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Top Quality Cartier Automatic Watches (259) Items
Top Quality Cartier Automatic Watches (259) Items

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  • GMT Summer - Summer on the wrist

    The world's happiest country, Switzerland exports its happiness around the world with a blend of generosity (despite the b Swiss franc!) and precision. Under the impetus of the United States, researchers at Columbia University in New York have drawn up a "World Happiness Report" ranking of 158 countries currently topped by Switzerland (up from third place in 2013), which scored a 7.6/10 rate of satisfaction. One or several watchmakers will doubtless offer a limited series on this key theme.

    On a more general and indeed philosophical level, wearing the colors of happiness on the wrist is certainly appealing. Housing within personal bodily territory a "micro-embassy" of the serene country of smiles should be a source of delight that encourages people to treat others or themselves to such an experience. The Swiss National Tourist Office could choose to draw inspiration from it, as indeed could retailers.

    We have granted this precious time in abundance to photographer Christian Pfahl to immortalize watchmaking DNA in Geneva architecture across all four seasons. Such is the concept behind the exhibition comprising 24 photographic works on show at the Cite du Temps in Geneva until August 16th (gallery picked over a four-week period on WorldTempus and its networks).

    Other highlights of this GMT reflecting the 1001 facets of the 12th Art include interviews with Nicola Andreatta (Tiffany) and Marc Hayek (Breguet, Blancpain, Jaquet Droz), a Test Bench on the Rotonde GMT by Cartier, a study of the Lady 8 by Jaquet Droz viewed by Axel Leuzinger, a "coiled to spring" article in our Innovation section, and a look at why the movement costs what it does. A wealth of creations waiting to be discovered in this passport to pleasure, whose digital version transcends all borders on worldtempus.com.
    The entire magazine is now available from Swiss and digital newsstands, here and there.

  • Cartier - Introducing Calibre de Cartier Diver, to be launched in 2014

    As a member of the Cartier Fine Watchmaking Club, I enjoy the privilege of trying on the watches from the high-end production of the famed company and which are rapidly gaining as much respect as the legendary jewellery has enjoyed for decades already. This impressive feat is only possible because of the brilliant mind of Carole Forestier-Kasapi. She has been at the head of movement development since 2008 and since then been responsible for the birth of no less than 29 inhouse calibres - of which only three were made with help of the renowned Renaud-Papi movement development specialist.

    For 2014, she once again has plenty of treats in store for fans of fine and innovative horology. Not only will Forestier-Kasapi and her team introduce five brand new inhouse movements (one of which will be the last made with the help of Renaud-Papi), but she is also introducing nine new models among which the Calibre de Cartier Diver´s watch is sure to be a huge hit and certain to make the male audience look twice when spotted in the retailer's window.

    Never forget the passion
    Do not be tempted to think this is just another diver's watch from Cartier. It is far more. With Forestier-Kasapi at the helm, nothing is done merely for fun, even though she jokes about "making toys". That is just her humble way of explaining what she does for a living, but don't get her wrong: over lunch I had a long chat with her and asked her what gets her out of bed in the morning.

    "In this line of business you need to constantly question yourself. Don't take anything for granted and don't just do things because they have always been done that way. Challenge yourself. Make sure you innovate, but not just for the sake of innovating. At the same time, always respect the past. Like an author, it is important to always remember what happens in the first chapter," Forestier-Kasapi tells me in a very determined voice, making sure I understand what she´s saying and continues: "Never ever innovate at the expense of quality and durability. But most importantly: be passionate. This applies not only to watchmaking but to everything we do".

    ISO-certified Diver
    With this in mind, it is no surprise that Forestier-Kasapi and her team have come up with a truly remarkable diver's watch. Not only is the Calibre de Cartier Diver ISO 6425 certified, which means a long list of rigorous tests performed on every single watch made (and not just sample tests); but it also features a unidirectional rotating bezel that looks good, operates smoothly, and evensounds great. "The sound of a rotating bezel is of the utmost importance for Cartier. Think of it as the closing of a car door. The right sound makes you think of quality. And that was the sound we went for," Forestier-Kasapi points out, while explaining the 120 notches per full turn of the black ADLC-coated steel bezel, one notch per half minute.

    As every watch is severely tested by the stringent ISO regulations, Cartier had to make a robust watch. But even though the Calibre de Cartier Diver can be used 300 meters below water, it is not huge or bulky like many other diver's watches. Actually it is only 1.2 millimetres larger than the standard three-hander Calibre de Cartier, which is clearly visible when placing the two watches next to each other. The slender height of only 11 millimetres has Forestier-Kasapi claim that this could very well be one of the slimmest diver´s watches on the market - at least among the ISO-certified mechanical ones on offer.

    Fitted with a black rubber strap or bracelet, Calibre de Cartier Diver (powered by the inhouse automatic calibre 1904 MC) is offered in steel, two-tone or rose gold with a very reasonable entry price of €5,850 for the steel version on strap. And the success is inevitable.

  • Cartier - Signed Cartier, naturally

    Since its creation in 1917, the Tank watch collection has been constantly extended and 2013 sees the birth of a new almost square version that is more masculine than ever. Named Tank MC for Manufacture Cartier, it comes in steel, pink gold or High Jewellery versions equipped with Calibre 1904 MC, the first in-house developed self-winding movement, as well as in a Fine Watchmaking version with a palladium case and an openworked hand-wound movement, Calibre 9211 MC.

    Launched in 2009 among the first movements from the Manufacture Cartier, Calibre 9611 MC features an original architecture perfectly representative of the House style. The characteristic Roman numerals found on a number of dials appear here on the movement itself. Their presence is much more than a mere exercise in style, since they actually form the baseplate and the bridges from which the calibre's functional parts are suspended. Incorporating a display within the structure of the movement represents a world-first achievement for which a patent has been filed. This exclusive watch is a hand-wound model endowed with twin barrels guaranteeing a 72-hour power reserve. Its delicate hand finishing - bevelled bridges, satin-brushed flanks, hand-drawn faces and circular satin-brushed wheels - may be admired through the two sapphire crystals on either side of the new Tank MC.
    Before powering the Tank MC, Calibre 911 MC drove a Santos 100 and a Santos Dumont. The 9612 MC and 9614 MC versions, also presented in Santos Dumont models, were distinguished by the anthracite or pink gold colour of their numerals. Moreover, the concept was echoed in round-shaped flying tourbillon movements on versions featuring Roman numerals for Calibres 9453 MC and 9455 MC of the Rotonde collection and Arabic numerals for Calibre 9557 MC in the Pasha collection.
     


    An aura of mystery
    A longstanding speciality of Cartier, 'mysterious hours' have been interpreted in numerous splendid ways through a perpetually renewed collection of precious clocks. They are now featured in an entirely innovative Rotonde wristwatch. The hands, which appear to be floating freely with no apparent connection to the movement, are driven by sapphire discs that are made to turn on slender pivots rather than in guide grooves. This system keeps both friction and energy consumption to a minimum. A peripheral gear wheel made using high-precision DRIE (Deep Reactive Ion Etching) technology and involving three-dimensional growth of the metal, optimises the inertia of the large-diameter discs. Calibre 9981 MC boasts a modular construction that facilitates final assembly: the movement itself, mounted in a crescent shape on the baseplate, and the display module placed in a circular space that is left free, are separately made before being fitted together. To preserve the aura of mystery, Cartier refrains from revealing all. While most of the components are visible through the sapphire case-back of the Rotonde Mystery Watch, the connection between the movement and the module remains resolutely invisible - a nod to Louis Cartier who had demanded that the modus operandi of the mysterious clocks should remain secret and not be revealed even to salespersons.
     

    Likewise, the double tourbillon housed in Calibre 9454 MC also remains shrouded in mystery. The magical effect is further accentuated by a rotating sapphire disc with a tourbillon-shaped opening. Not only does the flying-type tourbillon carriage spin on its axis once a minute, as in a classic tourbillon construction, but the entire device performs a five-minute rotation within the transparent space accommodating it - and all this naturally in the absence of any apparent connection with any gear wheels! It truly appears to be levitating. The trick actually lies in a rack-and-pinion mechanism fitted on the edge of the sapphire plate that transforms it into a toothed wheel. The choice of a five-minute rotation was determined by a wish to minimise the consumption of energy - which would have been 25 times great for a 1-minute rotation. With the Rotonde de Cartier Double Mystery Tourbillon Watch, Cartier once again demonstrates its capacity to create true signature movements that are recognisable at first glance.

  • 12th ART - Horology in the art of time

    A 12th art with such a wide range of activities, that with discreet little touches or sometimes in a highly eloquent manner, it sums up the 11 preceding disciplines to have earned this rank. Continuing the series initiated by GMT in April, let's look at the close links that watchmaking has with the world of art, particularly through the first five as defined by the philosopher, Hegel.

    1ST ART : ARCHITECTURE

    The connection between art and architecture is often disconcertingly obvious. How many timepieces use the same aesthetic language as illustrious architectural monuments? The resemblance is sometimes striking, like Harry Winston's Opus 12 whose iconic arches are a reminder of the neo-classical arch which dominates the famous façade of the Harry Winston Salon in New York and whose open-worked hands are a nod to the Manhattan skyscrapers. Or De Bethune's DB28 ST watch, featuring an architecture - that would be hard to describe in any other way - is strangely reminiscent of a Gothic ribbed vault. One also naturally thinks of Urwerk watches with their highly technical dial construction - and indeed of all the watches that share identical vocabulary with architecture. Do not both these arts share a variety of terms including bridges, hinges, pinions, pillars, studs and fluting?


    2ND ART : SCULPTURE

    Take a good look at Chopard's L.U.C XP Skeletec. Gaze attentively at the Jackie Chan model by Richard Mille and its dragon carved in gold. Do you not see true miniature sculptures here ? Engraved, chased, guilloche, or simply sculpted, Fine Watchmaking timepieces borrow their aesthetics from the second art, as well as its technique. Entirely in tune with our times in which the beauty and the precision of human gestures supersede all other considerations relating to watch production, today's timepieces, like those of yesteryear, proudly showcase their reliefs, their volumes and their harmonious curves.


    3RD ART : PAINTING

    Worn around the neck, on the collar of women's dresses, in the waistband of a belt or at the end of a chain hung over a waistcoat: for a long time, other than its main function of providing the time, the watch was also designed as a fashion accessory. Decoration, and by extension painting on cases or dials, was also a lastingly important element in watchmaking.

    Brands continue to present models that derive their splendour from painting. As rich as that of a painter, the colour palette of DeLaneau's Cerisier collection consists of miniature paintings with highly poetic notes. Another example that emphasises the b links with the 3rd and 4th arts is that of Vacheron Constantin, which in 2011 presented a beautiful Metiers d'Art piece entitled "Chagall & l'Opera de Paris" inspired by the monumental fresco adorning the ceiling of the Opera Garnier.


    4TH ART : MUSIC

    The music of the passing of time is a commonly evoked theme. One need only recall the incessant ticking by of the seconds. Time is inseparably entwined with music, and in fact governs it. With each note bearing a different value, even the smallest tune is subject to time. Conversely, the passing of time is also expressed in a musical manner. One naturally thinks of the incredible complication represented by the minute repeater, interpreted through models such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Repetition Minutes a Rideau or the new Manufacture Royale Opera model which is none other than the first tourbillon minute repeater with a more than 100-hour power reserve. An instrument as original as Le-DIX Furtif by Celsius also comes to mind, featuring a mechanical sound achieved in collaboration with Parisian artist, Le Tone.

    5TH ART : POETRY

    "Oh ! the joy of childhood days, Backward turn oh time in your flight"… Time, its flight, its race, that which passes and is lost, is a theme that is ever present in the world of the poets. Lamartine, Ronsard and Apollinaire... From fascination to questioning and torment, the greatest have shown an interest in it. Conversely, some brands express a poetic note on the wrist that is highly appreciated, particularly by women. Naturally, Van Cleef & Arpels have made a signature of it with poetic complications and today, their Poetic Wish watches. Cartier also explores the 5th art with its magnificent dreamlike Tourbillon and bird timepiece. Not to mention Piaget, which sets the hours magically whirling and twirling with its new Limelight Dancing Light Collection.


    GMT no 28 - Summer 2012

  • Patrizzi & Co - Cartier Table Clock at New York Auctions

    Patrizzi & Co Opens 2010 Auction Year with Significant Cartier Timepieces and Over 150 Collector-Level Wristwatches, Pocket Watches and Clocks for March 9 Auction in New York City.

    A 1929 gold-and-nephrite Cartier table clock featuring grande sonnerie chimes—one of two clocks with the most complicated mechanism ever made by the company—highlights Patrizzi & Co's first 2010 horologic auction, to be held Tuesday, March 9, in New York City with simultaneous bidding online. "Timeless Emotions - Collecting Pocket Watches, Wristwatches & Clocks" will showcase more than 150 collector-level timepieces, including an outstanding selection of vintage Cartier wristwatches, clocks and pocket watches.
    "This will be the most important sale of Cartier timepieces since 1996. The table clock is exquisite. It's extremely rare to find a large Comet clock with the grand sonnerie, moon phases and calendar," said Osvaldo Patrizzi, president and chief executive officer of Patrizzi & Co. "With its distinguished history and esthetic prowess, Cartier is commanding top prices and is particularly desirable with clients in China."
    Grande sonnerie striking hours marking the quarter hours is extremely rare for a Cartier desk clock. The case is in 14k yellow gold with nephrite base and side panels. Its enamel face depicts the time and phases of the moon as well as three subsidiary dials with day, alarm and date. The clock was owned by the son of New York City's youngest mayor, Hugh L. Grant, who led the city, beginning at age 31, from 1889-1892. Other Cartier pieces include several tank-style platinum men's wristwatches, a platinum minute repeater pocket watch, and a men's jeweled dress pocket watch. 


    Also in the sale will be two Patek Philippes Ref. 2526. This sought-after reference was the company's first wristwatch powered by an automatic movement, which ushered in the era of self-winding watches. Made in 1956, Ref. 2526 is in platinum set with diamonds, which is extremely unusual for this model. The second example is in 18k yellow gold with an enamel dial and was also made in 1956.
    "These two Patek Philippes are extremely significant. You could say this movement changed the course of horology. The automatic winding was a fantastic innovation and set the groundwork for really almost every technical advancement since," said Patrizzi.

    Auction Highlights


    • Cartier Complicated "Comet" Table Clock with eight-day duration and Grande Sonnerie chimes in 14k yellow gold with nephrite base and side panels, enamel dial, moon phases and three subsidiary dials with day, date and alarm; completed in 1929. One of two clocks with the most complicated mechanism ever produced by Cartier.


    • Cartier 18k yellow gold, black onyx and enamel miniature desk clock with eight-day duration; circa 1929.
    • Cartier platinum men's tank "Louis Cartier" wristwatch with original platinum bracelet; completed in 1929. • Cartier platinum, flat minute-repeater pocket watch with engraved coat of arms; approx. 20 platinum minute-repeating pocket watches were ever made by Cartier; circa 1918. • Cartier keyless, rock crystal gentlemen's platinum dress pocket watch set with sapphires; completed in 1928.• Cartier 18k white gold "Louis Cartier" men's tank wristwatch with matching bracelet; made entirely in Cartier's London workshop; circa 1977.


    Auction 2 p.m. Tuesday, March 9, with three-day preview


    The live auction will be held at 2 p.m. Tuesday, March 9, at Patrizzi & Co, 595 Madison Avenue, Suite 605. Buyers can bid on site, via phone, written bids, and in real time online via the company's website, www.patrizziauction.com. A public preview will be held Saturday and Sunday, March 6-7, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Monday, March 8, from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. During these times, company experts will offer complimentary appraisals and accept consignments for future auctions.

    Concurrent three-day New York Silent Sale

    In conjunction with the three-day preview of the auction, Patrizzi & Co will conduct a Silent Sale of an additional 100 timepieces, including Rolex, Cartier, Piaget, Omega, Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger LeCoultre. Interested buyers can examine the pieces and place their initial bid at the company's New York showroom. A text message system will notify them of competing bids, allowing them the opportunity to rebid before the silent auction closes the evening of Monday, March 8.

    Hong Kong Preview & Silent Sale

    Both events will be extended to Hong Kong. The traditional auction will preview in Patrizzi & Co's new office in Hong Kong Feb. 27-March 1 and the Silent Auction will be conducted there during those dates as well.

    No Buyer's Commission
    Patrizzi & Co does not charge a buyer's commission, representing a 20 to 25 percent savings from the hammer price for the buyer. Unlike most auction houses, this means the final sale price reflects the actual value of the timepiece.

    Exhibitions
    Hong Kong
    27 February - 1 March 2010 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
    Patrizzi & Co Auctioneers Hong Kong Ltd
    Unit 2608, 26/F
    9 Queen's Road Central
    Central, Hong Kong
    T. 852 2868 2113
    F. 852 2868 2001
    New York
    6-7 March 2010 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
    8 March 2010 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
    Patrizzi & Co Auctioneers USA
    595 Madison Avenue, Suite 605
    New York, NY 10022
    United States
    T. 646 763 88 80
    F. 646 214 09 05
     
    Auction
    2 p.m. Tuesday, March 9, at Patrizzi & Co, 595 Madison Avenue, Suite 605, New York.
    Live online at www.patrizziauction.com

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