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Top Quality Rolex Automatic Watches (2164) Items
Top Quality Rolex Automatic Watches (2164) Items

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  • Watch auctions - Phillips appoints Paul Maudsley

    Renowned watch expert Paul Maudsley has joined Phillips as International Specialist, Director of the London Watches Department. He is credited with transforming the UK watch market and has handled over 20,000 watches in his 16-year career, which equates to one and a half watches every working hour of every working day over that period.

    Maudsley has been collecting watches from the age of 13 and has thus developed a love and broad knowledge of horology. Organising watch auctions on three continents, Paul has been responsible for sourcing some of the finest quality timepieces in the world. He has a well-known passion for Rolex sports watches and has a great knowledge of the many different models and variations produced, setting numerous records for such pieces at auction.

    Aurel Bacs, senior consultant says: "We warmly welcome Paul Maudsley to the team and look forward to working with him on the lead up to our sales this fall on 7 and 8 November in Geneva and our inaugural watch auction in Hong Kong taking place on 1 December. Our existing team of passionate specialists has already demonstrated their strength with the outstanding results from the May auctions in Geneva and will further benefit from Paul's knowledge and expertise."

    Paul joins Phillips international team of Watch Specialists including Kate Lacey, Specialist based in London, Paul Boutros, International Strategy Advisor in New York and Jill Chen, Business Development Director, based in Phillips' Hong Kong office which opens in August.

  • Auctions - Interview with Edward Dolman


    I was lucky enough to work with Aurel Bacs at Christie's and I recognize his particular position in the marketplace. He is an extraordinary expert and a trusted advisor to most of the top watch collectors in the world. So when I found out that he was thinking of setting up his own company I thought we should have a conversation. Because I want to build up an auction house at Phillips that builds on what we have already established and looks at specific areas of the market and attempts to be the best it possibly can.


    I am determined to set the highest possible standards and Phillips has just opened a new sales room at Berkley Square in London which has had a similar sort of impact because it gives us a viewing capability that is unmatched by any of the traditional auction houses in London. It is spectacular and it gives an idea of our aspirations and the standards we are setting. We want to offer the best environment for people to sell and buy in.


    We are currently developing a spectacular space in Geneva for our auctions and brokerage business, about which we will be making some announcements in the coming weeks. But we definitely feel that an important part of our business will be private brokerage and auctions. What we are hoping is to become the trusted brokerage at the top end of the watch business.

      
    It will be important. We can offer the key watch collectors the best possible service and the best possible access to watches. The brokerage and private sale side of the business will allow us to develop this kind of relationship and give people opportunities that they might not otherwise get. It's a key part of our business plan.


    Yes, over the next couple of years, possibly as soon as November in Hong Kong, we will roll out a series of auctions worldwide. The final auction plan will be Geneva, Hong Kong, New York and London.


    We have set ourselves some aspirational goals. We want to lead the market in vintage watches but at the high end. We are not about volume and we will be dealing with relatively low volumes but high values. Who knows how we will stack up against our competitors? They may decide to go into a much higher volume, low value business. Actually, you can see that already and we think this is the wrong way to go and we are going in the opposite direction and I think it is the right strategy for us.


    I believe generally for Phillips that we need to give clients more choice and I think we will make a big impact.

    I am always amazed at how low some of the estimates are and how well they compare with retail. If you look at some of the watches in the Rolex Day-Date sale they are below today's retail price, so to someone thinking about buying a watch this is an interesting alternative to buying from a jewellers. The watch may well maintain its value better than a new watch.


    I have a small collection but coincidentally one of the watches I don't have is a Rolex Day-Date, so this is the perfect opportunity for me and there are a number in the sale that I like. Aurel always manages to get a bid out of me somehow.

     
    No, we are allowed to bid but the way we do it is governed in a special way. We have to leave bids in writing before the sale. 

  • Newsletter - The Swiss Made watchdog

    Our Venezuelan contributor Rafael Fernandez was astonished at the efficiency of the Swiss customs when he arrived at Zurich airport to cover Baselworld. He and his wife were politely screened at the airport and asked whether they were carrying any watches. Like any self-respecting watch journalist, Rafael had brought with him a small collection to last him through the show, which he offered for inspection. He was impressed when the customs official could instantly tell from the serial number of his Rolex that it had indeed been shipped originally to his home country of Venezuela.

    Last week I discovered that this highly knowledgeable "customs inspector" was in fact one of the Swiss Watchmaking Industry Federation's team of roving experts, who were stationed at the cargo and passenger terminals at Basel and Zurich airports and prowling the halls of Baselworld during the show, looking for violations of the Swiss Made label, misleading customs declarations and breaches of trademark law. With the kind permission of the Federation Horlogere we have just reproduced the detailed report on this highly coordinated surveillance operation.

    We also delve behind the scenes of another story this week, as Olivier Muller reveals the secret history of Carl F. Bucherer's Patravi TravelTec model, which ultimately led to the brand becoming a genuine manufacture. The leading figures of the industry continue to share their thoughts with WorldTempus. After today's profile of Longines CEO Walter von Känel, Bulgari's Guido Terreni and Romain Gauthier take the floor later on this week.

  • Foreword - A quarter-century in resolutely feminine mode

    Exuding a free-spirited, independent, impetuous, innovative, welcoming, soft, comfortable and elegant aura for the past 25 years, the SIHH certainly qualifi es for a number of adjectives typically associated with the fair sex. The SIHH will be celebrating its quarter- century in January 2015, and like countless other women, it has left an indelible imprint on the measurement of time.

    Women have constantly and variously served as the poet's secret muse, the artist's precious inspiration, the politician's wise advisor or the musician's perceptive shadow. They have occupied a prime role in History, whether in the spotlight or in the background, consistently exercising authentic infl uence, whether deliberately or not. Nor should one forget that women have been, still are and always will be the great civilizing power in the world! Horology is no exception to the rule and its history has been regularly punctuated by women. The latter notably inspired wristwatches and were the fi rst to wear them : from Elizabeth I of England to the dainty jewelry models of the Directory and Empire periods, right the way through to Mercedes Gleitze who swam across the channel with a Rolex Oyster watch on her wrist.

    Today, if "woman is the future of man" as the French poet Aragon famously proclaimed in 1952, women's watches are undoubtedly the future of the watch itself. 25 years ago, in taking on the seemingly crazy challenge of creating the fi rst show dedicated to Fine Watchmaking in Geneva, the cradle of the industry, the SIHH endowed Haute Horlogerie with its authentically global dimension. Ever since, year after year, it has been setting the tone for watch trends, catalyzing ceaselessly renewed and perpetuated innovations, expertise and skills. It is endowed with a unique ability to unite, to share, to love and to spread the love. Because the SIHH is feminine to the core !
    Fabienne Lupo
    Chairwoman and Managing Director of the SIHH

  • Colas - Watchmaking and the ventral striatum

    Recent scientific research conducted by German psychologists looked at the manner in which the brands condition, stimulate and influence our brains and therefore the manner in which we perceive reality. How do brands affect our brains and how also do incorrect information on the brands in question alter our perception right into the furthest recesses of our neuronal cavity. These are the questions that were asked by researchers Simone Kuhn and Jurgen Galllinat.
    Learnedly entitled "Does Taste Matter? How Anticipation of Cola Brands Influences Gustatory Processing in the Brain", their very serious experiment involved having MRI scans conducted on some 15 people (all perfectly sane, with no particular neurological or medical history, explain the researchers who also emphasise that "they were all right-handed" - doubtless because in left-handed people, the brain lobes are the other way round). Two specific areas of the brain were targeted: the orbitofrontal cortices, the home of subjective thought that given to different products one sees, and the ventral striatum, the area connected to reward and pleasure. An area which, as we will see, can "light up" at the slightest mention of a known brand, suggesting all the promises of "pleasure" that it is supposed to bring us.
     

    The MRI guinea pigs were given four samples of a cola drink through a tube for them to give their opinion of each sample on a scale from 1 to 8. However these samples were not anonymous - and prior to each ingestion (repeated several times in different quantities), the logo of the brand was quickly shown on a screen: Coke, Pepsi, River Cola (a cheap brand that is well-known in Germany) and an imaginary T-Cola. To reinforce the guinea-pigs' belief, they were allowed to see four large syringes, all different, duly labelled with the name of the various brands.
    Unsurprisingly, Coke and Pepsi won the vote hands down, leaving the other brands streets behind. Certain participants, the study explains, even express their b preference for Coke and Pepsi and their dislike of other brands. The glitch? The four mixtures were perfectly identical, and all strictly composed of a mixture of Coke, Pepsi, River and T in equal parts.

    The result of the MRI scan showed that the orbitofrontal cortex where worth is evaluated was less used in the case of well-known or recognised brands, because this worth is retained and accepted in our connections. If one transposes this into the realm of watchmaking, one could say that on the scale of watchmaking brands, the orbitofrontal cortex does not need to get involved when it hears the word "Rolex", but will work overtime at the sound of the brand "Von Graffenried & Cousins", for example.
    On the other hand, the ventral striatum which is the centre of reward and pleasure becomes active at the very name of a known brand - while it remains completely "silent" when it comes to unknown brands. Brands therefore have the power to arouse those neurones responsible for pleasure, reward and satisfaction to the point of preventive titillation.
     


    Continuing with the methodology used in the cola experience, could one apply the same research methods to watchmaking? This would not be about tasting an undetermined liquid, but rather for example being given a chance to discover the most recent model of a brand in an exclusive sneak preview.
    We might thus manufacture a watch representing a hybrid of several different models, including for example an Omega case, with a Rolex bezel, an Ice-Watch dial, Von Grafenried & Cousins pushers and Rochat & Meylan hands...The movement, also a perfect hybrid, could be presented as a Patek Philippe or alternatively a movement made in Shenzen and the strap leather as being made by Hermes or imported from Albania.
    The consumers undergoing the MRI would be told that they were going to be given an exclusive presentation of a brand new Rolex, Omega, Rochat-Meylan, Boomtime or Von Grafenried & Cousins model, a claim borne out by the logos on the watch.
    What do you think the result would be? How, for example, would the ventral striatum react to the announcement of a totally new Von Grafenried & Cousins model? Probably a scientifically measurable flat encephalogram, whereas on the contrary, one might well imagine that the very mention of the upcoming discovery of a brand-new Rolex model would trigger a whole host of neurones - especially among bloggers, whose ventral striatum would quite likely start performing a belly dance!
    Poor us!
    We thought that only our sacrosanct "free will" determined our choices and our intimate desires, but this does not appear to be the case. Something like Pavlov's dog which started salivating and slobbering simply when it heard the bell ringing signalling its food - and even if the food never appeared again - we unconsciously vibrate and get excited at the mere thought of promised pleasures that for most of us will always be unattainable.
     

  • Christie's - Important Watches

    On 13 May 2013, Christie's Geneva will present its Spring auction of Important Watches. The sale is expected to achieve in excess of US$15 million.

    Christie's is particularly proud to announce the highlight of the sale: a newly rediscovered, historically important and probably unique, white gold, perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases and leap-year, ref. 3448, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1981, which carries a pre-sale estimate of SFr.800,000-1,400,000 (US$850,000-1,500,000/ €670,000-1,200,000).

    The rich and varied catalogue will also include the most valuable and historically important selection of vintage Rolex wristwatches ever to be offered in a Christie's auction, highlighted by an extraordinarily rare, oversized stainless steel split seconds chronograph wristwatch, ref. 4113, manufactured in 1942 (estimate: SFr.700,000-1,200,000 / US$740,000-1,300,000/ €590,000-1,000,000). Christie's is international market leader in the field of vintage Rolex wristwatches.

    Aurel Bacs, International Director of Christie's Watch Department: „The upcoming Geneva sale is a treat for scholars, historians and collectors, but most importantly for all those with a passion for the highest quality collector's watches. I can hardly remember an auction featuring over 100 Patek Philippe watches and, simultaneously, also offering over 100 of the world's finest and rarest Rolex timepieces. These two celebrated Geneva names are the most recognized in the field of wristwatch collecting and for the market this auction promises to be the main event in Europe this coming season. Our team of specialists has applied unforgivingly rigid standards when hand-selecting the finest watches from the world's most important private collections. We are also very proud to offer numerous significant watches, never before shown or offered publicly, directly from the original owner's families. With estimates ranging from SFr.1,000 to over SFr.1,000,000, the only common denominator of all the 360 watches is their uncompromised quality.


    Patek Philippe : A Rediscovery
    Christie's is proud to announce the exciting discovery of a historically important and probably unique, white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases and leap-year, ref. 3448, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1981 (estimate: SFr.800,000-1,400,000 / US$850,000-1,500,000/ €670,000-1,200,000). This extraordinary example is most likely the first ever wristwatch by Patek Philippe featuring a leap year indication, besides prototypes. Perpetual calendar wristwatches manufactured by the maker did not include such an indication until 1982, with the introduction of reference 3450. Therefore, the present watch, indicating 1, 2, 3 and a red dot (for the leap year) during the 4 year cycle, constitutes a spectacular discovery to the world of watch collectors and scholars alike. Presented in mint condition, it also benefits from an ultra-rare white gold case enhancing the beauty of the celebrated "padellone" design. Coming from the property of the family of its original owner and previously unknown to the public, this watch has never been offered on the market before. Amongst the highlights on offer is another Patek Philippe gem: an important and extremely rare platinum dress watch with perpetual calendar and moon phases, ref. 725/2, movement no. 930710, manufactured in 1947. (estimate: SFr.250,000-350,000 / US$270,000-370,000/ €210,000-290,000). Considered to be one of the world's most beautiful complicated pocket watches of post-war production, this example is offered in virtually mint, unworn and unpolished condition.


    A Gentleman's Pursuit for Excellence part II
    A superb private collection of complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches and pocket watches

    Following the success of Part I of A Gentleman's Pursuit For Excellence, which was offered at Christie's Geneva in November 2012, we are delighted to announce the sale of the second part of this superb private collection of complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches and pocket watches. Equally sophisticated, Part II displays a great selection of some of the most beautiful and rare wristwatches ever manufactured by Patek Philippe. One of the most precious pieces from this section of the sale is a very rare gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499/100, manufactured in 1981 by Patek Philippe (estimate: SFr.250,000-350,000 / US$ 270,000-370,000 / €210,000-290,000). Widely considered by collectors as the last, true vintage complicated wristwatch ever created by Patek Philippe, the production of reference 2499 started in the early 1950s.
    Further highlighting Part II is a probably unique gold open face two-train trip minute repeating pocket watch by Patek Philippe, ref. 841, its movement manufactured in 1909 and encased in 1963 (estimate: SFr.100,000-150,000 / US$110,000-160,000/ €85,000-120,000). This watch features the rare and desirable tandem wound two-train movement, one for the going and one for the repeating work.
    Traditionally, the repeating mechanism of a watch is activated by pushing a slide in the case band, thus winding and releasing it at the same time. The train of a trip repeater is wound in conjunction with the going train and released at will through a button in the crown. The advantages of this system are the clean lines of the case, the enhanced dust resistance and most importantly, permitting the owner the activation of the repeat train many times at will from only one winding.

    The most important selection of Rolex vintage wristwatches ever offered in a Christie's auction
    An extraordinarily rare, oversized stainless steel split seconds chronograph wristwatch, ref. 4113, manufactured in 1942 (estimate: SFr.700,000-1,200,000; US$ 740,000-1,300,000/ € 590,000-1,000,000), is the highlight of the richest selection of Rolex vintage watches ever offered in a Christie's auction, including some 115 Rolex timepieces overall. Being the firm's one and only ever produced split seconds chronograph wristwatch model, reference 4113 is considered the rarest and most exclusive Rolex ever created. Impressing with its unique case shape and size, it has a substantial diameter of 44 mm which surpasses all other Rolex chronographs by at least half a centimeter in size. Furthermore, its case design is unique in the family of Rolex chronographs with a bezel as thin as technically possible, allowing a dial size nearly as big as the entire case, resulting in an impressive level of legibility. The history of reference 4113 has always been the subject of speculation and legends, although all of these speculations have led to the world of car racing. The vast majority of reference 4113, which have returned to the market during the last thirty years was linked to Sicily, home of the famous "Giro Automobilistico di Sicilia", with its 11,000 bands, at the time the longest closed circuit race in Europe.
    The roll call of impressive vintage Rolex wristwatches continues with an extremely fine and probably unique gold chronograph Daytona wristwatch, Paul Newman model, ref. 6241, manufactured in 1968 and retailed by Hermes (estimate: SFr.200,000-300,000 / US$ 220,000-420,000/ €170,000-330,000). The rarity of this lot is marked by the stamp of the Hermes brand on the back of the watch, to date the only Rolex Daytona known to exist retailed by Hermes Paris: a pairing of the world's most mythical names. This fact is confirmed by the Hermes archives and the watch is prominently published in key literature.
    Further highlights include one of the historically most important watches ever made by Rolex, the Zerographe reference 3346. Considered a crossover between a Rolex bubble back watch and Rolex chronograph, Zerographe reference 3462 marks a turning point in Rolex history. Probably never made beyond a small number of prototypes, this reference is the foundation of Rolex's future developments. Notably, it launched the success story of Oyster chronographs, culminating with the Daytona, but also sports watches with revolving bezels, later to become the world-famous Turnograph and Submariner families. Zerographe reference 3346 was the first Oyster chronograph model produced by Rolex and furthermore the first to be powered by an in-house movement. What made the movement so special was the addition of a return-to-zero or fly-back mechanism. The present Zerographe is preserved in award-winning condition and fascinates by virtue of its sharp outlines, the very crisp milling on the bezel rim and back, the perfectly sharp writing on the back and the well-preserved markings on the bezel. (estimate: SFr.250,000-350,000 /US$ 270,000-370,000/ €210,000-290,000).

     
    The Palladio collection part I
    Complementing the sale, Christie's is pleased to offer Part I of a Private Collection of stainless steel Rolex Chronographs, composed of 10 timepieces dating from the late 1920s to the 1960s. The top lot of the collection is a rare stainless steel triple calendar chronograph wristwatch with luminous numerals and hands, ref. 4767, manufactured circa 1948 by Rolex (estimate: SFr.120,000-180,000 / US$130,000/190,000 / €100,000-150,000). The present watch is an outstanding example of this reference, the first Oyster-series triple calendar chronograph model ever presented by Geneva's "crowned" watch manufacturer. Known to have been made in an exceedingly limited series, original and unspoilt examples of this landmark model are extremely rare. In fact, the present reference 4767 is distinguished by its beautiful original dial, and enhanced by the rarity of the luminous numerals and hands.


    Contemporary timepieces
    Christie's will also offer a very b selection of limited contemporary collector's watches from the most important manufacturers. This section of the sale is highlighted by an extremely rare stainless steel wristwatch with oversized date and power reserve Lange 1, which is one of only three examples of this model known in stainless steel by A. Lange & Söhne (estimate: SFr.50,000-100,000 / US$53,000-110,000/ €42,000-83,000). Introduced in 1994, Lange 1 is the first Lange watch of the new era and represents a culmination of what connoisseurs of fine watches associate with the legendary "A. Lange & Söhne" heritage. The present stainless steel version is especially appreciated by watch purists as the simplicity of the case material enhances the beauty of the movement. The stainless steel version of this model was never available to the public.


    Sold for the benefit of Children Action
    Christie's is honored to have been chosen to auction a superb selection of ten contemporary Patek Philippe wristwatches. An anonymous gentleman collector has consigned these watches from his personal collection and will donate the proceeds to benefit Children Action, a Swiss Foundation aiming to bring help to children in need, regardless of their nationality, race, or religion. All the timepieces from this collection will be offered without reserve, with the global estimate ranging from SFr.450,000 to SFr.700,000. The highlight from this section of the sale is a fine, white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, leap year and day and night indication, ref. 5270, manufactured by Patek Philippe circa 2011 (estimate: SFr.100,000-150,000 / US$110,000-160,000/ €85,000-120,000). Considered as the "top of the line" of Patek Philippe production, reference 5270 can only be obtained after considerable delay due to a long waiting list. As a "perpetual calendar chronograph", this is the legitimate successor of Patek Philippe's famous family including reference 1518, 2449, 3970 and 5970.

    View Christie's May 2013 Important Watches auction's eCatalogue


     

  • Obituary - Passing of Patrick Heiniger

    WORLDTEMPUS - 6 march 2013

    Patrick Heiniger marked the history of the company throughout the 16 years he presided over its destiny, from 1992 to 2008.
    M.Heiniger was appointed Managing Director of Rolex in 1992, six years after he joined as Commercial Director. He was also named Chief Executive Officer in 1997. As the company's third Managing Director since it was founded, he followed his father, Andre J. Heiniger, who in 1963 had succeeded Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex.


    Born in Argentina in 1950, Patrick Heiniger was a lawyer by training, specializing in international and intellectual property law. He made it his mission to reinforce the protection of the brand throughout the world.
    Under his impetus, in the mid-1990s Rolex made a fundamental strategic choice and opted for the vertical integration of its means of production. This strategy was intended to guarantee control over manufacturing of the essential components of the brand's watches and thus to ensure its autonomy.
    As a true independent watchmaker of the 21st century, enjoying unprecedented freedom in the design and manufacture of its watches, Rolex could take its ambition for excellence and innovation to new heights.
    In 2002, Patrick Heiniger created the Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative, dedicated to helping promising young artists realize their full potential under the watchful eye of a renowned mentor in their discipline.
    That same year, he was awarded the insignia of Chevalier of the National Order of the Legion of Honour and, in 2005, he was appointed Commander of the Order of Arts and Letters.
    Patrick Heiniger retired from the helm of Rolex in December 2008.
    Worldtempus would like to express its deepest sympathy to Patrick Heiniger's family and Rolex teams.

  • Antiquorum - Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

    Antiquorum, The World's Premier Auctioneers of Modern and Vintage Timepieces, is pleased to present its fall auction of "Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces" to be held on Sunday, November 11th at The Mandarin Oriental Geneva. Collectors can look forward to bidding on 613 outstanding modern and vintage timepieces.

    Amongst the unique and collectible highlights is an extremely rare Rolex Single Red Prototype, Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller Submariner and a series of Patek Philippe timepieces, including a Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and a Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Previews will be held in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing as well as Geneva.


    The highlight of the sale is a Magnificent Royal Presentation Musical Fan with Concealed Watch, A gift from Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha to Vicomte de Morais, attributed to Piguet & Capt, Geneva, made circa 1810.


     
    It is an extremely rare and magnificent, musical, gold, painted on enamel and pearl-set fan with concealed watch and visible rose-diamond-set balance, the fan painted in watercolour and gold. This important gold and enamel musical fan is one of only three known to exist with a watch and music. A magnificent object de luxe, like the other fabulous and exotic precious objects made in Geneva at the beginning of the 19th century, this fan would have been the exclusive preserve of Royalty and the very upper echelons of polite society.


    Lot 189
    Estimate: CHF 300,000 - 500,000
     
    "It's exciting to come across rare and special lots such as the Prototype Rolex Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller Submariner and the Royal Presentation Fan, and we are proud to present them at Antiquorum's auction," said Evan Zimmermann, President and CEO of Antiquorum. "Items of such horological and historical importance along with a series of Patek Philippe and other very fine timepieces are sure to make this an outstanding event."
     
    Antiquorum is also proud to present the Single Red Patent Pending Rolex Ref.1665 500m/1650ft - one of only six known. Produced in 1967 and never before seen at auction, there are six known examples of the "Single Red," including this particular example. According to research, this may be one of the only two known examples with escape valve. These watches were the prototypes for subsequent production models of the Sea-Dweller. Their history, intertwined with the lives and contributions of important divers of the 1960's make them one of the most historically significant watches that Rolex ever made, and thus one of the most important dive Rolexes to have ever come up for auction. Bought by the current consignor in the late 1980's, the watch has remained unworn in the safe since its purchase and has remained in excellent original condition.
    Lot 126
    Estimate: CHF 80,000 - 120,000
     
    Patek Philippe collectors will want to bid on the Patek Philippe Ref.1518, First Series. Made in 1951, it is a rare 18K yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases accompanied by the Extract from the Archives.


    Lot 612
    Estimate: 200,000 - 300,000 CHF
     
    Another highlight of the sale is a Patek Philippe Yellow Gold Ref. 2499/100, one of the last examples to be produced. It is a very fine 18K yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with phases of the moon accompanied by the Extract from the Archives. Made in 1984, it would appear that the present watch has never been offered at auction before.

  • Collecting - Vintage Value Equation (4)


    WORLDTEMPUS - 20 August 2012
    When I am evaluating the condition of a watch, I always examine the case's lugs for thickness and uniformity. With experience after studying lots of watches, you will learn what a case looks like before it is refinished. For example: on complicated Patek Philippe models, especially perpetual calendar chronographs starting with the second-series 2499 models, the lugs have steps. Study these watches closely to learn what the steps look like when they are new. Stay away from cases with soft lugs or request a deep discount for a soft case. The metal can never again be made whole once it is polished away.
    In the previous three parts of this series, we have learned that the dial is the most important and valuable part of a vintage watch. Accordingly, the condition of the dial is paramount. Ideally, there will be no imperfections like flaking paint, no rust, or missing applied pieces. Many vintage watch dials have lacquer on them; after many years lacquer can craze or crack. This is actually a desirable effect on some watches like the glossy dial of the Rolex 5513 Submariner. Spotting on a dial that is a few decades or more in age is normal, and as long as it doesn't detract from your enjoyment of the watch, it is normally acceptable. The hands, usually included with the dial in grading condition, are frequently in different condition than the dial. Oxidation or pitting can often be found on hands. If there is luminous substance on the hands, it can be cracked or have completely fallen out. In this regard, original hands, regardless of their condition, are more valuable than replacement hands, even if the latter are like new.


    In terms of dial condition, there are some specific discolorations that enhance the value of the watch. Most common is patina, which is the word used for something whose color changes over time. The luminous hour markers on Rolex dials are the most useful example. Study the dials of, say, Reference 5513 Submariners. You will find hour markers from snow white (no patina) to deep butterscotch color. The important thing, in terms of value, is that the patina is uniform across all luminous elements. Another permutation in hue is the so called Color Change (or "Patrizzi") dials on the Rolex 16520 Daytona models. This only occurs on the black dials and, specifically, on the chapter rings around the subdials. Originally, the chapter rings were white or pale silver. Some, over time, develop a brown coloration. For many collectors, this is a pleasing effect and makes the watch more valuable. Incidentally, dials with a propensity for having chapter rings turn brown usually also have an inverted 6 on the chronograph hour totalizer subdial. One last example of a desirable color change is the Rolex Explorer II reference number 16550, whose white dials have turned to a deep cream color.


    Bracelets hopefully stand the test of time without stretching or losing links, however this is not as important as replacement bracelets are usually fairly easy to find, though likely expensive. Nothing is more personally disgusting than a used strap, much less a really old used strap. A new strap is preferred, as no one likes to wear a strap that someone else has sweated on. An exception to this is certain vintage pilot's watches with special straps or even ankle straps, which are basically almost as historic as the watch itself.
    The last variable in determining the value of a vintage watch is provenance: the old "box and papers" thing. Without exception or qualification, it is always better to get as many of the elements that were originally delivered with the watch as possible. For many high-end vintage watches, the presence of the original box, documents and other paraphernalia can enhance the value of the watch by as much as 25 to 35 percent.
    Interestingly, what was given out with the watch was often different depending on where in the world the watch was purchased. Let's face it, we all like to get as much as possible for our money, and the goodies and extras are important and quite valuable. The original guarantee or chronometer certificate for a watch also proves authenticity. There is an active market for vintage watch boxes, product booklets, hang tags and the like. Buyer beware, however: these items can also be faked. You can never be too careful in learning about the paraphernalia, what to look for to know if you are looking at genuine artifacts or fakes.
    A final thought when it comes to finding a watch with its original elements: the original owner and perhaps subsequent owners who cared enough to keep the watch and its things together was probably an owner who took good care of the watch itself. Easily 90 percent of vintage watches have no box and papers, so finding a complete package is rare, exciting and valuable. Good luck!

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    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (1)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (2)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (3)

  • Collecting - Vintage Value Equation (3)


    WORLDTEMPUS - 16 August 2012

    Dials deserve special mention when talking about the originality of vintage watches because, in my opinion, an original dial comprises approximately half to three-quarters of the watch's overall value. For example, a vintage Rolex Daytona with a normal original dial is worth only half of the same watch with an original Paul Newman dial. A Rolex Submariner from the 1950s with its original unmodified dial is worth double the same watch with a later Rolex replacement dial. Naturally, very few such early watches survive to this day with original perfect-condition dials, but such pristine original dials exist. These perfect watches command a substantial price premium over watches with degraded, but otherwise original, dials. Degraded original dials command more value than OEM (original equipment maker) replacement dials.

    I mentioned last week how dials can be modified for aesthetic or functional reasons - known in the jargon as re-painted, as re-dialed, re-lumed, etc. - and dials that fall into this category have the least value. Fake dials, fairly prevalent on otherwise valuable original watches, have no value and are considered a serious demerit to the watch for obvious reasons. However, the other real parts of the watch have value, which is to be remembered for the serious collector who may have a collection of original parts accumulated over many years, which he or she can combine to form a watch comprising all original parts. So-called "put-together" watches are less than optimal because they are not original. As the years go by, however, and parts and/or entire watches get damaged, discarded or become otherwise unavailable, these spare original parts can result in a complete original watch that would otherwise be a broken or less-than-original watch. 


    It's not surprising that the dial is the most important part of the watch because the dial is how the wearer interacts with the watch. A compromise with the dial is a compromise in the enjoyment of the watch, and ultimately in its value.
    Cases and movements are also often less than completely original and, again, this can be for various reasons. Both are still critical factors in arriving at the value of a watch, however. Ideally, both the entirety of the case and movement will be original. Hopefully, the movement will have been serviced over the years and be running. If the movement needed or needs parts, OEM parts are preferred. However, the bottom line is that the watch is running. An original movement with some non-original parts is preferred to a broken movement that doesn't run. In more complicated watches, especially vintage Rolex Daytonas, the movements are sometimes not original. Vintage Daytonas were powered by Valjoux movements that were commonly found in other quality chronographs of the era. A vintage Daytona may have the Valjoux movement numbers 72B, 722, 722-1 or 727. Rolex made their own modifications to these movements and, of course, engraved the bridges. Given the value of vintage Daytonas, resourceful crooks have "put together" vintage Daytonas using real Valjoux movements from non-Rolex watches (without the Rolex modifications or with faked modifications), and a combination of other real or faked parts. Watch cases are not usually counterfeited, but you may find a Universal Geneve case masquerading as a Daytona case.


    One other point needs to be made about cases and movements: Rolex stocks replacement cases and replacement movements for watches received for servicing with irretrievably compromised parts. These cases often have a distinct serial number starting with the numeral 44. Likewise, the movement in a vintage watch may be a replacement movement if the original was rusted or somehow destroyed. Knowing which movements belong in which watch is a matter of experience and building an excellent resource library; so many part numbers can get confusing for anyone.
    The condition of the watch is the next most important variable in determining the watch's value, and sellers grade condition. Some sellers will use a number scale with 100 percent condition meaning the watch is as perfect as new. Other sellers use words like mint, mint+, near mint, excellent, etc. I like to believe most sellers make an honest attempt to describe their watches accurately. Not surprisingly, the seller often describes the condition of the watch more optimistically than the buyer will describe it once receiving it. So if you are buying a watch, make the guarded assumption that the seller's condition assessment is probably optimistic.
    Obviously, the better the condition of the watch, the more valuable it is. As such, there are some specific things to pay attention to and there are tradeoffs. Every collector has to decide what is most important to him or her in this regard.


    Specifically, when a watch case leaves a factory it is new, shiny and not diminished from being polished. Some collectors put a premium on a watch that has been polished so that its surfaces are clean enough to give the appearance of being like new. Other collectors prioritize originality over appearance. A watch case has a specific finish when it is new, and many watches have a combination of alternating finishes like mirror-polished, matte, sandblasted, or brushed surfaces. If a watch returns to its manufacturer for service, the watchmakers will restore the original finish, which is important. Using Rolex once again as an example, many Oyster cases are brushed on the top surfaces of the case, mirror-polished on the sides, and the case back is mirror-polished on its outer ring and brushed in the center. The center may be concentrically or laterally brushed. Send a watch to Rolex for service and it will come back looking perfect.
    However, careless watchmakers have ruined hundreds of thousands of watches by applying a mono-finish when working on a case. I have seen far too many fully mirror-polished Rolex cases and all brush-finished Panerai cases that should have been polished. Fortunately, this is reversible, but remember: each and every time a watch case is polished, metal is eroded and lost forever. Also, check the case for serial and model numbers and other engraving or printing that should be on the watch. All should be crisp and legible. Many cases have been polished to the point where original markings are either illegible or removed altogether. On precious metal watch cases, look to make sure that the metal's hallmarks are present. If you are looking at what appears to be a gold or platinum watch, the case should have hallmarks. Finding a crisp, deep hallmark means the case is both made of the metal it purports to be made from and has only been lightly or never polished.

    Related stories:

    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (1)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (2)

    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (4)

  • Chronicle - Saving the Time

    We watch lovers know that when we buy a mechanical watch, we must take care of it almost the same way we would care for a well-oiled automobile. I know from personal experience that trusty auto mechanics are, however, in short supply. They take one look at me and - noting my gender - try to convince me that my car is in need of much more service than it really is. When I find a mechanic who I feel treats me fairly, services my car correctly and charges me fair rates, I stick with that mechanic basically for life.
    Mechanical watches are no different. They need periodic servicing - though much less than a car. They need loving hands to treat them well, and they require further investments by their owners. I know that when I need a watch serviced, I prefer my favorite local watchmaker with whom I have a longstanding relationship over sending the watch to a foreign country via an anonymous chain store. I support my local independent watchmaker and I am certainly not alone. Mom-and-pop watchmakers with skills to run a decent business and take care of fine watches are in serious short supply. When you find one, you hang on to them with all your might.
    About ten years ago, my favorite local watchmaker told me that he could no longer service new Rolex models and some other big-name brands because they won't sell spare parts and the special tools required to install them to independent watchmaker-repairers. So, if you buy these brands, you should know in advance that they can only be serviced by the companies in question and their direct affiliates - at which point control over what is happening inside your watch is lost. In fact, a high-level collector just told me last week that when you send in a new Rolex for servicing, that company will change any number of parts out without even asking - including the dial. These days I guess it is a known quotient, and something you inherently agree to when you buy a watch from that brand.
    A group of Australian watchmakers is currently becoming vocal over the issue, which seems to be becoming standard fare among group-owned luxury brands. An organization called Save the Time has sparked a rally for supply of manufacturer's parts to independent watchmaker-repairers.
     


    The problem
    Using another off-industry analogy let me show you the problem in a different way. My first laptop was a Macintosh G4, which served me well - except for the batteries, which only had enough juice for two hours of use. No Mac battery can last the length of a transatlantic airplane ride, which is why I always traveled with at least three so I could work on airplanes. One time, I accidentally left one of my batteries in the airplane seat pocket, so I decided to contact Apple to see if I could order a new one to my hotel in time for the 13-hour plane ride home. I was informed by the salesperson that (four years after original purchase, mind you) Apple no longer made batteries for this model and I would be best served checking eBay. That exchange stopped me in my tracks and I no longer subscribe to the Macintosh philosophy. Now a solid PC user, I am aware in advance that the € 500 I invest in my computer (as opposed to triple that for a Mac) will likely only last me about three years. However, the salespeople tell you this in advance and it is a known fact.
    What is not a known fact is that one can spend € 10,000 and way more for a luxury watch of the finest quality and be expected five years later to plunk down another almost € 2,000 for repairs and servicing. This is the other issue the Australian watchmakers are fighting to make public.
    Australia saves the time
    No watchmaker becomes a watchmaker for any other reason than that he or she simply loves watches. It is the passion for the craft that carried him or her on through endless pedagogic sessions and thousands of manual hours of training. The reward at the end is the exciting moment when life begins to beat within a piece of metal that we call the balance spring, the heart of a mechanical watch.
     


    When a watchmaker becomes an independent watchmaker-repairer, he or she usually does that for the love of the craft, and it is in his or her interest to serve customers well. It is not a high-paying job and relationships with clients and other passionate individuals in the field are among the biggest rewards. Mark Pleszczynski of Murwillumbah, Australia, is just such a watchmaker. Pleszczynski, who also plays a large role in the Watch & Clockmakers of Australia association, an unpaid not-for-profit organization, can no longer source spare parts for watches made by many of the group brands. He told me that this has resulted in income loss of $1,000 and more for him per week. He also explained that when these watches are sent to the manufacturer for servicing or repair, it will cost the consumer triple the amount he would have charged. This is not the main reason that Pleszczynski has joined the Save the Time movement: the main reason is that he feels that the restriction is eliminating the consumer choice of going to an established and trusted repairer.
    This is different than the reason that Nick Hacko began the Save the Time movement, though it is related. "There is one small problem with the monopoly," he says. "It only works great for monopolists. Once it kills competition (independent watchmakers), monopolists start to raise repair prices way above marginal costs and lower customer service. Monopoly leaves you without a second option, a second opinion, a second quote and robs you of ability to inquire and ask questions."
    Additionally, something happened in March that made him really go through the roof. He sent a very fine watch to the Australian headquarters of a major concern for crystal replacement. He had no choice but to send it there since they would not supply him with the replacement crystal. He therefore also had no choice but to have that watch repaired under that concern's terms and for the amount of money it found fit to charge. "And there is nothing wrong with that," Hacko said. "Except for one detail: while I was 'happy' to pay $195 for a new glass, I was less than happy to pay an additional $790 for a complete overhaul. And, quite frankly, I was blue in the face when I found that this watch needed a 'balance' for an extra $520 and a 'complete barrel' for another $270." The total (mandatory) repair cost for what was originally a replaced crystal came to $1,775.
    Hacko maintains (and actually sent me photographic evidence) that the watch ran at minus 5 seconds per day and that the balance showed 278 degrees of amplitude. "This indicates to me that the watch does not need a new balance wheel."
     


    It became obvious to Hacko that the repair quote was based on an assumption that the watch needs a new balance and barrel. "As any car mechanic can confirm, you cannot make a quote without looking under the bonnet," he justifiably said. "After the watch was returned, I took a photo of the case, which clearly shows that the serviceman did not even bother to take the watch out of the case and inspect the mechanism. Or he did an amazing job of 're-applying' the dirt to the case."
    Hacko explained to me that proper repair procedure requires that all movement parts are disassembled, cleaned, then put back together. Only then can a repairman assess overall condition, wear and tear, and finally proceed with component replacement. "By quoting the replacement of the balance (which is the most expensive component), the concern in question has covered its back in case the watch really needed some or any parts. I find this completely unethical."
    Hacko then took the watch apart to find out for himself what was really transpiring under the hood. After the overhaul, he was able to adjust the daily rate to close to zero seconds per day deviation. "Of course, I am not going to pretend that this watch kept absolutely perfect time in each and every position. The truth is no mechanical watch can keep absolutely perfect time in every position tested. But the healthy amplitude of 283 degrees told me that I don't need a new balance staff, balance wheel or complete balance assembly for $520!"
    Hacko has since been instrumental in founding the new Professional Watchmakers of Australia, an association formed with intention to represent all independent Australian watchmakers demanding access to spare parts and fulfils the unpaid function of secretary and spokesperson.
    Currently, Save the Time is looking to take this matter to the ACCC (Australian Competition & Consumer Commission), but they need 10,000 petition signatures to be able to do so. By visiting the website save-the-time.org, you can sign the petition, find out where local watchmakers are located and get a list of local suppliers. You can also read more about why the watchmakers find this so important.
    If it can happen in Australia, it can happen anywhere. The subject is also currently being investigated by European Union antitrust regulators thanks to the European Confederation of Watch and Clock Repairers Associations.
     

  • Rolex - Big Winner at Estoril Open

    Juan Martín Del Potro had an easier time bringing home the gold at this tournament than perhaps others. It was obvious he felt right at home on the red clay of the Lisbon suburb's courts: disposing of France's Richard Gasquet (number 18 in the ATP rankings) in the finals and Switzerland's Stanislas Wawrinka (number 21) in the semifinals, the gentle giant put his Rolex Milgauss on his wrist directly after shaking his opponents' hands at every match.


    Furthermore, Salomão Kolinski of the retail chain Boutique dos Relógios was on hand to present the winners with timepieces from Omega for the third year running. As Del Potro's Rolex ambassadorship prevented him from wearing other timepieces, he gifted his Seasmaster to the best Portuguese player, João Sousa, who lost to Spain's Albert Ramos in the quarterfinals in a valiant battle.
     


    The ladies' champion, Estonia's Kaia Kanepi - currently number 26 in the world - received a ladies' Constellation.

  • Sotheby's - Thomas Perazzi New Deputy Director


    Thomas Perazzi joins Sotheby's from his position as specialist at an auction house specialising in horology. Mr. Perazzi began his career in the industry in 2006, further developing his b interest in Omega and Rolex watches as well as vintage wristwatches made between 1940 and 1970. Mr. Perazzi will strengthen Sotheby's existing team in Europe with his solid expertise and b relations to Italy, a key centre in the watch auction market in Europe.
    Commenting on Thomas Perazzi's appointment, Marc Michel-Amadry, Managing Director, Sotheby's Switzerland said: "I am delighted to announce the appointment of Thomas Perrazi as Deputy Director of Sotheby's European Watch Department. Thomas brings to Sotheby's outstanding expertise as well as a thorough understanding of the auction business and the Italian market. His appointment will enhance the company's ability to ensure the best service to watch collectors".
    Geoffroy Ader, Head of Watches, Sotheby's Europe, added: "Through his deep knowledge of the vintage and modern wristwatches, Thomas Perazzi will reinforce our existing team in Europe" .
    Another b addition to Sotheby's global watch team, Charles Tearle, appointed Director, Head of Watches, Asia, will be based in Hong Kong, working closely with Tim Bourne, Worldwide Head of Watches, as well as an international team of specialists, in driving Sotheby's business in auctions and private sales of watches in Asia.
    Together, Mr. Tearle and Mr. Perazzi will further strengthen Sotheby's watch business worldwide by working closely with the international team of watch specialists, reporting to Tim Bourne, Worldwide Head of Watches.

  • Dive Watch - A Moment in Time

    A Timely Perspective - 28 March 2012


    Jason Heaton is passionate about diving and has even achieved Rescue Diver Certification. Heaton, who lives in Minneapolis, grew up around Lake Michigan, where there are pristine ship wrecks thanks to the cold water. He has spent years diving in top spots around the world - in water ranging from Lake Michigan to the Honduras, Bonaire, Sri Lanka and even Boston Harbor (a murky site that wasn't his favorite). Heaton has found way to combine his love of diving with real-world dive-watch reviews for a variety of publications. Here he shares his thoughts with Atimelyperspective on what makes a good dive watch.


    Jason Heaton somewhere off of Roatan, Honduras, wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Geographic Navy SEALs in rose gold. "Crazy watch in all respects!""The truth is that you don't really need a dive watch today because there are so many other dive instruments you can use, but there is a saying in the dive world that is critical: 'two is one and one is none'. If you have two pieces of equipment, it's like having one, and if you have one, it's like having nothing because anything can happen to a single instrument. You always need backup, and for me, that's a great dive watch," says Heaton.
    Several times, Heaton has had to rely only on his watch when diving. In fact, he refers to a trip in Sri Lanka, where a diving buddy's dive computer died. Heaton lent his computer to that diver, and relied on his watch to track his own time and depth.


     Heaton uses his dive watch to track intermediate things he is doing under water, and asserts it's a valuable timing tool, as well. He especially notes that since underwater navigation is tricky, using the watch to time how long you are swimming in one direction, helps you to assess when you need to turn around in order to get back in time before using up air. Thus, says Heaton, the most important feature on a dive watch is a one-way ratcheted bezel for the ability to track elapsed time. Also, in keeping with the ISO dive standards, the watch should be water resistant to at least 100 meters and have minute and hour hands that are distinctively different from each other.
    "Additionally, when looking to buy a diver's watch, one really needs to look at the strap. It's the first thing you have to deal with after putting on your wetsuit, so it's good to have a rubber or Velcro strap that fits over the suit, or a quick change bracelet. Divers also want a bezel that's grippy and turns easily enough to set. Luminescence is so important because you need ease of telling time under water, and finally the big clunker watches can get hung up on gear and snagged on things, so a lower profile watch is better."
    Among Heaton's favorites: Rolex, Citizen, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Doxa.

  • Kobold - Lofty Business

    When a Westerner hears the word "Sherpa," he or she immediately associates it with mountain climbing. There is a good reason for this: the Sherpa caste, at home at the foot of Mt. Everest, part of the Himalayan mountain range, makes its living by guiding tourists coming to Nepal to conquer the mountain. This is a dangerous, ungrateful job - but in many cases it is the best way for a member of the Sherpa ethnic group to support its family.

    Watchmaker Sherpas

    Namgel Sherpa and Thundu Sherpa probably often gratefully pray to their gods since the day that Sir Ranulph Fiennes and Michael Kobold showed up in Kathmandu in 2008, the latter having spontaneously decided to accompany his friend and the Kobold Watch Company ambassador who has been described as "the world's greatest living adventurer" on an Everest bid. Kobold was unprepared to climb, and he had not even reckoned with reaching what's known as base camp (the last acclimation settlement before serious climbers head up the earth's highest mountain, which peaks at 8,848 meters (29,029 feet) above sea level). He made it up much higher before both he and Fiennes had to turn back; it was then he discovered he was officially bit by the same bug that has plagued adventurers the world over.
    Kobold and Fiennes returned in 2009 and made it to the summit, with Kobold repeating the feat in 2010 together with his wife Anita Ugyan, who climbed without oxygen. During the three adventurous climbs, the lives of Kobold and other members of his crew - particularly his wife - were seriously endangered. Only by the grace of the Sherpas did they survive, and in his gratitude Kobold decided to make a suggestion uttered by Fiennes in 2008 into reality and invest in an unprecedented venture: training the two Sherpas as watchmakers and having them run a new subsidiary in Kathmandu called Kobold Watch Company Nepal (Pvt.) Ltd as co-owners.


    "These two caught on really quickly," Kobold's head watchmaker, Dale Poindexter, said of the Sherpas' ability to learn the complicated techniques involved in mechanical watchmaking during the official opening of Kobold Nepal on March 26. Poindexter trained them for ten months in Kobold's Pittsburgh facility.
    Made in Nepal
    As manufacturing and crafts only employ 6 percent of Nepal's 27 million-b population, it is safe to say that skilled labor is not one of this country's assets. In fact, Kobold is certain that his venture is a highly motivational one for the people of Nepal, a way for them to imagine a different future. "Newspapers have already written that Nepal, unable to produce even a sewing needle, now has 'watch movements' with hundreds of parts. This is sure to greatly increase the confidence of the Nepalese in themselves."

    The "standard" Kobold watch model bearing the predicate "made in Nepal," assembled in the Sherpas' new workshop, which is equipped with exceedingly solid, locally custom-made benches crafted from local wood, is called the Himalaya. It is housed in a 44 mm stainless steel case that was made in the U.S.A. The three-handed dial comes in brown or black and exudes the typical Kobold legibility that is the signature element of this adventurous brand. The automatic movement is a Kobold specialty: Caliber K.2651 is based on a vintage Förster movement from Pforzheim. Kobold is the only company currently using this refurbished and improved movement in serial watches. Water-resistant to 100 meters, the timepiece is protected by a sapphire crystal that is also sourced in the U.S.A. Its rugged, understated elegance completed by an alligator skin strap also crafted in the U.S.A. will allow this watch to be worn in any circumstances: on the mountain or in the city.
    To celebrate the opening, Kobold also offered a limited edition of 25 very special watches - which were unfortunately already sold out before the evening of the opening had even come to its exciting conclusion. The Himalaya Everest Edition features a very special dial crafted from a Mt. Everest summit limestone that Kobold plucked from the lofty ground and brought back down the mountain in 2009. A German specialist company located in Idar-Oberstein spent two years ensuring the structural integrity of the beautiful dials crafted from this rock that now forms the mysterious 5 mm-thick face of the Himalaya Everest Edition. Needless to say, each of the 25 pieces is unique in its own way thanks to the natural material.


    Last but hardly least
    Many colorful and important personages attended the evening festivity, including a handful of ambassadors to Nepal, two top generals of the Nepalese army -who ended up "guarding" the Kobold collection inspected by party guests in the new workshop - several members of the deposed royal family of Nepal, the commander-in-chief of its army and other influential fans of Kobold watches from various countries. They had all attended not only to support the new business but also to hear Kobold's famed ambassador tell stories of his exploits. Fiennes has been entered into the "Guinness Book of World Records" as "the greatest living explorer." This man, previously an esteemed Rolex ambassador for 20 years, is the author of many world firsts as well as gripping books. When he and Kobold summited Mt. Everest in 2009, Fiennes was 65 years old. He is a top celebrity in the U.K. and according to JustGiving.com, the U.K.'s top celebrity fundraiser.
    Asked why he gave up the Rolex sponsorship in favor of becoming Kobold's top ambassador, Fiennes replied in his typically direct way, "Gratitude and loyalty." This seems to be a running theme in the world of Kobold, and flows in both directions.


    Namgel and Thundu did not seem particularly fazed by any of this hoopla - least of all the celebrity explorer they have guided up their home mountain twice - and exuded a calm, interested outward demeanor throughout the entire event. In the space of the four years that they have known Kobold, the world of the two Sherpas who have climbed Mt. Everest a combined total of sixteen times has become an entirely different one. Though hard to get involved answers from them, when asked if they felt pride at all these accomplishments, the answer was clear: a big smile and an enthusiastic "yes!" accompanied by vigorous nodding. I'm not certain they understand the historic proportions of their actions over the last few years, but they have time to discover it - time mechanically measured by an adventurous Kobold watch that they keep running.

  • Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona


    A bezel in all the colours of the rainbow
    Along with its 18 ct yellow gold case and bracelet, this COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA dons a bezel entirely set with an array of sapphires in rainbow colours. All the nuances of the celestial arc are visible, a delicate palette of reds, oranges, yellows, greens, blues, mauves and pinks. The subtle grace of these fascinating stones meticulously selected, assembled and set by Rolex is magical, endowing the watch with a stunning radiance.
    Also gem-set, the case lugs, crown guard as well as the hour markers on the dial participate in the exquisite allure of this variation on the DAYTONA theme.

    Exclusive GOLD CRYSTALS counters
    Contrasting with the black lacquer of the dial, the reflections of the GOLD CRYSTALS counters blend with the radiance of the precious stones. Crafted from an 18 ct gold alloy perfected by Rolex in its own foundry, these exclusive counters highlight the crystal structure of the gold in a seductive play of reflections and colours. Each counter is a natural work of art, different from every other.
    The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
    The COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA's 40 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of proportion and elegance. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct gold. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TRIPLOCK triple waterproofness system, as well as the chronograph pushers screw down securely against the case. It is protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case ensures optimal protection for the COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA's high-precision movement.

    Calibre 4130, a superlative chronograph chronometer
    The COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA is equipped with calibre 4130, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 4130 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring, patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.
    The OYSTERLOCK clasp, functional and secure
    This COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA is fitted with an OYSTER bracelet in 18 ct yellow gold with the latestgeneration OYSTERLOCK safety clasp to prevent accidental opening. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet also features the ingenious EASYLINK rapid extension system that allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance.

  • Book - Collecting Rolex GMT-Master



    After the great success of the first edition "Collecting Rolex GMT-MASTER wristwatches", now sold out, Mondani Editor has decided to publish a second version which also presents the models produced in recent years, in order to give the information which has become essential today for buying and selling GMT-Master watches and to improve the contents of the preceding edition.
     


    Some of the questions a collector asks himself nowadays are:
    - Are the aluminium bezel inserts of the ref. 6542 coeval?
    - Is there a way to know if the bezel has been replaced?
    - The ref. 1675 in stainless steel has been created with the possibility to fit two bezels: red/blue and black?
    Thanks to the in depth study, this edition helps to dispel these doubts.
     


    Only in this book will it be possible to find the first models of the 50's down to the most recent watches. Special attention has been paid to the variations of the bezels, dials and cases - factors which today help determine the value of the watch. "Collecting Rolex GMT-MASTER" is a specific volume about Rolex GMT - MASTER which includes timepieces from the first models of the 1950's to the ones of the last period, including prototypes, military models, bracelets and all case and dial variants.

    This edition also offers a widening of those references which have always been desired by enthusiasts and collectors, such as for example the refs. 6542, 1675, 16750 and many others.
     


    For each reference, a detailed sheet is reported, indicating the years of beginning and end of production, the calibre and all the characteristics of the watch (crystal, bezel, bracelet, case back, winding crown, case number with production year, dial, movement, ...).
    "Collecting Rolex GMT-MASTER Wristwatches" also offers a widening of those references which have always been objects of desire of enthusiasts and collectors, such as the refs. 6542, 1675, 16750 and many others.

    ORDER THIS BOOK
    BESTSELLERS AND SPECIALS OFFERS BY WATCHPRINT

  • Veloptuous Times - Glorious Cows and Firs


    WORLDTEMPUS - 22 June 2011

    Veloptuous Times demanded the best that its protagonists could produce: endurance, resistance to cold and rain, the ability to focus attention after strenuous physical activity for interviews, and stopping as frequently as necessary to take a good photo. There was continuous mental and physical activity at the same time. Between bursts of pedaling, sun and wind, we also needed to find the time to care for our electronic equipment in order to write and publish. This is the reason why this last trip summary is only being published today, three working days after Veloptuous Times officially ended with a successful cocktail party in Neuchâtel.

    PHOTO GALLERY


    From La Chaux-de-Fonds, during the first hours of Monday, Veloptuous Times soared through the Franches-Montagnes region, along the Jurassic mountain chain. The rock relief practically anticipated our arrival, and our wheels spun quickly across the long country routes. The region has a number of interesting technical elements to offer and we pass many windmills and the central electricity production from the solar panels of Mont-Soleil. Our surroundings are nothing but prairie, forest zone, and fir trees reigning supreme against the backdrop of the permanent music of cowbells.
    The wind increased, and we had to fight to arrive in one piece at Georges Cattin's workshop in Le Noirmont. A case manufacturer, organist for 30 years, and collector of electric motors, his workshop is populated solely by mechanical machines, with the most recent dating from 1980. While numerically controlled tools have become the norm among suppliers, Cattin perpetuates a vintage and artisanal way of manufacturing. Son and grandson of a case maker, he is specialized in manufacturing cases decorated - among other things - with fluting and perlage. His services are particularly useful for brands specialized in small series and other operations where CNC is not the best choice or plain incapable.
    We parted ways in the afternoon. Anders went toward Saignelegier to meet with a brewer of Franches-Montagnes beers and a cheese producer specialized in tête de moine, which is typical of the region. For my part, I capped my visit to the Bien region with a long, slow descent that gifted me with plenty of different altitudes before hitting the plateau of the countryside boasting three lakes. Arriving in Biel, however, was not so pleasant thanks to the region's heavy traffic, which is concentrated on one thruway connected by a series of tunnels. Side by side with trucks and cars at full speed, the bike - even this super bike - does not carry much weight. Arriving in the city, underneath a sunny sky, was like a release.
    Without stopping in the city, which seems to have been built by the Swatch Group, but which is home to many other famous names as well — like Rolex — I headed toward Granges to visit BMC's bike factory. Flat and monotone, this particular stretch was not the most spirited as the savage nature of the Jura had given way to a universe that was agricultural and industrial at the same time. 
    BMC is specialized in the creation of bike frames and mainly has the other components produced by suppliers - with the exception of the Impec, a bike model presented in 2010 and realized entirely in carbon fiber and reinforced plastic. It is the first full in-house production by the brand. An obvious analogy with horology exists when one discovers the care and high degree of technology necessary to produce these frames.
    I now needed to return to Biel to meet up with Anders. We were to establish our camp on a hill overlooking the city and affording a view of the Jura cliffs. This was the last evening spent with Veloptuous Times, and Anders cooked up some scallops and a vegetable curry over the camp fire. Dessert was mousse au chocolat and a celebratory bottle of champagne. Nature made a luxurious backdrop to this final party.
    Tuesday began with a visit to Perrelet in Biel to meet up with Fausto Salvi, its CEO, and Karine Marie, in charge of communication. Veloptuous Times then left for the final stage of the ride to Neuchâtel. Along the way, a baker we met during a visit to a wine cellar offered us bread for the evening's cocktail. Having reached the lakes of Biel and Neuchâtel, we managed to enter the heart of the city, ready to prepare the event scheduled at the end of the day. The partners of Worldtempus and Plaza Watch had convened at the Interlope restaurant, which also has an old brewery, to partake in local wines, cheeses, and an excellent mood of all involved - happy to celebrate not only an end, but also a beginning: the beginning of summer.

  • Tennis & Timepieces - A Watch Connoisseur in Paris


    WORLDTEMPUS - 27 May 2011

    During the Australian Open in January, Robin Söderling was asked what people would be most surprised to know about him. The Swede, currently number five in tennis's world rankings, answered, "Probably that I love watches."
    For insiders, this wasn't a big revelation. The two-time French Open finalist is a true aficionado and always wears interesting timepieces on his wrist. He's not the only one, but he is a man who likes "different" watches. "If you walk around the tennis tour, everybody seems to have a nice watch - but I don't really like the obvious ones. In the beginning, maybe yes, but then to have a good brand or a nice model that not many others have is a pretty nice feeling. These are the types of watches you find when reading a lot of watch magazines," he says before jokingly adding, "Well, half of what I read about watches I don't even understand, but I still think it's cool and I try to learn!"
    The more Söderling learns about watches, the more careful he is about choosing his next timepiece: "I never go out just to buy a watch, I never decide on the spot - I always like to look at different watches and to think about it. I buy them as a reward. I always think that the next time I win a tournament I'm going to buy that particular watch I've been thinking about."

    Time to Kill

    His reward doesn't have to be related to a tournament win, actually. A year ago, after beating Tomas Berdych in the semifinals at Roland Garros, he got the Hublot Big Bang he'd been eyeing. When will he get his next timepiece? Maybe soon. Söderling is back in Paris trying to at least emulate his killer performances of the past two years, where he ended two outstanding Rafael Nadal and Roger Federer records: in 2009, in the fourth round, he beat Nadal and still is the only player to have ever beaten the Spaniard at the French Open. In 2010, he overcame Federer in the quarterfinals, ending the Swiss champion's incredible run of 23 consecutive semifinals at Grand Slam tournaments.
    Federer is a well-known Rolex ambassador, whereas Nadal has caused quite a sensation sporting ultra-expensive Richard Mille timepieces, from the $550,000 RM027 tourbillon he wore last year as his good-luck charm to his new RM035. And Roland Garros is sponsored by Longines. Söderling is still thinking about a possible sponsorship and looking at different brands, but he won't rush; he never has when it comes to watches.
    "Good watches are expensive. When I was young and started to win more matches, I really felt I could buy a good watch and I wanted to have a Rolex - and actually the first really nice watch I bought was a pre-owned steel Daytona chronograph that I saw in a shop in London in 2006. I still like it a lot, but these days it's my girlfriend Jenni who has been wearing it; it became a bit small for me, but I reckon small and thin watches are back."


    He didn't have to buy the second good timepiece of his collection. "I got a gold Bulgari Diagono Professional Diving as a gift from the tournament in Bastad - they were happy I played there for so many years, and I was really happy with the present." During this very interview, Söderling is wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Volcano, also known as "The Jarno Trulli."
    "I bought it during the U.S. Open in 2009," he says. That year, in New York, he had been undecided between the Royal Oak Offshore and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm. Then he opted for the Volcano.
    Deep Purple, Hard Rock
    There's a watch in his collection that Soderling particularly appreciates and whose b looks match his powerful "hard-rock" style of tennis: a Graham Chronofighter Oversize Diver "Deep Purple." "I had been looking at Graham, because Thomas Johansson has a friend who owns a watch store in London and they sell Graham - he showed them to me a few years ago." The "Deep Purple" is a stunning limited edition of 500 pieces of the Chronofighter Oversize Diver in black-and-purple. It perfectly embodies the Swedish star's taste for niche brands and exquisite, sporty timepieces. "When my girlfriend Jenni and I went on vacation last December, we went diving a lot and I really wanted to test it, so I brought the Graham along."
    At the Estoril Open in Portugal, Söderling took the time to visit a small watch exhibition by tournament sponsors Boutique dos Relógios in the VIP area. There he appreciated some fine timepieces from several top brands - from Richard Mille to IWC. "For a man, a watch truly is the best thing," he says. "I don't really like earrings or necklaces or bracelets, so a watch is the best accessory and a way of expression for a man."


    And what better way to express himself than wearing a fabulous Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept at the photo shoot for the cover of King magazine? "They brought it from a watch store in Stockholm called Nymans Ur; it's a really nice store where they sell some incredible watches...unfortunately they didn't let me keep it after the shooting was over."
    Maybe he'll get it if he finally wins Roland Garros. It won't be easy; he is on collision course with Nadal, who he is expected to face in a blockbuster quarterfinal. In six appearances at the French Open, the Spaniard has won the title five times - and Söderling was the only one to defeat him on Paris's slow red clay courts. If and when they face each other, time will surely stand still for all tennis (and watch!) aficionados.

  • Rolex - Lady-Datejust

    The new Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust in yellow or white ROLESOR exudes elegance and distinction. A harmonious marriage of colours and materials, this redesigned classic celebrates the timeless beauty of Rolex precision. The moment is precious, the future full of promise.

    The infinite poetry of gold crystals
    The GOLD CRYSTALS dial of the new Lady-Datejust is an exquisite homage to femininity. Obtained using an exclusive process that magnifies the natural crystal structure of the gold, it captures the light and gleams in an extraordinary play of glistening reflections. Infinite poetry, an invitation to dream. As if by magic, the crystals of the noble metal are revealed in all their splendour, creating incomparable depth that delights the eye. On one particular version of this model, the Rolex JUBILe motif appears in a secret and mysterious filigree, a door opening onto the imaginary. Each GOLD CRYSTALS dial is a work of art in itself, as unique as the lady who wears it.

    Sublime in its delicate design, the version with the ivory coloured dial with a "sunbeam" guilloche pattern enchants with its clean lines, its extreme finesse, its infinite charm.

    The elegance of diamonds
    All the dials of this new interpretation of the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust are graced with 10 diamonds which add to the originality and the subtle radiance of the watch face.

    Entirely gem-set, the bezel brings yet another touch of luxury and elegance. Its 46 brilliant-cut diamonds sparkle like so many invaluable treasures which, at each reading of the time, remind us of their timeless splendour.

    A hymn to femininity
    Feminine down to the last detail, an ode to charm and romanticism, the new Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust embodies absolute grace. It is nonetheless, like all Oyster watches, a waterproof chronometer equipped with a PERPETUAL rotor self-winding mechanical movement. To wear this gem of a watch is to live every moment intensely with the promise of a radiant future.

  • Rolex - Exploring the Explorer II


    WORLDTEMPUS - 25 March 2011


    Approximately 40 years ago Rolex introduced a distinct 40-millimeter watch with extreme sports in mind. "Cave explorers did not know if it was night or day," Justin Hogbin of Rolex smiles as he explains the orange 24-hour hand that originally indicated if it was noon or midnight when the Explorer II was launched in 1971.
    A steel bezel indicating 24 hours supplemented the bright orange hand that Italian watch collectors have nicknamed "freccione" ("big arrow" in Italian). Freccione remains the loving nickname of the original reference 1655 Explorer II of 1971 to this day.


    The Rolex Explorer II has never been the most popular of the otherwise much-loved sports watches by Rolex. It has however been the only model in the sports collection to offer a choice of black or white dial (not accounting for the Daytona range). However, the GMT and Submariner models seemed to overshadow the Explorer, which actually might be a thing of the past now.


    Outshining the siblings
    The new Rolex Explorer II ref. 216570 has grown in diameter from 40 to 42 millimeters. This growth is actually not very noticeable as both the hour markers and the hands have grown proportionally as well.
    Even on the wrist the new Explorer II does not seem oversized compared to the current GMT or Submariner, both of which measure 40 millimeters in diameter. Au contraire: the new Explorer seems to have found its very comfortable place in the sports range of Rolex and will undoubtedly attract new-found attention, which this particular model has not enjoyed for 40 years.

    Slightly new caliber
    On the technical side, the movement does have a new name, Caliber 3187, however it does not differ much from the former caliber, which bears the name 3185, apart from the blue Parachrome hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers.
    The 24-hour hand can be set independently to offer a secondary time zone read. This was not possible on the original model from 1971, but was introduced in 1985 when Reference 16550 took over from Reference 1655. This was the inspiration of this year's best looking new product from Rolex.

    Of course, the new Explorer is fitted with the very comfortable updated Oyster bracelet with the comfortable Easylink extension. This five-millimeter extension, which is part of the bracelet clasp, creates a better fit when skin expands during the summer or in a warm climate.

  • Harry Winston - The Opus Era Continues

    Harry Winston's Opus has become more than a collection of outstanding timepieces. This blend of watchmaking dreams come true tells a story of determination that has turned into a cultural phenomenon, recreated annually by talented people who know how to derive synergy from an equal commitment to art and technology. For the past 10 years, Harry Winston has called on the originality and skills of independent watchmakers to realize its concept of superior watchmaking. For Harry Winston, watches reflect a passionate belief that you can - and must - go beyond the imaginable. Today, the House of Harry Winston is proud to present its 11th Opus, a watch that shatters watchmaking notions to bring you the disintegration of time itself.

    An extremely complex case stages the show. The three overlapping cylinders on three levels are configured to deconstruct time. The main circle is the hour's domain, flanked by two pavilions. One shows the minutes on a jumping disk for the tens and a running disk for the units. The other, slightly lower, displays the regular beat of a big titanium balance-wheel.
    Anarchy takes hold of the hours indication beneath the sapphire-crystal dome every 60 minutes. The numeral of the hour, assembled in the center of the circle, explodes into chaos before instantly reassembling as the new hour. It then remains still until the next disintegration. Instead of a hand, 24 placards revolve and rotate on a complicated system of gears mounted on an epicycloidal gear-train. Four satellites mounted on a rotating platform, each with three pairs of placards, provide a vertical transmission through a train of eight intermediate wheels, three elliptical gears, a triangular wheel and six conical pinions. The bevel gears are responsible for changing the axis of rotation of the placards and positioning them according to an elaborate drill maneuver. The triangular wheel and elliptic gears are calculated to vary the gear ratio to absorb shocks and prevent the placards colliding.
    The tooth profiles of the triangular and elliptical gearing have been obtained using sophisticated programs. These are today so powerful that they can calculate and display unconventional, and even extreme, gearing and analyze different parameters such as backlash. Parts are manufactured using photolithography, which produces micro-components to a precision unobtainable by traditional machining methods.
    The conical pinions for the bevel gears are just 1.2mm wide, yet their teeth are exactly profiled and angled, thanks to a new gear-cutting technique.
    The path taken by the placards has been calculated to minimize the space required for them to turn over. However, the shell of sapphire crystal, also extremely difficult to manufacture, gives ample room for the hourly animation.


    The transparent display back of the gold case reveals a manually wound movement in the style of the old pocket-watch movements with a big balance-wheel. Consisting of 566 components, including 155 jewels, the mechanism is finished in the most traditional manner of classic watchmaking, in sharp contrast to the crazy display of the hour. One version of the watch is gem-set in the contemporary style: a simple line of princess-cut diamonds lights up the contour of the caseband.
    The appointment has been fixed. The hour comes apart at its end, leaving its particles to explode outwards and be turned into new hours ad infinitum. Such complexity and ingenuity make Opus Eleven an important milestone in Harry Winston's exploration of time.
    Limited edition of 111 watches.



    DENIS GIGUET


    Denis Giguet trained as an engineer and started making a name for himself in fine watchmaking. The experience he gained with such firms as Rolex and Harry Winston developed into a visionary approach far in advance of the watchmaking industry. Familiar with the design and construction of highly complicated watches, he worked as production manager at Harry Winston. In 2007 he launched his own brand, MCT, and designed the Sequential One, a far-reaching development in creative engineering for which he involved the crafts of more than 20 experts in their fields. His creative energy has given birth to Opus Eleven, a timepiece where his own vision of time is perfectly expressed by the Harry Winston personality.

  • Carl F. Bucherer - Shop in Shop at Zurich Airport


    Carl F. Bucherer North America is proud to announce the opening of the Bucherer boutique located in the Zurich airport in Switzerland, on March 3, 2011.


    The boutique will be the first of its kind offering Carl F. Bucherer, Bucherer Jewelry and an extensive collection of Rolex watches. These innovative brands come together for the first time ever to showcase some of their finest and most creative designs collectively.


    Carl F. Bucherer and Rolex watches will be displayed in their respective Shop-in-Shop concepts, using their corporate architecture. This exposure for the brand, Carl F. Bucherer, will boost brand awareness around the globe. The store is located on level 1 of Zurich Airport's Airside Center.

  • Book - Rolex Collector Starter

    WORLDTEMPUS - WATCHPRINT offer Rolex collector starter 
    1. Rolex Gallery de Giorgia et Guido Mondani  - More details
    2. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (Manual winding) Nb. 1 Pocket Expert serial by Osvaldo Patrizzi - More details
    3. Rolex Oyster perpetual Cosmograph Daytona (Automatique) Nb. 2 Pocket Expert serial by Osvaldo Patrizzi - More details
    *Free worldwide shipping charge for the 3 books together*

    ORDER BOOK

  • Book - Rolex Gallery


    "Rolex Gallery" is a complete journey through all the vintage and modern models produced by Rolex.
    With new images and updated information, this edition shows from the rarest models to the most dressy ones, to those that represents a dream for watch collectors.

    Every chapter of this book represents a type of Rolex watch:
    Air-King, Bubble Back, Chronographs, Daytona, Explorer, Moon Phases, GMT-Master, Milgauss, Oyster Date, Oyster DateJust, Oyster Day-Date, Oyster No Date, Prince, Quartz, Submariner, Turn-O-Graph and Yacht Master.
    Over 100 different Daytona, 100 Chronographs, 50 GMT-Master, 50 Submariner are showed together with many other watches.
    "Rolex Gallery" also provides the course of Rolex history, focusing on those watches that have made history.
    "Rolex Gallery" is a clear, detailed and updated guide for all those who want to approach and understand the market of Rolex wristwatches.
    This book is within everyone's reach however at the same time represents a useful guide for Rolex collectors.
    Text in Italiano, Français, Deustch, English, Español
    224 Pages • color ill. • Format : 24 x 28.6 cm.
    Price : CHF 195.00 • € 140.00
     

     


    ORDER THE BOOK

  • Antiquorum - Auction in Geneva Achieves CHF 7,006,275


    Geneva - Antiquorum's weekend sale of « Important Vintage and Modern Timepieces » held on Saturday 13th and Sunday 14th of November at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva, realised CHF 7'006'275 with 80% of the lots being sold. This concludes Antiquorum's autumn auction season with a total of CHF 15'922'890.
    In addition to the 339 online bidders, there was a substantial presence in the room as well as numerous telephone bidders. Attendance came from around the world , including Germany, Italy, the United States, Romania, Hong Kong, Taiwan, China, Singapore and Canada.
    "We are very satisfied by the results achieved this weekend in Geneva, in particular with the impressive price obtained for the Everest Rolex of Alfred Gregory", said Julien Schaerer, Managing Director & Auctioneer. "This demonstrates the great interest of collectors for timepieces that not only have historical significance, but also bear great emotional value."


    The top lot of the auction was the extremely rare Patek Philippe Ref. 2499, in Pink Gold (lot 643), which sold for a remarkable CHF 1'082'500. Other Patek Philippe timepieces achieved very good results, including the Ref. 3450 (lot 252), acquired for CHF 212'500 and the Ref. 866/75 in yellow gold (lot 636), with enamel hunting scene on the case back: "Departure of the pack at daybreak" that reached CHF 92'500.
     The Rolex Ref. 6098 (lot 621) worn by Alfred Gregory on Everest during the successful expedition of 1953, drew a lot of attention and excitement among the collectors. After fierce bidding in the room against the phone and internet, this watch of enormous historic significance sold for an exceptional CHF 145'300, more than 5 times its high estimate.
    Another timepiece of great interest, the Quarter-Repeating Navette-Shaped Ring Watch (one of only two known examples) given to The Emperor Napoleon I. (lot 466), reached a remarkable CHF 92'000.
    Girard-Perregaux wristwatches also obtained notable results including the "Opera Two, Tourbillon, Carillon 'Westminster' Minute Repeater with Tourbillon," No. 2, Ref. 99740 (lot 548) that achieved CHF 182'500. The "Vintage 1945 Collection Prestige Set Unique" (lot 547), comprising four exceptional platinum wristwatches, sold for CHF 112'900.
    "Superb complicated modern wristwatches made both by the renowned Manufacturers and the independent artisan makers draw increasing interest amongst a new generation of collectors, seeking exclusive and limited series watches", commented Etienne Lemenager, Director & Watch Expert.
    Omega aficionados were thrilled by the important collection of 40 Limited Edition Omega Speedmasters, property of a private Italian collector. These timepieces evoked great enthusiasm among bidders and achieved the exceptional result of CHF 223,250, with 100% of the lots being sold. Some of the highlights included the "Speedmaster Professional" Apollo XIII Ref. 3450022 (lot 12) which sold for CHF 9'375, the "Speedmaster Professional" 999 Galaxy Train Ref. 3571.50 (lot 25), made especially for the Japanese market which attained CHF 10'000 and the "Speedmaster Professional" Ref. 3570.40 (lot 27), another limited edition for the Japanese market, was acquired for CHF 8'750.
    Finally, the Panerai "Luminor" Ref. 6152/1, made for the Italian military frogmen circa 1950 achieved an outstanding result of CHF 100'900.
    "The Italian bidders have proven once again that they are key players within the European market continuing their traditional great interest for vintage wristwatches, in particular for Patek Philippe, Rolex and Panerai timepieces", said Thomas.

    Results

  • Antiquorum - Important Modern and Vintage Timepieces

    Among the 643 timepieces, Antiquorum is extremely proud to be offering for sale an extremely rare Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 as well as the personal collection of Rolex watches of the legendary 20th century explorer Sir Edmund Hillary. Previews are to be held in Shanghai, Hong Kong, Zhuhai and Geneva.


    The highlight of the sale is the extremely rare Patek Philippe Ref. 2499, Third Series, made in 1971 and sold on June 14, 1972. This 18K pink gold wristwatch with round button chronograph features a 30-minute register, perpetual calendar and moon phases. It is accompanied by a Patek Philippe box and the Extract from the Archives.
    Antiquorum experts are also delighted to present the personal collection of Rolex watches that belonged to Sir Edmund Hillary. These exceptional timepieces have been consigned for sale by Lady Hillary and all had special significance for Sir Edmund.


    The earliest model in this collection is a Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, Officially Certified Chronometer", reference 6084 dating from 1953. This watch was presented to Sir Edmund Hillary by Rolex Bosecks, Calcutta, India after his descent from Everest in honour of his achievement. It was then worn by him during the Trans-Antarctic Expedition of 1955-1958 - the first overland crossing of Antarctica and the first expedition to reach the South Pole since Scott in 1912 - and as such it has immense historic significance. The caseback is engraved "Sir E. Hillary".
    Also part of the collection, the Rolex "Oyster Perpetual Date, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified", REF. 15238. This 18K yellow gold tonneau shaped wristwatch with date was purchased by Sir Edmund Hillary on the 50th Anniversary of the day he reached the summit of Everest, 29th May, 2003. It is accompanied by the original Rolex certificate to Sir Edmund Hillary and a letter of authenticity.
    Naturally the collection also includes both the Rolex Explorer I, reference 1016, made in 1972 - the 20th Anniversary of Sir Edmund Hillary's attempt to climb Cho Oyu from the Nepal side in 1952 (Estimate: 4'000 - 6'000 CHF) and the Explorer II, reference 1655, the so-called "Steve McQueen", made in1973 and bought by Sir Edmund Hillary to commemorate the 20th Anniversary of his ascent of Everest.


    In addition to Sir Edmund's collection of Rolexes, Antiquorum is delighted to offer the Rolex "Oyster Perpetual, Precision", reference 6098 that was worn by Alfred Gregory on Everest during the successful expedition of 1953. Alfred Gregory was the official expedition photographer and this watch has been consigned to Antiquorum by his family. This watch is of enormous historic significance and is likely to present the only opportunity to acquire one of the original Rolex watches that were on Everest in 1953. The caseback is engraved "A. Gregory - Everest 1953" and the watch is accompanied by the Ice Axe used during the Everest expedition, 5 original photos taken by Alfred Gregory during the climb, service letter by Rolex Geneva and a letter of authenticity from Alfred Gregory's wife.
    Also offered at auction, the Patek Philippe Ref. 3450, Third Series, made in 1985. This very rare, self-winding, 18K yellow gold wristwatch features perpetual calendar, moon phases, Roman numerals for the leap year indication. It comes with a wooden fitted box, setting pin, Certificate of Origin and instruction booklet.
    Of interest for the Audemars enthusiast is the Audemars Piguet "Jules Audemars - Repetition Minutes a Quantieme Perpetuel," Ref. 26063 PT., made in 2009. It is an extremely fine and rare, astronomic, minute-repeating, platinum wristwatch with perpetual calendar, leap year indication and moon phases. It is accompanied by the original special fitted wooden box, a piano-shaped wooden box to amplify the sound of the minute repeater, certificate and warranty.
    Another timepiece of great interest is the Quarter-Repeating Navette-Shaped Ring Watch - One of Only Two Known Examples - A Gift to The Emperor Napoleon I. made circa 1810. This exceptional timepiece is attributed to Antoine Rochard, Geneva, the mainspring is signed Marchand and the case engraved "a L'Empereur N". This extremely fine and exceptionally rare, 18K gold, pearl and rose-cut diamond-set ring watch with virgule escapement and visible balance, is one of only two known examples of a quarter-repeating ring watch of navette shape.
    Antiquorum experts are also pleased to offer a collection 40 Omega Speedmaster limited editions, property of a private Italian collector, including the "Speedmaster Professional" Apollo XIII Ref. 3450022, made in a limited series of 999 examples to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Apollo XIII mission in 1995. This stainless steel chronograph bears the Apollo XIII emblem on the subsidiary seconds dial at 9. It comes with the original box, warranty, certificate, instruction booklet, Apollo XIII patch, extra links and booklet.
    AUCTION PREVIEWS
    The timepieces of this auction will be on view as follows:
    SHANGHAI
    Tuesday November 2: 10:30 a.m. - 6:30 p.m.
    Antiquorum Shanghai
    Room 4106B, Bund Centre Office Tower,
    222 Yan An Road East,
    Shanghai 200002, China
    Tel.+86 21 6335 1268
     
    HONG KONG
    Thursday November 4: 11:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
    Antiquorum Auctioneers (HK) Ltd.
    Suite 704, No. 9 Queen's Road Central,
    Hong Kong
    Tel. + 852 2522 4168
     
    ZHUHAI
    Saturday November 6: 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
    Gemdale Eton
    No. 298 Jinyi Road, Xiangzhou District
    Zhuhai
    Tel. + 852 2522 4168
     
    GENEVA
    Wednesday 10 to Friday November 12: 10:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
    Saturday 13 & Sunday November 14: 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
    Antiquorum's Showroom
    2, rue du Mont-Blanc
    1201 Geneva, Switzerland
    Tel.+ 41 (0)22 909 28 50 - Fax. +41 (0)22 909 28 60
    Email: geneva@antiquorum.com
     
    AUCTION: Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces
    Saturday, November 13
    Session 1: lots 1 - 252 at 2:00 p.m.
    Sunday, November 14
    Session 2: lots 253 - 643 at 2:00 p.m.
    Mandarin Oriental Hotel du Rhône
    Salon Saint-Gervais - quai Turrettini 1, 1201 Geneve
    Tel.+ 41 (0)22 909 00 00 - Fax +41 (0)22 909 00 10

  • Arcadia - Rebirth of the Brand


    Swiss watchmaking has continued to reinvent itself throughout the centuries as Swiss craftsmen, inspired by their passion and love of tradition, strive to enhance their precision expertise.
    Maison Bunter, one of the leading specialists in major complications and jewel-setting, has been fired by such passion for some 155 years. Today Bunter is proud to present Arcadia: an innovative watchmaking concept that rises to the challenge of reviving one of the greatest emblems of Switzerland's watchmaking heritage.


    During the 19th century the Arcadia brand was the symbol of Swiss watchmaking excellence and the standard-bearer of the celebrated Fleurier Watch Company, whose creative approach would inspire generations of watchmakers. Now, after falling victim to the 'quartz revolution,' Arcadia, and its incredibly avant-garde models, are being reborn under Bunter President Claude Sanz - a passionate devotee of watchmaking history.
    This new adventure, imbued with unfettered imagination, offers a fresh approach to communicating the values of traditional Swiss watchmaking around the world.

    HISTORY
    1858 - 1970 : Arcadia

    In the early 19th century Swiss watchmaking - hitherto a craftsman's activity - enjoyed one of its earliest industrial booms.
    Thanks to Edouard Bovet, one of the first watchmakers to target the Far Eastern market, the number of watchmakers in Fleurier (a village in the Val-de-Travers near Neuchâtel) more than tripled inside 30 years.
    Jules-Samuel Jequier, who was born in the village in 1835, chose to devote his life to watchmaking from an early age. He joined Bovet in 1856 after training as a jewel-cutter and, thanks to his enthusiasm and entrepreneurial zest, rose swiftly through the firm's ranks.
    Later, helped by his five sons, Jules-Samuel Jequier founded the Fleurier Watch Company, a manufacturer devoted to jewel-cutting and designing watch calibres. The growth of the watchmaking industry would inspire the Jequiers to launch a number of different watchmaking brands.
    Among them: Arcadia.


    rcadia was founded in 1858 and became the flagship of the Fleurier Watch Company. The classically-inspired Fleurier brand enjoyed great renown among connoisseurs of quality watches, epitomized by names like Breitling and Rolex.
    Arcadia watches displayed amazing creativity for the time.
    This avant-garde brand produced some particularly stylish collections, typified by some of its early 20th century models - symbols of Swiss ancestral tradition imbued with modern, indeed contemporary, vision.
    But the arrival of quartz was to be the downfall for many Swiss watchmakers, who failed to realize the importance of the 1970s electronic revolution. Swiss mechanical watches were left behind by cheap, mass-produced, electronic watches from abroad. The resultant economic crisis lasted 15 years and threatened the entire sector, coming close to completely destroying traditional Swiss watchmaking.
    Many Swiss watchmaking firms were forced to close, taking with them the brands which had underpinned their success. Arcadia was no exception and, over a century after its launch by the Fleurier Watch Company, sank into oblivion.


    2010 : Rebirth of Arcadia

    Arcadia represents the crowning glory to an exceptional career and the fulfilment of a dream for a man to whom watchmaking is far more than a job. Claude Sanz cuts a unique figure in the watchmaking world: a trained geologist and mineralogist, as well as an expert in setting and mechanical complications.
    Nearly forty years ago Sanz acquired Bunter, a firm specializing in the cutting of industrial stones and rubies needed for watchmaking. Today, thanks to their mastery of invisible settings and de luxe, made-to-measure projects, Bunter are recognized by all the pre-eminent Swiss watchmaking firms.
    For Sanz, work is a passion: a passion for timepieces, for horological savoir-faire and for watchmaking history. It is also a dream... one he has secretly entertained for many years, to blend his skill and experience with the launch of a watchmaking brand that would write the final chapter of a story that began 35 years ago.
    "When you make watch components, you inevitably think about creating your own brand," says Sanz.
    But his ambition goes further. As a keen historian, he dreams of pursuing the mission of a Swiss watchmaking firm in the purest mechanical tradition - albeit one adapted to the contemporary era.
    In the 1990s Claude Sanz learnt about the incredible story of the Fleurier Watch Company and its star brand, Arcadia. He was fascinated by this forgotten watchmaking venture, and promptly decided to take over the Arcadia brand - which had fallen into the public domain - and revive its century-old traditions. "Arcadia calibres were highly innovative for the time, and the Fleurier Watch Company was considered an international ambassador of Swiss watchmaking," he explains. Today the industry is witnessing a return to small mechanical movements, so Arcadia is perfect for the 21st century! It's the start of a whole new adventure.
    The Arcadia renaissance is underway. With Bunter's structural and technical support, Claude Sanz has set about renovating each Arcadia calibre in the purest watchmaking tradition, inserting them into modern cases with sleek designs, made using the latest avant-garde technologies and materials.
    A combination of the richness of the past and the boldness of the future, Arcadia aims to showcase and perpetuate an exceptional, time-honoured, heritage on the international scene - and restore the prestige of a watchmaking symbol that was the pride of Switzerland for over a hundred years.


    AC01 : Transcending tradition
    With its modern, virile look, the first re-edition of the Arcadia collection strides confidently into the 21st century - while retaining the utmost respect for watchmaking's greatest traditions.


    This can be seen in the powerful design of this audaciously restyled retro model. While retaining its DNA - rounded shapes for the watch and displays within a tonneau case - the Arcadia AC01 has been entirely redesigned in line with today's technical codes. This new design approach is one of extremes: the watch combines harmonious volumes with aggressive elegance, with visible screws and push-pieces reworked to appear part of the case.
    The watch is made from such avant-garde materials as titanium (for the case), carbon (for the split-level dial), and anti-allergenic technological fibre (for the strap), married to watchmaking functions that evoke the awesome savoir-faire of the Fleurier Watch Company: the hour-and-minute display in the centre of the dial is surrounded by four skillfully juxtaposed sub-dials with original, extra functions (including chronograph, date and 24-hour time-zone index). The automatic movement, with 18-carat pink gold rotor, can be admired through a transparent case-back.
    Watchmaking tradition transcended! The watch is edited in a limited series of 275, and offered for sale with a revolutionary concept ideally suited to the era of new technologies: much in the manner of an iPhone or iPad, all data linked to the model (guarantee, aftersale service, orders for further timepieces) is entered on a USB key given to the owner and activated on-line at time of purchase.
    Another novelty: each Arcadia model comes with a travelling case in supple, ultra-resistant neoprene for easy transport and maximum protection.

  • Rolex - The Mentors and their Proteges


    MUSIC
    Ben Frost (Australia) chosen by mentor Brian Eno (United Kingdom)


    Australian composer, producer and musician Ben Frost, 30, is recognized for his music that is at once compelling, mystifying, disturbing and beautiful. In 2005, after receiving a degree in fine arts in Melbourne, Frost relocated across the world to Reykjavik, Iceland, where he co-founded the Bedroom Community record label.
    His genre-defying work, influenced as much by Classical Minimalism as by Punk Rock and Metal, includes three emotionally powerful and critically acclaimed albums: Steel Wound (2003), Theory of Machines (2007) and By the Throat (2009). Frost's multidisciplinary collaborations linked him with renowned choreographers Gideon Obarzanek, Erna Ómarsdottír and Wayne McGregor, and with artists as diverse as Amiina, Tim Hecker, Nico Muhly and Björk. He is currently composing the score for the forthcoming massive multiplayer online game, World of Darkness, and working on several commissions for film and dance, including a reworking of Tarkovsky's Solaris and music for the new Random Dance production, Flesh in the Age of Reason.



    VISUEL ARTS

    Nicholas Hlobo (South Africa) chosen by mentor Anish Kapoor (United Kingdom)


    "In my works I celebrate being South African. I look at my ethnic identity, gender identity and colonial heritage," says 34-year-old visual artist Nicholas Hlobo. Since graduating with a degree in Fine Art from the then Technikon Witwatersrand in Johannesburg, in 2002, Hlobo has demonstrated the singularity of his artistic vision at group and solo shows from Cape Town to Rome and Boston. "The ideas he explores are as deliberate and dense as the stitches he uses to unite his signature materials - rubber, gauze and paper," observes Kerryn Greenberg, assistant curator at London's Tate Modern where, in 2008, Hlobo exhibited four works, entitled Uhambo, at the Level 2 Gallery for emerging international artists.
    The distinctive use of evocative materials is a hallmark of Hlobo's sculptural installations and performances, which are rooted in his native Xhosa culture and language. Among his most recent successes, he won the prestigious 2009 Standard Bank Young Artist Award for Visual Arts.


    DANCE

    Lee Serle (Australia), chosen by mentor Trisha Brown (United States)


    A naturally gifted dancer and fledgling choreographer, Lee Serle, 28, is a much sought after performer in his native Australia. Since receiving a bachelor of dance degree from Melbourne's prestigious Victorian College of the Arts in 2003, he has contributed to the work of several, mainly Melbourne-based, companies, notably Lucy Guerin Inc and Chunky Move, with which he has performed both nationally and internationally.
    His choreographic credits include A Little Murky, a small-scale piece that experiments with subtle characterization and showcases his powerful and theatrical style, and I'm in Love, for the Next Wave Festival in Melbourne. Serle relishes the Rolex mentorship as a "oncein- a-lifetime opportunity" of extending himself under the tutelage of such a "seminal influence" as Trisha Brown. "The chance of becoming a dance artist in New York is a personal goal," adds Serle, whom Brown describes as a dancer of "tremendous promise", ready to expand his horizons internationally.


    FILM
    Annemarie Jacir (Palestinia) chosen by mentor Zhang Yimou (China)


    Annemarie Jacir, 36, a visionary, Palestinian film director and poet living in Jordan, was named one of Filmmaker magazine's 25 New Faces of Independent Cinema in 2004, a year after graduating with a Master's in Fine Arts from New York's Columbia University.
    Co-founder of the Dreams of a Nation project, dedicated to promoting Palestinian cinema, Jacir deftly incorporates a nuanced analysis of cultural and political issues in her films, including like twenty impossibles (2003), an Official Selection of the Cannes Cinefondation. Her widely acclaimed debut feature, Salt of this Sea (2008), the first feature film by a female Palestinian director, premiered at Cannes and was an Academy Award submission for Best Foreign Language Film. It also won the FIPRESCI International Critics' Prize. Currently working on a new feature, Jacir cites Zhang Yimou's Raise the Red Lantern as a source of inspiration. "Films that I find the most inspiring are about the human spirit," she says.


    LITERATURE
    Tracy K Smith (United States) chosen by mentor Hans Magnus Enzensberger (Germany)
    An exciting new voice in American poetry, Tracy K. Smith, 38, has won recognition for her powerfully wrought poems treating themes from loss and passion to politics. Smith received degrees from Harvard and Columbia universities before becoming a fellow at Stanford and taking on various teaching positions. Since 2005, she has been assistant professor of creative writing at Princeton.
    Her two critically acclaimed poetry collections, The Body's Question (2003), winner of the Cave Canem Prize for the best first book by an African-American poet, and Duende (2007), recipient of the James Laughlin Award of the Academy of American Poets, will be followed in 2011 by her recently completed, "largely elegiac" Life on Mars. "Tracy is at precisely that point in her career when she would benefit substantially from having what she 'knows' challenged by a sense of the 'unknown' that a mentor would bring to the table," says Pulitzer prizewinning poet Paul Muldoon.

    THEATRE


    Maya Zbib (Lebanon) chosen by mentor Peter Sellars (United States)

    For over a decade, Lebanese actor, writer and aspiring director Maya Zbib has been impressing critics with her subtle portrayals in widely diverse roles. The multi-genre work of the 29-year-old bridges theatre and performance by marrying the two practices through a variety of techniques.
    Having acquired a Master's in Performance Making in 2007 from Goldsmiths, University of London, Zbib has created and performed in solo work, including The Music Box, a performance-installation staged in people's houses and showcased at international festivals. She currently comanages Beirut's Zoukak Theatre Company and Cultural Association, which she co-founded in 2006, and also teaches at Lebanese University's Institute of Fine Arts. In 2009, she was invited to participate in the British Council's Cultural Leadership International programme. Dedicated to theatremaking that has an impact on society, Zbib says: "I am very inspired by Mr Sellars' advocacy of theatre as a force for change."

    The Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative
    The Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative is an international philanthropic programme devised by Rolex and run by a team at the company's headquarters in Geneva. It seeks out highly talented young artists from around the world and brings them together with great masters for a year of creative collaboration in a one-to-one mentoring relationship.
    History and objectives
    The Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative was launched in June 2002. It runs biennially and is now beginning its fifth cycle (2010-2011). Its objective is to help perpetuate the world's artistic heritage. In keeping with its tradition of supporting individual excellence, Rolex is giving emerging artists time to learn, create and grow.
    Programme format
    Rolex invites masters in dance, film, literature, music, theatre and the visual arts to provide individual guidance to gifted young artists. In six disciplines, a senior artist (the mentor) agrees to foster and counsel a young artist (the protege) for one year. Each pair decides the most effective way of interacting.
    Selection of mentors
    Every two years, a new Advisory Board of distinguished artists and arts practitioners suggests and endorses potential mentors. Once the mentors have been approached and have agreed to take part, Rolex works with them to establish a profile of the protege they would like to work with.
    Selection of proteges
    Then, six Nominating Panels - one panel per discipline - are assembled. The panels are made up of experts qualified to identify suitable potential proteges. To ensure that the process is impartial, panel members remain anonymous during the selection period. Artists do not apply directly to the programme. Each Nominating Panel recommends potential proteges, who are then invited by Rolex to submit applications. The Nominating Panel studies all the applications and recommends three finalists. The entire process has an invaluable spin-off, as it allows the panellists to become aware of about 20 talented young people in their field. Rolex then arranges for the mentor to meet the finalists and choose his or her protege.
    Year of mentoring
    Mentors and proteges spend a minimum of six weeks together, though many spend considerably more time sharing knowledge and experience. The place and time of these interactions are arranged by mutual agreement. The form of the interaction is flexible, ranging from a protege being granted access to a master at work, to mentor and protege actually collaborating on a work. During the year, Rolex keeps in contact with the mentors and proteges to provide logistical support as required.

    Protege grant

    Each protege receives a grant of US$25,000 during the mentoring year, in addition to money to cover travel and other major expenses. Proteges are also eligible to receive a further $25,000 after the year is over. This is offered specifically towards the creation of a new piece of work, a publication, a performance or public event.
    Documentation
    To help give exposure to both the proteges and the programme, Rolex documents the year of mentoring in a publication and a film. A website - rolexmentorprotege.com - also describes the programme.
    Outcome
    After the mentoring year is over, Rolex continues to keep in touch with the proteges, following their careers with interest. The outcome for proteges varies: a new novel, a new stage production, a dancing career with the mentor's company and a collaborative artwork with the mentor are all examples of proteges' achievements through the programme. However, Rolex is aware that the full benefits of the programme for many of the young artists may continue far into the future.

    Global creative community

    Since the launch, in 2002, of the Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative, 256 artists, arts leaders and other cultural luminaries have participated in the programme. This includes 67 advisors who have helped select mentors and 147 nominators who have identified potential proteges. Programme participants contribute from across the globe, building a Rolex community of artists spanning more than 40 countries that grows in depth and scope with each mentoring year.

  • Communication - Share the Passion!

    23rd July 2009 - www.fratellowatches.com

    As a watch aficionado, I am very thankful to the initiators of the early online communities like WatchUseek and TimeZone. Not only for providing so much information on watches in an era (late 1990s) that wasn't as advanced as it is now (with all the web 2.0 initiatives like Facebook, LinkedIn and of course watch portals like WorldTempus), but also for the many watch friends it brought.


    Post-2003, watch forums have been popping up like mushrooms and everybody seems to have his/her own preferences. Besides the giants mentioned before, there are several low-profile forums focused on just a few or even one single brand. The advantage of these smaller communities is that the crowd knows each other, laid back tone of voice and fewer rules than at the larger watch communities. However, a new member can easily think he ended up in a digital Cheers bar ("where everybody knows your name."). Also, the downside of a smaller watch community is that the learning curve becomes less and less steep after a while. Discussions will probably end-up in joking around instead of watch content. Content is king, but you will need enough traffic to keep it alive and interesting.



    One of the watch communities that have gained great respect amongst collectors and aficionados is the German based R-L-X forum, also known as 'Das Rolex Forum'. Although German based, there are a few subforums available in English, so everybody is able to participate in this community. There is a lot of knowledge in this forum, and the tone of voice is very friendly. It is actually so friendly, that it seems that a lot of members have become personal friends. Looking in their Get-ToGether subforum, you'll see that there are almost monthly meetings across all of (mainly) Germany and Austria.



    I think that R-L-X left off where the famous Paneristi community ended. The Paneristi forums have been on-line for quite some years now, and it is a great community, but it seems that technology-wise, they didn't improve. There is only little interaction on building a b knowledge base and just minor efforts to keep up with new technology and web applications. However, if you are interested in Panerai watches, it is definitely the place to start.
    Regardless of your preference for certain watch brands or types (dive-/pilot-/military watches etc.), our common interest in them enables us to create great platforms to share knowledge and even more important, share our passion with each other. Since those first days at the online watch communities, I have made great friends throughout the years. Not only people in my own country, but from all around the globe. Wherever I go in the world, there seems to be always another watch aficionado in my network of watch friends who offers me a coffee, beer or even diner. I think this is the best part of being a watch nut, sharing passion with a lot of (different) people.
    I can't imagine collecting watches would be as fun as it is now without sharing the passion through online communities!

  • Haute Horlogerie - South America, a small but steady market

    HH Magazine - # 29, July-August 2009


    To judge by its depiction in what Americans call "B Movies", South America would either be a jungle where cigar-smoking drug lords shoot at each other or an endless carnival where women in bikinis dance on a beach while their boyfriends play football. Though one may, in fact, run into scenes like this at some locations, the sub-continent is really made up of many different countries that represent a small but steady portion of the Haute Horlogerie market.
    Brazil, the "B" in BRIC (the acronym for "Brazil, Russia, India, China", the four most rapidly-developing economies in the world), is both the largest and most populated country. Whereas most South Americans tend to calculate any local price in terms of its equivalent in US dollars, Brazilians prefer to think in terms of their own currency. Maybe it's because they're the only ones who speak Portuguese or, more probable, because they are the most powerful in terms of their economy (their many FIFA World Cup wins also contribute to their national pride, by the way).
    Brazilians have a rich tradition in jewelry, and their top brand, H. Stern, has worldwide reach. The Haute Horlogerie market, on the other hand, is relatively less developed. It is, however a larger market for the sport elegance and sport technique segments: Brazil is Rolex's ber market in the area, and at this point, the brand making more progress seems to be Breitling, who has recently opened a local branch. And even with the ongoing crisis, other well-established names like Omega also manage to show reasonable numbers.

    Read more...

  • Rolex - L'Oyster Perpetual Datejust II Rolesor



    Created sixty years ago, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust Rolesor is the world's most recognized and recognizable watch, if not the standard-bearer of an art de vivre. Impervious to the vagaries of fashion, it remains eternally modern. And the new Datejust II Rolesor for men and the Datejust Rolesor 36 mm for ladies, with gem-set bezel, are the proof.
    Subtly redesigned over time, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust Rolesor, archetype of timeless luxury, embraces all the latest watchmaking innovations to meet the most demanding technological requirements.
    The history of this must-have masterpiece of contemporary watchmaking is rooted in the rich heritage of Rolex timepieces. It is the fruit of the Oyster, the first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex in 1926. The movement of the watch receives its energy from the Perpetual rotor, the first self-winding mechanism with a free rotor, created in 1931. The Datejust made its debut in 1945, its name inspired by the date displayed in a window on the watch dial.
    The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Rolesor is the hallmark of the Rolex brand. Precise, waterproof, self-winding, this officially-certified Swiss chronometer with date display is crafted with only the noblest of materials and assembled with the greatest of care.

  • Antiquorum - First Spring Auction in Geneva

    Antiquorum, the world's leading watch auctioneer, is pleased to announce its upcoming 'Important Collector's Wristwatches, Pocket Watches, Clocks and Horological Tools' sale on March 28 & 29, 2009 at the Grand Hotel Kempinski in Geneva. This auction will occur during Baselworld 09, which attracts the most prestigious watch manufacturers and jewelers in the world. The auction, featuring 481 lots, brings together a remarkable selection of the finest timepieces by world-renowned watchmakers.

    Highlights of this spring auction include two very rare Patek Philippe watches that represent milestones in the history of the brand, respectively Ref. 1518 in 18K pink gold with a special dial with enamel numerals, estimated between 600,000 and 800,000 SFr. and a Ref. 2499/100 in 18K yellow gold made in only 349 examples, estimated at 280,000-350,000 SFr.

    The Collection of an Italian Gentleman is certain to attract attention, as it is a very interesting private collection of about 30 Rolex wristwatches highlighting the most significant watches made by Rolex since the 1940's.

    Furthermore, in celebration of the Antiquorum's 35th anniversary, the Geneva 2009 catalogues take on a new look. Their special covers, designed by exceptional artists and photographers recognized for their unique creativity and interest in horology, highlight the excitement and elegance of extraordinary watches. In the spring catalogue, well-known French photographer Gilles Pernet brings his own personal vision to illuminate one of the exceptional watches from the auction.

    The watches will be shown in Tokyo, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Geneva.

    Saturday March 28 and Sunday March 29, 2009 Grand Hotel Kempinski, Geneva

    Highlights of the March Geneva Sale   

    Patek Philippe, Geneve, Ref. 1518, 1st series. Made in 1946, sold on October 21st. 1947.


    Very fine and extremely rare, 18K pink gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar, moon phases, square button chronograph, register and tachometer, fitted with an 18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle.
    Probably unique, due to the enamel numeral dial.

    This watch is an exceptional example of the signature complications made by Patek Philippe at the time. Patek was the first brand to produce perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatches in series.

    Estimate: 600.000/800.000 SFr
                 
            
    Patek Philippe, la Ref. 2499-100. Made in 1980, sold on June 30th, 1980.


    Very fine and extremely rare, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, 30-minute register, perpetual calendar, moon phases and fitted with an 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle.

    This watch is the last variation of the above-mentioned complication. It is the last reference produced by Patek Philippe in a very small production series.

    Estimate: 280.000/350.000 Sfr
                 
            
    Jaeger-LeCoultre, "Gyrotourbillon 1", N. 46/75. Made in a limited edition of 75 pieces from 2005.

    Exceptional and highly complicated, large, water-resistant, 8-day going platinum wristwatch with visible inclined lightweight two-cage multi-axis spherical tourbillon Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 177, two barrels with sapphire covers, "marchante" equation of time, perpetual calendar with retrograde month indication.

    Estimate: 300.000/400.000 Sfr
                 
            
    Audemars Piguet. Limited Edition No. 8 - Maserati Anniversary - Millenary MC12 Tourbillon & Chronograph.

    Made in a limited edition of 150 pieces in 2006 to commemorate the success of the Maserati MC12 in the 2005 FIA GT Manufacturers' Cup, sold on December 24, 2006.
    Extremely fine and very rare, oval, platinum wristwatch with twin white gold and palladium alloy barrels, black carbon movement with blue anodized aluminum bridges, 10-day power reserve, visible one-minute tourbillon regulator, oval-button chronograph, register, tachometer and a platinum Audemars Piguet deployant clasp.

    Estimate: 200.000/300.000 Sfr

    These last two models demonstrate the important revival of mechanical watches in the 21st century, highlighting cutting-edge technology
     
                 
            
    Rolex, Ref. 6270/6263, "Cosmograph, Oyster avec diamants baguette". Made in 1985.


    Extremely rare and very fine, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, bezel set with 28 baguette diamonds. The dial is set with 240 diamonds and nine sapphires, and fitted with an 18K yellow gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet.
    One of the rarest Daytona Cosmograph references.

    Estimate: 100.000/150.000 Sfr.
                 
            
    Rolex, Ref. 1665 "Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller". Made especially in 1972 for the Sultan Qaboos bin Said of Oman, and retailed by Asprey (London retailer).


    Very fine and extremely rare, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with gas-escape valve, date and a stainless steel Oyster "Fliplock" bracelet.

    This is a very rare variation of the Red Sea-Dweller that will raise a lot of interest among collectors and aficionados of the model.

    Estimate: 50.000/70.000 Sfr

     The Collection of an Italian Gentleman:


         
    Rolex, Ref. 6541 "Oyster Perpetual, Milgauss, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified". Made in 1958.


    Very fine and extremely rare, anti-magnetic, water-resistant, center seconds, self-winding, stainless steel wristwatch with straight seconds hand, honeycomb dial and a stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet.

    Estimate: 90.000/130.000 Sfr
               
            
    Ref. 8171, "Padellone" N°66 Rolex, "Perpetual, Precision". Made in 1950.


    Extremely fine and rare, self-winding, 18K pink gold chronometer wristwatch with triple date, moon phases and fitted with an 18K pink gold Rolex buckle.

    The reference 8171 is one of the most sought-after. It was produced from 1949-1952 in 18K yellow and pink gold as well as in stainless steel. The excellent un-restored condition of the present watch, including the interior of the case back, gives the collector an excellent opportunity to better understand Rolex production techniques.

    Estimate: 180.000/260.000 Sfr
                 
            
    Rolex, "Oyster, Chronographe, Serpico Y Laino, Anti-magnetique", Ref. 6234. Made in 1954 and retailed by Serpico Y Laino (a retailer in Caracas, Venezuela).

    Very fine and equally rare, tonneau-shaped, water-resistant, 14K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, telemeter and tachometer and a polished and brushed 14K yellow gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet.

    Estimate: 80.000/120.000 Sfr
                 
            
    Rolex, Ref. 1680 "Oyster, Perpetual Date, Submariner, 200m/660ft, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified". Made in 1974 for the Fuerza Aerea del Perù.


    Very fine and extremely rare tropical red military submariner with Meter First, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date and a stainless steel special riveted Fliplock bracelet.

    Estimate: 30.000/50.000 Sfr

Rolex Automatic

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