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Replica Rolex Automatic Watches Latest Reviews

Rolex Datejust 31 Rolesor Fluted Jubilee Champagne Computer Diamonds (178273-0013)

Thanks Russ

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Review by Jeremy Meinema, From United States Rockville

Rolex Datejust Silver Dial Automatic Stainless Steel and 18kt Yellow Gold Ladies Watch 116243SSJ

I bought this Rolex watch as a present for my 22 year old son and he loved it! The watch is really beautiful. It has plenty of links in the band which are easily removed,but make the band adaptable for lots of wrist sizes.All in all, the watch is a great buy! We are very pleased.

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by brian cruver, From Bullock New York

Rolex Masterpiece Goldust Dream Mother Of Pearl Automatic 18kt White Gold Ladies Watch 81209GDDPM

I have always liked the look of a Seiko, and for the price, this was a great deal. The two tone bracelet is a good crossover betwen elegant and rugged.

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Abigail Early, From Tunisia Ariana

Watches News

Newsletter - How to name a watch

Telling the difference between a Carrera and a Daytona is easy, as is spotting an Aqua Terra from a Terra Luna. You don't even need the brand names to help you. But what about the new collections by Emile Chouriet and Ernest Borel, two Swiss brands with a presence in Hong Kong and China that is difficult to conceive unless you have been there and seen the giant billboards that dominate the skyline. The two new models presented today on WorldTempus both embody the ultra-classic style that appeals to the Chinese consumer, combined of course with an affordable Swiss Made calibre. They go to show that at a certain price point buyers are definitely making their choices based on looks rather than brand or collection names.

Inspired by a photo showing 18 Rolex Submariner "Comex" watches on the Internet, David Chokron offers some interesting insights into the notion of exclusivity in watchmaking. Can a one-thousand-piece limited edition (not to mention a 15,007-piece one) really be considered as exclusive?

Our build-up to the GPHG 2015 officially starts this week as Camille Gendre takes a look back over 14 years of Aiguille d'Or winners. Will she find a pattern that could give a hint about this year's winner? We will continue over the coming weeks with a look at the members of the 2015 jury and some interviews with previous winners.

Auctions - Interview with Edward Dolman

I was lucky enough to work with Aurel Bacs at Christie's and I recognize his particular position in the marketplace. He is an extraordinary expert and a trusted advisor to most of the top watch collectors in the world. So when I found out that he was thinking of setting up his own company I thought we should have a conversation. Because I want to build up an auction house at Phillips that builds on what we have already established and looks at specific areas of the market and attempts to be the best it possibly can.

I am determined to set the highest possible standards and Phillips has just opened a new sales room at Berkley Square in London which has had a similar sort of impact because it gives us a viewing capability that is unmatched by any of the traditional auction houses in London. It is spectacular and it gives an idea of our aspirations and the standards we are setting. We want to offer the best environment for people to sell and buy in.

We are currently developing a spectacular space in Geneva for our auctions and brokerage business, about which we will be making some announcements in the coming weeks. But we definitely feel that an important part of our business will be private brokerage and auctions. What we are hoping is to become the trusted brokerage at the top end of the watch business.

It will be important. We can offer the key watch collectors the best possible service and the best possible access to watches. The brokerage and private sale side of the business will allow us to develop this kind of relationship and give people opportunities that they might not otherwise get. It's a key part of our business plan.

Yes, over the next couple of years, possibly as soon as November in Hong Kong, we will roll out a series of auctions worldwide. The final auction plan will be Geneva, Hong Kong, New York and London.

We have set ourselves some aspirational goals. We want to lead the market in vintage watches but at the high end. We are not about volume and we will be dealing with relatively low volumes but high values. Who knows how we will stack up against our competitors? They may decide to go into a much higher volume, low value business. Actually, you can see that already and we think this is the wrong way to go and we are going in the opposite direction and I think it is the right strategy for us.

I believe generally for Phillips that we need to give clients more choice and I think we will make a big impact.

I am always amazed at how low some of the estimates are and how well they compare with retail. If you look at some of the watches in the Rolex Day-Date sale they are below today's retail price, so to someone thinking about buying a watch this is an interesting alternative to buying from a jewellers. The watch may well maintain its value better than a new watch.

I have a small collection but coincidentally one of the watches I don't have is a Rolex Day-Date, so this is the perfect opportunity for me and there are a number in the sale that I like. Aurel always manages to get a bid out of me somehow.

No, we are allowed to bid but the way we do it is governed in a special way. We have to leave bids in writing before the sale.

Vintage watches - The traps to avoid

The vintage watch market has been experiencing a boom over the past few years. With a multiplication in the number of distribution channels for vintage watches, which can now be purchased at auctions, from specialist dealers or on the Internet, the number of scams has increased proportionately. "The vintage watch business is a jungle, especially on the Internet," says Laurent Ponti, a watch dealer who has been established in Geneva for 13 years. It's a jungle from which you can nevertheless emerge unscathed, with a nice watch on your wrist, on one condition: you respect a few basic principles.

Pleasure above all

There is no point trying to make a good investment regardless. Any respectable dealer will advise you to buy something that you like. "We can never guarantee that a watch that a customer buys will increase in value," Laurent Ponti stresses. Taking the time to determine your own needs and desires is also important, according to Vanessa Chicha, co-founder with her husband Fabien of Iconeek, a website with a showroom in Geneva that specialises in second-hand, vintage and modern watches. "Buying a watch just for the sake of it is pointless. There needs to be an impulse, even if it has to be thought out." Aside from legendary collectors' models such as the Rolex Daytona, the Omega Speedmaster, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso or any Patek Philippe, it is not always easy to navigate your way around a mind-boggling selection of vintage watches. Getting advice from someone in the business, or an expert, is therefore undoubtedly a good idea. "A bit of surfing on the Internet may help you to narrow things down," says Vanessa Chicha, pointing out at the same time that you need to be careful not to be duped by the goods on offer.

The dangers of buying on the Internet
"Before buying a watch, people often say that you need to buy the dealer. In other words, know who you are dealing with." Laurent Ponti advises us to make sure we are well informed about the seller. If he has a storefront, his reputation will often precede him. If it is an online sale, you must be doubly cautious and above all take the time to communicate in detail with the seller. Another misconception that you are bly advised to forget about: that of doing the deal of the century. "There are no good deals on the Internet," Laurent Ponti assures us. In other words, beware of prices that are too tempting to be true. "There are many scams."

Be extra-careful with details

Whether you are buying from a shop or on the Internet, if the seller appears to be a trustworthy person you still need to pay attention to some important elements. Ideally, the watch should come with its original paperwork. This is generally the case for younger watches. For older watches, for which paperwork may have disappeared, we bly recommend that you ask for a valuation. And it is essential to get an invoice from the seller. If the watch is offered for sale by a professional dealer, he will usually check the serial number beforehand. His good relationship with the brands will also allow him to authenticate certain models. But be careful with some details: "Very often dials have been cleaned up," notes Vanessa Chicha. Just changing a single hand could change the watch's value completely. Although collectors may not fall into such traps, the humble watch lover who is drawn in by an attractive price - between 10% and 50% below the cost of a new watch - could very easily have his fingers burned. Keep an eye on the market, take your time and get help… This is the best way to avoid being conned.

Ball Watch Co. - Interview with Daniel Alioth

WordTempus: What sets Ball watches apart from the competition?

Daniel Alioth: Ball Watch has always been linked to the history of railways and the establishment of railroad standard time but nowadays we communicate around the kind of exploration that was first made possible by the railways connecting the world.
If you take a piece such as the one Olivier Muller tested on his trip, you can see that it is extremely robust, shock-resistant and has very masculine qualities. We are not afraid of saying that we have a collection that is 95 per cent masculine.
Unlike many brands who work exclusively on developing the movement, we work on both the interior and the exterior, aiming to improve precision by eliminating the impact of factors that can affect it, such as shocks and magnetism. We have a reputation for working a lot on cases. If we consider the two major new launches this year, the Slide Chronograph and the Magneto S, both have patented improvements to the case.

Tell us more about the new Magneto S…
With the Magneto we worked on the anti-magnetic properties of the case. We did not want to enter the titanic battle in which Omega and Rolex are already engaged and we felt that the customer is already a little lost when we start to talk about resistance to magnetic fields (or even sometimes about water resistance). We like to remain down to earth and honest.
The concept of an anti-magnetic watch is not something new. The Rolex Milgauss has been around for a decade, I think. What we wanted to do was introduce a more playful element to it. The idea behind the Magneto S was for the customer to understand the concept of anti-magnetism by playing with the watch.

What are the important markets for Ball Watch Co.?
Asia is by far our biggest market, with the USA in second place. But we have done things a little differently. A lot of brands started with their Swiss Made philosophy and initially targeted Europe, then expanded to Asia and the USA. We are an American brand but with a philosophy that remains very Swiss. So the idea was to redevelop the brand in the USA and take a bet on Asia long before other brands.
We have been present in Asia since the early 2000s so for us it is an established market. It may sound surprising, but our investment to develop the brand is now being made in Europe, Russia and the Middle East.

And what about the local market in Mexico?
As you may have seen the level of watchmaking knowledge here is very high. But there is also an important aspect related to notoriety. Customers have a high purchasing power and not only do they want something different, they often want something that meets their needs for a mechanical watch but is perhaps not as well known. I had a customer here who purchased a watch from me because it was less well-known than some of the bigger brands and he was worried that if he wore one of the more recognizable brands he would be exposing himself to robbers.

What can we expect from Ball Watch Co. over the next twelve months?
This year we worked on anti-shock and anti-magnetism. I think next year we will continue along these lines but perhaps adding other functions. We will also work on reducing the size of some of our robust watches and adding the Magneto function to a chronograph, for example.

Collectors' watches - Phillips creates a Watch Department

The Phillips Watch Department, based in Geneva, will partner with the firm of Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo. Bacs & Russo, specialising in Fine Collectors Watches, has been established in response to the ever-increasing need for collectors around the world to easily access scholarship, guidance and quality across the board.

The department brings together many prominent figures from the watch industry, including Nathalie Monbaron in Geneva, who will be supported by Virginie Liatard. Paul Boutros has been appointed as strategy consultant and will be Phillips' main representative in New York office.

Phillips will roll out its international Watch auction calendar with two inaugural evening sales taking place in Geneva in May 2015. The first will be a high profile various owners evening sale dedicated to the finest collectors' pieces, spanning two centuries of watchmaking of unique quality, rarity and condition. The accompanying sale will be dedicated to one of the world's most famous wristwatches: the Rolex Day-Date. Phillips will partner with Pucci Papaleo, one of the most eminent scholars in the world of Rolex collector's watches. The inaugural watch auctions will take place in Geneva on Saturday, 9 May at 7PM and Sunday, 10 May at 7PM.

In the following seasons, the department plans to expand its sales calendar around the world, organising sales in flagship premises in London, New York and soon in Hong Kong.

Integral to the department will be a brokerage, based in Geneva, specialising in the highest level of private sales, assisting collectors around the globe outside of the auction season.

Under the guidance of Aurel Bacs, the Phillips Watch Department aims to lead the market thanks to its team of specialists' second-to-none outreach within the collecting community and its uncompromising approach to quality.

On behalf of Bacs & Russo, Aurel Bacs says: "We are immensely excited to be asked to partner with Phillips as their consultants and to work with a department built from scratch. It is a privilege and a dream come true to realize a concept that Livia and I believe should be the answer to today's ever increasing market, composed of savvy and passionate collectors. It is a pleasure to be united with many distinguished specialists from the industry that Phillips has brought together for this new department."

Edward Dolman, Chairman and CEO of Phillips says: "I am delighted to be working once again with Aurel Bacs who has established himself as the market leading expert in this field over the last decade".

From Zenith to Rolex - The giant leap of Jean-Frederic Dufour

Undoubtedly besieged by newsdesks from all over the world, the green giant with the crown thus decided to react with these two sentences sent to the media: "Rolex confirms the arrival of Jean-Frederic Dufour, current CEO of Zenith, to ROLEX SA to take over the direction at a date still to be determined, and in agreement with the company's standing CEO, Gian Riccardo Marini. All other communication will be released in due course."

This is a big surprise in industry circles, since nobody expected Jean-Frederic Dufour to leave Zenith in the middle of its resurgence, nor Rolex to change managing director again so soon. Under the influence of the man from Geneva, Zenith had once again started to experience b growth. One of the symbols of this new direction was Zenith's sponsorship in 2012 of the fastest man in the world, Felix Baumgartner, the famous adventurer who broke the speed of sound in freefall from a capsule on the edge of space at an altitude of 39,000 metres.

After the stars of Zenith, the loyal captain of Jean-Claude Biver (the boss of LVMH's watchmaking activities) now sets sail for the crown of Rolex. A yachtsman in his free time, he will undoubtedly be looking forward to attending a few stops on the Rolex circuit, since this brand is one of the most heavily involved in sailing with events on all oceans from January through to December.

In what is either a coincidence in career paths or a genuine acknowledgement of the "Chopard school", Jean-Frederic Dufour will be bumping into his former colleague from Chopard, Philippe Peverelli, once again in the corridors, since he heads up Tudor, the other brand in the Rolex group. From Le Locle to Geneva is a small step for a commuter but from Zenith to Rolex is a giant leap for its boss.

Eterna - The essential KonTiki Date

Having a passion for a job is wonderful but it can make us lose touch with… reality. Exactly: we in the watch media are spoiled by constantly reporting on extraordinary creations and stratospheric masterpieces that can be worth the same as a penthouse in a major European city or a luxury yacht; sometimes we get to test many of them, but we can seldom afford most of those dream watches. In my case, I'm frequently pulled back to Earth by friends wanting me to write about "regular watches for ordinary people" or asking me for advice regarding the purchase of a good mechanical timepiece with a price tag between 1,000 and 2,000 euros - and even though there are several brands capable of providing a nice product in that range, there aren't many affordable ones exuding icon status and capable of capturing your imagination. I would say the Eterna KonTiki Automatic Date is one of them.

I must confess to being emotionally attached to Eterna's KonTiki line since I acknowledged it existed, because in my youth I read Thor Heyerdahl's book on his 1947 saga across the Pacific on a primitive balsa raft (christened KonTiki, 'God of Sun') just to prove an anthropological point of view. During that journey, the Norwegian ethnographer and his five-man crew chose to wear Eterna watches on their wrists, specifically commissioned to endure the sternest tests. In 1958, Eterna adopted the KonTiki name for its most rugged line of timepieces as a homage to the 101-day oceanic odyssey; since then, there have been many Eterna models (and many cocktail bars around the world!) bearing the KonTiki label - including some more attractive than others, a few remarkable ones and a couple of forgettable versions. The Eterna KonTiki Automatic Date, first launched in 2008, is definitely one that stands out for both its price point (around 1,600 Euro on a steel bracelet) and its looks, which are reminiscent of the 1958 original.

Compared to the first KonTiki, the KonTiki Automatic Date is naturally bigger - with a 42-millimeter case that sits rather well even on midsize wrists. It emulates many elements of style of the 1950s and can be compared to another timepiece that I consider to be the essential Rolex: the Explorer, whose origins are contemporary to the Eterna KonTiki and tied to another famous explorer. Legend says Sir Edmund Hillary and sherpa Tenzing Norgay were the first men on top of Everest in 1953 and specifically prepared Rolexes were part of the expedition, inspiring the 1957 model christened Explorer that was last updated in 2010 with a 39mm version (ref. 214270). It also features a black dial that gives prominence to a luminous triangle (at 12 0'clock), whereas the typical Eterna KonTiki boasts four (at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock).

I bring the Rolex Explorer into comparison not only because of certain similarities in style and origin, but also because of the price. Not to mention the famous quotes associated with their famous owners: it is said that Sir Edmund Hillary, when questioned why he escalated the Everest, answered "because it is there", whereas Thor Heyerdahl once stated "Borders I have never seen one. But I have heard they exist in the minds of some people". And also because I happen to know the Explorer and the KonTiki Date quite well, having taken both to an iPhonographic photo session at the picturesque Cresmina Beach near Cascais, in the outskirts of Lisbon. Of course, the Explorer exudes Rolex's overall quality and the remarkable in-house automatic caliber 3132 - but, at round 5,500 Euro, it costs over three times more than the Eterna KonTiki Date. Granted, 1,600 euros can still be a big sum for a lot of people in a crisis-ridden Europe, but it sounds about right for a quality product from an historic Swiss brand - a start-up watch for those moving on to mechanical watches, a 'beater' for aficionados who have more expensive timepieces but wish to have a sturdier one to knock around.

I love the steel case of the KonTiki Date and how it combines with the metal bracelet. The size is perfect, whereas I would like the Explorer to be a tad bigger (a mere 1mm would do!). The finishing is quite fine, with polished touches contrasting with the dominant brushed surface. The dial center bears an engraved outline of Raroia (the Polynesian atoll where the KonTiki arrived after the epic 4,300 nautical-mile journey), surrounded by the emblematic luminous triangles under the four numbered hours and strips of luminous compound. Like in every KonTiki timepiece, the case back is identified by an engraved medallion of the iconic raft. The movement is an automatic Sellita SW200, inspired by an ETA caliber (and Eterna had historic ties to ETA in the past, having perfected the ball bearing system for the rotors in 1948).

Right now, the regular KonTiki collection includes the 42mm KonTiki Date available in several dial colors and also on rubber and leather straps besides the metal bracelet; the 40mm KonTiki Four-Hands, with an analogical flange calendar framing a centerpiece inscribed with ancient runic characters; the 44mm KonTiki Four-Hands XXL that also carries a pointer-type date display; the 42mm Chronograph, an exercise in style on how to use the emblematic triangular areas on the dial in spite of the counters; and the fabulous Heritage Super KonTiki 1973, a faithful reedition of a Seventies model adopted by the Israeli secret services.

But stay tuned! In a couple of days, Eterna will introduce new KonTiki versions at Baselworld, further affirming its ties with one of the most significant anthropological expeditions of modern times. The Grenchen-based brand will also confirm the launch of the Royal Kon-Tiki Two Time Zones, unveiled last year and equipped with the first of 88 possible variants of the new in-house Caliber 39. Thor Heyerdahl's legacy continues to inspire Eterna. And myself.

Richard Mille - The Jack Nicholson of horology

Richard Mille calls his watches "a racing machine on the wrist". A tagline undoubtedly inspired not only by his personal interest in fast cars (Mille often races his own 1970 Lola), but also by his interest in exotic materials generally used in contexts such as the F1 industry. Your correspondent would now like to offer an extension to that tagline: "A racing machine on the wrist that makes otherwise reasonable people stop and gawk, want to make friends with you or upgrade your hotel room".

Borrowed feathers
I left the SIHH 2014 with an impressive titanium RM11-01 Roberto Mancini on my wrist, along with a pair of "mechanical" cufflinks, also in titanium. They were obviously not mine to keep, as I do not have Euro 114,500 in my timepiece account, nor the Euro 12,500 needed for the cufflinks (in fact I don't have a cufflinks account at all). Instead I wore the RM11-01 as borrowed feathers - but what borrowed feathers they turned out to be!

Once I got back home I started Instagram'ing this impressive watch and my Facebook account also featured many daily shots of the watch "in action". The response from social media circles was overwhelming. Strangers PM'd me asking if they could pop by my office just to see the watch, and I have a b suspicion that people showed up to my lectures just to get up-close-and-personal with the Richard Mille on my wrist.

The RM11-01 is a thing to behold. The distinct curvex and industrial looking case has been a trademark design of Richard Mille since the first model, RM001, was introduced in 2001. This particular model on my wrist, the Felipe Massa RM11, has been a success ever since it was originally launched in 2007 and can rightfully be considered the most popular of the contemporary range.

Do not however expect any extra attention if wearing the RM11-01 when horseback riding in outer Mongolia, or spelunking in Bulgaria. Richard Mille is not a carpet bomber; his distribution is very focused on key urban markets.

This of course is quite understandable as Richard Mille only produces 3,000 watches a year, and with an entry level of euro 43,000 (for the titanium RM07) to 1.4 million (for the elusive RM05601 with a sapphire case), it is a watch brand for the 1%. Unless of course you live in Dubai, where a Richard Mille is the horological equivalent of the soup of the day on the wrist of the Arab businessmen in their crisp, white disdasha. In these parts of the world a steel Rolex DateJust gets as much attention as last year's second runner-up of Dubai Has Talent. The glitterati of the Emirates get a diamond-crusted Rolex as their first timepiece, and have probably collected a complete set of Patek Philippe Nautilus models by the time their voice breaks.

The Nicholson of horology
A Richard Mille watch is for the guys (and gals) who have been around and who have tried and collected most high-end watch brands already. Their collections are already full of tourbillons, minute repeaters, probably including quite a few made by independent watchmakers, such as Christophe Claret, F. P. Journe and Kari Voutilainen.

Richard Mille may belong to the same crowd of young and indie watch brands, but he stands out. I see him as the Jack Nicholson of contemporary horology due to his laid-back personality and irresistible joie de vivre. His watches more powerfully represent sex, rock n' roll, fast cars and an exuberant lifestyle than anybody else.

Funnily enough the functions of Richard Mille watches are actually met with less interest than those of the competitors in the same price range, even though several of them offer fascinating functions such as a declutchable rotor, torque indicator and G-Force sensor, as well as a E6-B flight computer.

Nobody actually asked me about the functions of the RM11-01. A few asked about the choice of colors and nodded knowingly when I told them the model was named after a famous (former) Manchester City manager who is now managing Turkish Super Lig club Galatasaray. I got the distinct impression the watch could have been right only twice a day, and nobody would have noticed: it's the name on the dial and the lifestyle buzz that gets the pulse up.

But let´s sober up for a moment, ignore the sex appeal, and look at what this watch actually does.

The specs of the RM11-01
The automatic caliber RMAC1 inside the titanium case of the RM11-1 Roberto Mancini offers the standard functions of this model, such as flyback chronograph and annual calendar. Additionally, and in order to meet Mancini's demands, this model also offers a dial design that makes it possible to display football match time based on a two times 45-minute match while taking account of the 15-minute stoppage time.

During each half, a single press on the push-piece at "4" activates the flyback function, zero-setting the chronograph seconds hand which is thus ready to start timing the second half of the match. If extra time is awarded, the watch displays an additional 15 minutes and up to 5 minutes of stoppage time.

Functions and football reference aside, the RM11-01 procured me a somewhat unexpected pleasure while wearing it. I had strangers compliment my watch, floor managers expecting me to throw down a black Amex card to buy half the stock and hotel staff giving me extra attention when I was checking in (not when checking out as I turned out to not splash money everywhere I went). In conclusion, owning a watch from Richard Mille collection is what it feels like to park a slick luxury car outside a crowded cafe and step into it with a leggy blonde holding your hand: all eyes on you. And that thing on your arm.

Richard Mille - SIHH 2014: Tim Malachard, Marketing Director at Richard Mille

You are launching an RM 50-01 in partnership with the Lotus F1 Team and Romain Grosjean. What does this partnership involve?
We have a contract with the Lotus Formula 1 team and with its drivers. We are introducing a watch bearing its name and that of Romain Grosjean at this SIHH, equipped with a G-Force Meter and featuring the new material we are presenting, NTPT. This carbon-based technology stems from the production of sails for racing yachts.

It is still possible to enjoy clear visibility in the world of F1 alongside the all-pervasive presence of Rolex in this sport?
Yes, because our association is with the drivers, to develop products with them - just as we did for Felipe Massa. At that time, his team was partnering another brand, which didn't stop us working together. We are interested in the sportsmen themselves and we have indeed just launched a partnership with Alexis Pinturault, one of the most promising young French skiers, who just won the slalom ski race at Wengen last Sunday.

And what about the partnership with Natalie Portman?
The partnership agreement was signed in 2012, but it took two years to create the watch bearing her name, the RM 19-01. It represents one of her favourite symbols, the spider. We like it when our partners share their emotions with us and tell us what they like.

So 2014 is a year dedicated to women at Richard Mille ?
It's doubtless going to be a big year for women internationally, so we are taking the opportunity to launch several new watches in our ladies' collections. The latter account for 20% of our production, but we think that figure could in time reach 30 to 35%. With our new materials, such as white or chestnut brown ceramics, and our bracelet on the RM 07-01 model, we certainly have some features that are liable to appeal to women.

What's so special about this bracelet?
For the time being, it's intended for ladies, and it meets all Richard Mille criteria - meaning it is complex, extremely well finished and perfectly integrated with our cases and their distinctively curved shapes. Richard Mille has always been very sensitive to wearer comfort.

For the first time, visitors to your booth are forbidden to take pictures. Why is that?
We have always been open to this principle. A lot of people like to take snaps of absolutely everything. Even with a smartphone, you can get impressive results. But some of them are used to feed the fake-watch market and so we want to protect the brand and our clients.

Could you give us a few current business figures?
This year, we will produce about 3,400 watches, compared with less than 3,000 in 2013. Our turnover for 2013 was 123 million Swiss francs and we are aiming for 150 million in 2014. Our average price increases year on year and is now over the 110,000 € mark. We sell what we produce and our order book is full.

What's the geographical spread of your activity?
China represents less than 3% of our turnover, and we want to develop it - that is indeed our goal this year. The rest is pretty well balanced, just as Mr Richard Mille himself has always wished it to be: 40% in Asia, 30% in Europe and about the same in America. We are going to open another 8 to 10 boutiques, including in London, Jeddah, Beijing and Shanghai, after opening several last year in locations such as Las Vegas and Macao.

Collecting - Vintage Value Equation (1)

WORLDTEMPUS - 2 August 2012

Every vintage watch is different. Accordingly, a collector determining the value of each vintage wristwatch comes down to putting values into an equation. And, ultimately, each watch has its own value equation. Knowing how to quantify and calculate the variables in the equation is equal parts experience, education, astuteness, and power of observation. While there is no substitute for experience, there are resources that can speed up the learning curve: an expansive collector's library, bookmarking the best websites, and - frankly - buying and selling as many wristwatches as you can responsibly afford.
As I explained to my wife many years ago (I don't think she believed me, but it's true), "Every time I buy and own a watch, I learn about the watch and learn from the transaction." Don't underestimate the learning also garnered when a watch is sold. You quickly learn which brands and models are the best to collect (which also equates to investing in), and which watches are better left to looking at pictures of.

The first order of magnitude, in establishing the value of a vintage watch is authenticity. While a counterfeit watch has value in the sense that it may (or may not) keep time and may look nice, we are talking pennies on the dollar (and sometimes much less) in terms of comparing the value of a counterfeit watch to its authentic counterpart. Our starting presumption and the first step in the evaluation of any wristwatch must be: is this watch authentic?

For the beginning collector, this is easier said than done. If you are going to be buying most of your watches from an established watch dealer, you can piggy-back on his or her experience and trust that you are purchasing authentic watches. Any dealer worth doing business with will guarantee the authenticity of any and all watches and will put that pledge in writing and offer a lifetime money-back guarantee should a watch turn out to be less than 100 percent authentic. Buying from established dealers allows you to safely spend your money and learn from each watch that you buy. Obviously, the dealer works on a profit, and buying from him or her may mean you are paying more than if you venture out into the wild by yourself. However, in my opinion, the extra layers of protection are worth the premium.
This is where spending big on a watch library before you start spending big on watches will really pay off. There are numerous watch books available, all of which are illustrated with pictures. From coffee table books, magazines and watch annuals to auction catalogs and collector's value guides, each and every book will advance your education. Many of the Italian collector's books are excellent (and expensive, but worth every penny). There are Japanese books and magazines usually focused on Rolex watches that feature amazingly in-depth picture series on the various models and their iterations over time. The Antiquorum auction house offers many, also available on Amazon and eBay. Unfortunately, many of the best books are now out of print. However, my advice is to spend liberally on books. Even after you are an experienced collector, you will find yourself referring again and again to your library. I know I do, every day.

Democratization of information is the essence of the Internet. There is no limit to the amount of learning one can achieve online. Antiquorum's online database of auction results is an educational goldmine. You can study the pictures of watches - each picture can be clicked on to open up a high definition image - and find out both what the experts on staff predicted the value of each watch would be at auction and what the watch actually sold for. Studying these results over time, one can learn which models do best in terms of value and which characteristics most closely correlate with a watch's value. Timezone is a great resource to spend days immersed in learning and DoubleRedSeaDweller is a magnificent website for Rolex Submariners and SeaDwellers. You should explore all that the Internet has to offer in terms of watch knowledge.
However, there is simply no substitute for experience. You should strive to see as many watches as possible "in the metal." Holding watches in your hands, studying them under a loupe, feeling their weight, winding them, playing with their crowns and chronograph buttons, putting them on your wrist, and noticing every last detail is the surest way to know immediately if a watch is authentic and if it is not.

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Rolex - Rolex Awards for Enterprise

Revue FH - 5 July 2012

The 2012 Rolex Awards for Enterprise aroused keen interest. Indeed around 3,500 names were put forward - more than double that of recent editions - originating from 154 different countries (126 at the last edition). The average age of participants was down from 46 to 41. The percentage of women meanwhile rose from 23 to 28%, a record high.
Members of the interdisciplinary jury, which included renowned scientists, explorers, environmental campaigners, doctors, educationalists and entrepreneurs, made their selection as follows:
Sergei Bereznuk (51), Russia

The Russian Far East is home to 95 per cent of the remaining population of the Amur, the biggest of the world's tigers (also known as the Siberian tiger), which weighs on average 200 kg. Today, an estimated 350 to 500 of this subspecies (Panthera tigris altaica) roam the frontier region bordering China and the Sea of Japan. Although sustained conservation efforts over recent years have moved the Amur tigers from «critically endangered» to «endangered» on the International Union for Conservation of Nature's Red List, they still remain at risk - mainly due to poaching.
For the past 17 years, Sergei Bereznuk, a staunch Russian conservationist and ecologist, has been working valiantly to save the Amur tiger. Based on his experience since 1995 with a tiger anti-poaching brigade in the Primorsky Krai, the Russian Far East province commonly known as Primorye, Bereznuk is convinced that saving the Amur tiger depends on both the efficiency of anti-poaching measures and the education of the local people, two elements at the core of his Rolex Awardwinning project. Moreover, he considers the Amur tiger as a powerful driver for the general conservation of its ecosystem, the taiga forest.

As director of the Phoenix Fund, a small, environmental NGO that he has headed for 12 years, Bereznuk and his team of six people are carrying out an impressive range of activities to preserve the Amur tiger over a territory of 166,000 km2. These include support of anti-poaching units, awareness-raising among local people, reversing habitat reduction due to fires and logging and resolution of humananimal conflicts, along with providing compensation for damage and monitoring invasive industrial projects in the region.
Barbara Block (54), United States

Large marine predators such as sharks and tunas are essential to maintaining the delicate balance of our ocean ecosystems, but overfishing, habitat destruction and pollution have caused reductions of populations worldwide. Measures advocated by scientists to reverse this decline include the creation of large marine protected areas in the open ocean that preserve feeding and breeding grounds. A major challenge has been to identify the best locations for these sanctuaries, since these species are highly migratory and difficult to follow.
Barbara Block, a professor of marine biology, has developed innovative electronic tagging techniques that enable following fish beneath the sea. In the late 1990s, she helped develop the first pop-up satellite archival tag, a device that detaches itself from the fish on a pre-programmed date and floats to the surface of the sea where it transmits archived data via satellite.
Block's aim is to build the technology that will enable monitoring of these ocean hotspots and to engage the public on the plight of marine predators that roam along the west coast of North America - a crucial prelude to their conservation.
Her team conducts «conservation oceanography» incorporating the latest advances in sensor technology, ocean observing systems and computational methods to provide resource managers and policy-makers with data on the sustainability of both exploited and protected marine predators.
Erika Cuellard (40), Bolivia

The largest of Bolivia's national parks, the Kaa-Iya del Gran Chaco, boasts the unlikely combination of South America's hottest, driest weather and 70 species of large mammals, including jaguars, pumas and giant armadillos, living in the largest protected tropical dry forest in the world. This harsh and inhospitable environment has been the workplace of Erika Cuellar for more than a decade. The scientist has spearheaded participatory conservation with the indigenous Guaraní people who live on the boundaries of the park. She has worked towards improving grassland management and local capacity building by training local people to take ownership of the conservation of their habitat.
Encouraged by her successes in the national park, Cuellar's sights are now set on the wider Gran Chaco region, which spans parts of Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. The Gran Chaco counts a variety of indigenous tribes, nomadic hunters, gatherers, fishing communities, farmers and cattle ranchers as its human inhabitants. The forests and scrublands are also home to 3,400 plant species, 500 bird and 150 mammal species, many of which are unique to the region.
But for more than a century, the Gran Chaco's natural wealth has been systematically eroded. A notable casualty of these man-made factors has been the guanaco, the wild ancestor of domesticated llamas. In 2007, to help protect this species and its habitat, Cuellar devised a course to train members of three ethnic groups native to the Gran Chaco (Guaraní, Ayoreode and Chiquitano) as parabiologists. As native inhabitants, parabiologists are also an influential means of conveying the value of conservation to indigenous communities. Cuellar now wants to extend her approach in Argentina and Paraguay and formalize the model to make conservation a viable long-term local employment option.
Mark Kendall (40), Australia

Mark Kendall is developing an inexpensive and highly efficient way to reduce the annual death toll of millions of people worldwide from infectious diseases. Many of these fatalities can be prevented by vaccines, but the traditional syringe-and needle method - invented in 1853 - is holding vaccines back. First, this method injects vaccine into muscle, which has few immune cells, missing our immune «sweet spot». It is expensive and presents numerous difficulties - with vaccines requiring refrigeration in many countries where electricity supplies are uncertain.
With the «Nanopatch» that Professor Kendall is developing at a cutting-edge bio-engineering research institute at the University of Queensland, in Australia, a host of problems linked to the traditional needle and syringe will be swept away. The syringe-free method developed by Kendall uses an applicator which propels the Nanopatch and its microprojections - painlessly - onto a superficial layer of the skin where target immune cells are most numerous. The process does not draw blood, so the risk of infection is greatly reduced.
The Nanopatch is coated with dry vaccine, so no refrigeration is required. This, together with lower vaccine doses, drastically reduces all costs, including transport. In the long term, Nanopatches could probably be administered by community workers or teachers, thus avoiding the need for medical staff to be present.
Aggrey Otieno (34), Kenya

Korogocho, Nairobi's fourth-largest slum, is home to an estimated 200,000 people in an area of only 1.5 km2, which is troubled by widespread insecurity, substandard sanitation and deep poverty. An estimated 300 women experience postpartum haemorrhage and 200 newborn babies die there every year due to the lack of obstetric medical facilities and a means of getting to hospital, as well as the fact that the local birth attendants need assistance during emergencies. In Korogocho, the maternal mortality ratio is roughly 700 women out of 100,000, compared with 13 out of 100,000 in the United States.
After studying in the United States, Aggrey Otieno returned to the slum, his birthplace, to improve the health of his community by empowering its people. With his knowledge of the area, Otieno, who has gained a well-deserved reputation as a valiant champion of the poor and vulnerable residents of Korogocho, is well placed to drive forward his project to build a telemedicine centre with a 24- hour, on-call doctor and van, thereby helping to prevent many deaths.
Under the auspices of the non-profit organization Pambazuko Mashinani - of which he is founder and executive director - Otieno will use his Rolex Award funds to train birth attendants to recognize when complications are occurring so that they can alert staff at the centre by text message when an emergency arises. These qualified workers and doctors will give instant medical advice and, if needed, dispatch a van to transport the woman to hospital.

Richard Mille - The Art of Time

WORLDTEMPUS - 22 June 2012

"We're building our own case making facility," general manager Yves Mathys explains as we ask about the big cranes visible from the windows of Horometrie SA in the small Swiss village of Les Breuleux. This is the home of Richard Mille and the place where most of his extraordinary watches are assembled. Others are assembled down the road at Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi in Le Locle, and until recently many of Richard Mille's watch cases were made just across the street at case maker Donze-Baume.
When Richemont took over Donze-Baume in 2008, Richard Mille was given a five-year grace period to find a new case maker. In the end, the little company decided to build its own case making factory, which will open the end of 2012, just a stone's throw from the present location. However, the knowhow required for the incredible RM 056 Felipe Massa Sapphire Tourbillon Split-Seconds Competition Chronograph introduced earlier this year at the S.I.H.H. in Geneva was something extraordinary. It, however, was made by a different supplier - and not actually a case maker.

Luxurious sapphires
The cases of the RM 056 are made by sapphire crystal manufacturing company Stettler Sapphire AG in Lyss. "We produce 80 percent of all sapphire crystals in the luxury watch business," head of sales and marketing Hans Studer explains when we pay the company a visit to get an intimate look at the process of making the transparent case of the RM 056. "Basically, we are the main supplier for watch companies producing watches costing 2,000 Swiss francs and more," he says while showing trays full of sapphire glasses made for brands such as MB&F (Maximilian Busser & Friends), Rado, Patek Philippe, and Rolex.

Record-breaking sapphires
Stettler made the 14.3-millimeter thick crystal fitted on the Rolex DeepSea Challenge that is water resistant to 12,000 meters. "We made a total of five crystals for the Sea-Dweller DeepSea Challenge model," Studer says, though he declined to reveal whether Rolex actually also produced five watches for the record-breaking dive of 10,898 meters made by film producer James Cameron in March 2012.
Even if Stettler is used to tough assignments, the case of Richard Mille's RM 056 was something else. "For Stettler it was an incredible experience to develop this sapphire case," Studer continues. "Each of the three parts made of Kyropoulos sapphire takes weeks of finishing and we have a CNC machine dedicated only to the production of the RM 056 cases," he says showing the brand-new cutting machine that runs 24 hours a day in order to meet the demand of the five people who ordered the RM 056 during the fair in January. "The case back alone takes five weeks to finish, which means it will take a whole year to finish all five cases," Studer says matter-of-factly.

Mutual invest
Leaving the Stettler premises, I can't help thinking that one could have the impression that Richard Mille and his suppliers "R&D" each other, pushing the boundaries for modern watchmaking in an otherwise rather conservative business. The innovative and unconventional mind of Mille demands a lot from his suppliers and without their skills, machinery and ? last but hardly least ? flexibility, many of Mille's timepieces would never have made it onto the wrists of their owners today.
Art of time
After the visit to the Richard Mille boutique in Geneva, Horometrie and Stettler, it also occurs to me that in fact the ultra-light RM 027 adorning tennis player Rafael Nadal's winning wrist and its white counterpart, the RM 038 that sits on golfer Bubba Watson's wrist, are much more than just innovative timepieces. They are ticking pieces of art and would fit in just as well at Art Basel as they do at S.I.H.H. in Geneva.

When you acknowledge this fact and consider Mille's watches as art you don't just buy one of his watches. You invest into his artistic and creative mind, just like you invest in a Warhol, Prince or other contemporary art that pleases not only the eyes, but also seem to justify the exuberant prices asked. And as an added bonus, Mille's watches show the time too.

Les Ambassadeurs - New Branch Manager for Zurich Boutique

Representing a fine selection of the most prestigious watch and jewelry brands, the boutique located at Bahnhofstrasse 64 has been expertly managed for the last two years by Alberto Soria.

Taking leave of Les Ambassadeurs to realize personal projects, Soria vacated the post, which has aroused quite a bit of interest in the industry. Les Ambassadeurs decided to place its confidence in Forster to carry the torch.

Forster's career path, which began by learning the trade of watchmaker, is rich in experience. Having worked with famous brands such as Rolex and Audemars Piguet, trips and jobs abroad - notably in Singapore, China, Australia and the Caribbean - combine with his proximity to a successful clientele, with which he shares a sensibility to and passion for beautiful objects.
After more than one month spent in the company and benefitting from Soria's support during this transitional period, Forster now takes charge of his brands. Today, he is eager for just one thing: to continue to transmit his limitless passion.

Kobold - Lofty Business

When a Westerner hears the word "Sherpa," he or she immediately associates it with mountain climbing. There is a good reason for this: the Sherpa caste, at home at the foot of Mt. Everest, part of the Himalayan mountain range, makes its living by guiding tourists coming to Nepal to conquer the mountain. This is a dangerous, ungrateful job - but in many cases it is the best way for a member of the Sherpa ethnic group to support its family.

Watchmaker Sherpas

Namgel Sherpa and Thundu Sherpa probably often gratefully pray to their gods since the day that Sir Ranulph Fiennes and Michael Kobold showed up in Kathmandu in 2008, the latter having spontaneously decided to accompany his friend and the Kobold Watch Company ambassador who has been described as "the world's greatest living adventurer" on an Everest bid. Kobold was unprepared to climb, and he had not even reckoned with reaching what's known as base camp (the last acclimation settlement before serious climbers head up the earth's highest mountain, which peaks at 8,848 meters (29,029 feet) above sea level). He made it up much higher before both he and Fiennes had to turn back; it was then he discovered he was officially bit by the same bug that has plagued adventurers the world over.
Kobold and Fiennes returned in 2009 and made it to the summit, with Kobold repeating the feat in 2010 together with his wife Anita Ugyan, who climbed without oxygen. During the three adventurous climbs, the lives of Kobold and other members of his crew - particularly his wife - were seriously endangered. Only by the grace of the Sherpas did they survive, and in his gratitude Kobold decided to make a suggestion uttered by Fiennes in 2008 into reality and invest in an unprecedented venture: training the two Sherpas as watchmakers and having them run a new subsidiary in Kathmandu called Kobold Watch Company Nepal (Pvt.) Ltd as co-owners.

"These two caught on really quickly," Kobold's head watchmaker, Dale Poindexter, said of the Sherpas' ability to learn the complicated techniques involved in mechanical watchmaking during the official opening of Kobold Nepal on March 26. Poindexter trained them for ten months in Kobold's Pittsburgh facility.
Made in Nepal
As manufacturing and crafts only employ 6 percent of Nepal's 27 million-b population, it is safe to say that skilled labor is not one of this country's assets. In fact, Kobold is certain that his venture is a highly motivational one for the people of Nepal, a way for them to imagine a different future. "Newspapers have already written that Nepal, unable to produce even a sewing needle, now has 'watch movements' with hundreds of parts. This is sure to greatly increase the confidence of the Nepalese in themselves."

The "standard" Kobold watch model bearing the predicate "made in Nepal," assembled in the Sherpas' new workshop, which is equipped with exceedingly solid, locally custom-made benches crafted from local wood, is called the Himalaya. It is housed in a 44 mm stainless steel case that was made in the U.S.A. The three-handed dial comes in brown or black and exudes the typical Kobold legibility that is the signature element of this adventurous brand. The automatic movement is a Kobold specialty: Caliber K.2651 is based on a vintage Förster movement from Pforzheim. Kobold is the only company currently using this refurbished and improved movement in serial watches. Water-resistant to 100 meters, the timepiece is protected by a sapphire crystal that is also sourced in the U.S.A. Its rugged, understated elegance completed by an alligator skin strap also crafted in the U.S.A. will allow this watch to be worn in any circumstances: on the mountain or in the city.
To celebrate the opening, Kobold also offered a limited edition of 25 very special watches - which were unfortunately already sold out before the evening of the opening had even come to its exciting conclusion. The Himalaya Everest Edition features a very special dial crafted from a Mt. Everest summit limestone that Kobold plucked from the lofty ground and brought back down the mountain in 2009. A German specialist company located in Idar-Oberstein spent two years ensuring the structural integrity of the beautiful dials crafted from this rock that now forms the mysterious 5 mm-thick face of the Himalaya Everest Edition. Needless to say, each of the 25 pieces is unique in its own way thanks to the natural material.

Last but hardly least
Many colorful and important personages attended the evening festivity, including a handful of ambassadors to Nepal, two top generals of the Nepalese army -who ended up "guarding" the Kobold collection inspected by party guests in the new workshop - several members of the deposed royal family of Nepal, the commander-in-chief of its army and other influential fans of Kobold watches from various countries. They had all attended not only to support the new business but also to hear Kobold's famed ambassador tell stories of his exploits. Fiennes has been entered into the "Guinness Book of World Records" as "the greatest living explorer." This man, previously an esteemed Rolex ambassador for 20 years, is the author of many world firsts as well as gripping books. When he and Kobold summited Mt. Everest in 2009, Fiennes was 65 years old. He is a top celebrity in the U.K. and according to JustGiving.com, the U.K.'s top celebrity fundraiser.
Asked why he gave up the Rolex sponsorship in favor of becoming Kobold's top ambassador, Fiennes replied in his typically direct way, "Gratitude and loyalty." This seems to be a running theme in the world of Kobold, and flows in both directions.

Namgel and Thundu did not seem particularly fazed by any of this hoopla - least of all the celebrity explorer they have guided up their home mountain twice - and exuded a calm, interested outward demeanor throughout the entire event. In the space of the four years that they have known Kobold, the world of the two Sherpas who have climbed Mt. Everest a combined total of sixteen times has become an entirely different one. Though hard to get involved answers from them, when asked if they felt pride at all these accomplishments, the answer was clear: a big smile and an enthusiastic "yes!" accompanied by vigorous nodding. I'm not certain they understand the historic proportions of their actions over the last few years, but they have time to discover it - time mechanically measured by an adventurous Kobold watch that they keep running.

Rolex - Handy Complication

Worldtempus - 11 March 2012

Undoubtedly, the Sky-Dweller is Rolex's showstopper for this year. It is not only a totally unexpected new model - since everyone was expecting a new Daytona, as that model was introduced 50 years ago - but also sports a brand new complication, the first in 60 years: an annual calendar.
When Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master II in 2007, this model with its regatta-dedicated countdown was as far as the famed Swiss watch company had gone in terms of mechanical complications. With the Sky-Dweller launch, however, Rolex shows that it can do so much more than the well-known - and highly respected - Yacht-Master, GMT and Daytona in terms of complications. With the Sky-Dweller, Rolex clearly shows that the company can be a horological powerhouse. When it wants to.

Surprised?
Why do we even act surprised? We already saw complicated Rolex models with calendar functions and moon phase indicator back in the 1940s and '50s. But that was then, and this is now. And even now, the Sky-Dweller is a strikingly different approach to the rather conservative modern horology that Rolex has made its signature element - particularly in comparison to pretty much all of its ticking colleagues.
Unique model
Sky-Dweller, sporting 380 movement parts and no less than 14 patents in the all-new Caliber 9001 movement, of which five are completely new, is a perfect timepiece for the frequent traveler. It offers both a home and a second time zone via the off-centered disc display as well as a rather unique annual calendar. Unique for Rolex, that is.
The annual calendar makes the automatic change to the first of the next month at the end of months with 30 and 31 days, which means that you only have to change the date manually on February 28 (or 29 during leap years). But how does the movement know what month it is? Simple: since a year has twelve months, Rolex cleverly decided to indicate the current month on the circumference of the dial using a perforated window. For instance, this month (March) has a blackened window at the 3 o'clock position. So simple, and just the way Rolex likes it. Simplicity certainly seems to be the credo of the brand, no matter what the complication is.

Ring command
The functions of the Rolex Sky-Dweller are set by the so-called rotating Ring Command bezel. By turning it, you can set second time zone, date or time when the crown is unscrewed.
The design of the inner 24-hour dial ring has been actively discussed around the globe since the beginning of the fair. Not surprisingly, a lot of negative emotion has been expressed. This is undoubtedly due to the rather unconventional design - something that Rolex lovers are not at all used to. But in terms of being a tool watch, Rolex again proves to be a true champion.
This new 42 mm model, offered in white and yellow gold on a bracelet as well as Everose (rose) gold on a strap, clearly illustrates the (for many surprising) ability of probably the best watch company in the world. Rolex is finally blowing its Swiss alphorn, indicating that we should never take Rolex for granted.
The Rolex Sky-Dweller is offered at an entry price of approximately 31,200 euros (Everose on strap).

Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Submariner

The archetype of the diver's watch, the Oyster Perpetual SUBMARINER presented at Baselworld 2012 sports a new look to complement its iconic personality. with its subtly redesigned case and its new bezel and bracelet both benefitting from recent Rolex innovations, this latest generation SUBMARINER is firmly in line with the tradition of the historic model launched in 1953. It sets new standards in terms of robustness, legibility and reliability, strengthening its status as a watch of action with timeless allure.

Ceramic bezel and long-lasting luminescent display

The unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel of this new SUBMARINER is equipped with a black CERACHROM insert made of virtually scratchproof, non-fading, corrosion-resistant ceramic. The graduations are coated via a PVd process with a thin layer of platinum. The sleek black dial harbours large CHROMALIGHT hour markers and hands filled with luminescent material that emits a long-lasting blue glow. This exclusive display offers exceptional legibility in the dark.

The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness

The SUBMARINER's 40 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 300 metres (1,000 feet), is a paragon of robustness. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosion-resistant 904L steel. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TRIPLOCK triple waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case in a manner akin to a submarine's hatch. It is protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case ensures optimal protection for the SUBMARINER's high-precision movement.

Calibre 3130, a superlative chronometer

The new SUBMARINER is equipped with calibre 3130, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3130 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.

The OYSTERLOCK clasp, functional and secure

This SUBMARINER is fitted with a solid-link OYSTER bracelet in 904L steel. It features a new-generation OYSTERLOCK safety clasp and GLIdELOCK extension system. The ingenious patented system, located beneath the clasp cover, allows fine adjustments of the bracelet length in 2 mm increments for a total of approximately 20 mm - without using any tools. This allows the watch to be worn over a diving suit up to 3 mm thick and provides additional comfort in any circumstance.

Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller

The Oyster Perpetual SKY-DWELLER presented at Baselworld 2012 is the latest addition to the Oyster collection, a compelling timepiece of revolutionary design that blends to perfection technological sophistication and ease of use.

With 14 patents - five of which are new - the SKY-DWELLER provides, in an unprecedented and highly original way, the information global travellers need to easily keep track of time: a dual time zone, with local time read via centre hands and a reference time display in 24-hour format read via a rotating off-centre disc visible on the dial; a particularly innovative annual calendar named SAROS - in tribute to the astronomical phenomenon which inspired it - that requires only one date adjustment a year, when the month changes from February to March; and a month display by means of 12 discreet apertures around the circumference of the dial.

A majestic expression of the art of watchmaking and the product of Rolex's exceptional technical expertise, the SKY-DWELLER is as intuitive to read as it is simple to use. Local time, reference time and the date are rapidly set using a highly innovative interface between the case and movement. The rotatable RING COMMAND bezel is the focal point of the interface, allowing the wearer to select the individual functions to be set simply by turning the bezel. Each function can then be adjusted swiftly and easily in both directions by means of the winding crown, which has only one setting position.

The SKY-DWELLER is equipped with a new calibre, the 9001, an officially certified Swiss chronometer entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. The SKY-DWELLER epitomizes the values of precision, robustness and reliability for which Rolex watches are renowned. It bears witness to the creative force of a brand dedicated to its passion for innovation at the service of the wearer.

The SKY-DWELLER is designed for those who place the emphasis on useful functions, effortless manipulation, prestige and elegance above all. Available in 18 ct white, yellow or EVEROSE gold cast by Rolex in its own foundry, this advanced wristwatch features the fluted bezel that symbolizes the codes of the brand. With its stately 42 mm OYSTER case, it is the embodiment of perfect symbiosis between form and function, aesthetics and technology.

With the SKY-DWELLER, Rolex once again demonstrates its wealth of ingenuity by designing and manufacturing a watch that perpetuates the OYSTER's legendary excellence.

Dual time zone and 24-hour display

The combined display of local time via centre watch hands and reference time via an off-centre disc makes the SKY-DWELLER easy to read and endows it with unique aesthetics.

The Oyster Perpetual SKY-DWELLER features a dual time zone that is as intuitive to read as it is simple to use. The display's highly original design endows the watch with an aesthetic identity all of its own.

Reference time via an off-centre disc

Global travellers can read the reference time - the time at home or at their usual place of work - via a rotating off-centre disc visible on the dial. A fixed inverted red triangle points to the wearer's chosen reference time. The disc's 24-hour display allows travellers to clearly distinguish daytime hours from night-time hours in the reference time zone (for example, 10 p.m. versus 10 a.m.). At any moment and in any location, they know if it is an appropriate time to contact someone on the other side of the world.

Centre hands for local time

Local time at the destination is indicated by the conventional centre hour, minute and seconds hands. It can be set very quickly and easily thanks to a mechanism that allows the hour hand to be adjusted independently in one-hour increments both forwards and backwards, so that changing the local hour does not affect the minute or seconds hands or the reference time.

Date change linked to local time

The date change is linked to local time and occurs within a few milliseconds at midnight. Thus, the date displayed in the aperture is always the current date in the wearer's local time zone. Thanks to its innovative display and simple operation, the SKY-DWELLER allows the traveller to adjust the watch to different time zones during a journey, while benefitting from a constant, clear display of reference time.

Saros Annual Calendar

A particularly ingenious patented mechanism inspired by an astronomical phenomenon differentiates between 30-day and 31-day months, thanks to just four additional gear wheels.

The Oyster Perpetual SKY-DWELLER is equipped with a revolutionary annual calendar offering unparalleled robustness and reliability for such a complex watchmaking function. This annual calendar's qualities are attributable to an ingenious mechanism named SAROS, patented by Rolex. Its original design was directly inspired by the astronomical phenomenon of the same name.

Only one adjustment per year

This annual calendar automatically differentiâtes between 30-day and 31-day months. It displays the correct date throughout the year and requires only one adjustment a year - on 1st March, February having only 28 or 29 days.

A system with intelligence

The ingenuity of the SAROS system developed by Rolex lies in its simple and systematic handling of the irregular occurrence of 30 and 31-day months. This intelligent mechanism is based on only two gear ratios and four gear wheels added to the traditional Rolex instantaneous date calendar. Such simplicity ensures peerless robustness and reliability for the annual calendar function.

Planetary and satellite wheels

The Greek term Saros has been used since antiquity to designate an approximately 18-year cycle of alignment patterns between the Sun, the Earth and the Moon that is behind lunar and solar eclipses. This astronomical phenomenon inspired the design of the SKY-DWELLER's annual calendar mechanism. The SAROS system is designed around a fixed planetary gear Wheel (equivalent to the Sun) at the centre of the movement. A satellite wheel (whose centre represents the Earth) engages with the planetary wheel and rotates, orbiting the planetary wheel in one month, driven by the date disc. The satellite wheel is fitted with four fingers (the Moon) for the four 30-day months (April, June, September and November).

Double instantaneous date change

The gear ratio between the satellite wheel and the planetary wheel is calculated in such a way that at the end of each 30-day month - and only in these months - one of the satellite's fingers receives an additional impulse from the date change mechanism. This makes the calendar disc jump two days (from the 30th to the 1st) within a few milliseconds to display the correct date.

Discreet month apertures

The months of the year are indicated in 12 discreet apertures around the circumference of the dial, outside the hour markers: January at 1 o'clock, February at 2 o'clock, and so on. The current month is identified in a contrasting colour.

RING COMMAND BEZEL

The Ring Command Bezel can be turned to any one of three positions to choose the function to be set: date, local time or reference time.

The Oyster Perpetual SKY-DWELLER is equipped with a rotatable RING COMMAND bezel that allows the wearer to easily select the watch's different functions via an innovative, patented interface between the movement and case.

Unrestricted setting

The RING COMMAND bezel can be turned to any one of three positions to select the function to be set: date, local time or reference time. The selected function can then be rapidly adjusted in either direction, forwards or backwards, using the winding crown, which has only one setting position. Unlike traditional mechanisms, this interface developed by Rolex allows unrestricted setting.

A simple and intuitive interface

This simple and intuitive interface is based on a complex mechanical module which consists of no fewer than 60 components and demands state-of-the-art watchmaking and micromechanical expertise. The heart of the mechanism is a double cam and levers that engage various gear trains inside the movement according to the function selected. One of these cams is activated by pulling out the winding crown, the other is driven by rotating the bezel to activate setting wheels located in the middle case of the watch.

An expression of Rolex values

With its innovative interface between the watch case and the movement, the RING COMMAND bezel is the product of Rolex's total mastery of the design and manufacture of all the essential components of the watch. Rolex once again demonstrates core values that have always placed an emphasis on functionality and wearer comfort.

Classic elegance of the fluted bezel

With its iconic Rolex fluting, the SKY-DWELLER is firmly established in the lineage of the models in the OYSTER collection, such as the Datejust or the Day-Date , which have become symbols of prestige and timeless elegance.

Calibre 9001

A certified chronometer, this new high-performance movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex consists of 380 components and is backed by seven patents.

The Oyster Perpetual SKY-DWELLER's calibre 9001 is a completely new self-winding mechanical movement, a pure distillation of Rolex technology. Entirely developed and manufactured in-house, with a total of 380 components and backed by seven patents - four of which are new - it is one of the most complex calibres ever developed by the brand.

A selector wheel on the outside edge of the movement ensures the interaction of the movement and the bezel of the watch to set the functions.

Chronometric precision

Calibre 9001 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. The oscillator has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy.

Singular reliability

The architecture behind the 9001, like that of all PERPETUAL movements at Rolex, makes it singularly reliable. The oscillator is fitted between high-performance PARAFLEX shock absorbers, developed and patented by Rolex, that offer 50 per cent greater resistance to shocks. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge. The SAROS annual calendar and the RING COMMAND setting system are also designed to be exceptionally robust.

Self-winding by Perpetual rotor

Calibre 9001 is fitted with a self-winding mechanism featuring Rolex's PERPETUAL rotor which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing movements of the wrist to provide a constant source of energy.

Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Datejust Lady 31 & Lady-Datejust

This new 18 ct yellow gold version is beautifully enhanced by a dazzling bezel set with 48 brilliant-cut diamonds. Its new champagne colour dial is adorned with eight diamonds and, at 6 and 9 o'clock, 18 ct yellow gold Arabic numerals are each set with 16 rubies. The deliciously whimsical personality of this DATEJUST LADY 31 with all its allure of fine jewellery is paired with the technical qualities proper to every OYSTER.

Distinguished and highly elegant, the Oyster Perpetual LADY-DATEJUST unveils a new facet of its enticing femininity. The 18 ct yellow gold case of this gem for all occasions is exalted by a new champagne colour dial on which a large VI set with 11 rubies delicately and discreetly underlines the precious character of the model. The fluted bezel, a Rolex signature aesthetic feature, reasserts the watch's place in the lineage of the DATEJUST, an emblematic Rolex model which became renowned for its style and horological performance from the moment of its launch in 1945.
Rolex yellow gold
The 18 ct yellow gold of the case and bracelet of these two models is alloyed by Rolex in its own foundry before being shaped in the brand's workshops. Its unique lustre is the result of the extreme care with which it is shaped, machined and finally polished.

The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
The OYSTER case of these two models (31 and 26 mm respectively), guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of proportion and elegance. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct gold. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TWINLOCK double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a CYCLOPS lens at 3 o'clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case allies refinement with efficiency in protecting the high-precision movement.
Calibre 2235, a superlative chronometer
The DATEJUST LADY 31 and the LADY-DATEJUST are equipped with calibre 2235, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 2235 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all Oyster watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable.

Comfort, elegance and prestige of the OYSTER and PRESIDENT bracelets
The DATEJUST LADY 31 is fitted with an 18 ct yellow gold OYSTER bracelet with a concealed folding CROWNCLASP. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet offers remarkable comfort and ease of use. The LADY-DATEJUST model is fitted with an 18 ct yellow gold PRESIDENT bracelet with a concealed folding CROWNCLASP. This prestigious and elegant bracelet with solid semi-circular links is uniquely comfortable to wear and contributes fully to the aesthetics of the watch.

Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Day Date

When it appeared in 1956, the DAY-DATE was the first wristwatch with a calendar indicating the day of the week spelt out in full in a window on the dial. The DAY-DATE adorned with a new gem-set dial perpetuates Rolex's legendary excellence and displays all the brand's watchmaking know-how and technology.

Chocolate, diamonds and rubies
In an 18 ct EVEROSE gold case of incomparable lustre, this DAY-DATE is fitted with a chocolate colour dial on which the hours are marked by precious stones: eight diamonds and, at 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock, baguette-cut rubies.

Rolex pink gold
The 18 ct EVEROSE gold of the OYSTER case and bracelet is alloyed by Rolex in its own foundry before being shaped in the brand's workshops. The incomparably warm tone of this exclusive pink gold alloy developed by Rolex is heightened by the addition of a touch of platinum. Its unique lustre is the result of the extreme care with which it is shaped, machined and finally polished.

The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
The DAY-DATE's 36 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of proportion and elegance. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct gold. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TWINLOCK double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The fluted bezel is a Rolex signature aesthetic feature. The crystal, with a CYCLOPS lens at 3 o'clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case allies refinement with efficiency in protecting the DAY-DATE's high-precision movement.
Calibre 3155, a superlative chronometer
This DAY-DATE is equipped with calibre 3155, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3155 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.

Comfort and elegance of the OYSTER bracelet
This DAY-DATE model is fitted with an 18 ct EVEROSE gold OYSTER bracelet with a concealed folding CROWNCLASP. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet offers remarkable comfort and ease of use.

Market - Make An Investment in Luxury Watches

Asia Tatler - 15. November 2011

Last month, DKSH Holdings held its first Swiss watch auction in Hong Kong with a promising total of HK$23.4 million worth of luxury timepieces sold at the auction. With the growing number of luxury watch boutiques populating the streets of Hong Kong, it is without a doubt that the watch market has grown exponentially, and that now there are more not only willing to purchase luxury timepieces but more than ever before, there is a growing market for watch investment. We talk to Gonpo Tsering, head operations support and member of group management of DKSH in hope to learn more about the value of watches and the booming watch market.

According to Tsering, the Swiss Auctions, an activity of DKSH's business segment in luxury and lifestyle, was held in Hong Kong for the first time because the company saw the need for a platform to bridge the gap between owners of rare and important timepieces and collectors hunting for rare collectible timepieces.
"DKSH identified this niche market and is catering to this demand with a very high-end auction for watches. Hong Kong - this thriving and throbbing city - was our immediate first choice for obvious reasons. Hong Kong is becoming highly attractive to watch collectors from all over the world - and the fact that there are no sales or luxury tax here is of course very conducive to promote this trend."
Read about Boucheron's exquisite craftsmanship here.
For those who want to start their own watch collection or begin investing in watches, it is crucial to give a timepiece its rightful value. Tsering recommends a few ways to determine a watch's value:
1) Take note of the brand of the watch
2) Take into account the condition of the timepiece
3) Find out when it was manufactured
Second, potential buyers should also refer to a watch price guide and appraisal information to find out where the value ranges for the watch. Last, but not least, work with a professional watch appraisers who can value the watch and provide an appraisal certificate.

"I would suggest that new watch collectors learn more about the watch market and the techniques on how watches are being appreciated and valued. The internet is a good first starting point to gather knowledge about watches. Besides, they should also attend auctions so that they can get firsthand information about the value of the watch and the trend of the market. My personal advice: focus on either a brand, on a certain period, or on a special category of timepieces. My personal favourite is pocket watches, which are not so popular currently and therefore very affordable," he advised.
Apart from looking at the new watches released by major brands and manufactures, watch investors are advised to go to watch auctions to source possible investment pieces. Watch auctions does not only give collectors the choice of the best collectables at a single location, but it gives the guarantee that the watches are authentic and are in good condition while it also reduces the amount of extensive research.

Tsering shares his belief that there is a clear sign that the watch market will definitely continue to blossom with an Asian force.
"The potential growth of the market for timepieces and watch collection is indisputable. Asia's remarkable growth and the rapidly emerging middle class will lead to a significant increase in demand for luxury and lifestyle goods, driving further growth in the luxury market."
Black rolexes are a hit in the auction houses, find out where you can get your own black Rolex here.
With such new force in the watch industry, Tsering said there is also one more thing that investors should bear in mind: Asian consumers trends have now changed. In the past, Asian consumers usually follow global trends. Now, a new wealthy class with more international exposure is coming up from developing Asian countries, they tend to know more about the market and are interestingly becoming fonder of simpler and more conservative designs. So, when investors are selecting potential investment pieces, they should also be aware of which sector of the industry they are targeting.

For example, among the top lots sold at the auction was a Historie de Tourbillion, a Zalium manual-winding tourbillion from Harry Winston. This 18k white gold timepiece was manufactured in 2009 and was sold for an impressive HK$2.55 million.

Christie's - Live And Let Die

The present Rolex ref. 5513, modified by the famous Q Branch, is certainly the most memorable Submariner to appear in movies and must be considered a veritable trophy not only for the watch aficionado but also for the amateurs of cinematography and of James Bond in general.

Especially designed for James Bond to be worn during 007''s mission in Live and Let Die, it was created in 1972 by the world-famous film production designer Syd Cain.
Featuring not only a bezel spinning at high speed to cut ropes and chains, in the movie it also bore an ultra-b magnet which was supposed to neutralize bullets but was, instead, used by 007 to unzip Ms. Solitaire's dress.
The lot will be sold together with an original construction drawing and two signed images from the set (estimate: SFr. 200,000 - 400,000).

George Daniels - 1926-2011

WORLDTEMPUS - 24 October 2011

It was hard to imagine the watch industry before George Daniels, and it will be hard to imagine this place now that he has left it: Daniels was nothing if not an iridescent figure, often setting the tone of good horological taste behind the scenes.
This might be hard for newcomers to imagine today since Daniels only created a total of 37 watches - pocket watches, no less - in addition to a series of 50 wristwatches completed together with protege Roger Smith called Millennium as well as the beginning of the collaborative venture with him introduced last year. As avid followers of horological history will know, the Omega base caliber powering the 50 Millennium timepieces held special meaning. Daniels was, of course, the inventor of the co-axial escapement that is now utilized in every single Omega wristwatch.

A true expert
Though Daniels began his professional life after serving his country in World War II with the proverbial 50 quid in his pocket - just enough to buy his first set of tools, as the story goes - his drive, ambition and enormous talent made him a very wealthy man. Some of his fortune was acquired by buying and selling precious vintage pieces and selling 35 of his own unique pocket watches, but most of it came from selling what was to become his most famous invention to the Swatch Group.
No two of Daniels' creations were ever completely alike. The next watch was always undertaken because Daniels had another idea to try out, another escapement to experiment with or desired other functions. He invented the co-axial escapement in 1975, but did not patent his perfected design until 1980. After a long search that involved talks with both Patek Philippe and Rolex over the course of a decade and a half, Daniels eventually sold the design to Omega, who needed almost another decade to bring it to serial fruition. Though the patent has now run out, no other watch brands use the co-axial aside from Omega and Smith, who has adapted it for use in his own masterfully crafted timepieces, which also contain other traditional elements of English watchmaking.

Personal memories
When I entered the watch industry, I had no idea who Daniels was. I soon read his opus "Watchmaking" (which was recently republished by Watchprint) in order to learn the basics. However, it was only after becoming friends with various independent watchmakers - predominately members of the AHCI - that I began to understand his place in our industry. One year at Basel, one of them even stood in line at the Omega booth in order to get his own copy of "Watchmaking" signed by the master - and couldn't stop beaming at the chance to meet his idol. Tellingly, François-Paul Journe also worshipped Daniels, even going so far as to present him with one of his own watches last year. For my own part, I found myself fairly well in awe in the presence of Dr. Daniels (he was presented with an honorary title later in life). His technical and industry insights and knowledge were eternally enlightening.

George Daniels passed away at his estate on the Isle of Man following complications arising from hip replacement surgery at the age of 85. A funeral is expected to be held on the Isle of Man in about two weeks' time. Fans of Daniels will be pleased to know that a biography written by Michael Clerizo with the current working title "George Daniels: A Master Watchmaker and His Work" is due to be published next fall.
George Daniels, A Master Watchmaker & His Art
FRENCH VERSION (216 Pages • 240 ill. • Format : 29.5 x 29.5 cm. Price : CHF 160.00 • € 140.00).
ENGLISH VERSION (216 Pages • 240 ill. • Format : 29.5 x 29.5 cm. Price : CHF 105.00 • € 93.00).

Rolex - Explorer II on the Wrist

Rumor has it that the new Rolex Explorer II was ready for presentation in 2010, but that Rolex did not present this new face-lifted version of the sporty watch until 2011 - 40 years after the first Explorer II was launched.
For many years, Rolex has been respected as well as ridiculed for its conservative approach to case sizes: 40 millimeters seemed to be the biggest case diameter offered in the sports collection. In the last few years, we have seen more and more models with a tendency toward growth: Yacht-Master II and Sea-Dweller DeepSea both come in a case of 44 millimeter diameters, and now the Explorer II also offers a diameter of 42 millimeter.
The Explorer II has never been the most popular reference made by the famed Swiss watch brand. The Submariner and GMT models have been the favored siblings, but even these two models still offer a moderate case diameter of 40 millimeters. Maybe Rolex wanted to push needed attention towards the Explorer II, hence the extra two millimeters?

Large watch
42 millimeters may seem like a large watch. However, since many parts and details of the new reference have grown, the visual size does not seem that radical. The case, hands, crown and hour markers are in other words dimensionally on par with the new case diameter. Visually, that is.
Wearing the watch, however, does challenge the visual impression. The Explorer II is a large watch. Comparing this to Reference 1655 or Reference 16570, which came out even later, the size difference is almost shocking. As mentioned, this will please those who have not yet bought a Rolex because they thought the watches looked too puny on their wrists.
Inspired by the past
One of the obvious details on the new Explorer II is of course the orange 24-hour hand. "Freccione," as Italian Rolex collectors long ago named this hand, means "arrow". This is a feature taken directly from the Reference 1655 Explorer II launched in 1971. The 24-hour hand was not separately adjustable on the early version, though. It merely functioned as an AM/PM indicator. However, bezel design looks more like the bezel of the short-lived Reference 16550 that was introduced in 1985 and face-lifted already four years later.

Phantom hands
The hands of the new Explorer II sport a so-called phantom effect, which means the lower part of the hour and minute hand is painted black. This little detail makes the hands look like they float free of the arbor. This works well on the black dial version, and merely represents a great contrast on the white dial version.
Latest movement update
Reference 216570 is outfitted with Caliber 3187, which features the latest technical updates like Paraflex shock absorbers and the non-magnetic Parachrom hairspring, which "ensures unparallel reliability, and shock resistance," according to Rolex.

White dial winner
The white dial version, even if it does not correspond perfectly to the 1971 version that was only offered with a black dial, gets my vote as favorite of the two dial versions. The b, graphic black/white contrast makes it stand out as this watch brand really does not offer a lot of white-dial sports watches. Actually, only the Daytona and Yacht-Master II come with a white dial, but the GMT, Submariner and Yacht-Master models do not.
Oldies but goodies
This said, I admit to favor not only Reference 1655, but also the 16550 or even the 16570. Not only due to their case diameters of "only" 40 millimeters, but also because these earlier versions have a more tool-ish approach to horology. And this is, after all, where the Explorer II started - as an instrument watch for cave explorers.
Rolex Explorer II Reference 216570 is offered with black or white dial and has a suggested retail price of 6,400 euros.

Success - Instinct vs strategy

GMT Italia - Summer 2011

Amongst the teams competing in the great watchmaking championships, two "dream teams" draw particular attention to themselves. One of them, led by Jean-Claude Biver, is stabled with the LMVH group. The other, under the watchful eye of Georges Kern, is to be found at the heart of the Richemont group.
Both run a brand, while

inspiring others, either directly or indirectly. Both are surrounded by a new generation of promising managers, such as Jean-Frederic Dufour at LMVH, or Alain Zimmermann at Richemont. Both implement their marketing strategies with unfailing efficiency. In both cases, obviously, we are talking about watchmaking, but also (above all?) about business.

At LMVH, annual sales in the watchmaking and jewellery sector added up to close on a billion euro on December 31 last year, showing an almost insolent 29% increase. At Richemont, it took only six months to pass the 900 million euro mark with the watchmaking division alone. Here also, growth was nothing short of incredible: +38% for the semester April to September 2010! Both these captains of industry face huge pressure, stiff competition - including internally - and similar challenges: conquering new markets, managing the supply chain and distribution network, ensuring growth and coherence with the brand values. Even though the demands - and successes - are similar, their style is completely different. There is Jean-Claude Biver's spontaneous, creative marketing. This man shows off his brand, Hublot, in the most unexpected places, maximising opportunities at major events. He is able to evaluate an event and make a decision in just a few minutes, moving onto turf already occupied by his competitors. We saw him flirt with Alinghi before taking over its sponsorship from Audemars Piguet. We saw him on the illuminated referee boards at the last World Cup, as well as lighting up the Vendôme column standing at the heart of the most prestigious location in Paris - and incidentally right in the middle of the logo of Van Cleef & Arpels, a watchmaking colleague and competitor. His brand is to be found on skis, bicycles and even... cheese wheels!

Georges Kern on the other hand, practises business school marketing with unfailing rigour. In his realm, creativity is not paramount, but is channelled and used as part of a long-term strategy. Be it IWC, Baume & Mercier or Roger Dubois, the markets are fragmented, with products distributed on a value pyramid and innovations selected depending on gaps that need to be filled, building the worlds of reference frameworks that accompany each brand down to the last detail. Baume & Mercier is spending this year under the Capeland banner, with its American East Coast flavour, while IWC took up residence in Portofino. Roger Dubois is ticking to casino time and even its USB sticks are shaped like gambling chips. Exuberance vs rigour, instinct vs strategy, the completely opposing style of these two men is apparent on all levels. Take their annual reports on the figures and performance of their brands.

The Richemont Group to which IWC belongs tends not to say too much and prefers to opt for secrecy, much in the same manner as private banks, as if opacity were a measure of power and success. In this respect, the operational style of the group chaired by Johann Rupert is very similar to that of Rolex. Jean-Claude Biver, on the other hand, sends waves of text messages to announce the results of his most recent exhibition, or the signing of a new partnership. At the end of the day, the information that he is supposedly sharing is necessarily only partial, but it is shared with such enthusiasm that it leaves a pleasantly transparent aftertaste.

The numbers are either stifled or proclaimed to the world at large, and the managers themselves also opt for high or low profiles. Jean-Claude Biver pops up all over the place in the columns of the financial press or social magazines.Georges Kern is more discreet, and while he is quite happy to appear next to football, cinema or literary celebrities, as soon as the public is involved, he promotes the brand itself. Asthey say at Richemont, "The brand is the star". So basically we are looking at two very different recipes for creating the same dish - success.

Book - Collecting Rolex GMT-Master

After the great success of the first edition "Collecting Rolex GMT-MASTER wristwatches", now sold out, Mondani Editor has decided to publish a second version which also presents the models produced in recent years, in order to give the information which has become essential today for buying and selling GMT-Master watches and to improve the contents of the preceding edition.

Some of the questions a collector asks himself nowadays are:
- Are the aluminium bezel inserts of the ref. 6542 coeval?
- Is there a way to know if the bezel has been replaced?
- The ref. 1675 in stainless steel has been created with the possibility to fit two bezels: red/blue and black?
Thanks to the in depth study, this edition helps to dispel these doubts.

Only in this book will it be possible to find the first models of the 50's down to the most recent watches. Special attention has been paid to the variations of the bezels, dials and cases - factors which today help determine the value of the watch. "Collecting Rolex GMT-MASTER" is a specific volume about Rolex GMT - MASTER which includes timepieces from the first models of the 1950's to the ones of the last period, including prototypes, military models, bracelets and all case and dial variants.

This edition also offers a widening of those references which have always been desired by enthusiasts and collectors, such as for example the refs. 6542, 1675, 16750 and many others.

For each reference, a detailed sheet is reported, indicating the years of beginning and end of production, the calibre and all the characteristics of the watch (crystal, bezel, bracelet, case back, winding crown, case number with production year, dial, movement, ...).
"Collecting Rolex GMT-MASTER Wristwatches" also offers a widening of those references which have always been objects of desire of enthusiasts and collectors, such as the refs. 6542, 1675, 16750 and many others.

ORDER THIS BOOK
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Rolex - Wimbledon and the Crown

WORLDTEMPUS - 30 June 2011

Wimbledon may seem anachronistic - grass courts are virtually extinct outside Britain - with its somewhat outdated traditions, but in reality the most prestigious tennis event in the world has always been a trailblazer. Its secret is actually to continuously change while staying the same, displaying long-term perspective to realize that its traditionalist aura is its biggest strength.
Rolex boasts precisely the same approach. Seemingly immune to fashion and trends, the Geneva-based brand maintains a consistent collection that features subtle changes every year, with even the updates carefully made to respect the "evolution in continuity" that seems to be the company's mantra.
Wimbledon and Rolex have been together since 1978 and form one of the oldest associations in the history of sports sponsoring - a partnership made in heaven, since even the dominant corporate color of both institutions is the green that governs the landscape and grass courts of the All England Lawn Tennis Club where the tournament is held. Clearly bound by mutual respect for tradition and long-term vision, the long-standing relationship between Wimbledon and Rolex is set to last.
High-caliber tennis pedigree
In the past decade, Rolex has become one of tennis's biggest investors, assuming the timekeeping role in many of the biggest events and boasting a growing stable of ambassadors.
Beside its historical tie with Wimbledon, the Geneva-based company also sponsors another Grand Slam tournament in the Australian Open, the biggest team competitions in the world (Davis Cup and Federation Cup), the year-end championships on both tours (ATP World Tour Finals and WTA Championships), and several Masters 1000 events - including the Monte-Carlo Masters. The list of testimonial ambassadors among the active players is topped by living legend Roger Federer, who won the first of his record-holding sixteen Grand Slams precisely at Wimbledon. He embodies Swiss precision on court. Other Rolex testimonials include the charismatic Frenchman Jo-Wilfried Tsonga, the gentle giant from Argentina Juan Martin del Potro, world number one Caroline Wozniacki, former world number one Ana Ivanovic, recent French Open champion Li Na and her Chinese countrywoman Zheng Jie.
The question lies directly at the tip of the tongue: why is Rolex investing in tennis so heavily?

Firstly, thanks to its longstanding association with Wimbledon, Rolex can boast a tennis "pedigree" of the highest caliber. Secondly, one of the brand's sponsoring directors knows everything about the sport: Arnaud Boetsch, a former number 12 in the world rankings, and the man who gave France the winning point in the first-ever Davis Cup final decided in the fifth set of the fifth rubber (against host Sweden, in Malmö, 1996). Boetsch had been living in Geneva for some time and, after retiring, started organizing events, including a Legends tournament in the Calvinist city, to which a special guest was invited.
"The president of Rolex was invited to one of the tournaments I organized and then Rolex proposed for me to join its team in 2003 because there was only one person with sponsoring and it was not enough," Boetsch recalls. "Now there are two of us in charge of sponsoring. I take care of all the tennis, sailing and cultural activities; my job is to make sure the Rolex brand keeps on shining and getting the best visibility - not in terms of quantity, but quality-wise. And we like to be associated to the best and most prestigious events."
Wimbledon is the most famous tennis tournament in the world and has a lot in common with Rolex. "There are two words that can define Rolex: tradition and innovation. Wimbledon is the same," says Boetsch, who made it to the All England Club's fourth round in 1992 before losing to Pete Sampras. "Wimbledon has been changing its infrastructure without changing its spirit; building new facilities, a retractable roof on the venerable Centre Court, showcasing a new electronic scoreboard, adopting the Hawk-Eye. Wimbledon changes, but keeps a b tie to its roots." These are roots that go way back to 1877; this year the tournament celebrates its 125th anniversary and, although many changes have been made to the grounds over the years, especially since 1994, the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club has retained its unique image and character, achieving a perfect balance reminiscent of the Oyster Perpetual's concept.
Ambassadors
Rolex has been making the most out of its association with Wimbledon. "We developed a hospitality program from 2005 on, inviting clients from all over the world and offering them Centre Court seating - something really exclusive, providing them an exceptional experience," Boetsch explains.
Several Rolex ambassadors from other sports and areas of life also make the pilgrimage to the tennis Mecca; the prestigious guest list this year included ski champion Lindsay Vonn, horse virtuoso Rodrigo Pessoa, golf legend Gary Player in addition to golfers Adam Scott, Paul Casey and Martin Kaymer, and soprano Dame Kiri Te Kanawa.
The tennis testimonials have been visiting the Rolex suite on Centre Court during the tournament and two of them played a spectacular match just yesterday: Jo-Wilfried Tsonga defeated Roger Federer in a three-hour, 15-minute quarterfinal epic that saw the power of the Frenchman's serve overcoming the Swiss's finesse: 3-6, 6-7, 6-4, 6-4, 6-4.

The revered Centre Court is the quintessential tennis venue and has been kept free of advertisements with a few exceptions in the form of a few small logos. The Rolex sign on the scoreboard is the most famous one. Rolex is not only visible in this classic arena: for more than thirty years, Rolex has played an important role in Wimbledon's history and its clocks have also kept the official time on the outside walls of the hallowed Centre Court and throughout the grounds. For instance, the effervescent media centre possesses a collection of Rolex clocks showing the time in San Francisco, New York, Rio de Janeiro, London, Johannesburg, Tokyo and Melbourne: just a few of the major cities where tennis's greatest tournament is broadcast live.
Among the four Grand Slam tournaments; Wimbledon is certainly primus inter pares. Beside historical reasons, there are natural ones: the grass and the rain, the members and the queues, royalty and celebrities, strawberries and cream, triumph and defeat - and also timeless tennis and Rolex timekeeping.

Veloptuous Times - Glorious Cows and Firs

WORLDTEMPUS - 22 June 2011

Veloptuous Times demanded the best that its protagonists could produce: endurance, resistance to cold and rain, the ability to focus attention after strenuous physical activity for interviews, and stopping as frequently as necessary to take a good photo. There was continuous mental and physical activity at the same time. Between bursts of pedaling, sun and wind, we also needed to find the time to care for our electronic equipment in order to write and publish. This is the reason why this last trip summary is only being published today, three working days after Veloptuous Times officially ended with a successful cocktail party in Neuchâtel.

PHOTO GALLERY

From La Chaux-de-Fonds, during the first hours of Monday, Veloptuous Times soared through the Franches-Montagnes region, along the Jurassic mountain chain. The rock relief practically anticipated our arrival, and our wheels spun quickly across the long country routes. The region has a number of interesting technical elements to offer and we pass many windmills and the central electricity production from the solar panels of Mont-Soleil. Our surroundings are nothing but prairie, forest zone, and fir trees reigning supreme against the backdrop of the permanent music of cowbells.
The wind increased, and we had to fight to arrive in one piece at Georges Cattin's workshop in Le Noirmont. A case manufacturer, organist for 30 years, and collector of electric motors, his workshop is populated solely by mechanical machines, with the most recent dating from 1980. While numerically controlled tools have become the norm among suppliers, Cattin perpetuates a vintage and artisanal way of manufacturing. Son and grandson of a case maker, he is specialized in manufacturing cases decorated - among other things - with fluting and perlage. His services are particularly useful for brands specialized in small series and other operations where CNC is not the best choice or plain incapable.
We parted ways in the afternoon. Anders went toward Saignelegier to meet with a brewer of Franches-Montagnes beers and a cheese producer specialized in tête de moine, which is typical of the region. For my part, I capped my visit to the Bien region with a long, slow descent that gifted me with plenty of different altitudes before hitting the plateau of the countryside boasting three lakes. Arriving in Biel, however, was not so pleasant thanks to the region's heavy traffic, which is concentrated on one thruway connected by a series of tunnels. Side by side with trucks and cars at full speed, the bike - even this super bike - does not carry much weight. Arriving in the city, underneath a sunny sky, was like a release.
Without stopping in the city, which seems to have been built by the Swatch Group, but which is home to many other famous names as well — like Rolex — I headed toward Granges to visit BMC's bike factory. Flat and monotone, this particular stretch was not the most spirited as the savage nature of the Jura had given way to a universe that was agricultural and industrial at the same time.
BMC is specialized in the creation of bike frames and mainly has the other components produced by suppliers - with the exception of the Impec, a bike model presented in 2010 and realized entirely in carbon fiber and reinforced plastic. It is the first full in-house production by the brand. An obvious analogy with horology exists when one discovers the care and high degree of technology necessary to produce these frames.
I now needed to return to Biel to meet up with Anders. We were to establish our camp on a hill overlooking the city and affording a view of the Jura cliffs. This was the last evening spent with Veloptuous Times, and Anders cooked up some scallops and a vegetable curry over the camp fire. Dessert was mousse au chocolat and a celebratory bottle of champagne. Nature made a luxurious backdrop to this final party.
Tuesday began with a visit to Perrelet in Biel to meet up with Fausto Salvi, its CEO, and Karine Marie, in charge of communication. Veloptuous Times then left for the final stage of the ride to Neuchâtel. Along the way, a baker we met during a visit to a wine cellar offered us bread for the evening's cocktail. Having reached the lakes of Biel and Neuchâtel, we managed to enter the heart of the city, ready to prepare the event scheduled at the end of the day. The partners of Worldtempus and Plaza Watch had convened at the Interlope restaurant, which also has an old brewery, to partake in local wines, cheeses, and an excellent mood of all involved - happy to celebrate not only an end, but also a beginning: the beginning of summer.

Christie's - More than US - 26.3 million in Geneva

- Christie's leads the international auction market for watches
- Geneva's Important Watches including a Connoisseur's Vision Part IV achieves a blockbuster total of more than us$ 26.3 million, +25% versus may 2010 results.
- New record price set for any rolex wristwatch at auction
- $3.6 million Patek Philippe - new record price for any simple chronograph watch
- More than a dozen record prices in one day
- 1 lot sold above us$ 3.6 million
- 3 lots sold above us$ 1 million
- More than 800 registrants from all 5 continents

TOP TEN RESULTS

Reaffirming Christie's absolute leadership in the international watch area, Geneva's sale of Important Watches including A Connoisseur's Vision Part IV achieved a blockbuster total of US$ 26,331,962 (SFr. 23,427,013 / € 18,647,902), an increase of 25% over last May's auction total in Geneva.
This is one of the highest results ever realized in the history of Christie's watch sales and leads the auction series dedicated to the category in Geneva this spring.
The top watch of the sale is a unique 18k white gold cushion-shaped single button chronograph wristwatch manufactured in 1928 by Patek Philippe which sold for more than US$ 3.6 million, a new world action record for any simple chronograph watch.
Among the other sensational new world record prices set at Christie's in Geneva is a new top price for any Rolex wristwatch at auction, achieved for an oversized stainless steel split seconds chronograph wristwatch manufactured in 1942, which sold for US$ 1,163,340.
Aurel Bacs, International Head of Christie's Watch Department, commented:
"The international community of watch collectors responded enthusiastically to this premium selection of rare wristwatches and pocket watches hand-selected by Christie's team of specialists for our spring Geneva sale. Our results confirm once again that Christie's is the auction house of choice for both buyers and sellers of the rarest and most important watches.
Today's sale was characterized by b bidding from the international trade, but dominated by private collectors and museums around the world. Eight different buyers secured the top ten lots of the sale - a sign of the immense depth of interest in this category.
The sale was notable for its spectacular moments - for the first time ever at auction, a Rolex watch surpassed the $1 million mark with the ultra-rare reference 4113 selling to a private collector for over $1.1 million.
We were also touched by the spirited bidding that led to a b result for the Hillary Tenzing Explorer set, which soared above everyone's expectations to sell for US$ 104,532 with all proceeds directed to charity.
Lastly, Christie's is extremely proud to announce that with Part IV of 'A Connoisseur's Vision', this prestigious collection of Patek Philippe watches reached the highest total ever for any collection of fine wristwatches ever dispersed at auction, reaching over US$ 22 million. We are grateful to the consignor for having entrusted Christie's team of watch specialists with the sale of this landmark collection and are immensely satisfied to see that the market rewarded his knowledge and passion to such an extent".
Earlier in the sale, the G. Garvin Brown III Collection, Part I was 100% sold with most watches selling above high estimates. Two further installments of this exceptional collection will be offered as at Christie's Hong Kong sale of Important Watches on May 30 and at Christie's New York on June 15, 2011.

Rolex - Lady-Datejust

The new Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust in yellow or white ROLESOR exudes elegance and distinction. A harmonious marriage of colours and materials, this redesigned classic celebrates the timeless beauty of Rolex precision. The moment is precious, the future full of promise.

The infinite poetry of gold crystals
The GOLD CRYSTALS dial of the new Lady-Datejust is an exquisite homage to femininity. Obtained using an exclusive process that magnifies the natural crystal structure of the gold, it captures the light and gleams in an extraordinary play of glistening reflections. Infinite poetry, an invitation to dream. As if by magic, the crystals of the noble metal are revealed in all their splendour, creating incomparable depth that delights the eye. On one particular version of this model, the Rolex JUBILe motif appears in a secret and mysterious filigree, a door opening onto the imaginary. Each GOLD CRYSTALS dial is a work of art in itself, as unique as the lady who wears it.

Sublime in its delicate design, the version with the ivory coloured dial with a "sunbeam" guilloche pattern enchants with its clean lines, its extreme finesse, its infinite charm.

The elegance of diamonds
All the dials of this new interpretation of the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust are graced with 10 diamonds which add to the originality and the subtle radiance of the watch face.

Entirely gem-set, the bezel brings yet another touch of luxury and elegance. Its 46 brilliant-cut diamonds sparkle like so many invaluable treasures which, at each reading of the time, remind us of their timeless splendour.

A hymn to femininity
Feminine down to the last detail, an ode to charm and romanticism, the new Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust embodies absolute grace. It is nonetheless, like all Oyster watches, a waterproof chronometer equipped with a PERPETUAL rotor self-winding mechanical movement. To wear this gem of a watch is to live every moment intensely with the promise of a radiant future.

Rolex - Exploring the Explorer II

WORLDTEMPUS - 25 March 2011

Approximately 40 years ago Rolex introduced a distinct 40-millimeter watch with extreme sports in mind. "Cave explorers did not know if it was night or day," Justin Hogbin of Rolex smiles as he explains the orange 24-hour hand that originally indicated if it was noon or midnight when the Explorer II was launched in 1971.
A steel bezel indicating 24 hours supplemented the bright orange hand that Italian watch collectors have nicknamed "freccione" ("big arrow" in Italian). Freccione remains the loving nickname of the original reference 1655 Explorer II of 1971 to this day.

The Rolex Explorer II has never been the most popular of the otherwise much-loved sports watches by Rolex. It has however been the only model in the sports collection to offer a choice of black or white dial (not accounting for the Daytona range). However, the GMT and Submariner models seemed to overshadow the Explorer, which actually might be a thing of the past now.

Outshining the siblings
The new Rolex Explorer II ref. 216570 has grown in diameter from 40 to 42 millimeters. This growth is actually not very noticeable as both the hour markers and the hands have grown proportionally as well.
Even on the wrist the new Explorer II does not seem oversized compared to the current GMT or Submariner, both of which measure 40 millimeters in diameter. Au contraire: the new Explorer seems to have found its very comfortable place in the sports range of Rolex and will undoubtedly attract new-found attention, which this particular model has not enjoyed for 40 years.

Slightly new caliber
On the technical side, the movement does have a new name, Caliber 3187, however it does not differ much from the former caliber, which bears the name 3185, apart from the blue Parachrome hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers.
The 24-hour hand can be set independently to offer a secondary time zone read. This was not possible on the original model from 1971, but was introduced in 1985 when Reference 16550 took over from Reference 1655. This was the inspiration of this year's best looking new product from Rolex.

Of course, the new Explorer is fitted with the very comfortable updated Oyster bracelet with the comfortable Easylink extension. This five-millimeter extension, which is part of the bracelet clasp, creates a better fit when skin expands during the summer or in a warm climate.

Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Explorer II

Exploration is a state of mind. It takes courage, resolve and an unquenchable thirst for discovery to always seek to go higher, farther, where no one has trod before. To mountain tops. To the extremities of the poles. To the depths of the Earth. To the edge of volcanic craters.

The watch of adventure
The Oyster Perpetual Explorer model was born of this very state of mind. On 29 May 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Mount Everest in the course of an expedition equipped with Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches. The Explorer model was created in homage to this historic achievement - and to accompany other such achievements. Since then, Rolex has continuously tested and improved the precision, robustness and reliability of its watches in the most extreme environments on the planet. Pushing technical boundaries to accommodate ever more demanding human adventures.
From polar ice to the magma of the Earth
Another step forward was taken in 1971 with the creation of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II. With its highly legible dial, the introduction of the date, a 24-hour hand and a fixed graduated bezel, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II opened new horizons for exploration and became the new reference for professional adventurers and explorers of our planet. It proved itself on the wrist of volcanologist Haroun Tazieff and formed an essential part of the equipment of numerous polar expeditions. Its 24-hour display allows speleologists and polar explorers to distinguish day from night, making the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II an indispensable timekeeper.

Rebirth 40 years later
Exactly 40 years after its launch, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II has been updated to reach new heights of dependability. This new model combines technical innovations and a return to aesthetic sources. Its case, enlarged to 42 mm, houses the new calibre 3187 entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex. The movement includes the most recently patented technologies of the brand, such as the PARAFLLEX shock absorbers and the non-magnetic PARACHROM hairspring, ensuring unparalleled reliability and shock resistance. The bracelet is equipped with a new OYSTERLLOCK clasp with safety catch and the EASYLLINK comfort extension link. On the dial, the 24-hour hand has returned to the arrow shape and the orange colour of the original 1971 model. The hour and minute hands are broader and more legible, and, on the black-dial version, their black base blends with the black dial to create a "phantom effect". The luminescent sections of the hands seem to float over the dial - another nod to the historic model.
The "jumping" hour hand can be set independently, providing a GMT function (second time zone), in conjunction with the 24-hour hand and bezel.
With its extremely robust construction, its exceptional chronometric performance and its legendary reliability, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is the ideal instrument to push the boundaries of the world. And continually expand your own horizons.

Carl F. Bucherer - Shop in Shop at Zurich Airport

Carl F. Bucherer North America is proud to announce the opening of the Bucherer boutique located in the Zurich airport in Switzerland, on March 3, 2011.

The boutique will be the first of its kind offering Carl F. Bucherer, Bucherer Jewelry and an extensive collection of Rolex watches. These innovative brands come together for the first time ever to showcase some of their finest and most creative designs collectively.

Carl F. Bucherer and Rolex watches will be displayed in their respective Shop-in-Shop concepts, using their corporate architecture. This exposure for the brand, Carl F. Bucherer, will boost brand awareness around the globe. The store is located on level 1 of Zurich Airport's Airside Center.

Book - Rolex Collector Starter

WORLDTEMPUS - WATCHPRINT offer Rolex collector starter
1. Rolex Gallery de Giorgia et Guido Mondani - More details
2. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (Manual winding) Nb. 1 Pocket Expert serial by Osvaldo Patrizzi - More details
3. Rolex Oyster perpetual Cosmograph Daytona (Automatique) Nb. 2 Pocket Expert serial by Osvaldo Patrizzi - More details
*Free worldwide shipping charge for the 3 books together*

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COSC - An External Referee

WORLDTEMPUS - 2 November 2010

Few would argue that accuracy is an unimportant quality for a watch. However, every day consumers purchase mechanical watches that offer no basic assurance of horological precision. There are, however, several firms that capitalize on the services of the independent Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (COSC) as a guarantor of their watches' fundamental accuracy within -4 to +6 seconds per day.

Last year at the SIHH, Roger Dubuis, a firm that has famously employed the aesthetic standards of the Geneva Seal, announced that it would add a second layer of external oversight by also submitting movements to the COSC.
For Claude Vuillemez, the COO of Roger Dubuis, the appeal of COSC certification is obvious.
"We are a young manufacture," Vuillemez told Worldtempus, "and to get recognition we are looking to external referees like COSC on chronometry and Timelab on functionality to validate our technical expertise."
Breitling has cultivated its image around the fact that it is first and foremost a maker of chronometer-rated instrument watches. Indeed, every Breitling timepiece, quartz or mechanical, is also a COSC-certified chronometer.

"Like in aviation, where every instrument needs to be certified, COSC is an independent laboratory checking the precision of every single Breitling movement for 15 days in 5 positions and at 3 different temperatures," said Breitling executive vice president Jean-Paul Girardin.

Who's Who?
The COSC releases annual lists ranking the brands receiving the most certifications, with Rolex, Omega and Breitling perennially occupying the top three spots.
The global recession contributed to a shake-up of the list in 2009, with Ball Watch, a relatively small producer, breaking into the top ten (at number eight) for the first time in its history — with 15,455 certifications.
Jeffrey Hess, president of Ball Watch in North America, attributes his firm's rise not so much to any specific actions taken by the Swiss watch company with American roots, but to cutbacks in production at some competitors.
While 2009 was difficult for much of the industry, Hess says it was actually a fairly good year for Ball Watch — which led to no reduction in production of certified chronometers.
Ball Watch has another reason for its interest is chronometer certification. Historically, the firm submitted pocket watches to the U.S. Bureau of Standards as a measure intended to ensure the accuracy of its famous railroad chronometers. These were the precise timekeepers used by railroad engineers to avoid potentially disastrous collisions. Hess sees the modern COSC as an extension of this legacy.

At the very least, a modern COSC-certified wristwatch will help its wearer make his or her train on time — as Webster C. Ball originally intended.

Rolex - Basel 2010

WORLDTEMPUS - 20 March 2010
It could have been an uneasy herd of impatient fans prior to a rock concert about to start for onlookers that did not have an interest in horology, but just happened to stroll by Hall 1 in Basel. However the impatient herds of bloggers, collectors and journalists did not wait for a big-ticket name in the music business to go on stage, but for a ditto in Swiss horology, Rolex, to reveal its novelties.
Every year watch related websites start discussing what the leader of Swiss watch making might introduce of novelties once the doors open. Yet nobody knows for sure, since Rolex is as secretive with their novelties as their Oyster-cases are waterproof.

This year, however, the introduction of a steel Submariner with maxi case and ceramic bezel insert was not much of a surprise. Such is the evolution of Rolex. Gold first, then steel/gold and now steel. The "aaaaahhhh" reaction did arise though, when the first impatient souls reached the mirror polished exhibition windows on Wednesday March 17th, when Baselworld opened its doors. The surprise reaction was due to a green dial and ditto ceramic bezel version of the Submariner of steel that paired up next to the black version at Rolex's impressive stand.

Green may not be a colour embraced as joyfully by everyone as the Irish on St. Patrick's Day. This could be why Rolex decided to introduced a 39 millimetres version of what could easily be considered as one of the best looking models of all time, the legendary Explorer. A watch famed by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay's Mt. Everest exhibition in 1953. Both of them wore Rolex Oyster Perpetuals, creating yet another achievement for the Swiss watch company who used the world as a laboratory to test its watches under real conditions, since the young Mercedes Gleitze swam across the English Channel, wearing a Rolex Oyster, in 1927.

The clean military look of the Explorer has not changed. But the new size of 39 millimetre - which is three millimetre bigger that the earlier version, ref. 114720 - is a perfect reason to rediscover a watch that has too long been considered too small for men and too masculine for women. This said, many women might just embrace this new size Explorer, as big watches are still popular on female wrists.

Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date

The quintessential divers' watch, the absolute reference in its genre, the Submariner has expanded its horizons far beyond the element of its birth in 1953, while denying nothing of its aquatic origins.
At home in the depths of the oceans, a universe in which it remains the basic instrument of every diver, it long ago conquered terra firma, as the watch of action.
Waterproof to 100, 200, then 300 metres as it successively evolved since its launch, the Submariner has always been the symbol of Rolex's supremacy in waterproofness.

New features
Timeless and impervious to the elements, it is today available in a steel version sporting new features. Its 40 mm case in 904L steel, synonymous with robustness, waterproofness and corrosion resistance, boasts a new rotatable bezel fitted with a practically scratchproof black Cerachrominsert — or green for themodel with the green dial — with platinum graduations.
Penumbra and soft light
As much in its element in the penumbra of the ocean floor as in the soft light of sophistication, this new Submariner Date offers exceptional legibility thanks to hour markers and hands coated with luminescent Chromalight. Its mechanical movement equipped with a Perpetual rotor and a Parachrom hairspring pledges increased chronometric precision and reliability. Its unidirectional rotatable graduated bezel allows the safe reading of dive time.

A power of seduction that never goes out of style
This new model is no stranger to comfort. The Rolex Glidelock clasp allows for fine adjustments of the bracelet length. On land as at sea, watch and wearer are bound by the emotional charge deriving from the Submariner's irresistible power of seduction.

REFERENCE (CASE / BRACELET): 116610 LN / 97200
Case
Diameter: 40 mm
Material: 904L steel
Bezel: unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated
with black Cerachrom insert, platinum graduations
Winding crown: Triplock
shoulders to protect the crown
Crystal: sapphire, Cyclops lens with anti-reflective coating
Waterproofness: 300 m (1,000 ft)
Movement
Calibre: 3135
Self-winding: Perpetual rotor
Date: instantaneous change and rapid setting
Oscillator: frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour)
Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil
Precision: COSC-certified chronometer
Power reserve: ~48 hours
Dial
Hour markers: luminescent Chromalight
Hands: luminescent Chromalight
Bracelet
Material: 904L steel
Type: Oyster
Clasp: Rolex Glidelock

Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Explorer

So many attempts were necessary before Everest was finally conquered. It was 29 May 1953 and the heroes of the day, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay, were wearing Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches. So many expeditions all seeking to achieve a proverbially impossible dream, motivated by the simple desire to meet a challenge: "Because it's there…"
In praise of perseverance
The direct descendent of this fascinating chapter of human adventure, the Explorer persists in expressing man's irrepressible need for achievement. It continues to precisely embody perseverance, experience and creativity, and celebrate so strikingly the relationships between technical developments, experience in the field, thought and action.

The world as a test laboratory
The Explorer is the incarnation of the privileged relationship that has always existed between Rolex and the outside world. Since the late 1920s, Rolex has been using the world as a laboratory to test its watches under real conditions. In this pioneering spirit, it equipped numerous Himalayan expeditions whose observations have had a direct impact on product development.
A 39 mm case
Faithful to its heritage and unique identity, the new Oyster Perpetual Explorer exemplifies that strength in today's world, imparting a new elan to the sober and elegant lines which have long established it as an icon. Crafted from a block of 904L steel with exceptional anti-corrosion properties, its slightly larger 39 mm case offers a bolder look and added comfort for the wearer.

New heights in precision
Equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement featuring a Perpetual rotor, a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers, it reaches new heights of chronometric precision and resistance to extreme conditions. A reliable and robust timekeeping instrument.

Christie's - Geneva auction Top Ten

"With a total of SFr. 19,032,388, nearly twice its pre-sale low estimate, the Geneva Important Watches Sale achieved the highest result for any watch auction offered in 2009 worldwide, selling 97% by value and 94% by lot.

In a thrilling atmosphere, almost 900 bidders from 5 continents competed enthusiastically in the room, as well as on Christie's Live and by telephone. The extraordinary performance of this Christie's sale confirms the undisputed leadership of the company in Geneva and in the international Watch market.

A Connoisseur's Vision, a collection of ten Patek Philippe watches was 100% sold, totaling SFr.5,835,600 and nearly doubling its pre-sale low-estimate. Nine world record prices have been achieved for numerous models manufactured by Rolex and Patek Philippe.

Top Ten

Lot 84 - Patek Philippe. An 18K gold perpetual calendar wristwatch, ref. 1526
Estimate: SFr. 1,000,000-1,500,000
Purchase Price: SFr. 2,400,000 ($ 2,773,065, € 1,847,781)
Buyer: Swiss Private Museum
Lot 159 - Patek Philippe. An 18K gold single button chronograph wristwatch, 1924
Estimate: SFr. 200,000-300,000
Purchase Price: SFr. 939,000 ($ 934,305, € 622,557)
Buyer: Swiss Private Museum
Lot 161 - Patek Philippe. A platinum wristwatch, ref. 3448/100, with extra dial
Estimate: SFr. 500,000-800,000
Purchase Price: SFr. 783,000 ($ 779,085, € 519,129)
Buyer: Swiss Private
Lot 219 - Patek Philippe. An 18K pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch, ref. 2438/1
Estimate: SFr. 500,000-800,000
Purchase Price: SFr. 711,000 ($ 707,445, € 471,393)
Buyer: Swiss Private
Lot 335 - Patek Philippe. An 18K gold wristwatch, black enamel numerals, ref. 1579
Estimate: SFr. 300,000-500,000
Purchase Price: SFr. 675,000
$ 671,625
€ 447,525
Buyer: American Private
Lot 47 - Rolex. An 18K pink gold wristwatch, ref. 6062, with gold bracelet
Estimate: SFr. 250,000-350,000
Purchase Price: SFr. 597,000
$ 594,015
€ 395,811
Buyer: European Collector
Lot 380 - Patek Philippe. A stainless steel wristwatch, ref. 1579
Estimate: SFr. 400,000-600,000
Purchase Price: SFr. 591,000 ($ 588,045, € 391,833)
Buyer: Asian Private
Lot 218 - Patek Philippe. An 18K pink gold wristwatch, ref. 1436
Estimate: SFr. 350,000-550,000
Purchase Price: SFr. 507,000 ($ 504,465, € 336,141)
Buyer: Swiss Private
Lot 85 - Patek Philippe. A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch, ref. 1463
Estimate: SFr. 300,000-500,000
Purchase Price: SFr. 459,000 ($ 456,705, € 304,317)
Buyer: European Private
Lot 160 - Patek Philippe. An 18K gold wristwatch, ref. 2499/100
Estimate: SFr. 250,000-350,000
Purchase Price: SFr. 435,000 ($ 432,825, € 288,405
Buyer: American Private

Neo-Vintage Watches - Hard to fix a price

26th October 2009

In the world of watch collecting there are two definitive categories: the vintage watches, typically described as those older than 20 years, and the modern watches, those that are within the first decade of their life.
Sitting between vintage and modern exists a small group of collectible "neo-vintage" watches that hover around the 15-20 year mark. It is around this age that collectors first start to identify the pieces that will one day become classics. It was in the late 1980s, just short of twenty years after its release, that a Rolex Cosmograph with peculiar registers started to gain momentum as a collectable. Now the Paul Newman Daytona sits atop the world of valuable and collectable sport watches.
The values of Newman Daytonas today range from $30,000 all the way up to $100,000 depending on reference number, condition, and color scheme. We tend to think that we know all there is to know about this particular piece, and so values are easily obtained.
What about today's neo-vintage collectibles though? The ones that are just now coming into the spotlight as the rare birds and grail watches of future generations. Just what are they, why are they poised to climb, and why do we know so little about them?

Let's take one of the few neo-vintage that has already raised a few eyebrows, although it remains relatively under the radar except with a few die-hard collectors; the Rolex Explorer I "Blackout". Since the Explorer's inception over 50 years ago, the vast majority have been made with a black face and white markers, whether applied or painted on the dial itself. For what some experts claim is as little as 6 months, Rolex introduced an instance of the Explorer where the infamous 3, 6, and 9 were actually filled with black instead of white.
Originally thought to exist only in E serial numbers and with silver print on the dial, we now know that the production also included later X serial Explorers with white print on the dial. The Blackout Rolexes are rare, certainly, in fact some call it the rarest sapphire crystal Rolex to date. What is not so certain is the value of this neo-vintage oddity.
One year ago, in October of 2008, Antiquorum recorded a sale of a Rolex Reference 14270 Blackout at $12,000 US. Five months later, in Antiquorum's March 2009 auction, one sold for just over $5000, and after another five months, one sold again at just above $5000 via Antiquorum. Economic conditions aside, that is a dramatic decrease in value of a rare watch in one year's time. But did the value really decrease?

While impossible to dispute that these watches did sell for less than half of the price of less than a year ago, many sellers continue to believe the Blackout is worth close to, if not well into five figures. Running a quick scan of dealers around the world, the price range of these Rolex Blackouts is astonishing. From as low as $4500 from private sellers (watch alone) to as high as $16,000 from well known European dealers (NOS, Box & Papers), we were able to track down five Blackout Explorers, in excellent or mint condition, with boxes and papers, with an average price of $10,800. Over $10,000 for a Rolex Explorer I from the 1990s, we must be crazy. Or are we?
Charles Tearle, a Director at Antiquorum USA says "In recent years we have seen transitional variations that exist in relatively modern wristwatches, such as the Rolex Explorer I "Blackout", matte dial submariners, and the transitional IWC big pilots, have speculative presence on the secondary market." But does this mean that these models are worth up to three to four times what a traditional model sells for? Things are still unclear; Tearle adds "relatively little is known about quantities produced, but as we learn more, I believe the market value of these transitional pieces will become more definitive."
While the debate over the value of these rare Rolex "Blackouts" will likely continue on, this raises a much larger issue. How are we to assess the value neo-vintage watches if experts can't seem to agree and with such a dramatic variance in auction prices? Or, maybe this isn't an issue at all, but rather one of the reasons that watch collecting continues to gain momentum as a global passion. The question now becomes, we know the Rolex Blackout Explorer is something special, but what else is out there and when will we realize it?

Exhibition - Counterfeit Rolex with the head of Saddam Hussein

30 juillet 2009

VOIR LA GALERIE-PHOTOS

La galerie du Jeu de Paume a Paris propose actuellement et jusqu'au 27 septembre une exposition intitulee « Planete Parr. La collection de Martin Parr ». Organisee par la Haus der Kunst a Munich, en collaboration avec le Jeu de Paume, elle presente pour la premiere fois la riche collection de livres photographiques et de photos de Martin Parr, accompagnee d'une partie de sa collection d'objets heteroclites, ainsi que de quelques-uns de ses travaux recents, notamment les series «Luxury» et «Small World». Ce photographe, membre de la fameuse agence Magnum, se presente lui-même comme un « collectionneur, un editeur et un photographe », et joue ironiquement sur le cliche de l'Anglais extravagant aimant a accumuler toutes sortes d'objets divers.
Ben Laden en montre de poche
Outre le plus grand paquet de chips du monde, des theieres a la gloire de Margaret Thatcher ou un slip orne du portrait de Barack Obama, le sieur Parr a recolte une incroyable serie de garde-temps. Montres-bracelets, montres de poche, horloges, reveils, usurpant ou non le logo d'une marque celebre ou le fameux Swiss made, tous ont pour point commun de celebrer sur leur cadran une personne ou un evenement historique. Le visiteur pourra ainsi admirer des reveils commemorant les exploits de Gagarine ou divers modeles aux couleurs de Mao, de Staline ou même de Barack Obama. Certaines de ces tocantes meritent sans conteste la palme de l'originalite, comme cette montre de poche a l'effigie de Ben Laden ou cette horloge chinoise en forme de raquette de ping-pong. Une vitrine entiere est consacree aux montres a l'effigie de Saddam Hussein. Certaines, provenant vraisemblablement d'Irak, sont tout a sa gloire. D'autres, conçues apres le 11 septembre, vehiculent le propos inverse, notamment celle sur laquelle un montage photographique represente un corps de rongeur surmonte de la tête de Saddam et de ce slogan : « captured like a rat » ! La montre, objet de propagande par excellence qui permet d'afficher son opinion dans cette vitrine miniature qu'est son cadran, provient ainsi des deux côtes de l'histoire. Il en va de même pour les tapis de priere musulmans ornes des tours jumelles percutees par les avions et estampilles « made in Afghanistan » qui sont ici exposes face a des bibelots aux couleurs de l'aigle americain exaltant les slogans va-t-en-guerre de l'ere Bush.

Ironie britannique
Le dialogue entre photographies et objets nous tend ainsi un miroir de notre epoque, revelant les tendances de nos modes de vie contemporains. Comme le dit Martin Parr lui-même, « Ce travail ressemble a une epitaphe pour une periode sur le point de s'achever, faite de croissance excessive, de parade et de luxe ostentatoire. C'est une opportunite de jeter un regard retrospectif sur cette periode de nos vies. » Un regard qui n'oublie pas neanmoins la distance et l'ironie « so british » !
www.jeudepaume.org
www.martinparr.com

Chronicle - Only one watch!

22 June 2009
- www.fratellowatches.com
I don't consider myself a collector of watches, I just 'collect' what I will actually be wearing. I had a modest collection of new & vintage Omega watches in the past, but I traded most of them for watches that would actually see some daylight every now and then instead of the inside of a safe.
For me, this results in buying 'iconic' watches most of the time. True classics in terms of design, movement, history or a combination of all these aspects. For example, these icons include the Omega Speedmaster Professional, Rolex GMT-Master and (recently added) the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Michael Balfour wrote a nice book about iconic timepieces called ' Cult Watches'. Of course, some people may think differently on what an iconic timepiece may be. I can imagine that there are watch aficionados who consider an Ikepod Cunningham or a Bell & Ross BR01 to be cult watches as well.

Anyway, in the 10 years I have been buying or collecting timepieces, I always envied the people that just have one watch. Like the guy in the Patek Philippe advertisements, having a nice Patek Nautilus ref. 5711/1A, wear it almost a life time and then pass it on to the next generation (or someone else you love or care for). And in the beginning, I actually thought that an Omega Constellation would be my perfect "only watch". Or my Speedmaster Professional. Or my Rolex Sea-Dweller. Although I was able to wear a timepieces for months in a row, it turned out that I kept rotating timepieces from my collection (or buying new/other ones).

On some of the online watch forums, contributors tend to write about their latest acquisition as being their exit watch. By exit watch, they mean that they finally found their "only watch". Of course, after a while you see the same contributors adding a message that they bought something else or something new. To quote Michael Corleone in The Godfather part III, "Just when I thought I was out... they pull me back in."
Let me tell you this: There is no exit watch. At least, not for us watch addicts. An Omega Speedmaster Professional could be a perfect only watch. Or a Rolex GMT-Master. Or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. For a lot of people, they probably are. But we are spoiled. We complain about having no date on a Speedmaster Professional, the Royal Oak being a scratch magnet, the GMT-Master for not being as water resistant as a Sea-Dweller. It is rubbish. Normal people probably don't even come up with these lame excuses.
Would finding a new passion be a solution (or an excuse to only have one watch)? I guess not, because as soon as the word 'collect' comes in, you are lost… It doesn't matter what the subject will be.

Rolex - L'Oyster Perpetual Datejust II Rolesor

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Subtly redesigned over time, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust Rolesor, archetype of timeless luxury, embraces all the latest watchmaking innovations to meet the most demanding technological requirements.
The history of this must-have masterpiece of contemporary watchmaking is rooted in the rich heritage of Rolex timepieces. It is the fruit of the Oyster, the first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex in 1926. The movement of the watch receives its energy from the Perpetual rotor, the first self-winding mechanism with a free rotor, created in 1931. The Datejust made its debut in 1945, its name inspired by the date displayed in a window on the watch dial.
The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Rolesor is the hallmark of the Rolex brand. Precise, waterproof, self-winding, this officially-certified Swiss chronometer with date display is crafted with only the noblest of materials and assembled with the greatest of care.

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