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Unique complications - Peerless complexity
One might be tempted to believe that watchmaking perpetually gravitates around the same themes that it merely rehashes; that the catalogue of horological complications is complete and well-defined; that originality and innovation are the exclusive preserve of tiny disruptive brands seeking to distinguish themselves from the competition at all costs. Nothing could be further from the truth. There are many models that stand alone in doing what they do. We owe them to a broad spectrum of super-famous, moderately-known or more discreet brands. Better still, these exceptional high-performance timepieces are not necessarily unaffordable.
The split-second chronograph is prestigious, but very limited in scope. It serves to time two simultaneous events and to display their respective times. But the only hand capable of following this discrepancy is the seconds hand, and for anything beyond a one-minute difference, users have to resort to counting on their fingers. The Double Split by A. Lange & Söhne is the only watch to have two pairs of stopwatch hands keeping track of both seconds and minutes.
Another solution invented to solve this issue is the Twin Chrono by Louis Vuitton, which is in fact equipped with three coordinated chronograph movements. Starting the timecount activates the first two movements. A first press on the stop pusher stops the first movement and gives the time of the first competitor. Meanwhile, the second timecount powered by the second chronograph movement continues to keep track of the second competitor, and a third differential display counter starts. A second press on the stop pusher serves to read off the time of the second competitor, while the third chronograph counter shows the difference between the two. All that is then required is to zero-reset and the watch is ready for action again.
Power-reserve indicators are either linear or circular, but always regular, meaning that the space between each unit of reserve is identical… except with the Oris Calibre 110. The latter's autonomy is indicated in an irregular manner: the lower the reserve, the broader the graduation and the finer the reading of an indication that is all the more important as the power dwindles.
Almost all the Opus models feature an unparalleled display, which Harry Winston has made their very reason for being, and no. 14 is no exception. In addition to the running retrograde indications of the hours and minutes, a swing arm picks up a disc situated beneath the hours dial and places it on a turntable at 2 o'clock. The disc thus turns and displays either a second time zone or the date.
Chronometry is at the heart of watches but is read off on the outside, since evaluating the rating precision of a watch involves a stint on a test bench. Urwerk has decided to take the 'heart' concept literally. Its EMC is equipped with a system that reads off the chronometric performance of its mechanical movement by means of a tiny laser and an electronic circuit housed inside the watch itself.
72,000 vibrations per hour is the absolute frequency record for mechanical watches, held by Breguet. It is implemented in two watches: the Type XXII chronograph and the Classique Chronometrie 7727. The latter is extremely dressy, highly innovative, and operates at 10 Hz.
The Gregorian calendar gets close scrutiny in the watchmaking world. Perpetual calendars are generally designed to keep track of its vagaries, including normal and leap years. But there are other calendars in use on the planet. Blancpain is the only brand to have devoted the requisite energy to reproducing a Chinese perpetual calendar, and the 57260 by Vacheron Constantin is likewise the only model to feature a Hebraic perpetual calendar.
A number of devices have been invented that pursue the same purpose as the tourbillon: setting the sprung balance into motion so as to counteract the detrimental influence of gravity upon its precision. The Cartier Astroregulator takes a different approach, by fitting its entire regulating organ inside a micro-rotor. Since the escapement is constantly upside down, it stays in the same position in relation to the ground. Thus maintaining the same profile makes it easier to adjust and impressively accurate.
Admirers never tire of observing the beauty of mechanical watches… albeit through the back, once they are off the wrist, which is not very practical! Glashutte Original had the idea of reversing one of its movements so that its finishes and its most spectacular organs are visible through the dial. Better still, the caseback side has become the dial itself. The PanoInverse reveals all and it's a pleasing sight.
There was a time when automatons, which bear a number of similarities with watches, were the world's most sophisticated and precious objects. Mechanisms imitated life with its various movements and even its sounds. Songbirds were the glory of their manufacturers, the most famous of which was Jaquet Droz. The brand is currently the only one to offer wristwatch also serving as a sapphire birdcage. The mechanical magic of the Charming Bird enables it to swivel and chirp almost like its real-life feathered counterpart.
Mechanical movements are basically sandwiches, composed of two layers of metal - the baseplate and the bridges - enclosing the functional organs such as the gear train, the barrel, the escapement, and so on. Richard Mille has ditched these traditional structures in its RM 27-01, since its movement is protected from shocks by a cable-suspension mechanism.
A watch, a movement, a complication, a dial - an inseparable whole. This implicit watch industry rule has been shattered with the Metamorphosis II from Montblanc. It uses a single movement to show two different faces: the first is a regulator-type display with a date indication, while activating a slide on the dial causes the dial to split and slide aside, thus revealing a second one, which is coupled with a new complication: a previously inactive and undetectable chronograph.
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Power reserve - The end of an era
Some may claim that their minimum has never been under 72 hours, and a quick glance at their collections confirms the truth of such statements. The same does not however hold true for the vast majority, among which a 42-hour power reserve is standard fare. Customers may have previously accepted this state of affairs, but only because there were no alternatives. When movement production is in the hands of two or three groups and all of them have the same 42-hour power reserve, that kind of benchmark significantly shapes the market as a whole. That part of the industry has thus been operating under what is known as an oligopoly, but times are definitely changing these days.
Gradual evolution
There were only two factors liable to spark a change in this situation: a disruption of this oligopoly; and a modification of demand. It so happens that both these transformations are taking place simultaneously.
On the market side, ETA has announced the imminent end of its deliveries to brands outside the group, which means other stakeholders are getting involved, and in doing so are showing themselves willing to review the entire set of movement technical specifications - starting with the power reserve. Breitling has set a minimum 70-hour threshold on its in-house calibres, Oris aims for 10 days and TAG Heuer targets 80 hours. Hautlence is definitely part of this trend, as its CEO, Guillaume Tetu confirms: "our future models will all have at least a 70-hour power reserve". One quite naturally thinks of the developments that the young Hautlence company might undertake with its sister company, H. Moser & Cie., which currently offers a generous seven-day power reserve. "That is indeed the kind of rapprochement we could well envisage", says Guillaume Tetu with a smile.
As far as customers are concerned, things have also changed. They are no longer prepared to spend 40,000 Swiss francs on a model that will barely run 40 hours without stopping! The message has apparently been heard in almost all market segments. Perhaps a little too loud and clear, as in the case of A. Lange & Söhne and its 31 days, or Hublot with the 50 days of its MP05.
In this respect, Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Director of movement development for Cartier Haute Horlogerie, reminds us: "We must be careful about distinguishing between common sense in terms of pure performance, and aspects relating to talking pieces. Merely multiplying barrels is always an option, but when you are creating a model intended for daily use and governed by a minimum of aesthetic considerations and technical common sense, you can't just do whatever you feel like." Richard Mille concurs, pointing out that "What really counts is ensuring the overall coherence of the project. On a model such as the Nadal watch, we were looking for absolute minimum size and weight, which are scarcely compatible with maximum power reserve. You have to make situation-related decisions."
Magic formulae
Such aforementioned power-reserve "Formula 1" models are indeed interesting, but not enough to meet the very real market expectations - which is where a Blancpain 12 Day model proves its relevance. Independent firms that are less subject to the pressures of industrialisation had indeed pioneered this field: a Speake-Marin Resilience has a four to five-day power reserve, a Julien Coudray 1518 Manufacture runs for 60 hours, and a Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic for at least 80 hours.
Admittedly, most of these younger firms have had the opportunity (and the required boldness) to create their own in-house calibres. Yet reaching the power-reserve 'holy grail' need not imply a complete break with existing models. There are several means of optimising the architecture of a movement so as to boost its autonomy.
For example, Eterna has placed its barrel on a ball-bearing mechanism as part of its patented Spherodrive principle. This means the movement loses less energy and can achieve an eight-day power reserve.
Breguet takes another approach, since the Manufacture has chosen to focus on the barrel-spring. In 2012, the movement of the Classique watch was equipped with a new stainless steel version of this component, delivering extremely high mechanical performances. This patented material serves to store energy within the same amount of space, significantly raising the power reserve of the reference 5277 model from 75 hours to 96.
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Patrizzi & Co - 15 June 2010, Auction results
Sales in the Patrizzi & Co June 15 New York auction reached a total $2,901,850 with 145 of the 233 lots sold. The top lot was a minute repeater by F.P. Journe, featuring Grande et Petite Sonnerie striking chimes, which sold for $400,000. An eight-day duration Cartier Mystery clock with platinum, rock crystal and diamonds made in the 1940s attained $280,000. An 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe World Time with a cloisonne enamel dial fetched $140,000.
"There was tremendous interest in this auction from clients in Asia, especially China and Hong Kong," said Philip Poniz, vice president and chief expert at Patrizzi & Co. "These customers purchased a range of items, from pocket watches to modern wristwatches." The company held previews of the auction in Hong Kong and Shanghai, where the company opened offices in 2009 and 2010, respectively.
About 40 people attended the auction in person with b bidding via the Internet and phone, with many bids from China. Sales of pocket watches were consistently b with models from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Chronograph wristwatches were also popular with models from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, IWC and Audemars Piguet. A limited edition Panerai Radiomir from 2000 sold for double its estimate.
Osvaldo Patrizzi founded Patrizzi & Co in 2008 to innovate the horological auction market by eliminating the buyer's commission and other fees and simplifying the auction process. A Patrizzi & Co horological expert carefully examines and evaluates every timepiece offered for sale, which is then accompanied by a five-year guarantee of authenticity.
HIGHLIGHTS
Lots 94
F. P. Journe Sonnerie Souveraine
Stainless steel minute-repeating wristwatch with Grande et Petite Sonnerie striking chimes and power reserve indication; made in 2007; with accessories
Lot 122
Cartier, Paris, No. 02063, made in the 1940s
Eight-day duration mystery clock in 18k yellow gold, platinum, rock crystal and diamonds; with Cartier fitted morocco box
Lot 121
Cartier, Paris, No. 2650, circa 1930
Nephrite mounted in 18k yellow gold and silver, eight-day duration, quarter striking carriage desk clock with phases of the moon, days of the week, date and alarm with original numbered key; accompanied by a Cartier certificate
Lot 224
Patek Philippe World Time, Ref. 5131J-001, Movement No. 3925148, Case No. 4464263, sold Dec. 11, 2009
18k yellow gold World Time wristwatch featuring cloisonne dial, day/night and 24-hour indications; with Certificate of Origin and original fitted box
Lot 145
Patek Philippe Chronograph, Ref. 1463, Movement No. 868715, Case No. 684703, made in 1953, sold May 25, 1955
18k pink gold round-button chronograph, with tachometer and 30-minute register; model was first water-resistant chronograph made by company; accompanied by extract from the archives
Lot 170
"Paul Newman" Fuerza Aerea Del Peru, Ref. 6239
Rolex Oyster Cosmograph, Ref. 6239, Case No. 1601343, circa 1966-7
Stainless steel round-button chronograph with black/white dial featuring 30-minute and 12-hour registers, tachometer, hours, minutes and small seconds
Lot 27
IWC Portuguese Doppelchronograph
Platinum chronograph rattrapante, Ref. IW371212, No. 248/250, Case No. 2817906 made in limited edition of 250 examples in 2005; with original box and guarantee
$23,000
Lot 39
Panerai Radiomir Platinum Special Edition, Ref. Op 6542, No. 24, Case No. C24/99, made in limited edition of 99 examples in 2000
Platinum special edition Radiomir diver's wristwatch with large date, 72-hour power reserve; with original fitted box, international guarantee, Certificate of Origin, Chronometer Certification
Lot 128
Rolex Anniversary GMT-Master II
Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, GMT-MASTER II, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 116748 SARU, Movement No. 1,697,829, Case No. Z649,070, made in 2006, sold July 16, 2007
18k yellow gold, dual-time chronometer wristwatch; bezel set with diamonds, sapphires and rubies
Lot 232
Vacheron & Constantin World Time Desk Chronometre Royal, No. 368545, completed in 1948
One of only six World Time desk clocks with "mechanism Cottier" in gilt brass and burl wood
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Cartier - Manufacture Revealed
WORLDTEMPUS - 19 May 2010
Cartier's newest factory location in the new horological quarter of Crêt du Locle and completed in 2005 almost completely replaces a total of six previous manufacturing sites. Where a Cartier watch might previously have traveled something like 170 physical kilometers before being completed, including a trip to Fribourg, it now may not even leave the new factory at all before it is delivered. This beautiful building seeming to consist solely of glass panes has, however, remained fairly closed to the curious eyes of journalists—until the advent of ID One: Cartier's concept watch gave the Richemont flagship brand the chance to show off its state-of-the-art facility for the first time.
The new building measuring more than 30,000 square meters unites 175 different crafts under one roof. The more than 1,000 employees manning the various stations ranging from CNC technology through chemical hand bluing and mineral crystal production all the way to movement finishing, skeletonizing, and even enameling come from a total of 37 countries. This includes Cartier's head movement designer, Carole Forestier-Gaspari, a talented engineer now in charge of Cartier Manufacture's innovative technical designs. Her office is found in the factory's "think tank," which is not far from the "studio" area, where every Wednesday employees from the marketing and creation departments meet to brainstorm and discuss between 150 and 200 new horological projects that Cartier carries out simultaneously, including special orders, evolutions of existing models, new sizing for standing watches, and new technologies and materials.
This is all quite impressive, but even more so is perhaps the carefully thought-out organizational planning of the factory, which would seem almost industrial to the casual observer if it weren't for the very clean and at times artsy feel to the rooms. What leaves perhaps the most lasting impression is the grid setup of the component manufacture, which includes both mechanical and quartz movements, arranged according to component, production step, and caliber. This style of organization is doubtlessly unique to Cartier.
A luxury product is the sum of all its detailed parts. And it's no wonder that Cartier's products are so detailed in their aesthetics and—now—technology. They represent no less than the sum of their factory's well-oiled and perfectly organized parts.
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Antiquorum - May auction in Geneva
Collectors can look forward to Antiquorum's Important Collectors' Wristwatches, Pocket Watches, & Clocks Auction, to be held on Saturday 8 and Sunday 9 May at the Mandarin Oriental Geneva. More than 450 selected vintage and modern wristwaches will be offered for sale. Previews are to be held in Hong Kong, Hang Zhou, Shanghai and Geneva.
One of the highlights of the sale is unquestionably the exceptionally rare and very important Grande & Petite Sonnerie Tourbillon Clockwatch attributed to Victorin Piguet, made for Tchetounoff Freres, Moscow, circa 1900. Its movement combines a two-train grande and petite sonnerie with trip minute-repeating and one-minute tourbillon.
Top lots also include the Patek Philippe Ref. 130 in pink gold for Eberhard-Milan. This very sought-after chronograph, made circa 1948, was retailed by Eberhard, Milan (Italy). Sophisticated collectors appreciate this model's perfect proportions and its clearly readable dial, encircled by a slender, concave bezel which lends a great luminosity to the dial.
Another very fine and rare timepiece by Patek Philippe is the Ref.1579, made in 1949 and sold on October 18, 1950. This large 18K yellow gold chronograph is accompanied by the original Certificate of Origin, the Extract from the Archives, a documented spare service dial from 1977 and service history documents for the period 1974 to 1994.
Antiquorum experts are also delighted to present a collection of 60 exquisite and very interesting Jaeger LeCoultre clocks belonging to a private French collector, including the Jaeger-LeCoultre Illuminated World Globe Table Clock, Ref. 163. This very fine and rare 8-day going Art-Deco table clock, with electric illuminated globe, was made circa 1935, with the globe made by J.Forest.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Pendulette Double Face Cristal Taille, Ref. 155, will also retain the collectors' attention, made circa 193. This fine 8-day going Art-Deco table clock in glass and chrome holds two digital dials.
Antiquorum's May auction also includes a selection of technical timepieces with the Patek Philippe Ref. 3448 Retailed by Cartier, made circa 1970. This very fine and rare self-winding 18K yellow gold wristwatch features a perpetual calendar and moon phases. It is accompanied by the Extract from the Archives and a Cartier certificate of authenticity.
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Yet another exceptional timepiece is the Audemars Piguet "Jules Audemars - Tourbillon Repetition Minutes Quantieme Perpetuel", Cabinet No.2, second watch in the "Tradition of Excellence" cabinet series. It was made circa 2000 in a limited edition of 20 pieces only. This grand complication combines minute-repeating and perpetual calendar functions with a visible one-minute tourbillon regulator.
Collectors will also be delighted by the Patek Philippe Ref. 3970, in platinum, sold in June 2003. This platinum chronograph features a perpetual calendar, moon phases, leap year and 24-hour indication. It is accompanied by the original fitted mahogany box, Certificate of Origin, setting pin, booklets and a spare strap and transparent platinum case back.
Antiquorum experts are also pleased to present the Patek Philippe, Ref. 5101P - « 10 Days Tourbillon », sold on December 18, 2006 by G. Collins & Sons, British Crown Jewellers and personal jeweller to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. This exceptional rectangular and curved, Art Deco style platinum chronometer wristwatch holds a one-minute tourbillon regulator and tandem mainspring barrels providing a 10-day power-reserve. It is accompanied by the Certificate of Origin, chronometer rating certificate, instructions in a leather folder, the original wood fitted box and a limited edition Patek Philippe art print - VI-2003 illustrating the movement of the Ref. 5101.
Sold in October 2009, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5004, in 18K yellow gold, is yet another extremely rare wristwatch offered for sale. This split-seconds chronograph features a perpetual calendar, moon phases, leap year and 24 hour indication.
America's Cup aficionados will certainly want the AP Team Alinghi "Royal Oak Offshore", Limited Edition, No. 090/107. Made in a limited series of 107 pieces to celebrate the victory of Alinghi team in March 2003 America's Cup, this flyback chronograph in forged carbon, ceramic and platinum bears a central digital 10-minute count-down timer, 20-minute and 6-hour chronograph registers and is accompanied by a Team Alinghi presentation case and user's manual.
Closing the selection of complicated timepieces offered at Antiquorum's May auction is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Complication Gyrotourbillon No. 1/1 - Piece Unique. This exceptional and highly complicated 8-day going platinum wristwatch features a visible Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 177 with inclined lightweight two-cage multi-axis spherical tourbillon, two barrels with sapphire covers, "marchante" equation of time, perpetual calendar with retrograde month indication, leap-year indication and patented instant date display by means of two retrograde hands and power reserve indication. It was sold in December 2007.
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SIHH - Under Blog Siege
WORLDTEMPUS - 5 February 2010
- IC Agency - with and
This twentieth edition of the SIHH was notably marked by the presence of a number of bloggers perusing the brands' stands alongside journalists belonging to both broad and specialized press. Just a few years ago, these web editors would have had to wait for the magazine coverage to take place before being able to write their own articles and blogs providing their points of view on the new products. Today, certain bloggers are even invited by the brands themselves, certainly a sign of evolution within the PR machinery, which may now place more consideration on this new—and perhaps generational—type of communication. This is a tendency confirmed by Fabienne Lupo, director of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), who confided to the website businessmontres.com, "The SIHH, like the entire industry, has profited from the Internet communication boom, which has provided a great deal of visibility, especially considering that this fair is a private one. The web journalists are of course less numerous, though they represent a constant progression: a few dozen in comparison to the more than 1,300 print journalists present at the show."
b impact
Very independent because they do not generally have the direct pressure of paid advertisers, web editors and their daily postings oftentimes have a considerable impact on consumers, who like the industry as a whole, use the advantage of the Internet to inform themselves about watchmaking on a day-to-day basis.
"Watch brands are used to controlling what is said about them," explains Ariel Adams, a prominent blogger present at the SIHH. "Brands will soon learn that the Internet is already the premiere location for people to learn about and research watches—even more than magazines. Bloggers will force brands to reevaluate their relationships with the media, and they won't have the traditional level of control. I hope that it will force them to improve not only their communication, but the thoughts behind their product marketing."
From collector scene followers to professional journalists, collective blogging until January 31 had totaled about 2,000 articles on the nineteen brands exhibiting at the SIHH.
Purposeful relationships
Among the brands most visible on blogs were Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier, between them occupying 25 percent of bloggers' attention, with 280 and 274 articles respectively across all languages (see graphic). This represents an almost disproportionate amount of visibility for Van Cleef & Arpels, primarily a "ladies' watch" brand. Clearly, Van Cleef & Arpels reaps the fruits of a special labor, as the brand's marketing manager for watches, Louis de Meckenheim, reveals, "Van Cleef & Arpels recognizes the impact and influence that today's blogger has on our watch world. As our creations continue to evolve from a poetic and technical perspective, it is important for us to develop and maintain b relationships with key online journalists and bloggers who demonstrate the authority to spread our message and to create conversations in the digital media space about Van Cleef & Arpels timepieces. As a brand, we have made the decision on a worldwide level to pursue this communication medium and continue expanding our touch points with this new and incredible online audience. Bloggers are free souls motivated by passion, we have something in common with this community."
Cartier president Bernard Fornas doesn't find the resulting blog statistics odd. Largely mentioned in the online categories of business and finance, the interviews he gave to the international press were at times orchestrated to illustrate the signs of an industry on the mend, but also to spread the semester results of the Richemont group, which were announced parallel to the fair.
Positive echoes
For Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, and Audemars Piguet, the number of articles published oscillated between 160 and 180, demonstrating a continuing b interest in these brands, who can well be described as pillars of the world of haute horlogerie.
Vacheron Constantin and Piaget followed in the blog ranking, perhaps fueled by the obvious trend toward extra-flat models in a quasi retro style.
Baume & Mercier embarked on a pioneering path in the world of social media. Launching an innovative campaign on Facebook just days before the SIHH opened, the brand created a concept spotlighting an the heiress of the brand: Simone Gaudard, the granddaughter of company founder William Baume, who found her way back to the brand in order to invite consumers to take part in posting on the history of "their" Baume & Mercier watches.
A positive Internet echo bounced back to Richard Mille, who participated in the SIHH for the first time. About sixty articles confirmed the brand's vitality and a tangible appreciation for its products.
"In the end, need to realize that most watch bloggers are serious watch lovers... that only want them to succeed and release the best products possible," Adams sums up.
[Rating: 5 / 5 stars]
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