Watch reviews - Rectangular watches in vogue
Perhaps buoyed by the arrival of the Apple Watch, with its rectangular design by Marc Newson, a number of brands have presented new rectangular watches this year, notably with some interesting new interpretations on an otherwise classic theme.
The new avant-garde
Every year during Baselworld there are maybe only two or three watches that grab my attention. As someone who writes about watches daily, I obviously see hundreds, if not thousands, of watches every year. But I can count those on which I would actually spend my hard-earned cash (and apart from very rare exceptions when I have watches on test, I only ever wear watches that I have bought for myself) on the fingers of one hand.
One of these rare personal favourites this year is De Grisogono's New Retro model. Not only did the designers of this watch opt for the unusual rectangular shape, they actually rotated it through 90 degrees so that the watch sits lengthways on the wrist, where its carefully weighted proportions ensure that it sits perfectly. But in all other respects the New Retro exudes the utmost classicism, with clean lines matched with an easy-to-read dial - something that is, surprisingly, almost as rare as its rectangular shape on today's watch market
Tiffany's approach with its new East-West model is not dissimilar to that of De Grisogono. The case has an unmistakable Art Deco look, yet the Arabic numerals on the dial have all been rotated through 90 degrees. Another example of form over function? Try the watch on, sit with your wrists splayed across your keyboard or gripping the steering wheel of your car and you will soon realize that the unusual design is cunningly practical. Driven by Swiss Made quartz movements, the Tiffany East-West collection also offers an affordable entrance to the world of avant-garde rectangular watches.
The classics
Rectangular watches are by no means a new phenomenon, of course, and classically-minded brands such as Patek Philippe and Girard-Perregaux have had them in their collections for decades. For Patek Philippe, the rectangular models in the Twenty-4 collection are entirely feminine in nature, serving as a straight platform that is ideally suited to different levels of diamond setting, right up to fully paved. More stylized rectangular shapes are found in the Gondolo collection, with convex sides for the men's models and concave for the ladies. In Girard-Perregaux's case, the Vintage 1945 collection offers both men's and women's watches covering the full spectrum of watch varieties and complications, including the brand's signature tourbillon under three bridges.
The French Connection
A number of French brands dominate the field of rectangular watches, particularly for women. Bedat & Co. has its distinctive No. 7 collection, among other rectangular and tonneau offerings, while the unmistakable elongated grooved design of the Boucheron Reflet collection has even served as inspiration for other watches, notably the unlikely combination with Richard Mille. Rectangular watches are also a mainstay of the collections of Cartier (the legendary Tank collection), Hermes (where the capital letter "H" is artfully integrated into the design) and Chanel, whose Premiere collection for ladies offers a rare opportunity for women to acquire tourbillon complications with a perfectly feminine design.
Cartier - Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire
Cartier's idea was to invent a creative central display that stems from a revolutionary concept. Designed like an amphitheatre, with the intention of clarifying the perpetual calendar's indications, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's display is a true watchmaking feat. It overcomes numerous readability issues that are specific to the traditional approach to this complication, which requires the juxtaposition of twelve months, seven days, the date and the type of year in a diameter of just a few centimetres.
Arranged three-dimensionally in concentric levels, the display of the perpetual calendar's functions is spread over the different levels: the day is indicated on the first. It is followed by the month on the second, which is itself surmounted by the date. Thin windows move along these tiers. The perpetual calendar's final function is indicated by a hand located on the back of watch and shows what type of year it is: a leap year or a common year.
Consisting of gear trains, the construction of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement is a watchmaking exploit that solves all the functional and ergonomic problems connected with this type of complication. It breaks away from the design of traditional perpetual calendars and introduces an alternative that enables any risk of breakage to be anticipated, adjustment errors to be resolved and chronometry to be improved.
Partially patented, the gear train system of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's 9459 MC movement replaces the traditional lever and spring mechanisms with a gear train mechanism that substantially limits the risk of breakage when the watch is over-wound at inadvisable times. The traditional design of a perpetual calendar prohibits any manual correction several hours before and after midnight at the risk of breaking the mechanism. The adjustments made using four minuscule push-pieces on the side of the case are impractical and never clearly identified.
This problem no longer exists with the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement thanks to a setting system that uses the crown. In addition to the traditional setting of the hour and minute, the crown also controls the date and month indicators.
This ease of use is further increased by the possibility of correcting the functions both forwards and backwards.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch houses at its heart a flying tourbillon: a complication that is emblematic of the Fine Watchmaking collection.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch is certified "Poinçon de Geneve". The self-winding calibre 9459 MC is assembled and adjusted in the new Cartier Fine Watchmaking workshops located in the heart of Geneva, upstairs from the Cartier boutique on the rue de Rhône. Its finishings were carried out according to the standards of the most prestigious watchmaking certification.
Patrizzi & Co - 15 June 2010, Auction results
Sales in the Patrizzi & Co June 15 New York auction reached a total $2,901,850 with 145 of the 233 lots sold. The top lot was a minute repeater by F.P. Journe, featuring Grande et Petite Sonnerie striking chimes, which sold for $400,000. An eight-day duration Cartier Mystery clock with platinum, rock crystal and diamonds made in the 1940s attained $280,000. An 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe World Time with a cloisonne enamel dial fetched $140,000.
"There was tremendous interest in this auction from clients in Asia, especially China and Hong Kong," said Philip Poniz, vice president and chief expert at Patrizzi & Co. "These customers purchased a range of items, from pocket watches to modern wristwatches." The company held previews of the auction in Hong Kong and Shanghai, where the company opened offices in 2009 and 2010, respectively.
About 40 people attended the auction in person with b bidding via the Internet and phone, with many bids from China. Sales of pocket watches were consistently b with models from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Chronograph wristwatches were also popular with models from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, IWC and Audemars Piguet. A limited edition Panerai Radiomir from 2000 sold for double its estimate.
Osvaldo Patrizzi founded Patrizzi & Co in 2008 to innovate the horological auction market by eliminating the buyer's commission and other fees and simplifying the auction process. A Patrizzi & Co horological expert carefully examines and evaluates every timepiece offered for sale, which is then accompanied by a five-year guarantee of authenticity.
HIGHLIGHTS
Lots 94
F. P. Journe Sonnerie Souveraine
Stainless steel minute-repeating wristwatch with Grande et Petite Sonnerie striking chimes and power reserve indication; made in 2007; with accessories
Lot 122
Cartier, Paris, No. 02063, made in the 1940s
Eight-day duration mystery clock in 18k yellow gold, platinum, rock crystal and diamonds; with Cartier fitted morocco box
Lot 121
Cartier, Paris, No. 2650, circa 1930
Nephrite mounted in 18k yellow gold and silver, eight-day duration, quarter striking carriage desk clock with phases of the moon, days of the week, date and alarm with original numbered key; accompanied by a Cartier certificate
Lot 224
Patek Philippe World Time, Ref. 5131J-001, Movement No. 3925148, Case No. 4464263, sold Dec. 11, 2009
18k yellow gold World Time wristwatch featuring cloisonne dial, day/night and 24-hour indications; with Certificate of Origin and original fitted box
Lot 145
Patek Philippe Chronograph, Ref. 1463, Movement No. 868715, Case No. 684703, made in 1953, sold May 25, 1955
18k pink gold round-button chronograph, with tachometer and 30-minute register; model was first water-resistant chronograph made by company; accompanied by extract from the archives
Lot 170
"Paul Newman" Fuerza Aerea Del Peru, Ref. 6239
Rolex Oyster Cosmograph, Ref. 6239, Case No. 1601343, circa 1966-7
Stainless steel round-button chronograph with black/white dial featuring 30-minute and 12-hour registers, tachometer, hours, minutes and small seconds
Lot 27
IWC Portuguese Doppelchronograph
Platinum chronograph rattrapante, Ref. IW371212, No. 248/250, Case No. 2817906 made in limited edition of 250 examples in 2005; with original box and guarantee
$23,000
Lot 39
Panerai Radiomir Platinum Special Edition, Ref. Op 6542, No. 24, Case No. C24/99, made in limited edition of 99 examples in 2000
Platinum special edition Radiomir diver's wristwatch with large date, 72-hour power reserve; with original fitted box, international guarantee, Certificate of Origin, Chronometer Certification
Lot 128
Rolex Anniversary GMT-Master II
Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, GMT-MASTER II, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 116748 SARU, Movement No. 1,697,829, Case No. Z649,070, made in 2006, sold July 16, 2007
18k yellow gold, dual-time chronometer wristwatch; bezel set with diamonds, sapphires and rubies
Lot 232
Vacheron & Constantin World Time Desk Chronometre Royal, No. 368545, completed in 1948
One of only six World Time desk clocks with "mechanism Cottier" in gilt brass and burl wood