Rolex Automatic Watch, Rolex Automatic Price List

Rolex Submariner Black Dial Stainless Steel Automatic Men's Watch 114060

Great watch, though at first I thought was a little big but seems of good quality and definitely turns heads.

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Sarah Field, From Owa Calella Barcelona

Rolex Datejust White Dial Automatic White Gold Ladies Watch 179239WRP

Absolutely adore this watch! Great look and a great price. Very good quality. Highly recommend.

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Christopher Pittas, From South Africa Rustenburg

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 mm Silver Dial Stainless Steel Automatic Men's Watch 116034SASO

After received the Rolex Oyster Perpetual No Date watch, we tried to set the time and it won't move. then we took it to the nearest UpReplica store, they told us to make a return or exchange since they also think this watch is defect item. Therefore, we made a return.

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Aneel, From France Boncourt

Our Venezuelan contributor Rafael Fernandez was astonished at the efficiency of the Swiss customs when he arrived at Zurich airport to cover Baselworld. He and his wife were politely screened at the airport and asked whether they were carrying any watches. Like any self-respecting watch journalist, Rafael had brought with him a small collection to last him through the show, which he offered for inspection. He was impressed when the customs official could instantly tell from the serial number of his Rolex that it had indeed been shipped originally to his home country of Venezuela.

Last week I discovered that this highly knowledgeable "customs inspector" was in fact one of the Swiss Watchmaking Industry Federation's team of roving experts, who were stationed at the cargo and passenger terminals at Basel and Zurich airports and prowling the halls of Baselworld during the show, looking for violations of the Swiss Made label, misleading customs declarations and breaches of trademark law. With the kind permission of the Federation Horlogere we have just reproduced the detailed report on this highly coordinated surveillance operation.

We also delve behind the scenes of another story this week, as Olivier Muller reveals the secret history of Carl F. Bucherer's Patravi TravelTec model, which ultimately led to the brand becoming a genuine manufacture. The leading figures of the industry continue to share their thoughts with WorldTempus. After today's profile of Longines CEO Walter von Känel, Bulgari's Guido Terreni and Romain Gauthier take the floor later on this week.

Former Arsenal striker and England international Ian Wright was the guest of honour on the Jeanrichard stand at SalonQP for the launch of the brand's new limited-edition Arsenal Terrascope chronograph in carbon fibre.

He may not have been the most obvious choice to line-up alongside the brand's CEO Bruno Grande, since he is not a member of the Arsenal squad and thus has no direct ties with the brand. In fact, his relationship with Jeanrichard came about more by chance.

"We were contacted by Ian Wright because he wanted to see the watches," explained Bruno Grande. "We don't have a direct association with him (we couldn't afford it), so he's a genuine friend of the brand and we have plenty more celebrities gravitating around the brand thanks to Arsenal." 

After patiently posing for photographs with visitors to SalonQP, Ian Wright corroborated this story for WorldTempus. "A business colleague of mine told me about Bruno and what he was doing. I hear about this kind of thing all the time but when I finally sat down with him and listened to him speaking about the watches I could tell that he was as passionate about the watches as I am about football. The way he talked about the watches and the history dating back to 1681 was fascinating. And it came at a time when I was getting back into watches so I was in the market and I wasn't sure what to get. I like the fact that it's classy and understated, and because I wear it on my right hand, everybody notices it."

The reason the former Arsenal forward was "in the market" was a particularly harrowing aggravated burglary at his home over the summer, during which his wife was held at knifepoint while his children were upstairs. Wright himself was in Brazil commentating on the World Cup for UK television and had to fly home to comfort his family. Apart from the emotional stress of the event, one of the physical losses he suffered was the theft of his entire watch collection, which included connoisseur models from the likes of Patek Philippe and Rolex. The unfortunate event has also led to a change in this collector's philosophy about watches.

"It's almost like starting again," he said. "I'm most probably going to end up with a few Jeanrichard watches and I will probably buy the one they just launched. But what I will do now is buy watches to wear rather than collect. I still have a 1969 Paul Newman Rolex (the thieves didn't get that one because it was being repaired at Rolex) and I'm going to start wearing it."

The new limited-edition model is the first chronograph in the Jeanrichard Terrascope line and comes with a new case in single-ply carbon, which has a uni-directional finish similar to brushing, even though the case undergoes no separate finishing after it is machined. It comes with the signature Jeanrichard "rubbergator" strap (rubber that is stamped to resemble alligator leather) with red stitching and, of course, the cannon of the Gunners as the small seconds counter. This strictly limited edition, of which only 50 will be produced, comes complete with a certificate of authenticity signed by three players from the current Arsenal squad, as well as - unusually - a 30cm diameter Jeanrichard wall clock.

But why does Ian Wright prefer Jeanrichard in particular, when as a football pundit travelling around the world to cover the major soccer events he gets to experience the marketing activities of various watch brands, as well as compare tastes with his peers?
"Footballers went through a phase of wearing massive watches," he explains, "which I call the silly phase. But what you see now is that they are going more for the elegant pieces, which is what I have always thought was synonymous with watches."

Undoubtedly besieged by newsdesks from all over the world, the green giant with the crown thus decided to react with these two sentences sent to the media: "Rolex confirms the arrival of Jean-Frederic Dufour, current CEO of Zenith, to ROLEX SA to take over the direction at a date still to be determined, and in agreement with the company's standing CEO, Gian Riccardo Marini. All other communication will be released in due course."

This is a big surprise in industry circles, since nobody expected Jean-Frederic Dufour to leave Zenith in the middle of its resurgence, nor Rolex to change managing director again so soon. Under the influence of the man from Geneva, Zenith had once again started to experience b growth. One of the symbols of this new direction was Zenith's sponsorship in 2012 of the fastest man in the world, Felix Baumgartner, the famous adventurer who broke the speed of sound in freefall from a capsule on the edge of space at an altitude of 39,000 metres.

After the stars of Zenith, the loyal captain of Jean-Claude Biver (the boss of LVMH's watchmaking activities) now sets sail for the crown of Rolex. A yachtsman in his free time, he will undoubtedly be looking forward to attending a few stops on the Rolex circuit, since this brand is one of the most heavily involved in sailing with events on all oceans from January through to December.

In what is either a coincidence in career paths or a genuine acknowledgement of the "Chopard school", Jean-Frederic Dufour will be bumping into his former colleague from Chopard, Philippe Peverelli, once again in the corridors, since he heads up Tudor, the other brand in the Rolex group. From Le Locle to Geneva is a small step for a commuter but from Zenith to Rolex is a giant leap for its boss.
 

WORLDTEMPUS - 2 August 2012

Every vintage watch is different. Accordingly, a collector determining the value of each vintage wristwatch comes down to putting values into an equation. And, ultimately, each watch has its own value equation. Knowing how to quantify and calculate the variables in the equation is equal parts experience, education, astuteness, and power of observation. While there is no substitute for experience, there are resources that can speed up the learning curve: an expansive collector's library, bookmarking the best websites, and - frankly - buying and selling as many wristwatches as you can responsibly afford.
As I explained to my wife many years ago (I don't think she believed me, but it's true), "Every time I buy and own a watch, I learn about the watch and learn from the transaction." Don't underestimate the learning also garnered when a watch is sold. You quickly learn which brands and models are the best to collect (which also equates to investing in), and which watches are better left to looking at pictures of.
 
The first order of magnitude, in establishing the value of a vintage watch is authenticity. While a counterfeit watch has value in the sense that it may (or may not) keep time and may look nice, we are talking pennies on the dollar (and sometimes much less) in terms of comparing the value of a counterfeit watch to its authentic counterpart. Our starting presumption and the first step in the evaluation of any wristwatch must be: is this watch authentic?

For the beginning collector, this is easier said than done. If you are going to be buying most of your watches from an established watch dealer, you can piggy-back on his or her experience and trust that you are purchasing authentic watches. Any dealer worth doing business with will guarantee the authenticity of any and all watches and will put that pledge in writing and offer a lifetime money-back guarantee should a watch turn out to be less than 100 percent authentic. Buying from established dealers allows you to safely spend your money and learn from each watch that you buy. Obviously, the dealer works on a profit, and buying from him or her may mean you are paying more than if you venture out into the wild by yourself. However, in my opinion, the extra layers of protection are worth the premium.
This is where spending big on a watch library before you start spending big on watches will really pay off. There are numerous watch books available, all of which are illustrated with pictures. From coffee table books, magazines and watch annuals to auction catalogs and collector's value guides, each and every book will advance your education. Many of the Italian collector's books are excellent (and expensive, but worth every penny). There are Japanese books and magazines usually focused on Rolex watches that feature amazingly in-depth picture series on the various models and their iterations over time. The Antiquorum auction house offers many, also available on Amazon and eBay. Unfortunately, many of the best books are now out of print. However, my advice is to spend liberally on books. Even after you are an experienced collector, you will find yourself referring again and again to your library. I know I do, every day.

Democratization of information is the essence of the Internet. There is no limit to the amount of learning one can achieve online. Antiquorum's online database of auction results is an educational goldmine. You can study the pictures of watches - each picture can be clicked on to open up a high definition image - and find out both what the experts on staff predicted the value of each watch would be at auction and what the watch actually sold for. Studying these results over time, one can learn which models do best in terms of value and which characteristics most closely correlate with a watch's value. Timezone is a great resource to spend days immersed in learning and DoubleRedSeaDweller is a magnificent website for Rolex Submariners and SeaDwellers. You should explore all that the Internet has to offer in terms of watch knowledge.
However, there is simply no substitute for experience. You should strive to see as many watches as possible "in the metal." Holding watches in your hands, studying them under a loupe, feeling their weight, winding them, playing with their crowns and chronograph buttons, putting them on your wrist, and noticing every last detail is the surest way to know immediately if a watch is authentic and if it is not.

Related stories:

COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (2)
COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (3)
COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (4)

Some will say that if you rub greatness, there's a good chance it becomes contagious. Richard Mille doesn't really need that kind of help from the champions he endorses - he's got the Midas touch himself. And a highly touted collection of watches to prove it, many of them named for one of the most impressive group of sports personalities ever to be associated with a watch brand not named Rolex. Rolex has never quite had timepieces this highly complicated or with tailor-made features suited to the specific sporting activities of its ambassadors. Richard Mille does, through, for its very interesting and creative partnerships. And several of the new watches unveiled at the SIHH 2013 underscore this yet again.

On top of it, Richard Mille's gang has an unprecedented eclectic flavor. Why such an obsession for champions? "I've always considered a bit sad that high watchmaking was some sort of a ghetto and that it should be more open to sports, to lifestyle, to the arts. And I'm interested in working with champions because I'm not afraid to put my watches in danger. Usually, the traditional contact between watchmaking and sports is through photography; with me, it's different: all the champions I work with wear their timepieces in their respective fields and we're forced to have an extraordinary level of resistance and quality in our watches. Every champion's timepiece is an extreme watch for extreme conditions." There's a new one being developed right now for Sebastien Loeb, the exceptional French driver with a record nine World Championship Rally titles under his belt. Loeb has been associated with small and affordable brand Marvin over the past few years.

b watches, not Armb

Is there a specific star Richard Mille would like to have under his umbrella? "I'm sure there are a lot of champions I'd like to work with. Basketball players, for instance, but they're not allowed to wear a timepiece in official play. With rugby players it's the same. Unfortunately!" Richard Mille can't even name one favorite champion out of his own group: "I'm not being politically correct when I say that I love them all. I really do. Plus, I have a great relationship with each one of them. For instance, I've got a great friendship with Roberto Mancini, who's been here at the fair. The same with Rafael Nadal, Felipe Massa…each one of them. What is important to me is that they have great personalities. They are humble, really professional, true gentlemen. And I love to work with them for as much time as possible. Take my friend Massa, who's had his highs and lows and now is coming back. And such is life."

Is it a dream team? "I'd say it is, because it isn't just the performance that interests me, it's also the personality. For instance, with Roberto Mancini we developed a watch related to football. And that's what I really like: to develop a new product with them. I love working with intelligent, subtle, interesting people. It's not just the performance - and that's why I'd say mine actually really is a dream team, because they form a group of such great personalities." There's one suggested star that won't make the Richard Mille family, though: the worlds' best-known cyclist, Lance Armb. "I don't think so, no. Ha ha."

More "technorological" creations

Richard Mille has created one or more exclusive series of timepieces for golfer Bubba Watson, polo player Pablo MacDonough, tennis champion Rafael Nadal, Formula 1 driver Felipe Massa and track & field sprinter Yohan Blake. At the SIHH, five of the seven new timepieces introduced were related to sports personalities, including two associated with FIA supremo Jean Todt. A sixth one, bearing the Sebastien Loeb signature, is on its way. Here are the new products.

Automatic Flyback Chronograph RM 11-01 Roberto Mancini

Roberto Mancini, formerly a champion on the pitch and now champion of the Premier League as the Manchester City manager, helped create the original RM 11-01, an automatic flyback chronograph with annual calendar, central minute counter and a dial divided into periods of play conceived to assist a coach not only during matches but also during extra time. The dial displays match time on the basis of two 45-minute halves and up to 15 minutes of stoppage time. Pressing the pusher at 4 o'clock once actuates the flyback function and repositions the hand at 12 o'clock, ready to start the second half. If extra time is awarded, the flyback function can be reactivated to show the 15 minutes of extra match time and up to 5 minutes of stoppage time.

Tourbillon RM 27-01 Rafael Nadal watch

It weighs one gram less (!!!) than the previous ultra-light, 20-gram RM 027 that Rafael Nadal started using in his greatest season (2010). The third timepiece resulting from the partnership between Richard Mille and the Spanish tennis champion will be used by Rafa himself when he comes back to the ATP World Tour next February after an eight month absence. It boasts a tourbillon capable of sustaining Nadal's incredible arm accelerations (more than 5,000Gs) during the course of a tennis match and the architecture of the movement, suspended in the heart of the case, is a marvel in itself. The RM 27-01 is available in carbon nanotubes and on a Velcro strap in a limited run of 50 timepieces. The other Rafael Nadal timepiece by Richard Mille is the Chronofiable-certified RM 035.

Tourbillon RM 59-01 Yohan Blake

The multiple medalist and Jamaican sprinter has been wearing a tourbillon prototype on his wrist, which provides a real-life testing ground enabling Richard Mille's engineers to define the specifications of a watch specifically designed for athletics. Yohan Blake worked with Richard Mille to develop a special caliber designed for sprinters the world over and the mission was accomplished with the funky RM 59-01 tourbillon watch, featuring dynamic bridges that span the movement and evoke the claws of the "The Beast" (Yohan Blake's nickname). Machined from anticorodal aluminum Pb109 and anodized (through anodic oxidation), it is hand-painted in green and yellow, two colors that also appear on the aluminum flange in tribute to the Jamaican flag. Limited to 50 timepieces.

Tourbillon RM 58-01 World Timer Jean Todt Limited Edition

It wasn't until the 20th century that the time zones we have come to know were implemented uniformly and adopted unanimously around the globe. Jean Todt, President of FIA, is a man constantly moving through time zones. The RM 58-01 Tourbillon is a user-friendly timepiece dedicated to constant travelers. The tourbillon, positioned at 9 o'clock and oscillating at a frequency of 3Hz, is accommodated in a four-part case made from titanium and red gold. The shot-blasted, satin-brushed and polished rotating bezel bears the names of 24 world cities on its brown upper flange. In contrast to other time zone watches, the RM 58-01 does not need any adjusting push-piece to change from one time zone to another. The time is set by simply rotating the bezel anticlockwise. Profits from the sale of this 35-piece limited edition will be transferred to initiatives close to Todt's heart: the Global Campaign for Road Safety and the ICM Brain & Spine Institute.

Tourbillon G-Sensor RM 036 Jean Todt Limited Edition

Already introduced as a pre-SIHH product a few months ago, the RM 036 features the emblematic curved and ergonomic Richard Mille cushion-shaped case specifically requested by Jean Todt for a timepiece housing a tourbillon movement made entirely of grade-5 titanium and ARCAP, with a carbon-nanofiber base plate. The cocktail of futuristic materials provides the movement with optimal resistance and flatness, offering at the same time an appealing contrast with the finishing. It also boasts a brand-new complication: a mechanical G-sensor, developed and patented by Renaud et Papi exclusively for Richard Mille, which translates the movement of a small internal mechanism to an indicator, thereby enabling the wearer to visualize the number of Gs accumulated by the wearer during rapid decelerations. The scale located at 12 o'clock has a needle indicating whether the deceleration is safe (green zone) or critical (red zone) for the driver. Limited to 15 titanium pieces, profits will be donated to the global campaign for road safety and the ICM Brain & Spine Institute.

Tourbillon RM 56-01 Sapphire Crystal

When it was unveiled at the 2012 SIHH, the RM 056 Split-Seconds Competition Chronograph Sapphire bearing the name of Formula 1 driver Felipe Massa caused a stir with its case made entirely of sapphire crystal. Following such a technical feat and determined to continue challenging the very limits of fine watchmaking, Richard Mille created another "transparent" masterpiece for 2013: the RM 56-01 Sapphire Crystal. The quest for extreme transparency at the heart of a titanium movement led the engineers to use sapphire crystal for the central bridge and third wheel. Caliber RM 56-01, made from sapphire crystal and titanium, is immune to temperature variations and wear. Collaboration with Biwi SA made it possible to develop Aerospace nano, employing nanotechnology to obtain unequalled transparency and strength for a revolutionary strap. Because the machining of sapphire crystal is an extremely difficult process, the RM 56-01 is only available in a very limited edition of five timepieces.

The Tourbillon RM 039 Aviation E6-B Flyback Chronograph watch

Not quite related to any traditional sport or athlete, the RM 039 Aviation E6-B pilot's watch is the other brand-new product for 2013 and displays practically all the information provided by the famous E6-B slide rule. Incorporated into the bidirectionally rotating bezel, it can be used to read off and calculate fuel burn, flight times, ground speed and wind correction, and to quickly convert units of measurement (Naut/KM/Gallons/ Liters/Feet/KG/LBS). Another special characteristic of the RM 039 that distinguishes it from other pilot's watches is that it enables density altitude to be calculated using a movable indicator incorporated into the case band at 2 o'clock: an original function brought to watchmaking for the very first time. The Tourbillon RM 039 Aviation E6-B is a highly technical instrument that embodies the bridge between watchmaking and aeronautics. Limited edition of 30 timepieces in titanium.

Christie's Geneva auction sale of Important Watches including A Gentleman's Pursuit for Excellence, Part I fetched a total result of SFr.27,042,825/$28,557,223/€22,445,545, selling 96% by lot and 97% by value.
The exceptionally rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499/100, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1987 and offered from the collection of Eric Clapton, sold for SFr. 3,443,000 / $3,635,808 / €2,857,690, setting a world record price for this reference at auction.

The top price of the sale was paid for the „J.B. Champion Platinum Observatory Chronometer, a unique platinum chronometer wristwatch, ref. 2458, which was specially manufactured by Patek Philippe for J.B. Champion, the legendary American watch collector, in 1952. This historically important timepiece realized SFr.3,779,000 / $3,990,624 / €3,136,570, setting a world auction record for a watch without complications.

World record prices were also set for numerous references and models in the following categories: Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, antique and 20th century enamels, decorative watches and contemporary watches.
Aurel Bacs, International Head of Christie's Watch Department, commented: "Christie's auction of Important Watches in Geneva performed extremely well, demonstrating great consistency at all levels in terms of watches, prices and clients. In a broad, healthy and ever growing market, where buyers demand expertise and scholarship, we offered once again the finest selection of watches and wristwatches. A packed saleroom, today's seven-hour marathon auction welcomed some 500 registrants from five continents, generating stellar sell-through rates as well as breaking numerous records. Collectors, public and private museums, the trade and also an investment watch fund, battled out the bidding for the best watches seen at auction this season, reconfirming Christie's market leadership in every horological category. This is our recipe: sourcing top quality properties, pricing them accurately, presenting them to the right audience, in the right place, at the right time".

TOP LOT: J.B. CHAMPION PLATINUM OBSERVATORY CHRONOMETER
The most valuable lot of the sale, an historically important and unique platinum chromometer wristwatch with Guillaume balance, Bulletin d'Observatoire, additional diamond-set dial and platinum bracelet, ref. 2458, made especially for J.B Champion by Patek Philippe in 1952, sold for SFr.3,779,000 / $3,990,624 / €3,136,570 (lot 88).
ERIC CLAPTON'S PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 2499/100 IN PLATINUM
Offered from the Collection of Eric Clapton, an exceptionally rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499/100, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1987, sold for SFr. 3,443,000 / $3,635,808 / €2,857,690 (lot 151). Only once previously sold at auction in 1989, it then changed hands for $250,999.
A COLLECTION OF ANTIQUE POCKET WATCHES MADE FOR CHINESE MARKET
100% sold by lot and by value, the sensational collection of antique watches, comprising the different styles made for the export to China, fetched a total result of SFr.2,303,500 / US$2,432,496 / €1,911,905, exceeding its pre-sale estimate by five times. The top lot of the collection was an exceptional gold and enamel openface centre seconds duplex watch with enamel by Jean-François-Victor Dupont, made for the Chinese market by William Ilbery, London, circa 1815 (lot 194), which sold for SFr.651,000 / US$687,456 / €540,330.
The majority of the pieces offered for sale were acquired by the present owner and her late husband during their repeated journeys to the Orient between the late 1950s and the 1970s.
A GENTLEMAN'S PURSUIT FOR EXCELLENCE, PART I
Part I of A Gentleman's Pursuit For Excellence, a superb private collection of complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches and pocket watches, totalled SFr.1,332,000 / US$1,406,592 / €1,105,560. The top lot of the collection was a white gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 3448, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1974 (lot 316), which sold for SFr.387,000 / US$408,672 / €321,210.
Part II will be offered at Christie's Geneva on 13 May 2013.

HODINKEE - 15 October 2012

Turn down a side street off one of London's most famous roads, and you'll find yourself on a block that could be nearly anywhere in central London. Rows of identical townhouses in faded brick line both sides of the narrow paved lane, and there is something sleepy about the place. But hidden on an upper floor of one of these nondescript residences sits the Bamford Watch Department.
The Bamford Watch Department is the brainchild of George Bamford, a charming, amiable Londoner with a love of spy novels (which inspired the semi-hidden headquarters) and a very earnest telling of the inspiration for his company. For his eighteenth birthday, George was given a Rolex Daytona and thought he had received the coolest watch on the planet. But quickly, after finding numerous friends with the same Daytona on their wrist, he started thinking of ways to make his watch more "his."

George is passionate about Rolex and historic sport watches, and collects them feverishly. He wanted to work within this framework while also creating something personal and unique for himself (and now his customers). Rather than designing new watches from the ground up, George decided to take the classics he loves so much and customize them.
The foundation of a Bamford watch is the super high quality PVD coating. But on top of this there are numerous options. Dial finish, hours/minutes markers, hand configurations, bezel treatments, and a number of other things can be tweaked and adjusted to suit the customer's preferences. The goal is to deliver a watch that is unique and personal to the wearer. It is important to note that Bamford was indeed the first to customize a Rolex, and is considered to be the highest quality of the now many after-market customizers. No expense is spared. To give you an idea, Bamford is currently working on a special engraved case for a client, and they've hired ex-Purdey engravers to do the work. If you know Purdey, you know what that means - the absolute best.

Entering the discrete Bamford Watch Department headquarters feels like stepping into a Bond novel. Up the plush stairs and through a heavy door is a watch lover's dream lounge. Outfitted with chalk-striped Ralph Lauren furniture, photographs of BWD watches, white orchids, a model Ferrari, decades-old watch books, and even a few bottles of Rolex's Perpetually Yours cologne, the room feels more like your cool best friend's living room than a place to buy watches. And Bamford's love of Rolex is more apparent nowhere than in this room.
During our recent trip to London, George was kind enough to sit down with team HODINKEE to walk us through his latest offerings. Opening the sleek case he brought with him, George showed us a California Dial Submariner, a Sonar Milgauss, a Ghost Milgauss, a Paul Newman-esque Daytona, and a handful of other interesting BWD watches. The quality of every details was extremely high across the board - these are a far cry from most after-market modifications. Very cool indeed.

George gets excited when he talks about meeting clients with interesting ideas (whether they share his particular taste or not), listens more than he speaks, and seems genuinely excited about giving people a product for which they can feel a real sense of ownership. The "I did it for myself and it just happened to become a business" story doesn't sound contrived or fake at all when George tells it, and by the end of our afternoon together, I was already trying to figure out which configuration I might want most.
Click here to check out more from the Bamford Watch Department, and view their recently redesigned website.

It will not be just the world's biggest book on Rolex watches (together with "Rolex Submariner Story" and "Collecting Rolex Milgauss, Turn-O-Graph, Yacht-Master, Explorer") but also the most important edition ever done on Rolex: Rolex Daytona Story.
A limited edition, in a large format, with unpublished material, very specific content, top quality images and updated estimates of all watches covered.
All the usual features of Mondani's editions have been combined this time with the watch, which not only represents the dream of all enthusiasts, but is also an extremely important collector's item, the value of which will increase astronomically over the years.
The authors are Osvaldo Patrizzi and Guido Mondani, two of the greatest Rolex experts worldwide.
 

Throughout these pages, they illustrate all those small details which determine the enormous variations in watch value on the market today.
All references are presented with the dates of the beginning and end of production as well as specifying all their main features: push-buttons, crown, bezel, dial, crystal, bracelets, graphic details of logos, writing and hallmarks.
You will also discover many things about Patrizzi Dials, Floating Dials, inverted 6 and much more...
From the Daytona manual winding models to the Oyster Perpetual series 16500 with Zenith caliber and Oyster Perpetual series 116500 with self-winding movement and Rolex caliber. Osvaldo Patrizzi and Guido Mondani, after years of research and study, will answer the main questions of modern collectors, like for example:
Why the name Cosmograph?
Do personalized case backs exist?
What are the indexes of the Cosmograph dials like?
Why do Rolex dials oxidize and change color?
What are the differences between that dials of the series 16500
and the ones of the series 116500?
Updated estimates of all published Rolex watches are enclosed.

Juan Martín Del Potro had an easier time bringing home the gold at this tournament than perhaps others. It was obvious he felt right at home on the red clay of the Lisbon suburb's courts: disposing of France's Richard Gasquet (number 18 in the ATP rankings) in the finals and Switzerland's Stanislas Wawrinka (number 21) in the semifinals, the gentle giant put his Rolex Milgauss on his wrist directly after shaking his opponents' hands at every match.

Furthermore, Salomão Kolinski of the retail chain Boutique dos Relógios was on hand to present the winners with timepieces from Omega for the third year running. As Del Potro's Rolex ambassadorship prevented him from wearing other timepieces, he gifted his Seasmaster to the best Portuguese player, João Sousa, who lost to Spain's Albert Ramos in the quarterfinals in a valiant battle.
 

The ladies' champion, Estonia's Kaia Kanepi - currently number 26 in the world - received a ladies' Constellation.

A Timely Perspective - 28 March 2012

Jason Heaton is passionate about diving and has even achieved Rescue Diver Certification. Heaton, who lives in Minneapolis, grew up around Lake Michigan, where there are pristine ship wrecks thanks to the cold water. He has spent years diving in top spots around the world - in water ranging from Lake Michigan to the Honduras, Bonaire, Sri Lanka and even Boston Harbor (a murky site that wasn't his favorite). Heaton has found way to combine his love of diving with real-world dive-watch reviews for a variety of publications. Here he shares his thoughts with Atimelyperspective on what makes a good dive watch.

Jason Heaton somewhere off of Roatan, Honduras, wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Geographic Navy SEALs in rose gold. "Crazy watch in all respects!""The truth is that you don't really need a dive watch today because there are so many other dive instruments you can use, but there is a saying in the dive world that is critical: 'two is one and one is none'. If you have two pieces of equipment, it's like having one, and if you have one, it's like having nothing because anything can happen to a single instrument. You always need backup, and for me, that's a great dive watch," says Heaton.
Several times, Heaton has had to rely only on his watch when diving. In fact, he refers to a trip in Sri Lanka, where a diving buddy's dive computer died. Heaton lent his computer to that diver, and relied on his watch to track his own time and depth.

 Heaton uses his dive watch to track intermediate things he is doing under water, and asserts it's a valuable timing tool, as well. He especially notes that since underwater navigation is tricky, using the watch to time how long you are swimming in one direction, helps you to assess when you need to turn around in order to get back in time before using up air. Thus, says Heaton, the most important feature on a dive watch is a one-way ratcheted bezel for the ability to track elapsed time. Also, in keeping with the ISO dive standards, the watch should be water resistant to at least 100 meters and have minute and hour hands that are distinctively different from each other.
"Additionally, when looking to buy a diver's watch, one really needs to look at the strap. It's the first thing you have to deal with after putting on your wetsuit, so it's good to have a rubber or Velcro strap that fits over the suit, or a quick change bracelet. Divers also want a bezel that's grippy and turns easily enough to set. Luminescence is so important because you need ease of telling time under water, and finally the big clunker watches can get hung up on gear and snagged on things, so a lower profile watch is better."
Among Heaton's favorites: Rolex, Citizen, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Doxa.

The archetype of the diver's watch, the Oyster Perpetual SUBMARINER presented at Baselworld 2012 sports a new look to complement its iconic personality. with its subtly redesigned case and its new bezel and bracelet both benefitting from recent Rolex innovations, this latest generation SUBMARINER is firmly in line with the tradition of the historic model launched in 1953. It sets new standards in terms of robustness, legibility and reliability, strengthening its status as a watch of action with timeless allure.

Ceramic bezel and long-lasting luminescent display 

The unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel of this new SUBMARINER is equipped with a black CERACHROM insert made of virtually scratchproof, non-fading, corrosion-resistant ceramic. The graduations are coated via a PVd process with a thin layer of platinum. The sleek black dial harbours large CHROMALIGHT hour markers and hands filled with luminescent material that emits a long-lasting blue glow. This exclusive display offers exceptional legibility in the dark. 

The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness 

The SUBMARINER's 40 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 300 metres (1,000 feet), is a paragon of robustness. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosion-resistant 904L steel. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TRIPLOCK triple waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case in a manner akin to a submarine's hatch. It is protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case ensures optimal protection for the SUBMARINER's high-precision movement.

Calibre 3130, a superlative chronometer 

The new SUBMARINER is equipped with calibre 3130, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3130 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. 

The OYSTERLOCK clasp, functional and secure 

This SUBMARINER is fitted with a solid-link OYSTER bracelet in 904L steel. It features a new-generation OYSTERLOCK safety clasp and GLIdELOCK extension system. The ingenious patented system, located beneath the clasp cover, allows fine adjustments of the bracelet length in 2 mm increments for a total of approximately 20 mm - without using any tools. This allows the watch to be worn over a diving suit up to 3 mm thick and provides additional comfort in any circumstance.

This new 18 ct yellow gold version is beautifully enhanced by a dazzling bezel set with 48 brilliant-cut diamonds. Its new champagne colour dial is adorned with eight diamonds and, at 6 and 9 o'clock, 18 ct yellow gold Arabic numerals are each set with 16 rubies. The deliciously whimsical personality of this DATEJUST LADY 31 with all its allure of fine jewellery is paired with the technical qualities proper to every OYSTER.

Distinguished and highly elegant, the Oyster Perpetual LADY-DATEJUST unveils a new facet of its enticing femininity. The 18 ct yellow gold case of this gem for all occasions is exalted by a new champagne colour dial on which a large VI set with 11 rubies delicately and discreetly underlines the precious character of the model. The fluted bezel, a Rolex signature aesthetic feature, reasserts the watch's place in the lineage of the DATEJUST, an emblematic Rolex model which became renowned for its style and horological performance from the moment of its launch in 1945.
Rolex yellow gold
The 18 ct yellow gold of the case and bracelet of these two models is alloyed by Rolex in its own foundry before being shaped in the brand's workshops. Its unique lustre is the result of the extreme care with which it is shaped, machined and finally polished.

The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
The OYSTER case of these two models (31 and 26 mm respectively), guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of proportion and elegance. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct gold. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TWINLOCK double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a CYCLOPS lens at 3 o'clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case allies refinement with efficiency in protecting the high-precision movement.
Calibre 2235, a superlative chronometer
The DATEJUST LADY 31 and the LADY-DATEJUST are equipped with calibre 2235, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 2235 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all Oyster watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable.

Comfort, elegance and prestige of the OYSTER and PRESIDENT bracelets
The DATEJUST LADY 31 is fitted with an 18 ct yellow gold OYSTER bracelet with a concealed folding CROWNCLASP. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet offers remarkable comfort and ease of use. The LADY-DATEJUST model is fitted with an 18 ct yellow gold PRESIDENT bracelet with a concealed folding CROWNCLASP. This prestigious and elegant bracelet with solid semi-circular links is uniquely comfortable to wear and contributes fully to the aesthetics of the watch.

Gem-set splendour
The majestic 18 ct yellow gold case of the DAY-DATE II originally launched in 2008 adopts a new champagne colour dial set with eight baguette-cut diamonds and two baguette-cut rubies at 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock. It also features a scintillating bezel set with 80 baguette-cut diamonds. The brilliance of precious stones and the glistening lustre of polished gold interact to give this bold and distinctive piece all the nobility it deserves.
Rolex yellow gold
The 18 ct yellow gold of the DAY-DATE II's OYSTER case and the PRESIDENT bracelet is alloyed by Rolex in its own foundry before being shaped in the brand's workshops. Its unique lustre is the result of the extreme care with which it is shaped, machined and finally polished.

The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
The DAY-DATE II's 41 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of elegance. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct gold. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TWINLOCK double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a CYCLOPS lens at 3 o'clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case allies refinement with efficiency in protecting the DAY-DATE II's high-precision movement.
Calibre 3156, a superlative chronometer
The DAY-DATE II is equipped with calibre 3156, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3156 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The oscillator is fitted between highperformance PARAFLEX shock absorbers, patented by Rolex, which offer 50 per cent greater resistance to shocks.

Prestige and elegance of the PRESIDENT bracelet
This DAY-DATE II model is fitted with the PRESIDENT bracelet in 18 ct yellow gold with a concealed folding CROWNCLASP. This prestigious and elegant bracelet with solid semi-circular links provides unique comfort and contributes fully to the aesthetics of the watch.

The DATEJUST II continues the tradition of the DATEJUST, the emblematic model created by Rolex in 1945, the first self-winding waterproof wristwatch chronometer to display the date in a window on the dial. A reinterpretation of that symbol of the modern watch, the DATEJUST II inspires admiration with its impressive case and technical attributes.
The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
The DATEJUST II's 41 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosion-resistant 904L steel. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TWINLOCK double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a CYCLOPS lens at 3 o'clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case allies refinement with efficiency in protecting the DATEJUST II's high-precision movement.

Calibre 3136, a superlative chronometer
The DATEJUST II is equipped with calibre 3136, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3136 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The oscillator is fitted between high-performance PARAFLEX shock absorbers, patented by Rolex, which offer 50 per cent greater resistance to shocks.

Comfort and elegance of the OYSTER bracelet
This DATEJUST II model is fitted with a 904L steel OYSTER bracelet with a folding OYSTERCLASP. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet offers remarkable comfort and ease of use. It also features the ingenious EASYLINK rapid extension system that allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance.

Revue FH - 27 October 2011

Nestled in the heart of the Joux Valley, the firm Dubois Depraz designs, develops and constructs additional movements for watch complications for some of the greatest names in watchmaking, including Patek Philippe, Breitling, Rolex, Omega, Richard Mille, etc. Be it chronographs with multiple indications (with or without perpetual calendar), special mechanisms indicating days, months, leap years, moon phases, sunset and sunrise, the equation of time, tides, timezones, jumping-dials, governors, mechanisms for regattas, watches for polo, as well as minute, quarter and five-minute repeaters, extra-flat mechanisms, etc, the world of complications no longer holds any secrets for Dubois Depraz. Around fifty brands currently employ the services of the firm, which is ready to rise to any challenge thrown down to it.

110 years of history have led Dubois Depraz on the path to their present success. On 1st January 1901, Marcel Depraz set up his first watchmaking workshop in Le Lieu, at number 12, Grand-Rue, over the family baker's shop. Ten years later, with a view to increasing his firm's capacity, he teamed up with his brotherin- law Marius Guignard. Together, they set up a second company: Depraz & Guignard. Marcel's children, Gabrielle and Roger, also joined the family business. In 1937, Marcel Depraz decided to strengthen his two companies and employed his son-in-law Reynold Dubois. Results were not long in coming, with the rapid launch of the 13 3/4 chronograph calibre. This master stroke saw the production of more than 4.5 million movements up to the 1970s. In 1947, the two firms merged under the name Depraz & Cie. In 1956, Gerald Dubois, a young watchmaking engineer and father of the two present-day directors, set up a research and development design office.
Eleven years later the world's first modular chronograph was born, the 11-12 Chronomatic calibre. This invention was awarded the diploma and silver medal at the Brussels Inventors Show in 1969. Meanwhile, Depraz & Cie changed its company name to Dubois Depraz SA.

In the 1970s, despite the economic difficulties, the firm presented another world first, a mechanical chronograph with an analogue display featuring an electronic tuning-fork movement. In parallel, it diversified and embarked on the production of mechanical and quartz chronographs fitted as standard on aircraft and cars. Despite these launches, the crisis proved too b for the partnership between the two directors and in 1979 Gerald Dubois purchased the buildings and continued the adventure alone. In 1983, after several years of research, Dubois Depraz launched the calibre 2000 chronograph which could be adapted to all mechanical or quartz movements. This innovative concept caused a sensation in the watchmaking world and even today remains one of the firm's flagship products (around two million have been manufactured to date).
In 1987, Jean-Philippe Dubois, the current CEO, joined the company. He was followed five years later by his brother Pascal, who was appointed as director. Finally, in 2006, they acquired one of their suppliers, DPRM (Decolletage pignons et roues manufacture), located in Arch (canton of Bern).

In the course of these eleven decades, Dubois Depraz accumulated a huge wealth of expertise that was passed on from generation to generation. Even today the firm holds the secret of certain manufacturing phases no longer used by anyone else in the watchmaking world. An example is «tribofinishing», the process which consists in deburring and polishing pieces in a single operation. This involves turning pieces from one to seven days in sealed cylinders of different sizes, according to the desired end result. The media inside the rollers consist of different materials (copper, ceramic or plastic), special soap and polishing powder. Although the processes of deburring and polishing are widespread in the watch industry, Dubois Depraz's secret lies in the dosing of components and the length of the operation.

Manufacturing secrets alone would be worth nothing without skill, hard work, and the precision and quality of products delivered by Dubois Depraz. Today, 220 people in the Joux Valley and 50 in Arch work industriously under the roof of this independent family business.

The present Rolex ref. 5513, modified by the famous Q Branch, is certainly the most memorable Submariner to appear in movies and must be considered a veritable trophy not only for the watch aficionado but also for the amateurs of cinematography and of James Bond in general.

Especially designed for James Bond to be worn during 007''s mission in Live and Let Die, it was created in 1972 by the world-famous film production designer Syd Cain.
Featuring not only a bezel spinning at high speed to cut ropes and chains, in the movie it also bore an ultra-b magnet which was supposed to neutralize bullets but was, instead, used by 007 to unzip Ms. Solitaire's dress.
The lot will be sold together with an original construction drawing and two signed images from the set (estimate: SFr. 200,000 - 400,000).

Rumor has it that the new Rolex Explorer II was ready for presentation in 2010, but that Rolex did not present this new face-lifted version of the sporty watch until 2011 - 40 years after the first Explorer II was launched.
For many years, Rolex has been respected as well as ridiculed for its conservative approach to case sizes: 40 millimeters seemed to be the biggest case diameter offered in the sports collection. In the last few years, we have seen more and more models with a tendency toward growth: Yacht-Master II and Sea-Dweller DeepSea both come in a case of 44 millimeter diameters, and now the Explorer II also offers a diameter of 42 millimeter.
The Explorer II has never been the most popular reference made by the famed Swiss watch brand. The Submariner and GMT models have been the favored siblings, but even these two models still offer a moderate case diameter of 40 millimeters. Maybe Rolex wanted to push needed attention towards the Explorer II, hence the extra two millimeters?
 

Large watch
42 millimeters may seem like a large watch. However, since many parts and details of the new reference have grown, the visual size does not seem that radical. The case, hands, crown and hour markers are in other words dimensionally on par with the new case diameter. Visually, that is.
Wearing the watch, however, does challenge the visual impression. The Explorer II is a large watch. Comparing this to Reference 1655 or Reference 16570, which came out even later, the size difference is almost shocking. As mentioned, this will please those who have not yet bought a Rolex because they thought the watches looked too puny on their wrists.
Inspired by the past
One of the obvious details on the new Explorer II is of course the orange 24-hour hand. "Freccione," as Italian Rolex collectors long ago named this hand, means "arrow". This is a feature taken directly from the Reference 1655 Explorer II launched in 1971. The 24-hour hand was not separately adjustable on the early version, though. It merely functioned as an AM/PM indicator. However, bezel design looks more like the bezel of the short-lived Reference 16550 that was introduced in 1985 and face-lifted already four years later.
 

Phantom hands
The hands of the new Explorer II sport a so-called phantom effect, which means the lower part of the hour and minute hand is painted black. This little detail makes the hands look like they float free of the arbor. This works well on the black dial version, and merely represents a great contrast on the white dial version.
Latest movement update
Reference 216570 is outfitted with Caliber 3187, which features the latest technical updates like Paraflex shock absorbers and the non-magnetic Parachrom hairspring, which "ensures unparallel reliability, and shock resistance," according to Rolex.
 

White dial winner
The white dial version, even if it does not correspond perfectly to the 1971 version that was only offered with a black dial, gets my vote as favorite of the two dial versions. The b, graphic black/white contrast makes it stand out as this watch brand really does not offer a lot of white-dial sports watches. Actually, only the Daytona and Yacht-Master II come with a white dial, but the GMT, Submariner and Yacht-Master models do not.
Oldies but goodies
This said, I admit to favor not only Reference 1655, but also the 16550 or even the 16570. Not only due to their case diameters of "only" 40 millimeters, but also because these earlier versions have a more tool-ish approach to horology. And this is, after all, where the Explorer II started - as an instrument watch for cave explorers.
Rolex Explorer II Reference 216570 is offered with black or white dial and has a suggested retail price of 6,400 euros.
 

WORLDTEMPUS - 8 June 2011

The world-class tennis tournament in the heart of Paris seems to be the stage that tennis has set to show off players' and spectators' love of watches.
Rafael Nadal's spectacular win over Roger Federer in the finals of the tournament - his sixth French Open championship on the slow red clay in seven years - represents a continuation of Richard Mille's foray into high-profile ambassadorships. Confirming Mille's ever-accurate nose, world number one Nadal has been on a serious winning streak since first strapping the controversial RM 027 tourbillon to his sweaty wrist last spring.

- Christie's leads the international auction market for watches
- Geneva's Important Watches including a Connoisseur's Vision Part IV achieves a blockbuster total of more than us$ 26.3 million, +25% versus may 2010 results.
- New record price set for any rolex wristwatch at auction
- $3.6 million Patek Philippe - new record price for any simple chronograph watch
- More than a dozen record prices in one day
- 1 lot sold above us$ 3.6 million
- 3 lots sold above us$ 1 million
- More than 800 registrants from all 5 continents

TOP TEN RESULTS

Reaffirming Christie's absolute leadership in the international watch area, Geneva's sale of Important Watches including A Connoisseur's Vision Part IV achieved a blockbuster total of US$ 26,331,962 (SFr. 23,427,013 / € 18,647,902), an increase of 25% over last May's auction total in Geneva.
This is one of the highest results ever realized in the history of Christie's watch sales and leads the auction series dedicated to the category in Geneva this spring.
The top watch of the sale is a unique 18k white gold cushion-shaped single button chronograph wristwatch manufactured in 1928 by Patek Philippe which sold for more than US$ 3.6 million, a new world action record for any simple chronograph watch.
Among the other sensational new world record prices set at Christie's in Geneva is a new top price for any Rolex wristwatch at auction, achieved for an oversized stainless steel split seconds chronograph wristwatch manufactured in 1942, which sold for US$ 1,163,340.
Aurel Bacs, International Head of Christie's Watch Department, commented:
"The international community of watch collectors responded enthusiastically to this premium selection of rare wristwatches and pocket watches hand-selected by Christie's team of specialists for our spring Geneva sale. Our results confirm once again that Christie's is the auction house of choice for both buyers and sellers of the rarest and most important watches.
Today's sale was characterized by b bidding from the international trade, but dominated by private collectors and museums around the world. Eight different buyers secured the top ten lots of the sale - a sign of the immense depth of interest in this category.
The sale was notable for its spectacular moments - for the first time ever at auction, a Rolex watch surpassed the $1 million mark with the ultra-rare reference 4113 selling to a private collector for over $1.1 million.
We were also touched by the spirited bidding that led to a b result for the Hillary Tenzing Explorer set, which soared above everyone's expectations to sell for US$ 104,532 with all proceeds directed to charity.
Lastly, Christie's is extremely proud to announce that with Part IV of 'A Connoisseur's Vision', this prestigious collection of Patek Philippe watches reached the highest total ever for any collection of fine wristwatches ever dispersed at auction, reaching over US$ 22 million. We are grateful to the consignor for having entrusted Christie's team of watch specialists with the sale of this landmark collection and are immensely satisfied to see that the market rewarded his knowledge and passion to such an extent".
Earlier in the sale, the G. Garvin Brown III Collection, Part I was 100% sold with most watches selling above high estimates. Two further installments of this exceptional collection will be offered as at Christie's Hong Kong sale of Important Watches on May 30 and at Christie's New York on June 15, 2011.

b Prices for 19th Century Pieces made for the Chinese, Turkish and Indian markets A rare Chronograph Patek Philippe ref. 2499 sold for CHF 722.500 ($815.637) An 18K Gold and enamel scent flacon made for the Chinese market by Piguet & Capt circa 1807 fetched CHF 242,500 ($273,761)

Sotheby's sale of Important Watches this evening was led by a highly rare Patek Philippe chronograph which fetched CHF 722,500 ($815,637) and one of the most exclusive examples of a stainless steel Rolex Daytona "Paul Newman" with inverted lines, which realised CHF 206,500 ($233,150). With b prices for pieces made for the Chinese, Turkish and Indian markets, the sale attracted buyers from around the world and more than 300 clients had registered to participate.

• More information

• Results

Harry Winston's Opus has become more than a collection of outstanding timepieces. This blend of watchmaking dreams come true tells a story of determination that has turned into a cultural phenomenon, recreated annually by talented people who know how to derive synergy from an equal commitment to art and technology. For the past 10 years, Harry Winston has called on the originality and skills of independent watchmakers to realize its concept of superior watchmaking. For Harry Winston, watches reflect a passionate belief that you can - and must - go beyond the imaginable. Today, the House of Harry Winston is proud to present its 11th Opus, a watch that shatters watchmaking notions to bring you the disintegration of time itself.

An extremely complex case stages the show. The three overlapping cylinders on three levels are configured to deconstruct time. The main circle is the hour's domain, flanked by two pavilions. One shows the minutes on a jumping disk for the tens and a running disk for the units. The other, slightly lower, displays the regular beat of a big titanium balance-wheel.
Anarchy takes hold of the hours indication beneath the sapphire-crystal dome every 60 minutes. The numeral of the hour, assembled in the center of the circle, explodes into chaos before instantly reassembling as the new hour. It then remains still until the next disintegration. Instead of a hand, 24 placards revolve and rotate on a complicated system of gears mounted on an epicycloidal gear-train. Four satellites mounted on a rotating platform, each with three pairs of placards, provide a vertical transmission through a train of eight intermediate wheels, three elliptical gears, a triangular wheel and six conical pinions. The bevel gears are responsible for changing the axis of rotation of the placards and positioning them according to an elaborate drill maneuver. The triangular wheel and elliptic gears are calculated to vary the gear ratio to absorb shocks and prevent the placards colliding.
The tooth profiles of the triangular and elliptical gearing have been obtained using sophisticated programs. These are today so powerful that they can calculate and display unconventional, and even extreme, gearing and analyze different parameters such as backlash. Parts are manufactured using photolithography, which produces micro-components to a precision unobtainable by traditional machining methods.
The conical pinions for the bevel gears are just 1.2mm wide, yet their teeth are exactly profiled and angled, thanks to a new gear-cutting technique.
The path taken by the placards has been calculated to minimize the space required for them to turn over. However, the shell of sapphire crystal, also extremely difficult to manufacture, gives ample room for the hourly animation.

The transparent display back of the gold case reveals a manually wound movement in the style of the old pocket-watch movements with a big balance-wheel. Consisting of 566 components, including 155 jewels, the mechanism is finished in the most traditional manner of classic watchmaking, in sharp contrast to the crazy display of the hour. One version of the watch is gem-set in the contemporary style: a simple line of princess-cut diamonds lights up the contour of the caseband.
The appointment has been fixed. The hour comes apart at its end, leaving its particles to explode outwards and be turned into new hours ad infinitum. Such complexity and ingenuity make Opus Eleven an important milestone in Harry Winston's exploration of time.
Limited edition of 111 watches.

DENIS GIGUET

Denis Giguet trained as an engineer and started making a name for himself in fine watchmaking. The experience he gained with such firms as Rolex and Harry Winston developed into a visionary approach far in advance of the watchmaking industry. Familiar with the design and construction of highly complicated watches, he worked as production manager at Harry Winston. In 2007 he launched his own brand, MCT, and designed the Sequential One, a far-reaching development in creative engineering for which he involved the crafts of more than 20 experts in their fields. His creative energy has given birth to Opus Eleven, a timepiece where his own vision of time is perfectly expressed by the Harry Winston personality.

Geneva - Antiquorum's weekend sale of « Important Vintage and Modern Timepieces » held on Saturday 13th and Sunday 14th of November at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva, realised CHF 7'006'275 with 80% of the lots being sold. This concludes Antiquorum's autumn auction season with a total of CHF 15'922'890.
In addition to the 339 online bidders, there was a substantial presence in the room as well as numerous telephone bidders. Attendance came from around the world , including Germany, Italy, the United States, Romania, Hong Kong, Taiwan, China, Singapore and Canada.
"We are very satisfied by the results achieved this weekend in Geneva, in particular with the impressive price obtained for the Everest Rolex of Alfred Gregory", said Julien Schaerer, Managing Director & Auctioneer. "This demonstrates the great interest of collectors for timepieces that not only have historical significance, but also bear great emotional value."

The top lot of the auction was the extremely rare Patek Philippe Ref. 2499, in Pink Gold (lot 643), which sold for a remarkable CHF 1'082'500. Other Patek Philippe timepieces achieved very good results, including the Ref. 3450 (lot 252), acquired for CHF 212'500 and the Ref. 866/75 in yellow gold (lot 636), with enamel hunting scene on the case back: "Departure of the pack at daybreak" that reached CHF 92'500.
 The Rolex Ref. 6098 (lot 621) worn by Alfred Gregory on Everest during the successful expedition of 1953, drew a lot of attention and excitement among the collectors. After fierce bidding in the room against the phone and internet, this watch of enormous historic significance sold for an exceptional CHF 145'300, more than 5 times its high estimate.
Another timepiece of great interest, the Quarter-Repeating Navette-Shaped Ring Watch (one of only two known examples) given to The Emperor Napoleon I. (lot 466), reached a remarkable CHF 92'000.
Girard-Perregaux wristwatches also obtained notable results including the "Opera Two, Tourbillon, Carillon 'Westminster' Minute Repeater with Tourbillon," No. 2, Ref. 99740 (lot 548) that achieved CHF 182'500. The "Vintage 1945 Collection Prestige Set Unique" (lot 547), comprising four exceptional platinum wristwatches, sold for CHF 112'900.
"Superb complicated modern wristwatches made both by the renowned Manufacturers and the independent artisan makers draw increasing interest amongst a new generation of collectors, seeking exclusive and limited series watches", commented Etienne Lemenager, Director & Watch Expert.
Omega aficionados were thrilled by the important collection of 40 Limited Edition Omega Speedmasters, property of a private Italian collector. These timepieces evoked great enthusiasm among bidders and achieved the exceptional result of CHF 223,250, with 100% of the lots being sold. Some of the highlights included the "Speedmaster Professional" Apollo XIII Ref. 3450022 (lot 12) which sold for CHF 9'375, the "Speedmaster Professional" 999 Galaxy Train Ref. 3571.50 (lot 25), made especially for the Japanese market which attained CHF 10'000 and the "Speedmaster Professional" Ref. 3570.40 (lot 27), another limited edition for the Japanese market, was acquired for CHF 8'750.
Finally, the Panerai "Luminor" Ref. 6152/1, made for the Italian military frogmen circa 1950 achieved an outstanding result of CHF 100'900.
"The Italian bidders have proven once again that they are key players within the European market continuing their traditional great interest for vintage wristwatches, in particular for Patek Philippe, Rolex and Panerai timepieces", said Thomas.

Results

Sotheby'S autumn sale of Important Watches confirmed the b interest of international collectors for rare and historic timepieces and automata. Over 400 clients registered to participate in the 243-lot sale, and many others relayed bids online and over the phones through Sotheby's staff. The auction brought CHF 7,920,100 (US$ 8,129,903), above the pre-sale estimate of CHF 5,505,100-7,659,500 (US$ 5,650,930-7,862,400)*. 42% of the lots sold achieved hammer prices in excess of their high estimate, with sell-through rates of 84% by lot.

Commenting on the exceptional results of the sale, Geoffroy Ader, European Head of Watches at Sotheby's, said: "Recent sales have witnessed a b and ever-increasing demand for antique pieces of particular historic and decorative interest. Based on recent demand from buyers from the Middle East and Asia, we were fortunate to be able to source a large group of very rare enamel timepieces and automatons made for the Chinese and Turkish markets and were rewarded with enthusiastic interest and bidding participation from an international clientele. In addition, an exceptional selection of modern and vintage timepieces held tremendous appeal for worldwide collectors seeking quality in today's marketplace".
A rare automaton caterpillar, made for the Chinese market circa 1820, sells for CHF 404,500 (US$415,215) to an Asian Buyer.

One of the top lots of the sale was a rare gold, enamel, jewel and pearl-set automaton caterpillar, probably made by Henri Maillardet, circa 1820 (lot 138). Estimated at CHF 350,000-450,000 (US$ 357,000- 459,000), this automaton, which perfectly mimics the gracious undulating crawl of a caterpillar, is sometimes referred to as "Vers de Soie" to further enhance its Orientalist character. This singular piece, one of only a handful of automated caterpillars known to exist, has been attributed to Henri Maillardet. Made in early-19th century in Switzerland, it was titled "the Ethiopian caterpillar" when Maillardet, in partnership with Jaquet Droz, organized an exhibition to show off his menagerie of miniaturized automata in London, which dazzled the public.

Historical Pocket Watches soar, totalling an impressive CHF 2,266,500, to nearly double presale estimates Tonight's sale showed a groundswell of interest in pocket watches with historical resonance and decorative allure. This category - the subject of increasingly fierce competition in recent Sotheby's sales - secured b bids, bringing the combined total for pocket watches to CHF 2,226,500, well above the pre-sale estimations (CHF 1,321,500- 1,834,500/ US$ 1,350,950-1,874,300).
Highlighting the outstanding group of historic pieces were unique timekeepers and automata made for the Chinese and Turkish markets. Five bidders competed for a rare and exceptional pair of gold, enamel and hard stone centre seconds watch with split pearls made for the Chinese market, circa 1800. Estimated at CHF 80,000- 120,000, these two watches accompanied by their original keys (lot 135) fetched CHF 266,500 (US$ 273,560). This great result was no doubt sparked by the fact that this exquisite piece was made by William Ilbery, most commonly known as a fine maker of watches for the Chinese market and credited for rare examples made of moss agate such as this present example. Examples of Ilbery's extraordinary craftsmanship are exhibited worldwide, notably in the Patek Philippe Museum, Geneva.
Testament to the extraordinary craftsmanship and imagination behind the ornamental pieces made for the Turkish market, a fine and rare chronometer watch with date indication, made circa 1830 by Aug. Courvoisier & Cie, Chaux de Fonds realised CHF 62,500 (US$ 64,156) (lot 140). Estimated at CHF 15,000- 25,000, this exquisite timepiece depicts on the reverse the Cemetery of Eyup, Istanbul.
Antique pocket watches featured bly in the sale, covering four centuries from the 17th century to the 20th century. Among the highlights in the selection was a very fine and rare yellow gold and hardstone-set openfaced watch by Breguet, legendary Swiss watchmaker who counted among his most loyal clients Marie-Antoinette, Napoleon, the Queen of Naples and Russian Tsar Alexander I. Estimated at CHF 30,000-50,000, this watch (lot 161) sold for CHF 68,500 (US$ 70,315). Reflecting the originality, fine workmanship and elegance of Breguet's timepieces, this watch was decorated by Jean-Baptiste Fossin and his son Jules, predecessors of Chaumet, it was sold on 20 March 1839 to Madame la Generale Adadouroff.
Provenance and rarity triggered b competition for another historical time piece in the sale: a fine and rare gold perpetuelle, calendar dress watch no. 02/07, made circa 1925 by L. Leroy & Cie, Paris (lot 162). Estimated at CHF 20,000-30,000, this watch achieved CHF 45,000 (US$ 46,192). It remained in the hands of the original owner's family until now. This limited edition, of which seven examples were made, was purchased through Robert Darblay who commissioned them for himself and other members of his family.
Five bidders competed for one of the highlights of the 18th century pocket watches: a magnificent gold and agate quarter repeating verge watch with two matching chatelaine and necessaire, which sold for CHF 134,500 (US$ 138,063) (lot 121). Made circa 1760 by Cabrier, known as the 17th and 18th century French watchmaker of European monarchs and aristocracy, the lot was estimated at CHF 25,000-35,000.
Blue chip vintage and modern wristwatches perform well Bringing together an impressive range of timepieces charting the evolution of watchmaking from the 1620 to the present day, tonight's sale saw good performance for blue chip vintage and modern wristwatches, Following the success of Rolex wristwatches last May, a very rare stainless steel Rolex chronograph wristwatch with brown dial, registers and bracelet circa 1969 (ref. 6263/6239) oyster cosmograph "Paul Newman" (lot 104) realised CHF 464,500 (US$ 476,805), over five times its pre-sale high estimate of CHF 60,000 - 80,000. Among the rarity of its "Paul Newman" dial, the present watch is notable for its unusual signature featuring the Oyster on the third line after Rolex and Cosmograph and for its rare discoloured dial.
A rare stainless steel Rolex chronograph wristwatch with registers and dated circa 1966 (ref. 6263/6239) oyster cosmograph Daytona "Paul Newman" - one of the most celebrated models by the prestigious Swiss maker - fetched CHF 254,500 (US$ 261,242) (est. CHF 60,000 - 80,000) (lot 91), more than twice its pre-sale high estimate.
The celebrated Geneva-based watchmaker Patek Philippe was also widely represented in the sale: Lot 198, a fine and rare 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe open-faced minute repeating perpetual calendar watch with moon-phases (ref. 844 MVT 198397 case 314584) whose production began in 1930 and was completed in 1964 realised CHF 134,500 (US$ 138,603) (est. CHF 60,000-80,000), and lot 207, a rare 18k pink gold Patek Philippe chronograph wristwatch with two-tone dial, register and tachometer 1955 (REF 1463R MVT 868696 case 684704), which realised CHF 242,500 (US$ 248,924).
The sale also included a selection of vintage models by Cartier. Among them was a Cartier platinum curved rectangular bracelet watch circa 1930 Tank Cintree (lot 194) which fetched CHF 105,700 (US$ 108,500). Estimated CHF 30,000-50,000, this exaggerated and elegant Tank Allongee is a daring re-interpretation of the classic Tank shape, its closest relative in the Tank family being the Tank Louis Cartier. In Cartier: The Tank Watch, Franco Cologni describes the Tank Allongee as 'far and away the most categorical assertion of the rectangular form ever produced by Cartier, and in fact in the history of watch design.'

The results

Some of the world's foremost scientists, explorers, environmentalists, doctors and educators will gather in Lausanne, Switzerland, in November to honour the first five winners of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise: Young Laureates Programme.
The Young Laureates Programme seeks to foster a spirit of enterprise in the next generation by giving young people the financial support and recognition to tackle the challenges facing humanity with innovative projects.
More than 600 leading figures from Switzerland and around the world are expected to attend the Awards ceremony on 11 November 2010 at the new Rolex Learning Center at the Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne (EPFL), one of Europe's leading science and technology universities.

Polymath Brian Eno, the British record producer, composer, singer, multimedia artist and a noted technological innovator, will be the keynote speaker at the ceremony. Long concerned with the future of society and the global environment, he will talk about the relationship between science and the arts.
The Young Laureates, all aged between 18 and 30, are: Jacob Colker from the United States, Reese Fernandez from the Philippines, Nnaemeka Ikegwuonu from Nigeria, Piyush Tewari from India and Bruktawit Tigabu from Ethiopia. Their projects range from transforming volunteering for the 21st century to enabling impoverished women to create eco-ethical fashion goods, from developing interactive radio in order to promote sustainable farming, to training volunteers to provide rapid care to road accident victims and developing TV programmes to improve children's health.
"On the occasion of the Awards ceremony, Rolex is taking the opportunity to showcase both the winners and their visionary projects and to foster intellectual exchange between them and some of the best thinkers from Switzerland and abroad," said Rebecca Irvin, head of the Rolex Institute, the company's philanthropic and educational arm. "Our ultimate goal is to encourage an enterprising spirit among under-30s worldwide and to stimulate innovation in the region in order to help ensure a better future for the next generation."
An inspiring programme
To coincide with this celebration, from 9 to 11 November, Rolex and the EPFL are co-hosting a series of presentations encompassing the theme of innovation. All of these activities are designed to facilitate the exchange of ideas among the Young Laureates and international guests, including more than 40 former Rolex Awards Laureates and Jury members, as well as the 22 Young Laureate finalists and EPFL faculty members and students.
As part of the interaction between the young Rolex entrepreneurs and the EPFL community, visits are being organized to two of the university's groundbreaking research labs: the Blue Brain Project, the first-ever attempt to reproduce fully a biologically accurate digital model of a mammal's brain in order to understand brain function and dysfunction; and the Global Health Institute, created to contribute to the understanding, prevention and treatment of infectious diseases. In addition, there will be presentations of the university's landmark research in areas such as health and diagnostics, and water and sustainability.
"We are honoured to co-host the ceremony and to welcome the young innovators and other Rolex guests to our campus," said Adrienne Corboud Fumagalli, vice president of Innovation and Technology Transfer at EPFL and a member of the 2010 Young Laureates Jury. "The EPFL wants to stimulate entrepreneurship among students, and the Rolex Young Laureates Programme is a great match for us."
Rolex Young Laureates Programme
An expansion of the long-standing Rolex Awards for Enterprise, the Young Laureates Programme, launched in January 2009, honours men and women between the ages of 18 and 30 with inventive ideas to solve tomorrow's challenges in science and health, applied technology, exploration, the environment and cultural preservation. Each Young Laureate receives US$50,000 over the course of two years, giving the winners time to focus on their pioneering projects and move forward in implementing them. The Rolex Awards international network of innovators, comprised of former Laureates and Jury members, is available for guidance.

The Young Laureates Programme complements the original Rolex Awards for Enterprise, which will be held again in 2012 and for which applications are already open (rolexawards.com).
The five Young Laureates in the inaugural Rolex Awards for Enterprise: Young Laureates programme are:
Jacob Colker, 26, United States - is changing the way people get involved in community service. His internet-based programme allows volunteers to use their smartphones to donate spare minutes to charitable and scientific organizations.
Reese Fernandez, 25, Philippines - is committed to alleviating poverty by training people to become social entrepreneurs. Her Rags2Riches enterprise has already empowered hundreds of women to earn a living by turning scrap materials into elegant fashion accessories.
Nnaemeka Ikegwuonu, 27, Nigeria - intends to boost the living standards of millions of Nigerian farmers through his interactive, mobile radio network. Hundreds of thousands of rural listeners are already receiving and exchanging information on sustainable farming practices and health issues.
Piyush Tewari, 29, India - has set up a foundation to train a network of police officers and volunteers to respond quickly to road accidents and administer rapid medical care. By providing immediate assistance to victims, he hopes to stem the thousands of fatalities that occur on Indian roads each year.
Bruktawit Tigabu, 28, Ethiopia - is building on the success of a television programme on health that she and her husband are producing for preschool children and their parents.

WORLDTEMPUS - 25 June 2010

Despite the final statement of my last Chronicle, these connoisseur collectors all end up owning a Rolex again at some point. So if you are in the ascending stage of your collecting career and are tempted to branch out from your Rolexes and Omegas, hang onto at least one of your Rolexes…you'll want it back someday—I guarantee it. And it will probably be that Submariner that you once thought was uncool because everybody has one. It's with good reason everyone has one: it might just be THE watch to have if you can only have one watch.

The first watch that I loved, but never owned, was the Revue Thommen Airspeed chronograph outfitted with the Lemania 5100 movement. I did pick up the Cricket with the copper-colored dial from Revue Thommen, which is an excellent and affordable alarm watch, but I have never owned the original Airspeed chronograph. Revue Thommen has been a manufacturer of industrial and airplane instrument gauges for more than 150 years. In the early to mid-1900s, the company discovered that its skill in making gauges transferred nicely to making military and pilot's watches, both of which required the same legibility and technical excellence that the company prided itself on in its airplane instruments. In fact, the crystal on the Airspeed chronographs is so clear that the watch looks like it has no crystal at all. The Airspeed chronograph is still offered, now outfitted with a Valjoux 7750 movement, and it looks much the same as the original model, which—not coincidentally—looks just like the clocks in many airplane cockpits.

The Glycine Airman is a dual-time (actually displaying three time zones), 24-hour dial watch that became well known after many U.S. Air Force pilots returned home from Vietnam wearing one. I don't believe the watch was ever issued as a military watch, but the Airman offered a simple, intuitive dial and time interface that made tracking local, UTC, and a third time zone easy. Glycine has extended the Airman lineup considerably over the years, and, in fact, Glycine has evolved into having a most interesting and diverse model lineup—all while offering economic pricing and great quality. The Glycine Airman is a gap that I closed, having owned several of these historical watches over the years.

WORLDTEMPUS - 14 June 2010

"It's not Tiffany's, it's NASA," Mille leaned over and told me at lunch in the President's Room at the Queens Club in London, where he had gathered a few business partners and journalists to watch the semifinals of the Aegon Queens Club tournament in London. The idea was to cheer on his sponsored player, world number one Rafael Nadal, in the semifinals—but Nadal had lost the previous day in the quarters to fellow young Spaniard Feliciano Lopez. The clever saying Mille repeated to me was actually nicked from Miguel Seabra, Portuguese watch journalist and tennis commentator for Eurosport. Seabra had coined the phrase during the French Open the previous week to aid in explaining the significance of the obvious black watch Nadal wears on court to his tennis colleagues from the press. Nadal and the watch have been experiencing heavy critique for the RM 027 RN's price tag of $525,000—a price that can certainly seem exorbitant to the casual spectator.

Indeed, this is an unusually high fee for a watch with no bling even in the watch industry, but Mille explained that the price was actually justified as it is outfitted with a tourbillon and—particularly—it has needed thousands of hours of development as well as a trial-and-error period on court with Nadal for almost three-quarters of a year to discover its weak points, correct them, and make the watch light enough for wear on court (it weights 13 grams without strap and 18 with the rubber attachment). To achieve this lightness and continue to ensure the accurate functioning of model RM 027 RN a number of new materials new to the watchmaking industry such as LITAL, an alloy of aluminum, lithium, copper, magnesium and zirconium, were used. This alloy is also utilized in the aerospace industry—on the Airbus A380; in helicopters, rockets and satellites—and in Formula 1 racecars. Using materials outside the established watch industry like this is a Richard Mille specialty. The company's previous partnership with Formula 1 driver Felipe Massa helped research its extreme style of watchmaking in much the same way.
"This is an extreme object," Mille describes Nadal's watch. "Divide all the R&D plus all the test watches needed by the fifty pieces that are available in the limited edition, and that is about the price that comes out," he explained to me during the Queens tournament. "Whatever I have to invest , is what I invest."

WORLDTEMPUS - 19 April 2010

I decided to extend my annual trip to Geneva's S.I.H.H. in January and visit any car buff's Holy Grails: the Porsche and Mercedes Benz museums in Stuttgart as well as a personal tour through the AMG factory in Affalterbach. I was actually welcomed there with a proudly displayed American flag—now that's attention to detail. As if that wasn't enough, I ventured on to partake in the Mercedes AMG Winter Driving event in Arjeplog, Sweden, and a few weeks later the Porsche Ice Force in Ivalo, Finland.

The experience was incredible: the Mercedes AMG E63, C63 and SLK55 and the Cayman S, 911 C2S, C4S, Turbo and Panamera 4S are all equipped with studded winter tires to gain traction on the giant frozen lakes' endless tracks. I basically drove sideways from 9:30 am until 5:00 pm for three days straight, only interrupted by coffee breaks and sumptuous lunches with 40 other car enthusiasts from all over the world.
Being in the watch business, I thought it would also be a great opportunity to test a few of the world's best sports watches under these frigid conditions—so I left a Rolex Deepsea, an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, a Panerai Marina Diver, and our very own limited edition Wempe Zeitmeister ceramic chronograph outside overnight at -24°F. Needless to say, I slept a little uneasy having watches worth over $55,000 lying in the snow on my balcony unattended, but then again, nobody would have suspected these kinds of treasures there either.

This was an experiment I wouldn't have dared to pull off in New York. All watches performed well, by the way, and even the rubber straps survived the night in the cold without becoming brittle. As for the driving experience, it was exhilarating and certainly has greatly increased my car control skills. We kept the Porsche Cayenne and Mercedes ML drivers busy as we overshot corners and turns just to find ourselves in two feet of snow.
The beautiful thing was that you couldn't get hurt or damage the cars. I'm not quite ready to initiate the drift with the brake when I turn on Fifth Avenue into 55th Street in front of the Wempe store, but it sure is tempting.

WORLDTEMPUS - 20 March 2010
It could have been an uneasy herd of impatient fans prior to a rock concert about to start for onlookers that did not have an interest in horology, but just happened to stroll by Hall 1 in Basel. However the impatient herds of bloggers, collectors and journalists did not wait for a big-ticket name in the music business to go on stage, but for a ditto in Swiss horology, Rolex, to reveal its novelties.
Every year watch related websites start discussing what the leader of Swiss watch making might introduce of novelties once the doors open. Yet nobody knows for sure, since Rolex is as secretive with their novelties as their Oyster-cases are waterproof.

This year, however, the introduction of a steel Submariner with maxi case and ceramic bezel insert was not much of a surprise. Such is the evolution of Rolex. Gold first, then steel/gold and now steel. The "aaaaahhhh" reaction did arise though, when the first impatient souls reached the mirror polished exhibition windows on Wednesday March 17th, when Baselworld opened its doors. The surprise reaction was due to a green dial and ditto ceramic bezel version of the Submariner of steel that paired up next to the black version at Rolex's impressive stand.

Green may not be a colour embraced as joyfully by everyone as the Irish on St. Patrick's Day. This could be why Rolex decided to introduced a 39 millimetres version of what could easily be considered as one of the best looking models of all time, the legendary Explorer. A watch famed by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay's Mt. Everest exhibition in 1953. Both of them wore Rolex Oyster Perpetuals, creating yet another achievement for the Swiss watch company who used the world as a laboratory to test its watches under real conditions, since the young Mercedes Gleitze swam across the English Channel, wearing a Rolex Oyster, in 1927.

The clean military look of the Explorer has not changed. But the new size of 39 millimetre - which is three millimetre bigger that the earlier version, ref. 114720 - is a perfect reason to rediscover a watch that has too long been considered too small for men and too masculine for women. This said, many women might just embrace this new size Explorer, as big watches are still popular on female wrists.

Fresh, refined and elegant. Fitting descriptions of the gracefully feminine new Rolesor models in the Oyster Perpetual Datejust Lady 31 mm collection.
An ode to passion and sensuality, these delicate gems for daily wear are an invitation to share in their carefree youthfulness. They celebrate with brio the marriage of their materials — precious stones, 18 ct gold and 904L steel — and colours.

Wide range of dials
These new Lady 31 mm models in yellow, white and Everose Rolesor are available with a wide range of dials and decors. The floral motifs on the dark rhodium, and champagne and pink dials are produced using an electroforming technique, a very subtle deposition of material that reproduces the design with extreme precision. These visually attractive motifs give pleasing volume to the dial.

Fluted and gem-set bezels
The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Lady 31mmis available with either a fluted bezel or domed bezel set with 24 or 46 brilliants, reflecting the slightly rebellious and mischievous side of the pieces with a hint of intrigue.

Gem-set 6 o'clock hour marker
The gem-set Roman numeral hour marker at 6 o'clock adds a fascinating, singular touch to a watch that makes every minute an escape from time.
The timeless lightness of this Lady 31 mm should not obscure the extreme precision of its mechanical self-winding movement with a Perpetual rotor.
The lady can thus return at any time to the world of the present and live the moment to the fullest.

Antiquorum's upcoming 35th anniversary sale on November 14th & 15th in Geneva is rapidly approaching and collectors can look forward to bidding on a wide variety of spectacular timepieces. Highlighting the auction is the world's most complicated and highly coveted timepiece - the famous Patek Philippe Calibre 89. In addition, there will be over 300 exceptional modern and vintage timepieces offered in the Antiquorum sale to be held at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva. Prior to the auction, clients can preview these outstanding watches in Shanghai, Hong Kong, and Geneva.
Lot 364

Antiquorum is delighted to offer the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 from the Matsuda Collection - the world's most complicated timepiece with a total of 33 complications - in our 35th anniversary sale on November 14th and 15th. As this extraordinary timepiece is rarely seen at auction, this is an exceptional opportunity for collectors to acquire one of the most important timepieces in existence. Only four unique models of the Calibre 89 were ever produced; one each in yellow, pink and white gold and one in platinum. The present Calibre 89 in yellow gold was previously sold by Antiquorum in our April 9, 1989 sale of "The Art of Patek Philippe" to commemorate the 150th anniversary of Patek Philippe; while the Calibre 89 in white gold was sold in our 30th anniversary sale on April 24th, 2004.
Lot 361

Moreover, for the Patek aficionado, there is a Patek Philippe "Officier Repetitions Minutes," Ref. 5029. This exceptional timepiece was made in a limited edition of 10 examples in 1998 to commemorate the inauguration of the new Patek Philippe manufactory in Geneva. Sold September 25th, 1998, it is a very fine and extremely rare, minute-repeating, self-winding, 18K yellow gold chronometer wristwatch.
Lot 335

Another incredible Patek Philippe timepiece being offered is the Patek Philippe Ref. 2497 with luminous black dial. Produced in 1955 and sold on June 8th, 1962, this outstanding timepiece is an extremely fine and equally rare, center-seconds, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar, and moon phases.
Lot 362

Additionally, a Patek Philippe "Minute Repeater", Ref. 3979 will be on the auction block. Made in 1998, it is a very fine and rare, minute repeating, self-winding, 18K yellow gold wristwatch.
Lot 185

Also included in the November sale is the Patek Philippe Ref. 3990. This exceptional and rare watch was produced circa 2000 and is now no longer in production. It is a very fine and important, astronomic, water-resistant, platinum and diamonds gentleman's wristwatch with round button chronograph, register, perpetual calendar, moon phases and sapphire crystal back.
Lot 187

In addition, there will also be a Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 with pulsometer scale offered in the upcoming sale. The exquisite watch was produced in 1953, and sold on March 7th, 1955. It is an extremely fine and very rare, water-resistant, 18K pink gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, 30-minute register and pulsometer scale graduated for 15 pulsations.
Lot 358

Furthermore, a Patek Philippe Ref. 1436 retailed by Tiffany will be amongst the highlights in the November sale. Made circa 1969, it is an extremely fine and rare, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with square button, co-axial split-seconds chronograph, 30-minute register and tachometer.
Lot 352

Also for the Patek Philippe enthusiast, there is the Patek Philippe Re. 2481 with tropics cloisonne dial. This remarkable timepiece was produced in 1954 and sold on October 2nd, 1956. It is an extremely fine and equally rare, center-seconds, 18K pink gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel "Tropics" dial.
Lot 278

Fans of Richard Mille will want to bid on the Richard Mille "Tourbillon RM0003". This superb timepiece is a two-time zone, 18K white gold wristwatch with visible one-minute tourbillon regulator.

Lot 298

Another rare and sought after timepiece included in the sale is the Audemars Piguet dress watch retailed by Gubelin. This superb timepiece is a 18k white gold and enamel watch with perpetual calendar, minute repeater and split second second chronograph.
Lot 346

An additional extraordinary watch with cloisonne dial offered is the Rolex Ref. 6100, "Galleon Cloissone Dial." Produced in 1952, it is an exceptionally rare and fine, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel galleon dial .
Estimate:****

Auction Previews:
The timepieces of this auction will be on view as follows:
• SHANGHAI
November 3 & 4:
10:30 a.m. - 6:30 p.m.
Antiquorum Shanghai
Room 4106B,
Bund Centre Office Tower,
222 Yan An Road East,
Shanghai 200002, China
Tel.+86 21 6335 1268
• HONG KONG
November 6 & 7:
11:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Antiquorum Auctioneers (HK) Ltd.
Suite 1405, 9 Queen's Rd. Central,
Hong Kong, China
Tel. + 852 2522 4168

• GENEVA
November 12 to 15:
10:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Antiquorum's Showroom
2, rue du Mont-Blanc
1201 Geneva, Switzerland
Tel.+ 41 (0)22 909 28 50
Auction:
First Session: Saturday, November 14 (lots 1 - 187) begins at 3:00 p.m.
Second Session: Sunday, November 15 (lots 188 - 364) begins 3:00 p.m.

23rd July 2009 - www.fratellowatches.com

As a watch aficionado, I am very thankful to the initiators of the early online communities like WatchUseek and TimeZone. Not only for providing so much information on watches in an era (late 1990s) that wasn't as advanced as it is now (with all the web 2.0 initiatives like Facebook, LinkedIn and of course watch portals like WorldTempus), but also for the many watch friends it brought.

Post-2003, watch forums have been popping up like mushrooms and everybody seems to have his/her own preferences. Besides the giants mentioned before, there are several low-profile forums focused on just a few or even one single brand. The advantage of these smaller communities is that the crowd knows each other, laid back tone of voice and fewer rules than at the larger watch communities. However, a new member can easily think he ended up in a digital Cheers bar ("where everybody knows your name."). Also, the downside of a smaller watch community is that the learning curve becomes less and less steep after a while. Discussions will probably end-up in joking around instead of watch content. Content is king, but you will need enough traffic to keep it alive and interesting.

One of the watch communities that have gained great respect amongst collectors and aficionados is the German based R-L-X forum, also known as 'Das Rolex Forum'. Although German based, there are a few subforums available in English, so everybody is able to participate in this community. There is a lot of knowledge in this forum, and the tone of voice is very friendly. It is actually so friendly, that it seems that a lot of members have become personal friends. Looking in their Get-ToGether subforum, you'll see that there are almost monthly meetings across all of (mainly) Germany and Austria.

I think that R-L-X left off where the famous Paneristi community ended. The Paneristi forums have been on-line for quite some years now, and it is a great community, but it seems that technology-wise, they didn't improve. There is only little interaction on building a b knowledge base and just minor efforts to keep up with new technology and web applications. However, if you are interested in Panerai watches, it is definitely the place to start.
Regardless of your preference for certain watch brands or types (dive-/pilot-/military watches etc.), our common interest in them enables us to create great platforms to share knowledge and even more important, share our passion with each other. Since those first days at the online watch communities, I have made great friends throughout the years. Not only people in my own country, but from all around the globe. Wherever I go in the world, there seems to be always another watch aficionado in my network of watch friends who offers me a coffee, beer or even diner. I think this is the best part of being a watch nut, sharing passion with a lot of (different) people.
I can't imagine collecting watches would be as fun as it is now without sharing the passion through online communities!

22 June 2009
- www.fratellowatches.com
I don't consider myself a collector of watches, I just 'collect' what I will actually be wearing. I had a modest collection of new & vintage Omega watches in the past, but I traded most of them for watches that would actually see some daylight every now and then instead of the inside of a safe.  
For me, this results in buying 'iconic' watches most of the time. True classics in terms of design, movement, history or a combination of all these aspects. For example, these icons include the Omega Speedmaster Professional, Rolex GMT-Master and (recently added) the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Michael Balfour wrote a nice book about iconic timepieces called ' Cult Watches'. Of course, some people may think differently on what an iconic timepiece may be. I can imagine that there are watch aficionados who consider an Ikepod Cunningham or a Bell & Ross BR01 to be cult watches as well.

Anyway, in the 10 years I have been buying or collecting timepieces, I always envied the people that just have one watch. Like the guy in the Patek Philippe advertisements, having a nice Patek Nautilus ref. 5711/1A, wear it almost a life time and then pass it on to the next generation (or someone else you love or care for). And in the beginning, I actually thought that an Omega Constellation would be my perfect "only watch". Or my Speedmaster Professional. Or my Rolex Sea-Dweller. Although I was able to wear a timepieces for months in a row, it turned out that I kept rotating timepieces from my collection (or buying new/other ones).

On some of the online watch forums, contributors tend to write about their latest acquisition as being their exit watch. By exit watch, they mean that they finally found their "only watch". Of course, after a while you see the same contributors adding a message that they bought something else or something new. To quote Michael Corleone in The Godfather part III, "Just when I thought I was out... they pull me back in."
Let me tell you this: There is no exit watch. At least, not for us watch addicts. An Omega Speedmaster Professional could be a perfect only watch. Or a Rolex GMT-Master. Or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. For a lot of people, they probably are. But we are spoiled. We complain about having no date on a Speedmaster Professional, the Royal Oak being a scratch magnet, the GMT-Master for not being as water resistant as a Sea-Dweller. It is rubbish. Normal people probably don't even come up with these lame excuses.
Would finding a new passion be a solution (or an excuse to only have one watch)? I guess not, because as soon as the word 'collect' comes in, you are lost… It doesn't matter what the subject will be.

Created sixty years ago, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust Rolesor is the world's most recognized and recognizable watch, if not the standard-bearer of an art de vivre. Impervious to the vagaries of fashion, it remains eternally modern. And the new Datejust II Rolesor for men and the Datejust Rolesor 36 mm for ladies, with gem-set bezel, are the proof.
Subtly redesigned over time, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust Rolesor, archetype of timeless luxury, embraces all the latest watchmaking innovations to meet the most demanding technological requirements.
The history of this must-have masterpiece of contemporary watchmaking is rooted in the rich heritage of Rolex timepieces. It is the fruit of the Oyster, the first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex in 1926. The movement of the watch receives its energy from the Perpetual rotor, the first self-winding mechanism with a free rotor, created in 1931. The Datejust made its debut in 1945, its name inspired by the date displayed in a window on the watch dial.
The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Rolesor is the hallmark of the Rolex brand. Precise, waterproof, self-winding, this officially-certified Swiss chronometer with date display is crafted with only the noblest of materials and assembled with the greatest of care.

Revue FH - February 26 2009 - N# 4

Rolex has announced a new initiative to expand its international philanthropic programme to fund young pioneers and their groundbreaking projects around the world. In early 2010, the company will name the first five recipients of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise: Young Laureates Programme, honouring men and women between the ages of 18 and 30 with inventive ideas to solve tomorrow's challenges in science and health, applied technology, exploration, the environment and cultural preservation. Award recipients will each receive a US$50,000 cash prize to enable them to pursue an original project. Equally important, they will join the network of Rolex specialists and innovators who can offer invaluable expertise and guidance.
The Young Laureates Programme is an expansion of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, which were established in 1976. The inaugural Rolex Awards commemorated the 50th anniversary of the Oyster chronometer, the world's first waterproof watch, and were created to encourage individuals ready to take on major challenges to benefit humankind and the environment. Since 1976, 110 Rolex Awards for Enterprise have been presented to Laureates and Associate Laureates from 40 countries, implementing projects in more than 60 countries. Recent winners include a social activist who has developed an affordable strategy to build housing for the rural poor using recycled materials in her native Paraguay (Elsa Zaldivar); a Scottish physicist who created a breakthrough method to predict volcanic eruptions via an unmanned helicopter (Andrew McGonigle); and a Jordanian chemist working to save the ancient archaeological site of Petra (Talal Akasheh).
«Rolex has a history of supporting individual excellence and achievement,» said Rebecca Irvin, director of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise. «By providing project support at a critical juncture in the careers of young people, the Young Laureates Programme will reward bright new ideas and encourage the next generation to meet the challenges of the future.» Like the original Rolex Awards, the Young Laureates Programme will act as a springboard for men and women who use their creativity to improve life on the planet.
«As our world becomes more interdependent and grows more complex, young people must bring new perspectives and fresh approaches to tackling our greatest challenges,» said Gilbert Grosvenor, Chairman of the National Geographic Society and a past jury member for the Rolex Awards for Enterprise. «Particularly in this era of global change and uncertainty, the Young Laureates Programme represents a vital investment in the brightest thinkers of tomorrow.»
To find young people around the world determined to carry out projects with a significant impact, a range of institutions, organizations and individuals will be invited to nominate potential candidates. Those who accept the nomination will complete an application form that explains the scope, goals and feasibility of their projects. An independent jury will select five individuals with b potential to advance human knowledge and well-being.
Each winner will receive the $50,000 prize over the course of two years. Funding of $25,000 each in the first year will give the Young Laureates the time to bring greater focus to their projects; the second instalment of $25,000 will propel the projects forward. Rolex may also provide additional support to the Young Laureates to pursue a related activity that will add further value to their work.
The Young Laureates Programme complements the original Rolex Awards for Enterprise, it does not replace it. In 2010, five Young Laureates will be selected; in 2012, five Laureates and five Associate Laureates will again be chosen. The two variations of the programme will thus alternate every two years.
Rolex's other global philanthropic programme, the Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative, also reflects an ongoing commitment to promoting excellence in the next generation. The Arts Initiative brings together emerging artists with re-cognized masters for a year of one-to-one collaboration in music, dance, literature, theatre, film and the visual arts.
Both the Arts Initiative and the Young Laureates Programme provide the gift of time to exceptional young people at a key moment in their professional lives. Through Rolex's support, these promising individuals are able to take their work to a new level and contribute to their surrounding communities and the wider world.