Cartier - A behind-the-scenes look at the restoration workshops
The complete renovation of the Geneva boutique might have been a mere pretext - although it does in itself represent an impressive accomplishment, since the surface area of the Maison Cartier has expanded from 169 square metres to almost 1,000 metres, of which 700 dedicated exclusively to sales! That makes it the largest Cartier boutique in Europe, as well as the best stocked, since almost all the timepieces produced by the Manufacture can be found at this address. Nonetheless, its greatest wealth is invisible to the public at large.
Fake walls and true treasures
Anyone fortunate enough to be granted a glimpse of this horological haven must go up a floor and allow themselves to be guided to a set of private lounges - where an impressive security device reveals the improbable sight of a fake sliding wall giving access to the inner sanctum, the Cartier restoration workshop.
The stage-setting itself speaks volumes, for this area to which only a privileged few enjoy access harbours the historical heart of Cartier watchmaking. The patrimonial wealth concentrated there represents the exact opposite of the universe created for this purpose: a single, sparsely furnished less than 30 square-metre room. On the left, a wide picture window looking out onto Lake Leman; on the right, a discreet storage cupboard; and in the centre, two watchmakers seated at two facing workbenches. You could hear a pin drop in this hidden corner of the Cartier universe that is pervaded by a resolutely studious atmosphere.
On the workbenches sit two models, one for each watchmaker. Few tools and no apparatus are in sight to lend a modern touch to the scene: everything is done by hand here. A mere glance at one of the two timepieces gives a pretty clear idea of the issues at stake here: an imposing Cartier Grand Complication watch from the 1920s (complete with perpetual calendar, split-second chronograph and minute repeater). Only two of them are known to exist worldwide…
Lifelong reparability
"We offer all our customers a lifetime guarantee of repair for any Cartier models. Failure is not an option: anything entering the Tradition department must emerge from it in full working order", says Bernhard A. Berger, Director of Cartier Tradition.
The pressure on the two watchmakers is thus palpable. Cartier is constantly enriching its heritage with models that the House buys up at auction, or more rarely from individuals.
These timepieces are often known but sparingly documented. A lengthy analytical process serves to determine their origin in order to restore them to their original condition. Any personal enhancements, modifications or interpretations are strictly forbidden.
"Louis Cartier and Edmond Jaeger were close friends", explains Bernhard A. Berger, Director of Cartier Tradition. "In actual fact, almost all our historical movements stem from LeCoultre, which gives us a solid basis on which to undertake our restorations".
Complete autonomy
To enable them to complete their daunting task, the two watchmakers have been given the technical possibility of identically reproducing any component. "It often proves necessary", one of them points out. "Before the 1950s, no models were water-resistant. Corrosion has often significantly and sometimes irremediably damaged certain parts of the movements. We sometimes even have to remake certain tools that no longer exist!"
The result must necessarily be perfect. Some rare models that enter the restoration department will remain within the House, joining its heritage collection that has been steadily built up since 1983. Others will be put up for sale. Around 300 collector's pieces thus restored are judiciously spread between ten Cartier boutiques worldwide.
Cartier - The panther's claw
Dans la periode de crise qui suit la Grande Depression de 1929, Louis Cartier trouve chez Jeanne Toussaint une alliee de poids. Amie de Coco Chanel, celle que l'on qualifiera de 'Panthere', va diriger pendant vingt ans les creations de la maison Cartier. Bien que ne dessinant jamais, son empreinte et son talent sont tels due la princesse Bibesco lui lancera uni jour ce compliment : 'Vous parfumez les diamants.' 1933: Jeanne Toussaint est nommee directrice de la haute joaillerie Cartier. Cartier obtient le brevet de la monture 'invisible' (dit 'serti mysterieux').Dans le prolongement de l'Art Deco, elle fait de la panthere l'animal fetiche. Sa halle devient une griffe ! Sa quête dl'innovations est permanente. Sous sa conduite, le departement technique multiplie les inventions qui marient solidite des creations et plus grande souplesse d'utilisation. Fermoirs, clips inspires des pinces a linge, broches dissociees, combinables : Cartier entredans l'ere de l'accessoire moderne. Un departement S comme silver est cree, destine a la creation descadeaux de luxe et d'objets utiles comme, les briquets, les montres de poche, les ceintures.1938: Ouverture de Cartier a Cannes. La plus petite montre-bracelet du monde signee Cartier est offerte a la princesse Elizabeth d'Angleterre.1940: Le general de Gaulle fonde la France Libre et trouve aupres de Cartier a Londres une aide precieuse et determinante. 1942: Mort de Louis Cartier et de Jacques Cartier, la maison de la rue de la paix repose sur Jeanne Toussaint et Pierre Lemarchand. Ensemble, ils trouvent leur inspiration, comme hier Charles Jacqueau... au zoo de Vincennes.1945: Pierre Cartier prend la direction de Cartier Paris. Jean-Jacques Cartier, fils de Jacques, reprend Cartier Londres.1948: Claude Cartier, fils de Louis, reprend Cartier New York. La duchesse de Windsor commande une broche 'Panthere'.En 1954, le style Chimere, qui avait deja connu de tres beaux jours dans les annees 20, est repris par Jeanne Toussaint. Elle adoucit et transforme le monstre en un animal tendre et familier. Il est aussitôt adopte par la baronne d'Erlanger et Mrs. Fellowes, clientes attentives a l'art du grand joaillier.
1964: Mort de Pierre Cartier.1968: Creation d'un briquet ovale de luxe.1969: Cartier acquiert un diamant poire de 69,42 carats et le revend a Richard Burton.1970: Creation du bracelet 'Love'.1972: Achat de Cartier Paris par un groupe d'investisseurs reunis par Joseph Kanoui et preside par Robert Hocq. Nouvelle collection de montres destinees a être vendues par les magasins Cartier et un circuit de concessionnaires selectionnes.