Jaeger-LeCoultre - Aston Martin - The AMVOX7 Chronograph
Developed by the Manufacture from the Vallee de Joux, the AMVOX line has for almost a decade been appealing as much to devotees of fine watchmaking as to motor sports fans. The AMVOX7 Chronograph displays the signature characteristics of an iconic collection within a new case featuring an even more ergonomic shape, and testifies to the avant-garde spirit of an alliance entirely dedicated to aesthetic and technical innovation, inspired by the prestigious British car maker.
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Refined design serving intuitive functions
Before inviting closer inspection, the AMVOX7 Chronograph immediately draws the gaze to the motif adorning its dial and featuring the pattern of the radiator grille of the Vanquish, the brand-new model unveiled by Aston Martin last June. Nonetheless, this obvious similarity served as a background canvas against which to undertake formal research entirely in tune with the technical characteristics of the watch. The Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers and artisans have devoted particular care to creating refined decorations. The diversity of the finishes enhancing the various surfaces lends remarkable visual depth to a black dial with anthracite grey counters featuring red and white accents ensuring optimal readability.
A new function makes its entry into the AMVOX line: the radial power-reserve display. On the AMVOX7 Chronograph, this indication appears through two apertures in the upper part of the inner bezel ring, on either side of the black dial. When the watch is wound, the red powerreserve discs draw closer as if to embrace the 12 o'clock numeral, and as the barrel winds down, they disappear again in order to gradually reveal the chronograph levers. Once again, this instinctively perceived display mode is entirely in tune with the sense of immediacy created by a sporty driving mode.
The grade 5 titanium case is enhanced by supremely refined technical finishes. The bevels of the lugs are meticulously polished, while the ornamentation of the crown and the trigger are distinguished by alternating shotpeened, polished and satin-brushed surfaces. Finally, the case middle and the underside of the lugs are delicately horizontally satin-brushed.
In 2005, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the brand-new vertical-trigger chronograph. It represented the first intuitive technique serving to measure short time intervals. Before the start of an event, the user no longer needs to hold the push-piece down in order to ensure instant activation of a race start, because a simple press on the watch glass is enough to pivot the case along its horizontal axis and thus immediately start a new measurement. Like all revolutionary inventions, this system appeared so simple that sports enthusiasts keen to time the progress of their performances already wondered how they could have done without it. A press at 12 o'clock starts or stops the chronograph mechanism, while the same operation performed on the lower end of the dial resets the chronograph hand to zero. To avoid any inadvertent handling, a trigger located on the side of the case serves as a control lever: when placed in its central position, all the chronograph functions operate according to the above description. Conversely, the locked position, when it is pushed upwards, blocks the chronograph, while the lower position serves to start or stop the chronograph, but also to deactivate the resetting function.
This intuitive immediately is not confined exclusively to the watch mechanism, but also extends to the displays. The chronograph counters on the openworked black dial appear in anthracite grey, the two colours making a perfect contrast with the white hands and numerals. The everuseful movement operating indicator occupies the lower part of the dial, above the date window at 6 o'clock.
Technology to match the aesthetics
Moreover, the bodywork of this high-tech device built for fine performances has also been the object of meticulous care, and the case of the AMVOX has been given a complete facelift. It now incorporates lugs in the shape of a monobloc construction that enabled improved integration of the strap to ensure an optimally ergonomic fit. The crown has undergone a similar evolution: also integrated into the case, it now offers the two-fold advantage of an easier grip and more accurate handling. However essential, these characteristics must nonetheless not divert attention from a crucial breakthrough achieved by the subtle change in the shape of the case in order to facilitate improved positioning on the wrist. The addition of a new element on the case-back enables the wristband to maintain a perfect curve and thus guarantee the ergonomic fit of the watch on the forearm. This proves a decisive asset on the road as well as in other situations of daily life where even the slightest discomfort may be a hindrance to taking immediate and appropriate decisions.
For both Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin, it would have been inconceivable to stop there. While others might have been satisfied with the result achieved, the development team of the AMVOX7 Chronograph further enriched this prodigious range of innovations with a system enabling quick and easy wristband change according to the mood and the needs of the moment: a metal bracelet will prove a worthy companion for sporting feats and outdoor activities, while the sobriety of its leather counterpart will accentuate the distinction of a watch that smoothly adapts to the most elegant circumstances.
Such sterling qualities call for an "engine" endowed with characteristics on a par with the expectations generated by such an impressive appearance. In this field too, connoisseurs will appreciate the Jaeger-LeCoultre mechanical automatic Calibre 756. With its frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and its 65-hour power reserve, it displays an impressive track record in terms of sturdiness, reliability and precision. What else would one indeed expect from a mechanism of which the performances will necessarily be compared with those of the new Aston Martin Vanquish?
An association is fuelled exclusively by the momentum injected into it by each of the two partners. While it may seem simple for a prestigious watch brand to enter into an alliance with a renowned car manufacturer, the flame of enthusiasm unanimously sensed when signing such an agreement soon dwindles to nothing in the absence of shared values. The partnership between Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Marin is more vibrantly alive than ever as it enters its eighth year. This association has already given rise to some exceptional creations embodying major progress in the field of technology. The secret of this long-term success is firmly based on a shared vision, nurtured from both sides by an authentic passion for innovation.
Ralph Lauren - When watchmaking spells adventures
GMT XXL - Summer 2012
It's time to set off for the great African plains at the wheel of a jeep with the all-new Sporting Safari RL67 chronograph, equipped with the selfwinding RL 750 movement developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre for Ralph Lauren. The Safari ambience has been an integral part of the Ralph Lauren world since 1984 - a year before the cult film Out of Africa was released - when the designer presented his first fashion collection on this theme. Highlighting its use of original materials, the new watch creation brilliantly combines design, innovation and expertise. Fitted with a washed out olive green canvas strap lined with leather, it displays the hours, minutes, small seconds and chronograph functions on a matte varnished black dial enhanced with white, a luminescent substance and a shiny orange accent, framed by a truly astonishing case. Available in 39 and 45 millimetre diameters, it features a rugged surface ranging from deep grey to intense black - a unique aesthetic achieved by hand-made fi nishes performed by a master artisan on each of the components. The chemical and thermal treatment applied to steel is one generally used in the fi eld of weaponry. In addition to the gunmetal eff ect, this innovative treatment substantially increases the durability of steel, making it harder than that generally used for watch cases.
The gunmetal finishes calls for extreme precision and a concern for detail worthy of the most advanced watchmaking techniques. The innovative procedure stems from a lengthy, demanding and delicate process associating cutting-edge technologies with hand-crafted expertise. Ralph Lauren has borrowed the technique from the weaponry industry and has ensured its compatibility with contemporary watchmaking standards. The high-precision tools used at each stage to endow the model with its distinctive character are individually hand-crafted. Each of the watch components - case, bezel, crown, pushers, screw and buckle - are in turn sandblasted, shotpeened, brushed, polished and chamfered. This treatment serves to create satin-brushed and matte surface eff ects as well as subtle nuances ranging from anthracite grey to deep black. The Gunmetal finish that lends the Sporting Safari RL67 its exceptional character reveals perfect technical mastery fi rmly establishing the watchmaking spirit of the House.
Driven by a passionate interest in style and in watchmaking, Ralph Lauren designs watches imbued with b character and spread between four collections : Stirrup, Slim Classique, 867 and Sporting - the latter being the vehicle through which he likes to express another of his passions : automobiles. The interior of one of his collector's cars, a 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe, inspired him to create a dial enhanced with genuine elm burl. This precious wood, a signature feature on upscale car dashboards, off ers a striking contrast with the galvanized black base of the display zone of the Sporting Automotive model. In 2012, it appears with a steel bracelet making a perfect match with the masculine lines of the round case studded with six screws. The hand-wound RL 98295 movement powering it was developed for Ralph Lauren by IWC.
With the Sporting Chronograph Black Ceramic, Ralph Lauren turns the spotlight on the world of competition. This model is made from zircon ceramics, a light and highly resistant high-tech material that makes it as comfortable as it is scratch-resistant. The new models feature the vivid shades of racing colors through rows of bright red or yellow links running along the center of the bracelets. These chronographs are equipped with self-winding Caliber RL 750 developed for Ralph Lauren by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
The imprint of time-honored expertise
Since its launch in 2009, the House of Ralph Lauren has chosen to ennoble its collections by highlighting the ancient engraving technique known as guillochage. Initially introduced in its Slim Classique line, it now also appears on other models. Adorned with a complex pattern of 80 waves spiraling outward from the dial center, this emblematic "barleycorn" motif extends over the curves of the bezel.
The Ralph Lauren Sporting Chronograph Guilloche now pursues the path forged by the Slim Classique and 867 by combining the art of hand guilloche decoration with the material that best symbolizes the 20th century : steel. Off ering a powerful evocation of sporting elegance, this chronograph features a resolutely more classic and timeless aesthetic.
Guillochage calls for the mastery of a guilloche lathe or "rose engine" that the master engraver uses to create extremely complex and regular patterns. This work is performed by highly qualified artisans who gain complete mastery of this skill through many years of practice. First used in the 18th century, guillochage is a painstaking and demanding procedure. The part to be worked is carefully fitted on the lathe. Guides known as rosettes are then used to help the craftsman's hand to direct the tip of the burin or graver as it moves over the dial or case. It is the artisan who controls the rotation speed and the pressure exercised by the tool. Precision, regularity and absolute concentration are essential in order to guarantee the fl awless excellence of the motif and the depth of the engraving. The artisan follows the process extremely closely, generally by means of a powerful magnifying glass or a lower-power binocular microscope. A technique that calls for patience and close attention, an art that tolerates no compromise.
The art of guillochage is so rare that only a handful of skilled artisans still exercise this ageold technique. Ralph Lauren guilloche watches are distinguished by their original and unique decor. In the dial center, a "barleycorn" guilloche motif is created in a series or regular interwoven waves, radiating outward like concentric circles. These are exactly the kind of details that set the signature touch of true perfection.
[Rating: 5 / 5 stars]
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