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While informal discussions between the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) and a few independent Fine Watchmaking brands had been the topic of countless rumours and much debate over the past few years, things have recently speeded up dramatically. As the event's managing director, Fabienne Lupo, told GMT and WorldTempus: "The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie suggested to the SIHH Exhibitor Committee that the 2016 edition should be opened to other brands from the Fine Watchmaking perimeter".
Alongside the above-mentioned brands Christophe Claret, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie, HYT and Laurent Ferrier, visitors to the SIHH 2016 will also be able to admire showcases from Hautlence, Kari Voutilainen, MB&F and Urwerk. As Fabienne Lupo explained: "The list of new brands that should potentially be approached was established by the Cultural Council of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie in accordance with various qualitative criteria, and then submitted to the Exhibitor Committee which then ruled on each of the names. The SIHH will thus for the first time feature the 'Carre des Horlogers', a new area devoted to nine independent workshops and creative talents representative of 'New Watchmaking' ".

These nine brands newly enthroned in Geneva's Fine Watchmaking 'temple' will benefit from all the advantages of the historical exhibitors and the great Maisons that have been firmly instated there for half a century, such as Cartier, Piaget and Vacheron Constantin. Within a redefined show layout, they will occupy among other areas the space freed up at the SIHH entrance by Ralph Lauren, whose new strategy will now focus on the U.S. market. When questioned on their main motivations for joining the SIHH at the risk of losing their freedom, the independent firms chiefly focus on the benefits of extraordinary worldwide media visibility as well as among retailers. Their union has been signed and sealed for five years, and some will undoubtedly have to choose between SIHH and Baselworld as of 2017, for obvious resource-related reasons. Whatever the case, the CE0s of H. Moser & Cie and HYT - regardless of the diametrically opposite positioning of their brand - nurture equally firm ambitions for accelerated development.

Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie

"When the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie asked us to be a part of the SIHH at first we didn't believe it", says Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie. "But when we saw that the configuration genuinely included us within the SIHH and not in some kind of annex outside, we did not hesitate: as far as visibility, press and retailer contacts are concerned, the SIHH is the same as having a stand in Hall 1.0 at Baselworld ».
With Georges-Henri Meylan (former CEO of Audemars Piguet) on the board of H. Moser & Cie, son Edouard is well-placed to know, for example, that the impact from the presence at such an exhibition was significant for Richard Mille from the moment the brand was included in the very select.
With 100m2 for H. Moser & Cie and 50m2 for Hautlence, which also belongs to the Meylan family, the surface area of the stands is slightly less than that which the two brands occupy at the Ramada hotel during Baselworld, but the latter includes the reception and the cloakroom. The financial investment is big, but exhibiting in Geneva actually costs less than it does in Basel, mainly because of the hotel charges. In 2016 the two brands will therefore exhibit in January and March, but in future Edouard Meylan believes it will be more sensible to focus on just the one exhibition, "especially because our customers prefer to avoid multiplying appointments so close together".
Another consequence of the presence of H. Moser & Cie, which has never hidden its ambition to increase production, will be an adaptation of the launch calendar: "we have revised our plans for new product launches, the SIHH will allow us to speed up our development".

Vincent Perriard, HYT

The young brand from Neuchâtel is not about to abandon its presence in Basel either. "We will have two major launches in 2016," says Vincent Perriard. "The first will be presented during the SIHH and the second, of course, during Baselworld. We want to continue generate interest in the brand and therefore to allow journalists visiting both exhibitions to discover two very different watches. At HYT we don't just talk about transformation(s): some of our innovations are genuine revolutions!"
HYT is only three years old and has only been distributing its watches for around a year and a half, so the news is a great boost to the retail network of the hydromechanical horologists.
"Our distribution network and our retailers have already been informed about this great news and we have received great encouragement from them, because this is a very positive thing for the brand. Entering the history of the SIHH is a giant leap for a brand like HYT" adds Vincent Perriard.

Watch this space…
Tomorrow, WorldTempus will be publishing reactions from Pierre Jacques (CEO de Bethune), Christophe Claret and Laurent Ferrier, as well as a complete interview with Fabienne Lupo. The managing director of the SIHH will give her views on the contribution of these small independent brands, why some were not approached and whether others will be joining them in subsequent editions.

Perhaps buoyed by the arrival of the Apple Watch, with its rectangular design by Marc Newson, a number of brands have presented new rectangular watches this year, notably with some interesting new interpretations on an otherwise classic theme.

The new avant-garde
Every year during Baselworld there are maybe only two or three watches that grab my attention. As someone who writes about watches daily, I obviously see hundreds, if not thousands, of watches every year. But I can count those on which I would actually spend my hard-earned cash (and apart from very rare exceptions when I have watches on test, I only ever wear watches that I have bought for myself) on the fingers of one hand.

One of these rare personal favourites this year is De Grisogono's New Retro model. Not only did the designers of this watch opt for the unusual rectangular shape, they actually rotated it through 90 degrees so that the watch sits lengthways on the wrist, where its carefully weighted proportions ensure that it sits perfectly. But in all other respects the New Retro exudes the utmost classicism, with clean lines matched with an easy-to-read dial - something that is, surprisingly, almost as rare as its rectangular shape on today's watch market

Tiffany's approach with its new East-West model is not dissimilar to that of De Grisogono. The case has an unmistakable Art Deco look, yet the Arabic numerals on the dial have all been rotated through 90 degrees. Another example of form over function? Try the watch on, sit with your wrists splayed across your keyboard or gripping the steering wheel of your car and you will soon realize that the unusual design is cunningly practical. Driven by Swiss Made quartz movements, the Tiffany East-West collection also offers an affordable entrance to the world of avant-garde rectangular watches.

The classics
Rectangular watches are by no means a new phenomenon, of course, and classically-minded brands such as Patek Philippe and Girard-Perregaux have had them in their collections for decades. For Patek Philippe, the rectangular models in the Twenty-4 collection are entirely feminine in nature, serving as a straight platform that is ideally suited to different levels of diamond setting, right up to fully paved. More stylized rectangular shapes are found in the Gondolo collection, with convex sides for the men's models and concave for the ladies. In Girard-Perregaux's case, the Vintage 1945 collection offers both men's and women's watches covering the full spectrum of watch varieties and complications, including the brand's signature tourbillon under three bridges.

The French Connection
A number of French brands dominate the field of rectangular watches, particularly for women. Bedat & Co. has its distinctive No. 7 collection, among other rectangular and tonneau offerings, while the unmistakable elongated grooved design of the Boucheron Reflet collection has even served as inspiration for other watches, notably the unlikely combination with Richard Mille. Rectangular watches are also a mainstay of the collections of Cartier (the legendary Tank collection), Hermes (where the capital letter "H" is artfully integrated into the design) and Chanel, whose Premiere collection for ladies offers a rare opportunity for women to acquire tourbillon complications with a perfectly feminine design.

During the SIHH, a couple of days ago, WorldTempus presented the Cle de Cartier collection featuring a jewel-like, key-like crown, that gives the new models its name.

Following the presentation of the two 40mm models, we focus today on the ladies' versions.
The Cle de Cartier 31mm watch comes with a case and bracelet in pink gold. Its bezel is set with brilliant-cut diamonds. It is powered by an automatic movement.

Two versions come in a white gold 35mm case: the first bears brilliant-cut diamonds on its bezel and is worn on a leather strap, while the second, more luxuous, is entirely set with diamonds. Both are animated by the automatic mouvement 1847 MC.

Selected among over 1,000 candidates, each laureate presented businesses that demonstrate creativity, financial sustainability and social impact. They win the Cartier Women's Initiative Awards trophy, one year of personalised coaching and US$20,000 of funding. The Laureates of the Cartier Women's Initiative Awards are chosen by an independent and voluntary Jury composed of entrepreneurs and business leaders.

- Laureate for Latin America: Bel Pesce, FazINOVA, Brazil.
Courses to encourage innovation and entrepreneurial values.
- Laureate for North America: Eleni Antoniadou, Transplants Without Donors, USA.
Artificial organs for transplants.
- Laureate for Europe: Carla Delfino, Imperial Europe, Italy.
Eco-friendly rodent repellent.
- Laureate for Sub-Saharan Africa: Achenyo Idachaba, MitiMeth, Nigeria.
Homewear and accessories woven from aquatic weeds.
- Laureate for Middle East and North Africa: Mariam Hazem, Reform Studio, Egypt.
Plastic bags upcycled into chic designs.
- Laureates for Asia-Pacific: Diana Jue & Jackie Stenson, Essmart Global, India.
Distribution of life-improving technologies to rural population.

'The Car tier Women's Initiative Awards recompense entrepreneurs whose spirit of community drives them to improve people's lives and livelihoods. They deserve our recognition for the innovation, passion and generosity they bring to business,' said Stanislas de Quercize, President & CEO, Cartier International.

Created in 2006 by Cartier and the Women's Forum for the Economy and
Society, in partnership with INSEAD business school and McKinsey & Co.,
the Cartier Women's Initiative Awards is an annual international business
plan competition for women entrepreneurs. Every year, six Laureates receive
US$20,000, coaching support for a full year, access to international networks
and media visibility and an exclusive trophy designed by Cartier.
To date, the competition has supported over 140 women leading 129 businesses across the globe.

As a member of the Cartier Fine Watchmaking Club, I enjoy the privilege of trying on the watches from the high-end production of the famed company and which are rapidly gaining as much respect as the legendary jewellery has enjoyed for decades already. This impressive feat is only possible because of the brilliant mind of Carole Forestier-Kasapi. She has been at the head of movement development since 2008 and since then been responsible for the birth of no less than 29 inhouse calibres - of which only three were made with help of the renowned Renaud-Papi movement development specialist.

For 2014, she once again has plenty of treats in store for fans of fine and innovative horology. Not only will Forestier-Kasapi and her team introduce five brand new inhouse movements (one of which will be the last made with the help of Renaud-Papi), but she is also introducing nine new models among which the Calibre de Cartier Diver´s watch is sure to be a huge hit and certain to make the male audience look twice when spotted in the retailer's window.

Never forget the passion
Do not be tempted to think this is just another diver's watch from Cartier. It is far more. With Forestier-Kasapi at the helm, nothing is done merely for fun, even though she jokes about "making toys". That is just her humble way of explaining what she does for a living, but don't get her wrong: over lunch I had a long chat with her and asked her what gets her out of bed in the morning.

"In this line of business you need to constantly question yourself. Don't take anything for granted and don't just do things because they have always been done that way. Challenge yourself. Make sure you innovate, but not just for the sake of innovating. At the same time, always respect the past. Like an author, it is important to always remember what happens in the first chapter," Forestier-Kasapi tells me in a very determined voice, making sure I understand what she´s saying and continues: "Never ever innovate at the expense of quality and durability. But most importantly: be passionate. This applies not only to watchmaking but to everything we do".

ISO-certified Diver
With this in mind, it is no surprise that Forestier-Kasapi and her team have come up with a truly remarkable diver's watch. Not only is the Calibre de Cartier Diver ISO 6425 certified, which means a long list of rigorous tests performed on every single watch made (and not just sample tests); but it also features a unidirectional rotating bezel that looks good, operates smoothly, and evensounds great. "The sound of a rotating bezel is of the utmost importance for Cartier. Think of it as the closing of a car door. The right sound makes you think of quality. And that was the sound we went for," Forestier-Kasapi points out, while explaining the 120 notches per full turn of the black ADLC-coated steel bezel, one notch per half minute.

As every watch is severely tested by the stringent ISO regulations, Cartier had to make a robust watch. But even though the Calibre de Cartier Diver can be used 300 meters below water, it is not huge or bulky like many other diver's watches. Actually it is only 1.2 millimetres larger than the standard three-hander Calibre de Cartier, which is clearly visible when placing the two watches next to each other. The slender height of only 11 millimetres has Forestier-Kasapi claim that this could very well be one of the slimmest diver´s watches on the market - at least among the ISO-certified mechanical ones on offer.

Fitted with a black rubber strap or bracelet, Calibre de Cartier Diver (powered by the inhouse automatic calibre 1904 MC) is offered in steel, two-tone or rose gold with a very reasonable entry price of €5,850 for the steel version on strap. And the success is inevitable.

GENEVA, SWITZERLAND, CHICAGO, IL, and RALEIGH, NC - September 21, 2012 - Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA ("Richemont") and Winona Capital Management LLC ("Winona Capital") are pleased to announce that an agreement has been reached whereby Richemont will acquire Peter Millar LLC ("Peter Millar"), a US-based, international luxury apparel business, in a private transaction.
"We are incredibly fortunate to have partnered with Winona Capital. Together we have developed and built the Peter Millar brand, expanded the product range, and grew sales and distribution," said Scott Mahoney, Chief Executive Officer of Peter Millar. "Now partnering with Richemont represents a wonderful opportunity for Peter Millar to continue to build the brand globally under Richemont's stewardship. We look forward to working with Richemont and the association with their prestigious family of brands."
Luke Reese, Managing Director of Winona Capital, commented, "It has been Winona Capital's pleasure to work with Scott Mahoney, Chris Knott, and the rest of the Peter Millar team over the last few years to help build such a great company. We are thrilled for Peter Millar to be acquired by Richemont, the finest collection of luxury brands in the world."
The transaction is expected to close in October 2012 and will have no material impact on Richemont's consolidated net assets or operating result for the year ending March 31, 2013. Richemont 'A' shares are listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange, Richemont's primary listing, and are included in the Swiss Market Index ("SMI") of leading stocks. Richemont South African Depository Receipts are listed in Johannesburg, Richemont's secondary listing.
Robert W. Baird & Co. acted as advisor to Peter Millar in connection with the transaction.

About Peter Millar
Founded in 2001, the Peter Millar line embraces timeless elegance using only the highest quality materials. With a studio and design center in Raleigh, North Carolina as well as business operations in Durham, North Carolina, Peter Millar is one of today's fastest growing and most sought after brands in the lifestyle apparel market. Global distribution includes North America, Europe, Asia, Australia and the South Pacific. For more information, please visit www.petermillar.com.
About Richemont
Richemont owns a portfolio of leading international brands or 'Maisons', which are managed independently of one another, recognising their individuality and uniqueness. The businesses operate in five areas: Jewellery Maisons, being Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels; Specialist watchmakers, being A. Lange & Söhne, Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Officine Panerai, Piaget, Roger Dubuis and Vacheron Constantin, as well as the Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry joint venture; Montblanc Maison; and Other businesses, which include Alfred Dunhill, Chloe and Lancel as well as other smaller Maisons and watch component manufacturing activities for third parties. For more information, please visit www.richemont.com.
About Winona Capital
Winona Capital is a leading investor in consumer and retail brands in the lower middle market. Winona focuses on consumer businesses and brands where Winona sees both passionate executives with a shared focus on growth and an opportunity for Winona to apply its expertise to improve operating performance, create value, and provide investors with superior returns. For more information, please visit www.winonacapital.com or contact Winona Capital at +1 312-334-8800.

The North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking opened its doors in 2009 and is part of The Institute of Swiss Watchmaking (IOSW) which was founded by Richemont in 2008 in partnership with Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program (WOSTEP). WOSTEP is an independent institution that is recognized as an exemplary training centre in the field of watchmaking. It partners with watchmaking schools throughout the world to ensure high training standards and quality education in accordance with the demanding criteria of the Swiss fine watchmaking industry.

The North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking was developed in order to preserve the art of fine watchmaking and meet an increasing demand for qualified craftspeople. The highly selective program accepts six students per program to guarantee students ample one-on-one training time with some of the finest watchmaking instructors in the industry.
There are two certificates offered at the school - Watch Encasing Technician Certificate which requires 640 hours of training over four months and Watchmaker Certificate which requires 3000 hours over two years. The two year Watchmaker program provides an advanced education and training which meet the exacting requirements of the "Swiss Made" standard. Both curricula feature a student-centered learning environment offering the student both knowledge and understanding based on theory and experience. The trainers have a combined 50+ years of watchmaking and teaching experience.
"We are delighted to see our first class of WOSTEP certified watchmakers graduate from the North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking. We wish our graduates a successful and rewarding career in the fine watchmaking industry here in the United States or anywhere else in the world. Being a WOSTEP partner school, the North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking provides its students with an internationally recognized education and certificate meeting the highest standards in Swiss watchmaking. We celebrate today the accomplishment of dedicated individuals who for the past two years have discovered and embraced the craft of fine watchmaking. We also celebrate the first stepping stone in the long term strategy of the Institute: to promote and develop the art of fine watchmaking in North America. Our state of the art training and educational facility is the perfect platform for capable individuals with an interest in fine watchmaking to acquire and develop their competencies. This year, the Institute will welcome a third instructor to increase its training offer and meet the growing educational demand in this field" Said Denis Jaquenoud, NAIOSW President.

 
In addition to The North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking NAIOSW in Fort Worth, The Institute of Swiss Watchmaking also offers programs in its Hong Kong school the HKIOSW. For further information, please visit www.iosw.com Richemont owns several of the world's leading companies in the field of luxury goods, with particular strengths in jewellery, luxury watches and writing instruments.
The Group's luxury interests encompass several of the most prestigious names in the luxury industry including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Panerai, Baume & Mercier, A. Lange & Söhne, Roger Dubuis and Montblanc.

Delices de Cartier is a mouth-watering watch, a timepiece that tempts like a succulent delicacy with its curving transparency, its smoothly tapered case, its twisted oval encircled by diamond links, its dial bordered by brilliant-cut gems and its carefree curves that smile at time with a mischievous touch of femininity.

Chaque mois, Eric Nussbaum, directeur de la "Collection Art de Cartier", presente une page de la riche histoire de la prestigieuse marque parisienne.Attirant, lointain et mysterieux, l'Empire du Milieu inspire depuis toujours les createurs et l'art joaillier de Cartier.L'Empire du Milieu, de nos jours, fait toujours rêver. On pense a l'interminable Grande Muraille, au cheminement anxieux dans le dedale de la Cite Interdite. On entend aussi des sons etranges et fascinants, des airs de "Turandot ". On voit d'enormes dragons en papier - en vert lumineux ou vivement colores - agites dans une foule en fête par des petits porteurs, habilles tout en bleu.De mon côte, j'essaie d'imaginer l'engouement des dessinateurs - createurs des annees 20 chez Cartier - travaillant sur des sculptures en jade ou en agate du XIXe siecle. Raretes que leur soumettaient les freres Cartier de la troisieme generation. J'imagine leur ferveur pour creer des nouveautes liees a ce theme tres lointain, mais si attirant par son mystere: la Chine.

Chefs-d'œuvre d'horlogerie

Eric Nussbaum