle (Australia), chosen by mentor Trisha Brown (United States)


    A naturally gifted dancer and fledgling choreographer, Lee Serle, 28, is a much sought after performer in his native Australia. Since receiving a bachelor of dance degree from Melbourne's prestigious Victorian College of the Arts in 2003, he has contributed to the work of several, mainly Melbourne-based, companies, notably Lucy Guerin Inc and Chunky Move, with which he has performed both nationally and internationally.
    His choreographic credits include A Little Murky, a small-scale piece that experiments with subtle characterization and showcases his powerful and theatrical style, and I'm in Love, for the Next Wave Festival in Melbourne. Serle relishes the Rolex mentorship as a "oncein- a-lifetime opportunity" of extending himself under the tutelage of such a "seminal influence" as Trisha Brown. "The chance of becoming a dance artist in New York is a personal goal," adds Serle, whom Brown describes as a dancer of "tremendous promise", ready to expand his horizons internationally.


    FILM
    Annemarie Jacir (Palestinia) chosen by mentor Zhang Yimou (China)


    Annemarie Jacir, 36, a visionary, Palestinian film director and poet living in Jordan, was named one of Filmmaker magazine's 25 New Faces of Independent Cinema in 2004, a year after graduating with a Master's in Fine Arts from New York's Columbia University.
    Co-founder of the Dreams of a Nation project, dedicated to promoting Palestinian cinema, Jacir deftly incorporates a nuanced analysis of cultural and political issues in her films, including like twenty impossibles (2003), an Official Selection of the Cannes Cinefondation. Her widely acclaimed debut feature, Salt of this Sea (2008), the first feature film by a female Palestinian director, premiered at Cannes and was an Academy Award submission for Best Foreign Language Film. It also won the FIPRESCI International Critics' Prize. Currently working on a new feature, Jacir cites Zhang Yimou's Raise the Red Lantern as a source of inspiration. "Films that I find the most inspiring are about the human spirit," she says.


    LITERATURE
    Tracy K Smith (United States) chosen by mentor Hans Magnus Enzensberger (Germany)
    An exciting new voice in American poetry, Tracy K. Smith, 38, has won recognition for her powerfully wrought poems treating themes from loss and passion to politics. Smith received degrees from Harvard and Columbia universities before becoming a fellow at Stanford and taking on various teaching positions. Since 2005, she has been assistant professor of creative writing at Princeton.
    Her two critically acclaimed poetry collections, The Body's Question (2003), winner of the Cave Canem Prize for the best first book by an African-American poet, and Duende (2007), recipient of the James Laughlin Award of the Academy of American Poets, will be followed in 2011 by her recently completed, "largely elegiac" Life on Mars. "Tracy is at precisely that point in her career when she would benefit substantially from having what she 'knows' challenged by a sense of the 'unknown' that a mentor would bring to the table," says Pulitzer prizewinning poet Paul Muldoon.

    THEATRE


    Maya Zbib (Lebanon) chosen by mentor Peter Sellars (United States)

    For over a decade, Lebanese actor, writer and aspiring director Maya Zbib has been impressing critics with her subtle portrayals in widely diverse roles. The multi-genre work of the 29-year-old bridges theatre and performance by marrying the two practices through a variety of techniques.
    Having acquired a Master's in Performance Making in 2007 from Goldsmiths, University of London, Zbib has created and performed in solo work, including The Music Box, a performance-installation staged in people's houses and showcased at international festivals. She currently comanages Beirut's Zoukak Theatre Company and Cultural Association, which she co-founded in 2006, and also teaches at Lebanese University's Institute of Fine Arts. In 2009, she was invited to participate in the British Council's Cultural Leadership International programme. Dedicated to theatremaking that has an impact on society, Zbib says: "I am very inspired by Mr Sellars' advocacy of theatre as a force for change."

    The Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative
    The Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative is an international philanthropic programme devised by Rolex and run by a team at the company's headquarters in Geneva. It seeks out highly talented young artists from around the world and brings them together with great masters for a year of creative collaboration in a one-to-one mentoring relationship.
    History and objectives
    The Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative was launched in June 2002. It runs biennially and is now beginning its fifth cycle (2010-2011). Its objective is to help perpetuate the world's artistic heritage. In keeping with its tradition of supporting individual excellence, Rolex is giving emerging artists time to learn, create and grow.
    Programme format
    Rolex invites masters in dance, film, literature, music, theatre and the visual arts to provide individual guidance to gifted young artists. In six disciplines, a senior artist (the mentor) agrees to foster and counsel a young artist (the protege) for one year. Each pair decides the most effective way of interacting.
    Selection of mentors
    Every two years, a new Advisory Board of distinguished artists and arts practitioners suggests and endorses potential mentors. Once the mentors have been approached and have agreed to take part, Rolex works with them to establish a profile of the protege they would like to work with.
    Selection of proteges
    Then, six Nominating Panels - one panel per discipline - are assembled. The panels are made up of experts qualified to identify suitable potential proteges. To ensure that the process is impartial, panel members remain anonymous during the selection period. Artists do not apply directly to the programme. Each Nominating Panel recommends potential proteges, who are then invited by Rolex to submit applications. The Nominating Panel studies all the applications and recommends three finalists. The entire process has an invaluable spin-off, as it allows the panellists to become aware of about 20 talented young people in their field. Rolex then arranges for the mentor to meet the finalists and choose his or her protege.
    Year of mentoring
    Mentors and proteges spend a minimum of six weeks together, though many spend considerably more time sharing knowledge and experience. The place and time of these interactions are arranged by mutual agreement. The form of the interaction is flexible, ranging from a protege being granted access to a master at work, to mentor and protege actually collaborating on a work. During the year, Rolex keeps in contact with the mentors and proteges to provide logistical support as required.

    Protege grant

    Each protege receives a grant of US$25,000 during the mentoring year, in addition to money to cover travel and other major expenses. Proteges are also eligible to receive a further $25,000 after the year is over. This is offered specifically towards the creation of a new piece of work, a publication, a performance or public event.
    Documentation
    To help give exposure to both the proteges and the programme, Rolex documents the year of mentoring in a publication and a film. A website - rolexmentorprotege.com - also describes the programme.
    Outcome
    After the mentoring year is over, Rolex continues to keep in touch with the proteges, following their careers with interest. The outcome for proteges varies: a new novel, a new stage production, a dancing career with the mentor's company and a collaborative artwork with the mentor are all examples of proteges' achievements through the programme. However, Rolex is aware that the full benefits of the programme for many of the young artists may continue far into the future.

    Global creative community

    Since the launch, in 2002, of the Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative, 256 artists, arts leaders and other cultural luminaries have participated in the programme. This includes 67 advisors who have helped select mentors and 147 nominators who have identified potential proteges. Programme participants contribute from across the globe, building a Rolex community of artists spanning more than 40 countries that grows in depth and scope with each mentoring year.

  • Rolex - Basel 2010


    WORLDTEMPUS - 20 March 2010
    It could have been an uneasy herd of impatient fans prior to a rock concert about to start for onlookers that did not have an interest in horology, but just happened to stroll by Hall 1 in Basel. However the impatient herds of bloggers, collectors and journalists did not wait for a big-ticket name in the music business to go on stage, but for a ditto in Swiss horology, Rolex, to reveal its novelties.
    Every year watch related websites start discussing what the leader of Swiss watch making might introduce of novelties once the doors open. Yet nobody knows for sure, since Rolex is as secretive with their novelties as their Oyster-cases are waterproof.

    This year, however, the introduction of a steel Submariner with maxi case and ceramic bezel insert was not much of a surprise. Such is the evolution of Rolex. Gold first, then steel/gold and now steel. The "aaaaahhhh" reaction did arise though, when the first impatient souls reached the mirror polished exhibition windows on Wednesday March 17th, when Baselworld opened its doors. The surprise reaction was due to a green dial and ditto ceramic bezel version of the Submariner of steel that paired up next to the black version at Rolex's impressive stand.


    Green may not be a colour embraced as joyfully by everyone as the Irish on St. Patrick's Day. This could be why Rolex decided to introduced a 39 millimetres version of what could easily be considered as one of the best looking models of all time, the legendary Explorer. A watch famed by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay's Mt. Everest exhibition in 1953. Both of them wore Rolex Oyster Perpetuals, creating yet another achievement for the Swiss watch company who used the world as a laboratory to test its watches under real conditions, since the young Mercedes Gleitze swam across the English Channel, wearing a Rolex Oyster, in 1927.


    The clean military look of the Explorer has not changed. But the new size of 39 millimetre - which is three millimetre bigger that the earlier version, ref. 114720 - is a perfect reason to rediscover a watch that has too long been considered too small for men and too masculine for women. This said, many women might just embrace this new size Explorer, as big watches are still popular on female wrists.

  • Rolex - Awards for Entreprise, New Young Laureates Programme

    Revue FH - February 26 2009 - N# 4


    Rolex has announced a new initiative to expand its international philanthropic programme to fund young pioneers and their groundbreaking projects around the world. In early 2010, the company will name the first five recipients of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise: Young Laureates Programme, honouring men and women between the ages of 18 and 30 with inventive ideas to solve tomorrow's challenges in science and health, applied technology, exploration, the environment and cultural preservation. Award recipients will each receive a US$50,000 cash prize to enable them to pursue an original project. Equally important, they will join the network of Rolex specialists and innovators who can offer invaluable expertise and guidance.
    The Young Laureates Programme is an expansion of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, which were established in 1976. The inaugural Rolex Awards commemorated the 50th anniversary of the Oyster chronometer, the world's first waterproof watch, and were created to encourage individuals ready to take on major challenges to benefit humankind and the environment. Since 1976, 110 Rolex Awards for Enterprise have been presented to Laureates and Associate Laureates from 40 countries, implementing projects in more than 60 countries. Recent winners include a social activist who has developed an affordable strategy to build housing for the rural poor using recycled materials in her native Paraguay (Elsa Zaldivar); a Scottish physicist who created a breakthrough method to predict volcanic eruptions via an unmanned helicopter (Andrew McGonigle); and a Jordanian chemist working to save the ancient archaeological site of Petra (Talal Akasheh).
    «Rolex has a history of supporting individual excellence and achievement,» said Rebecca Irvin, director of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise. «By providing project support at a critical juncture in the careers of young people, the Young Laureates Programme will reward bright new ideas and encourage the next generation to meet the challenges of the future.» Like the original Rolex Awards, the Young Laureates Programme will act as a springboard for men and women who use their creativity to improve life on the planet.
    «As our world becomes more interdependent and grows more complex, young people must bring new perspectives and fresh approaches to tackling our greatest challenges,» said Gilbert Grosvenor, Chairman of the National Geographic Society and a past jury member for the Rolex Awards for Enterprise. «Particularly in this era of global change and uncertainty, the Young Laureates Programme represents a vital investment in the brightest thinkers of tomorrow.»
    To find young people around the world determined to carry out projects with a significant impact, a range of institutions, organizations and individuals will be invited to nominate potential candidates. Those who accept the nomination will complete an application form that explains the scope, goals and feasibility of their projects. An independent jury will select five individuals with b potential to advance human knowledge and well-being.
    Each winner will receive the $50,000 prize over the course of two years. Funding of $25,000 each in the first year will give the Young Laureates the time to bring greater focus to their projects; the second instalment of $25,000 will propel the projects forward. Rolex may also provide additional support to the Young Laureates to pursue a related activity that will add further value to their work.
    The Young Laureates Programme complements the original Rolex Awards for Enterprise, it does not replace it. In 2010, five Young Laureates will be selected; in 2012, five Laureates and five Associate Laureates will again be chosen. The two variations of the programme will thus alternate every two years.
    Rolex's other global philanthropic programme, the Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative, also reflects an ongoing commitment to promoting excellence in the next generation. The Arts Initiative brings together emerging artists with re-cognized masters for a year of one-to-one collaboration in music, dance, literature, theatre, film and the visual arts.
    Both the Arts Initiative and the Young Laureates Programme provide the gift of time to exceptional young people at a key moment in their professional lives. Through Rolex's support, these promising individuals are able to take their work to a new level and contribute to their surrounding communities and the wider world.

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