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Richard Mille - The Jack Nicholson of horology
Richard Mille calls his watches "a racing machine on the wrist". A tagline undoubtedly inspired not only by his personal interest in fast cars (Mille often races his own 1970 Lola), but also by his interest in exotic materials generally used in contexts such as the F1 industry. Your correspondent would now like to offer an extension to that tagline: "A racing machine on the wrist that makes otherwise reasonable people stop and gawk, want to make friends with you or upgrade your hotel room".
Borrowed feathers
I left the SIHH 2014 with an impressive titanium RM11-01 Roberto Mancini on my wrist, along with a pair of "mechanical" cufflinks, also in titanium. They were obviously not mine to keep, as I do not have Euro 114,500 in my timepiece account, nor the Euro 12,500 needed for the cufflinks (in fact I don't have a cufflinks account at all). Instead I wore the RM11-01 as borrowed feathers - but what borrowed feathers they turned out to be!
Once I got back home I started Instagram'ing this impressive watch and my Facebook account also featured many daily shots of the watch "in action". The response from social media circles was overwhelming. Strangers PM'd me asking if they could pop by my office just to see the watch, and I have a b suspicion that people showed up to my lectures just to get up-close-and-personal with the Richard Mille on my wrist.
The RM11-01 is a thing to behold. The distinct curvex and industrial looking case has been a trademark design of Richard Mille since the first model, RM001, was introduced in 2001. This particular model on my wrist, the Felipe Massa RM11, has been a success ever since it was originally launched in 2007 and can rightfully be considered the most popular of the contemporary range.
Do not however expect any extra attention if wearing the RM11-01 when horseback riding in outer Mongolia, or spelunking in Bulgaria. Richard Mille is not a carpet bomber; his distribution is very focused on key urban markets.
This of course is quite understandable as Richard Mille only produces 3,000 watches a year, and with an entry level of euro 43,000 (for the titanium RM07) to 1.4 million (for the elusive RM05601 with a sapphire case), it is a watch brand for the 1%. Unless of course you live in Dubai, where a Richard Mille is the horological equivalent of the soup of the day on the wrist of the Arab businessmen in their crisp, white disdasha. In these parts of the world a steel Rolex DateJust gets as much attention as last year's second runner-up of Dubai Has Talent. The glitterati of the Emirates get a diamond-crusted Rolex as their first timepiece, and have probably collected a complete set of Patek Philippe Nautilus models by the time their voice breaks.
The Nicholson of horology
A Richard Mille watch is for the guys (and gals) who have been around and who have tried and collected most high-end watch brands already. Their collections are already full of tourbillons, minute repeaters, probably including quite a few made by independent watchmakers, such as Christophe Claret, F. P. Journe and Kari Voutilainen.
Richard Mille may belong to the same crowd of young and indie watch brands, but he stands out. I see him as the Jack Nicholson of contemporary horology due to his laid-back personality and irresistible joie de vivre. His watches more powerfully represent sex, rock n' roll, fast cars and an exuberant lifestyle than anybody else.
Funnily enough the functions of Richard Mille watches are actually met with less interest than those of the competitors in the same price range, even though several of them offer fascinating functions such as a declutchable rotor, torque indicator and G-Force sensor, as well as a E6-B flight computer.
Nobody actually asked me about the functions of the RM11-01. A few asked about the choice of colors and nodded knowingly when I told them the model was named after a famous (former) Manchester City manager who is now managing Turkish Super Lig club Galatasaray. I got the distinct impression the watch could have been right only twice a day, and nobody would have noticed: it's the name on the dial and the lifestyle buzz that gets the pulse up.
But let´s sober up for a moment, ignore the sex appeal, and look at what this watch actually does.
The specs of the RM11-01
The automatic caliber RMAC1 inside the titanium case of the RM11-1 Roberto Mancini offers the standard functions of this model, such as flyback chronograph and annual calendar. Additionally, and in order to meet Mancini's demands, this model also offers a dial design that makes it possible to display football match time based on a two times 45-minute match while taking account of the 15-minute stoppage time.
During each half, a single press on the push-piece at "4" activates the flyback function, zero-setting the chronograph seconds hand which is thus ready to start timing the second half of the match. If extra time is awarded, the watch displays an additional 15 minutes and up to 5 minutes of stoppage time.
Functions and football reference aside, the RM11-01 procured me a somewhat unexpected pleasure while wearing it. I had strangers compliment my watch, floor managers expecting me to throw down a black Amex card to buy half the stock and hotel staff giving me extra attention when I was checking in (not when checking out as I turned out to not splash money everywhere I went). In conclusion, owning a watch from Richard Mille collection is what it feels like to park a slick luxury car outside a crowded cafe and step into it with a leggy blonde holding your hand: all eyes on you. And that thing on your arm.
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Richard Mille - The Art of Time
WORLDTEMPUS - 22 June 2012
"We're building our own case making facility," general manager Yves Mathys explains as we ask about the big cranes visible from the windows of Horometrie SA in the small Swiss village of Les Breuleux. This is the home of Richard Mille and the place where most of his extraordinary watches are assembled. Others are assembled down the road at Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi in Le Locle, and until recently many of Richard Mille's watch cases were made just across the street at case maker Donze-Baume.
When Richemont took over Donze-Baume in 2008, Richard Mille was given a five-year grace period to find a new case maker. In the end, the little company decided to build its own case making factory, which will open the end of 2012, just a stone's throw from the present location. However, the knowhow required for the incredible RM 056 Felipe Massa Sapphire Tourbillon Split-Seconds Competition Chronograph introduced earlier this year at the S.I.H.H. in Geneva was something extraordinary. It, however, was made by a different supplier - and not actually a case maker.
Luxurious sapphires
The cases of the RM 056 are made by sapphire crystal manufacturing company Stettler Sapphire AG in Lyss. "We produce 80 percent of all sapphire crystals in the luxury watch business," head of sales and marketing Hans Studer explains when we pay the company a visit to get an intimate look at the process of making the transparent case of the RM 056. "Basically, we are the main supplier for watch companies producing watches costing 2,000 Swiss francs and more," he says while showing trays full of sapphire glasses made for brands such as MB&F (Maximilian Busser & Friends), Rado, Patek Philippe, and Rolex.
Record-breaking sapphires
Stettler made the 14.3-millimeter thick crystal fitted on the Rolex DeepSea Challenge that is water resistant to 12,000 meters. "We made a total of five crystals for the Sea-Dweller DeepSea Challenge model," Studer says, though he declined to reveal whether Rolex actually also produced five watches for the record-breaking dive of 10,898 meters made by film producer James Cameron in March 2012.
Even if Stettler is used to tough assignments, the case of Richard Mille's RM 056 was something else. "For Stettler it was an incredible experience to develop this sapphire case," Studer continues. "Each of the three parts made of Kyropoulos sapphire takes weeks of finishing and we have a CNC machine dedicated only to the production of the RM 056 cases," he says showing the brand-new cutting machine that runs 24 hours a day in order to meet the demand of the five people who ordered the RM 056 during the fair in January. "The case back alone takes five weeks to finish, which means it will take a whole year to finish all five cases," Studer says matter-of-factly.
Mutual invest
Leaving the Stettler premises, I can't help thinking that one could have the impression that Richard Mille and his suppliers "R&D" each other, pushing the boundaries for modern watchmaking in an otherwise rather conservative business. The innovative and unconventional mind of Mille demands a lot from his suppliers and without their skills, machinery and ? last but hardly least ? flexibility, many of Mille's timepieces would never have made it onto the wrists of their owners today.
Art of time
After the visit to the Richard Mille boutique in Geneva, Horometrie and Stettler, it also occurs to me that in fact the ultra-light RM 027 adorning tennis player Rafael Nadal's winning wrist and its white counterpart, the RM 038 that sits on golfer Bubba Watson's wrist, are much more than just innovative timepieces. They are ticking pieces of art and would fit in just as well at Art Basel as they do at S.I.H.H. in Geneva.
When you acknowledge this fact and consider Mille's watches as art you don't just buy one of his watches. You invest into his artistic and creative mind, just like you invest in a Warhol, Prince or other contemporary art that pleases not only the eyes, but also seem to justify the exuberant prices asked. And as an added bonus, Mille's watches show the time too.
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Dive Watch - A Moment in Time
A Timely Perspective - 28 March 2012
Jason Heaton is passionate about diving and has even achieved Rescue Diver Certification. Heaton, who lives in Minneapolis, grew up around Lake Michigan, where there are pristine ship wrecks thanks to the cold water. He has spent years diving in top spots around the world - in water ranging from Lake Michigan to the Honduras, Bonaire, Sri Lanka and even Boston Harbor (a murky site that wasn't his favorite). Heaton has found way to combine his love of diving with real-world dive-watch reviews for a variety of publications. Here he shares his thoughts with Atimelyperspective on what makes a good dive watch.
Jason Heaton somewhere off of Roatan, Honduras, wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Geographic Navy SEALs in rose gold. "Crazy watch in all respects!""The truth is that you don't really need a dive watch today because there are so many other dive instruments you can use, but there is a saying in the dive world that is critical: 'two is one and one is none'. If you have two pieces of equipment, it's like having one, and if you have one, it's like having nothing because anything can happen to a single instrument. You always need backup, and for me, that's a great dive watch," says Heaton.
Several times, Heaton has had to rely only on his watch when diving. In fact, he refers to a trip in Sri Lanka, where a diving buddy's dive computer died. Heaton lent his computer to that diver, and relied on his watch to track his own time and depth.
Heaton uses his dive watch to track intermediate things he is doing under water, and asserts it's a valuable timing tool, as well. He especially notes that since underwater navigation is tricky, using the watch to time how long you are swimming in one direction, helps you to assess when you need to turn around in order to get back in time before using up air. Thus, says Heaton, the most important feature on a dive watch is a one-way ratcheted bezel for the ability to track elapsed time. Also, in keeping with the ISO dive standards, the watch should be water resistant to at least 100 meters and have minute and hour hands that are distinctively different from each other.
"Additionally, when looking to buy a diver's watch, one really needs to look at the strap. It's the first thing you have to deal with after putting on your wetsuit, so it's good to have a rubber or Velcro strap that fits over the suit, or a quick change bracelet. Divers also want a bezel that's grippy and turns easily enough to set. Luminescence is so important because you need ease of telling time under water, and finally the big clunker watches can get hung up on gear and snagged on things, so a lower profile watch is better."
Among Heaton's favorites: Rolex, Citizen, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Doxa.
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George Daniels - 1926-2011
WORLDTEMPUS - 24 October 2011
It was hard to imagine the watch industry before George Daniels, and it will be hard to imagine this place now that he has left it: Daniels was nothing if not an iridescent figure, often setting the tone of good horological taste behind the scenes.
This might be hard for newcomers to imagine today since Daniels only created a total of 37 watches - pocket watches, no less - in addition to a series of 50 wristwatches completed together with protege Roger Smith called Millennium as well as the beginning of the collaborative venture with him introduced last year. As avid followers of horological history will know, the Omega base caliber powering the 50 Millennium timepieces held special meaning. Daniels was, of course, the inventor of the co-axial escapement that is now utilized in every single Omega wristwatch.
A true expert
Though Daniels began his professional life after serving his country in World War II with the proverbial 50 quid in his pocket - just enough to buy his first set of tools, as the story goes - his drive, ambition and enormous talent made him a very wealthy man. Some of his fortune was acquired by buying and selling precious vintage pieces and selling 35 of his own unique pocket watches, but most of it came from selling what was to become his most famous invention to the Swatch Group.
No two of Daniels' creations were ever completely alike. The next watch was always undertaken because Daniels had another idea to try out, another escapement to experiment with or desired other functions. He invented the co-axial escapement in 1975, but did not patent his perfected design until 1980. After a long search that involved talks with both Patek Philippe and Rolex over the course of a decade and a half, Daniels eventually sold the design to Omega, who needed almost another decade to bring it to serial fruition. Though the patent has now run out, no other watch brands use the co-axial aside from Omega and Smith, who has adapted it for use in his own masterfully crafted timepieces, which also contain other traditional elements of English watchmaking.
Personal memories
When I entered the watch industry, I had no idea who Daniels was. I soon read his opus "Watchmaking" (which was recently republished by Watchprint) in order to learn the basics. However, it was only after becoming friends with various independent watchmakers - predominately members of the AHCI - that I began to understand his place in our industry. One year at Basel, one of them even stood in line at the Omega booth in order to get his own copy of "Watchmaking" signed by the master - and couldn't stop beaming at the chance to meet his idol. Tellingly, François-Paul Journe also worshipped Daniels, even going so far as to present him with one of his own watches last year. For my own part, I found myself fairly well in awe in the presence of Dr. Daniels (he was presented with an honorary title later in life). His technical and industry insights and knowledge were eternally enlightening.
George Daniels passed away at his estate on the Isle of Man following complications arising from hip replacement surgery at the age of 85. A funeral is expected to be held on the Isle of Man in about two weeks' time. Fans of Daniels will be pleased to know that a biography written by Michael Clerizo with the current working title "George Daniels: A Master Watchmaker and His Work" is due to be published next fall.
George Daniels, A Master Watchmaker & His Art
FRENCH VERSION (216 Pages • 240 ill. • Format : 29.5 x 29.5 cm. Price : CHF 160.00 • € 140.00).
ENGLISH VERSION (216 Pages • 240 ill. • Format : 29.5 x 29.5 cm. Price : CHF 105.00 • € 93.00).
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Baselworld - Expectations
WORLDTEMPUS - 22 March 2011
Expect to see hordes of people, nose flat on the doors before the fair opens. These people will most likely rush to Rolex's showcases and Tweet and blog their blurry pictures in order to be the very first to show the new products from the world's most famous watch brand. Even the tiniest changes to existing references will have readers of the online forums and blogs oooohing and aaaahing. Such is the world of Rolex fans - every year.
Rolex
Personally, I can wait for my presentation of the Rolex news, but I do expect to see a new Explorer II. At the very least, there should be a new dial and hand configuration. Rumor has it that this new Explorer II was all set for launching last year, but for some reason Rolex decided to wait another year. We shall see.
I also expect to see an all-steel version of the Rolex Submariner No-Date in the maxi case with ceramic bezel inlay. It would only be a natural evolution for Rolex to add this model to the "maxi case" sports collection.
Breitling
Breitling introduced its in-house B01 movement two years ago, and the famed watch brand has since introduced a couple of models sporting this new movement. I expect to see more models using this new movement, and probably not only B01 and Navitimer models.Patek Philippe
It is always a great pleasure to visit the enormous Patek Philippe stand in Hall 1. Even if you can't get inside for a presentation, the showcases surrounding the outside of the luxurious booth present the horological luxury that Patek Philippe does so well. The Nautilus collection is growing and it would be nice to see a gold version on a bracelet instead of a strap. This goes for the three-hander as well as the complicated models.
Hermes
Thanks to the recent dialogue between LVMH and the Hermes management, I certainly look forward to getting a closer look at the new watches from Hermes. I have never paid much attention to the watches from this company, but the "We are not in luxury; we are in quality" remark made by Bernard Puech, president of the board of directors of Hermes, when LVMH recently purchased 17.7 percent of the shares in the company makes it extra interesting to see if the watches are also part of this "quality."
Bulgari
In one breath, Italian luxury provider Bulgari also became part of the LVMH family when the group purchased 51 percent of the family-owned company. Will the Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta designs still feature Bulgari on the dial or will LVMH break the ties that were such a topic last year? Maybe it is too early to find out, as the takeover is rather recent. But, then again, maybe we can find out.
Either way, this is bound to be an interesting year at Basel. Stay tuned to Worldtempus for the coverage.
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Antiquorum - Important Modern and Vintage Timepieces
Among the 643 timepieces, Antiquorum is extremely proud to be offering for sale an extremely rare Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 as well as the personal collection of Rolex watches of the legendary 20th century explorer Sir Edmund Hillary. Previews are to be held in Shanghai, Hong Kong, Zhuhai and Geneva.
The highlight of the sale is the extremely rare Patek Philippe Ref. 2499, Third Series, made in 1971 and sold on June 14, 1972. This 18K pink gold wristwatch with round button chronograph features a 30-minute register, perpetual calendar and moon phases. It is accompanied by a Patek Philippe box and the Extract from the Archives.
Antiquorum experts are also delighted to present the personal collection of Rolex watches that belonged to Sir Edmund Hillary. These exceptional timepieces have been consigned for sale by Lady Hillary and all had special significance for Sir Edmund.
The earliest model in this collection is a Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, Officially Certified Chronometer", reference 6084 dating from 1953. This watch was presented to Sir Edmund Hillary by Rolex Bosecks, Calcutta, India after his descent from Everest in honour of his achievement. It was then worn by him during the Trans-Antarctic Expedition of 1955-1958 - the first overland crossing of Antarctica and the first expedition to reach the South Pole since Scott in 1912 - and as such it has immense historic significance. The caseback is engraved "Sir E. Hillary".
Also part of the collection, the Rolex "Oyster Perpetual Date, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified", REF. 15238. This 18K yellow gold tonneau shaped wristwatch with date was purchased by Sir Edmund Hillary on the 50th Anniversary of the day he reached the summit of Everest, 29th May, 2003. It is accompanied by the original Rolex certificate to Sir Edmund Hillary and a letter of authenticity.
Naturally the collection also includes both the Rolex Explorer I, reference 1016, made in 1972 - the 20th Anniversary of Sir Edmund Hillary's attempt to climb Cho Oyu from the Nepal side in 1952 (Estimate: 4'000 - 6'000 CHF) and the Explorer II, reference 1655, the so-called "Steve McQueen", made in1973 and bought by Sir Edmund Hillary to commemorate the 20th Anniversary of his ascent of Everest.
In addition to Sir Edmund's collection of Rolexes, Antiquorum is delighted to offer the Rolex "Oyster Perpetual, Precision", reference 6098 that was worn by Alfred Gregory on Everest during the successful expedition of 1953. Alfred Gregory was the official expedition photographer and this watch has been consigned to Antiquorum by his family. This watch is of enormous historic significance and is likely to present the only opportunity to acquire one of the original Rolex watches that were on Everest in 1953. The caseback is engraved "A. Gregory - Everest 1953" and the watch is accompanied by the Ice Axe used during the Everest expedition, 5 original photos taken by Alfred Gregory during the climb, service letter by Rolex Geneva and a letter of authenticity from Alfred Gregory's wife.
Also offered at auction, the Patek Philippe Ref. 3450, Third Series, made in 1985. This very rare, self-winding, 18K yellow gold wristwatch features perpetual calendar, moon phases, Roman numerals for the leap year indication. It comes with a wooden fitted box, setting pin, Certificate of Origin and instruction booklet.
Of interest for the Audemars enthusiast is the Audemars Piguet "Jules Audemars - Repetition Minutes a Quantieme Perpetuel," Ref. 26063 PT., made in 2009. It is an extremely fine and rare, astronomic, minute-repeating, platinum wristwatch with perpetual calendar, leap year indication and moon phases. It is accompanied by the original special fitted wooden box, a piano-shaped wooden box to amplify the sound of the minute repeater, certificate and warranty.
Another timepiece of great interest is the Quarter-Repeating Navette-Shaped Ring Watch - One of Only Two Known Examples - A Gift to The Emperor Napoleon I. made circa 1810. This exceptional timepiece is attributed to Antoine Rochard, Geneva, the mainspring is signed Marchand and the case engraved "a L'Empereur N". This extremely fine and exceptionally rare, 18K gold, pearl and rose-cut diamond-set ring watch with virgule escapement and visible balance, is one of only two known examples of a quarter-repeating ring watch of navette shape.
Antiquorum experts are also pleased to offer a collection 40 Omega Speedmaster limited editions, property of a private Italian collector, including the "Speedmaster Professional" Apollo XIII Ref. 3450022, made in a limited series of 999 examples to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Apollo XIII mission in 1995. This stainless steel chronograph bears the Apollo XIII emblem on the subsidiary seconds dial at 9. It comes with the original box, warranty, certificate, instruction booklet, Apollo XIII patch, extra links and booklet.
AUCTION PREVIEWS
The timepieces of this auction will be on view as follows:
SHANGHAI
Tuesday November 2: 10:30 a.m. - 6:30 p.m.
Antiquorum Shanghai
Room 4106B, Bund Centre Office Tower,
222 Yan An Road East,
Shanghai 200002, China
Tel.+86 21 6335 1268
HONG KONG
Thursday November 4: 11:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Antiquorum Auctioneers (HK) Ltd.
Suite 704, No. 9 Queen's Road Central,
Hong Kong
Tel. + 852 2522 4168
ZHUHAI
Saturday November 6: 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
Gemdale Eton
No. 298 Jinyi Road, Xiangzhou District
Zhuhai
Tel. + 852 2522 4168
GENEVA
Wednesday 10 to Friday November 12: 10:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Saturday 13 & Sunday November 14: 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
Antiquorum's Showroom
2, rue du Mont-Blanc
1201 Geneva, Switzerland
Tel.+ 41 (0)22 909 28 50 - Fax. +41 (0)22 909 28 60
Email: geneva@antiquorum.com
AUCTION: Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces
Saturday, November 13
Session 1: lots 1 - 252 at 2:00 p.m.
Sunday, November 14
Session 2: lots 253 - 643 at 2:00 p.m.
Mandarin Oriental Hotel du Rhône
Salon Saint-Gervais - quai Turrettini 1, 1201 Geneve
Tel.+ 41 (0)22 909 00 00 - Fax +41 (0)22 909 00 10
[Rating: 5 / 5 stars]
Sale Price:US$289.00
Sale Price:US$249.00
Sale Price:US$279.00
Sale Price:US$279.00
Sale Price:US$268.00
Sale Price:US$269.00
Sale Price:US$238.00
Sale Price:US$259.00
Sale Price:US$239.00
Sale Price:US$298.00
Sale Price:US$288.00
Sale Price:US$279.00
Sale Price:US$249.00
Sale Price:US$269.00
Sale Price:US$279.00
Sale Price:US$238.00
