Rolex Automatic Watch Imitation, Wholesale Cheap Rolex Automatic Watches

Rolex Daytona 6241 Paul Newman (6241 PN)

I bought this watch for my father and he loves it.

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Chad Lutzke, From Uk Colnbrook

Rolex Sky-Dweller Everose Sundust (326935-0004)

Just like the described, so beautiful Rolex, Tks!

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Ben l, From USA Ofallon,mo.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Blue Dial Stainless Steel Automatic Men's Watch 114300BLSO

I like this watch I think it''s very pretty. It looks beautiful on the hand I wore it the same day I receive it and receive five compliment.

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Bethany D, From USA Laguna Beach

Sam Hines will be heading the global team of Watch Specialists from Phillips' recently opened Asian Headquarters in the Landmark Building in Hong Kong.

With twenty years' experience in the auction world, Sam has held executive positions in New York and in Asia since 2008, spearheading many ground-breaking sales of Important Watches throughout the globe. In 2013 he was appointed International Co-Head of the Watches Department at another auction house, which, throughout his time, was world-leading in the category of important watches and wristwatches.

From Hong Kong Sam will lead the existing team of International Watch Specialists in Geneva, London and New York with Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo continuing to work exclusively with the department as Senior Consultants. Sam will work with the Watches Team on the contents of the auctions in the fall season including the 8 November sale in Geneva and the inaugural Hong Kong sale on 1 December.

Highlights from Sam Hines' career to date include the discovery and sale of two previously unknown pocket watches from the third generation of James Ward Packard, achieving $2.7m at auction in 2011, as well as curating the sale of Asia's most expensive horological object; a pair of Singing Bird Pistols which sold for $5.8m. Sam is also responsible for numerous auction records for some of the world's most important wristwatches and watches, pocket watches and automata, including the sale of the only known Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000 for $3.5m, a Rolex cloisonne enamel wristwatch for $1m and two sets of the Patek Philippe reference 5004 for $3.75m.

When we arrive at the Polo Club Saint-Tropez, Pablo Mac Donough, casually clad in jeans and sneakers, greets us with Spanish-infused English. He confirms that there is nothing surprising about that, but also that things could just as well have gone the other way: until his grandfather's time, and as his name betrays, the Mac Donoughs were a completely Irish family whose members "only inter-married amongst themselves". For the past two generations, however, Argentinian blood has been mingled with these purebred Irish. And in Pablo, the family now has a new champion in the polo world.

King of the media and close friends
Richard Mille's ambassador strategy may be slightly bewildering, given a proven ability to establish a presence at the very top of disciplines that attract intense media coverage: sailing, golf, tennis, cars. It also however encompasses a number of lesser-known talents.
Thus, in total contrast to ultra-publicised Rafael Nadal and his b development in the design of his "RMs", Pablo Mac Donough is completely unknown to the public and admits he "did not in any way take part in the development" of his RM 05. He even adds with a smile: "I am a polo player, not a watchmaker". At the opposite end of the spectrum to the slightly controversial role played by Natalie Portman, the least involved of the brand friends, one might well mention Michelle Yeoh, the wife of Jean Todt, who is also a company ambassador! Clearly an example of shared family tastes. Personal preferences thus remain the predominant factor in these choices, although the business side of things is clearly significant: Richard Mille invests 2.5 % of its turnover in its ambassadors, meaning around 4.5 million euros.

A family affair
Richard Mille remains bly driven by the automobile world, to which the brand is primarily committed, through associations with Sebastien Loeb, Jean Todt, the Princesses Prestige Rally, Le Mans, Lotus F1, Felipe Massa and Romain Grosjean to name but a few. This passion for mechanics is not so much fuelled by the brand as by the man, Richard Mille himself, who is car crazy. The company's ambassador model therefore relies on his personal friendships. Nevertheless, even as the brand has developed, Richard Mille has retained these essentially friendly ties with ambassadors.

Since 2012, Pablo Mac Donough has also embodied this esprit de corps. "Richard and I met through a mutual friend who is also a very good Argentinian player" explains the champion. If that was the case, why did the relationship not develop with this friend rather than with Mac Donough?"."Because I am professional and he is amateur. For Richard, that was what made the difference."
And for the Argentinian rider as well it would appear - because in his day, he was also widely sought-after, notably by Rolex with whom he still enjoys an excellent relationship, thanks to his wife who was an employee. One might well also imagine him being approached Jaeger-LeCoultre whose Reverso has embodied the polo spirit for 85 years. Fate however smiled on Richard Mille and the idea proved immediately worthwhile in that Mac Donough's season encompasses quarter-years divided between Dubai, England and Argentina - thus ensuring multiple representations at close quarters on these markets targeted by the brand.

Mutual trust
At the end of the day, discretion is a quality that Richard Mille shares with polo. "I am not as well- known as Rafael Nadal and polo is not as popular as tennis, but Richard Mille is also relatively less known than some brands. We understand each other. I like not being just a number in a big commercial machine" says Pablo Mac Donough.
Under the rays of the setting sun over the Polo Club Saint-Tropez, one could almost forget to talk about his RM 053 Tourbillon. "Oh, there's not much to say," says Pablo Mac Donough. "In the very beginning, three years ago, I lost a watch hand. Richard's team put it back. Since then nothing has ever gone wrong and I wear it every day." That has to be the best possible 'customer testimonial… from a friend.

Renowned watch expert Paul Maudsley has joined Phillips as International Specialist, Director of the London Watches Department. He is credited with transforming the UK watch market and has handled over 20,000 watches in his 16-year career, which equates to one and a half watches every working hour of every working day over that period.

Maudsley has been collecting watches from the age of 13 and has thus developed a love and broad knowledge of horology. Organising watch auctions on three continents, Paul has been responsible for sourcing some of the finest quality timepieces in the world. He has a well-known passion for Rolex sports watches and has a great knowledge of the many different models and variations produced, setting numerous records for such pieces at auction.

Aurel Bacs, senior consultant says: "We warmly welcome Paul Maudsley to the team and look forward to working with him on the lead up to our sales this fall on 7 and 8 November in Geneva and our inaugural watch auction in Hong Kong taking place on 1 December. Our existing team of passionate specialists has already demonstrated their strength with the outstanding results from the May auctions in Geneva and will further benefit from Paul's knowledge and expertise."

Paul joins Phillips international team of Watch Specialists including Kate Lacey, Specialist based in London, Paul Boutros, International Strategy Advisor in New York and Jill Chen, Business Development Director, based in Phillips' Hong Kong office which opens in August.

Our Venezuelan contributor Rafael Fernandez was astonished at the efficiency of the Swiss customs when he arrived at Zurich airport to cover Baselworld. He and his wife were politely screened at the airport and asked whether they were carrying any watches. Like any self-respecting watch journalist, Rafael had brought with him a small collection to last him through the show, which he offered for inspection. He was impressed when the customs official could instantly tell from the serial number of his Rolex that it had indeed been shipped originally to his home country of Venezuela.

Last week I discovered that this highly knowledgeable "customs inspector" was in fact one of the Swiss Watchmaking Industry Federation's team of roving experts, who were stationed at the cargo and passenger terminals at Basel and Zurich airports and prowling the halls of Baselworld during the show, looking for violations of the Swiss Made label, misleading customs declarations and breaches of trademark law. With the kind permission of the Federation Horlogere we have just reproduced the detailed report on this highly coordinated surveillance operation.

We also delve behind the scenes of another story this week, as Olivier Muller reveals the secret history of Carl F. Bucherer's Patravi TravelTec model, which ultimately led to the brand becoming a genuine manufacture. The leading figures of the industry continue to share their thoughts with WorldTempus. After today's profile of Longines CEO Walter von Känel, Bulgari's Guido Terreni and Romain Gauthier take the floor later on this week.

The vintage watch market has been experiencing a boom over the past few years. With a multiplication in the number of distribution channels for vintage watches, which can now be purchased at auctions, from specialist dealers or on the Internet, the number of scams has increased proportionately. "The vintage watch business is a jungle, especially on the Internet," says Laurent Ponti, a watch dealer who has been established in Geneva for 13 years. It's a jungle from which you can nevertheless emerge unscathed, with a nice watch on your wrist, on one condition: you respect a few basic principles.

Pleasure above all

There is no point trying to make a good investment regardless. Any respectable dealer will advise you to buy something that you like. "We can never guarantee that a watch that a customer buys will increase in value," Laurent Ponti stresses. Taking the time to determine your own needs and desires is also important, according to Vanessa Chicha, co-founder with her husband Fabien of Iconeek, a website with a showroom in Geneva that specialises in second-hand, vintage and modern watches. "Buying a watch just for the sake of it is pointless. There needs to be an impulse, even if it has to be thought out." Aside from legendary collectors' models such as the Rolex Daytona, the Omega Speedmaster, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso or any Patek Philippe, it is not always easy to navigate your way around a mind-boggling selection of vintage watches. Getting advice from someone in the business, or an expert, is therefore undoubtedly a good idea. "A bit of surfing on the Internet may help you to narrow things down," says Vanessa Chicha, pointing out at the same time that you need to be careful not to be duped by the goods on offer.

The dangers of buying on the Internet
"Before buying a watch, people often say that you need to buy the dealer. In other words, know who you are dealing with." Laurent Ponti advises us to make sure we are well informed about the seller. If he has a storefront, his reputation will often precede him. If it is an online sale, you must be doubly cautious and above all take the time to communicate in detail with the seller. Another misconception that you are bly advised to forget about: that of doing the deal of the century. "There are no good deals on the Internet," Laurent Ponti assures us. In other words, beware of prices that are too tempting to be true. "There are many scams."

Be extra-careful with details

Whether you are buying from a shop or on the Internet, if the seller appears to be a trustworthy person you still need to pay attention to some important elements. Ideally, the watch should come with its original paperwork. This is generally the case for younger watches. For older watches, for which paperwork may have disappeared, we bly recommend that you ask for a valuation. And it is essential to get an invoice from the seller. If the watch is offered for sale by a professional dealer, he will usually check the serial number beforehand. His good relationship with the brands will also allow him to authenticate certain models. But be careful with some details: "Very often dials have been cleaned up," notes Vanessa Chicha. Just changing a single hand could change the watch's value completely. Although collectors may not fall into such traps, the humble watch lover who is drawn in by an attractive price - between 10% and 50% below the cost of a new watch - could very easily have his fingers burned. Keep an eye on the market, take your time and get help… This is the best way to avoid being conned.
 

Exuding a free-spirited, independent, impetuous, innovative, welcoming, soft, comfortable and elegant aura for the past 25 years, the SIHH certainly qualifi es for a number of adjectives typically associated with the fair sex. The SIHH will be celebrating its quarter- century in January 2015, and like countless other women, it has left an indelible imprint on the measurement of time.

Women have constantly and variously served as the poet's secret muse, the artist's precious inspiration, the politician's wise advisor or the musician's perceptive shadow. They have occupied a prime role in History, whether in the spotlight or in the background, consistently exercising authentic infl uence, whether deliberately or not. Nor should one forget that women have been, still are and always will be the great civilizing power in the world! Horology is no exception to the rule and its history has been regularly punctuated by women. The latter notably inspired wristwatches and were the fi rst to wear them : from Elizabeth I of England to the dainty jewelry models of the Directory and Empire periods, right the way through to Mercedes Gleitze who swam across the channel with a Rolex Oyster watch on her wrist.

Today, if "woman is the future of man" as the French poet Aragon famously proclaimed in 1952, women's watches are undoubtedly the future of the watch itself. 25 years ago, in taking on the seemingly crazy challenge of creating the fi rst show dedicated to Fine Watchmaking in Geneva, the cradle of the industry, the SIHH endowed Haute Horlogerie with its authentically global dimension. Ever since, year after year, it has been setting the tone for watch trends, catalyzing ceaselessly renewed and perpetuated innovations, expertise and skills. It is endowed with a unique ability to unite, to share, to love and to spread the love. Because the SIHH is feminine to the core !
Fabienne Lupo
Chairwoman and Managing Director of the SIHH

Former Arsenal striker and England international Ian Wright was the guest of honour on the Jeanrichard stand at SalonQP for the launch of the brand's new limited-edition Arsenal Terrascope chronograph in carbon fibre.

He may not have been the most obvious choice to line-up alongside the brand's CEO Bruno Grande, since he is not a member of the Arsenal squad and thus has no direct ties with the brand. In fact, his relationship with Jeanrichard came about more by chance.

"We were contacted by Ian Wright because he wanted to see the watches," explained Bruno Grande. "We don't have a direct association with him (we couldn't afford it), so he's a genuine friend of the brand and we have plenty more celebrities gravitating around the brand thanks to Arsenal." 

After patiently posing for photographs with visitors to SalonQP, Ian Wright corroborated this story for WorldTempus. "A business colleague of mine told me about Bruno and what he was doing. I hear about this kind of thing all the time but when I finally sat down with him and listened to him speaking about the watches I could tell that he was as passionate about the watches as I am about football. The way he talked about the watches and the history dating back to 1681 was fascinating. And it came at a time when I was getting back into watches so I was in the market and I wasn't sure what to get. I like the fact that it's classy and understated, and because I wear it on my right hand, everybody notices it."

The reason the former Arsenal forward was "in the market" was a particularly harrowing aggravated burglary at his home over the summer, during which his wife was held at knifepoint while his children were upstairs. Wright himself was in Brazil commentating on the World Cup for UK television and had to fly home to comfort his family. Apart from the emotional stress of the event, one of the physical losses he suffered was the theft of his entire watch collection, which included connoisseur models from the likes of Patek Philippe and Rolex. The unfortunate event has also led to a change in this collector's philosophy about watches.

"It's almost like starting again," he said. "I'm most probably going to end up with a few Jeanrichard watches and I will probably buy the one they just launched. But what I will do now is buy watches to wear rather than collect. I still have a 1969 Paul Newman Rolex (the thieves didn't get that one because it was being repaired at Rolex) and I'm going to start wearing it."

The new limited-edition model is the first chronograph in the Jeanrichard Terrascope line and comes with a new case in single-ply carbon, which has a uni-directional finish similar to brushing, even though the case undergoes no separate finishing after it is machined. It comes with the signature Jeanrichard "rubbergator" strap (rubber that is stamped to resemble alligator leather) with red stitching and, of course, the cannon of the Gunners as the small seconds counter. This strictly limited edition, of which only 50 will be produced, comes complete with a certificate of authenticity signed by three players from the current Arsenal squad, as well as - unusually - a 30cm diameter Jeanrichard wall clock.

But why does Ian Wright prefer Jeanrichard in particular, when as a football pundit travelling around the world to cover the major soccer events he gets to experience the marketing activities of various watch brands, as well as compare tastes with his peers?
"Footballers went through a phase of wearing massive watches," he explains, "which I call the silly phase. But what you see now is that they are going more for the elegant pieces, which is what I have always thought was synonymous with watches."

WordTempus: What sets Ball watches apart from the competition?

Daniel Alioth: Ball Watch has always been linked to the history of railways and the establishment of railroad standard time but nowadays we communicate around the kind of exploration that was first made possible by the railways connecting the world.
If you take a piece such as the one Olivier Muller tested on his trip, you can see that it is extremely robust, shock-resistant and has very masculine qualities. We are not afraid of saying that we have a collection that is 95 per cent masculine.
Unlike many brands who work exclusively on developing the movement, we work on both the interior and the exterior, aiming to improve precision by eliminating the impact of factors that can affect it, such as shocks and magnetism. We have a reputation for working a lot on cases. If we consider the two major new launches this year, the Slide Chronograph and the Magneto S, both have patented improvements to the case.

Tell us more about the new Magneto S…
With the Magneto we worked on the anti-magnetic properties of the case. We did not want to enter the titanic battle in which Omega and Rolex are already engaged and we felt that the customer is already a little lost when we start to talk about resistance to magnetic fields (or even sometimes about water resistance). We like to remain down to earth and honest.
The concept of an anti-magnetic watch is not something new. The Rolex Milgauss has been around for a decade, I think. What we wanted to do was introduce a more playful element to it. The idea behind the Magneto S was for the customer to understand the concept of anti-magnetism by playing with the watch.

What are the important markets for Ball Watch Co.?
Asia is by far our biggest market, with the USA in second place. But we have done things a little differently. A lot of brands started with their Swiss Made philosophy and initially targeted Europe, then expanded to Asia and the USA. We are an American brand but with a philosophy that remains very Swiss. So the idea was to redevelop the brand in the USA and take a bet on Asia long before other brands.
We have been present in Asia since the early 2000s so for us it is an established market. It may sound surprising, but our investment to develop the brand is now being made in Europe, Russia and the Middle East.

And what about the local market in Mexico?
As you may have seen the level of watchmaking knowledge here is very high. But there is also an important aspect related to notoriety. Customers have a high purchasing power and not only do they want something different, they often want something that meets their needs for a mechanical watch but is perhaps not as well known. I had a customer here who purchased a watch from me because it was less well-known than some of the bigger brands and he was worried that if he wore one of the more recognizable brands he would be exposing himself to robbers.

What can we expect from Ball Watch Co. over the next twelve months?
This year we worked on anti-shock and anti-magnetism. I think next year we will continue along these lines but perhaps adding other functions. We will also work on reducing the size of some of our robust watches and adding the Magneto function to a chronograph, for example.

The Phillips Watch Department, based in Geneva, will partner with the firm of Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo. Bacs & Russo, specialising in Fine Collectors Watches, has been established in response to the ever-increasing need for collectors around the world to easily access scholarship, guidance and quality across the board.

The department brings together many prominent figures from the watch industry, including Nathalie Monbaron in Geneva, who will be supported by Virginie Liatard. Paul Boutros has been appointed as strategy consultant and will be Phillips' main representative in New York office.

Phillips will roll out its international Watch auction calendar with two inaugural evening sales taking place in Geneva in May 2015. The first will be a high profile various owners evening sale dedicated to the finest collectors' pieces, spanning two centuries of watchmaking of unique quality, rarity and condition. The accompanying sale will be dedicated to one of the world's most famous wristwatches: the Rolex Day-Date. Phillips will partner with Pucci Papaleo, one of the most eminent scholars in the world of Rolex collector's watches. The inaugural watch auctions will take place in Geneva on Saturday, 9 May at 7PM and Sunday, 10 May at 7PM.

In the following seasons, the department plans to expand its sales calendar around the world, organising sales in flagship premises in London, New York and soon in Hong Kong.

Integral to the department will be a brokerage, based in Geneva, specialising in the highest level of private sales, assisting collectors around the globe outside of the auction season.

Under the guidance of Aurel Bacs, the Phillips Watch Department aims to lead the market thanks to its team of specialists' second-to-none outreach within the collecting community and its uncompromising approach to quality.

On behalf of Bacs & Russo, Aurel Bacs says: "We are immensely excited to be asked to partner with Phillips as their consultants and to work with a department built from scratch. It is a privilege and a dream come true to realize a concept that Livia and I believe should be the answer to today's ever increasing market, composed of savvy and passionate collectors. It is a pleasure to be united with many distinguished specialists from the industry that Phillips has brought together for this new department."

Edward Dolman, Chairman and CEO of Phillips says: "I am delighted to be working once again with Aurel Bacs who has established himself as the market leading expert in this field over the last decade".

Building up a brand that is essentially trading on the name of a single person is not an easy process, particularly when that person was renowned for his skeletonisation work, which by its very nature meant relatively low volumes.

Armin Strom the man stood as a reference in the skeletonisation of watches, earning himself a mention in the Guinness Book of Records in 1991 for the smallest hand-skeletonised ladies' watch (12.5mm diameter) and working on hand skeletonisation for some major Swiss brands.

As he approached retirement, however, Armin Strom sought investors to continue his legacy in the form of a brand. But such a brand could not grow on the basis of skeletonisation alone…

Brand building
The transition started in 2006 and the new brand emerged thanks to several fortuitous events. Firstly, it was lucky enough to acquire in 2008 premises that had been occupied by a micro-stamping facility of Rolex, which were thus perfect for installing watchmaking machinery. Secondly, the financial crisis at the time offered a blessing in disguise for the new investors, who managed to purchase "for a song" some CNC machines that had been pre-ordered but cancelled by other brands.

The premises were fitted out between January and August 2009 and, astonishingly, by the end of 2009 Armin Strom had already presented its first in-house mechanical calibre. Today, only five years later, Armin Strom is a veritable brand boasting 12 different in-house calibres and a clearly structured collection, with each line - from the Manual up to the Tourbillon Gravity (the "Gravity" appended to an Armin Strom model means that it is powered by the force of gravity and is thus self-winding) being offered in four "elemental" configurations: Air, Earth, Fire and Water.

The elements
Aside from ensuring an unparalleled consistency of design across the line, the use of the elements offers four highly distinct looks to each line. The "Air" models, suffused with white on the strap and outer "ring" (the watch has no dial, in continuation of Armin Strom's philosophy of skeletonisation), are the most feminine, while the black PVD case of the "Earth" models and black ring with black leather strap, offers the masculine opposite. In between are the more classic designs of the "Water" models, with their stainless-steel case and the luxury touch of the "Fire" models, with an 18-carat red-gold case.

The "lip" at 6 o'clock on the case is also a distinctive trait of Armin Strom and stems from the craftsman's desire to have a space on the watch for personalization. A subtler, yet equally important, distinguishing characteristic is the slightly off-centre axis for the hour and minute hands, which is the brand's way of highlighting the in-house provenance of its movements. Only a company in total control of its own production and unreliant on third parties can allow itself such a discreet luxury.

Just like the much bigger brands whose shadow Armin Strom lives under in the industrial watchmaking city of Biel, the company employs a powerful combination of partnerships and ambassadors in its marketing portfolio, the most significant of which is undoubtedly the brand's association with the Marussia Formula 1 team, which is already in its fourth season.

Despite the communication efforts akin to a big brand, Armin Strom's pretensions remain modest. Its annual production hovers around the 1,000 mark and its latest collections, such as the Racing collection that is hitting the stores around now, are only produced in limited quantities, in this case only 100 units per reference. It's a level of rarity that could be qualified as reassuring for this remarkable niche manufacture brand.

Richard Mille calls his watches "a racing machine on the wrist". A tagline undoubtedly inspired not only by his personal interest in fast cars (Mille often races his own 1970 Lola), but also by his interest in exotic materials generally used in contexts such as the F1 industry. Your correspondent would now like to offer an extension to that tagline: "A racing machine on the wrist that makes otherwise reasonable people stop and gawk, want to make friends with you or upgrade your hotel room".

Borrowed feathers
I left the SIHH 2014 with an impressive titanium RM11-01 Roberto Mancini on my wrist, along with a pair of "mechanical" cufflinks, also in titanium. They were obviously not mine to keep, as I do not have Euro 114,500 in my timepiece account, nor the Euro 12,500 needed for the cufflinks (in fact I don't have a cufflinks account at all). Instead I wore the RM11-01 as borrowed feathers - but what borrowed feathers they turned out to be!

Once I got back home I started Instagram'ing this impressive watch and my Facebook account also featured many daily shots of the watch "in action". The response from social media circles was overwhelming. Strangers PM'd me asking if they could pop by my office just to see the watch, and I have a b suspicion that people showed up to my lectures just to get up-close-and-personal with the Richard Mille on my wrist.

The RM11-01 is a thing to behold. The distinct curvex and industrial looking case has been a trademark design of Richard Mille since the first model, RM001, was introduced in 2001. This particular model on my wrist, the Felipe Massa RM11, has been a success ever since it was originally launched in 2007 and can rightfully be considered the most popular of the contemporary range.

Do not however expect any extra attention if wearing the RM11-01 when horseback riding in outer Mongolia, or spelunking in Bulgaria. Richard Mille is not a carpet bomber; his distribution is very focused on key urban markets.

This of course is quite understandable as Richard Mille only produces 3,000 watches a year, and with an entry level of euro 43,000 (for the titanium RM07) to 1.4 million (for the elusive RM05601 with a sapphire case), it is a watch brand for the 1%. Unless of course you live in Dubai, where a Richard Mille is the horological equivalent of the soup of the day on the wrist of the Arab businessmen in their crisp, white disdasha. In these parts of the world a steel Rolex DateJust gets as much attention as last year's second runner-up of Dubai Has Talent. The glitterati of the Emirates get a diamond-crusted Rolex as their first timepiece, and have probably collected a complete set of Patek Philippe Nautilus models by the time their voice breaks.

The Nicholson of horology
A Richard Mille watch is for the guys (and gals) who have been around and who have tried and collected most high-end watch brands already. Their collections are already full of tourbillons, minute repeaters, probably including quite a few made by independent watchmakers, such as Christophe Claret, F. P. Journe and Kari Voutilainen.

Richard Mille may belong to the same crowd of young and indie watch brands, but he stands out. I see him as the Jack Nicholson of contemporary horology due to his laid-back personality and irresistible joie de vivre. His watches more powerfully represent sex, rock n' roll, fast cars and an exuberant lifestyle than anybody else.

Funnily enough the functions of Richard Mille watches are actually met with less interest than those of the competitors in the same price range, even though several of them offer fascinating functions such as a declutchable rotor, torque indicator and G-Force sensor, as well as a E6-B flight computer.

Nobody actually asked me about the functions of the RM11-01. A few asked about the choice of colors and nodded knowingly when I told them the model was named after a famous (former) Manchester City manager who is now managing Turkish Super Lig club Galatasaray. I got the distinct impression the watch could have been right only twice a day, and nobody would have noticed: it's the name on the dial and the lifestyle buzz that gets the pulse up.

But let´s sober up for a moment, ignore the sex appeal, and look at what this watch actually does.

The specs of the RM11-01
The automatic caliber RMAC1 inside the titanium case of the RM11-1 Roberto Mancini offers the standard functions of this model, such as flyback chronograph and annual calendar. Additionally, and in order to meet Mancini's demands, this model also offers a dial design that makes it possible to display football match time based on a two times 45-minute match while taking account of the 15-minute stoppage time.

During each half, a single press on the push-piece at "4" activates the flyback function, zero-setting the chronograph seconds hand which is thus ready to start timing the second half of the match. If extra time is awarded, the watch displays an additional 15 minutes and up to 5 minutes of stoppage time.

Functions and football reference aside, the RM11-01 procured me a somewhat unexpected pleasure while wearing it. I had strangers compliment my watch, floor managers expecting me to throw down a black Amex card to buy half the stock and hotel staff giving me extra attention when I was checking in (not when checking out as I turned out to not splash money everywhere I went). In conclusion, owning a watch from Richard Mille collection is what it feels like to park a slick luxury car outside a crowded cafe and step into it with a leggy blonde holding your hand: all eyes on you. And that thing on your arm.

Recent scientific research conducted by German psychologists looked at the manner in which the brands condition, stimulate and influence our brains and therefore the manner in which we perceive reality. How do brands affect our brains and how also do incorrect information on the brands in question alter our perception right into the furthest recesses of our neuronal cavity. These are the questions that were asked by researchers Simone Kuhn and Jurgen Galllinat.
Learnedly entitled "Does Taste Matter? How Anticipation of Cola Brands Influences Gustatory Processing in the Brain", their very serious experiment involved having MRI scans conducted on some 15 people (all perfectly sane, with no particular neurological or medical history, explain the researchers who also emphasise that "they were all right-handed" - doubtless because in left-handed people, the brain lobes are the other way round). Two specific areas of the brain were targeted: the orbitofrontal cortices, the home of subjective thought that given to different products one sees, and the ventral striatum, the area connected to reward and pleasure. An area which, as we will see, can "light up" at the slightest mention of a known brand, suggesting all the promises of "pleasure" that it is supposed to bring us.
 

The MRI guinea pigs were given four samples of a cola drink through a tube for them to give their opinion of each sample on a scale from 1 to 8. However these samples were not anonymous - and prior to each ingestion (repeated several times in different quantities), the logo of the brand was quickly shown on a screen: Coke, Pepsi, River Cola (a cheap brand that is well-known in Germany) and an imaginary T-Cola. To reinforce the guinea-pigs' belief, they were allowed to see four large syringes, all different, duly labelled with the name of the various brands.
Unsurprisingly, Coke and Pepsi won the vote hands down, leaving the other brands streets behind. Certain participants, the study explains, even express their b preference for Coke and Pepsi and their dislike of other brands. The glitch? The four mixtures were perfectly identical, and all strictly composed of a mixture of Coke, Pepsi, River and T in equal parts.

The result of the MRI scan showed that the orbitofrontal cortex where worth is evaluated was less used in the case of well-known or recognised brands, because this worth is retained and accepted in our connections. If one transposes this into the realm of watchmaking, one could say that on the scale of watchmaking brands, the orbitofrontal cortex does not need to get involved when it hears the word "Rolex", but will work overtime at the sound of the brand "Von Graffenried & Cousins", for example.
On the other hand, the ventral striatum which is the centre of reward and pleasure becomes active at the very name of a known brand - while it remains completely "silent" when it comes to unknown brands. Brands therefore have the power to arouse those neurones responsible for pleasure, reward and satisfaction to the point of preventive titillation.
 

Continuing with the methodology used in the cola experience, could one apply the same research methods to watchmaking? This would not be about tasting an undetermined liquid, but rather for example being given a chance to discover the most recent model of a brand in an exclusive sneak preview.
We might thus manufacture a watch representing a hybrid of several different models, including for example an Omega case, with a Rolex bezel, an Ice-Watch dial, Von Grafenried & Cousins pushers and Rochat & Meylan hands...The movement, also a perfect hybrid, could be presented as a Patek Philippe or alternatively a movement made in Shenzen and the strap leather as being made by Hermes or imported from Albania.
The consumers undergoing the MRI would be told that they were going to be given an exclusive presentation of a brand new Rolex, Omega, Rochat-Meylan, Boomtime or Von Grafenried & Cousins model, a claim borne out by the logos on the watch.
What do you think the result would be? How, for example, would the ventral striatum react to the announcement of a totally new Von Grafenried & Cousins model? Probably a scientifically measurable flat encephalogram, whereas on the contrary, one might well imagine that the very mention of the upcoming discovery of a brand-new Rolex model would trigger a whole host of neurones - especially among bloggers, whose ventral striatum would quite likely start performing a belly dance!
Poor us!
We thought that only our sacrosanct "free will" determined our choices and our intimate desires, but this does not appear to be the case. Something like Pavlov's dog which started salivating and slobbering simply when it heard the bell ringing signalling its food - and even if the food never appeared again - we unconsciously vibrate and get excited at the mere thought of promised pleasures that for most of us will always be unattainable.
 

HODINKEE - 15 October 2012

Turn down a side street off one of London's most famous roads, and you'll find yourself on a block that could be nearly anywhere in central London. Rows of identical townhouses in faded brick line both sides of the narrow paved lane, and there is something sleepy about the place. But hidden on an upper floor of one of these nondescript residences sits the Bamford Watch Department.
The Bamford Watch Department is the brainchild of George Bamford, a charming, amiable Londoner with a love of spy novels (which inspired the semi-hidden headquarters) and a very earnest telling of the inspiration for his company. For his eighteenth birthday, George was given a Rolex Daytona and thought he had received the coolest watch on the planet. But quickly, after finding numerous friends with the same Daytona on their wrist, he started thinking of ways to make his watch more "his."

George is passionate about Rolex and historic sport watches, and collects them feverishly. He wanted to work within this framework while also creating something personal and unique for himself (and now his customers). Rather than designing new watches from the ground up, George decided to take the classics he loves so much and customize them.
The foundation of a Bamford watch is the super high quality PVD coating. But on top of this there are numerous options. Dial finish, hours/minutes markers, hand configurations, bezel treatments, and a number of other things can be tweaked and adjusted to suit the customer's preferences. The goal is to deliver a watch that is unique and personal to the wearer. It is important to note that Bamford was indeed the first to customize a Rolex, and is considered to be the highest quality of the now many after-market customizers. No expense is spared. To give you an idea, Bamford is currently working on a special engraved case for a client, and they've hired ex-Purdey engravers to do the work. If you know Purdey, you know what that means - the absolute best.

Entering the discrete Bamford Watch Department headquarters feels like stepping into a Bond novel. Up the plush stairs and through a heavy door is a watch lover's dream lounge. Outfitted with chalk-striped Ralph Lauren furniture, photographs of BWD watches, white orchids, a model Ferrari, decades-old watch books, and even a few bottles of Rolex's Perpetually Yours cologne, the room feels more like your cool best friend's living room than a place to buy watches. And Bamford's love of Rolex is more apparent nowhere than in this room.
During our recent trip to London, George was kind enough to sit down with team HODINKEE to walk us through his latest offerings. Opening the sleek case he brought with him, George showed us a California Dial Submariner, a Sonar Milgauss, a Ghost Milgauss, a Paul Newman-esque Daytona, and a handful of other interesting BWD watches. The quality of every details was extremely high across the board - these are a far cry from most after-market modifications. Very cool indeed.

George gets excited when he talks about meeting clients with interesting ideas (whether they share his particular taste or not), listens more than he speaks, and seems genuinely excited about giving people a product for which they can feel a real sense of ownership. The "I did it for myself and it just happened to become a business" story doesn't sound contrived or fake at all when George tells it, and by the end of our afternoon together, I was already trying to figure out which configuration I might want most.
Click here to check out more from the Bamford Watch Department, and view their recently redesigned website.

Antiquorum, The World's Premier Auctioneers of Modern and Vintage Timepieces, is pleased to present its fall auction of "Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces" to be held on Sunday, November 11th at The Mandarin Oriental Geneva. Collectors can look forward to bidding on 613 outstanding modern and vintage timepieces.

Amongst the unique and collectible highlights is an extremely rare Rolex Single Red Prototype, Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller Submariner and a series of Patek Philippe timepieces, including a Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and a Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Previews will be held in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing as well as Geneva.

The highlight of the sale is a Magnificent Royal Presentation Musical Fan with Concealed Watch, A gift from Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha to Vicomte de Morais, attributed to Piguet & Capt, Geneva, made circa 1810.

 
It is an extremely rare and magnificent, musical, gold, painted on enamel and pearl-set fan with concealed watch and visible rose-diamond-set balance, the fan painted in watercolour and gold. This important gold and enamel musical fan is one of only three known to exist with a watch and music. A magnificent object de luxe, like the other fabulous and exotic precious objects made in Geneva at the beginning of the 19th century, this fan would have been the exclusive preserve of Royalty and the very upper echelons of polite society.

Lot 189
Estimate: CHF 300,000 - 500,000
 
"It's exciting to come across rare and special lots such as the Prototype Rolex Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller Submariner and the Royal Presentation Fan, and we are proud to present them at Antiquorum's auction," said Evan Zimmermann, President and CEO of Antiquorum. "Items of such horological and historical importance along with a series of Patek Philippe and other very fine timepieces are sure to make this an outstanding event."
 
Antiquorum is also proud to present the Single Red Patent Pending Rolex Ref.1665 500m/1650ft - one of only six known. Produced in 1967 and never before seen at auction, there are six known examples of the "Single Red," including this particular example. According to research, this may be one of the only two known examples with escape valve. These watches were the prototypes for subsequent production models of the Sea-Dweller. Their history, intertwined with the lives and contributions of important divers of the 1960's make them one of the most historically significant watches that Rolex ever made, and thus one of the most important dive Rolexes to have ever come up for auction. Bought by the current consignor in the late 1980's, the watch has remained unworn in the safe since its purchase and has remained in excellent original condition.
Lot 126
Estimate: CHF 80,000 - 120,000
 
Patek Philippe collectors will want to bid on the Patek Philippe Ref.1518, First Series. Made in 1951, it is a rare 18K yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases accompanied by the Extract from the Archives.

Lot 612
Estimate: 200,000 - 300,000 CHF
 
Another highlight of the sale is a Patek Philippe Yellow Gold Ref. 2499/100, one of the last examples to be produced. It is a very fine 18K yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with phases of the moon accompanied by the Extract from the Archives. Made in 1984, it would appear that the present watch has never been offered at auction before.

It will not be just the world's biggest book on Rolex watches (together with "Rolex Submariner Story" and "Collecting Rolex Milgauss, Turn-O-Graph, Yacht-Master, Explorer") but also the most important edition ever done on Rolex: Rolex Daytona Story.
A limited edition, in a large format, with unpublished material, very specific content, top quality images and updated estimates of all watches covered.
All the usual features of Mondani's editions have been combined this time with the watch, which not only represents the dream of all enthusiasts, but is also an extremely important collector's item, the value of which will increase astronomically over the years.
The authors are Osvaldo Patrizzi and Guido Mondani, two of the greatest Rolex experts worldwide.
 

Throughout these pages, they illustrate all those small details which determine the enormous variations in watch value on the market today.
All references are presented with the dates of the beginning and end of production as well as specifying all their main features: push-buttons, crown, bezel, dial, crystal, bracelets, graphic details of logos, writing and hallmarks.
You will also discover many things about Patrizzi Dials, Floating Dials, inverted 6 and much more...
From the Daytona manual winding models to the Oyster Perpetual series 16500 with Zenith caliber and Oyster Perpetual series 116500 with self-winding movement and Rolex caliber. Osvaldo Patrizzi and Guido Mondani, after years of research and study, will answer the main questions of modern collectors, like for example:
Why the name Cosmograph?
Do personalized case backs exist?
What are the indexes of the Cosmograph dials like?
Why do Rolex dials oxidize and change color?
What are the differences between that dials of the series 16500
and the ones of the series 116500?
Updated estimates of all published Rolex watches are enclosed.

WORLDTEMPUS - 20 August 2012
When I am evaluating the condition of a watch, I always examine the case's lugs for thickness and uniformity. With experience after studying lots of watches, you will learn what a case looks like before it is refinished. For example: on complicated Patek Philippe models, especially perpetual calendar chronographs starting with the second-series 2499 models, the lugs have steps. Study these watches closely to learn what the steps look like when they are new. Stay away from cases with soft lugs or request a deep discount for a soft case. The metal can never again be made whole once it is polished away.
In the previous three parts of this series, we have learned that the dial is the most important and valuable part of a vintage watch. Accordingly, the condition of the dial is paramount. Ideally, there will be no imperfections like flaking paint, no rust, or missing applied pieces. Many vintage watch dials have lacquer on them; after many years lacquer can craze or crack. This is actually a desirable effect on some watches like the glossy dial of the Rolex 5513 Submariner. Spotting on a dial that is a few decades or more in age is normal, and as long as it doesn't detract from your enjoyment of the watch, it is normally acceptable. The hands, usually included with the dial in grading condition, are frequently in different condition than the dial. Oxidation or pitting can often be found on hands. If there is luminous substance on the hands, it can be cracked or have completely fallen out. In this regard, original hands, regardless of their condition, are more valuable than replacement hands, even if the latter are like new.

In terms of dial condition, there are some specific discolorations that enhance the value of the watch. Most common is patina, which is the word used for something whose color changes over time. The luminous hour markers on Rolex dials are the most useful example. Study the dials of, say, Reference 5513 Submariners. You will find hour markers from snow white (no patina) to deep butterscotch color. The important thing, in terms of value, is that the patina is uniform across all luminous elements. Another permutation in hue is the so called Color Change (or "Patrizzi") dials on the Rolex 16520 Daytona models. This only occurs on the black dials and, specifically, on the chapter rings around the subdials. Originally, the chapter rings were white or pale silver. Some, over time, develop a brown coloration. For many collectors, this is a pleasing effect and makes the watch more valuable. Incidentally, dials with a propensity for having chapter rings turn brown usually also have an inverted 6 on the chronograph hour totalizer subdial. One last example of a desirable color change is the Rolex Explorer II reference number 16550, whose white dials have turned to a deep cream color.

Bracelets hopefully stand the test of time without stretching or losing links, however this is not as important as replacement bracelets are usually fairly easy to find, though likely expensive. Nothing is more personally disgusting than a used strap, much less a really old used strap. A new strap is preferred, as no one likes to wear a strap that someone else has sweated on. An exception to this is certain vintage pilot's watches with special straps or even ankle straps, which are basically almost as historic as the watch itself.
The last variable in determining the value of a vintage watch is provenance: the old "box and papers" thing. Without exception or qualification, it is always better to get as many of the elements that were originally delivered with the watch as possible. For many high-end vintage watches, the presence of the original box, documents and other paraphernalia can enhance the value of the watch by as much as 25 to 35 percent.
Interestingly, what was given out with the watch was often different depending on where in the world the watch was purchased. Let's face it, we all like to get as much as possible for our money, and the goodies and extras are important and quite valuable. The original guarantee or chronometer certificate for a watch also proves authenticity. There is an active market for vintage watch boxes, product booklets, hang tags and the like. Buyer beware, however: these items can also be faked. You can never be too careful in learning about the paraphernalia, what to look for to know if you are looking at genuine artifacts or fakes.
A final thought when it comes to finding a watch with its original elements: the original owner and perhaps subsequent owners who cared enough to keep the watch and its things together was probably an owner who took good care of the watch itself. Easily 90 percent of vintage watches have no box and papers, so finding a complete package is rare, exciting and valuable. Good luck!

Related stories:

COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (1)
COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (2)
COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (3)

WORLDTEMPUS - 16 August 2012

Dials deserve special mention when talking about the originality of vintage watches because, in my opinion, an original dial comprises approximately half to three-quarters of the watch's overall value. For example, a vintage Rolex Daytona with a normal original dial is worth only half of the same watch with an original Paul Newman dial. A Rolex Submariner from the 1950s with its original unmodified dial is worth double the same watch with a later Rolex replacement dial. Naturally, very few such early watches survive to this day with original perfect-condition dials, but such pristine original dials exist. These perfect watches command a substantial price premium over watches with degraded, but otherwise original, dials. Degraded original dials command more value than OEM (original equipment maker) replacement dials.

I mentioned last week how dials can be modified for aesthetic or functional reasons - known in the jargon as re-painted, as re-dialed, re-lumed, etc. - and dials that fall into this category have the least value. Fake dials, fairly prevalent on otherwise valuable original watches, have no value and are considered a serious demerit to the watch for obvious reasons. However, the other real parts of the watch have value, which is to be remembered for the serious collector who may have a collection of original parts accumulated over many years, which he or she can combine to form a watch comprising all original parts. So-called "put-together" watches are less than optimal because they are not original. As the years go by, however, and parts and/or entire watches get damaged, discarded or become otherwise unavailable, these spare original parts can result in a complete original watch that would otherwise be a broken or less-than-original watch. 

It's not surprising that the dial is the most important part of the watch because the dial is how the wearer interacts with the watch. A compromise with the dial is a compromise in the enjoyment of the watch, and ultimately in its value.
Cases and movements are also often less than completely original and, again, this can be for various reasons. Both are still critical factors in arriving at the value of a watch, however. Ideally, both the entirety of the case and movement will be original. Hopefully, the movement will have been serviced over the years and be running. If the movement needed or needs parts, OEM parts are preferred. However, the bottom line is that the watch is running. An original movement with some non-original parts is preferred to a broken movement that doesn't run. In more complicated watches, especially vintage Rolex Daytonas, the movements are sometimes not original. Vintage Daytonas were powered by Valjoux movements that were commonly found in other quality chronographs of the era. A vintage Daytona may have the Valjoux movement numbers 72B, 722, 722-1 or 727. Rolex made their own modifications to these movements and, of course, engraved the bridges. Given the value of vintage Daytonas, resourceful crooks have "put together" vintage Daytonas using real Valjoux movements from non-Rolex watches (without the Rolex modifications or with faked modifications), and a combination of other real or faked parts. Watch cases are not usually counterfeited, but you may find a Universal Geneve case masquerading as a Daytona case.

One other point needs to be made about cases and movements: Rolex stocks replacement cases and replacement movements for watches received for servicing with irretrievably compromised parts. These cases often have a distinct serial number starting with the numeral 44. Likewise, the movement in a vintage watch may be a replacement movement if the original was rusted or somehow destroyed. Knowing which movements belong in which watch is a matter of experience and building an excellent resource library; so many part numbers can get confusing for anyone.
The condition of the watch is the next most important variable in determining the watch's value, and sellers grade condition. Some sellers will use a number scale with 100 percent condition meaning the watch is as perfect as new. Other sellers use words like mint, mint+, near mint, excellent, etc. I like to believe most sellers make an honest attempt to describe their watches accurately. Not surprisingly, the seller often describes the condition of the watch more optimistically than the buyer will describe it once receiving it. So if you are buying a watch, make the guarded assumption that the seller's condition assessment is probably optimistic.
Obviously, the better the condition of the watch, the more valuable it is. As such, there are some specific things to pay attention to and there are tradeoffs. Every collector has to decide what is most important to him or her in this regard.

Specifically, when a watch case leaves a factory it is new, shiny and not diminished from being polished. Some collectors put a premium on a watch that has been polished so that its surfaces are clean enough to give the appearance of being like new. Other collectors prioritize originality over appearance. A watch case has a specific finish when it is new, and many watches have a combination of alternating finishes like mirror-polished, matte, sandblasted, or brushed surfaces. If a watch returns to its manufacturer for service, the watchmakers will restore the original finish, which is important. Using Rolex once again as an example, many Oyster cases are brushed on the top surfaces of the case, mirror-polished on the sides, and the case back is mirror-polished on its outer ring and brushed in the center. The center may be concentrically or laterally brushed. Send a watch to Rolex for service and it will come back looking perfect.
However, careless watchmakers have ruined hundreds of thousands of watches by applying a mono-finish when working on a case. I have seen far too many fully mirror-polished Rolex cases and all brush-finished Panerai cases that should have been polished. Fortunately, this is reversible, but remember: each and every time a watch case is polished, metal is eroded and lost forever. Also, check the case for serial and model numbers and other engraving or printing that should be on the watch. All should be crisp and legible. Many cases have been polished to the point where original markings are either illegible or removed altogether. On precious metal watch cases, look to make sure that the metal's hallmarks are present. If you are looking at what appears to be a gold or platinum watch, the case should have hallmarks. Finding a crisp, deep hallmark means the case is both made of the metal it purports to be made from and has only been lightly or never polished.

Related stories:

COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (1)
COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (2)
COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (4)

Revue FH - 5 July 2012

The 2012 Rolex Awards for Enterprise aroused keen interest. Indeed around 3,500 names were put forward - more than double that of recent editions - originating from 154 different countries (126 at the last edition). The average age of participants was down from 46 to 41. The percentage of women meanwhile rose from 23 to 28%, a record high.
Members of the interdisciplinary jury, which included renowned scientists, explorers, environmental campaigners, doctors, educationalists and entrepreneurs, made their selection as follows:
Sergei Bereznuk (51), Russia

The Russian Far East is home to 95 per cent of the remaining population of the Amur, the biggest of the world's tigers (also known as the Siberian tiger), which weighs on average 200 kg. Today, an estimated 350 to 500 of this subspecies (Panthera tigris altaica) roam the frontier region bordering China and the Sea of Japan. Although sustained conservation efforts over recent years have moved the Amur tigers from «critically endangered» to «endangered» on the International Union for Conservation of Nature's Red List, they still remain at risk - mainly due to poaching.
For the past 17 years, Sergei Bereznuk, a staunch Russian conservationist and ecologist, has been working valiantly to save the Amur tiger. Based on his experience since 1995 with a tiger anti-poaching brigade in the Primorsky Krai, the Russian Far East province commonly known as Primorye, Bereznuk is convinced that saving the Amur tiger depends on both the efficiency of anti-poaching measures and the education of the local people, two elements at the core of his Rolex Awardwinning project. Moreover, he considers the Amur tiger as a powerful driver for the general conservation of its ecosystem, the taiga forest.

As director of the Phoenix Fund, a small, environmental NGO that he has headed for 12 years, Bereznuk and his team of six people are carrying out an impressive range of activities to preserve the Amur tiger over a territory of 166,000 km2. These include support of anti-poaching units, awareness-raising among local people, reversing habitat reduction due to fires and logging and resolution of humananimal conflicts, along with providing compensation for damage and monitoring invasive industrial projects in the region.
Barbara Block (54), United States

Large marine predators such as sharks and tunas are essential to maintaining the delicate balance of our ocean ecosystems, but overfishing, habitat destruction and pollution have caused reductions of populations worldwide. Measures advocated by scientists to reverse this decline include the creation of large marine protected areas in the open ocean that preserve feeding and breeding grounds. A major challenge has been to identify the best locations for these sanctuaries, since these species are highly migratory and difficult to follow.
Barbara Block, a professor of marine biology, has developed innovative electronic tagging techniques that enable following fish beneath the sea. In the late 1990s, she helped develop the first pop-up satellite archival tag, a device that detaches itself from the fish on a pre-programmed date and floats to the surface of the sea where it transmits archived data via satellite.
Block's aim is to build the technology that will enable monitoring of these ocean hotspots and to engage the public on the plight of marine predators that roam along the west coast of North America - a crucial prelude to their conservation.
Her team conducts «conservation oceanography» incorporating the latest advances in sensor technology, ocean observing systems and computational methods to provide resource managers and policy-makers with data on the sustainability of both exploited and protected marine predators.
Erika Cuellard (40), Bolivia

The largest of Bolivia's national parks, the Kaa-Iya del Gran Chaco, boasts the unlikely combination of South America's hottest, driest weather and 70 species of large mammals, including jaguars, pumas and giant armadillos, living in the largest protected tropical dry forest in the world. This harsh and inhospitable environment has been the workplace of Erika Cuellar for more than a decade. The scientist has spearheaded participatory conservation with the indigenous Guaraní people who live on the boundaries of the park. She has worked towards improving grassland management and local capacity building by training local people to take ownership of the conservation of their habitat.
Encouraged by her successes in the national park, Cuellar's sights are now set on the wider Gran Chaco region, which spans parts of Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. The Gran Chaco counts a variety of indigenous tribes, nomadic hunters, gatherers, fishing communities, farmers and cattle ranchers as its human inhabitants. The forests and scrublands are also home to 3,400 plant species, 500 bird and 150 mammal species, many of which are unique to the region.
But for more than a century, the Gran Chaco's natural wealth has been systematically eroded. A notable casualty of these man-made factors has been the guanaco, the wild ancestor of domesticated llamas. In 2007, to help protect this species and its habitat, Cuellar devised a course to train members of three ethnic groups native to the Gran Chaco (Guaraní, Ayoreode and Chiquitano) as parabiologists. As native inhabitants, parabiologists are also an influential means of conveying the value of conservation to indigenous communities. Cuellar now wants to extend her approach in Argentina and Paraguay and formalize the model to make conservation a viable long-term local employment option.
Mark Kendall (40), Australia

Mark Kendall is developing an inexpensive and highly efficient way to reduce the annual death toll of millions of people worldwide from infectious diseases. Many of these fatalities can be prevented by vaccines, but the traditional syringe-and needle method - invented in 1853 - is holding vaccines back. First, this method injects vaccine into muscle, which has few immune cells, missing our immune «sweet spot». It is expensive and presents numerous difficulties - with vaccines requiring refrigeration in many countries where electricity supplies are uncertain.
With the «Nanopatch» that Professor Kendall is developing at a cutting-edge bio-engineering research institute at the University of Queensland, in Australia, a host of problems linked to the traditional needle and syringe will be swept away. The syringe-free method developed by Kendall uses an applicator which propels the Nanopatch and its microprojections - painlessly - onto a superficial layer of the skin where target immune cells are most numerous. The process does not draw blood, so the risk of infection is greatly reduced.
The Nanopatch is coated with dry vaccine, so no refrigeration is required. This, together with lower vaccine doses, drastically reduces all costs, including transport. In the long term, Nanopatches could probably be administered by community workers or teachers, thus avoiding the need for medical staff to be present.
Aggrey Otieno (34), Kenya

Korogocho, Nairobi's fourth-largest slum, is home to an estimated 200,000 people in an area of only 1.5 km2, which is troubled by widespread insecurity, substandard sanitation and deep poverty. An estimated 300 women experience postpartum haemorrhage and 200 newborn babies die there every year due to the lack of obstetric medical facilities and a means of getting to hospital, as well as the fact that the local birth attendants need assistance during emergencies. In Korogocho, the maternal mortality ratio is roughly 700 women out of 100,000, compared with 13 out of 100,000 in the United States.
After studying in the United States, Aggrey Otieno returned to the slum, his birthplace, to improve the health of his community by empowering its people. With his knowledge of the area, Otieno, who has gained a well-deserved reputation as a valiant champion of the poor and vulnerable residents of Korogocho, is well placed to drive forward his project to build a telemedicine centre with a 24- hour, on-call doctor and van, thereby helping to prevent many deaths.
Under the auspices of the non-profit organization Pambazuko Mashinani - of which he is founder and executive director - Otieno will use his Rolex Award funds to train birth attendants to recognize when complications are occurring so that they can alert staff at the centre by text message when an emergency arises. These qualified workers and doctors will give instant medical advice and, if needed, dispatch a van to transport the woman to hospital.

When it appeared in 1956, the DAY-DATE was the first wristwatch with a calendar indicating the day of the week spelt out in full in a window on the dial. The DAY-DATE adorned with a new gem-set dial perpetuates Rolex's legendary excellence and displays all the brand's watchmaking know-how and technology.

Chocolate, diamonds and rubies
In an 18 ct EVEROSE gold case of incomparable lustre, this DAY-DATE is fitted with a chocolate colour dial on which the hours are marked by precious stones: eight diamonds and, at 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock, baguette-cut rubies.

Rolex pink gold
The 18 ct EVEROSE gold of the OYSTER case and bracelet is alloyed by Rolex in its own foundry before being shaped in the brand's workshops. The incomparably warm tone of this exclusive pink gold alloy developed by Rolex is heightened by the addition of a touch of platinum. Its unique lustre is the result of the extreme care with which it is shaped, machined and finally polished.

The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
The DAY-DATE's 36 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of proportion and elegance. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct gold. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TWINLOCK double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The fluted bezel is a Rolex signature aesthetic feature. The crystal, with a CYCLOPS lens at 3 o'clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case allies refinement with efficiency in protecting the DAY-DATE's high-precision movement.
Calibre 3155, a superlative chronometer
This DAY-DATE is equipped with calibre 3155, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3155 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.

Comfort and elegance of the OYSTER bracelet
This DAY-DATE model is fitted with an 18 ct EVEROSE gold OYSTER bracelet with a concealed folding CROWNCLASP. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet offers remarkable comfort and ease of use.

A bezel in all the colours of the rainbow
Along with its 18 ct yellow gold case and bracelet, this COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA dons a bezel entirely set with an array of sapphires in rainbow colours. All the nuances of the celestial arc are visible, a delicate palette of reds, oranges, yellows, greens, blues, mauves and pinks. The subtle grace of these fascinating stones meticulously selected, assembled and set by Rolex is magical, endowing the watch with a stunning radiance.
Also gem-set, the case lugs, crown guard as well as the hour markers on the dial participate in the exquisite allure of this variation on the DAYTONA theme.

Exclusive GOLD CRYSTALS counters
Contrasting with the black lacquer of the dial, the reflections of the GOLD CRYSTALS counters blend with the radiance of the precious stones. Crafted from an 18 ct gold alloy perfected by Rolex in its own foundry, these exclusive counters highlight the crystal structure of the gold in a seductive play of reflections and colours. Each counter is a natural work of art, different from every other.
The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
The COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA's 40 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of proportion and elegance. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct gold. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TRIPLOCK triple waterproofness system, as well as the chronograph pushers screw down securely against the case. It is protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case ensures optimal protection for the COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA's high-precision movement.

Calibre 4130, a superlative chronograph chronometer
The COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA is equipped with calibre 4130, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 4130 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring, patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.
The OYSTERLOCK clasp, functional and secure
This COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA is fitted with an OYSTER bracelet in 18 ct yellow gold with the latestgeneration OYSTERLOCK safety clasp to prevent accidental opening. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet also features the ingenious EASYLINK rapid extension system that allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance.

In less than fifty years the combination of high quality creations (made in Switzerland) and the Latin spirit of the brand won over the Americas. Various fine watch brands (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Longines) associated their names with Cuervo y Sobrinos (a more prestigious name at that time) to co-produce watches based on Havana time - a legacy of "bygone time". The boutique quickly became so successful that in the 1890s Cuervo y Sobrinos decided to expand its production network, opening branches in three crucial European cities.
While most European luxury product creators expanded their international business to other continents, Cuervo y Sobrinos was one of the first overseas brands to take the opposite path, successfully working on the Continent: in Pforzheim, Germany, where La Casa selected its precious stones; in Rue Mezlay in Paris, where its finest jewels were made, and later, in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, where its timepieces were created.
For its select clientele, a visit to La Casa in the heart of Havana was a must on every trip, just like visits to the great jewelers on Place Vendôme in Paris or Fifth Avenue in New York. In the 1940s, the heyday of the brand, prized Cuervo y Sobrinos products weren't simply premium watches but reflected a lifestyle and a way of thinking. After having its name among top watch brands for more than fifty years, the company's business slumped after the political uprisings in the country. The Cuervo family left Cuba for Europe and for nearly forty years the brand lay dormant.
 

Asia Tatler - 15. November 2011

Last month, DKSH Holdings held its first Swiss watch auction in Hong Kong with a promising total of HK$23.4 million worth of luxury timepieces sold at the auction. With the growing number of luxury watch boutiques populating the streets of Hong Kong, it is without a doubt that the watch market has grown exponentially, and that now there are more not only willing to purchase luxury timepieces but more than ever before, there is a growing market for watch investment. We talk to Gonpo Tsering, head operations support and member of group management of DKSH in hope to learn more about the value of watches and the booming watch market.

According to Tsering, the Swiss Auctions, an activity of DKSH's business segment in luxury and lifestyle, was held in Hong Kong for the first time because the company saw the need for a platform to bridge the gap between owners of rare and important timepieces and collectors hunting for rare collectible timepieces.
"DKSH identified this niche market and is catering to this demand with a very high-end auction for watches. Hong Kong - this thriving and throbbing city - was our immediate first choice for obvious reasons. Hong Kong is becoming highly attractive to watch collectors from all over the world - and the fact that there are no sales or luxury tax here is of course very conducive to promote this trend."
Read about Boucheron's exquisite craftsmanship here.
For those who want to start their own watch collection or begin investing in watches, it is crucial to give a timepiece its rightful value. Tsering recommends a few ways to determine a watch's value:
1) Take note of the brand of the watch
2) Take into account the condition of the timepiece
3) Find out when it was manufactured
Second, potential buyers should also refer to a watch price guide and appraisal information to find out where the value ranges for the watch. Last, but not least, work with a professional watch appraisers who can value the watch and provide an appraisal certificate.
 

"I would suggest that new watch collectors learn more about the watch market and the techniques on how watches are being appreciated and valued. The internet is a good first starting point to gather knowledge about watches. Besides, they should also attend auctions so that they can get firsthand information about the value of the watch and the trend of the market. My personal advice: focus on either a brand, on a certain period, or on a special category of timepieces. My personal favourite is pocket watches, which are not so popular currently and therefore very affordable," he advised.
Apart from looking at the new watches released by major brands and manufactures, watch investors are advised to go to watch auctions to source possible investment pieces. Watch auctions does not only give collectors the choice of the best collectables at a single location, but it gives the guarantee that the watches are authentic and are in good condition while it also reduces the amount of extensive research.
 

 
Tsering shares his belief that there is a clear sign that the watch market will definitely continue to blossom with an Asian force.
"The potential growth of the market for timepieces and watch collection is indisputable. Asia's remarkable growth and the rapidly emerging middle class will lead to a significant increase in demand for luxury and lifestyle goods, driving further growth in the luxury market."
Black rolexes are a hit in the auction houses, find out where you can get your own black Rolex here.
With such new force in the watch industry, Tsering said there is also one more thing that investors should bear in mind: Asian consumers trends have now changed. In the past, Asian consumers usually follow global trends. Now, a new wealthy class with more international exposure is coming up from developing Asian countries, they tend to know more about the market and are interestingly becoming fonder of simpler and more conservative designs. So, when investors are selecting potential investment pieces, they should also be aware of which sector of the industry they are targeting.

For example, among the top lots sold at the auction was a Historie de Tourbillion, a Zalium manual-winding tourbillion from Harry Winston. This 18k white gold timepiece was manufactured in 2009 and was sold for an impressive HK$2.55 million.

Revue FH - 27 October 2011

Nestled in the heart of the Joux Valley, the firm Dubois Depraz designs, develops and constructs additional movements for watch complications for some of the greatest names in watchmaking, including Patek Philippe, Breitling, Rolex, Omega, Richard Mille, etc. Be it chronographs with multiple indications (with or without perpetual calendar), special mechanisms indicating days, months, leap years, moon phases, sunset and sunrise, the equation of time, tides, timezones, jumping-dials, governors, mechanisms for regattas, watches for polo, as well as minute, quarter and five-minute repeaters, extra-flat mechanisms, etc, the world of complications no longer holds any secrets for Dubois Depraz. Around fifty brands currently employ the services of the firm, which is ready to rise to any challenge thrown down to it.

110 years of history have led Dubois Depraz on the path to their present success. On 1st January 1901, Marcel Depraz set up his first watchmaking workshop in Le Lieu, at number 12, Grand-Rue, over the family baker's shop. Ten years later, with a view to increasing his firm's capacity, he teamed up with his brotherin- law Marius Guignard. Together, they set up a second company: Depraz & Guignard. Marcel's children, Gabrielle and Roger, also joined the family business. In 1937, Marcel Depraz decided to strengthen his two companies and employed his son-in-law Reynold Dubois. Results were not long in coming, with the rapid launch of the 13 3/4 chronograph calibre. This master stroke saw the production of more than 4.5 million movements up to the 1970s. In 1947, the two firms merged under the name Depraz & Cie. In 1956, Gerald Dubois, a young watchmaking engineer and father of the two present-day directors, set up a research and development design office.
Eleven years later the world's first modular chronograph was born, the 11-12 Chronomatic calibre. This invention was awarded the diploma and silver medal at the Brussels Inventors Show in 1969. Meanwhile, Depraz & Cie changed its company name to Dubois Depraz SA.

In the 1970s, despite the economic difficulties, the firm presented another world first, a mechanical chronograph with an analogue display featuring an electronic tuning-fork movement. In parallel, it diversified and embarked on the production of mechanical and quartz chronographs fitted as standard on aircraft and cars. Despite these launches, the crisis proved too b for the partnership between the two directors and in 1979 Gerald Dubois purchased the buildings and continued the adventure alone. In 1983, after several years of research, Dubois Depraz launched the calibre 2000 chronograph which could be adapted to all mechanical or quartz movements. This innovative concept caused a sensation in the watchmaking world and even today remains one of the firm's flagship products (around two million have been manufactured to date).
In 1987, Jean-Philippe Dubois, the current CEO, joined the company. He was followed five years later by his brother Pascal, who was appointed as director. Finally, in 2006, they acquired one of their suppliers, DPRM (Decolletage pignons et roues manufacture), located in Arch (canton of Bern).

In the course of these eleven decades, Dubois Depraz accumulated a huge wealth of expertise that was passed on from generation to generation. Even today the firm holds the secret of certain manufacturing phases no longer used by anyone else in the watchmaking world. An example is «tribofinishing», the process which consists in deburring and polishing pieces in a single operation. This involves turning pieces from one to seven days in sealed cylinders of different sizes, according to the desired end result. The media inside the rollers consist of different materials (copper, ceramic or plastic), special soap and polishing powder. Although the processes of deburring and polishing are widespread in the watch industry, Dubois Depraz's secret lies in the dosing of components and the length of the operation.

Manufacturing secrets alone would be worth nothing without skill, hard work, and the precision and quality of products delivered by Dubois Depraz. Today, 220 people in the Joux Valley and 50 in Arch work industriously under the roof of this independent family business.

WORLDTEMPUS - 30 June 2011

Wimbledon may seem anachronistic - grass courts are virtually extinct outside Britain - with its somewhat outdated traditions, but in reality the most prestigious tennis event in the world has always been a trailblazer. Its secret is actually to continuously change while staying the same, displaying long-term perspective to realize that its traditionalist aura is its biggest strength.
Rolex boasts precisely the same approach. Seemingly immune to fashion and trends, the Geneva-based brand maintains a consistent collection that features subtle changes every year, with even the updates carefully made to respect the "evolution in continuity" that seems to be the company's mantra.
Wimbledon and Rolex have been together since 1978 and form one of the oldest associations in the history of sports sponsoring - a partnership made in heaven, since even the dominant corporate color of both institutions is the green that governs the landscape and grass courts of the All England Lawn Tennis Club where the tournament is held. Clearly bound by mutual respect for tradition and long-term vision, the long-standing relationship between Wimbledon and Rolex is set to last.
High-caliber tennis pedigree
In the past decade, Rolex has become one of tennis's biggest investors, assuming the timekeeping role in many of the biggest events and boasting a growing stable of ambassadors.
Beside its historical tie with Wimbledon, the Geneva-based company also sponsors another Grand Slam tournament in the Australian Open, the biggest team competitions in the world (Davis Cup and Federation Cup), the year-end championships on both tours (ATP World Tour Finals and WTA Championships), and several Masters 1000 events - including the Monte-Carlo Masters. The list of testimonial ambassadors among the active players is topped by living legend Roger Federer, who won the first of his record-holding sixteen Grand Slams precisely at Wimbledon. He embodies Swiss precision on court. Other Rolex testimonials include the charismatic Frenchman Jo-Wilfried Tsonga, the gentle giant from Argentina Juan Martin del Potro, world number one Caroline Wozniacki, former world number one Ana Ivanovic, recent French Open champion Li Na and her Chinese countrywoman Zheng Jie.
The question lies directly at the tip of the tongue: why is Rolex investing in tennis so heavily?

Firstly, thanks to its longstanding association with Wimbledon, Rolex can boast a tennis "pedigree" of the highest caliber. Secondly, one of the brand's sponsoring directors knows everything about the sport: Arnaud Boetsch, a former number 12 in the world rankings, and the man who gave France the winning point in the first-ever Davis Cup final decided in the fifth set of the fifth rubber (against host Sweden, in Malmö, 1996). Boetsch had been living in Geneva for some time and, after retiring, started organizing events, including a Legends tournament in the Calvinist city, to which a special guest was invited.
"The president of Rolex was invited to one of the tournaments I organized and then Rolex proposed for me to join its team in 2003 because there was only one person with sponsoring and it was not enough," Boetsch recalls. "Now there are two of us in charge of sponsoring. I take care of all the tennis, sailing and cultural activities; my job is to make sure the Rolex brand keeps on shining and getting the best visibility - not in terms of quantity, but quality-wise. And we like to be associated to the best and most prestigious events."
Wimbledon is the most famous tennis tournament in the world and has a lot in common with Rolex. "There are two words that can define Rolex: tradition and innovation. Wimbledon is the same," says Boetsch, who made it to the All England Club's fourth round in 1992 before losing to Pete Sampras. "Wimbledon has been changing its infrastructure without changing its spirit; building new facilities, a retractable roof on the venerable Centre Court, showcasing a new electronic scoreboard, adopting the Hawk-Eye. Wimbledon changes, but keeps a b tie to its roots." These are roots that go way back to 1877; this year the tournament celebrates its 125th anniversary and, although many changes have been made to the grounds over the years, especially since 1994, the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club has retained its unique image and character, achieving a perfect balance reminiscent of the Oyster Perpetual's concept.
Ambassadors
Rolex has been making the most out of its association with Wimbledon. "We developed a hospitality program from 2005 on, inviting clients from all over the world and offering them Centre Court seating - something really exclusive, providing them an exceptional experience," Boetsch explains.
Several Rolex ambassadors from other sports and areas of life also make the pilgrimage to the tennis Mecca; the prestigious guest list this year included ski champion Lindsay Vonn, horse virtuoso Rodrigo Pessoa, golf legend Gary Player in addition to golfers Adam Scott, Paul Casey and Martin Kaymer, and soprano Dame Kiri Te Kanawa.
The tennis testimonials have been visiting the Rolex suite on Centre Court during the tournament and two of them played a spectacular match just yesterday: Jo-Wilfried Tsonga defeated Roger Federer in a three-hour, 15-minute quarterfinal epic that saw the power of the Frenchman's serve overcoming the Swiss's finesse: 3-6, 6-7, 6-4, 6-4, 6-4.

The revered Centre Court is the quintessential tennis venue and has been kept free of advertisements with a few exceptions in the form of a few small logos. The Rolex sign on the scoreboard is the most famous one. Rolex is not only visible in this classic arena: for more than thirty years, Rolex has played an important role in Wimbledon's history and its clocks have also kept the official time on the outside walls of the hallowed Centre Court and throughout the grounds. For instance, the effervescent media centre possesses a collection of Rolex clocks showing the time in San Francisco, New York, Rio de Janeiro, London, Johannesburg, Tokyo and Melbourne: just a few of the major cities where tennis's greatest tournament is broadcast live.
Among the four Grand Slam tournaments; Wimbledon is certainly primus inter pares. Beside historical reasons, there are natural ones: the grass and the rain, the members and the queues, royalty and celebrities, strawberries and cream, triumph and defeat - and also timeless tennis and Rolex timekeeping.

WORLDTEMPUS - 22 June 2011

Veloptuous Times demanded the best that its protagonists could produce: endurance, resistance to cold and rain, the ability to focus attention after strenuous physical activity for interviews, and stopping as frequently as necessary to take a good photo. There was continuous mental and physical activity at the same time. Between bursts of pedaling, sun and wind, we also needed to find the time to care for our electronic equipment in order to write and publish. This is the reason why this last trip summary is only being published today, three working days after Veloptuous Times officially ended with a successful cocktail party in Neuchâtel.

PHOTO GALLERY

WORLDTEMPUS - 8 June 2011

The world-class tennis tournament in the heart of Paris seems to be the stage that tennis has set to show off players' and spectators' love of watches.
Rafael Nadal's spectacular win over Roger Federer in the finals of the tournament - his sixth French Open championship on the slow red clay in seven years - represents a continuation of Richard Mille's foray into high-profile ambassadorships. Confirming Mille's ever-accurate nose, world number one Nadal has been on a serious winning streak since first strapping the controversial RM 027 tourbillon to his sweaty wrist last spring.

- Christie's leads the international auction market for watches
- Geneva's Important Watches including a Connoisseur's Vision Part IV achieves a blockbuster total of more than us$ 26.3 million, +25% versus may 2010 results.
- New record price set for any rolex wristwatch at auction
- $3.6 million Patek Philippe - new record price for any simple chronograph watch
- More than a dozen record prices in one day
- 1 lot sold above us$ 3.6 million
- 3 lots sold above us$ 1 million
- More than 800 registrants from all 5 continents

TOP TEN RESULTS

Reaffirming Christie's absolute leadership in the international watch area, Geneva's sale of Important Watches including A Connoisseur's Vision Part IV achieved a blockbuster total of US$ 26,331,962 (SFr. 23,427,013 / € 18,647,902), an increase of 25% over last May's auction total in Geneva.
This is one of the highest results ever realized in the history of Christie's watch sales and leads the auction series dedicated to the category in Geneva this spring.
The top watch of the sale is a unique 18k white gold cushion-shaped single button chronograph wristwatch manufactured in 1928 by Patek Philippe which sold for more than US$ 3.6 million, a new world action record for any simple chronograph watch.
Among the other sensational new world record prices set at Christie's in Geneva is a new top price for any Rolex wristwatch at auction, achieved for an oversized stainless steel split seconds chronograph wristwatch manufactured in 1942, which sold for US$ 1,163,340.
Aurel Bacs, International Head of Christie's Watch Department, commented:
"The international community of watch collectors responded enthusiastically to this premium selection of rare wristwatches and pocket watches hand-selected by Christie's team of specialists for our spring Geneva sale. Our results confirm once again that Christie's is the auction house of choice for both buyers and sellers of the rarest and most important watches.
Today's sale was characterized by b bidding from the international trade, but dominated by private collectors and museums around the world. Eight different buyers secured the top ten lots of the sale - a sign of the immense depth of interest in this category.
The sale was notable for its spectacular moments - for the first time ever at auction, a Rolex watch surpassed the $1 million mark with the ultra-rare reference 4113 selling to a private collector for over $1.1 million.
We were also touched by the spirited bidding that led to a b result for the Hillary Tenzing Explorer set, which soared above everyone's expectations to sell for US$ 104,532 with all proceeds directed to charity.
Lastly, Christie's is extremely proud to announce that with Part IV of 'A Connoisseur's Vision', this prestigious collection of Patek Philippe watches reached the highest total ever for any collection of fine wristwatches ever dispersed at auction, reaching over US$ 22 million. We are grateful to the consignor for having entrusted Christie's team of watch specialists with the sale of this landmark collection and are immensely satisfied to see that the market rewarded his knowledge and passion to such an extent".
Earlier in the sale, the G. Garvin Brown III Collection, Part I was 100% sold with most watches selling above high estimates. Two further installments of this exceptional collection will be offered as at Christie's Hong Kong sale of Important Watches on May 30 and at Christie's New York on June 15, 2011.

WORLDTEMPUS - 15 April 2011

For better or worse Australia is not typically a market that garners a great deal of interest from the luxury watch industry. The perception is that it's too far away, consumer tastes aren't sophisticated enough, and there is not enough population. Certainly most of the big names in watchmaking maintain a presence, but the ranges are generally limited and many of the high-end complications never seem to reach Australia's shores.
Nowhere is the effect of this isolation felt more bly than in Perth, the capital city of Western Australia. Thanks to the significant distance that separates it from the "big" cities on the eastern seaboard - it takes more than five hours to fly to Sydney - Perth is often left out altogether. While this is not terribly surprising, it does demonstrate an incredible lack of foresight.

 
Boom Times
Although Perth may be relatively small from a population standpoint at approximately 1.7 million, it is a rapidly expanding city fueled largely by the astronomical growth of the mining industry and China's insatiable appetite for its resources. Thanks to this burgeoning prosperity, there are more self-made millionaires per capita in Perth than anywhere else in world. Indeed, such is the demand that people come from all over Australia seeking work there.
With these favorable factors at play, it is of little surprise that a number of serious collectors call Perth home. What is interesting, however, is that despite being shown little interest from the industry they have still managed to cultivate a sophisticated watch scene that extends far beyond well-known, mainstream brands such as Rolex, Omega and Patek Philippe (although plenty of those are sold in Perth too). While brands may not publicly disclose the information, or perhaps even be aware of it, a number of private collections feature pieces from prominent independent watchmakers.

Have Money, Will Travel
One of the reasons why Perth has such a sophisticated subset of collectors may be its location. Rather than fly across the country to Sydney or Melbourne to view relatively limited collections, wealthy residents of Perth can take a short, four-hour flight and find themselves in one of the most impassioned watch cities in Asia: Singapore. Here they are exposed to a wide range of brands and have the opportunity to handle pieces that will never make it to Australian retailers. They also benefit from having access to extremely knowledgeable staff (arguably some of the best in Asia) who are very well informed about the brands, the products and of course all the latest industry news.

 
While collectors may be forced to buy some of their pieces overseas, there is a flow-on, word-of-mouth effect for the local market as these individuals often move in wealthy circles and share similar tastes. One day a businessman spots an MCT Sequential One on his associate's wrist and asks where he got it. A passionate conversation ensues and within minutes another Perth resident has had his or her eyes opened to a completely new segment of the luxury watch market he or she never knew existed. This person catches the next plane to Singapore and so the cycle is perpetuated.
Because all these people are buying their timepieces overseas, very few people actually realize that this small but incredibly affluent market exists.
That is set to change very soon, however, with some exciting developments ensuring that the city of Perth will begin to feature prominently on the watch industry's map. While confidentiality prevents disclosure of too many details at this point in time, this will be an event the likes of which the Australian watch market has not seen before. For the time being though, wealthy Perth collectors will continue to travel overseas to spend their hard earned money, leaving Australian brand managers tearing out their hair in frustration.

As the start draws near, the skipper's pulse quickens. Already visualizing the action of the race, he manoeuvres as close as possible to the line.

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II embodies all of the intense emotion a regatta arouses. By its impressive size, evocative power and sleek design, this unique regatta chronograph echoes directly the Maxi Yachts built to brave the oceans. The new version is the first Professional watch in the Oyster collection to be available in EVEROSE ROLESOR - an exclusive combination of the 904L steel superalloy and 18 ct EVEROSE gold.

Sights on the horizon
Equipped with a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II is an innovative and pioneering watchmaking complication, based on interaction between the movement and the bezel. It allows the skipper to programme a regatta countdown sequence from 1 to 10 minutes. Once the countdown has been launched, the skipper can, if necessary, synchronize his chronograph to the official race countdown. Thanks to the Yacht-Master II, experienced sailors and yachting enthusiasts have at their disposal an efficient tool to assist in crossing the starting line at the very moment the horn sounds.

Regatta meets watchmaking technology
With its numerous innovative watchmaking features, the Yacht-Master II model, launched in 2007, is the epitome of the brand's creative force and technology. Its functions depend on a major innovation: the exclusive RING COMMAND bezel, designed and developed by Rolex. Rotatable through 90° and interacting with the movement, it serves to initialize and then lock the countdown programming.

The model's 4160 movement, entirely designed and developed by Rolex, is fitted with a PARACHROM hairspring, 10 times more resistant to shocks and insensitive to magnetic fields. The countdown is operated by a column wheel and a vertical clutch. A number of microcomponents in this unique movement are produced by UV-LiGA - a new technology, entirely mastered in-house by Rolex, which enables the production of components whose fineness or geometry makes them impossible to manufacture by traditional means.

The Yacht-Master II's case, stamped from a block of 904L steel extremely resistant to corrosion, offers all the qualities of waterproofness that have made the reputation of Oyster watches. Not least thanks to its TRIPLOCK winding crown, which screws down tightly against the case like the hatch of a submarine. The pink gold of the bezel and the bracelet's centre links is 18 ct EVEROSE gold, an exclusive alloy developed by Rolex and manufactured in its own foundry. The blue CERACHROM bezel insert, virtually impervious to scratches, corrosion-resistant and non-fading, is also patented and manufactured by Rolex.

The excellent legibility of the Yacht-Master II's dial demonstrates the constant attention to functionality in the Oyster Professional collection. The red countdown minute and seconds hands are readable at a glance against the graduations on the dial or bezel.

The bracelet, in 904L steel and 18 ct EVEROSE, is fitted with an EASYLINK 5 mm comfort extension link and an OYSTERLOCK clasp with a safety catch, two further Rolex innovations.

The horn has sounded. The course is set. The Yacht-Master II forges ever forward, sailing towards new horizons.

The new Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust in yellow or white ROLESOR exudes elegance and distinction. A harmonious marriage of colours and materials, this redesigned classic celebrates the timeless beauty of Rolex precision. The moment is precious, the future full of promise.

The infinite poetry of gold crystals
The GOLD CRYSTALS dial of the new Lady-Datejust is an exquisite homage to femininity. Obtained using an exclusive process that magnifies the natural crystal structure of the gold, it captures the light and gleams in an extraordinary play of glistening reflections. Infinite poetry, an invitation to dream. As if by magic, the crystals of the noble metal are revealed in all their splendour, creating incomparable depth that delights the eye. On one particular version of this model, the Rolex JUBILe motif appears in a secret and mysterious filigree, a door opening onto the imaginary. Each GOLD CRYSTALS dial is a work of art in itself, as unique as the lady who wears it.

Sublime in its delicate design, the version with the ivory coloured dial with a "sunbeam" guilloche pattern enchants with its clean lines, its extreme finesse, its infinite charm.

The elegance of diamonds
All the dials of this new interpretation of the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust are graced with 10 diamonds which add to the originality and the subtle radiance of the watch face.

Entirely gem-set, the bezel brings yet another touch of luxury and elegance. Its 46 brilliant-cut diamonds sparkle like so many invaluable treasures which, at each reading of the time, remind us of their timeless splendour.

A hymn to femininity
Feminine down to the last detail, an ode to charm and romanticism, the new Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust embodies absolute grace. It is nonetheless, like all Oyster watches, a waterproof chronometer equipped with a PERPETUAL rotor self-winding mechanical movement. To wear this gem of a watch is to live every moment intensely with the promise of a radiant future.

This bold incarnation of a feminine classic, in its 34 mm 18 ct EVEROSE gold case, enriches a collection already offered in yellow and white gold.

Seductive charm of EVEROSE gold
The 18 ct Everose gold of the case, bracelet and bezel sets the tone from the outset: an exclusive Rolex alloy, captivating in its inherent lustre and nobility. A mixture of serenity and vitality, sobriety and audacity, it exerts an irresistible power of seduction and gives the watch its b personality. Around the bezel sparkle 12 brilliant-cut diamonds, elegantly showcased in 18 ct white gold settings. The effect is luminous, exquisite, enchanting.

Dream dials
Dazzlingly delicate, the Goldust Dream dial is a subtle, refined marriage of white or black mother-of-pearl and gold dust. The mother-of-pearl is embellished with a new nature-inspired motif and an exquisite design in pink gold dust applied in a fine layer via a patented PVD process which preserves the mother-of-pearl's natural structure while giving it a highly original metallic sheen. The slightest ray of light illuminates this magical dial with iridescent reflections that make the fine strata of the mother-of-pearl shimmer in a subtle play of light. Each of these dials, with a large gem-set numeral at 6 o'clock, is a unique, refined work of art, striking in its delicate splendour.

Distinction and precision
The new Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition stands out thanks to its gracious, curved lines, its feminine form and its new, elegant invisible clasp. It is also an Oyster with peerless precision and reliability, a waterproof chronometer equipped with a Perpetual rotor self-winding mechanical movement. A trusted companion under all circumstances.

The lady who wears this watch looks ahead, stepping confidently towards her future. She glances at her watch, living the present to the full, her sights already set on expanding horizons.

WORLDTEMPUS - 25 March 2011

Approximately 40 years ago Rolex introduced a distinct 40-millimeter watch with extreme sports in mind. "Cave explorers did not know if it was night or day," Justin Hogbin of Rolex smiles as he explains the orange 24-hour hand that originally indicated if it was noon or midnight when the Explorer II was launched in 1971.
A steel bezel indicating 24 hours supplemented the bright orange hand that Italian watch collectors have nicknamed "freccione" ("big arrow" in Italian). Freccione remains the loving nickname of the original reference 1655 Explorer II of 1971 to this day.

The Rolex Explorer II has never been the most popular of the otherwise much-loved sports watches by Rolex. It has however been the only model in the sports collection to offer a choice of black or white dial (not accounting for the Daytona range). However, the GMT and Submariner models seemed to overshadow the Explorer, which actually might be a thing of the past now.

Outshining the siblings
The new Rolex Explorer II ref. 216570 has grown in diameter from 40 to 42 millimeters. This growth is actually not very noticeable as both the hour markers and the hands have grown proportionally as well.
Even on the wrist the new Explorer II does not seem oversized compared to the current GMT or Submariner, both of which measure 40 millimeters in diameter. Au contraire: the new Explorer seems to have found its very comfortable place in the sports range of Rolex and will undoubtedly attract new-found attention, which this particular model has not enjoyed for 40 years.

Slightly new caliber
On the technical side, the movement does have a new name, Caliber 3187, however it does not differ much from the former caliber, which bears the name 3185, apart from the blue Parachrome hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers.
The 24-hour hand can be set independently to offer a secondary time zone read. This was not possible on the original model from 1971, but was introduced in 1985 when Reference 16550 took over from Reference 1655. This was the inspiration of this year's best looking new product from Rolex.

Of course, the new Explorer is fitted with the very comfortable updated Oyster bracelet with the comfortable Easylink extension. This five-millimeter extension, which is part of the bracelet clasp, creates a better fit when skin expands during the summer or in a warm climate.

Harry Winston's Opus has become more than a collection of outstanding timepieces. This blend of watchmaking dreams come true tells a story of determination that has turned into a cultural phenomenon, recreated annually by talented people who know how to derive synergy from an equal commitment to art and technology. For the past 10 years, Harry Winston has called on the originality and skills of independent watchmakers to realize its concept of superior watchmaking. For Harry Winston, watches reflect a passionate belief that you can - and must - go beyond the imaginable. Today, the House of Harry Winston is proud to present its 11th Opus, a watch that shatters watchmaking notions to bring you the disintegration of time itself.

An extremely complex case stages the show. The three overlapping cylinders on three levels are configured to deconstruct time. The main circle is the hour's domain, flanked by two pavilions. One shows the minutes on a jumping disk for the tens and a running disk for the units. The other, slightly lower, displays the regular beat of a big titanium balance-wheel.
Anarchy takes hold of the hours indication beneath the sapphire-crystal dome every 60 minutes. The numeral of the hour, assembled in the center of the circle, explodes into chaos before instantly reassembling as the new hour. It then remains still until the next disintegration. Instead of a hand, 24 placards revolve and rotate on a complicated system of gears mounted on an epicycloidal gear-train. Four satellites mounted on a rotating platform, each with three pairs of placards, provide a vertical transmission through a train of eight intermediate wheels, three elliptical gears, a triangular wheel and six conical pinions. The bevel gears are responsible for changing the axis of rotation of the placards and positioning them according to an elaborate drill maneuver. The triangular wheel and elliptic gears are calculated to vary the gear ratio to absorb shocks and prevent the placards colliding.
The tooth profiles of the triangular and elliptical gearing have been obtained using sophisticated programs. These are today so powerful that they can calculate and display unconventional, and even extreme, gearing and analyze different parameters such as backlash. Parts are manufactured using photolithography, which produces micro-components to a precision unobtainable by traditional machining methods.
The conical pinions for the bevel gears are just 1.2mm wide, yet their teeth are exactly profiled and angled, thanks to a new gear-cutting technique.
The path taken by the placards has been calculated to minimize the space required for them to turn over. However, the shell of sapphire crystal, also extremely difficult to manufacture, gives ample room for the hourly animation.

The transparent display back of the gold case reveals a manually wound movement in the style of the old pocket-watch movements with a big balance-wheel. Consisting of 566 components, including 155 jewels, the mechanism is finished in the most traditional manner of classic watchmaking, in sharp contrast to the crazy display of the hour. One version of the watch is gem-set in the contemporary style: a simple line of princess-cut diamonds lights up the contour of the caseband.
The appointment has been fixed. The hour comes apart at its end, leaving its particles to explode outwards and be turned into new hours ad infinitum. Such complexity and ingenuity make Opus Eleven an important milestone in Harry Winston's exploration of time.
Limited edition of 111 watches.

DENIS GIGUET

Denis Giguet trained as an engineer and started making a name for himself in fine watchmaking. The experience he gained with such firms as Rolex and Harry Winston developed into a visionary approach far in advance of the watchmaking industry. Familiar with the design and construction of highly complicated watches, he worked as production manager at Harry Winston. In 2007 he launched his own brand, MCT, and designed the Sequential One, a far-reaching development in creative engineering for which he involved the crafts of more than 20 experts in their fields. His creative energy has given birth to Opus Eleven, a timepiece where his own vision of time is perfectly expressed by the Harry Winston personality.

"Rolex Gallery" is a complete journey through all the vintage and modern models produced by Rolex.
With new images and updated information, this edition shows from the rarest models to the most dressy ones, to those that represents a dream for watch collectors.

Every chapter of this book represents a type of Rolex watch:
Air-King, Bubble Back, Chronographs, Daytona, Explorer, Moon Phases, GMT-Master, Milgauss, Oyster Date, Oyster DateJust, Oyster Day-Date, Oyster No Date, Prince, Quartz, Submariner, Turn-O-Graph and Yacht Master.
Over 100 different Daytona, 100 Chronographs, 50 GMT-Master, 50 Submariner are showed together with many other watches.
"Rolex Gallery" also provides the course of Rolex history, focusing on those watches that have made history.
"Rolex Gallery" is a clear, detailed and updated guide for all those who want to approach and understand the market of Rolex wristwatches.
This book is within everyone's reach however at the same time represents a useful guide for Rolex collectors.
Text in Italiano, Français, Deustch, English, Español
224 Pages • color ill. • Format : 24 x 28.6 cm.
Price : CHF 195.00 • € 140.00
 

ORDER THE BOOK

Geneva - Antiquorum's weekend sale of « Important Vintage and Modern Timepieces » held on Saturday 13th and Sunday 14th of November at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva, realised CHF 7'006'275 with 80% of the lots being sold. This concludes Antiquorum's autumn auction season with a total of CHF 15'922'890.
In addition to the 339 online bidders, there was a substantial presence in the room as well as numerous telephone bidders. Attendance came from around the world , including Germany, Italy, the United States, Romania, Hong Kong, Taiwan, China, Singapore and Canada.
"We are very satisfied by the results achieved this weekend in Geneva, in particular with the impressive price obtained for the Everest Rolex of Alfred Gregory", said Julien Schaerer, Managing Director & Auctioneer. "This demonstrates the great interest of collectors for timepieces that not only have historical significance, but also bear great emotional value."

The top lot of the auction was the extremely rare Patek Philippe Ref. 2499, in Pink Gold (lot 643), which sold for a remarkable CHF 1'082'500. Other Patek Philippe timepieces achieved very good results, including the Ref. 3450 (lot 252), acquired for CHF 212'500 and the Ref. 866/75 in yellow gold (lot 636), with enamel hunting scene on the case back: "Departure of the pack at daybreak" that reached CHF 92'500.
 The Rolex Ref. 6098 (lot 621) worn by Alfred Gregory on Everest during the successful expedition of 1953, drew a lot of attention and excitement among the collectors. After fierce bidding in the room against the phone and internet, this watch of enormous historic significance sold for an exceptional CHF 145'300, more than 5 times its high estimate.
Another timepiece of great interest, the Quarter-Repeating Navette-Shaped Ring Watch (one of only two known examples) given to The Emperor Napoleon I. (lot 466), reached a remarkable CHF 92'000.
Girard-Perregaux wristwatches also obtained notable results including the "Opera Two, Tourbillon, Carillon 'Westminster' Minute Repeater with Tourbillon," No. 2, Ref. 99740 (lot 548) that achieved CHF 182'500. The "Vintage 1945 Collection Prestige Set Unique" (lot 547), comprising four exceptional platinum wristwatches, sold for CHF 112'900.
"Superb complicated modern wristwatches made both by the renowned Manufacturers and the independent artisan makers draw increasing interest amongst a new generation of collectors, seeking exclusive and limited series watches", commented Etienne Lemenager, Director & Watch Expert.
Omega aficionados were thrilled by the important collection of 40 Limited Edition Omega Speedmasters, property of a private Italian collector. These timepieces evoked great enthusiasm among bidders and achieved the exceptional result of CHF 223,250, with 100% of the lots being sold. Some of the highlights included the "Speedmaster Professional" Apollo XIII Ref. 3450022 (lot 12) which sold for CHF 9'375, the "Speedmaster Professional" 999 Galaxy Train Ref. 3571.50 (lot 25), made especially for the Japanese market which attained CHF 10'000 and the "Speedmaster Professional" Ref. 3570.40 (lot 27), another limited edition for the Japanese market, was acquired for CHF 8'750.
Finally, the Panerai "Luminor" Ref. 6152/1, made for the Italian military frogmen circa 1950 achieved an outstanding result of CHF 100'900.
"The Italian bidders have proven once again that they are key players within the European market continuing their traditional great interest for vintage wristwatches, in particular for Patek Philippe, Rolex and Panerai timepieces", said Thomas.

Results

swisster.ch - November 12, 2010

Hillary's son and daughter obtain a legal injunction, saying the timepieces consigned by their stepmother for bids rightly belong to them, while the New Zealand government also expresses concerns.
A New Zealand court is blocking the planned auction in Geneva this Sunday of Rolex watches originally owned by the late legendary mountain climber Sir Edmund Hillary as members of his family feud over who owns them.
Antiquorum has advertised several of the luxury timepieces consigned for sale by Lady June Hillary, widow and second wife of the late adventurer, who died in 2008.
But a high court from Hillary's native country granted an injunction this week at the request of lawyers acting on behalf of the climber's son Peter and daughter Sarah, who claim they own the watches.
In addition, the New Zealand government said it regards the watches of national cultural importance.
The injunction instructs Lady Hillary to ask Antiquorum to withdraw them from sale.
The auctioneer continued on Friday to include the watches in advertising for its weekend auctions on its website.
An Antiquorum representative could not be immediately reached for comment.
The collection is part of a group of 643 "important modern and vintage timepieces" to be sold under the hammer by Antiquorum during a two-day sale this weekend at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel.

One of them is a Rolex "Oyster Perpetual" chronometer dating from 1953 that was presented to Edmund Hillary in India after his descent from Mount Everest in honour of his achievement the same year.
At the age of 33, he and Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay became the first climbers known to have climbed the summit of the world's highest mountain.
Hillary subsequently wore the watch on a trans-Antarctic expedition from 1955 to 1958, the first overland crossing of Antarctica and the first expedition to reach the South Pole since British explorer Robert Scott in 1912.
"It has immense historic significance," Antiquroum says in its online catalogue, noting that the caseback is engraved "Sir E. Hillary".
The watch is valued at between 10,000 and 20,000 francs.
Another timepiece in the collection is an 18-carat yellow gold Rolex bought on May 29, 2003 by Hillary on the 50th anniversary of the day he reached the summit of Everest.
Its estimated value is between 8,000 and 10,000 francs.
Among the other Rolexes are ones bought by Hillary to commemorate the 20th anniversaries of the Everest climb and his attempted ascent of Himalayan peak Cho Oyu from the Nepal side in 1952.
The estimated value of the watches is not in the upper reaches often seen at Geneva auctions.
The headline watch in Antiquorum's weekend sale, for example, is a rare Patek Philippe "pink gold" wristwatch valued at between 800,000 and 1.2 million francs, and the auction house says it has sold 49 watches valued at more than a million francs.
But the New Zealand Ministry for Culture and Heritage said at least one of the Hillary watches has legal protection under the country's Legal Objects Act.
According to press reports from New Zealand the government wrote to Lady Hillary's lawyers on Friday to inform her of the watch's protected status.
Under the country's law, protected objects cannot by exported without the permission of the culture and heritage ministry.
However, its is not clear whether the injunction has any legal bearing in Switzerland.
It is possible that officials New Zealand government may have to contact Bern in order to intervene.
Hillary's son and daughter said their stepmother put the watches up for sale without asking them, according to a report from the New Zealand Press Association.
Peter Hillary said it was "very sad" he and his sister had had to take court action to stop Lady Hillary from going ahead with the sale, but it was the straw which had broken the camel's back.
"There have been a number of very significant items from the Ed Hillary collection that do belong to Sarah and I, that have been disposed of inappropriately," he said.
"I believe that it has been stopped for the time being and we are hopeful we can preserve these legacy items," Peter Hillary added.
"They, along with a lot of other items, are of great significance to this family and I would suggest in some respects to New Zealand, in terms of being important items from the Ed Hillary collection."
Neither Lady Hillary nor her lawyer were available to the press for comment.
June Hillary married the climber in 1989 after his first wife and one of his two daughters died in a plane crash in Nepal in 1975.

Some of the world's foremost scientists, explorers, environmentalists, doctors and educators will gather in Lausanne, Switzerland, in November to honour the first five winners of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise: Young Laureates Programme.
The Young Laureates Programme seeks to foster a spirit of enterprise in the next generation by giving young people the financial support and recognition to tackle the challenges facing humanity with innovative projects.
More than 600 leading figures from Switzerland and around the world are expected to attend the Awards ceremony on 11 November 2010 at the new Rolex Learning Center at the Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne (EPFL), one of Europe's leading science and technology universities.

Polymath Brian Eno, the British record producer, composer, singer, multimedia artist and a noted technological innovator, will be the keynote speaker at the ceremony. Long concerned with the future of society and the global environment, he will talk about the relationship between science and the arts.
The Young Laureates, all aged between 18 and 30, are: Jacob Colker from the United States, Reese Fernandez from the Philippines, Nnaemeka Ikegwuonu from Nigeria, Piyush Tewari from India and Bruktawit Tigabu from Ethiopia. Their projects range from transforming volunteering for the 21st century to enabling impoverished women to create eco-ethical fashion goods, from developing interactive radio in order to promote sustainable farming, to training volunteers to provide rapid care to road accident victims and developing TV programmes to improve children's health.
"On the occasion of the Awards ceremony, Rolex is taking the opportunity to showcase both the winners and their visionary projects and to foster intellectual exchange between them and some of the best thinkers from Switzerland and abroad," said Rebecca Irvin, head of the Rolex Institute, the company's philanthropic and educational arm. "Our ultimate goal is to encourage an enterprising spirit among under-30s worldwide and to stimulate innovation in the region in order to help ensure a better future for the next generation."
An inspiring programme
To coincide with this celebration, from 9 to 11 November, Rolex and the EPFL are co-hosting a series of presentations encompassing the theme of innovation. All of these activities are designed to facilitate the exchange of ideas among the Young Laureates and international guests, including more than 40 former Rolex Awards Laureates and Jury members, as well as the 22 Young Laureate finalists and EPFL faculty members and students.
As part of the interaction between the young Rolex entrepreneurs and the EPFL community, visits are being organized to two of the university's groundbreaking research labs: the Blue Brain Project, the first-ever attempt to reproduce fully a biologically accurate digital model of a mammal's brain in order to understand brain function and dysfunction; and the Global Health Institute, created to contribute to the understanding, prevention and treatment of infectious diseases. In addition, there will be presentations of the university's landmark research in areas such as health and diagnostics, and water and sustainability.
"We are honoured to co-host the ceremony and to welcome the young innovators and other Rolex guests to our campus," said Adrienne Corboud Fumagalli, vice president of Innovation and Technology Transfer at EPFL and a member of the 2010 Young Laureates Jury. "The EPFL wants to stimulate entrepreneurship among students, and the Rolex Young Laureates Programme is a great match for us."
Rolex Young Laureates Programme
An expansion of the long-standing Rolex Awards for Enterprise, the Young Laureates Programme, launched in January 2009, honours men and women between the ages of 18 and 30 with inventive ideas to solve tomorrow's challenges in science and health, applied technology, exploration, the environment and cultural preservation. Each Young Laureate receives US$50,000 over the course of two years, giving the winners time to focus on their pioneering projects and move forward in implementing them. The Rolex Awards international network of innovators, comprised of former Laureates and Jury members, is available for guidance.

The Young Laureates Programme complements the original Rolex Awards for Enterprise, which will be held again in 2012 and for which applications are already open (rolexawards.com).
The five Young Laureates in the inaugural Rolex Awards for Enterprise: Young Laureates programme are:
Jacob Colker, 26, United States - is changing the way people get involved in community service. His internet-based programme allows volunteers to use their smartphones to donate spare minutes to charitable and scientific organizations.
Reese Fernandez, 25, Philippines - is committed to alleviating poverty by training people to become social entrepreneurs. Her Rags2Riches enterprise has already empowered hundreds of women to earn a living by turning scrap materials into elegant fashion accessories.
Nnaemeka Ikegwuonu, 27, Nigeria - intends to boost the living standards of millions of Nigerian farmers through his interactive, mobile radio network. Hundreds of thousands of rural listeners are already receiving and exchanging information on sustainable farming practices and health issues.
Piyush Tewari, 29, India - has set up a foundation to train a network of police officers and volunteers to respond quickly to road accidents and administer rapid medical care. By providing immediate assistance to victims, he hopes to stem the thousands of fatalities that occur on Indian roads each year.
Bruktawit Tigabu, 28, Ethiopia - is building on the success of a television programme on health that she and her husband are producing for preschool children and their parents.

WORLDTEMPUS - 2 November 2010

Few would argue that accuracy is an unimportant quality for a watch. However, every day consumers purchase mechanical watches that offer no basic assurance of horological precision. There are, however, several firms that capitalize on the services of the independent Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (COSC) as a guarantor of their watches' fundamental accuracy within -4 to +6 seconds per day.

Last year at the SIHH, Roger Dubuis, a firm that has famously employed the aesthetic standards of the Geneva Seal, announced that it would add a second layer of external oversight by also submitting movements to the COSC.
For Claude Vuillemez, the COO of Roger Dubuis, the appeal of COSC certification is obvious.
"We are a young manufacture," Vuillemez told Worldtempus, "and to get recognition we are looking to external referees like COSC on chronometry and Timelab on functionality to validate our technical expertise."
Breitling has cultivated its image around the fact that it is first and foremost a maker of chronometer-rated instrument watches. Indeed, every Breitling timepiece, quartz or mechanical, is also a COSC-certified chronometer.

"Like in aviation, where every instrument needs to be certified, COSC is an independent laboratory checking the precision of every single Breitling movement for 15 days in 5 positions and at 3 different temperatures," said Breitling executive vice president Jean-Paul Girardin.

Who's Who?
The COSC releases annual lists ranking the brands receiving the most certifications, with Rolex, Omega and Breitling perennially occupying the top three spots.
The global recession contributed to a shake-up of the list in 2009, with Ball Watch, a relatively small producer, breaking into the top ten (at number eight) for the first time in its history — with 15,455 certifications.
Jeffrey Hess, president of Ball Watch in North America, attributes his firm's rise not so much to any specific actions taken by the Swiss watch company with American roots, but to cutbacks in production at some competitors.
While 2009 was difficult for much of the industry, Hess says it was actually a fairly good year for Ball Watch — which led to no reduction in production of certified chronometers.
Ball Watch has another reason for its interest is chronometer certification. Historically, the firm submitted pocket watches to the U.S. Bureau of Standards as a measure intended to ensure the accuracy of its famous railroad chronometers. These were the precise timekeepers used by railroad engineers to avoid potentially disastrous collisions. Hess sees the modern COSC as an extension of this legacy.

At the very least, a modern COSC-certified wristwatch will help its wearer make his or her train on time — as Webster C. Ball originally intended.
 

Swiss watchmaking has continued to reinvent itself throughout the centuries as Swiss craftsmen, inspired by their passion and love of tradition, strive to enhance their precision expertise.
Maison Bunter, one of the leading specialists in major complications and jewel-setting, has been fired by such passion for some 155 years. Today Bunter is proud to present Arcadia: an innovative watchmaking concept that rises to the challenge of reviving one of the greatest emblems of Switzerland's watchmaking heritage.

During the 19th century the Arcadia brand was the symbol of Swiss watchmaking excellence and the standard-bearer of the celebrated Fleurier Watch Company, whose creative approach would inspire generations of watchmakers. Now, after falling victim to the 'quartz revolution,' Arcadia, and its incredibly avant-garde models, are being reborn under Bunter President Claude Sanz - a passionate devotee of watchmaking history.
This new adventure, imbued with unfettered imagination, offers a fresh approach to communicating the values of traditional Swiss watchmaking around the world.

HISTORY
1858 - 1970 : Arcadia
In the early 19th century Swiss watchmaking - hitherto a craftsman's activity - enjoyed one of its earliest industrial booms.
Thanks to Edouard Bovet, one of the first watchmakers to target the Far Eastern market, the number of watchmakers in Fleurier (a village in the Val-de-Travers near Neuchâtel) more than tripled inside 30 years.
Jules-Samuel Jequier, who was born in the village in 1835, chose to devote his life to watchmaking from an early age. He joined Bovet in 1856 after training as a jewel-cutter and, thanks to his enthusiasm and entrepreneurial zest, rose swiftly through the firm's ranks.
Later, helped by his five sons, Jules-Samuel Jequier founded the Fleurier Watch Company, a manufacturer devoted to jewel-cutting and designing watch calibres. The growth of the watchmaking industry would inspire the Jequiers to launch a number of different watchmaking brands.
Among them: Arcadia.

rcadia was founded in 1858 and became the flagship of the Fleurier Watch Company. The classically-inspired Fleurier brand enjoyed great renown among connoisseurs of quality watches, epitomized by names like Breitling and Rolex.
Arcadia watches displayed amazing creativity for the time.
This avant-garde brand produced some particularly stylish collections, typified by some of its early 20th century models - symbols of Swiss ancestral tradition imbued with modern, indeed contemporary, vision.
But the arrival of quartz was to be the downfall for many Swiss watchmakers, who failed to realize the importance of the 1970s electronic revolution. Swiss mechanical watches were left behind by cheap, mass-produced, electronic watches from abroad. The resultant economic crisis lasted 15 years and threatened the entire sector, coming close to completely destroying traditional Swiss watchmaking.
Many Swiss watchmaking firms were forced to close, taking with them the brands which had underpinned their success. Arcadia was no exception and, over a century after its launch by the Fleurier Watch Company, sank into oblivion.

2010 : Rebirth of Arcadia
Arcadia represents the crowning glory to an exceptional career and the fulfilment of a dream for a man to whom watchmaking is far more than a job. Claude Sanz cuts a unique figure in the watchmaking world: a trained geologist and mineralogist, as well as an expert in setting and mechanical complications.
Nearly forty years ago Sanz acquired Bunter, a firm specializing in the cutting of industrial stones and rubies needed for watchmaking. Today, thanks to their mastery of invisible settings and de luxe, made-to-measure projects, Bunter are recognized by all the pre-eminent Swiss watchmaking firms.
For Sanz, work is a passion: a passion for timepieces, for horological savoir-faire and for watchmaking history. It is also a dream... one he has secretly entertained for many years, to blend his skill and experience with the launch of a watchmaking brand that would write the final chapter of a story that began 35 years ago.
"When you make watch components, you inevitably think about creating your own brand," says Sanz.
But his ambition goes further. As a keen historian, he dreams of pursuing the mission of a Swiss watchmaking firm in the purest mechanical tradition - albeit one adapted to the contemporary era.
In the 1990s Claude Sanz learnt about the incredible story of the Fleurier Watch Company and its star brand, Arcadia. He was fascinated by this forgotten watchmaking venture, and promptly decided to take over the Arcadia brand - which had fallen into the public domain - and revive its century-old traditions. "Arcadia calibres were highly innovative for the time, and the Fleurier Watch Company was considered an international ambassador of Swiss watchmaking," he explains. Today the industry is witnessing a return to small mechanical movements, so Arcadia is perfect for the 21st century! It's the start of a whole new adventure.
The Arcadia renaissance is underway. With Bunter's structural and technical support, Claude Sanz has set about renovating each Arcadia calibre in the purest watchmaking tradition, inserting them into modern cases with sleek designs, made using the latest avant-garde technologies and materials.
A combination of the richness of the past and the boldness of the future, Arcadia aims to showcase and perpetuate an exceptional, time-honoured, heritage on the international scene - and restore the prestige of a watchmaking symbol that was the pride of Switzerland for over a hundred years.

AC01 : Transcending tradition
With its modern, virile look, the first re-edition of the Arcadia collection strides confidently into the 21st century - while retaining the utmost respect for watchmaking's greatest traditions.

This can be seen in the powerful design of this audaciously restyled retro model. While retaining its DNA - rounded shapes for the watch and displays within a tonneau case - the Arcadia AC01 has been entirely redesigned in line with today's technical codes. This new design approach is one of extremes: the watch combines harmonious volumes with aggressive elegance, with visible screws and push-pieces reworked to appear part of the case.
The watch is made from such avant-garde materials as titanium (for the case), carbon (for the split-level dial), and anti-allergenic technological fibre (for the strap), married to watchmaking functions that evoke the awesome savoir-faire of the Fleurier Watch Company: the hour-and-minute display in the centre of the dial is surrounded by four skillfully juxtaposed sub-dials with original, extra functions (including chronograph, date and 24-hour time-zone index). The automatic movement, with 18-carat pink gold rotor, can be admired through a transparent case-back.
Watchmaking tradition transcended! The watch is edited in a limited series of 275, and offered for sale with a revolutionary concept ideally suited to the era of new technologies: much in the manner of an iPhone or iPad, all data linked to the model (guarantee, aftersale service, orders for further timepieces) is entered on a USB key given to the owner and activated on-line at time of purchase.
Another novelty: each Arcadia model comes with a travelling case in supple, ultra-resistant neoprene for easy transport and maximum protection.

WORLDTEMPUS - 22 June 2010

A world's first—this was the remark from Rolex's management when Danish Rolex retailer, Klarlund, invited a few select journalists from Scandinavia, Germany, and Switzerland to salute the "King of Le Mans," Tom Kristensen.
Danish driver Kristensen has no less than eight Le Mans victories listed on his automotive resume, which is two more than legendary driver Jacky Ickx, who ended his career with six Le Mans wins.

Kristensen's position as a natural choice to enter the exclusive club of Rolex testimonials moved Klarlund to stage the intimate gathering celebrating his new official position as ambassador.
Rolex has never before made an official announcement when "knighting" an ambassador, which is the reason for the remark from the Rolex management. Klarlund was only able to convince Rolex to celebrate this occasion in the presence of the press thanks to the retailer's long-standing relationship with the Genevan watch brand.

"Not only are we proud of Tom Kristensen's victories, we are also very proud hosts of such a rare and special occasion," Klarlund managing director Stig Andersen told Worldtempus after presenting the new ambassador with a Rolex Daytona Everose, one of Rolex's gifts to its new sporting face. The other Rolex that Kristensen will receive is a Milgauss outfitted with a green sapphire crystal. These watches not only suit the "King of Le Mans," they are also timepieces fit for an icon of our time.

WORLDTEMPUS - 14 June 2010

"It's not Tiffany's, it's NASA," Mille leaned over and told me at lunch in the President's Room at the Queens Club in London, where he had gathered a few business partners and journalists to watch the semifinals of the Aegon Queens Club tournament in London. The idea was to cheer on his sponsored player, world number one Rafael Nadal, in the semifinals—but Nadal had lost the previous day in the quarters to fellow young Spaniard Feliciano Lopez. The clever saying Mille repeated to me was actually nicked from Miguel Seabra, Portuguese watch journalist and tennis commentator for Eurosport. Seabra had coined the phrase during the French Open the previous week to aid in explaining the significance of the obvious black watch Nadal wears on court to his tennis colleagues from the press. Nadal and the watch have been experiencing heavy critique for the RM 027 RN's price tag of $525,000—a price that can certainly seem exorbitant to the casual spectator.

Indeed, this is an unusually high fee for a watch with no bling even in the watch industry, but Mille explained that the price was actually justified as it is outfitted with a tourbillon and—particularly—it has needed thousands of hours of development as well as a trial-and-error period on court with Nadal for almost three-quarters of a year to discover its weak points, correct them, and make the watch light enough for wear on court (it weights 13 grams without strap and 18 with the rubber attachment). To achieve this lightness and continue to ensure the accurate functioning of model RM 027 RN a number of new materials new to the watchmaking industry such as LITAL, an alloy of aluminum, lithium, copper, magnesium and zirconium, were used. This alloy is also utilized in the aerospace industry—on the Airbus A380; in helicopters, rockets and satellites—and in Formula 1 racecars. Using materials outside the established watch industry like this is a Richard Mille specialty. The company's previous partnership with Formula 1 driver Felipe Massa helped research its extreme style of watchmaking in much the same way.
"This is an extreme object," Mille describes Nadal's watch. "Divide all the R&D plus all the test watches needed by the fifty pieces that are available in the limited edition, and that is about the price that comes out," he explained to me during the Queens tournament. "Whatever I have to invest , is what I invest."

The quintessential divers' watch, the absolute reference in its genre, the Submariner has expanded its horizons far beyond the element of its birth in 1953, while denying nothing of its aquatic origins.
At home in the depths of the oceans, a universe in which it remains the basic instrument of every diver, it long ago conquered terra firma, as the watch of action.
Waterproof to 100, 200, then 300 metres as it successively evolved since its launch, the Submariner has always been the symbol of Rolex's supremacy in waterproofness.

New features
Timeless and impervious to the elements, it is today available in a steel version sporting new features. Its 40 mm case in 904L steel, synonymous with robustness, waterproofness and corrosion resistance, boasts a new rotatable bezel fitted with a practically scratchproof black Cerachrominsert — or green for themodel with the green dial — with platinum graduations.
Penumbra and soft light
As much in its element in the penumbra of the ocean floor as in the soft light of sophistication, this new Submariner Date offers exceptional legibility thanks to hour markers and hands coated with luminescent Chromalight. Its mechanical movement equipped with a Perpetual rotor and a Parachrom hairspring pledges increased chronometric precision and reliability. Its unidirectional rotatable graduated bezel allows the safe reading of dive time.

A power of seduction that never goes out of style
This new model is no stranger to comfort. The Rolex Glidelock clasp allows for fine adjustments of the bracelet length. On land as at sea, watch and wearer are bound by the emotional charge deriving from the Submariner's irresistible power of seduction.

50 years later, this deep dive into uncharted waters not only remains an unmatched record but constitutes a milestone in underwater exploration and in increasing awareness of the need to better protect the oceans.

Fifty years ago, Rolex and the bathyscaphe Trieste made history when US Navy Lieutenant Don Walsh, accompanied by Swiss oceanographer Jacques Piccard, piloted the US Navy vessel to the bottom of the Challenger Deep in the heart of the Mariana Trench, some 200 miles off the island of Guam in the Pacific Ocean. Strapped to the outside of the Swissdesigned submersible was a Rolex watch. A third-generation Rolex prototype of the Deep Sea Special was specifically engineered to withstand the tremendous pressure that would be encountered, approximately eight tons per square inch, at a depth of over 10,900 meters (35,000 feet) in the Challenger Deep.
When the Trieste and her intrepid crew of two surfaced over eight and a half hours later, they had completed the deepest dive ever undertaken by a vessel - manned or unmanned - and the Rolex Deep Sea Special was in perfect working condition. "Happy to announce that your watch works as well at 11,000 meters as it does on the surface", Piccard wrote in a telegram addressed several days after the dive to the Rolex headquarters in Geneva.
Their successful voyage to the still deepest known place in the Earth's oceans not only set a record that has never been broken, but also constituted an important milestone in the exploration and knowledge of the underwater world, an environment that was little known at the time despite its crucial role for man and his survival on earth.
Nearly seven miles below the surface, Walsh and Piccard used the light from their mercury vapor lamps to witness something never seen before: marine life at the very bottom of the ocean, previously believed to be unsustainable under such pressure and in the total absence of light. A discovery that astonished the global scientific community and contributed to increasing awareness of the need to better preserve our oceans.
Protecting the "blue heart of the planet"
"We are very dependent on the natural systems that sustain us. If we take care of the ocean and the rest of the natural world, we're really taking care of ourselves", said Sylvia Earle, the pioneering US marine biologist and Rolex Testimonee who has dedicated her life to the protection of what she calls the "blue heart of the planet".
Walsh and Piccard's achievement brought Rolex and its extraordinary technology into the public consciousness for its scientific value. Moreover, special notice of the feat was also taken by the elite diving community who would come to treasure Rolex watches as essential tools of their trade. In water, Rolex is in its element and the name of its iconic waterproof wristwatch, the Oyster, is no accident.

In the years following the Trieste's "deepest dive", the Rolex Submariner was the watch of choice for the US Naval School for Deep Sea Divers and for the US Navy's SEA-LAB program which also provided robust developmental testing, in advance of the Rolex Sea-Dweller's introduction in 1967.
From the creation of the Oyster in 1926 to the utmost test of its prowess in Mercedes Gleitze's 1927 English Channel swim, on to the introduction of more and more sophisticated waterproof models since then to the present, Rolex has continuously sustained its commitment to being at the forefront of manufacturing watches that resist water and are ultimately compatible with water-related activities and underwater research.
Rolex milestones include: the Submariner created in 1953, originally waterproof to a depth of 100 meters and today to 300 meters (100 feet); the Deep Sea Special prototype of 1960 that withstood the pressure at Earth's deepest point; the Sea-Dweller presented in 1967, waterproof to 610 meters (300 feet) and featuring a helium valve to protect it during deep dives; the 1978 Sea-Dweller 4000, waterproof to 1,220 meters (4,000 feet); the revolutionary Rolex Deepsea of 2008, waterproof to 3,900 meters (12,800 feet).
The world's most noteworthy exploits
Rolex has always been proud to be associated with some of the world's most noteworthy exploits: Sir Edmund Hillary's ascent of Everest, Chuck Yeager breaking the sound barrier, Roger Federer becoming the champion of champions in tennis, the many victories of Arnold Palmer, Gary Player and Jack Nicklaus, the legendary "Big Three" in the golf world, the triumphs of sailors in major races like the Rolex Sydney Hobart, to name but a few.
The integrity of these champions and their achievements go hand in hand with the outstanding quality and precision of the Rolex watches they were wearing and the well-earned reputation of the company that stands behind these exceptional timepieces.

"With a total of SFr. 19,032,388, nearly twice its pre-sale low estimate, the Geneva Important Watches Sale achieved the highest result for any watch auction offered in 2009 worldwide, selling 97% by value and 94% by lot.

In a thrilling atmosphere, almost 900 bidders from 5 continents competed enthusiastically in the room, as well as on Christie's Live and by telephone. The extraordinary performance of this Christie's sale confirms the undisputed leadership of the company in Geneva and in the international Watch market.

A Connoisseur's Vision, a collection of ten Patek Philippe watches was 100% sold, totaling SFr.5,835,600 and nearly doubling its pre-sale low-estimate. Nine world record prices have been achieved for numerous models manufactured by Rolex and Patek Philippe.

Top Ten

Lot 84 - Patek Philippe. An 18K gold perpetual calendar wristwatch, ref. 1526  
Estimate: SFr. 1,000,000-1,500,000  
Purchase Price: SFr. 2,400,000 ($ 2,773,065, € 1,847,781)  
Buyer: Swiss Private Museum
Lot 159 - Patek Philippe. An 18K gold single button chronograph wristwatch, 1924  
Estimate: SFr. 200,000-300,000  
Purchase Price: SFr. 939,000 ($ 934,305, € 622,557)  
Buyer: Swiss Private Museum
Lot 161 - Patek Philippe. A platinum wristwatch, ref. 3448/100, with extra dial  
Estimate: SFr. 500,000-800,000  
Purchase Price: SFr. 783,000 ($ 779,085, € 519,129)  
Buyer: Swiss Private
Lot 219 - Patek Philippe. An 18K pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch, ref. 2438/1  
Estimate: SFr. 500,000-800,000  
Purchase Price: SFr. 711,000 ($ 707,445, € 471,393)  
Buyer: Swiss Private
Lot 335 - Patek Philippe. An 18K gold wristwatch, black enamel numerals, ref. 1579  
Estimate: SFr. 300,000-500,000  
Purchase Price: SFr. 675,000
$ 671,625
€ 447,525  
Buyer: American Private
Lot 47 - Rolex. An 18K pink gold wristwatch, ref. 6062, with gold bracelet  
Estimate: SFr. 250,000-350,000  
Purchase Price: SFr. 597,000
$ 594,015
€ 395,811  
Buyer: European Collector
Lot 380 - Patek Philippe. A stainless steel wristwatch, ref. 1579  
Estimate: SFr. 400,000-600,000  
Purchase Price: SFr. 591,000 ($ 588,045, € 391,833)  
Buyer: Asian Private
Lot 218 - Patek Philippe. An 18K pink gold wristwatch, ref. 1436  
Estimate: SFr. 350,000-550,000  
Purchase Price: SFr. 507,000 ($ 504,465, € 336,141)  
Buyer: Swiss Private
Lot 85 - Patek Philippe. A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch, ref. 1463  
Estimate: SFr. 300,000-500,000  
Purchase Price: SFr. 459,000 ($ 456,705, € 304,317)  
Buyer: European Private
Lot 160 - Patek Philippe. An 18K gold wristwatch, ref. 2499/100  
Estimate: SFr. 250,000-350,000  
Purchase Price: SFr. 435,000 ($ 432,825, € 288,405  
Buyer: American Private

Antiquorum's upcoming 35th anniversary sale on November 14th & 15th in Geneva is rapidly approaching and collectors can look forward to bidding on a wide variety of spectacular timepieces. Highlighting the auction is the world's most complicated and highly coveted timepiece - the famous Patek Philippe Calibre 89. In addition, there will be over 300 exceptional modern and vintage timepieces offered in the Antiquorum sale to be held at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva. Prior to the auction, clients can preview these outstanding watches in Shanghai, Hong Kong, and Geneva.
Lot 364

Antiquorum is delighted to offer the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 from the Matsuda Collection - the world's most complicated timepiece with a total of 33 complications - in our 35th anniversary sale on November 14th and 15th. As this extraordinary timepiece is rarely seen at auction, this is an exceptional opportunity for collectors to acquire one of the most important timepieces in existence. Only four unique models of the Calibre 89 were ever produced; one each in yellow, pink and white gold and one in platinum. The present Calibre 89 in yellow gold was previously sold by Antiquorum in our April 9, 1989 sale of "The Art of Patek Philippe" to commemorate the 150th anniversary of Patek Philippe; while the Calibre 89 in white gold was sold in our 30th anniversary sale on April 24th, 2004.
Lot 361

Moreover, for the Patek aficionado, there is a Patek Philippe "Officier Repetitions Minutes," Ref. 5029. This exceptional timepiece was made in a limited edition of 10 examples in 1998 to commemorate the inauguration of the new Patek Philippe manufactory in Geneva. Sold September 25th, 1998, it is a very fine and extremely rare, minute-repeating, self-winding, 18K yellow gold chronometer wristwatch.
Lot 335

Another incredible Patek Philippe timepiece being offered is the Patek Philippe Ref. 2497 with luminous black dial. Produced in 1955 and sold on June 8th, 1962, this outstanding timepiece is an extremely fine and equally rare, center-seconds, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar, and moon phases.
Lot 362

Additionally, a Patek Philippe "Minute Repeater", Ref. 3979 will be on the auction block. Made in 1998, it is a very fine and rare, minute repeating, self-winding, 18K yellow gold wristwatch.
Lot 185

Also included in the November sale is the Patek Philippe Ref. 3990. This exceptional and rare watch was produced circa 2000 and is now no longer in production. It is a very fine and important, astronomic, water-resistant, platinum and diamonds gentleman's wristwatch with round button chronograph, register, perpetual calendar, moon phases and sapphire crystal back.
Lot 187

In addition, there will also be a Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 with pulsometer scale offered in the upcoming sale. The exquisite watch was produced in 1953, and sold on March 7th, 1955. It is an extremely fine and very rare, water-resistant, 18K pink gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, 30-minute register and pulsometer scale graduated for 15 pulsations.
Lot 358

Furthermore, a Patek Philippe Ref. 1436 retailed by Tiffany will be amongst the highlights in the November sale. Made circa 1969, it is an extremely fine and rare, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with square button, co-axial split-seconds chronograph, 30-minute register and tachometer.
Lot 352

Also for the Patek Philippe enthusiast, there is the Patek Philippe Re. 2481 with tropics cloisonne dial. This remarkable timepiece was produced in 1954 and sold on October 2nd, 1956. It is an extremely fine and equally rare, center-seconds, 18K pink gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel "Tropics" dial.
Lot 278

Fans of Richard Mille will want to bid on the Richard Mille "Tourbillon RM0003". This superb timepiece is a two-time zone, 18K white gold wristwatch with visible one-minute tourbillon regulator.

Lot 298

Another rare and sought after timepiece included in the sale is the Audemars Piguet dress watch retailed by Gubelin. This superb timepiece is a 18k white gold and enamel watch with perpetual calendar, minute repeater and split second second chronograph.
Lot 346

An additional extraordinary watch with cloisonne dial offered is the Rolex Ref. 6100, "Galleon Cloissone Dial." Produced in 1952, it is an exceptionally rare and fine, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel galleon dial .
Estimate:****

Auction Previews:
The timepieces of this auction will be on view as follows:
• SHANGHAI
November 3 & 4:
10:30 a.m. - 6:30 p.m.
Antiquorum Shanghai
Room 4106B,
Bund Centre Office Tower,
222 Yan An Road East,
Shanghai 200002, China
Tel.+86 21 6335 1268
• HONG KONG
November 6 & 7:
11:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Antiquorum Auctioneers (HK) Ltd.
Suite 1405, 9 Queen's Rd. Central,
Hong Kong, China
Tel. + 852 2522 4168

• GENEVA
November 12 to 15:
10:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Antiquorum's Showroom
2, rue du Mont-Blanc
1201 Geneva, Switzerland
Tel.+ 41 (0)22 909 28 50
Auction:
First Session: Saturday, November 14 (lots 1 - 187) begins at 3:00 p.m.
Second Session: Sunday, November 15 (lots 188 - 364) begins 3:00 p.m.

26th October 2009

In the world of watch collecting there are two definitive categories: the vintage watches, typically described as those older than 20 years, and the modern watches, those that are within the first decade of their life.
Sitting between vintage and modern exists a small group of collectible "neo-vintage" watches that hover around the 15-20 year mark. It is around this age that collectors first start to identify the pieces that will one day become classics. It was in the late 1980s, just short of twenty years after its release, that a Rolex Cosmograph with peculiar registers started to gain momentum as a collectable. Now the Paul Newman Daytona sits atop the world of valuable and collectable sport watches.  
The values of Newman Daytonas today range from $30,000 all the way up to $100,000 depending on reference number, condition, and color scheme. We tend to think that we know all there is to know about this particular piece, and so values are easily obtained.
What about today's neo-vintage collectibles though? The ones that are just now coming into the spotlight as the rare birds and grail watches of future generations. Just what are they, why are they poised to climb, and why do we know so little about them?

Let's take one of the few neo-vintage that has already raised a few eyebrows, although it remains relatively under the radar except with a few die-hard collectors; the Rolex Explorer I "Blackout". Since the Explorer's inception over 50 years ago, the vast majority have been made with a black face and white markers, whether applied or painted on the dial itself. For what some experts claim is as little as 6 months, Rolex introduced an instance of the Explorer where the infamous 3, 6, and 9 were actually filled with black instead of white.  
Originally thought to exist only in E serial numbers and with silver print on the dial, we now know that the production also included later X serial Explorers with white print on the dial. The Blackout Rolexes are rare, certainly, in fact some call it the rarest sapphire crystal Rolex to date. What is not so certain is the value of this neo-vintage oddity.
One year ago, in October of 2008, Antiquorum recorded a sale of a Rolex Reference 14270 Blackout at $12,000 US. Five months later, in Antiquorum's March 2009 auction, one sold for just over $5000, and after another five months, one sold again at just above $5000 via Antiquorum. Economic conditions aside, that is a dramatic decrease in value of a rare watch in one year's time. But did the value really decrease?

While impossible to dispute that these watches did sell for less than half of the price of less than a year ago, many sellers continue to believe the Blackout is worth close to, if not well into five figures. Running a quick scan of dealers around the world, the price range of these Rolex Blackouts is astonishing. From as low as $4500 from private sellers (watch alone) to as high as $16,000 from well known European dealers (NOS, Box & Papers), we were able to track down five Blackout Explorers, in excellent or mint condition, with boxes and papers, with an average price of $10,800. Over $10,000 for a Rolex Explorer I from the 1990s, we must be crazy.  Or are we?
Charles Tearle, a Director at Antiquorum USA says "In recent years we have seen transitional variations that exist in relatively modern wristwatches, such as the Rolex Explorer I "Blackout", matte dial submariners, and the transitional IWC big pilots, have speculative presence on the secondary market." But does this mean that these models are worth up to three to four times what a traditional model sells for? Things are still unclear; Tearle adds "relatively little is known about quantities produced, but as we learn more, I believe the market value of these transitional pieces will become more definitive."
While the debate over the value of these rare Rolex "Blackouts" will likely continue on, this raises a much larger issue. How are we to assess the value neo-vintage watches if experts can't seem to agree and with such a dramatic variance in auction prices? Or, maybe this isn't an issue at all, but rather one of the reasons that watch collecting continues to gain momentum as a global passion.  The question now becomes, we know the Rolex Blackout Explorer is something special, but what else is out there and when will we realize it?  
 
 

30 juillet 2009

VOIR LA GALERIE-PHOTOS

La galerie du Jeu de Paume a Paris propose actuellement et jusqu'au 27 septembre une exposition intitulee « Planete Parr. La collection de Martin Parr ». Organisee par la Haus der Kunst a Munich, en collaboration avec le Jeu de Paume, elle presente pour la premiere fois la riche collection de livres photographiques et de photos de Martin Parr, accompagnee d'une partie de sa collection d'objets heteroclites, ainsi que de quelques-uns de ses travaux recents, notamment les series «Luxury» et «Small World». Ce photographe, membre de la fameuse agence Magnum, se presente lui-même comme un « collectionneur, un editeur et un photographe », et joue ironiquement sur le cliche de l'Anglais extravagant aimant a accumuler toutes sortes d'objets divers.
Ben Laden en montre de poche
Outre le plus grand paquet de chips du monde, des theieres a la gloire de Margaret Thatcher ou un slip orne du portrait de Barack Obama, le sieur Parr a recolte une incroyable serie de garde-temps. Montres-bracelets, montres de poche, horloges, reveils, usurpant ou non le logo d'une marque celebre ou le fameux Swiss made, tous ont pour point commun de celebrer sur leur cadran une personne ou un evenement historique. Le visiteur pourra ainsi admirer des reveils commemorant les exploits de Gagarine ou divers modeles aux couleurs de Mao, de Staline ou même de Barack Obama. Certaines de ces tocantes meritent sans conteste la palme de l'originalite, comme cette montre de poche a l'effigie de Ben Laden ou cette horloge chinoise en forme de raquette de ping-pong. Une vitrine entiere est consacree aux montres a l'effigie de Saddam Hussein. Certaines, provenant vraisemblablement d'Irak, sont tout a sa gloire. D'autres, conçues apres le 11 septembre, vehiculent le propos inverse, notamment celle sur laquelle un montage photographique represente un corps de rongeur surmonte de la tête de Saddam et de ce slogan : « captured like a rat » ! La montre, objet de propagande par excellence qui permet d'afficher son opinion dans cette vitrine miniature qu'est son cadran, provient ainsi des deux côtes de l'histoire. Il en va de même pour les tapis de priere musulmans ornes des tours jumelles percutees par les avions et estampilles « made in Afghanistan » qui sont ici exposes face a des bibelots aux couleurs de l'aigle americain exaltant les slogans va-t-en-guerre de l'ere Bush.

Ironie britannique
Le dialogue entre photographies et objets nous tend ainsi un miroir de notre epoque, revelant les tendances de nos modes de vie contemporains. Comme le dit Martin Parr lui-même, « Ce travail ressemble a une epitaphe pour une periode sur le point de s'achever, faite de croissance excessive, de parade et de luxe ostentatoire. C'est une opportunite de jeter un regard retrospectif sur cette periode de nos vies. » Un regard qui n'oublie pas neanmoins la distance et l'ironie « so british » !
www.jeudepaume.org
www.martinparr.com

HH Magazine - # 29, July-August 2009

To judge by its depiction in what Americans call "B Movies", South America would either be a jungle where cigar-smoking drug lords shoot at each other or an endless carnival where women in bikinis dance on a beach while their boyfriends play football. Though one may, in fact, run into scenes like this at some locations, the sub-continent is really made up of many different countries that represent a small but steady portion of the Haute Horlogerie market.
Brazil, the "B" in BRIC (the acronym for "Brazil, Russia, India, China", the four most rapidly-developing economies in the world), is both the largest and most populated country. Whereas most South Americans tend to calculate any local price in terms of its equivalent in US dollars, Brazilians prefer to think in terms of their own currency. Maybe it's because they're the only ones who speak Portuguese or, more probable, because they are the most powerful in terms of their economy (their many FIFA World Cup wins also contribute to their national pride, by the way).
Brazilians have a rich tradition in jewelry, and their top brand, H. Stern, has worldwide reach. The Haute Horlogerie market, on the other hand, is relatively less developed. It is, however a larger market for the sport elegance and sport technique segments: Brazil is Rolex's ber market in the area, and at this point, the brand making more progress seems to be Breitling, who has recently opened a local branch. And even with the ongoing crisis, other well-established names like Omega also manage to show reasonable numbers.

22 June 2009
- www.fratellowatches.com
I don't consider myself a collector of watches, I just 'collect' what I will actually be wearing. I had a modest collection of new & vintage Omega watches in the past, but I traded most of them for watches that would actually see some daylight every now and then instead of the inside of a safe.  
For me, this results in buying 'iconic' watches most of the time. True classics in terms of design, movement, history or a combination of all these aspects. For example, these icons include the Omega Speedmaster Professional, Rolex GMT-Master and (recently added) the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Michael Balfour wrote a nice book about iconic timepieces called ' Cult Watches'. Of course, some people may think differently on what an iconic timepiece may be. I can imagine that there are watch aficionados who consider an Ikepod Cunningham or a Bell & Ross BR01 to be cult watches as well.

Anyway, in the 10 years I have been buying or collecting timepieces, I always envied the people that just have one watch. Like the guy in the Patek Philippe advertisements, having a nice Patek Nautilus ref. 5711/1A, wear it almost a life time and then pass it on to the next generation (or someone else you love or care for). And in the beginning, I actually thought that an Omega Constellation would be my perfect "only watch". Or my Speedmaster Professional. Or my Rolex Sea-Dweller. Although I was able to wear a timepieces for months in a row, it turned out that I kept rotating timepieces from my collection (or buying new/other ones).

On some of the online watch forums, contributors tend to write about their latest acquisition as being their exit watch. By exit watch, they mean that they finally found their "only watch". Of course, after a while you see the same contributors adding a message that they bought something else or something new. To quote Michael Corleone in The Godfather part III, "Just when I thought I was out... they pull me back in."
Let me tell you this: There is no exit watch. At least, not for us watch addicts. An Omega Speedmaster Professional could be a perfect only watch. Or a Rolex GMT-Master. Or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. For a lot of people, they probably are. But we are spoiled. We complain about having no date on a Speedmaster Professional, the Royal Oak being a scratch magnet, the GMT-Master for not being as water resistant as a Sea-Dweller. It is rubbish. Normal people probably don't even come up with these lame excuses.
Would finding a new passion be a solution (or an excuse to only have one watch)? I guess not, because as soon as the word 'collect' comes in, you are lost… It doesn't matter what the subject will be.

Antiquorum, the world's leading watch auctioneer, is pleased to announce its upcoming 'Important Collector's Wristwatches, Pocket Watches, Clocks and Horological Tools' sale on March 28 & 29, 2009 at the Grand Hotel Kempinski in Geneva. This auction will occur during Baselworld 09, which attracts the most prestigious watch manufacturers and jewelers in the world. The auction, featuring 481 lots, brings together a remarkable selection of the finest timepieces by world-renowned watchmakers.

Highlights of this spring auction include two very rare Patek Philippe watches that represent milestones in the history of the brand, respectively Ref. 1518 in 18K pink gold with a special dial with enamel numerals, estimated between 600,000 and 800,000 SFr. and a Ref. 2499/100 in 18K yellow gold made in only 349 examples, estimated at 280,000-350,000 SFr.

The Collection of an Italian Gentleman is certain to attract attention, as it is a very interesting private collection of about 30 Rolex wristwatches highlighting the most significant watches made by Rolex since the 1940's.

Furthermore, in celebration of the Antiquorum's 35th anniversary, the Geneva 2009 catalogues take on a new look. Their special covers, designed by exceptional artists and photographers recognized for their unique creativity and interest in horology, highlight the excitement and elegance of extraordinary watches. In the spring catalogue, well-known French photographer Gilles Pernet brings his own personal vision to illuminate one of the exceptional watches from the auction.

The watches will be shown in Tokyo, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Geneva.

Saturday March 28 and Sunday March 29, 2009 Grand Hotel Kempinski, Geneva

Highlights of the March Geneva Sale   

Patek Philippe, Geneve, Ref. 1518, 1st series. Made in 1946, sold on October 21st. 1947.

Very fine and extremely rare, 18K pink gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar, moon phases, square button chronograph, register and tachometer, fitted with an 18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle.
Probably unique, due to the enamel numeral dial.

This watch is an exceptional example of the signature complications made by Patek Philippe at the time. Patek was the first brand to produce perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatches in series.

Estimate: 600.000/800.000 SFr
             
        
Patek Philippe, la Ref. 2499-100. Made in 1980, sold on June 30th, 1980.

Very fine and extremely rare, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, 30-minute register, perpetual calendar, moon phases and fitted with an 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle.

This watch is the last variation of the above-mentioned complication. It is the last reference produced by Patek Philippe in a very small production series.

Estimate: 280.000/350.000 Sfr
             
        
Jaeger-LeCoultre, "Gyrotourbillon 1", N. 46/75. Made in a limited edition of 75 pieces from 2005.

Exceptional and highly complicated, large, water-resistant, 8-day going platinum wristwatch with visible inclined lightweight two-cage multi-axis spherical tourbillon Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 177, two barrels with sapphire covers, "marchante" equation of time, perpetual calendar with retrograde month indication.

Estimate: 300.000/400.000 Sfr
             
        
Audemars Piguet. Limited Edition No. 8 - Maserati Anniversary - Millenary MC12 Tourbillon & Chronograph.

Made in a limited edition of 150 pieces in 2006 to commemorate the success of the Maserati MC12 in the 2005 FIA GT Manufacturers' Cup, sold on December 24, 2006.
Extremely fine and very rare, oval, platinum wristwatch with twin white gold and palladium alloy barrels, black carbon movement with blue anodized aluminum bridges, 10-day power reserve, visible one-minute tourbillon regulator, oval-button chronograph, register, tachometer and a platinum Audemars Piguet deployant clasp.

Estimate: 200.000/300.000 Sfr

These last two models demonstrate the important revival of mechanical watches in the 21st century, highlighting cutting-edge technology
 
             
        
Rolex, Ref. 6270/6263, "Cosmograph, Oyster avec diamants baguette". Made in 1985.

Extremely rare and very fine, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, bezel set with 28 baguette diamonds. The dial is set with 240 diamonds and nine sapphires, and fitted with an 18K yellow gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet.
One of the rarest Daytona Cosmograph references.

Estimate: 100.000/150.000 Sfr.
             
        
Rolex, Ref. 1665 "Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller". Made especially in 1972 for the Sultan Qaboos bin Said of Oman, and retailed by Asprey (London retailer).

Very fine and extremely rare, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with gas-escape valve, date and a stainless steel Oyster "Fliplock" bracelet.

This is a very rare variation of the Red Sea-Dweller that will raise a lot of interest among collectors and aficionados of the model.

Estimate: 50.000/70.000 Sfr

 The Collection of an Italian Gentleman:

     
Rolex, Ref. 6541 "Oyster Perpetual, Milgauss, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified". Made in 1958.

Very fine and extremely rare, anti-magnetic, water-resistant, center seconds, self-winding, stainless steel wristwatch with straight seconds hand, honeycomb dial and a stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet.

Estimate: 90.000/130.000 Sfr
           
        
Ref. 8171, "Padellone" N°66 Rolex, "Perpetual, Precision". Made in 1950.

Extremely fine and rare, self-winding, 18K pink gold chronometer wristwatch with triple date, moon phases and fitted with an 18K pink gold Rolex buckle.

The reference 8171 is one of the most sought-after. It was produced from 1949-1952 in 18K yellow and pink gold as well as in stainless steel. The excellent un-restored condition of the present watch, including the interior of the case back, gives the collector an excellent opportunity to better understand Rolex production techniques.

Estimate: 180.000/260.000 Sfr
             
        
Rolex, "Oyster, Chronographe, Serpico Y Laino, Anti-magnetique", Ref. 6234. Made in 1954 and retailed by Serpico Y Laino (a retailer in Caracas, Venezuela).

Very fine and equally rare, tonneau-shaped, water-resistant, 14K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, telemeter and tachometer and a polished and brushed 14K yellow gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet.

Estimate: 80.000/120.000 Sfr
             
        
Rolex, Ref. 1680 "Oyster, Perpetual Date, Submariner, 200m/660ft, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified". Made in 1974 for the Fuerza Aerea del Perù.

Very fine and extremely rare tropical red military submariner with Meter First, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date and a stainless steel special riveted Fliplock bracelet.

Estimate: 30.000/50.000 Sfr

Revue FH - February 26 2009 - N# 4

Rolex has announced a new initiative to expand its international philanthropic programme to fund young pioneers and their groundbreaking projects around the world. In early 2010, the company will name the first five recipients of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise: Young Laureates Programme, honouring men and women between the ages of 18 and 30 with inventive ideas to solve tomorrow's challenges in science and health, applied technology, exploration, the environment and cultural preservation. Award recipients will each receive a US$50,000 cash prize to enable them to pursue an original project. Equally important, they will join the network of Rolex specialists and innovators who can offer invaluable expertise and guidance.
The Young Laureates Programme is an expansion of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, which were established in 1976. The inaugural Rolex Awards commemorated the 50th anniversary of the Oyster chronometer, the world's first waterproof watch, and were created to encourage individuals ready to take on major challenges to benefit humankind and the environment. Since 1976, 110 Rolex Awards for Enterprise have been presented to Laureates and Associate Laureates from 40 countries, implementing projects in more than 60 countries. Recent winners include a social activist who has developed an affordable strategy to build housing for the rural poor using recycled materials in her native Paraguay (Elsa Zaldivar); a Scottish physicist who created a breakthrough method to predict volcanic eruptions via an unmanned helicopter (Andrew McGonigle); and a Jordanian chemist working to save the ancient archaeological site of Petra (Talal Akasheh).
«Rolex has a history of supporting individual excellence and achievement,» said Rebecca Irvin, director of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise. «By providing project support at a critical juncture in the careers of young people, the Young Laureates Programme will reward bright new ideas and encourage the next generation to meet the challenges of the future.» Like the original Rolex Awards, the Young Laureates Programme will act as a springboard for men and women who use their creativity to improve life on the planet.
«As our world becomes more interdependent and grows more complex, young people must bring new perspectives and fresh approaches to tackling our greatest challenges,» said Gilbert Grosvenor, Chairman of the National Geographic Society and a past jury member for the Rolex Awards for Enterprise. «Particularly in this era of global change and uncertainty, the Young Laureates Programme represents a vital investment in the brightest thinkers of tomorrow.»
To find young people around the world determined to carry out projects with a significant impact, a range of institutions, organizations and individuals will be invited to nominate potential candidates. Those who accept the nomination will complete an application form that explains the scope, goals and feasibility of their projects. An independent jury will select five individuals with b potential to advance human knowledge and well-being.
Each winner will receive the $50,000 prize over the course of two years. Funding of $25,000 each in the first year will give the Young Laureates the time to bring greater focus to their projects; the second instalment of $25,000 will propel the projects forward. Rolex may also provide additional support to the Young Laureates to pursue a related activity that will add further value to their work.
The Young Laureates Programme complements the original Rolex Awards for Enterprise, it does not replace it. In 2010, five Young Laureates will be selected; in 2012, five Laureates and five Associate Laureates will again be chosen. The two variations of the programme will thus alternate every two years.
Rolex's other global philanthropic programme, the Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative, also reflects an ongoing commitment to promoting excellence in the next generation. The Arts Initiative brings together emerging artists with re-cognized masters for a year of one-to-one collaboration in music, dance, literature, theatre, film and the visual arts.
Both the Arts Initiative and the Young Laureates Programme provide the gift of time to exceptional young people at a key moment in their professional lives. Through Rolex's support, these promising individuals are able to take their work to a new level and contribute to their surrounding communities and the wider world.