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Rolex Day-Date II Brown Wave Dial Automatic 18kt Rose Gold President Men's Watch 218235BRWAP

I really loved this Rolex Day-Date II Brown Wave Dial Automatic 18kt Rose Gold President Men's 218235BRWAP watch. Beautiful workmanship, but it was simply too large. I was disappointed to have to return it. If it were smaller, I'd buy it for sure.

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Conall L, From Saudi Arabia Dhahran

Rolex GMT-Master II Black Automatic stainless steel and 18kt yellow gold Men's Watch116713BKSO

I had to send it back because of fit, it also was hard for me to see the time. But it was so gorgeous.

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Jung-Chen Chuang, From Spain Santa Coloma

Rolex Datejust Brown Dial Automatic Stainless Steel and 18K Yellow Gold Men's 116203BRAJ

GREAT!!!!!!!!!!! A+++++++++++++++ seller

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Nichola McLaren, From Colucci Tampa

Telling the difference between a Carrera and a Daytona is easy, as is spotting an Aqua Terra from a Terra Luna. You don't even need the brand names to help you. But what about the new collections by Emile Chouriet and Ernest Borel, two Swiss brands with a presence in Hong Kong and China that is difficult to conceive unless you have been there and seen the giant billboards that dominate the skyline. The two new models presented today on WorldTempus both embody the ultra-classic style that appeals to the Chinese consumer, combined of course with an affordable Swiss Made calibre. They go to show that at a certain price point buyers are definitely making their choices based on looks rather than brand or collection names.

Inspired by a photo showing 18 Rolex Submariner "Comex" watches on the Internet, David Chokron offers some interesting insights into the notion of exclusivity in watchmaking. Can a one-thousand-piece limited edition (not to mention a 15,007-piece one) really be considered as exclusive?

Our build-up to the GPHG 2015 officially starts this week as Camille Gendre takes a look back over 14 years of Aiguille d'Or winners. Will she find a pattern that could give a hint about this year's winner? We will continue over the coming weeks with a look at the members of the 2015 jury and some interviews with previous winners.

The boutique was open for three months ending on September 1, in time to take advantage of the summer tourist season. In a crisp decor bathing in the signature black and white colors of Coco Chanel, the boutique showcased some of the house's iconic models, immortalized by the talents of the photographer Patrick Demarchelier who shot Chanel's most recent publicity campaign titled "L'Instant Chanel."

The boutique offered museum visitors, on their way to see Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa, a chance to admire Chanel's new J12-365, the new Premiere with its triple row bracelet, and the J12 Blue Light, a version of the J12 in white "hi-tech" ceramic and luminescent blue numerals.

"The idea of the pop-up store was a reference to 1987 when we first opened a boutique dedicated to watches on Avenue Montaigne that launched a new era in watchmaking for Chanel," said Nicolas Beau, international director of Chanel Horlogerie. "Our goal has always been to make beautiful watches where mechanics are at the service of aesthetics," Mr. Beau said.

For a brand that places a high value on creativity and aesthetics, the enclosure of Musee du Louvre, one of France's most revered cultural venues, offers the means to combine the experience of a luxury boutique with that of an art museum. For Chanel, it is a means to intimate the association between luxury and cultural heritage, inscribing its luxury products in the long-term tradition of culture.

"The appeal of Chanel's products is their lasting appeal," Mr. Beau explained.  "The Chanel no. 5 perfume has been around since 1921. It is not a trend-based product. The same is true of the little black dress and the quilted Chanel bag."

The relationship to art allows luxury products to acquire the characteristics of art by association, including uniqueness, legitimacy and permanence. "Chanel makes products that last and remain desirable," Mr. Beau said. "Few luxury brands have a portfolio of products with an endless lifetime. That is what lives in the Chanel name and was invented by Gabriel Chanel."

Over the years, Chanel has experimented with the idea of connecting art to its luxury products. In 2008, for instance, it commissioned the Mobile Art Pavilion, a 700-square meter futuristic structure designed by the Pritzker-award winning architect, Zaha Hadid, filled with works commissioned from 20 international contemporary artists asked to interpret the brand's iconic quilted 2.55 handbag, the black, stitched-leather purse designed by Coco Chanel in 1955.

Establishing a presence, ephemeral or not, in close proximity to the Louvre, a prime international cultural destination, also enables luxury brands to benefit from the rising trend in cultural tourism.

Last year, the Louvre welcomed 9.3 million visitors making it not just the most visited attraction in Paris, but also the most visited museum in the world, ahead of the British Museum in London (with 6.7 million visitors) and the Metropolitan Museum in New York (with 6.3 million visitors), according to figures published last April by the Art Newspaper.  

According to Paolo de Cesare, Le Printemps's president, a luxury goods department in the commercial area of the museum enables tourists to satisfy their two principal reasons for being there, luxury shopping and culture.  

The Louvre expects attendance numbers to rise by 30 percent over the next decade, forecasting some 12 million visitors by 2025. Le Printemps du Louvre estimates its revenues to top €20 million this year alone.

 A number of high-end watch brands including Chopard, Rolex, Montblanc, Hermes and Parmigiani are already present in the Carrousel du Louvre. With the 2014 edition of the Salon des Belles Montres set to take place in the same venue next November, the list is likely to grow.

Richard Mille calls his watches "a racing machine on the wrist". A tagline undoubtedly inspired not only by his personal interest in fast cars (Mille often races his own 1970 Lola), but also by his interest in exotic materials generally used in contexts such as the F1 industry. Your correspondent would now like to offer an extension to that tagline: "A racing machine on the wrist that makes otherwise reasonable people stop and gawk, want to make friends with you or upgrade your hotel room".

Borrowed feathers
I left the SIHH 2014 with an impressive titanium RM11-01 Roberto Mancini on my wrist, along with a pair of "mechanical" cufflinks, also in titanium. They were obviously not mine to keep, as I do not have Euro 114,500 in my timepiece account, nor the Euro 12,500 needed for the cufflinks (in fact I don't have a cufflinks account at all). Instead I wore the RM11-01 as borrowed feathers - but what borrowed feathers they turned out to be!

Once I got back home I started Instagram'ing this impressive watch and my Facebook account also featured many daily shots of the watch "in action". The response from social media circles was overwhelming. Strangers PM'd me asking if they could pop by my office just to see the watch, and I have a b suspicion that people showed up to my lectures just to get up-close-and-personal with the Richard Mille on my wrist.

The RM11-01 is a thing to behold. The distinct curvex and industrial looking case has been a trademark design of Richard Mille since the first model, RM001, was introduced in 2001. This particular model on my wrist, the Felipe Massa RM11, has been a success ever since it was originally launched in 2007 and can rightfully be considered the most popular of the contemporary range.

Do not however expect any extra attention if wearing the RM11-01 when horseback riding in outer Mongolia, or spelunking in Bulgaria. Richard Mille is not a carpet bomber; his distribution is very focused on key urban markets.

This of course is quite understandable as Richard Mille only produces 3,000 watches a year, and with an entry level of euro 43,000 (for the titanium RM07) to 1.4 million (for the elusive RM05601 with a sapphire case), it is a watch brand for the 1%. Unless of course you live in Dubai, where a Richard Mille is the horological equivalent of the soup of the day on the wrist of the Arab businessmen in their crisp, white disdasha. In these parts of the world a steel Rolex DateJust gets as much attention as last year's second runner-up of Dubai Has Talent. The glitterati of the Emirates get a diamond-crusted Rolex as their first timepiece, and have probably collected a complete set of Patek Philippe Nautilus models by the time their voice breaks.

The Nicholson of horology
A Richard Mille watch is for the guys (and gals) who have been around and who have tried and collected most high-end watch brands already. Their collections are already full of tourbillons, minute repeaters, probably including quite a few made by independent watchmakers, such as Christophe Claret, F. P. Journe and Kari Voutilainen.

Richard Mille may belong to the same crowd of young and indie watch brands, but he stands out. I see him as the Jack Nicholson of contemporary horology due to his laid-back personality and irresistible joie de vivre. His watches more powerfully represent sex, rock n' roll, fast cars and an exuberant lifestyle than anybody else.

Funnily enough the functions of Richard Mille watches are actually met with less interest than those of the competitors in the same price range, even though several of them offer fascinating functions such as a declutchable rotor, torque indicator and G-Force sensor, as well as a E6-B flight computer.

Nobody actually asked me about the functions of the RM11-01. A few asked about the choice of colors and nodded knowingly when I told them the model was named after a famous (former) Manchester City manager who is now managing Turkish Super Lig club Galatasaray. I got the distinct impression the watch could have been right only twice a day, and nobody would have noticed: it's the name on the dial and the lifestyle buzz that gets the pulse up.

But let´s sober up for a moment, ignore the sex appeal, and look at what this watch actually does.

The specs of the RM11-01
The automatic caliber RMAC1 inside the titanium case of the RM11-1 Roberto Mancini offers the standard functions of this model, such as flyback chronograph and annual calendar. Additionally, and in order to meet Mancini's demands, this model also offers a dial design that makes it possible to display football match time based on a two times 45-minute match while taking account of the 15-minute stoppage time.

During each half, a single press on the push-piece at "4" activates the flyback function, zero-setting the chronograph seconds hand which is thus ready to start timing the second half of the match. If extra time is awarded, the watch displays an additional 15 minutes and up to 5 minutes of stoppage time.

Functions and football reference aside, the RM11-01 procured me a somewhat unexpected pleasure while wearing it. I had strangers compliment my watch, floor managers expecting me to throw down a black Amex card to buy half the stock and hotel staff giving me extra attention when I was checking in (not when checking out as I turned out to not splash money everywhere I went). In conclusion, owning a watch from Richard Mille collection is what it feels like to park a slick luxury car outside a crowded cafe and step into it with a leggy blonde holding your hand: all eyes on you. And that thing on your arm.

On 13 May 2013, Christie's Geneva will present its Spring auction of Important Watches. The sale is expected to achieve in excess of US$15 million.

Christie's is particularly proud to announce the highlight of the sale: a newly rediscovered, historically important and probably unique, white gold, perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases and leap-year, ref. 3448, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1981, which carries a pre-sale estimate of SFr.800,000-1,400,000 (US$850,000-1,500,000/ €670,000-1,200,000).

The rich and varied catalogue will also include the most valuable and historically important selection of vintage Rolex wristwatches ever to be offered in a Christie's auction, highlighted by an extraordinarily rare, oversized stainless steel split seconds chronograph wristwatch, ref. 4113, manufactured in 1942 (estimate: SFr.700,000-1,200,000 / US$740,000-1,300,000/ €590,000-1,000,000). Christie's is international market leader in the field of vintage Rolex wristwatches.

Aurel Bacs, International Director of Christie's Watch Department: „The upcoming Geneva sale is a treat for scholars, historians and collectors, but most importantly for all those with a passion for the highest quality collector's watches. I can hardly remember an auction featuring over 100 Patek Philippe watches and, simultaneously, also offering over 100 of the world's finest and rarest Rolex timepieces. These two celebrated Geneva names are the most recognized in the field of wristwatch collecting and for the market this auction promises to be the main event in Europe this coming season. Our team of specialists has applied unforgivingly rigid standards when hand-selecting the finest watches from the world's most important private collections. We are also very proud to offer numerous significant watches, never before shown or offered publicly, directly from the original owner's families. With estimates ranging from SFr.1,000 to over SFr.1,000,000, the only common denominator of all the 360 watches is their uncompromised quality.

Patek Philippe : A Rediscovery
Christie's is proud to announce the exciting discovery of a historically important and probably unique, white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases and leap-year, ref. 3448, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1981 (estimate: SFr.800,000-1,400,000 / US$850,000-1,500,000/ €670,000-1,200,000). This extraordinary example is most likely the first ever wristwatch by Patek Philippe featuring a leap year indication, besides prototypes. Perpetual calendar wristwatches manufactured by the maker did not include such an indication until 1982, with the introduction of reference 3450. Therefore, the present watch, indicating 1, 2, 3 and a red dot (for the leap year) during the 4 year cycle, constitutes a spectacular discovery to the world of watch collectors and scholars alike. Presented in mint condition, it also benefits from an ultra-rare white gold case enhancing the beauty of the celebrated "padellone" design. Coming from the property of the family of its original owner and previously unknown to the public, this watch has never been offered on the market before. Amongst the highlights on offer is another Patek Philippe gem: an important and extremely rare platinum dress watch with perpetual calendar and moon phases, ref. 725/2, movement no. 930710, manufactured in 1947. (estimate: SFr.250,000-350,000 / US$270,000-370,000/ €210,000-290,000). Considered to be one of the world's most beautiful complicated pocket watches of post-war production, this example is offered in virtually mint, unworn and unpolished condition.

A Gentleman's Pursuit for Excellence part II
A superb private collection of complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches and pocket watches
Following the success of Part I of A Gentleman's Pursuit For Excellence, which was offered at Christie's Geneva in November 2012, we are delighted to announce the sale of the second part of this superb private collection of complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches and pocket watches. Equally sophisticated, Part II displays a great selection of some of the most beautiful and rare wristwatches ever manufactured by Patek Philippe. One of the most precious pieces from this section of the sale is a very rare gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499/100, manufactured in 1981 by Patek Philippe (estimate: SFr.250,000-350,000 / US$ 270,000-370,000 / €210,000-290,000). Widely considered by collectors as the last, true vintage complicated wristwatch ever created by Patek Philippe, the production of reference 2499 started in the early 1950s.
Further highlighting Part II is a probably unique gold open face two-train trip minute repeating pocket watch by Patek Philippe, ref. 841, its movement manufactured in 1909 and encased in 1963 (estimate: SFr.100,000-150,000 / US$110,000-160,000/ €85,000-120,000). This watch features the rare and desirable tandem wound two-train movement, one for the going and one for the repeating work.
Traditionally, the repeating mechanism of a watch is activated by pushing a slide in the case band, thus winding and releasing it at the same time. The train of a trip repeater is wound in conjunction with the going train and released at will through a button in the crown. The advantages of this system are the clean lines of the case, the enhanced dust resistance and most importantly, permitting the owner the activation of the repeat train many times at will from only one winding.

The most important selection of Rolex vintage wristwatches ever offered in a Christie's auction
An extraordinarily rare, oversized stainless steel split seconds chronograph wristwatch, ref. 4113, manufactured in 1942 (estimate: SFr.700,000-1,200,000; US$ 740,000-1,300,000/ € 590,000-1,000,000), is the highlight of the richest selection of Rolex vintage watches ever offered in a Christie's auction, including some 115 Rolex timepieces overall. Being the firm's one and only ever produced split seconds chronograph wristwatch model, reference 4113 is considered the rarest and most exclusive Rolex ever created. Impressing with its unique case shape and size, it has a substantial diameter of 44 mm which surpasses all other Rolex chronographs by at least half a centimeter in size. Furthermore, its case design is unique in the family of Rolex chronographs with a bezel as thin as technically possible, allowing a dial size nearly as big as the entire case, resulting in an impressive level of legibility. The history of reference 4113 has always been the subject of speculation and legends, although all of these speculations have led to the world of car racing. The vast majority of reference 4113, which have returned to the market during the last thirty years was linked to Sicily, home of the famous "Giro Automobilistico di Sicilia", with its 11,000 bands, at the time the longest closed circuit race in Europe.
The roll call of impressive vintage Rolex wristwatches continues with an extremely fine and probably unique gold chronograph Daytona wristwatch, Paul Newman model, ref. 6241, manufactured in 1968 and retailed by Hermes (estimate: SFr.200,000-300,000 / US$ 220,000-420,000/ €170,000-330,000). The rarity of this lot is marked by the stamp of the Hermes brand on the back of the watch, to date the only Rolex Daytona known to exist retailed by Hermes Paris: a pairing of the world's most mythical names. This fact is confirmed by the Hermes archives and the watch is prominently published in key literature.
Further highlights include one of the historically most important watches ever made by Rolex, the Zerographe reference 3346. Considered a crossover between a Rolex bubble back watch and Rolex chronograph, Zerographe reference 3462 marks a turning point in Rolex history. Probably never made beyond a small number of prototypes, this reference is the foundation of Rolex's future developments. Notably, it launched the success story of Oyster chronographs, culminating with the Daytona, but also sports watches with revolving bezels, later to become the world-famous Turnograph and Submariner families. Zerographe reference 3346 was the first Oyster chronograph model produced by Rolex and furthermore the first to be powered by an in-house movement. What made the movement so special was the addition of a return-to-zero or fly-back mechanism. The present Zerographe is preserved in award-winning condition and fascinates by virtue of its sharp outlines, the very crisp milling on the bezel rim and back, the perfectly sharp writing on the back and the well-preserved markings on the bezel. (estimate: SFr.250,000-350,000 /US$ 270,000-370,000/ €210,000-290,000).

 
The Palladio collection part I
Complementing the sale, Christie's is pleased to offer Part I of a Private Collection of stainless steel Rolex Chronographs, composed of 10 timepieces dating from the late 1920s to the 1960s. The top lot of the collection is a rare stainless steel triple calendar chronograph wristwatch with luminous numerals and hands, ref. 4767, manufactured circa 1948 by Rolex (estimate: SFr.120,000-180,000 / US$130,000/190,000 / €100,000-150,000). The present watch is an outstanding example of this reference, the first Oyster-series triple calendar chronograph model ever presented by Geneva's "crowned" watch manufacturer. Known to have been made in an exceedingly limited series, original and unspoilt examples of this landmark model are extremely rare. In fact, the present reference 4767 is distinguished by its beautiful original dial, and enhanced by the rarity of the luminous numerals and hands.

Contemporary timepieces
Christie's will also offer a very b selection of limited contemporary collector's watches from the most important manufacturers. This section of the sale is highlighted by an extremely rare stainless steel wristwatch with oversized date and power reserve Lange 1, which is one of only three examples of this model known in stainless steel by A. Lange & Söhne (estimate: SFr.50,000-100,000 / US$53,000-110,000/ €42,000-83,000). Introduced in 1994, Lange 1 is the first Lange watch of the new era and represents a culmination of what connoisseurs of fine watches associate with the legendary "A. Lange & Söhne" heritage. The present stainless steel version is especially appreciated by watch purists as the simplicity of the case material enhances the beauty of the movement. The stainless steel version of this model was never available to the public.

Sold for the benefit of Children Action
Christie's is honored to have been chosen to auction a superb selection of ten contemporary Patek Philippe wristwatches. An anonymous gentleman collector has consigned these watches from his personal collection and will donate the proceeds to benefit Children Action, a Swiss Foundation aiming to bring help to children in need, regardless of their nationality, race, or religion. All the timepieces from this collection will be offered without reserve, with the global estimate ranging from SFr.450,000 to SFr.700,000. The highlight from this section of the sale is a fine, white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, leap year and day and night indication, ref. 5270, manufactured by Patek Philippe circa 2011 (estimate: SFr.100,000-150,000 / US$110,000-160,000/ €85,000-120,000). Considered as the "top of the line" of Patek Philippe production, reference 5270 can only be obtained after considerable delay due to a long waiting list. As a "perpetual calendar chronograph", this is the legitimate successor of Patek Philippe's famous family including reference 1518, 2449, 3970 and 5970.

WORLDTEMPUS - 6 march 2013

Patrick Heiniger marked the history of the company throughout the 16 years he presided over its destiny, from 1992 to 2008.
M.Heiniger was appointed Managing Director of Rolex in 1992, six years after he joined as Commercial Director. He was also named Chief Executive Officer in 1997. As the company's third Managing Director since it was founded, he followed his father, Andre J. Heiniger, who in 1963 had succeeded Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex.

Born in Argentina in 1950, Patrick Heiniger was a lawyer by training, specializing in international and intellectual property law. He made it his mission to reinforce the protection of the brand throughout the world.
Under his impetus, in the mid-1990s Rolex made a fundamental strategic choice and opted for the vertical integration of its means of production. This strategy was intended to guarantee control over manufacturing of the essential components of the brand's watches and thus to ensure its autonomy.
As a true independent watchmaker of the 21st century, enjoying unprecedented freedom in the design and manufacture of its watches, Rolex could take its ambition for excellence and innovation to new heights.
In 2002, Patrick Heiniger created the Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative, dedicated to helping promising young artists realize their full potential under the watchful eye of a renowned mentor in their discipline.
That same year, he was awarded the insignia of Chevalier of the National Order of the Legion of Honour and, in 2005, he was appointed Commander of the Order of Arts and Letters.
Patrick Heiniger retired from the helm of Rolex in December 2008.
Worldtempus would like to express its deepest sympathy to Patrick Heiniger's family and Rolex teams.

Antiquorum's fall auction of "Important Modern & Vintage Timpieces" held at the Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong on Friday, October 19th achieved outstanding results totaling HKD23,834,875. A total of 75.8% of the auction was sold by lot, with 124% sold by value.
 
The highlights of the sale included the Harry Winston "OPUS V" 18K pink gold wristwatch, the Louis Vuitton "Tambour Diving II" 18K black gold diver's wristwatch with square button chronograph specially made for Only Watch Auction 2011, and a series of fine Patek Philippe timepieces.

One of the most exciting highlight's of the sale was definitely the Harry Winston "OPUS V" 18K pink gold wristwatch (Lot 323). This very fine and rare wristwatch aroused a lot of interest among collectors and was sold for an impressive HKD1,160,000 (including buyer's premium) after heated competition between room, phone and Internet bidders.
 

Another highlight was the Louis Vuitton "Tambour Diving II" 18K black gold diver's wristwatch with square button chronograph (Lot 118), specially made for Only Watch. The unique and highly collectible wristwatch drew consideration attention among collectors and attained a noteworthy price of HKD400, 000 (including buyer's premium).
 
The outstanding performance of Patek Philippe once again highlights the brand's popularity among collectors worldwide. The Patek Philippe Ref. 5101P 10 Days Tourbillon Platinum (Lot 322) sold for HKD1, 556,000 (including buyer's premium), the highest price attained in the sale.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5131G-001 World Time wristwatch (Lot 206), a very fine wristwatch combining precise watchmaking expertise and traditional enamel craftsmanship achieved HKD1,040,000, while Patek Philippe Ref. 5050G Roman Dial 18K white gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar (Lot 321), brought HKD608,000. Also noteworthy was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5350R 18K pink gold wristwatch (315), which attained HKD475, 000 after fierce bidding.
 
Patek Philippe Ref. 1146 "Piece Unique - Pendulette Dome -Fêtes des Vendanges" Dome clock (Lot 127), which had drawn considerable attention prior to the sale, attracted many collectors vying for it and was sold to an Asian collector for a remarkable HKD980,000. (including buyer's premium)

 
The auction attracted collectors from across the globe with bidders from China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Russia, Singapore, Switzerland and the United States.
 
"Today's fierce competition among global bidders for the Patek Philippe Ref. 1146, Harry Winston "OPUS V" and other amazing lots for auction confirms the ever-increasing market demand for collectable timepieces," said Jill Chen, General Manager, Antiquorum Hong Kong.
 
Antiquorum looks forward to our next auction on November 11th in Geneva, featuring a magnificent royal presentation musical fan with concealed watch and an impressive collection of Patek Philippe and Rolex timpieces.

Juan Martín Del Potro had an easier time bringing home the gold at this tournament than perhaps others. It was obvious he felt right at home on the red clay of the Lisbon suburb's courts: disposing of France's Richard Gasquet (number 18 in the ATP rankings) in the finals and Switzerland's Stanislas Wawrinka (number 21) in the semifinals, the gentle giant put his Rolex Milgauss on his wrist directly after shaking his opponents' hands at every match.

Furthermore, Salomão Kolinski of the retail chain Boutique dos Relógios was on hand to present the winners with timepieces from Omega for the third year running. As Del Potro's Rolex ambassadorship prevented him from wearing other timepieces, he gifted his Seasmaster to the best Portuguese player, João Sousa, who lost to Spain's Albert Ramos in the quarterfinals in a valiant battle.
 

The ladies' champion, Estonia's Kaia Kanepi - currently number 26 in the world - received a ladies' Constellation.

When a Westerner hears the word "Sherpa," he or she immediately associates it with mountain climbing. There is a good reason for this: the Sherpa caste, at home at the foot of Mt. Everest, part of the Himalayan mountain range, makes its living by guiding tourists coming to Nepal to conquer the mountain. This is a dangerous, ungrateful job - but in many cases it is the best way for a member of the Sherpa ethnic group to support its family.

Namgel Sherpa and Thundu Sherpa probably often gratefully pray to their gods since the day that Sir Ranulph Fiennes and Michael Kobold showed up in Kathmandu in 2008, the latter having spontaneously decided to accompany his friend and the Kobold Watch Company ambassador who has been described as "the world's greatest living adventurer" on an Everest bid. Kobold was unprepared to climb, and he had not even reckoned with reaching what's known as base camp (the last acclimation settlement before serious climbers head up the earth's highest mountain, which peaks at 8,848 meters (29,029 feet) above sea level). He made it up much higher before both he and Fiennes had to turn back; it was then he discovered he was officially bit by the same bug that has plagued adventurers the world over.
Kobold and Fiennes returned in 2009 and made it to the summit, with Kobold repeating the feat in 2010 together with his wife Anita Ugyan, who climbed without oxygen. During the three adventurous climbs, the lives of Kobold and other members of his crew - particularly his wife - were seriously endangered. Only by the grace of the Sherpas did they survive, and in his gratitude Kobold decided to make a suggestion uttered by Fiennes in 2008 into reality and invest in an unprecedented venture: training the two Sherpas as watchmakers and having them run a new subsidiary in Kathmandu called Kobold Watch Company Nepal (Pvt.) Ltd as co-owners.

"These two caught on really quickly," Kobold's head watchmaker, Dale Poindexter, said of the Sherpas' ability to learn the complicated techniques involved in mechanical watchmaking during the official opening of Kobold Nepal on March 26. Poindexter trained them for ten months in Kobold's Pittsburgh facility.
Made in Nepal
As manufacturing and crafts only employ 6 percent of Nepal's 27 million-b population, it is safe to say that skilled labor is not one of this country's assets. In fact, Kobold is certain that his venture is a highly motivational one for the people of Nepal, a way for them to imagine a different future. "Newspapers have already written that Nepal, unable to produce even a sewing needle, now has 'watch movements' with hundreds of parts. This is sure to greatly increase the confidence of the Nepalese in themselves."

The "standard" Kobold watch model bearing the predicate "made in Nepal," assembled in the Sherpas' new workshop, which is equipped with exceedingly solid, locally custom-made benches crafted from local wood, is called the Himalaya. It is housed in a 44 mm stainless steel case that was made in the U.S.A. The three-handed dial comes in brown or black and exudes the typical Kobold legibility that is the signature element of this adventurous brand. The automatic movement is a Kobold specialty: Caliber K.2651 is based on a vintage Förster movement from Pforzheim. Kobold is the only company currently using this refurbished and improved movement in serial watches. Water-resistant to 100 meters, the timepiece is protected by a sapphire crystal that is also sourced in the U.S.A. Its rugged, understated elegance completed by an alligator skin strap also crafted in the U.S.A. will allow this watch to be worn in any circumstances: on the mountain or in the city.
To celebrate the opening, Kobold also offered a limited edition of 25 very special watches - which were unfortunately already sold out before the evening of the opening had even come to its exciting conclusion. The Himalaya Everest Edition features a very special dial crafted from a Mt. Everest summit limestone that Kobold plucked from the lofty ground and brought back down the mountain in 2009. A German specialist company located in Idar-Oberstein spent two years ensuring the structural integrity of the beautiful dials crafted from this rock that now forms the mysterious 5 mm-thick face of the Himalaya Everest Edition. Needless to say, each of the 25 pieces is unique in its own way thanks to the natural material.

Last but hardly least
Many colorful and important personages attended the evening festivity, including a handful of ambassadors to Nepal, two top generals of the Nepalese army -who ended up "guarding" the Kobold collection inspected by party guests in the new workshop - several members of the deposed royal family of Nepal, the commander-in-chief of its army and other influential fans of Kobold watches from various countries. They had all attended not only to support the new business but also to hear Kobold's famed ambassador tell stories of his exploits. Fiennes has been entered into the "Guinness Book of World Records" as "the greatest living explorer." This man, previously an esteemed Rolex ambassador for 20 years, is the author of many world firsts as well as gripping books. When he and Kobold summited Mt. Everest in 2009, Fiennes was 65 years old. He is a top celebrity in the U.K. and according to JustGiving.com, the U.K.'s top celebrity fundraiser.
Asked why he gave up the Rolex sponsorship in favor of becoming Kobold's top ambassador, Fiennes replied in his typically direct way, "Gratitude and loyalty." This seems to be a running theme in the world of Kobold, and flows in both directions.

Namgel and Thundu did not seem particularly fazed by any of this hoopla - least of all the celebrity explorer they have guided up their home mountain twice - and exuded a calm, interested outward demeanor throughout the entire event. In the space of the four years that they have known Kobold, the world of the two Sherpas who have climbed Mt. Everest a combined total of sixteen times has become an entirely different one. Though hard to get involved answers from them, when asked if they felt pride at all these accomplishments, the answer was clear: a big smile and an enthusiastic "yes!" accompanied by vigorous nodding. I'm not certain they understand the historic proportions of their actions over the last few years, but they have time to discover it - time mechanically measured by an adventurous Kobold watch that they keep running.

The Oyster Perpetual SKY-DWELLER presented at Baselworld 2012 is the latest addition to the Oyster collection, a compelling timepiece of revolutionary design that blends to perfection technological sophistication and ease of use.

With 14 patents - five of which are new - the SKY-DWELLER provides, in an unprecedented and highly original way, the information global travellers need to easily keep track of time: a dual time zone, with local time read via centre hands and a reference time display in 24-hour format read via a rotating off-centre disc visible on the dial; a particularly innovative annual calendar named SAROS - in tribute to the astronomical phenomenon which inspired it - that requires only one date adjustment a year, when the month changes from February to March; and a month display by means of 12 discreet apertures around the circumference of the dial.

A majestic expression of the art of watchmaking and the product of Rolex's exceptional technical expertise, the SKY-DWELLER is as intuitive to read as it is simple to use. Local time, reference time and the date are rapidly set using a highly innovative interface between the case and movement. The rotatable RING COMMAND bezel is the focal point of the interface, allowing the wearer to select the individual functions to be set simply by turning the bezel. Each function can then be adjusted swiftly and easily in both directions by means of the winding crown, which has only one setting position.

The SKY-DWELLER is equipped with a new calibre, the 9001, an officially certified Swiss chronometer entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. The SKY-DWELLER epitomizes the values of precision, robustness and reliability for which Rolex watches are renowned. It bears witness to the creative force of a brand dedicated to its passion for innovation at the service of the wearer.

The SKY-DWELLER is designed for those who place the emphasis on useful functions, effortless manipulation, prestige and elegance above all. Available in 18 ct white, yellow or EVEROSE gold cast by Rolex in its own foundry, this advanced wristwatch features the fluted bezel that symbolizes the codes of the brand. With its stately 42 mm OYSTER case, it is the embodiment of perfect symbiosis between form and function, aesthetics and technology.

With the SKY-DWELLER, Rolex once again demonstrates its wealth of ingenuity by designing and manufacturing a watch that perpetuates the OYSTER's legendary excellence.

Dual time zone and 24-hour display 

The combined display of local time via centre watch hands and reference time via an off-centre disc makes the SKY-DWELLER easy to read and endows it with unique aesthetics.

The Oyster Perpetual SKY-DWELLER features a dual time zone that is as intuitive to read as it is simple to use. The display's highly original design endows the watch with an aesthetic identity all of its own.

Reference time via an off-centre disc

Global travellers can read the reference time - the time at home or at their usual place of work - via a rotating off-centre disc visible on the dial. A fixed inverted red triangle points to the wearer's chosen reference time. The disc's 24-hour display allows travellers to clearly distinguish daytime hours from night-time hours in the reference time zone (for example, 10 p.m. versus 10 a.m.). At any moment and in any location, they know if it is an appropriate time to contact someone on the other side of the world.

Centre hands for local time

Local time at the destination is indicated by the conventional centre hour, minute and seconds hands. It can be set very quickly and easily thanks to a mechanism that allows the hour hand to be adjusted independently in one-hour increments both forwards and backwards, so that changing the local hour does not affect the minute or seconds hands or the reference time.

Date change linked to local time

The date change is linked to local time and occurs within a few milliseconds at midnight. Thus, the date displayed in the aperture is always the current date in the wearer's local time zone. Thanks to its innovative display and simple operation, the SKY-DWELLER allows the traveller to adjust the watch to different time zones during a journey, while benefitting from a constant, clear display of reference time.

Saros Annual Calendar

A particularly ingenious patented mechanism inspired by an astronomical phenomenon differentiates between 30-day and 31-day months, thanks to just four additional gear wheels.

The Oyster Perpetual SKY-DWELLER is equipped with a revolutionary annual calendar offering unparalleled robustness and reliability for such a complex watchmaking function. This annual calendar's qualities are attributable to an ingenious mechanism named SAROS, patented by Rolex. Its original design was directly inspired by the astronomical phenomenon of the same name.

Only one adjustment per year

This annual calendar automatically differentiâtes between 30-day and 31-day months. It displays the correct date throughout the year and requires only one adjustment a year - on 1st March, February having only 28 or 29 days.

A system with intelligence

The ingenuity of the SAROS system developed by Rolex lies in its simple and systematic handling of the irregular occurrence of 30 and 31-day months. This intelligent mechanism is based on only two gear ratios and four gear wheels added to the traditional Rolex instantaneous date calendar. Such simplicity ensures peerless robustness and reliability for the annual calendar function.

Planetary and satellite wheels

The Greek term Saros has been used since antiquity to designate an approximately 18-year cycle of alignment patterns between the Sun, the Earth and the Moon that is behind lunar and solar eclipses. This astronomical phenomenon inspired the design of the SKY-DWELLER's annual calendar mechanism. The SAROS system is designed around a fixed planetary gear Wheel (equivalent to the Sun) at the centre of the movement. A satellite wheel (whose centre represents the Earth) engages with the planetary wheel and rotates, orbiting the planetary wheel in one month, driven by the date disc. The satellite wheel is fitted with four fingers (the Moon) for the four 30-day months (April, June, September and November).

Double instantaneous date change

The gear ratio between the satellite wheel and the planetary wheel is calculated in such a way that at the end of each 30-day month - and only in these months - one of the satellite's fingers receives an additional impulse from the date change mechanism. This makes the calendar disc jump two days (from the 30th to the 1st) within a few milliseconds to display the correct date.

Discreet month apertures

The months of the year are indicated in 12 discreet apertures around the circumference of the dial, outside the hour markers: January at 1 o'clock, February at 2 o'clock, and so on. The current month is identified in a contrasting colour.

RING COMMAND BEZEL

The Ring Command Bezel can be turned to any one of three positions to choose the function to be set: date, local time or reference time.

The Oyster Perpetual SKY-DWELLER is equipped with a rotatable RING COMMAND bezel that allows the wearer to easily select the watch's different functions via an innovative, patented interface between the movement and case.

Unrestricted setting

The RING COMMAND bezel can be turned to any one of three positions to select the function to be set: date, local time or reference time. The selected function can then be rapidly adjusted in either direction, forwards or backwards, using the winding crown, which has only one setting position. Unlike traditional mechanisms, this interface developed by Rolex allows unrestricted setting.

A simple and intuitive interface

This simple and intuitive interface is based on a complex mechanical module which consists of no fewer than 60 components and demands state-of-the-art watchmaking and micromechanical expertise. The heart of the mechanism is a double cam and levers that engage various gear trains inside the movement according to the function selected. One of these cams is activated by pulling out the winding crown, the other is driven by rotating the bezel to activate setting wheels located in the middle case of the watch.

An expression of Rolex values

With its innovative interface between the watch case and the movement, the RING COMMAND bezel is the product of Rolex's total mastery of the design and manufacture of all the essential components of the watch. Rolex once again demonstrates core values that have always placed an emphasis on functionality and wearer comfort.

Classic elegance of the fluted bezel

With its iconic Rolex fluting, the SKY-DWELLER is firmly established in the lineage of the models in the OYSTER collection, such as the Datejust or the Day-Date , which have become symbols of prestige and timeless elegance.

Calibre 9001

A certified chronometer, this new high-performance movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex consists of 380 components and is backed by seven patents.

The Oyster Perpetual SKY-DWELLER's calibre 9001 is a completely new self-winding mechanical movement, a pure distillation of Rolex technology. Entirely developed and manufactured in-house, with a total of 380 components and backed by seven patents - four of which are new - it is one of the most complex calibres ever developed by the brand.

A selector wheel on the outside edge of the movement ensures the interaction of the movement and the bezel of the watch to set the functions.

Chronometric precision

Calibre 9001 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. The oscillator has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy.

Singular reliability

The architecture behind the 9001, like that of all PERPETUAL movements at Rolex, makes it singularly reliable. The oscillator is fitted between high-performance PARAFLEX shock absorbers, developed and patented by Rolex, that offer 50 per cent greater resistance to shocks. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge. The SAROS annual calendar and the RING COMMAND setting system are also designed to be exceptionally robust.

Self-winding by Perpetual rotor

Calibre 9001 is fitted with a self-winding mechanism featuring Rolex's PERPETUAL rotor which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing movements of the wrist to provide a constant source of energy.

The DATEJUST II continues the tradition of the DATEJUST, the emblematic model created by Rolex in 1945, the first self-winding waterproof wristwatch chronometer to display the date in a window on the dial. A reinterpretation of that symbol of the modern watch, the DATEJUST II inspires admiration with its impressive case and technical attributes.
The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
The DATEJUST II's 41 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosion-resistant 904L steel. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TWINLOCK double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a CYCLOPS lens at 3 o'clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case allies refinement with efficiency in protecting the DATEJUST II's high-precision movement.

Calibre 3136, a superlative chronometer
The DATEJUST II is equipped with calibre 3136, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3136 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The oscillator is fitted between high-performance PARAFLEX shock absorbers, patented by Rolex, which offer 50 per cent greater resistance to shocks.

Comfort and elegance of the OYSTER bracelet
This DATEJUST II model is fitted with a 904L steel OYSTER bracelet with a folding OYSTERCLASP. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet offers remarkable comfort and ease of use. It also features the ingenious EASYLINK rapid extension system that allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance.

In less than fifty years the combination of high quality creations (made in Switzerland) and the Latin spirit of the brand won over the Americas. Various fine watch brands (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Longines) associated their names with Cuervo y Sobrinos (a more prestigious name at that time) to co-produce watches based on Havana time - a legacy of "bygone time". The boutique quickly became so successful that in the 1890s Cuervo y Sobrinos decided to expand its production network, opening branches in three crucial European cities.
While most European luxury product creators expanded their international business to other continents, Cuervo y Sobrinos was one of the first overseas brands to take the opposite path, successfully working on the Continent: in Pforzheim, Germany, where La Casa selected its precious stones; in Rue Mezlay in Paris, where its finest jewels were made, and later, in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, where its timepieces were created.
For its select clientele, a visit to La Casa in the heart of Havana was a must on every trip, just like visits to the great jewelers on Place Vendôme in Paris or Fifth Avenue in New York. In the 1940s, the heyday of the brand, prized Cuervo y Sobrinos products weren't simply premium watches but reflected a lifestyle and a way of thinking. After having its name among top watch brands for more than fifty years, the company's business slumped after the political uprisings in the country. The Cuervo family left Cuba for Europe and for nearly forty years the brand lay dormant.
 

This historical 18K yellow gold automatic centre seconds wristwatch with date and bracelet (ref. 6305/1) was sought after by at least three bidders in the room. After five minutes of competitive bidding, the hammer finally came down with a final price of CHF 170,500/ $171,760, almost tripling the pre-sale estimate of CHF 60,000-80,000/ $66,500-89,000 (lot 132). Presented to the German Chancellor in 1955, this great piece of history has been kept in its original condition by the Chancellor's descendants and appeared tonight for the first time on the market. Engraved on the back with Konrad Adenauer's name, it was accompanied by its original leather folder and a letter dated 16 September 1955 from Rolex's founder Hans Wilsdorf to the German Chancellor.

Overall, Sotheby's autumn sale of Important Watches brought CHF 7,178,475 ($7,231,524). b prices were achieved for highly complicated timepieces and vintage wristwatches. Tracing the development of watchmaking from 1574 to the present day, the sale also confirmed b interest from international collectors for antique pocket watches.

Top ten

The present Rolex ref. 5513, modified by the famous Q Branch, is certainly the most memorable Submariner to appear in movies and must be considered a veritable trophy not only for the watch aficionado but also for the amateurs of cinematography and of James Bond in general.

Especially designed for James Bond to be worn during 007''s mission in Live and Let Die, it was created in 1972 by the world-famous film production designer Syd Cain.
Featuring not only a bezel spinning at high speed to cut ropes and chains, in the movie it also bore an ultra-b magnet which was supposed to neutralize bullets but was, instead, used by 007 to unzip Ms. Solitaire's dress.
The lot will be sold together with an original construction drawing and two signed images from the set (estimate: SFr. 200,000 - 400,000).

WORLDTEMPUS - 24 October 2011

It was hard to imagine the watch industry before George Daniels, and it will be hard to imagine this place now that he has left it: Daniels was nothing if not an iridescent figure, often setting the tone of good horological taste behind the scenes.
This might be hard for newcomers to imagine today since Daniels only created a total of 37 watches - pocket watches, no less - in addition to a series of 50 wristwatches completed together with protege Roger Smith called Millennium as well as the beginning of the collaborative venture with him introduced last year. As avid followers of horological history will know, the Omega base caliber powering the 50 Millennium timepieces held special meaning. Daniels was, of course, the inventor of the co-axial escapement that is now utilized in every single Omega wristwatch.
 

A true expert
Though Daniels began his professional life after serving his country in World War II with the proverbial 50 quid in his pocket - just enough to buy his first set of tools, as the story goes - his drive, ambition and enormous talent made him a very wealthy man. Some of his fortune was acquired by buying and selling precious vintage pieces and selling 35 of his own unique pocket watches, but most of it came from selling what was to become his most famous invention to the Swatch Group.
No two of Daniels' creations were ever completely alike. The next watch was always undertaken because Daniels had another idea to try out, another escapement to experiment with or desired other functions. He invented the co-axial escapement in 1975, but did not patent his perfected design until 1980. After a long search that involved talks with both Patek Philippe and Rolex over the course of a decade and a half, Daniels eventually sold the design to Omega, who needed almost another decade to bring it to serial fruition. Though the patent has now run out, no other watch brands use the co-axial aside from Omega and Smith, who has adapted it for use in his own masterfully crafted timepieces, which also contain other traditional elements of English watchmaking.
 

Personal memories
When I entered the watch industry, I had no idea who Daniels was. I soon read his opus "Watchmaking" (which was recently republished by Watchprint) in order to learn the basics. However, it was only after becoming friends with various independent watchmakers - predominately members of the AHCI - that I began to understand his place in our industry. One year at Basel, one of them even stood in line at the Omega booth in order to get his own copy of "Watchmaking" signed by the master - and couldn't stop beaming at the chance to meet his idol. Tellingly, François-Paul Journe also worshipped Daniels, even going so far as to present him with one of his own watches last year. For my own part, I found myself fairly well in awe in the presence of Dr. Daniels (he was presented with an honorary title later in life). His technical and industry insights and knowledge were eternally enlightening.
 

George Daniels passed away at his estate on the Isle of Man following complications arising from hip replacement surgery at the age of 85. A funeral is expected to be held on the Isle of Man in about two weeks' time. Fans of Daniels will be pleased to know that a biography written by Michael Clerizo with the current working title "George Daniels: A Master Watchmaker and His Work" is due to be published next fall.
George Daniels, A Master Watchmaker & His Art
FRENCH VERSION (216 Pages • 240 ill. • Format : 29.5 x 29.5 cm. Price : CHF 160.00 • € 140.00).
ENGLISH VERSION (216 Pages • 240 ill. • Format : 29.5 x 29.5 cm. Price : CHF 105.00 • € 93.00).
 

WORLDTEMPUS - 8 June 2011

The world-class tennis tournament in the heart of Paris seems to be the stage that tennis has set to show off players' and spectators' love of watches.
Rafael Nadal's spectacular win over Roger Federer in the finals of the tournament - his sixth French Open championship on the slow red clay in seven years - represents a continuation of Richard Mille's foray into high-profile ambassadorships. Confirming Mille's ever-accurate nose, world number one Nadal has been on a serious winning streak since first strapping the controversial RM 027 tourbillon to his sweaty wrist last spring.

WORLDTEMPUS - 4 May 2011

Rolex reported yesterday that a change has taken place at the top of its management. Up to this point, Gian Riccardo Marini was head of Rolex Italy. The 64-year-old had been managing the Italian branch since 2000.
Bruno Meier took over as Rolex's CEO in 2008; before that he was the company's chief financial officer. In Rolex also announced that Daniel Neidhart is now in charge of the foreign branches of the company. Neidhart will fill this newly created position from an office in Hong Kong. Neidhart was previously in charge of Rolex's Chinese distribution.

WORLDTEMPUS - 2 May 2011

The Rolex Explorer II (reference 1655) - originally only offered with black dial - was produced to meet the needs of cave explorers operating in the dark and not able to tell whether it was day or night. This explains the distinct orange fourth sweep hand on the watch, which indicates AM or PM via the 24-hour bezel. This design was nick-named "freccione" in the 1990s by Italian collectors, which means "big arrow."
Admittedly, the target group for this watch is rather narrow. One would think that Rolex would at least have taken other groupings of professional explorers that might benefit from this feature into consideration when the Explorer II was originally presented in 1971.

Radical change
Since 1971 the Explorer II has only been updated three times, including this year's relaunch. In 1985, Rolex introduced Reference 16550, which for the first time offered the choice of white or black dial as well as a new movement allowing quick date change and the possibility to set the 24-hour hand to a different time zone. The 16550 also introduced sapphire crystal and an upgraded font engraving on the bezel, and the hands were of a different and subtler design matching other Rolex sport models. Reference 1655's hand design was entirely unique to this reference.

Subtle update
These updated details were repeated when Rolex introduced Reference 16570 in 1989; to a layman's eyes the difference between Reference 16550 with a black dial and Reference 16570 will probably not be visible. The difference between Reference 16550 with a white dial and Reference 16570 is, however, rather obvious. The 16550 white dial version turned creamy due to a fragile coating. Also, the white dial version now had black hands instead of light-colored, white gold hands that actually made it hard to see the time with a light-colored dial in the background.
Faulty frenzy
Faults like the white dial of Reference 16550 turning creamy is, however, something Rolex collectors will pay big bucks for. Rolex today is a watch brand that oozes perfection and conservatism, which is why mishaps like a fragile dial coating is interesting for collectors around the world.

40 becomes 42
References 1655, 16550 and 16570 were all housed in a 40-millimeter case diameter, just like the Rolex GMT-Master, Daytona, Submariner and Sea-Dweller. However the new Explorer II sports a buffed-up 42-millimeter case, making it the biggest of the aforementioned ticking siblings, and 2 millimeters smaller than the Yacht-Master II and DeepSea.
Undoubtedly, many Rolex fans will appreciate the new, larger case, but I wonder if Rolex added the extra 2 millimeters to simply draw attention to the Explorer II, which has been overshadowed for decades by its best-selling siblings in the sports lines.
Of course, we will never know this as Rolex representatives are as tight about the company's watch production as the Oyster cases are about water.

WORLDTEMPUS - 15 April 2011

For better or worse Australia is not typically a market that garners a great deal of interest from the luxury watch industry. The perception is that it's too far away, consumer tastes aren't sophisticated enough, and there is not enough population. Certainly most of the big names in watchmaking maintain a presence, but the ranges are generally limited and many of the high-end complications never seem to reach Australia's shores.
Nowhere is the effect of this isolation felt more bly than in Perth, the capital city of Western Australia. Thanks to the significant distance that separates it from the "big" cities on the eastern seaboard - it takes more than five hours to fly to Sydney - Perth is often left out altogether. While this is not terribly surprising, it does demonstrate an incredible lack of foresight.

 
Boom Times
Although Perth may be relatively small from a population standpoint at approximately 1.7 million, it is a rapidly expanding city fueled largely by the astronomical growth of the mining industry and China's insatiable appetite for its resources. Thanks to this burgeoning prosperity, there are more self-made millionaires per capita in Perth than anywhere else in world. Indeed, such is the demand that people come from all over Australia seeking work there.
With these favorable factors at play, it is of little surprise that a number of serious collectors call Perth home. What is interesting, however, is that despite being shown little interest from the industry they have still managed to cultivate a sophisticated watch scene that extends far beyond well-known, mainstream brands such as Rolex, Omega and Patek Philippe (although plenty of those are sold in Perth too). While brands may not publicly disclose the information, or perhaps even be aware of it, a number of private collections feature pieces from prominent independent watchmakers.

Have Money, Will Travel
One of the reasons why Perth has such a sophisticated subset of collectors may be its location. Rather than fly across the country to Sydney or Melbourne to view relatively limited collections, wealthy residents of Perth can take a short, four-hour flight and find themselves in one of the most impassioned watch cities in Asia: Singapore. Here they are exposed to a wide range of brands and have the opportunity to handle pieces that will never make it to Australian retailers. They also benefit from having access to extremely knowledgeable staff (arguably some of the best in Asia) who are very well informed about the brands, the products and of course all the latest industry news.

 
While collectors may be forced to buy some of their pieces overseas, there is a flow-on, word-of-mouth effect for the local market as these individuals often move in wealthy circles and share similar tastes. One day a businessman spots an MCT Sequential One on his associate's wrist and asks where he got it. A passionate conversation ensues and within minutes another Perth resident has had his or her eyes opened to a completely new segment of the luxury watch market he or she never knew existed. This person catches the next plane to Singapore and so the cycle is perpetuated.
Because all these people are buying their timepieces overseas, very few people actually realize that this small but incredibly affluent market exists.
That is set to change very soon, however, with some exciting developments ensuring that the city of Perth will begin to feature prominently on the watch industry's map. While confidentiality prevents disclosure of too many details at this point in time, this will be an event the likes of which the Australian watch market has not seen before. For the time being though, wealthy Perth collectors will continue to travel overseas to spend their hard earned money, leaving Australian brand managers tearing out their hair in frustration.

As the start draws near, the skipper's pulse quickens. Already visualizing the action of the race, he manoeuvres as close as possible to the line.

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II embodies all of the intense emotion a regatta arouses. By its impressive size, evocative power and sleek design, this unique regatta chronograph echoes directly the Maxi Yachts built to brave the oceans. The new version is the first Professional watch in the Oyster collection to be available in EVEROSE ROLESOR - an exclusive combination of the 904L steel superalloy and 18 ct EVEROSE gold.

Sights on the horizon
Equipped with a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II is an innovative and pioneering watchmaking complication, based on interaction between the movement and the bezel. It allows the skipper to programme a regatta countdown sequence from 1 to 10 minutes. Once the countdown has been launched, the skipper can, if necessary, synchronize his chronograph to the official race countdown. Thanks to the Yacht-Master II, experienced sailors and yachting enthusiasts have at their disposal an efficient tool to assist in crossing the starting line at the very moment the horn sounds.

Regatta meets watchmaking technology
With its numerous innovative watchmaking features, the Yacht-Master II model, launched in 2007, is the epitome of the brand's creative force and technology. Its functions depend on a major innovation: the exclusive RING COMMAND bezel, designed and developed by Rolex. Rotatable through 90° and interacting with the movement, it serves to initialize and then lock the countdown programming.

The model's 4160 movement, entirely designed and developed by Rolex, is fitted with a PARACHROM hairspring, 10 times more resistant to shocks and insensitive to magnetic fields. The countdown is operated by a column wheel and a vertical clutch. A number of microcomponents in this unique movement are produced by UV-LiGA - a new technology, entirely mastered in-house by Rolex, which enables the production of components whose fineness or geometry makes them impossible to manufacture by traditional means.

The Yacht-Master II's case, stamped from a block of 904L steel extremely resistant to corrosion, offers all the qualities of waterproofness that have made the reputation of Oyster watches. Not least thanks to its TRIPLOCK winding crown, which screws down tightly against the case like the hatch of a submarine. The pink gold of the bezel and the bracelet's centre links is 18 ct EVEROSE gold, an exclusive alloy developed by Rolex and manufactured in its own foundry. The blue CERACHROM bezel insert, virtually impervious to scratches, corrosion-resistant and non-fading, is also patented and manufactured by Rolex.

The excellent legibility of the Yacht-Master II's dial demonstrates the constant attention to functionality in the Oyster Professional collection. The red countdown minute and seconds hands are readable at a glance against the graduations on the dial or bezel.

The bracelet, in 904L steel and 18 ct EVEROSE, is fitted with an EASYLINK 5 mm comfort extension link and an OYSTERLOCK clasp with a safety catch, two further Rolex innovations.

The horn has sounded. The course is set. The Yacht-Master II forges ever forward, sailing towards new horizons.

This bold incarnation of a feminine classic, in its 34 mm 18 ct EVEROSE gold case, enriches a collection already offered in yellow and white gold.

Seductive charm of EVEROSE gold
The 18 ct Everose gold of the case, bracelet and bezel sets the tone from the outset: an exclusive Rolex alloy, captivating in its inherent lustre and nobility. A mixture of serenity and vitality, sobriety and audacity, it exerts an irresistible power of seduction and gives the watch its b personality. Around the bezel sparkle 12 brilliant-cut diamonds, elegantly showcased in 18 ct white gold settings. The effect is luminous, exquisite, enchanting.

Dream dials
Dazzlingly delicate, the Goldust Dream dial is a subtle, refined marriage of white or black mother-of-pearl and gold dust. The mother-of-pearl is embellished with a new nature-inspired motif and an exquisite design in pink gold dust applied in a fine layer via a patented PVD process which preserves the mother-of-pearl's natural structure while giving it a highly original metallic sheen. The slightest ray of light illuminates this magical dial with iridescent reflections that make the fine strata of the mother-of-pearl shimmer in a subtle play of light. Each of these dials, with a large gem-set numeral at 6 o'clock, is a unique, refined work of art, striking in its delicate splendour.

Distinction and precision
The new Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition stands out thanks to its gracious, curved lines, its feminine form and its new, elegant invisible clasp. It is also an Oyster with peerless precision and reliability, a waterproof chronometer equipped with a Perpetual rotor self-winding mechanical movement. A trusted companion under all circumstances.

The lady who wears this watch looks ahead, stepping confidently towards her future. She glances at her watch, living the present to the full, her sights already set on expanding horizons.

Exploration is a state of mind. It takes courage, resolve and an unquenchable thirst for discovery to always seek to go higher, farther, where no one has trod before. To mountain tops. To the extremities of the poles. To the depths of the Earth. To the edge of volcanic craters.

The watch of adventure
The Oyster Perpetual Explorer model was born of this very state of mind. On 29 May 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Mount Everest in the course of an expedition equipped with Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches. The Explorer model was created in homage to this historic achievement - and to accompany other such achievements. Since then, Rolex has continuously tested and improved the precision, robustness and reliability of its watches in the most extreme environments on the planet. Pushing technical boundaries to accommodate ever more demanding human adventures.
From polar ice to the magma of the Earth
Another step forward was taken in 1971 with the creation of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II. With its highly legible dial, the introduction of the date, a 24-hour hand and a fixed graduated bezel, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II opened new horizons for exploration and became the new reference for professional adventurers and explorers of our planet. It proved itself on the wrist of volcanologist Haroun Tazieff and formed an essential part of the equipment of numerous polar expeditions. Its 24-hour display allows speleologists and polar explorers to distinguish day from night, making the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II an indispensable timekeeper.

Rebirth 40 years later
Exactly 40 years after its launch, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II has been updated to reach new heights of dependability. This new model combines technical innovations and a return to aesthetic sources. Its case, enlarged to 42 mm, houses the new calibre 3187 entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex. The movement includes the most recently patented technologies of the brand, such as the PARAFLLEX shock absorbers and the non-magnetic PARACHROM hairspring, ensuring unparalleled reliability and shock resistance. The bracelet is equipped with a new OYSTERLLOCK clasp with safety catch and the EASYLLINK comfort extension link. On the dial, the 24-hour hand has returned to the arrow shape and the orange colour of the original 1971 model. The hour and minute hands are broader and more legible, and, on the black-dial version, their black base blends with the black dial to create a "phantom effect". The luminescent sections of the hands seem to float over the dial - another nod to the historic model.
The "jumping" hour hand can be set independently, providing a GMT function (second time zone), in conjunction with the 24-hour hand and bezel.
With its extremely robust construction, its exceptional chronometric performance and its legendary reliability, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is the ideal instrument to push the boundaries of the world. And continually expand your own horizons.

"Rolex Gallery" is a complete journey through all the vintage and modern models produced by Rolex.
With new images and updated information, this edition shows from the rarest models to the most dressy ones, to those that represents a dream for watch collectors.

Every chapter of this book represents a type of Rolex watch:
Air-King, Bubble Back, Chronographs, Daytona, Explorer, Moon Phases, GMT-Master, Milgauss, Oyster Date, Oyster DateJust, Oyster Day-Date, Oyster No Date, Prince, Quartz, Submariner, Turn-O-Graph and Yacht Master.
Over 100 different Daytona, 100 Chronographs, 50 GMT-Master, 50 Submariner are showed together with many other watches.
"Rolex Gallery" also provides the course of Rolex history, focusing on those watches that have made history.
"Rolex Gallery" is a clear, detailed and updated guide for all those who want to approach and understand the market of Rolex wristwatches.
This book is within everyone's reach however at the same time represents a useful guide for Rolex collectors.
Text in Italiano, Français, Deustch, English, Español
224 Pages • color ill. • Format : 24 x 28.6 cm.
Price : CHF 195.00 • € 140.00
 

ORDER THE BOOK

WORLDTEMPUS - 2 November 2010

Few would argue that accuracy is an unimportant quality for a watch. However, every day consumers purchase mechanical watches that offer no basic assurance of horological precision. There are, however, several firms that capitalize on the services of the independent Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (COSC) as a guarantor of their watches' fundamental accuracy within -4 to +6 seconds per day.

Last year at the SIHH, Roger Dubuis, a firm that has famously employed the aesthetic standards of the Geneva Seal, announced that it would add a second layer of external oversight by also submitting movements to the COSC.
For Claude Vuillemez, the COO of Roger Dubuis, the appeal of COSC certification is obvious.
"We are a young manufacture," Vuillemez told Worldtempus, "and to get recognition we are looking to external referees like COSC on chronometry and Timelab on functionality to validate our technical expertise."
Breitling has cultivated its image around the fact that it is first and foremost a maker of chronometer-rated instrument watches. Indeed, every Breitling timepiece, quartz or mechanical, is also a COSC-certified chronometer.

"Like in aviation, where every instrument needs to be certified, COSC is an independent laboratory checking the precision of every single Breitling movement for 15 days in 5 positions and at 3 different temperatures," said Breitling executive vice president Jean-Paul Girardin.

Who's Who?
The COSC releases annual lists ranking the brands receiving the most certifications, with Rolex, Omega and Breitling perennially occupying the top three spots.
The global recession contributed to a shake-up of the list in 2009, with Ball Watch, a relatively small producer, breaking into the top ten (at number eight) for the first time in its history — with 15,455 certifications.
Jeffrey Hess, president of Ball Watch in North America, attributes his firm's rise not so much to any specific actions taken by the Swiss watch company with American roots, but to cutbacks in production at some competitors.
While 2009 was difficult for much of the industry, Hess says it was actually a fairly good year for Ball Watch — which led to no reduction in production of certified chronometers.
Ball Watch has another reason for its interest is chronometer certification. Historically, the firm submitted pocket watches to the U.S. Bureau of Standards as a measure intended to ensure the accuracy of its famous railroad chronometers. These were the precise timekeepers used by railroad engineers to avoid potentially disastrous collisions. Hess sees the modern COSC as an extension of this legacy.

At the very least, a modern COSC-certified wristwatch will help its wearer make his or her train on time — as Webster C. Ball originally intended.
 

Among the 643 timepieces, Antiquorum is extremely proud to be offering for sale an extremely rare Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 as well as the personal collection of Rolex watches of the legendary 20th century explorer Sir Edmund Hillary. Previews are to be held in Shanghai, Hong Kong, Zhuhai and Geneva.

The highlight of the sale is the extremely rare Patek Philippe Ref. 2499, Third Series, made in 1971 and sold on June 14, 1972. This 18K pink gold wristwatch with round button chronograph features a 30-minute register, perpetual calendar and moon phases. It is accompanied by a Patek Philippe box and the Extract from the Archives.
Antiquorum experts are also delighted to present the personal collection of Rolex watches that belonged to Sir Edmund Hillary. These exceptional timepieces have been consigned for sale by Lady Hillary and all had special significance for Sir Edmund.

The earliest model in this collection is a Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, Officially Certified Chronometer", reference 6084 dating from 1953. This watch was presented to Sir Edmund Hillary by Rolex Bosecks, Calcutta, India after his descent from Everest in honour of his achievement. It was then worn by him during the Trans-Antarctic Expedition of 1955-1958 - the first overland crossing of Antarctica and the first expedition to reach the South Pole since Scott in 1912 - and as such it has immense historic significance. The caseback is engraved "Sir E. Hillary".
Also part of the collection, the Rolex "Oyster Perpetual Date, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified", REF. 15238. This 18K yellow gold tonneau shaped wristwatch with date was purchased by Sir Edmund Hillary on the 50th Anniversary of the day he reached the summit of Everest, 29th May, 2003. It is accompanied by the original Rolex certificate to Sir Edmund Hillary and a letter of authenticity.
Naturally the collection also includes both the Rolex Explorer I, reference 1016, made in 1972 - the 20th Anniversary of Sir Edmund Hillary's attempt to climb Cho Oyu from the Nepal side in 1952 (Estimate: 4'000 - 6'000 CHF) and the Explorer II, reference 1655, the so-called "Steve McQueen", made in1973 and bought by Sir Edmund Hillary to commemorate the 20th Anniversary of his ascent of Everest.

In addition to Sir Edmund's collection of Rolexes, Antiquorum is delighted to offer the Rolex "Oyster Perpetual, Precision", reference 6098 that was worn by Alfred Gregory on Everest during the successful expedition of 1953. Alfred Gregory was the official expedition photographer and this watch has been consigned to Antiquorum by his family. This watch is of enormous historic significance and is likely to present the only opportunity to acquire one of the original Rolex watches that were on Everest in 1953. The caseback is engraved "A. Gregory - Everest 1953" and the watch is accompanied by the Ice Axe used during the Everest expedition, 5 original photos taken by Alfred Gregory during the climb, service letter by Rolex Geneva and a letter of authenticity from Alfred Gregory's wife.
Also offered at auction, the Patek Philippe Ref. 3450, Third Series, made in 1985. This very rare, self-winding, 18K yellow gold wristwatch features perpetual calendar, moon phases, Roman numerals for the leap year indication. It comes with a wooden fitted box, setting pin, Certificate of Origin and instruction booklet.
Of interest for the Audemars enthusiast is the Audemars Piguet "Jules Audemars - Repetition Minutes a Quantieme Perpetuel," Ref. 26063 PT., made in 2009. It is an extremely fine and rare, astronomic, minute-repeating, platinum wristwatch with perpetual calendar, leap year indication and moon phases. It is accompanied by the original special fitted wooden box, a piano-shaped wooden box to amplify the sound of the minute repeater, certificate and warranty.
Another timepiece of great interest is the Quarter-Repeating Navette-Shaped Ring Watch - One of Only Two Known Examples - A Gift to The Emperor Napoleon I. made circa 1810. This exceptional timepiece is attributed to Antoine Rochard, Geneva, the mainspring is signed Marchand and the case engraved "a L'Empereur N". This extremely fine and exceptionally rare, 18K gold, pearl and rose-cut diamond-set ring watch with virgule escapement and visible balance, is one of only two known examples of a quarter-repeating ring watch of navette shape.
Antiquorum experts are also pleased to offer a collection 40 Omega Speedmaster limited editions, property of a private Italian collector, including the "Speedmaster Professional" Apollo XIII Ref. 3450022, made in a limited series of 999 examples to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Apollo XIII mission in 1995. This stainless steel chronograph bears the Apollo XIII emblem on the subsidiary seconds dial at 9. It comes with the original box, warranty, certificate, instruction booklet, Apollo XIII patch, extra links and booklet.
AUCTION PREVIEWS
The timepieces of this auction will be on view as follows:
SHANGHAI
Tuesday November 2: 10:30 a.m. - 6:30 p.m.
Antiquorum Shanghai
Room 4106B, Bund Centre Office Tower,
222 Yan An Road East,
Shanghai 200002, China
Tel.+86 21 6335 1268
 
HONG KONG
Thursday November 4: 11:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Antiquorum Auctioneers (HK) Ltd.
Suite 704, No. 9 Queen's Road Central,
Hong Kong
Tel. + 852 2522 4168
 
ZHUHAI
Saturday November 6: 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
Gemdale Eton
No. 298 Jinyi Road, Xiangzhou District
Zhuhai
Tel. + 852 2522 4168
 
GENEVA
Wednesday 10 to Friday November 12: 10:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Saturday 13 & Sunday November 14: 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
Antiquorum's Showroom
2, rue du Mont-Blanc
1201 Geneva, Switzerland
Tel.+ 41 (0)22 909 28 50 - Fax. +41 (0)22 909 28 60
Email: geneva@antiquorum.com
 
AUCTION: Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces
Saturday, November 13
Session 1: lots 1 - 252 at 2:00 p.m.
Sunday, November 14
Session 2: lots 253 - 643 at 2:00 p.m.
Mandarin Oriental Hotel du Rhône
Salon Saint-Gervais - quai Turrettini 1, 1201 Geneve
Tel.+ 41 (0)22 909 00 00 - Fax +41 (0)22 909 00 10

WORLDTEMPUS - 15 October 2010

The visibility of Rolex as the world's most recognizable status watch for men comes at the expense of overshadowing the brand's innovations in the ladies' segment. From the beginnings of the Oyster in 1926, Rolex has produced both men's and ladies' watches. However, with few exceptions, that was back in the days when ladies' watches were simply smaller versions of men's watches. It wasn't until the 1990s that the top brands began to make ladies' watches distinguishable from their men's collections, and the results have been transformational. Brands have deftly combined the metiers d'art to include gem setting, enameling and engraving with original designs for women, all the while retaining their signature looks. Rolex's new Datejust collection is a perfect example of this subtle combination and how far ladies' watch design has come.

For a brand whose men's designs never vary substantially from the signature elements of the collection — logo crown, Cyclops date window with magnifying lens and distinctive case and bracelet design — all of which can be found on the new Ladies' Datejust — the design is nevertheless pretty out-there. With applied floral motifs, random gypsy-set diamonds on the bezels and options of purple or green dials, Rolex has introduced one of the most decorative ladies' collections on the market.

The applied floral motifs on the dials are produced using an electroforming technique involving a deposition of either rhodium, yellow gold or pink gold over a pattern created from a metal plate. The flowers, aside from identifying the watch unquestionably as a ladies' style, add dimension and volume to the dial. Not surprisingly, the PVD technique used to color the flowers as well as the purple dial (available on rose or white gold models) and the olive green dial (available on the yellow gold model) is exclusive to Rolex and patented.
The brand's gem setting is also done in-house. The bezels are set with 24 diamonds that are gypsy-set or 46 diamonds in a single row, and the Roman numeral at 6 o'clock are also diamond set. All the work done on this takes place at Rolex's Chêne-Bourg site, located in the eastern part of the canton of Geneva — one of four Rolex manufacturing sites in Switzerland. This facility is home to the brand's in-house gemology department and houses all Rolex activities linked to dial creation and manufacture, including jewelry and gem setting.

With so many Cartier accounts closing this year, the new Rolex Ladies' Datejust is the obvious line to fill that showcase space. U.S. prices range from approx. $7,150 to $8,980.

Swiss watchmaking has continued to reinvent itself throughout the centuries as Swiss craftsmen, inspired by their passion and love of tradition, strive to enhance their precision expertise.
Maison Bunter, one of the leading specialists in major complications and jewel-setting, has been fired by such passion for some 155 years. Today Bunter is proud to present Arcadia: an innovative watchmaking concept that rises to the challenge of reviving one of the greatest emblems of Switzerland's watchmaking heritage.

During the 19th century the Arcadia brand was the symbol of Swiss watchmaking excellence and the standard-bearer of the celebrated Fleurier Watch Company, whose creative approach would inspire generations of watchmakers. Now, after falling victim to the 'quartz revolution,' Arcadia, and its incredibly avant-garde models, are being reborn under Bunter President Claude Sanz - a passionate devotee of watchmaking history.
This new adventure, imbued with unfettered imagination, offers a fresh approach to communicating the values of traditional Swiss watchmaking around the world.

HISTORY
1858 - 1970 : Arcadia
In the early 19th century Swiss watchmaking - hitherto a craftsman's activity - enjoyed one of its earliest industrial booms.
Thanks to Edouard Bovet, one of the first watchmakers to target the Far Eastern market, the number of watchmakers in Fleurier (a village in the Val-de-Travers near Neuchâtel) more than tripled inside 30 years.
Jules-Samuel Jequier, who was born in the village in 1835, chose to devote his life to watchmaking from an early age. He joined Bovet in 1856 after training as a jewel-cutter and, thanks to his enthusiasm and entrepreneurial zest, rose swiftly through the firm's ranks.
Later, helped by his five sons, Jules-Samuel Jequier founded the Fleurier Watch Company, a manufacturer devoted to jewel-cutting and designing watch calibres. The growth of the watchmaking industry would inspire the Jequiers to launch a number of different watchmaking brands.
Among them: Arcadia.

rcadia was founded in 1858 and became the flagship of the Fleurier Watch Company. The classically-inspired Fleurier brand enjoyed great renown among connoisseurs of quality watches, epitomized by names like Breitling and Rolex.
Arcadia watches displayed amazing creativity for the time.
This avant-garde brand produced some particularly stylish collections, typified by some of its early 20th century models - symbols of Swiss ancestral tradition imbued with modern, indeed contemporary, vision.
But the arrival of quartz was to be the downfall for many Swiss watchmakers, who failed to realize the importance of the 1970s electronic revolution. Swiss mechanical watches were left behind by cheap, mass-produced, electronic watches from abroad. The resultant economic crisis lasted 15 years and threatened the entire sector, coming close to completely destroying traditional Swiss watchmaking.
Many Swiss watchmaking firms were forced to close, taking with them the brands which had underpinned their success. Arcadia was no exception and, over a century after its launch by the Fleurier Watch Company, sank into oblivion.

2010 : Rebirth of Arcadia
Arcadia represents the crowning glory to an exceptional career and the fulfilment of a dream for a man to whom watchmaking is far more than a job. Claude Sanz cuts a unique figure in the watchmaking world: a trained geologist and mineralogist, as well as an expert in setting and mechanical complications.
Nearly forty years ago Sanz acquired Bunter, a firm specializing in the cutting of industrial stones and rubies needed for watchmaking. Today, thanks to their mastery of invisible settings and de luxe, made-to-measure projects, Bunter are recognized by all the pre-eminent Swiss watchmaking firms.
For Sanz, work is a passion: a passion for timepieces, for horological savoir-faire and for watchmaking history. It is also a dream... one he has secretly entertained for many years, to blend his skill and experience with the launch of a watchmaking brand that would write the final chapter of a story that began 35 years ago.
"When you make watch components, you inevitably think about creating your own brand," says Sanz.
But his ambition goes further. As a keen historian, he dreams of pursuing the mission of a Swiss watchmaking firm in the purest mechanical tradition - albeit one adapted to the contemporary era.
In the 1990s Claude Sanz learnt about the incredible story of the Fleurier Watch Company and its star brand, Arcadia. He was fascinated by this forgotten watchmaking venture, and promptly decided to take over the Arcadia brand - which had fallen into the public domain - and revive its century-old traditions. "Arcadia calibres were highly innovative for the time, and the Fleurier Watch Company was considered an international ambassador of Swiss watchmaking," he explains. Today the industry is witnessing a return to small mechanical movements, so Arcadia is perfect for the 21st century! It's the start of a whole new adventure.
The Arcadia renaissance is underway. With Bunter's structural and technical support, Claude Sanz has set about renovating each Arcadia calibre in the purest watchmaking tradition, inserting them into modern cases with sleek designs, made using the latest avant-garde technologies and materials.
A combination of the richness of the past and the boldness of the future, Arcadia aims to showcase and perpetuate an exceptional, time-honoured, heritage on the international scene - and restore the prestige of a watchmaking symbol that was the pride of Switzerland for over a hundred years.

AC01 : Transcending tradition
With its modern, virile look, the first re-edition of the Arcadia collection strides confidently into the 21st century - while retaining the utmost respect for watchmaking's greatest traditions.

This can be seen in the powerful design of this audaciously restyled retro model. While retaining its DNA - rounded shapes for the watch and displays within a tonneau case - the Arcadia AC01 has been entirely redesigned in line with today's technical codes. This new design approach is one of extremes: the watch combines harmonious volumes with aggressive elegance, with visible screws and push-pieces reworked to appear part of the case.
The watch is made from such avant-garde materials as titanium (for the case), carbon (for the split-level dial), and anti-allergenic technological fibre (for the strap), married to watchmaking functions that evoke the awesome savoir-faire of the Fleurier Watch Company: the hour-and-minute display in the centre of the dial is surrounded by four skillfully juxtaposed sub-dials with original, extra functions (including chronograph, date and 24-hour time-zone index). The automatic movement, with 18-carat pink gold rotor, can be admired through a transparent case-back.
Watchmaking tradition transcended! The watch is edited in a limited series of 275, and offered for sale with a revolutionary concept ideally suited to the era of new technologies: much in the manner of an iPhone or iPad, all data linked to the model (guarantee, aftersale service, orders for further timepieces) is entered on a USB key given to the owner and activated on-line at time of purchase.
Another novelty: each Arcadia model comes with a travelling case in supple, ultra-resistant neoprene for easy transport and maximum protection.

MUSIC
Ben Frost (Australia) chosen by mentor Brian Eno (United Kingdom)

Australian composer, producer and musician Ben Frost, 30, is recognized for his music that is at once compelling, mystifying, disturbing and beautiful. In 2005, after receiving a degree in fine arts in Melbourne, Frost relocated across the world to Reykjavik, Iceland, where he co-founded the Bedroom Community record label.
His genre-defying work, influenced as much by Classical Minimalism as by Punk Rock and Metal, includes three emotionally powerful and critically acclaimed albums: Steel Wound (2003), Theory of Machines (2007) and By the Throat (2009). Frost's multidisciplinary collaborations linked him with renowned choreographers Gideon Obarzanek, Erna Ómarsdottír and Wayne McGregor, and with artists as diverse as Amiina, Tim Hecker, Nico Muhly and Björk. He is currently composing the score for the forthcoming massive multiplayer online game, World of Darkness, and working on several commissions for film and dance, including a reworking of Tarkovsky's Solaris and music for the new Random Dance production, Flesh in the Age of Reason.

"In my works I celebrate being South African. I look at my ethnic identity, gender identity and colonial heritage," says 34-year-old visual artist Nicholas Hlobo. Since graduating with a degree in Fine Art from the then Technikon Witwatersrand in Johannesburg, in 2002, Hlobo has demonstrated the singularity of his artistic vision at group and solo shows from Cape Town to Rome and Boston. "The ideas he explores are as deliberate and dense as the stitches he uses to unite his signature materials - rubber, gauze and paper," observes Kerryn Greenberg, assistant curator at London's Tate Modern where, in 2008, Hlobo exhibited four works, entitled Uhambo, at the Level 2 Gallery for emerging international artists.
The distinctive use of evocative materials is a hallmark of Hlobo's sculptural installations and performances, which are rooted in his native Xhosa culture and language. Among his most recent successes, he won the prestigious 2009 Standard Bank Young Artist Award for Visual Arts.

A naturally gifted dancer and fledgling choreographer, Lee Serle, 28, is a much sought after performer in his native Australia. Since receiving a bachelor of dance degree from Melbourne's prestigious Victorian College of the Arts in 2003, he has contributed to the work of several, mainly Melbourne-based, companies, notably Lucy Guerin Inc and Chunky Move, with which he has performed both nationally and internationally.
His choreographic credits include A Little Murky, a small-scale piece that experiments with subtle characterization and showcases his powerful and theatrical style, and I'm in Love, for the Next Wave Festival in Melbourne. Serle relishes the Rolex mentorship as a "oncein- a-lifetime opportunity" of extending himself under the tutelage of such a "seminal influence" as Trisha Brown. "The chance of becoming a dance artist in New York is a personal goal," adds Serle, whom Brown describes as a dancer of "tremendous promise", ready to expand his horizons internationally.

Annemarie Jacir, 36, a visionary, Palestinian film director and poet living in Jordan, was named one of Filmmaker magazine's 25 New Faces of Independent Cinema in 2004, a year after graduating with a Master's in Fine Arts from New York's Columbia University.
Co-founder of the Dreams of a Nation project, dedicated to promoting Palestinian cinema, Jacir deftly incorporates a nuanced analysis of cultural and political issues in her films, including like twenty impossibles (2003), an Official Selection of the Cannes Cinefondation. Her widely acclaimed debut feature, Salt of this Sea (2008), the first feature film by a female Palestinian director, premiered at Cannes and was an Academy Award submission for Best Foreign Language Film. It also won the FIPRESCI International Critics' Prize. Currently working on a new feature, Jacir cites Zhang Yimou's Raise the Red Lantern as a source of inspiration. "Films that I find the most inspiring are about the human spirit," she says.

For over a decade, Lebanese actor, writer and aspiring director Maya Zbib has been impressing critics with her subtle portrayals in widely diverse roles. The multi-genre work of the 29-year-old bridges theatre and performance by marrying the two practices through a variety of techniques.
Having acquired a Master's in Performance Making in 2007 from Goldsmiths, University of London, Zbib has created and performed in solo work, including The Music Box, a performance-installation staged in people's houses and showcased at international festivals. She currently comanages Beirut's Zoukak Theatre Company and Cultural Association, which she co-founded in 2006, and also teaches at Lebanese University's Institute of Fine Arts. In 2009, she was invited to participate in the British Council's Cultural Leadership International programme. Dedicated to theatremaking that has an impact on society, Zbib says: "I am very inspired by Mr Sellars' advocacy of theatre as a force for change."

The Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative
The Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative is an international philanthropic programme devised by Rolex and run by a team at the company's headquarters in Geneva. It seeks out highly talented young artists from around the world and brings them together with great masters for a year of creative collaboration in a one-to-one mentoring relationship.
History and objectives
The Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative was launched in June 2002. It runs biennially and is now beginning its fifth cycle (2010-2011). Its objective is to help perpetuate the world's artistic heritage. In keeping with its tradition of supporting individual excellence, Rolex is giving emerging artists time to learn, create and grow.
Programme format
Rolex invites masters in dance, film, literature, music, theatre and the visual arts to provide individual guidance to gifted young artists. In six disciplines, a senior artist (the mentor) agrees to foster and counsel a young artist (the protege) for one year. Each pair decides the most effective way of interacting.
Selection of mentors
Every two years, a new Advisory Board of distinguished artists and arts practitioners suggests and endorses potential mentors. Once the mentors have been approached and have agreed to take part, Rolex works with them to establish a profile of the protege they would like to work with.
Selection of proteges
Then, six Nominating Panels - one panel per discipline - are assembled. The panels are made up of experts qualified to identify suitable potential proteges. To ensure that the process is impartial, panel members remain anonymous during the selection period. Artists do not apply directly to the programme. Each Nominating Panel recommends potential proteges, who are then invited by Rolex to submit applications. The Nominating Panel studies all the applications and recommends three finalists. The entire process has an invaluable spin-off, as it allows the panellists to become aware of about 20 talented young people in their field. Rolex then arranges for the mentor to meet the finalists and choose his or her protege.
Year of mentoring
Mentors and proteges spend a minimum of six weeks together, though many spend considerably more time sharing knowledge and experience. The place and time of these interactions are arranged by mutual agreement. The form of the interaction is flexible, ranging from a protege being granted access to a master at work, to mentor and protege actually collaborating on a work. During the year, Rolex keeps in contact with the mentors and proteges to provide logistical support as required.

Protege grant
Each protege receives a grant of US$25,000 during the mentoring year, in addition to money to cover travel and other major expenses. Proteges are also eligible to receive a further $25,000 after the year is over. This is offered specifically towards the creation of a new piece of work, a publication, a performance or public event.
Documentation
To help give exposure to both the proteges and the programme, Rolex documents the year of mentoring in a publication and a film. A website - rolexmentorprotege.com - also describes the programme.
Outcome
After the mentoring year is over, Rolex continues to keep in touch with the proteges, following their careers with interest. The outcome for proteges varies: a new novel, a new stage production, a dancing career with the mentor's company and a collaborative artwork with the mentor are all examples of proteges' achievements through the programme. However, Rolex is aware that the full benefits of the programme for many of the young artists may continue far into the future.

Global creative community
Since the launch, in 2002, of the Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative, 256 artists, arts leaders and other cultural luminaries have participated in the programme. This includes 67 advisors who have helped select mentors and 147 nominators who have identified potential proteges. Programme participants contribute from across the globe, building a Rolex community of artists spanning more than 40 countries that grows in depth and scope with each mentoring year.

WORLDTEMPUS - 19 April 2010

I decided to extend my annual trip to Geneva's S.I.H.H. in January and visit any car buff's Holy Grails: the Porsche and Mercedes Benz museums in Stuttgart as well as a personal tour through the AMG factory in Affalterbach. I was actually welcomed there with a proudly displayed American flag—now that's attention to detail. As if that wasn't enough, I ventured on to partake in the Mercedes AMG Winter Driving event in Arjeplog, Sweden, and a few weeks later the Porsche Ice Force in Ivalo, Finland.

The experience was incredible: the Mercedes AMG E63, C63 and SLK55 and the Cayman S, 911 C2S, C4S, Turbo and Panamera 4S are all equipped with studded winter tires to gain traction on the giant frozen lakes' endless tracks. I basically drove sideways from 9:30 am until 5:00 pm for three days straight, only interrupted by coffee breaks and sumptuous lunches with 40 other car enthusiasts from all over the world.
Being in the watch business, I thought it would also be a great opportunity to test a few of the world's best sports watches under these frigid conditions—so I left a Rolex Deepsea, an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, a Panerai Marina Diver, and our very own limited edition Wempe Zeitmeister ceramic chronograph outside overnight at -24°F. Needless to say, I slept a little uneasy having watches worth over $55,000 lying in the snow on my balcony unattended, but then again, nobody would have suspected these kinds of treasures there either.

This was an experiment I wouldn't have dared to pull off in New York. All watches performed well, by the way, and even the rubber straps survived the night in the cold without becoming brittle. As for the driving experience, it was exhilarating and certainly has greatly increased my car control skills. We kept the Porsche Cayenne and Mercedes ML drivers busy as we overshot corners and turns just to find ourselves in two feet of snow.
The beautiful thing was that you couldn't get hurt or damage the cars. I'm not quite ready to initiate the drift with the brake when I turn on Fifth Avenue into 55th Street in front of the Wempe store, but it sure is tempting.

WORLDTEMPUS - 20 March 2010
It could have been an uneasy herd of impatient fans prior to a rock concert about to start for onlookers that did not have an interest in horology, but just happened to stroll by Hall 1 in Basel. However the impatient herds of bloggers, collectors and journalists did not wait for a big-ticket name in the music business to go on stage, but for a ditto in Swiss horology, Rolex, to reveal its novelties.
Every year watch related websites start discussing what the leader of Swiss watch making might introduce of novelties once the doors open. Yet nobody knows for sure, since Rolex is as secretive with their novelties as their Oyster-cases are waterproof.

This year, however, the introduction of a steel Submariner with maxi case and ceramic bezel insert was not much of a surprise. Such is the evolution of Rolex. Gold first, then steel/gold and now steel. The "aaaaahhhh" reaction did arise though, when the first impatient souls reached the mirror polished exhibition windows on Wednesday March 17th, when Baselworld opened its doors. The surprise reaction was due to a green dial and ditto ceramic bezel version of the Submariner of steel that paired up next to the black version at Rolex's impressive stand.

Green may not be a colour embraced as joyfully by everyone as the Irish on St. Patrick's Day. This could be why Rolex decided to introduced a 39 millimetres version of what could easily be considered as one of the best looking models of all time, the legendary Explorer. A watch famed by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay's Mt. Everest exhibition in 1953. Both of them wore Rolex Oyster Perpetuals, creating yet another achievement for the Swiss watch company who used the world as a laboratory to test its watches under real conditions, since the young Mercedes Gleitze swam across the English Channel, wearing a Rolex Oyster, in 1927.

The clean military look of the Explorer has not changed. But the new size of 39 millimetre - which is three millimetre bigger that the earlier version, ref. 114720 - is a perfect reason to rediscover a watch that has too long been considered too small for men and too masculine for women. This said, many women might just embrace this new size Explorer, as big watches are still popular on female wrists.

The quintessential divers' watch, the absolute reference in its genre, the Submariner has expanded its horizons far beyond the element of its birth in 1953, while denying nothing of its aquatic origins.
At home in the depths of the oceans, a universe in which it remains the basic instrument of every diver, it long ago conquered terra firma, as the watch of action.
Waterproof to 100, 200, then 300 metres as it successively evolved since its launch, the Submariner has always been the symbol of Rolex's supremacy in waterproofness.

New features
Timeless and impervious to the elements, it is today available in a steel version sporting new features. Its 40 mm case in 904L steel, synonymous with robustness, waterproofness and corrosion resistance, boasts a new rotatable bezel fitted with a practically scratchproof black Cerachrominsert — or green for themodel with the green dial — with platinum graduations.
Penumbra and soft light
As much in its element in the penumbra of the ocean floor as in the soft light of sophistication, this new Submariner Date offers exceptional legibility thanks to hour markers and hands coated with luminescent Chromalight. Its mechanical movement equipped with a Perpetual rotor and a Parachrom hairspring pledges increased chronometric precision and reliability. Its unidirectional rotatable graduated bezel allows the safe reading of dive time.

A power of seduction that never goes out of style
This new model is no stranger to comfort. The Rolex Glidelock clasp allows for fine adjustments of the bracelet length. On land as at sea, watch and wearer are bound by the emotional charge deriving from the Submariner's irresistible power of seduction.

26th October 2009

In the world of watch collecting there are two definitive categories: the vintage watches, typically described as those older than 20 years, and the modern watches, those that are within the first decade of their life.
Sitting between vintage and modern exists a small group of collectible "neo-vintage" watches that hover around the 15-20 year mark. It is around this age that collectors first start to identify the pieces that will one day become classics. It was in the late 1980s, just short of twenty years after its release, that a Rolex Cosmograph with peculiar registers started to gain momentum as a collectable. Now the Paul Newman Daytona sits atop the world of valuable and collectable sport watches.  
The values of Newman Daytonas today range from $30,000 all the way up to $100,000 depending on reference number, condition, and color scheme. We tend to think that we know all there is to know about this particular piece, and so values are easily obtained.
What about today's neo-vintage collectibles though? The ones that are just now coming into the spotlight as the rare birds and grail watches of future generations. Just what are they, why are they poised to climb, and why do we know so little about them?

Let's take one of the few neo-vintage that has already raised a few eyebrows, although it remains relatively under the radar except with a few die-hard collectors; the Rolex Explorer I "Blackout". Since the Explorer's inception over 50 years ago, the vast majority have been made with a black face and white markers, whether applied or painted on the dial itself. For what some experts claim is as little as 6 months, Rolex introduced an instance of the Explorer where the infamous 3, 6, and 9 were actually filled with black instead of white.  
Originally thought to exist only in E serial numbers and with silver print on the dial, we now know that the production also included later X serial Explorers with white print on the dial. The Blackout Rolexes are rare, certainly, in fact some call it the rarest sapphire crystal Rolex to date. What is not so certain is the value of this neo-vintage oddity.
One year ago, in October of 2008, Antiquorum recorded a sale of a Rolex Reference 14270 Blackout at $12,000 US. Five months later, in Antiquorum's March 2009 auction, one sold for just over $5000, and after another five months, one sold again at just above $5000 via Antiquorum. Economic conditions aside, that is a dramatic decrease in value of a rare watch in one year's time. But did the value really decrease?

While impossible to dispute that these watches did sell for less than half of the price of less than a year ago, many sellers continue to believe the Blackout is worth close to, if not well into five figures. Running a quick scan of dealers around the world, the price range of these Rolex Blackouts is astonishing. From as low as $4500 from private sellers (watch alone) to as high as $16,000 from well known European dealers (NOS, Box & Papers), we were able to track down five Blackout Explorers, in excellent or mint condition, with boxes and papers, with an average price of $10,800. Over $10,000 for a Rolex Explorer I from the 1990s, we must be crazy.  Or are we?
Charles Tearle, a Director at Antiquorum USA says "In recent years we have seen transitional variations that exist in relatively modern wristwatches, such as the Rolex Explorer I "Blackout", matte dial submariners, and the transitional IWC big pilots, have speculative presence on the secondary market." But does this mean that these models are worth up to three to four times what a traditional model sells for? Things are still unclear; Tearle adds "relatively little is known about quantities produced, but as we learn more, I believe the market value of these transitional pieces will become more definitive."
While the debate over the value of these rare Rolex "Blackouts" will likely continue on, this raises a much larger issue. How are we to assess the value neo-vintage watches if experts can't seem to agree and with such a dramatic variance in auction prices? Or, maybe this isn't an issue at all, but rather one of the reasons that watch collecting continues to gain momentum as a global passion.  The question now becomes, we know the Rolex Blackout Explorer is something special, but what else is out there and when will we realize it?  
 
 

22 June 2009
- www.fratellowatches.com
I don't consider myself a collector of watches, I just 'collect' what I will actually be wearing. I had a modest collection of new & vintage Omega watches in the past, but I traded most of them for watches that would actually see some daylight every now and then instead of the inside of a safe.  
For me, this results in buying 'iconic' watches most of the time. True classics in terms of design, movement, history or a combination of all these aspects. For example, these icons include the Omega Speedmaster Professional, Rolex GMT-Master and (recently added) the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Michael Balfour wrote a nice book about iconic timepieces called ' Cult Watches'. Of course, some people may think differently on what an iconic timepiece may be. I can imagine that there are watch aficionados who consider an Ikepod Cunningham or a Bell & Ross BR01 to be cult watches as well.

Anyway, in the 10 years I have been buying or collecting timepieces, I always envied the people that just have one watch. Like the guy in the Patek Philippe advertisements, having a nice Patek Nautilus ref. 5711/1A, wear it almost a life time and then pass it on to the next generation (or someone else you love or care for). And in the beginning, I actually thought that an Omega Constellation would be my perfect "only watch". Or my Speedmaster Professional. Or my Rolex Sea-Dweller. Although I was able to wear a timepieces for months in a row, it turned out that I kept rotating timepieces from my collection (or buying new/other ones).

On some of the online watch forums, contributors tend to write about their latest acquisition as being their exit watch. By exit watch, they mean that they finally found their "only watch". Of course, after a while you see the same contributors adding a message that they bought something else or something new. To quote Michael Corleone in The Godfather part III, "Just when I thought I was out... they pull me back in."
Let me tell you this: There is no exit watch. At least, not for us watch addicts. An Omega Speedmaster Professional could be a perfect only watch. Or a Rolex GMT-Master. Or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. For a lot of people, they probably are. But we are spoiled. We complain about having no date on a Speedmaster Professional, the Royal Oak being a scratch magnet, the GMT-Master for not being as water resistant as a Sea-Dweller. It is rubbish. Normal people probably don't even come up with these lame excuses.
Would finding a new passion be a solution (or an excuse to only have one watch)? I guess not, because as soon as the word 'collect' comes in, you are lost… It doesn't matter what the subject will be.