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Top Quality Rolex Automatic Watches (2164) Items
Top Quality Rolex Automatic Watches (2164) Items

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Watches News

  • Phillips - Sam Hines new International Head of watches

    Sam Hines will be heading the global team of Watch Specialists from Phillips' recently opened Asian Headquarters in the Landmark Building in Hong Kong.

    With twenty years' experience in the auction world, Sam has held executive positions in New York and in Asia since 2008, spearheading many ground-breaking sales of Important Watches throughout the globe. In 2013 he was appointed International Co-Head of the Watches Department at another auction house, which, throughout his time, was world-leading in the category of important watches and wristwatches.

    From Hong Kong Sam will lead the existing team of International Watch Specialists in Geneva, London and New York with Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo continuing to work exclusively with the department as Senior Consultants. Sam will work with the Watches Team on the contents of the auctions in the fall season including the 8 November sale in Geneva and the inaugural Hong Kong sale on 1 December.

    Highlights from Sam Hines' career to date include the discovery and sale of two previously unknown pocket watches from the third generation of James Ward Packard, achieving $2.7m at auction in 2011, as well as curating the sale of Asia's most expensive horological object; a pair of Singing Bird Pistols which sold for $5.8m. Sam is also responsible for numerous auction records for some of the world's most important wristwatches and watches, pocket watches and automata, including the sale of the only known Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000 for $3.5m, a Rolex cloisonne enamel wristwatch for $1m and two sets of the Patek Philippe reference 5004 for $3.75m.

  • Newsletter - How to name a watch

    Telling the difference between a Carrera and a Daytona is easy, as is spotting an Aqua Terra from a Terra Luna. You don't even need the brand names to help you. But what about the new collections by Emile Chouriet and Ernest Borel, two Swiss brands with a presence in Hong Kong and China that is difficult to conceive unless you have been there and seen the giant billboards that dominate the skyline. The two new models presented today on WorldTempus both embody the ultra-classic style that appeals to the Chinese consumer, combined of course with an affordable Swiss Made calibre. They go to show that at a certain price point buyers are definitely making their choices based on looks rather than brand or collection names.

    Inspired by a photo showing 18 Rolex Submariner "Comex" watches on the Internet, David Chokron offers some interesting insights into the notion of exclusivity in watchmaking. Can a one-thousand-piece limited edition (not to mention a 15,007-piece one) really be considered as exclusive?

    Our build-up to the GPHG 2015 officially starts this week as Camille Gendre takes a look back over 14 years of Aiguille d'Or winners. Will she find a pattern that could give a hint about this year's winner? We will continue over the coming weeks with a look at the members of the 2015 jury and some interviews with previous winners.

  • Watch auctions

    By now most of us are preparing for the summer break and finally find the time to think about and analyze the state of the market for fine and rare collectors watches. First of all, I can hardly remember an auction season that has been so eagerly anticipated as the series of sales that took place in Geneva this past May. Not only were there really amazing and uber-rare watches on offer (and also many not so good ones…) but for the first time there were four auction houses wanting a piece of the cake. Besides Antiquorum, Christie's and Sotheby's (in alphabetical order), Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo made its debut in the arena.

    Let me start with the good news first: in terms of participation, sell-through rates and results, it was one of the most successful and animated seasons ever, with over US $ 60 million of sales and a number of new all-time world-records established. Many insiders who carefully studied the catalogues expected such positive results but a large number of players also wondered if the market was hungry enough to absorb the large number of watches on offer. Also, some observers asked themselves if the absolute number of watches coming to the auction market every season wasn't too limited to properly fill four auction catalogues and hence diluted the quality of the sales.

    Then, late April, some two weeks before the Geneva auctions, my dear friend, well-informed market observer and Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer asked openly in an article "Is now the best time to buy a 2499, or the worst?", opening Pandora's box and prompting one of the most animated discussions, on-line and off-line, about the state of the market. Unusually, the four auction houses each offered a Patek Philippe reference 2499/100 for sale, the last generation of the venerable manufacturer's all-time legendary model. Would this be good or bad for the market? Were their enough bidders out there to bid, and to bid bly, on all four of the watches? Opinions varied, with some saying that this is the beginning of the end, while others suggested that it is always good to buy a 2499, regardless of the circumstances.

    With delight I can report that all four watches sold, and sold well above their estimates. Antiquorum sold their Tiffany-signed example for CHF 471,750 (estimated at CHF 300,000/500,000). Phillips achieved even more with the Beyer-retailed specimen fetching CHF 533,000 (against the same presale estimate). The next day Christie's achieved a highly appropriate CHF 650,000 (against an estimate of CHF 400,000/800,000) for their mint example and lastly Sotheby's sold their Gobbi-signed example for CHF 382,000 (against an estimate of CHF 200/400'000). Certainly, the four watches weren't identical in terms of condition and completeness but with an average price of over CHF 500,000, one should rather think of all time record levels than crisis! It shows that the appetite for fine and rare vintage watches is greater than ever before and the political turbulences around the world aren't stopping collectors from pursuing their passion. In fact, it is rather the contrary.

    Consequently, we have seen at all auctions the same pattern. The greatest pieces were fiercely fought over by the world's leading collectors and dealers while the average (and below-average…) quality struggled to reach the low estimate or even failed to sell. This may appear as bad news - but actually it isn't. As mentioned in my past articles, collectors around the world are very well informed and do their homework before bidding. Since the offerings at the four auction houses weren't at the same level of quality, we have seen mixed results. In terms of performance, we could observe sold-rates going from anywhere around 70% to close to 100%! Also, the different propositions meant that the sale totals and average lot values couldn't be more different: Ranging from less than CHF 7 million (Antiquorum) in global sales with an average lot value of less than CF 20'000 to Phillips with sale totals at some CHF 30 million, averaging at over CHF 140'000 per watch!

    The other good news is that we have seen beautiful results across the board, regardless of the maker, model, vintage or price level, showing it is no longer the classic "Federer-Nadal-Wimbledon-style final" between Patek Philippe and Rolex. Certainly, there were some results which stunned the market, be it the CHF 4.6 million paid for the spectacular stainless steel Patek Philippe single-button chronograph (Phillips) or the Audemars Piguet minute repeating wristwatch at Christie's fetching over CHF 600'000. The new world-record for any Rolex ever sold at auction, the ex Eric Clapton "Albino" Daytona selling for over CHF 1.3 million (Phillips) made headlines but the General MacArthur Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso at Antiquorum reaching CHF 87'500 was a memorable moment, too. The pattern is always the same: collectors are seeking quality, expressed by condition, rarity, originality, provenance and freshness to the market.

    Also antique (pocket-) watches enjoyed a solid performance with many notable results, demonstrating that we are not only looking at a phenomenon linked to wristwatches.

    Certainly, Rolex continues to be the hottest name in terms of audience, as demonstrated by the themed Glamorous Day-Date Auction staged by Phillips where an exceedingly rare example in platinum (Ref. 6612 from 1958) fetched CHF 473'000, setting a new absolute world-record for any Day-Date ever sold at auction. But when looking at the top-ten lists published by the auction houses, one can spot a number of other names, showing that the market is more varied and open-minded than ever before.

    So, we have all the good reasons to look forward to our summer holidays and expect an even more interesting fall auction season, as I expect all players (sellers, buyers, dealers and auction houses) will do their analysis and adapt their strategies to this 2015 reality - already understood by some, by others maybe soon.
     

  • Jeanrichard - Ian Wright helps launch special Arsenal watch and clock set

    Former Arsenal striker and England international Ian Wright was the guest of honour on the Jeanrichard stand at SalonQP for the launch of the brand's new limited-edition Arsenal Terrascope chronograph in carbon fibre.

    He may not have been the most obvious choice to line-up alongside the brand's CEO Bruno Grande, since he is not a member of the Arsenal squad and thus has no direct ties with the brand. In fact, his relationship with Jeanrichard came about more by chance.

    "We were contacted by Ian Wright because he wanted to see the watches," explained Bruno Grande. "We don't have a direct association with him (we couldn't afford it), so he's a genuine friend of the brand and we have plenty more celebrities gravitating around the brand thanks to Arsenal." 

    After patiently posing for photographs with visitors to SalonQP, Ian Wright corroborated this story for WorldTempus. "A business colleague of mine told me about Bruno and what he was doing. I hear about this kind of thing all the time but when I finally sat down with him and listened to him speaking about the watches I could tell that he was as passionate about the watches as I am about football. The way he talked about the watches and the history dating back to 1681 was fascinating. And it came at a time when I was getting back into watches so I was in the market and I wasn't sure what to get. I like the fact that it's classy and understated, and because I wear it on my right hand, everybody notices it."

    The reason the former Arsenal forward was "in the market" was a particularly harrowing aggravated burglary at his home over the summer, during which his wife was held at knifepoint while his children were upstairs. Wright himself was in Brazil commentating on the World Cup for UK television and had to fly home to comfort his family. Apart from the emotional stress of the event, one of the physical losses he suffered was the theft of his entire watch collection, which included connoisseur models from the likes of Patek Philippe and Rolex. The unfortunate event has also led to a change in this collector's philosophy about watches.

    "It's almost like starting again," he said. "I'm most probably going to end up with a few Jeanrichard watches and I will probably buy the one they just launched. But what I will do now is buy watches to wear rather than collect. I still have a 1969 Paul Newman Rolex (the thieves didn't get that one because it was being repaired at Rolex) and I'm going to start wearing it."

    The new limited-edition model is the first chronograph in the Jeanrichard Terrascope line and comes with a new case in single-ply carbon, which has a uni-directional finish similar to brushing, even though the case undergoes no separate finishing after it is machined. It comes with the signature Jeanrichard "rubbergator" strap (rubber that is stamped to resemble alligator leather) with red stitching and, of course, the cannon of the Gunners as the small seconds counter. This strictly limited edition, of which only 50 will be produced, comes complete with a certificate of authenticity signed by three players from the current Arsenal squad, as well as - unusually - a 30cm diameter Jeanrichard wall clock.

    But why does Ian Wright prefer Jeanrichard in particular, when as a football pundit travelling around the world to cover the major soccer events he gets to experience the marketing activities of various watch brands, as well as compare tastes with his peers?
    "Footballers went through a phase of wearing massive watches," he explains, "which I call the silly phase. But what you see now is that they are going more for the elegant pieces, which is what I have always thought was synonymous with watches."

  • Collecting - Vintage Value Equation (1)


    WORLDTEMPUS - 2 August 2012

    Every vintage watch is different. Accordingly, a collector determining the value of each vintage wristwatch comes down to putting values into an equation. And, ultimately, each watch has its own value equation. Knowing how to quantify and calculate the variables in the equation is equal parts experience, education, astuteness, and power of observation. While there is no substitute for experience, there are resources that can speed up the learning curve: an expansive collector's library, bookmarking the best websites, and - frankly - buying and selling as many wristwatches as you can responsibly afford.
    As I explained to my wife many years ago (I don't think she believed me, but it's true), "Every time I buy and own a watch, I learn about the watch and learn from the transaction." Don't underestimate the learning also garnered when a watch is sold. You quickly learn which brands and models are the best to collect (which also equates to investing in), and which watches are better left to looking at pictures of.
     
    The first order of magnitude, in establishing the value of a vintage watch is authenticity. While a counterfeit watch has value in the sense that it may (or may not) keep time and may look nice, we are talking pennies on the dollar (and sometimes much less) in terms of comparing the value of a counterfeit watch to its authentic counterpart. Our starting presumption and the first step in the evaluation of any wristwatch must be: is this watch authentic?


    For the beginning collector, this is easier said than done. If you are going to be buying most of your watches from an established watch dealer, you can piggy-back on his or her experience and trust that you are purchasing authentic watches. Any dealer worth doing business with will guarantee the authenticity of any and all watches and will put that pledge in writing and offer a lifetime money-back guarantee should a watch turn out to be less than 100 percent authentic. Buying from established dealers allows you to safely spend your money and learn from each watch that you buy. Obviously, the dealer works on a profit, and buying from him or her may mean you are paying more than if you venture out into the wild by yourself. However, in my opinion, the extra layers of protection are worth the premium.
    This is where spending big on a watch library before you start spending big on watches will really pay off. There are numerous watch books available, all of which are illustrated with pictures. From coffee table books, magazines and watch annuals to auction catalogs and collector's value guides, each and every book will advance your education. Many of the Italian collector's books are excellent (and expensive, but worth every penny). There are Japanese books and magazines usually focused on Rolex watches that feature amazingly in-depth picture series on the various models and their iterations over time. The Antiquorum auction house offers many, also available on Amazon and eBay. Unfortunately, many of the best books are now out of print. However, my advice is to spend liberally on books. Even after you are an experienced collector, you will find yourself referring again and again to your library. I know I do, every day.


    Democratization of information is the essence of the Internet. There is no limit to the amount of learning one can achieve online. Antiquorum's online database of auction results is an educational goldmine. You can study the pictures of watches - each picture can be clicked on to open up a high definition image - and find out both what the experts on staff predicted the value of each watch would be at auction and what the watch actually sold for. Studying these results over time, one can learn which models do best in terms of value and which characteristics most closely correlate with a watch's value. Timezone is a great resource to spend days immersed in learning and DoubleRedSeaDweller is a magnificent website for Rolex Submariners and SeaDwellers. You should explore all that the Internet has to offer in terms of watch knowledge.
    However, there is simply no substitute for experience. You should strive to see as many watches as possible "in the metal." Holding watches in your hands, studying them under a loupe, feeling their weight, winding them, playing with their crowns and chronograph buttons, putting them on your wrist, and noticing every last detail is the surest way to know immediately if a watch is authentic and if it is not.

    Related stories:

    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (2)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (3)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (4)

  • Christie's - Record-Breaking Watch Auction in Geneve


    Christie's Geneva auction sale of Important Watches including A Gentleman's Pursuit for Excellence, Part I fetched a total result of SFr.27,042,825/$28,557,223/€22,445,545, selling 96% by lot and 97% by value.
    The exceptionally rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499/100, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1987 and offered from the collection of Eric Clapton, sold for SFr. 3,443,000 / $3,635,808 / €2,857,690, setting a world record price for this reference at auction.


    The top price of the sale was paid for the „J.B. Champion Platinum Observatory Chronometer, a unique platinum chronometer wristwatch, ref. 2458, which was specially manufactured by Patek Philippe for J.B. Champion, the legendary American watch collector, in 1952. This historically important timepiece realized SFr.3,779,000 / $3,990,624 / €3,136,570, setting a world auction record for a watch without complications.


    World record prices were also set for numerous references and models in the following categories: Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, antique and 20th century enamels, decorative watches and contemporary watches.
    Aurel Bacs, International Head of Christie's Watch Department, commented: "Christie's auction of Important Watches in Geneva performed extremely well, demonstrating great consistency at all levels in terms of watches, prices and clients. In a broad, healthy and ever growing market, where buyers demand expertise and scholarship, we offered once again the finest selection of watches and wristwatches. A packed saleroom, today's seven-hour marathon auction welcomed some 500 registrants from five continents, generating stellar sell-through rates as well as breaking numerous records. Collectors, public and private museums, the trade and also an investment watch fund, battled out the bidding for the best watches seen at auction this season, reconfirming Christie's market leadership in every horological category. This is our recipe: sourcing top quality properties, pricing them accurately, presenting them to the right audience, in the right place, at the right time".


    TOP LOT: J.B. CHAMPION PLATINUM OBSERVATORY CHRONOMETER
    The most valuable lot of the sale, an historically important and unique platinum chromometer wristwatch with Guillaume balance, Bulletin d'Observatoire, additional diamond-set dial and platinum bracelet, ref. 2458, made especially for J.B Champion by Patek Philippe in 1952, sold for SFr.3,779,000 / $3,990,624 / €3,136,570 (lot 88).
    ERIC CLAPTON'S PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 2499/100 IN PLATINUM
    Offered from the Collection of Eric Clapton, an exceptionally rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499/100, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1987, sold for SFr. 3,443,000 / $3,635,808 / €2,857,690 (lot 151). Only once previously sold at auction in 1989, it then changed hands for $250,999.
    A COLLECTION OF ANTIQUE POCKET WATCHES MADE FOR CHINESE MARKET
    100% sold by lot and by value, the sensational collection of antique watches, comprising the different styles made for the export to China, fetched a total result of SFr.2,303,500 / US$2,432,496 / €1,911,905, exceeding its pre-sale estimate by five times. The top lot of the collection was an exceptional gold and enamel openface centre seconds duplex watch with enamel by Jean-François-Victor Dupont, made for the Chinese market by William Ilbery, London, circa 1815 (lot 194), which sold for SFr.651,000 / US$687,456 / €540,330.
    The majority of the pieces offered for sale were acquired by the present owner and her late husband during their repeated journeys to the Orient between the late 1950s and the 1970s.
    A GENTLEMAN'S PURSUIT FOR EXCELLENCE, PART I
    Part I of A Gentleman's Pursuit For Excellence, a superb private collection of complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches and pocket watches, totalled SFr.1,332,000 / US$1,406,592 / €1,105,560. The top lot of the collection was a white gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 3448, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1974 (lot 316), which sold for SFr.387,000 / US$408,672 / €321,210.
    Part II will be offered at Christie's Geneva on 13 May 2013.

  • Rolex - Rolex Daytona Story


    It will not be just the world's biggest book on Rolex watches (together with "Rolex Submariner Story" and "Collecting Rolex Milgauss, Turn-O-Graph, Yacht-Master, Explorer") but also the most important edition ever done on Rolex: Rolex Daytona Story.
    A limited edition, in a large format, with unpublished material, very specific content, top quality images and updated estimates of all watches covered.
    All the usual features of Mondani's editions have been combined this time with the watch, which not only represents the dream of all enthusiasts, but is also an extremely important collector's item, the value of which will increase astronomically over the years.
    The authors are Osvaldo Patrizzi and Guido Mondani, two of the greatest Rolex experts worldwide.
     


    Throughout these pages, they illustrate all those small details which determine the enormous variations in watch value on the market today.
    All references are presented with the dates of the beginning and end of production as well as specifying all their main features: push-buttons, crown, bezel, dial, crystal, bracelets, graphic details of logos, writing and hallmarks.
    You will also discover many things about Patrizzi Dials, Floating Dials, inverted 6 and much more...
    From the Daytona manual winding models to the Oyster Perpetual series 16500 with Zenith caliber and Oyster Perpetual series 116500 with self-winding movement and Rolex caliber. Osvaldo Patrizzi and Guido Mondani, after years of research and study, will answer the main questions of modern collectors, like for example:
    Why the name Cosmograph?
    Do personalized case backs exist?
    What are the indexes of the Cosmograph dials like?
    Why do Rolex dials oxidize and change color?
    What are the differences between that dials of the series 16500
    and the ones of the series 116500?
    Updated estimates of all published Rolex watches are enclosed.

    BUY THE BOOK

  • Les Ambassadeurs - New Branch Manager for Zurich Boutique

    Representing a fine selection of the most prestigious watch and jewelry brands, the boutique located at Bahnhofstrasse 64 has been expertly managed for the last two years by Alberto Soria.

    Taking leave of Les Ambassadeurs to realize personal projects, Soria vacated the post, which has aroused quite a bit of interest in the industry. Les Ambassadeurs decided to place its confidence in Forster to carry the torch.


    Forster's career path, which began by learning the trade of watchmaker, is rich in experience. Having worked with famous brands such as Rolex and Audemars Piguet, trips and jobs abroad - notably in Singapore, China, Australia and the Caribbean - combine with his proximity to a successful clientele, with which he shares a sensibility to and passion for beautiful objects.
    After more than one month spent in the company and benefitting from Soria's support during this transitional period, Forster now takes charge of his brands. Today, he is eager for just one thing: to continue to transmit his limitless passion.

  • Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Submariner

    The archetype of the diver's watch, the Oyster Perpetual SUBMARINER presented at Baselworld 2012 sports a new look to complement its iconic personality. with its subtly redesigned case and its new bezel and bracelet both benefitting from recent Rolex innovations, this latest generation SUBMARINER is firmly in line with the tradition of the historic model launched in 1953. It sets new standards in terms of robustness, legibility and reliability, strengthening its status as a watch of action with timeless allure.

    Ceramic bezel and long-lasting luminescent display 

    The unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel of this new SUBMARINER is equipped with a black CERACHROM insert made of virtually scratchproof, non-fading, corrosion-resistant ceramic. The graduations are coated via a PVd process with a thin layer of platinum. The sleek black dial harbours large CHROMALIGHT hour markers and hands filled with luminescent material that emits a long-lasting blue glow. This exclusive display offers exceptional legibility in the dark. 

    The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness 

    The SUBMARINER's 40 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 300 metres (1,000 feet), is a paragon of robustness. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosion-resistant 904L steel. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TRIPLOCK triple waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case in a manner akin to a submarine's hatch. It is protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case ensures optimal protection for the SUBMARINER's high-precision movement.

    Calibre 3130, a superlative chronometer 

    The new SUBMARINER is equipped with calibre 3130, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3130 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. 

    The OYSTERLOCK clasp, functional and secure 

    This SUBMARINER is fitted with a solid-link OYSTER bracelet in 904L steel. It features a new-generation OYSTERLOCK safety clasp and GLIdELOCK extension system. The ingenious patented system, located beneath the clasp cover, allows fine adjustments of the bracelet length in 2 mm increments for a total of approximately 20 mm - without using any tools. This allows the watch to be worn over a diving suit up to 3 mm thick and provides additional comfort in any circumstance.

  • Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Day-Date II


    Gem-set splendour
    The majestic 18 ct yellow gold case of the DAY-DATE II originally launched in 2008 adopts a new champagne colour dial set with eight baguette-cut diamonds and two baguette-cut rubies at 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock. It also features a scintillating bezel set with 80 baguette-cut diamonds. The brilliance of precious stones and the glistening lustre of polished gold interact to give this bold and distinctive piece all the nobility it deserves.
    Rolex yellow gold
    The 18 ct yellow gold of the DAY-DATE II's OYSTER case and the PRESIDENT bracelet is alloyed by Rolex in its own foundry before being shaped in the brand's workshops. Its unique lustre is the result of the extreme care with which it is shaped, machined and finally polished.

    The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
    The DAY-DATE II's 41 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of elegance. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct gold. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TWINLOCK double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a CYCLOPS lens at 3 o'clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case allies refinement with efficiency in protecting the DAY-DATE II's high-precision movement.
    Calibre 3156, a superlative chronometer
    The DAY-DATE II is equipped with calibre 3156, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3156 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The oscillator is fitted between highperformance PARAFLEX shock absorbers, patented by Rolex, which offer 50 per cent greater resistance to shocks.

    Prestige and elegance of the PRESIDENT bracelet
    This DAY-DATE II model is fitted with the PRESIDENT bracelet in 18 ct yellow gold with a concealed folding CROWNCLASP. This prestigious and elegant bracelet with solid semi-circular links provides unique comfort and contributes fully to the aesthetics of the watch.

  • Rolex - Date Just II


    The DATEJUST II continues the tradition of the DATEJUST, the emblematic model created by Rolex in 1945, the first self-winding waterproof wristwatch chronometer to display the date in a window on the dial. A reinterpretation of that symbol of the modern watch, the DATEJUST II inspires admiration with its impressive case and technical attributes.
    The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
    The DATEJUST II's 41 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosion-resistant 904L steel. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TWINLOCK double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a CYCLOPS lens at 3 o'clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case allies refinement with efficiency in protecting the DATEJUST II's high-precision movement.

    Calibre 3136, a superlative chronometer
    The DATEJUST II is equipped with calibre 3136, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3136 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The oscillator is fitted between high-performance PARAFLEX shock absorbers, patented by Rolex, which offer 50 per cent greater resistance to shocks.

    Comfort and elegance of the OYSTER bracelet
    This DATEJUST II model is fitted with a 904L steel OYSTER bracelet with a folding OYSTERCLASP. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet offers remarkable comfort and ease of use. It also features the ingenious EASYLINK rapid extension system that allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance.


  • Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Day Date


    When it appeared in 1956, the DAY-DATE was the first wristwatch with a calendar indicating the day of the week spelt out in full in a window on the dial. The DAY-DATE adorned with a new gem-set dial perpetuates Rolex's legendary excellence and displays all the brand's watchmaking know-how and technology.

    Chocolate, diamonds and rubies
    In an 18 ct EVEROSE gold case of incomparable lustre, this DAY-DATE is fitted with a chocolate colour dial on which the hours are marked by precious stones: eight diamonds and, at 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock, baguette-cut rubies.

    Rolex pink gold

    The 18 ct EVEROSE gold of the OYSTER case and bracelet is alloyed by Rolex in its own foundry before being shaped in the brand's workshops. The incomparably warm tone of this exclusive pink gold alloy developed by Rolex is heightened by the addition of a touch of platinum. Its unique lustre is the result of the extreme care with which it is shaped, machined and finally polished.

    The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
    The DAY-DATE's 36 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of proportion and elegance. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct gold. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TWINLOCK double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The fluted bezel is a Rolex signature aesthetic feature. The crystal, with a CYCLOPS lens at 3 o'clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case allies refinement with efficiency in protecting the DAY-DATE's high-precision movement.
    Calibre 3155, a superlative chronometer
    This DAY-DATE is equipped with calibre 3155, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3155 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.

    Comfort and elegance of the OYSTER bracelet
    This DAY-DATE model is fitted with an 18 ct EVEROSE gold OYSTER bracelet with a concealed folding CROWNCLASP. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet offers remarkable comfort and ease of use.

  • Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona


    A bezel in all the colours of the rainbow
    Along with its 18 ct yellow gold case and bracelet, this COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA dons a bezel entirely set with an array of sapphires in rainbow colours. All the nuances of the celestial arc are visible, a delicate palette of reds, oranges, yellows, greens, blues, mauves and pinks. The subtle grace of these fascinating stones meticulously selected, assembled and set by Rolex is magical, endowing the watch with a stunning radiance.
    Also gem-set, the case lugs, crown guard as well as the hour markers on the dial participate in the exquisite allure of this variation on the DAYTONA theme.

    Exclusive GOLD CRYSTALS counters
    Contrasting with the black lacquer of the dial, the reflections of the GOLD CRYSTALS counters blend with the radiance of the precious stones. Crafted from an 18 ct gold alloy perfected by Rolex in its own foundry, these exclusive counters highlight the crystal structure of the gold in a seductive play of reflections and colours. Each counter is a natural work of art, different from every other.
    The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
    The COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA's 40 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of proportion and elegance. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct gold. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TRIPLOCK triple waterproofness system, as well as the chronograph pushers screw down securely against the case. It is protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case ensures optimal protection for the COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA's high-precision movement.

    Calibre 4130, a superlative chronograph chronometer
    The COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA is equipped with calibre 4130, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 4130 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring, patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.
    The OYSTERLOCK clasp, functional and secure
    This COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA is fitted with an OYSTER bracelet in 18 ct yellow gold with the latestgeneration OYSTERLOCK safety clasp to prevent accidental opening. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet also features the ingenious EASYLINK rapid extension system that allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance.

  • Christie's - Live And Let Die


    The present Rolex ref. 5513, modified by the famous Q Branch, is certainly the most memorable Submariner to appear in movies and must be considered a veritable trophy not only for the watch aficionado but also for the amateurs of cinematography and of James Bond in general.

    Especially designed for James Bond to be worn during 007''s mission in Live and Let Die, it was created in 1972 by the world-famous film production designer Syd Cain.
    Featuring not only a bezel spinning at high speed to cut ropes and chains, in the movie it also bore an ultra-b magnet which was supposed to neutralize bullets but was, instead, used by 007 to unzip Ms. Solitaire's dress.
    The lot will be sold together with an original construction drawing and two signed images from the set (estimate: SFr. 200,000 - 400,000).

  • Rolex - Explorer II on the Wrist

    Rumor has it that the new Rolex Explorer II was ready for presentation in 2010, but that Rolex did not present this new face-lifted version of the sporty watch until 2011 - 40 years after the first Explorer II was launched.
    For many years, Rolex has been respected as well as ridiculed for its conservative approach to case sizes: 40 millimeters seemed to be the biggest case diameter offered in the sports collection. In the last few years, we have seen more and more models with a tendency toward growth: Yacht-Master II and Sea-Dweller DeepSea both come in a case of 44 millimeter diameters, and now the Explorer II also offers a diameter of 42 millimeter.
    The Explorer II has never been the most popular reference made by the famed Swiss watch brand. The Submariner and GMT models have been the favored siblings, but even these two models still offer a moderate case diameter of 40 millimeters. Maybe Rolex wanted to push needed attention towards the Explorer II, hence the extra two millimeters?
     


    Large watch
    42 millimeters may seem like a large watch. However, since many parts and details of the new reference have grown, the visual size does not seem that radical. The case, hands, crown and hour markers are in other words dimensionally on par with the new case diameter. Visually, that is.
    Wearing the watch, however, does challenge the visual impression. The Explorer II is a large watch. Comparing this to Reference 1655 or Reference 16570, which came out even later, the size difference is almost shocking. As mentioned, this will please those who have not yet bought a Rolex because they thought the watches looked too puny on their wrists.
    Inspired by the past
    One of the obvious details on the new Explorer II is of course the orange 24-hour hand. "Freccione," as Italian Rolex collectors long ago named this hand, means "arrow". This is a feature taken directly from the Reference 1655 Explorer II launched in 1971. The 24-hour hand was not separately adjustable on the early version, though. It merely functioned as an AM/PM indicator. However, bezel design looks more like the bezel of the short-lived Reference 16550 that was introduced in 1985 and face-lifted already four years later.
     


    Phantom hands
    The hands of the new Explorer II sport a so-called phantom effect, which means the lower part of the hour and minute hand is painted black. This little detail makes the hands look like they float free of the arbor. This works well on the black dial version, and merely represents a great contrast on the white dial version.
    Latest movement update
    Reference 216570 is outfitted with Caliber 3187, which features the latest technical updates like Paraflex shock absorbers and the non-magnetic Parachrom hairspring, which "ensures unparallel reliability, and shock resistance," according to Rolex.
     


    White dial winner
    The white dial version, even if it does not correspond perfectly to the 1971 version that was only offered with a black dial, gets my vote as favorite of the two dial versions. The b, graphic black/white contrast makes it stand out as this watch brand really does not offer a lot of white-dial sports watches. Actually, only the Daytona and Yacht-Master II come with a white dial, but the GMT, Submariner and Yacht-Master models do not.
    Oldies but goodies
    This said, I admit to favor not only Reference 1655, but also the 16550 or even the 16570. Not only due to their case diameters of "only" 40 millimeters, but also because these earlier versions have a more tool-ish approach to horology. And this is, after all, where the Explorer II started - as an instrument watch for cave explorers.
    Rolex Explorer II Reference 216570 is offered with black or white dial and has a suggested retail price of 6,400 euros.
     

  • Success - Instinct vs strategy

    GMT Italia - Summer 2011

    Amongst the teams competing in the great watchmaking championships, two "dream teams" draw particular attention to themselves. One of them, led by Jean-Claude Biver, is stabled with the LMVH group. The other, under the watchful eye of Georges Kern, is to be found at the heart of the Richemont group.
    Both run a brand, while

    inspiring others, either directly or indirectly. Both are surrounded by a new generation of promising managers, such as Jean-Frederic Dufour at LMVH, or Alain Zimmermann at Richemont. Both implement their marketing strategies with unfailing efficiency. In both cases, obviously, we are talking about watchmaking, but also (above all?) about business.

    At LMVH, annual sales in the watchmaking and jewellery sector added up to close on a billion euro on December 31 last year, showing an almost insolent 29% increase. At Richemont, it took only six months to pass the 900 million euro mark with the watchmaking division alone. Here also, growth was nothing short of incredible: +38% for the semester April to September 2010! Both these captains of industry face huge pressure, stiff competition - including internally - and similar challenges: conquering new markets, managing the supply chain and distribution network, ensuring growth and coherence with the brand values. Even though the demands - and successes - are similar, their style is completely different. There is Jean-Claude Biver's spontaneous, creative marketing. This man shows off his brand, Hublot, in the most unexpected places, maximising opportunities at major events. He is able to evaluate an event and make a decision in just a few minutes, moving onto turf already occupied by his competitors. We saw him flirt with Alinghi before taking over its sponsorship from Audemars Piguet. We saw him on the illuminated referee boards at the last World Cup, as well as lighting up the Vendôme column standing at the heart of the most prestigious location in Paris - and incidentally right in the middle of the logo of Van Cleef & Arpels, a watchmaking colleague and competitor. His brand is to be found on skis, bicycles and even... cheese wheels!

    Georges Kern on the other hand, practises business school marketing with unfailing rigour. In his realm, creativity is not paramount, but is channelled and used as part of a long-term strategy. Be it IWC, Baume & Mercier or Roger Dubois, the markets are fragmented, with products distributed on a value pyramid and innovations selected depending on gaps that need to be filled, building the worlds of reference frameworks that accompany each brand down to the last detail. Baume & Mercier is spending this year under the Capeland banner, with its American East Coast flavour, while IWC took up residence in Portofino. Roger Dubois is ticking to casino time and even its USB sticks are shaped like gambling chips. Exuberance vs rigour, instinct vs strategy, the completely opposing style of these two men is apparent on all levels. Take their annual reports on the figures and performance of their brands.

    The Richemont Group to which IWC belongs tends not to say too much and prefers to opt for secrecy, much in the same manner as private banks, as if opacity were a measure of power and success. In this respect, the operational style of the group chaired by Johann Rupert is very similar to that of Rolex. Jean-Claude Biver, on the other hand, sends waves of text messages to announce the results of his most recent exhibition, or the signing of a new partnership. At the end of the day, the information that he is supposedly sharing is necessarily only partial, but it is shared with such enthusiasm that it leaves a pleasantly transparent aftertaste.

    The numbers are either stifled or proclaimed to the world at large, and the managers themselves also opt for high or low profiles. Jean-Claude Biver pops up all over the place in the columns of the financial press or social magazines.Georges Kern is more discreet, and while he is quite happy to appear next to football, cinema or literary celebrities, as soon as the public is involved, he promotes the brand itself. Asthey say at Richemont, "The brand is the star". So basically we are looking at two very different recipes for creating the same dish - success.

  • Tennis & Timepieces - High Profile Venue for Watches


    WORLDTEMPUS - 8 June 2011

    The world-class tennis tournament in the heart of Paris seems to be the stage that tennis has set to show off players' and spectators' love of watches.
    Rafael Nadal's spectacular win over Roger Federer in the finals of the tournament - his sixth French Open championship on the slow red clay in seven years - represents a continuation of Richard Mille's foray into high-profile ambassadorships. Confirming Mille's ever-accurate nose, world number one Nadal has been on a serious winning streak since first strapping the controversial RM 027 tourbillon to his sweaty wrist last spring.


    Some watches played on the clay right along with the players. Richard Mille defeated Rolex in the finals - in every sense. While Nadal seems more than content to wear the ultra-light, ultra-expensive, and ultra-cool black tourbillon during play and practice, Rolex has not yet been able to convince Federer to don his flavor of the day while swatting the yellow felt ball.
    Young Talents
    Five-time French Open sponsor Longines has also not been able to convince its many spokesplayers to wear one of its watches while playing either. Asked about this, CEO Walter von Känel was unconcerned. "It's a personal choice," he said.
    Longines sponsors a number of young talents in the tennis arena. This year, the brand put on the fairly lavish Future Tennis Aces program, which allowed sixteen under-13-year-old players from all over the world to come to Roland Garros for a week, partake in a tournament on the actual tournament grounds, and soak up the atmosphere of professional tennis.
    Additionally, Longines also runs a program it calls the Rising Tennis Stars, which aims to support young tennis talents between the ages of 17 and 21 years as they develop their careers. These Rising Stars currently include Grigor Dimitrov, the 20-year-old number-one tennis player from Bulgaria, ranked number 64 in the ATP Tour rankings; Tiago Fernandes, Brazil's the number-one tennis player under 21 and currently ranked 392 on the ATP computer; Tsung-Hua Yang, the first player from Taiwan to be the number one junior player in the world, currently ranked 302 by the ATP; Sabine Lisicki of Germany, who reached a career high as number 22 in the WTA rankings in August 2009; Ryan Harrison (USA), who reached a career-high no. 7 in world junior rankings in 2008 and is currently ranked no. 119 on the ATP computer; 18-year-old Roberto Carballes Baena (Spain) is currently ranked number 446 by the ATP and number 11 on the ITF Junior World rankings; and Sai-Sai Zheng (China), currently ranked no. 275 on the WTA Tour, is one of the highest ranked 17-year-old players.
    During Roland Garros, Longines also awarded former world number one Jim Courier with the Longines Prize for Elegance, which he received from Longines ambassador Andre Agassi. He received it as a tribute to his work with disadvantaged children, notably through his foundation Courier's Kids.

  • Rolex - Gian Riccardo Marini New CEO


    WORLDTEMPUS - 4 May 2011

    Rolex reported yesterday that a change has taken place at the top of its management. Up to this point, Gian Riccardo Marini was head of Rolex Italy. The 64-year-old had been managing the Italian branch since 2000.
    Bruno Meier took over as Rolex's CEO in 2008; before that he was the company's chief financial officer. In Rolex also announced that Daniel Neidhart is now in charge of the foreign branches of the company. Neidhart will fill this newly created position from an office in Hong Kong. Neidhart was previously in charge of Rolex's Chinese distribution.

  • Rolex - The Evolution of the Explorer II


    WORLDTEMPUS - 2 May 2011


    The Rolex Explorer II (reference 1655) - originally only offered with black dial - was produced to meet the needs of cave explorers operating in the dark and not able to tell whether it was day or night. This explains the distinct orange fourth sweep hand on the watch, which indicates AM or PM via the 24-hour bezel. This design was nick-named "freccione" in the 1990s by Italian collectors, which means "big arrow."
    Admittedly, the target group for this watch is rather narrow. One would think that Rolex would at least have taken other groupings of professional explorers that might benefit from this feature into consideration when the Explorer II was originally presented in 1971.


    Radical change
    Since 1971 the Explorer II has only been updated three times, including this year's relaunch. In 1985, Rolex introduced Reference 16550, which for the first time offered the choice of white or black dial as well as a new movement allowing quick date change and the possibility to set the 24-hour hand to a different time zone. The 16550 also introduced sapphire crystal and an upgraded font engraving on the bezel, and the hands were of a different and subtler design matching other Rolex sport models. Reference 1655's hand design was entirely unique to this reference.



    Subtle update

    These updated details were repeated when Rolex introduced Reference 16570 in 1989; to a layman's eyes the difference between Reference 16550 with a black dial and Reference 16570 will probably not be visible. The difference between Reference 16550 with a white dial and Reference 16570 is, however, rather obvious. The 16550 white dial version turned creamy due to a fragile coating. Also, the white dial version now had black hands instead of light-colored, white gold hands that actually made it hard to see the time with a light-colored dial in the background.
    Faulty frenzy
    Faults like the white dial of Reference 16550 turning creamy is, however, something Rolex collectors will pay big bucks for. Rolex today is a watch brand that oozes perfection and conservatism, which is why mishaps like a fragile dial coating is interesting for collectors around the world.



    40 becomes 42

    References 1655, 16550 and 16570 were all housed in a 40-millimeter case diameter, just like the Rolex GMT-Master, Daytona, Submariner and Sea-Dweller. However the new Explorer II sports a buffed-up 42-millimeter case, making it the biggest of the aforementioned ticking siblings, and 2 millimeters smaller than the Yacht-Master II and DeepSea.
    Undoubtedly, many Rolex fans will appreciate the new, larger case, but I wonder if Rolex added the extra 2 millimeters to simply draw attention to the Explorer II, which has been overshadowed for decades by its best-selling siblings in the sports lines.
    Of course, we will never know this as Rolex representatives are as tight about the company's watch production as the Oyster cases are about water.

  • Perth - The Final Frontier


    WORLDTEMPUS - 15 April 2011


    For better or worse Australia is not typically a market that garners a great deal of interest from the luxury watch industry. The perception is that it's too far away, consumer tastes aren't sophisticated enough, and there is not enough population. Certainly most of the big names in watchmaking maintain a presence, but the ranges are generally limited and many of the high-end complications never seem to reach Australia's shores.
    Nowhere is the effect of this isolation felt more bly than in Perth, the capital city of Western Australia. Thanks to the significant distance that separates it from the "big" cities on the eastern seaboard - it takes more than five hours to fly to Sydney - Perth is often left out altogether. While this is not terribly surprising, it does demonstrate an incredible lack of foresight.


     
    Boom Times
    Although Perth may be relatively small from a population standpoint at approximately 1.7 million, it is a rapidly expanding city fueled largely by the astronomical growth of the mining industry and China's insatiable appetite for its resources. Thanks to this burgeoning prosperity, there are more self-made millionaires per capita in Perth than anywhere else in world. Indeed, such is the demand that people come from all over Australia seeking work there.
    With these favorable factors at play, it is of little surprise that a number of serious collectors call Perth home. What is interesting, however, is that despite being shown little interest from the industry they have still managed to cultivate a sophisticated watch scene that extends far beyond well-known, mainstream brands such as Rolex, Omega and Patek Philippe (although plenty of those are sold in Perth too). While brands may not publicly disclose the information, or perhaps even be aware of it, a number of private collections feature pieces from prominent independent watchmakers.

    Have Money, Will Travel

    One of the reasons why Perth has such a sophisticated subset of collectors may be its location. Rather than fly across the country to Sydney or Melbourne to view relatively limited collections, wealthy residents of Perth can take a short, four-hour flight and find themselves in one of the most impassioned watch cities in Asia: Singapore. Here they are exposed to a wide range of brands and have the opportunity to handle pieces that will never make it to Australian retailers. They also benefit from having access to extremely knowledgeable staff (arguably some of the best in Asia) who are very well informed about the brands, the products and of course all the latest industry news.


     
    While collectors may be forced to buy some of their pieces overseas, there is a flow-on, word-of-mouth effect for the local market as these individuals often move in wealthy circles and share similar tastes. One day a businessman spots an MCT Sequential One on his associate's wrist and asks where he got it. A passionate conversation ensues and within minutes another Perth resident has had his or her eyes opened to a completely new segment of the luxury watch market he or she never knew existed. This person catches the next plane to Singapore and so the cycle is perpetuated.
    Because all these people are buying their timepieces overseas, very few people actually realize that this small but incredibly affluent market exists.
    That is set to change very soon, however, with some exciting developments ensuring that the city of Perth will begin to feature prominently on the watch industry's map. While confidentiality prevents disclosure of too many details at this point in time, this will be an event the likes of which the Australian watch market has not seen before. For the time being though, wealthy Perth collectors will continue to travel overseas to spend their hard earned money, leaving Australian brand managers tearing out their hair in frustration.

  • Rolex - Lady-Datejust

    The new Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust in yellow or white ROLESOR exudes elegance and distinction. A harmonious marriage of colours and materials, this redesigned classic celebrates the timeless beauty of Rolex precision. The moment is precious, the future full of promise.

    The infinite poetry of gold crystals
    The GOLD CRYSTALS dial of the new Lady-Datejust is an exquisite homage to femininity. Obtained using an exclusive process that magnifies the natural crystal structure of the gold, it captures the light and gleams in an extraordinary play of glistening reflections. Infinite poetry, an invitation to dream. As if by magic, the crystals of the noble metal are revealed in all their splendour, creating incomparable depth that delights the eye. On one particular version of this model, the Rolex JUBILe motif appears in a secret and mysterious filigree, a door opening onto the imaginary. Each GOLD CRYSTALS dial is a work of art in itself, as unique as the lady who wears it.

    Sublime in its delicate design, the version with the ivory coloured dial with a "sunbeam" guilloche pattern enchants with its clean lines, its extreme finesse, its infinite charm.

    The elegance of diamonds
    All the dials of this new interpretation of the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust are graced with 10 diamonds which add to the originality and the subtle radiance of the watch face.

    Entirely gem-set, the bezel brings yet another touch of luxury and elegance. Its 46 brilliant-cut diamonds sparkle like so many invaluable treasures which, at each reading of the time, remind us of their timeless splendour.

    A hymn to femininity
    Feminine down to the last detail, an ode to charm and romanticism, the new Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust embodies absolute grace. It is nonetheless, like all Oyster watches, a waterproof chronometer equipped with a PERPETUAL rotor self-winding mechanical movement. To wear this gem of a watch is to live every moment intensely with the promise of a radiant future.

  • Harry Winston - The Opus Era Continues

    Harry Winston's Opus has become more than a collection of outstanding timepieces. This blend of watchmaking dreams come true tells a story of determination that has turned into a cultural phenomenon, recreated annually by talented people who know how to derive synergy from an equal commitment to art and technology. For the past 10 years, Harry Winston has called on the originality and skills of independent watchmakers to realize its concept of superior watchmaking. For Harry Winston, watches reflect a passionate belief that you can - and must - go beyond the imaginable. Today, the House of Harry Winston is proud to present its 11th Opus, a watch that shatters watchmaking notions to bring you the disintegration of time itself.

    An extremely complex case stages the show. The three overlapping cylinders on three levels are configured to deconstruct time. The main circle is the hour's domain, flanked by two pavilions. One shows the minutes on a jumping disk for the tens and a running disk for the units. The other, slightly lower, displays the regular beat of a big titanium balance-wheel.
    Anarchy takes hold of the hours indication beneath the sapphire-crystal dome every 60 minutes. The numeral of the hour, assembled in the center of the circle, explodes into chaos before instantly reassembling as the new hour. It then remains still until the next disintegration. Instead of a hand, 24 placards revolve and rotate on a complicated system of gears mounted on an epicycloidal gear-train. Four satellites mounted on a rotating platform, each with three pairs of placards, provide a vertical transmission through a train of eight intermediate wheels, three elliptical gears, a triangular wheel and six conical pinions. The bevel gears are responsible for changing the axis of rotation of the placards and positioning them according to an elaborate drill maneuver. The triangular wheel and elliptic gears are calculated to vary the gear ratio to absorb shocks and prevent the placards colliding.
    The tooth profiles of the triangular and elliptical gearing have been obtained using sophisticated programs. These are today so powerful that they can calculate and display unconventional, and even extreme, gearing and analyze different parameters such as backlash. Parts are manufactured using photolithography, which produces micro-components to a precision unobtainable by traditional machining methods.
    The conical pinions for the bevel gears are just 1.2mm wide, yet their teeth are exactly profiled and angled, thanks to a new gear-cutting technique.
    The path taken by the placards has been calculated to minimize the space required for them to turn over. However, the shell of sapphire crystal, also extremely difficult to manufacture, gives ample room for the hourly animation.


    The transparent display back of the gold case reveals a manually wound movement in the style of the old pocket-watch movements with a big balance-wheel. Consisting of 566 components, including 155 jewels, the mechanism is finished in the most traditional manner of classic watchmaking, in sharp contrast to the crazy display of the hour. One version of the watch is gem-set in the contemporary style: a simple line of princess-cut diamonds lights up the contour of the caseband.
    The appointment has been fixed. The hour comes apart at its end, leaving its particles to explode outwards and be turned into new hours ad infinitum. Such complexity and ingenuity make Opus Eleven an important milestone in Harry Winston's exploration of time.
    Limited edition of 111 watches.



    DENIS GIGUET


    Denis Giguet trained as an engineer and started making a name for himself in fine watchmaking. The experience he gained with such firms as Rolex and Harry Winston developed into a visionary approach far in advance of the watchmaking industry. Familiar with the design and construction of highly complicated watches, he worked as production manager at Harry Winston. In 2007 he launched his own brand, MCT, and designed the Sequential One, a far-reaching development in creative engineering for which he involved the crafts of more than 20 experts in their fields. His creative energy has given birth to Opus Eleven, a timepiece where his own vision of time is perfectly expressed by the Harry Winston personality.

  • Antiquorum - Edmund Hillary's family feud over watch sale

    swisster.ch - November 12, 2010


    Hillary's son and daughter obtain a legal injunction, saying the timepieces consigned by their stepmother for bids rightly belong to them, while the New Zealand government also expresses concerns.
    A New Zealand court is blocking the planned auction in Geneva this Sunday of Rolex watches originally owned by the late legendary mountain climber Sir Edmund Hillary as members of his family feud over who owns them.
    Antiquorum has advertised several of the luxury timepieces consigned for sale by Lady June Hillary, widow and second wife of the late adventurer, who died in 2008.
    But a high court from Hillary's native country granted an injunction this week at the request of lawyers acting on behalf of the climber's son Peter and daughter Sarah, who claim they own the watches.
    In addition, the New Zealand government said it regards the watches of national cultural importance.
    The injunction instructs Lady Hillary to ask Antiquorum to withdraw them from sale.
    The auctioneer continued on Friday to include the watches in advertising for its weekend auctions on its website.
    An Antiquorum representative could not be immediately reached for comment.
    The collection is part of a group of 643 "important modern and vintage timepieces" to be sold under the hammer by Antiquorum during a two-day sale this weekend at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel.


    One of them is a Rolex "Oyster Perpetual" chronometer dating from 1953 that was presented to Edmund Hillary in India after his descent from Mount Everest in honour of his achievement the same year.
    At the age of 33, he and Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay became the first climbers known to have climbed the summit of the world's highest mountain.
    Hillary subsequently wore the watch on a trans-Antarctic expedition from 1955 to 1958, the first overland crossing of Antarctica and the first expedition to reach the South Pole since British explorer Robert Scott in 1912.
    "It has immense historic significance," Antiquroum says in its online catalogue, noting that the caseback is engraved "Sir E. Hillary".
    The watch is valued at between 10,000 and 20,000 francs.
    Another timepiece in the collection is an 18-carat yellow gold Rolex bought on May 29, 2003 by Hillary on the 50th anniversary of the day he reached the summit of Everest.
    Its estimated value is between 8,000 and 10,000 francs.
    Among the other Rolexes are ones bought by Hillary to commemorate the 20th anniversaries of the Everest climb and his attempted ascent of Himalayan peak Cho Oyu from the Nepal side in 1952.
    The estimated value of the watches is not in the upper reaches often seen at Geneva auctions.
    The headline watch in Antiquorum's weekend sale, for example, is a rare Patek Philippe "pink gold" wristwatch valued at between 800,000 and 1.2 million francs, and the auction house says it has sold 49 watches valued at more than a million francs.
    But the New Zealand Ministry for Culture and Heritage said at least one of the Hillary watches has legal protection under the country's Legal Objects Act.
    According to press reports from New Zealand the government wrote to Lady Hillary's lawyers on Friday to inform her of the watch's protected status.
    Under the country's law, protected objects cannot by exported without the permission of the culture and heritage ministry.
    However, its is not clear whether the injunction has any legal bearing in Switzerland.
    It is possible that officials New Zealand government may have to contact Bern in order to intervene.
    Hillary's son and daughter said their stepmother put the watches up for sale without asking them, according to a report from the New Zealand Press Association.
    Peter Hillary said it was "very sad" he and his sister had had to take court action to stop Lady Hillary from going ahead with the sale, but it was the straw which had broken the camel's back.
    "There have been a number of very significant items from the Ed Hillary collection that do belong to Sarah and I, that have been disposed of inappropriately," he said.
    "I believe that it has been stopped for the time being and we are hopeful we can preserve these legacy items," Peter Hillary added.
    "They, along with a lot of other items, are of great significance to this family and I would suggest in some respects to New Zealand, in terms of being important items from the Ed Hillary collection."
    Neither Lady Hillary nor her lawyer were available to the press for comment.
    June Hillary married the climber in 1989 after his first wife and one of his two daughters died in a plane crash in Nepal in 1975.

  • COSC - An External Referee


    WORLDTEMPUS - 2 November 2010


    Few would argue that accuracy is an unimportant quality for a watch. However, every day consumers purchase mechanical watches that offer no basic assurance of horological precision. There are, however, several firms that capitalize on the services of the independent Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (COSC) as a guarantor of their watches' fundamental accuracy within -4 to +6 seconds per day.


    Last year at the SIHH, Roger Dubuis, a firm that has famously employed the aesthetic standards of the Geneva Seal, announced that it would add a second layer of external oversight by also submitting movements to the COSC.
    For Claude Vuillemez, the COO of Roger Dubuis, the appeal of COSC certification is obvious.
    "We are a young manufacture," Vuillemez told Worldtempus, "and to get recognition we are looking to external referees like COSC on chronometry and Timelab on functionality to validate our technical expertise."
    Breitling has cultivated its image around the fact that it is first and foremost a maker of chronometer-rated instrument watches. Indeed, every Breitling timepiece, quartz or mechanical, is also a COSC-certified chronometer.


    "Like in aviation, where every instrument needs to be certified, COSC is an independent laboratory checking the precision of every single Breitling movement for 15 days in 5 positions and at 3 different temperatures," said Breitling executive vice president Jean-Paul Girardin.

    Who's Who?

    The COSC releases annual lists ranking the brands receiving the most certifications, with Rolex, Omega and Breitling perennially occupying the top three spots.
    The global recession contributed to a shake-up of the list in 2009, with Ball Watch, a relatively small producer, breaking into the top ten (at number eight) for the first time in its history — with 15,455 certifications.
    Jeffrey Hess, president of Ball Watch in North America, attributes his firm's rise not so much to any specific actions taken by the Swiss watch company with American roots, but to cutbacks in production at some competitors.
    While 2009 was difficult for much of the industry, Hess says it was actually a fairly good year for Ball Watch — which led to no reduction in production of certified chronometers.
    Ball Watch has another reason for its interest is chronometer certification. Historically, the firm submitted pocket watches to the U.S. Bureau of Standards as a measure intended to ensure the accuracy of its famous railroad chronometers. These were the precise timekeepers used by railroad engineers to avoid potentially disastrous collisions. Hess sees the modern COSC as an extension of this legacy.


    At the very least, a modern COSC-certified wristwatch will help its wearer make his or her train on time — as Webster C. Ball originally intended.
     

  • Arcadia - Rebirth of the Brand


    Swiss watchmaking has continued to reinvent itself throughout the centuries as Swiss craftsmen, inspired by their passion and love of tradition, strive to enhance their precision expertise.
    Maison Bunter, one of the leading specialists in major complications and jewel-setting, has been fired by such passion for some 155 years. Today Bunter is proud to present Arcadia: an innovative watchmaking concept that rises to the challenge of reviving one of the greatest emblems of Switzerland's watchmaking heritage.


    During the 19th century the Arcadia brand was the symbol of Swiss watchmaking excellence and the standard-bearer of the celebrated Fleurier Watch Company, whose creative approach would inspire generations of watchmakers. Now, after falling victim to the 'quartz revolution,' Arcadia, and its incredibly avant-garde models, are being reborn under Bunter President Claude Sanz - a passionate devotee of watchmaking history.
    This new adventure, imbued with unfettered imagination, offers a fresh approach to communicating the values of traditional Swiss watchmaking around the world.

    HISTORY
    1858 - 1970 : Arcadia

    In the early 19th century Swiss watchmaking - hitherto a craftsman's activity - enjoyed one of its earliest industrial booms.
    Thanks to Edouard Bovet, one of the first watchmakers to target the Far Eastern market, the number of watchmakers in Fleurier (a village in the Val-de-Travers near Neuchâtel) more than tripled inside 30 years.
    Jules-Samuel Jequier, who was born in the village in 1835, chose to devote his life to watchmaking from an early age. He joined Bovet in 1856 after training as a jewel-cutter and, thanks to his enthusiasm and entrepreneurial zest, rose swiftly through the firm's ranks.
    Later, helped by his five sons, Jules-Samuel Jequier founded the Fleurier Watch Company, a manufacturer devoted to jewel-cutting and designing watch calibres. The growth of the watchmaking industry would inspire the Jequiers to launch a number of different watchmaking brands.
    Among them: Arcadia.


    rcadia was founded in 1858 and became the flagship of the Fleurier Watch Company. The classically-inspired Fleurier brand enjoyed great renown among connoisseurs of quality watches, epitomized by names like Breitling and Rolex.
    Arcadia watches displayed amazing creativity for the time.
    This avant-garde brand produced some particularly stylish collections, typified by some of its early 20th century models - symbols of Swiss ancestral tradition imbued with modern, indeed contemporary, vision.
    But the arrival of quartz was to be the downfall for many Swiss watchmakers, who failed to realize the importance of the 1970s electronic revolution. Swiss mechanical watches were left behind by cheap, mass-produced, electronic watches from abroad. The resultant economic crisis lasted 15 years and threatened the entire sector, coming close to completely destroying traditional Swiss watchmaking.
    Many Swiss watchmaking firms were forced to close, taking with them the brands which had underpinned their success. Arcadia was no exception and, over a century after its launch by the Fleurier Watch Company, sank into oblivion.


    2010 : Rebirth of Arcadia

    Arcadia represents the crowning glory to an exceptional career and the fulfilment of a dream for a man to whom watchmaking is far more than a job. Claude Sanz cuts a unique figure in the watchmaking world: a trained geologist and mineralogist, as well as an expert in setting and mechanical complications.
    Nearly forty years ago Sanz acquired Bunter, a firm specializing in the cutting of industrial stones and rubies needed for watchmaking. Today, thanks to their mastery of invisible settings and de luxe, made-to-measure projects, Bunter are recognized by all the pre-eminent Swiss watchmaking firms.
    For Sanz, work is a passion: a passion for timepieces, for horological savoir-faire and for watchmaking history. It is also a dream... one he has secretly entertained for many years, to blend his skill and experience with the launch of a watchmaking brand that would write the final chapter of a story that began 35 years ago.
    "When you make watch components, you inevitably think about creating your own brand," says Sanz.
    But his ambition goes further. As a keen historian, he dreams of pursuing the mission of a Swiss watchmaking firm in the purest mechanical tradition - albeit one adapted to the contemporary era.
    In the 1990s Claude Sanz learnt about the incredible story of the Fleurier Watch Company and its star brand, Arcadia. He was fascinated by this forgotten watchmaking venture, and promptly decided to take over the Arcadia brand - which had fallen into the public domain - and revive its century-old traditions. "Arcadia calibres were highly innovative for the time, and the Fleurier Watch Company was considered an international ambassador of Swiss watchmaking," he explains. Today the industry is witnessing a return to small mechanical movements, so Arcadia is perfect for the 21st century! It's the start of a whole new adventure.
    The Arcadia renaissance is underway. With Bunter's structural and technical support, Claude Sanz has set about renovating each Arcadia calibre in the purest watchmaking tradition, inserting them into modern cases with sleek designs, made using the latest avant-garde technologies and materials.
    A combination of the richness of the past and the boldness of the future, Arcadia aims to showcase and perpetuate an exceptional, time-honoured, heritage on the international scene - and restore the prestige of a watchmaking symbol that was the pride of Switzerland for over a hundred years.


    AC01 : Transcending tradition
    With its modern, virile look, the first re-edition of the Arcadia collection strides confidently into the 21st century - while retaining the utmost respect for watchmaking's greatest traditions.


    This can be seen in the powerful design of this audaciously restyled retro model. While retaining its DNA - rounded shapes for the watch and displays within a tonneau case - the Arcadia AC01 has been entirely redesigned in line with today's technical codes. This new design approach is one of extremes: the watch combines harmonious volumes with aggressive elegance, with visible screws and push-pieces reworked to appear part of the case.
    The watch is made from such avant-garde materials as titanium (for the case), carbon (for the split-level dial), and anti-allergenic technological fibre (for the strap), married to watchmaking functions that evoke the awesome savoir-faire of the Fleurier Watch Company: the hour-and-minute display in the centre of the dial is surrounded by four skillfully juxtaposed sub-dials with original, extra functions (including chronograph, date and 24-hour time-zone index). The automatic movement, with 18-carat pink gold rotor, can be admired through a transparent case-back.
    Watchmaking tradition transcended! The watch is edited in a limited series of 275, and offered for sale with a revolutionary concept ideally suited to the era of new technologies: much in the manner of an iPhone or iPad, all data linked to the model (guarantee, aftersale service, orders for further timepieces) is entered on a USB key given to the owner and activated on-line at time of purchase.
    Another novelty: each Arcadia model comes with a travelling case in supple, ultra-resistant neoprene for easy transport and maximum protection.

  • Richard Mille - Queens Sponsor and More


    WORLDTEMPUS - 14 June 2010


    "It's not Tiffany's, it's NASA," Mille leaned over and told me at lunch in the President's Room at the Queens Club in London, where he had gathered a few business partners and journalists to watch the semifinals of the Aegon Queens Club tournament in London. The idea was to cheer on his sponsored player, world number one Rafael Nadal, in the semifinals—but Nadal had lost the previous day in the quarters to fellow young Spaniard Feliciano Lopez. The clever saying Mille repeated to me was actually nicked from Miguel Seabra, Portuguese watch journalist and tennis commentator for Eurosport. Seabra had coined the phrase during the French Open the previous week to aid in explaining the significance of the obvious black watch Nadal wears on court to his tennis colleagues from the press. Nadal and the watch have been experiencing heavy critique for the RM 027 RN's price tag of $525,000—a price that can certainly seem exorbitant to the casual spectator.

    Indeed, this is an unusually high fee for a watch with no bling even in the watch industry, but Mille explained that the price was actually justified as it is outfitted with a tourbillon and—particularly—it has needed thousands of hours of development as well as a trial-and-error period on court with Nadal for almost three-quarters of a year to discover its weak points, correct them, and make the watch light enough for wear on court (it weights 13 grams without strap and 18 with the rubber attachment). To achieve this lightness and continue to ensure the accurate functioning of model RM 027 RN a number of new materials new to the watchmaking industry such as LITAL, an alloy of aluminum, lithium, copper, magnesium and zirconium, were used. This alloy is also utilized in the aerospace industry—on the Airbus A380; in helicopters, rockets and satellites—and in Formula 1 racecars. Using materials outside the established watch industry like this is a Richard Mille specialty. The company's previous partnership with Formula 1 driver Felipe Massa helped research its extreme style of watchmaking in much the same way.
    "This is an extreme object," Mille describes Nadal's watch. "Divide all the R&D plus all the test watches needed by the fifty pieces that are available in the limited edition, and that is about the price that comes out," he explained to me during the Queens tournament. "Whatever I have to invest , is what I invest."

    Nadal, who Mille describes as "not an ambassador, but a true partner," will next play at the tennis world's Olympus: Wimbledon. At the grass-court tournament, where the players are obliged to play in all-white clothing, the RM 027 RN (48 x 39.7 x 11.85 mm in size) will stick out like the proverbial sore thumb—particularly since none of Nadal's colleagues wear a watch on court except Justine Henin, who has made the personal choice to play with a Rolex perched on her left wrist. Whether the tennis press will continue to shake heads at it, though, remains to be seen. Perhaps by then Seabra will have been able to spread the gospel: bling this is not.

  • Christie's - Sale results



    SFr.6,259,000, $5,708,833, €4,393,192
    Patek Philippe - an 18K gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, ref. 1527  
    Estimation: SFr.1,500,000-2,500,000  
    Buyer: Swiss Private Museum
    Patek Philippe - an 18K gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, ref. 2499  
    Estimation:SFr.600,000-900,000  
    SFr.963,000 , $878,352, €675,929  
    Buyer: Anonymous
    Patek Philippe - an 18K gold full calendar wristwatch, ref. 96 
    Estimation: SFr.600,000-900,000  
    SFr.723,000, $659,448, €507,473  
    Buyer: European Collector
    SFr.723,000, $659,448, €507,473  
    Patek Philippe - an 18K gold hinged single button chronograph wristwatch, manufactured in 1924  
    Estimation:SFr.400,000-600,000  
    Buyer: European Private
    SFr.675,000, $615,667 ,€473,782 
    Patek Philippe - an 18K pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, ref. 1518  
    Estimation: SFr.500,000-800,000  
    Buyer: European Collector
    SFr.603,000, $549,996 , €423,245
    Patek Philippe - a stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with two-tone silvered dial and luminous hands, ref. 530, manufactured in 1942 
    Estimation: SFr.500,000-700,000  
    Buyer: European Private
    Patek Philippe - an 18K pink gold dual time zone wristwatch, ref. 2597  Estimation: SFr.350,000-500,000  
    SFr.555,000, $506,215 , €389,554  
    Buyer: Asian Collector

    SFr.531,000, $484,325 , €372,708  
    Patek Philippe - an 18K gold perpetual calendar wristwatch, with moon phases, ref. 1526  
    Estimation: SFr.300,000-500,000  
    Buyer: European Collector
    SFr.459,000, $418,653, €322,172   
    Patek Philippe - an 18K gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch,  ref. 3448  
    Estimation: SFr.250,000-350,000  
    Buyer: European Collector
    SFr.447,000, $407,708, €313,749  
    Rolex - 18K pink gold triple calendar chronograph wristwatch, ref. 6036  Estimation: SFr.200,000-300,000  
    Buyer: European Private
    _________________________________Geneva - With nearly 370 watches offered, Christie's "marathon auction" in Geneva achieved an outstanding total of $21,099,940 / SFr.23,133,363 / € 16,237,307, far exceeding its pre-sale total estimate of 13 to 18 million Swiss francs and selling 96% by value and by lot, with a record attendance of 831 bidders from 5 continents.
    The Top Lot of the sale was a unique Patek Philippe chronograph wristwatch, ref.1527, which sold for $5,708,833 (SFr.6,259,000 / €4,393,192) against an estimate of SFr.1,500,000-2,500,000 and became the new record price for any yellow gold watch ever sold at auction (pictured above right.) The blockbuster event of the European auction season of haute horlogerie, Important Watches - Including A Connoisseur's Vision Part II, confirmed once more Christie's undisputed global leadership in the market of fine collector's watches.
    Aurel Bacs, International Co-Head of Christie's Watch Department , commented: "The extraordinary results Christie's achieved today in Geneva with Important Watches - Including A Connoisseur's Vision Part II reflect the passion of an increasingly broad audience of watch lovers and collectors. We are proud to announce that following the success of last November's sale of A Connoisseur's Vision Part I, the second part of the most important private collections of Patek Philippe wristwatches in the world ever offered at auction, now also become the most expensive one ever sold. As with the Part I sale, 100% of the lots were sold with a combined total of almost SFr.16 million, led by the Mona Lisa of all watches, the unique Patek Philippe chronograph wristwatch, ref.1527, which sold for an outstanding $5,708,833 (SFr.6,259,000 / €4,393,192) to a Swiss private museum. Throughout the sale, the room was packed with buyers from all over the world, and an additional 250 bidders participated online via Christie's LIVE™. European bidders were fiercely challenged by international collectors, especially buyers from China. I was also pleased to see b competition for the very first example of the book 'Ultimate Rolex Daytona', scheduled to be released in the Fall, which sold SFr 43,750, with proceeds to benefit the Red Cross. HK" Although wishing to remain anonymous, the consignor of "A Connoisseur's Vision" Collection declared: "I cannot help but express all my gratitude to Christie's and their extraordinary Watch Team in Geneva for the amazing work they did to study every single piece of my collection and to make a wider group of international watch lovers aware of the importance and sophistication of Patek Philippe vintage watches. I started buying watches in the 1970s, at a time when these amazing objects appealed to very few collectors and even fewer scholars were exploring this charming field. In my opinion wristwatches are the most beautiful wearable item created in the 20th century and I am sure that pieces such as the unique Patek Philippe reference n.1527 will be on show at decorative arts museums, alongside the specialized institutions that currently buy them for their collections."

  • Wempe - Porsche Ice Force and AMG Winter Driving


    WORLDTEMPUS - 19 April 2010

    I decided to extend my annual trip to Geneva's S.I.H.H. in January and visit any car buff's Holy Grails: the Porsche and Mercedes Benz museums in Stuttgart as well as a personal tour through the AMG factory in Affalterbach. I was actually welcomed there with a proudly displayed American flag—now that's attention to detail. As if that wasn't enough, I ventured on to partake in the Mercedes AMG Winter Driving event in Arjeplog, Sweden, and a few weeks later the Porsche Ice Force in Ivalo, Finland.


    The experience was incredible: the Mercedes AMG E63, C63 and SLK55 and the Cayman S, 911 C2S, C4S, Turbo and Panamera 4S are all equipped with studded winter tires to gain traction on the giant frozen lakes' endless tracks. I basically drove sideways from 9:30 am until 5:00 pm for three days straight, only interrupted by coffee breaks and sumptuous lunches with 40 other car enthusiasts from all over the world.
    Being in the watch business, I thought it would also be a great opportunity to test a few of the world's best sports watches under these frigid conditions—so I left a Rolex Deepsea, an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, a Panerai Marina Diver, and our very own limited edition Wempe Zeitmeister ceramic chronograph outside overnight at -24°F. Needless to say, I slept a little uneasy having watches worth over $55,000 lying in the snow on my balcony unattended, but then again, nobody would have suspected these kinds of treasures there either.


    This was an experiment I wouldn't have dared to pull off in New York. All watches performed well, by the way, and even the rubber straps survived the night in the cold without becoming brittle. As for the driving experience, it was exhilarating and certainly has greatly increased my car control skills. We kept the Porsche Cayenne and Mercedes ML drivers busy as we overshot corners and turns just to find ourselves in two feet of snow.
    The beautiful thing was that you couldn't get hurt or damage the cars. I'm not quite ready to initiate the drift with the brake when I turn on Fifth Avenue into 55th Street in front of the Wempe store, but it sure is tempting.

  • Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date

    The quintessential divers' watch, the absolute reference in its genre, the Submariner has expanded its horizons far beyond the element of its birth in 1953, while denying nothing of its aquatic origins.
    At home in the depths of the oceans, a universe in which it remains the basic instrument of every diver, it long ago conquered terra firma, as the watch of action.
    Waterproof to 100, 200, then 300 metres as it successively evolved since its launch, the Submariner has always been the symbol of Rolex's supremacy in waterproofness.


    New features
    Timeless and impervious to the elements, it is today available in a steel version sporting new features. Its 40 mm case in 904L steel, synonymous with robustness, waterproofness and corrosion resistance, boasts a new rotatable bezel fitted with a practically scratchproof black Cerachrominsert — or green for themodel with the green dial — with platinum graduations.
    Penumbra and soft light
    As much in its element in the penumbra of the ocean floor as in the soft light of sophistication, this new Submariner Date offers exceptional legibility thanks to hour markers and hands coated with luminescent Chromalight. Its mechanical movement equipped with a Perpetual rotor and a Parachrom hairspring pledges increased chronometric precision and reliability. Its unidirectional rotatable graduated bezel allows the safe reading of dive time.


    A power of seduction that never goes out of style
    This new model is no stranger to comfort. The Rolex Glidelock clasp allows for fine adjustments of the bracelet length. On land as at sea, watch and wearer are bound by the emotional charge deriving from the Submariner's irresistible power of seduction.

    REFERENCE (CASE / BRACELET): 116610 LN / 97200
    Case
    Diameter: 40 mm
    Material: 904L steel
    Bezel: unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated
    with black Cerachrom insert, platinum graduations
    Winding crown: Triplock
    shoulders to protect the crown
    Crystal: sapphire, Cyclops lens with anti-reflective coating
    Waterproofness: 300 m (1,000 ft)
    Movement
    Calibre: 3135
    Self-winding: Perpetual rotor
    Date: instantaneous change and rapid setting
    Oscillator: frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour)
    Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil
    Precision: COSC-certified chronometer
    Power reserve: ~48 hours
    Dial
    Hour markers: luminescent Chromalight
    Hands: luminescent Chromalight
    Bracelet
    Material: 904L steel
    Type: Oyster
    Clasp: Rolex Glidelock

  • Antiquorum - The World's Most Complicated Timepiece

    Antiquorum's upcoming 35th anniversary sale on November 14th & 15th in Geneva is rapidly approaching and collectors can look forward to bidding on a wide variety of spectacular timepieces. Highlighting the auction is the world's most complicated and highly coveted timepiece - the famous Patek Philippe Calibre 89. In addition, there will be over 300 exceptional modern and vintage timepieces offered in the Antiquorum sale to be held at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva. Prior to the auction, clients can preview these outstanding watches in Shanghai, Hong Kong, and Geneva.
    Lot 364


    Antiquorum is delighted to offer the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 from the Matsuda Collection - the world's most complicated timepiece with a total of 33 complications - in our 35th anniversary sale on November 14th and 15th. As this extraordinary timepiece is rarely seen at auction, this is an exceptional opportunity for collectors to acquire one of the most important timepieces in existence. Only four unique models of the Calibre 89 were ever produced; one each in yellow, pink and white gold and one in platinum. The present Calibre 89 in yellow gold was previously sold by Antiquorum in our April 9, 1989 sale of "The Art of Patek Philippe" to commemorate the 150th anniversary of Patek Philippe; while the Calibre 89 in white gold was sold in our 30th anniversary sale on April 24th, 2004.
    Lot 361


    Moreover, for the Patek aficionado, there is a Patek Philippe "Officier Repetitions Minutes," Ref. 5029. This exceptional timepiece was made in a limited edition of 10 examples in 1998 to commemorate the inauguration of the new Patek Philippe manufactory in Geneva. Sold September 25th, 1998, it is a very fine and extremely rare, minute-repeating, self-winding, 18K yellow gold chronometer wristwatch.
    Lot 335


    Another incredible Patek Philippe timepiece being offered is the Patek Philippe Ref. 2497 with luminous black dial. Produced in 1955 and sold on June 8th, 1962, this outstanding timepiece is an extremely fine and equally rare, center-seconds, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar, and moon phases.
    Lot 362


    Additionally, a Patek Philippe "Minute Repeater", Ref. 3979 will be on the auction block. Made in 1998, it is a very fine and rare, minute repeating, self-winding, 18K yellow gold wristwatch.
    Lot 185


    Also included in the November sale is the Patek Philippe Ref. 3990. This exceptional and rare watch was produced circa 2000 and is now no longer in production. It is a very fine and important, astronomic, water-resistant, platinum and diamonds gentleman's wristwatch with round button chronograph, register, perpetual calendar, moon phases and sapphire crystal back.
    Lot 187


    In addition, there will also be a Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 with pulsometer scale offered in the upcoming sale. The exquisite watch was produced in 1953, and sold on March 7th, 1955. It is an extremely fine and very rare, water-resistant, 18K pink gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, 30-minute register and pulsometer scale graduated for 15 pulsations.
    Lot 358


    Furthermore, a Patek Philippe Ref. 1436 retailed by Tiffany will be amongst the highlights in the November sale. Made circa 1969, it is an extremely fine and rare, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with square button, co-axial split-seconds chronograph, 30-minute register and tachometer.
    Lot 352


    Also for the Patek Philippe enthusiast, there is the Patek Philippe Re. 2481 with tropics cloisonne dial. This remarkable timepiece was produced in 1954 and sold on October 2nd, 1956. It is an extremely fine and equally rare, center-seconds, 18K pink gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel "Tropics" dial.
    Lot 278


    Fans of Richard Mille will want to bid on the Richard Mille "Tourbillon RM0003". This superb timepiece is a two-time zone, 18K white gold wristwatch with visible one-minute tourbillon regulator.

    Lot 298


    Another rare and sought after timepiece included in the sale is the Audemars Piguet dress watch retailed by Gubelin. This superb timepiece is a 18k white gold and enamel watch with perpetual calendar, minute repeater and split second second chronograph.
    Lot 346


    An additional extraordinary watch with cloisonne dial offered is the Rolex Ref. 6100, "Galleon Cloissone Dial." Produced in 1952, it is an exceptionally rare and fine, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel galleon dial .
    Estimate:****


    Auction Previews:
    The timepieces of this auction will be on view as follows:
    • SHANGHAI
    November 3 & 4:
    10:30 a.m. - 6:30 p.m.
    Antiquorum Shanghai
    Room 4106B,
    Bund Centre Office Tower,
    222 Yan An Road East,
    Shanghai 200002, China
    Tel.+86 21 6335 1268
    • HONG KONG
    November 6 & 7:
    11:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
    Antiquorum Auctioneers (HK) Ltd.
    Suite 1405, 9 Queen's Rd. Central,
    Hong Kong, China
    Tel. + 852 2522 4168

    GENEVA
    November 12 to 15:
    10:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
    Antiquorum's Showroom
    2, rue du Mont-Blanc
    1201 Geneva, Switzerland
    Tel.+ 41 (0)22 909 28 50
    Auction:
    First Session: Saturday, November 14 (lots 1 - 187) begins at 3:00 p.m.
    Second Session: Sunday, November 15 (lots 188 - 364) begins 3:00 p.m.

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