Cartier - The Choice of a Gentleman
WORTLDTEMPUS - 22 January 2012
The new Tank Anglaise didn't strike me as particularly masculine even though it is offered in a rather masculine size of 36.2 x 47 millimeters. Although fitted with an innovative crown system, it still strikes me as a rather feminine watch. Maybe this is due to the lack of contrasts between material and dial?
Speaking of contrasts, the striking Louis Cartier XL Tank version of 2012 appeals to me much more in terms of masculinity. The distinctive Cartier dial with blued epee hands and black hour markers is so iconic, and it sits wonderfully on the wrist due to the ultra-slim case height of only 5.1 millimeters. Inside it ticks a Piaget base caliber with manual winding. The case is offered in a generous size of 34.92 x 40.40 millimeters and leaves no doubt that this watch belongs on a manly wrist.
The feminine touch
However, the most masculine watches of the Cartier collection originate from the mind and hands of a woman: Carole Forestier-Kasapi. She is in charge of the manufacture department of Cartier and again this year she offers more innovation, luxury and novel thinking than ever - and distinctively for the manlier of wrists. And pockets, too. For instance, the incredible Grand Complication Skeleton pocket watch with in-house movement, Caliber 9436 MC, designed and produced entirely by Cartier.
The pocket watch offers a minute repeater as well as a tourbillon and is produced according to the strict procedures of the Seal of Geneva. When not wearing the watch in one's vest or pocket, it can be left on the rock crystal and obsidian base so that one is able to fully admire the incredible craftsmanship that has made this extraordinary timepiece possible.
Titanium minute repeater
Forestier-Kasapi's mind offers more than watches for the pockets: the manufacture collection of 2012 also includes the fascinating Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon watch, also equipped with a Cartier in-house movement, Caliber MC 9402 with Geneva Seal.
Through extensive audio studies, Forestier-Kasapi and her team came up with the ultimate sound solution for a watch case crafted in titanium - which is quite an unusual choice of material. However, we should never expect the expected from the hands of Forestier-Kasapi. She is a special breed and her watches are too.
"I opted for the Rotonde case for the minute repeater as it offers the best acoustics," Forestier-Kasapi told Worldtempus. "The titanium version offers the minute repeater sound at 68 db and the pink gold version offers the sound at 63 db. The different materials offers different intensities, hence the difference in decibels between the two cases."
With a generous case diameter of 45 millimeters, this new model surely is dedicated to masculine wrists. The limited run of only 50 pieces of this 215,000-euro watch will certainly have a line of serious horolofiles hunting down every single watch. But do not dispair if you are not one of the lucky few as the watch is also offered in 50 pieces in rose gold, which is only slightly more expensive than the titanium version (€ 225,000).
Undoubtedly, the best material for a minute repeater is stainless steel. But why opt for the obvious? Why opt for "easy"? This seems to be the credo of Forestier-Kasapi and her talented team - a fact that this year's manufacture collection yet again proves.
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