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Cartier Ballon Bleu De Cartier 18Kt Pink Gold Dial Ladies Watch W3BB0002

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Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic Men's Watch W5200026

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Review by Luka Grgic, From India Alleppey

Cartier Ballon Bleu Automatic Silver Dial Stainless Steel Black Leather Ladies Watch W69017Z4

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Review by Zachary McKnight, From Chile Santiago/san Miguel

Mystery clocks, with hands that appear to float free on the dial, have been part of the Cartier heritage for more than a century. Today, Cartier has developed the Mysterious Double Tourbillon that appears to float free at the heart of the Rotonde de Cartier watch.

The watchmakers of the Cartier manufacture have employed a disc of sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective finish containing an aperture the size of the tourbillon to give the best possible illusion of a cage in a state of levitation. To do this, they set the disc to support the cage in rotation. By doing this and positioning the minute wheel, which propels the oscillator, on the axis designed to limit the "resistance torque" inherent in the mechanism supporting the tourbillon, they succeeded in transmitting its force to the tourbillon, and thus causing the entire device to revolve in space once every 5 minutes. This results in the tourbillon making one full turn of the open, transparent space in 5 minutes, while the cage performs 5 complete revolutions in the same time... The ingenious way of achieving such a result is to place a rack around the edge of this sapphire crystal disc, transforming it into a large gear wheel that performs one revolution every 5 minutes.

The sapphire case back of the Rotonde de Cartier also reveals a part of its movement, allowing watch lovers to admire the finish of its components and observe that the caliber 9454 MC, with a thickness of 5 mm, carries the Hallmark of Geneva.

The Montre Rotonde de Cartier Double Mystery Tourbillon comes in a 45 mm rose gold case. The watch is fitted with a brown alligator skin strap with a double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat pink gold.

Traditionally and for the past five or so years, WorldTempus has been devoting a bestiary to each major watch show, listing the numerous watches featuring animals of all kinds. It must be said however that the SIHH 2015 was singularly lacking in the kind of creatures that generally thrill devotees of the artistic crafts. Given this marked absence of furry or feathered friends, we will instead take a look at the plant life liberally sprinkled across the models on show. Join us in leafing through a herbarium catalogue filled with vibrantly colourful specimens.

Let's begin with the most (literally) animated of them all, the magnolia by Richard Mille. While the Tourbillon Fleur RM 19-20 is bursting with diamond buds and its dial is adorned with foliage, the real star of the show is a flower. Its broad petals automatically open and chose every five minutes. When the flower is thus revealed to the admiring gaze, its ruby-set stamens rise by a full centimetre, and with them the entire flying tourbillon, reaching to caress the domed sapphire crystal. The bloom then closes and resumes its slumber.

The vibrant and equally animated Hortensia Creative Complication sets the stage for Chaumet's favourite flower, the hydrangea, performing a gracefully pageant. Set with pink sapphires, one of the four central petals points to the hours, while another hydrangea blossom dressed in pink mother-of-pearl glides around the outermost contours of the flower. The floral motif is also reflected in the engravings adorning the case middle of this entirely decorated model.

Despite being captured in enamel and miniature painting, flowers are the living heart of the 2015 message from Van Cleef & Arpels. The Charms Extraordinaire Langage des Fleurs watches reprise the subtly allusive codes invented by the 18^th century French florist Madame Prevost who used flowers to compose intimate messages. The three models evocatively named "Desir" "Esperance" and "Amour" each feature a specific arrangement created in the exquisitely delicate manner of the brand.

The Cartier d'Art collection has become a classic repository of watches with precious dials, joyfully mingling themes, techniques and decors. An engraved mother-of-pearl orchid with red enamel pistils grows on a bed of golden beads assembled using the Etruscan granulation technique introduced by Cartier in 2014. The Ballon Bleu case serves as a flowerpot for this composition, albeit a diamond-studded one...

After a year 2014 distinguished by a flurry of "artistic craft" models, the year 2015 looks set to produce a more modest crop. Nonetheless, Roger Dubuis has chosen this time to make its own entry into this field by exploring the Arthurian legend in a delightfully poetic manner. Excalibur was planted there; Genevieve and Lancelot took refuge there, Merlin lived there… Broceliande was just as important as Camelot and ivy reigned supreme in this magical forest of Brittany. Its luxuriant foliage has invaded this skeleton tourbillon movement and its fine stone leaves grow on diamond-set vines interlaced with the bridges of the calibre.

One of the world's most ancient plant life patterns, the acanthus leaf has been a recurrent decorative theme since Antiquity and remains an inescapable neoclassical motif that Vacheron Constantin has adopted. As their name implies, the two Mecaniques Gravees models highlight the elaborate ornamentation on the movement itself. The mainplate serves as a dial and is hand-engraved with meticulous care in a process requiring a full month's work for the tourbillon version and more than 10 days for Calibre 4400. Likewise, the entire visible surface on the back of the watch is also blackened and embellished with the same ornate pattern. Like a bed of flowers…

A timeless subject of artistic watchmaking expression at Cartier, the dreamlike panther enters the decoration - at once diurnal and nocturnal - of a Day/Night movement that belongs to the great tradition of the Maison's complications.

The panther, over the years, has ventured from one movement to another, sometimes skeletonised, sometimes oscillating, giving rise a creative repertoire to which the latest Rêves de Pantheres watch belongs.

The famous feline appears for the first time in a pack, surrounding a fabulous disc: a graphic, feminine and jewelled interpretation of one of Cartier's most recent fine watchmaking movements.

Driven by the self-winding calibre 9916 MC, the sun and the moon take turns indicating the time, appearing and disappearing in an alternating astral display, a magical spectacle observed by the three panthers.

The watch comes in a 42 mm case in rhodium-finnish 18-carat white gold and is completed with a dark-blue alligator-skin strap.

A 18K White Gold and Diamond-Set Limited Edition Tourbillon Wristwatch with Power Reserve, made by Chopard circa 2007, and Platinum Automatic Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Tonneau Wristwatch with retrograde Date and Moon-Phases, made by Patek Philippe circa 1997, both achieved $461,000.
 

Katharine Thomas, Head of Sotheby's Watches department in New York, commented: "This has been a fantastic season for watch and clock sales at Sotheby's worldwide, and we are thrilled to finish it with an auction that performed so well across the full diversity of makers and time periods represented. In addition to the modern wristwatches by Chopard and Patek Philippe that led the sale, we saw top results for timepieces spanning the entire last century of technical and artistic achievement: from a circa 1915 Cartier desk timepiece that fetched $100,000, to a prototype sports model made by Rolex in 1967 that achieved $383,000 - nearly five times its high estimate - and a massive, limited edition tourbillon by A. Lange & Söhne from 2011 that brought $197,000."
 

Katharine Thomas continued: "It was a particular privilege to present pieces from two distinguished private collections: a wonderful selection pocket watches, form watches, automata, and pieces made for the Chinese, Indian and South American export markets owned by inventor and businessman Robert Howard together brought $1.4 million, while all ten lots from the estate of famed golf course designer Jaime Ortiz-Patiño were sold, led by a Patek Philippe Ref 5004R that brought $185,000.

Establishing an emblematic men's watch in the world of beautiful craftsmanship by creating Cartier's first Manufacture self-winding chronograph movement in its honour. Overturning codes and conventions by combining irreverence and respect to reaffirm a natural gift for exclusivity in a creation that is bold in terms of both its forms and history. Bringing an age-old artistic craft back into fashion and, over several hundred hours' work, creating a watch with a magnetic, animal presence...
This is the dynamism and creativity of Cartier watchmaking.

Calibre de Cartier chronograph watch 1904-CH MC movement
With its b lines and robust case, the Calibre de Cartier watch, created in 2010, has made its mark as a distinguished timepiece whose balance relies on a contrasting combination of satin-brushed and polished finishes.
In 2013, Cartier will equip it with its brand new Manufacture chronograph movement, the calibre 1904-CH MC, and will redesign the sporty look of this watch with a bly defined character.
The b aesthetics of a 100% Manufacture chronograph
Armed with the first Manufacture self-winding chronograph movement created by Cartier, the Calibre de Cartier chronograph watch inaugurates a collection of eight models on leather straps and metal bracelets, from the all-steel version to the version in gem-set white gold. They are sporty versions that toughen the Calibre de Cartier watch's provocative spirit and encourage the wearer to excel.

It is a watch with b design codes: two counters, at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, a graduated rail-track in the fluted bezel, positioned in pride of place on the dial, and above the counters, an oversize XII numeral. This dynamism is reinforced by the presence of the two chronograph push-pieces integrated into the crown reinforcement.

Regaining lost time: an intelligent, precise chronograph
The 1904-CH MC is a concentrated combination of ingenious systems that guide and coordinate the chronograph functions.
The column wheel, the real nerve centre of the movement, precisely and accurately coordinates the three functions of the chronograph (start / stop / return to zero). This system, characteristic of finely crafted chronographs, is visible on the back thanks to the openwork of the upper bridge.
Furthermore, to ensure the high precision of the chronograph functions, the calibre 1904-CH MC is fitted with a vertical coupling that allows the traditional jumps of the seconds hand to be eliminated during the start and stop phases. This coupling system also means that the energy consumption of the chronograph is minimised while it is functioning without altering the timepiece's power reserve or chronograph stability.
The simultaneous return-to-zero of all the chronograph functions is a delicate, complex step requiring perfect coordination. Cartier has chosen to integrate a linear return-to-zero hammer into the calibre 1904-CH MC in order to guarantee the instant, simultaneous and precise return of all the chronograph hands, whatever the force exerted on the push-piece.

An innovative system for exceptional timekeeping
This new 11 ½-line calibre is designed to ensure perfect chronometric stability, however much the watch has been wound. The movement is equipped with two barrels that guarantee the perfect constancy of the mainspring torque over a long duration and allow the chronometric precision to be mastered and stabilised. The calibre 1904-CH MC is fitted with a precise setting system, guaranteeing the movement's perfect timekeeping. This operation is carried out by the Cartier master watchmakers who meticulously adjust the C-shaped index pointer.
The movement's self-winding system is regularly subjected to b pressure that could affect its ability to function correctly. In order to compensate for this weakness, the calibre 1904-CH MC is fitted with a ceramic ball-bearing system situated at the centre of the rotor, which ensures extreme durability.
Cartier has also cast aside the traditional reversers present in self-winding mechanisms in favour of the even more innovative click system. It allows the watch's winding comfort to be optimised thanks to its increased winding speed. Finally, thanks to a two-directional winding system, the oscillating weight automatically winds the movement, whatever the direction of its rotation.

Fine watchmaking finishes that go beyond what is visible
The decorators' endless quest for beauty produces the most impressive results in fine watchmaking movements. Visible through the Calibre de Cartier chronograph watch's transparent sapphire-crystal case back, the upper bridges and oscillating weight are adorned with traditional Côtes de Geneve decoration.
The bottom plate, masked by the movement's components, is circular-grained. The care lavished on the finishes of the calibre 1904-CH MC is a fine example of Cartier's extremely high standards when creating a movement, with excellent craftsmanship that even goes beyond what is visible.

WORLDTEMPUS - 13 February 2012

This is a year when personal choices will truly come into play. Indeed, the breadth of selection is one of the greatest ever, and finding just one trend to highlight simply wasn't possible. This year, brands seem to have focused on offering timepieces that recall their heritage or history, timepieces that are vintage-inspired, or watches that are so technically complex they can only be made in very small editions. What's more, the watches offered are often united by their bold sense of style or ultra-thin, elegant appeal - and black is the color of the year, with more and more brands turning to DLC or even ceramic. Finally, beautiful dials for both men and women take center stage, with many brands offering gemstone accents or special artisan treatments.

100 years or so
At SIHH, for instance, Cartier celebrated 95 years of the quasi-legendary Tank model with a host of modern interpretations. Similarly, Vacheron Constantin celebrates 100 years of the Malte line - the brand's first tonneau-shaped watch was unveiled in 1912. As such, the brand has a host of exciting new Malte tonneau timepieces. Additionally, Audemars Piguet celebrates the 40th anniversary of the famed Royal Oak this year - releasing a variety of stunning new pieces. Many of the newest wristwatches by Baume & Mercier take their inspiration from watches created in the 1940s, and Jaeger-LeCoultre's Memovox Deep Sea Vintage has its roots in the early dive watches from the 1950s. In women's watches, Montblanc steals the limelight with a collection that honors Princess Grace with reinterpreted rose petal motifs contemporarily styled.
Not only is reinterpreted history in the forefront this year, so too is technological prowess and innovation. In fact, some might argue that certain brands are focusing so intensely on garnering new patents and developing new devices that the watches are almost becoming close to untouchable in price. Among such highly defined watches ranging in price from 220,000 to 270,000 euros at SIHH we found the new Duometre a Spherotourbillon by Jaeger-LeCoultre and A. Lange & Sohne's complicated 624-component Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar featuring a patented month ring. Three years in the making, this watch features simultaneously jumping displays.

 
High tech
Some brands at Geneva Time Exhibition, for instance, also offered enticing high-technology timepieces. At Heritage Watch Manufactory, a relatively young brand, the focus is clearly on technical prowess, with such innovative new pieces as true constant force. These pieces' cases and dials were designed by the legendary Eric Giroud and are so exceptional and require such intense hand workmanship that just a few handfuls are made annually. Also at GTE, Cabestan unveiled its Trapezium watch, engineered by master watchmaker Eric Coudray. Named for Euclidean geometry, wherein a quadrilateral with no parallel sides is called a trapezoid - or trapezium - the new geometrically inspired watch offers grand visibility no matter which angle one looks from. The mechanism incorporates a chain and fusee that automatically corrects loss of torque in the mainspring and delivers a constant force to the tourbillon, which is mounted vertically. The decorative side panels and transparent case back also provide lavish 360° views of the mechanism inside.

Indeed the list goes on - suffice it to say that technical innovation is the wave of the future, right alongside watchmaking's rich heritage.

WORLDTEMPUS - 7 October 2010
Since October 1, Georges Kern — current CEO of IWC — has also been the head of Roger Dubuis. Matthias Schuler, named CEO after Richemont bought Roger Dubuis in 2008, will now direct the European subsidiaries of Richemont as CEO Europe Shared Services, which also includes direction of Russia, Middle East, Africa, and Latin America.
The ex-COO of IWC, Schuler has completed the first task of making a manufacture operational that has grown very quickly by profiting from the excellent market conditions that prevailed before having been integrated into the luxury group. At the time Richemont acquired Roger Dubuis, it was considered in particular for its access as an industrial tool — exemplified by its ability to manufacture balance springs and to allow other Richemont brands such as Cartier the opportunity to acquire the Seal of Geneva.
It is the opinion of many connoisseurs that Kern's most urgent mission will be to continue reinforcing the path of the brand that was already initiated by Schuler: to streamline the collection while improving the general quality of its impressive manufacture movements. The most difficult element will be to continue retaining the reflection of the personality that this brand has always emanated, largely a product of former owner Carlos Dias.
Schuler was underway to strengthening the product message by streamlining the wide assortment of timepieces into three main lines, down from the ten Dias had maintained: Excalibur for the most technical and complicated pieces; Easy Diver for the sports watches; and Kingsquare with its "architectural" foundation and trendy coloring. Schuler also retained the jewelry line originally created in 2004 and planned to strengthen it, thanks in great part to a new team that includes a designer formerly employed by Chopard.
Of the 31 movements Roger Dubuis developed up to 2008, Schuler preferred to focus on only nine for use in the streamlined collection. And while the strategy of limited editions is one the brand retained, only the highly complicated watches continue to be limited to 28 pieces. Many complicated gold timepieces are limited to 88, while automatics and chronographs are issued in sets of something like 288. Cutting the number of references not only made the collection more accessible to potential customers, it leveled out production to an area aimed at 3,000 to 4,000 pieces annually.