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Top Quality Patek Philippe Automatic Watches (305) Items
Top Quality Patek Philippe Automatic Watches (305) Items

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  • Patek Philippe - Grandmaster Chime : a striking watch in all senses and more besides

    It may not be the world's most complicated watch, but the new Grandmaster Chime by Patek Philippe is by far the most sophisticated striking watch in the history of wearable timepieces. Launched on the occasion of the brand's 175th anniversary, this monumental piece uses 1,366 components for the movement and 215 for the case in order to be able to strike out time like never before.

    Let us start from the beginning: the Grandmaster Chime is a . This means that when the small indicator at 7 o'clock is in the G position, the watch will automatically chime the hours (one note for each hour) and the quarter hours (a three-note melody for each quarter). Proving that those who can do more can also do less, the calibre GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM can also be switched to mode, in which case it will only chime the hours at the top of the hour and the quarter hours at each quarter. Finally, like any other minute repeater, the Grandmaster Chime will also chime the current time at the press of a button incorporated into the crown. 

    As a reminder, the is the most sophisticated of horological complications. It is extremely rare and Patek Philippe did not have a wristwatch version in its catalogue. But on this already highly complicated base, Patek Philippe had added two additional functions, both of which are totally unique. 


    Alarm and date
    The first is an alarm. You may think that there is nothing unique in that. But this one doesn't sound the alarm with an indistinct bell. The Grandmaster Chime chimes the alarm time as if you had just pushed the minute-repeater button. It can be set to the nearest quarter of an hour. But to make sure it is heard, it always chimes more than just the hours. Thus, to wake up its owner at 7am, the watch will start chiming at 6.58. Instead of seven chimes it will chime six times for the hours, nine for the quarters and 13 for the remaining minutes.

    But that's still not all. The Grandmaster Chime also chimes the date! It would appear that this is the first time ever that such a function has been implemented. The mechanism therefore has to be connected not only to a system that knows what time it is, but also to one that knows the date. Since the watch has a perpetual calendar, this system is already highly complex. But because of the imposing size of the movement, the date information must be obtained from the opposite end of the calibre. The striking mechanism has to chime the date, using the same principle as for the time. In order to avoid chiming up to 31 times, which would be bothersome to count for the wearer and would use up a lot of the movement's power, the Grandmaster Chime takes some shortcuts. First, it chimes a sequence of two notes in quick succession for the tens, then a single note for the remaining units. Those who want the watch to chime the month as well are quite frankly asking too much…


    Two dials
    The current time, alarm time and date can thus be consulted visually and audibly and are found on one of two dials on the Grandmaster Chime. The huge case, which measures 47mm in diameter by 16mm in height, is in fact reversible. It can be rotated around its lugs to reveal another face. The first is filled with indications and decoration, as well as two small and discreet windows. These are safety indicators that show whether the watch and alarm functions can be adjusted without any risk of damaging the movement. Patek Philippe has actually incorporated safety mechanisms into the incredible complexity of this movement to prevent the wearer from adjusting it inadvertently when the components are engaged.

    The other dial is much purer. This second face is that of a complete perpetual calendar, showing day, date, month and a four-digit year at the centre of the dial in a large gold window. Just above this, to keep things practical, the time is indicated by two hands on a 24-hour scale. If required, it can be de-synchronised from the main time on the first dial in order to offer a second time zone display. We will pass over the perpetual calendar a little quickly, because it is a well-covered complication. Nevertheless, like all perpetual calendars by Patek Philippe, it is instantaneous: all the indications change simultaneously at midnight. This function becomes unique when the year changes, since in addition to five hands, at least one and at most three discs must be activated at the same time. For the fourth disc, which shows the thousand years, the force required to turn it has been calculated and will be available, but who will be around to check that it works? 

    Four barrels
    Listing the complications of the Grandmaster Chime, a total of 20, does not summarise its complexity. As with a number of other grand complications, it does not live off their accumulation but rather by their outcome. To this we must add the problem of power management of a difficulty never before seen in contemporary watchmaking. All the audible timekeeping from this piece comes from the This is what knows what time it is, not the hands, which are merely there to help us see the time. The components that really know the time have to distribute this information to three systems: alarm, calendar, striking mechanism, each of which require a power supply. This is why the Grandmaster Chime has four barrels. They guarantee a power reserve of 72 hours in silent mode and 30 hours in mode. This is much better than other models on the market and is no mean feat. They distribute their power to the different functions by means of a differential.


    Only six models of the Grandmaster Chime will be available, at a price that would make an Emir perspire. A seventh model is reserved for the Patek Philippe museum. All of them have an ornate hand-engraved case in red gold, which is as complex as the movement. It has to house 11 pushers and buttons and guarantee the acoustic quality of the chimes, an element of quality for which Patek Philippe accepts no compromise. No easy task, given the numerous holes drilled into the case and the fact that it should be easily reversible. 


    Seven years work

    But the life of the calibre GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM does not stop here. The brand has plans to use this colossal movement again in the future. This is just as well, given that it has taken seven years of work, 60,000 hours of development, production and implementation. It would have been sad to think that this masterpiece, which incorporates six patents, would not live beyond the celebration of this anniversary. 

  • Only Watch 2013 - 5th edition, 5 millions EUR

    Held every two years since 2005 during the Monaco Yacht Show, the world-renowned charitable fundraiser for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy totaled 5,066,000 EUR, making it the most successful benefit event organized by Association Monegasque contre les Myopathies (AMM) to date.
    The awaited, exciting, joyful, spectacular, unpredictable 5th edition of the live auction took place on September 28th at Hotel Hermitage Monte Carlo, hosted by Luc Pettavino, President of AMM, in presence of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco, watch manufactures CEOs and Owners, Collectors and Philanthropists: more than 300 people in total, plus numerous bidders online and by phone from all over the world.
    33 unique watches and a collection of 14 vintage magnum champagne bottles were sold under the hammer of Antiquorum Auctioneers for a total of 5,066,000 EUR.
    The Patek Philippe ref. 5004T reached the record sum of 2'950'000 EUR.

  • WorldTempus Rant #14 - The Importance of Swiss Made

    Today's world is a global one. Volkswagen cars are being made in Mexico. Apple iPhones are produced in China. 60% of Triumph motorcycles, an iconic British mark, are made in Thailand, while Royal Enfield, another famous British motorcycle brand, is now entirely produced in India.
    Does it really matter where products are produced today? In watches, I think it does.
    Swiss Made still means something to the end consumer and it has to be safeguarded. Watches that are made in Switzerland are highly valued by customers and Switzerland is seen as the home of fine watchmaking. A Swiss Made watch is a hallmark of quality, no matter the retail price.
    Right now, to use the Swiss Made designation, there are a number of criteria:
    1.   The movement has to be Swiss (meaning that it has been assembled and inspected in Switzerland, and at least 50% of the value of the movement components has to come from Switzerland)
    2.   The movement has to be cased up in Switzerland
    3.   The final inspection has to be done in Switzerland.
    There are companies within the watch industry pushing for the Swiss Made label to be more restrictive than it currently is. For example, they want to increase the percentage of movement components, guaranteeing that a greater majority of the work is done in Switzerland.
     
    I understand the reasoning behind this, but I'm not sure it's the right move. While Swiss Made is important, a more restrictive standard would automatically result in higher-priced watches, and as a result, Swiss watches, especially entry-level timepieces, might no longer be competitive on the world stage. As a result, the Swiss Made label might be transformed into a detriment to the watch industry in Switzerland.
    There are a few brands that no longer use the Swiss Made label, preferring to use terms such as "Fabrique en Suisse" or something similar. Other brands put nothing at all on their dials indicating the country of origin.
    The watch industry must continue emphasizing the value of Swiss origin of the movements and the majority of the parts. However, to remain competitive in an ever more challenging business environment, I don't think it's a good idea to make manufacturers buy more expensive parts that can be sourced from other areas of the world. Sure, keep the majority of the important work and competence in Switzerland, but make sure you don't drive the volume players out of the watch business.
    Today, many people around the world aspire to one day owning a Swiss timepiece. We in the watch industry have to safeguard this dream and protect the "Swissness" and the exclusivity of watches made in Switzerland. At the same time, however, we have to make sure the dream of owning a Swiss timepiece is affordable. Not many people can jump in and buy a Patek Philippe - an affordable entry-level Hamilton or Baume & Mercier watch is often a ticket to a lifetime of fine watch ownership and collecting.
    The Swiss Made issue is a balancing act that involves safeguarding the "Made in Switzerland" aspect, yet without raising the price of ownership to a prohibitive level.

  • Patek Philippe - A New Chair in Neuchâtel with EPFL

    Research rises to meet the challenges of the watchmaking industry
    Developing new high-tech materials and conducting research in cutting edge micro- and nanotechnologies for the flourishing watchmaking industry: this is the goal of the new Patek Philippe Chair. Created in collaboration with EPFL, the Chair will be associated with the Institute of Microengineering (IMT) and based in Neuchâtel.
    One of Switzerland's leading watchmaking societies is joining forces with one of the principal academic and educational institutions in the country. Patek Philippe and EPFL (Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne) are announcing today the creation of a new chair, the Patek Philippe Chair, dedicated to the application of new micro- and nanotechnologies to watchmaking.
    Patek Philippe's contribution will be to fund the position of a professor and his or her research team, and EPFL will essentially provide infrastructure. The new Chair will be part of the Neuchâtel-based Institute of Microengineering (IMT). This entity, which has been part of EPFL since 2009, is growing rapidly and is becoming a center of excellence, thanks to the creation of several new research teams and a network that brings together all the major players in the Swiss microengineering industry. Neuchâtel is an advantageous location, since the Jura region is the historical seat of many watchmaking and high-tech companies. This Chair will build a bridge between the private sector and academic research.
    "This agreement is in line with the b growth that the watchmaking industry is currently experiencing, and for which new technologies and materials have become essential," emphasizes Nico de Rooij, IMT Director and Vice President of CSEM SA. The horologic industry provided more than 50,000 jobs and some 16 billion Swiss francs in exports in 2010.


    Many avenues to explore
    To maintain this position and its competitiveness, the industry must continually innovate. "There is much progress to be made, particularly in increasing the energy efficiency of the movements in order to be able to make ever smaller mechanisms and components, and in increasing reliability and the power reserve," explains Jean-Pierre Musy, technical director at Patek Philippe.
    The research touches on all production phases: from manufacturing processes to escapement mechanisms to components such as the train and the balance-spring that must be made more efficient, uniform, robust and easy to assemble. A particularly important area of exploration will be developing new high-tech materials, in the continuing quest for properties that will reduce friction, add to esthetics, and improve wear resistance - much like single-crystal silicon, which has revolutionized the industry over the past several years thanks to its elastic properties which have permitted the creation of carefully crafted geometries that allow improved watch movements.
    The person nominated to this Chair will thus have as his or her objective to investigate a number of research avenues, to assemble a team and to train researchers and scientists to become experts in the field so that they can continue to improve and promote these innovations.

  • Patek Philippe - Split-seconds monopusher chronograph

    With its new Ref. 5950A split-seconds monopusher chronograph, Patek Philippe yet again presents a concept never before realized in this way: the combination of an individually crafted ultra-thin rattrapante chronograph with a case in stainless steel - a tribute to chrome steel as a case material in its own right.
    In haute horlogerie, stainless steel today is just as highly regarded as are platinum and the various hues of gold. This is affirmed by diamond-studded ladies' watches, by the success of the legendary Nautilus, and by the impressive auction house records established by historic Patek Philippe steel watches from the 1940s. The profound respect with which Patek Philippe watchmakers handle stainless steel is easy to see when looking at a chronograph movement of the Genevan manufacture through a magnifying glass. Every single steel part of the elaborate calibers is finished with the utmost in craftsmanship. So it stands to reason that a movement with such meticulous finissage lavished on its steel components can legitimately be cased in steel. With the Ref. 5950A (A stands for acier, the French word for steel), Patek Philippe has made a smart decision, as it did long ago with the Nautilus and the Twenty~4®.
    Caliber CHR 27-525 PS: the world's thinnest rattrapante movement.
    One of the salient features of the new Patek Philippe split-seconds monopusher chronograph is the case, which is thinner than that of many ordinary three-hand watches. This is due to the exquisite CHR 27-525 PS movement with which the manufacture set a new global record in 2005 for the thinnest column-wheel chronograph caliber ever made. As usual at Patek Philippe, the caliber designation tells a story: CHronograph Rattrapante, 27 mm diameter, 5.25 mm height, seconds subdial (PS stands for petite seconde). A separate department was set up in 2003 explicitly to develop this very first proprietary chronograph movement. However, its objective was not to break a world record; it was to explore innovative solutions for Patek Philippe's future chronograph calibers. One of the new facets was the continuously running 60-minute counter which is driven directly by the cannon pinion. When the chronograph is operating, the minute-counter wheel is powered by the setting wheel that is concentrically and freely mounted on the minute-counter arbor. Power transmission relies on two friction springs between the minute-counter wheel and the arbor of the setting wheel. The force exerted by the friction springs on the chronograph-wheel arbor to suppress chronograph hand vibrations is compensated by the elimination of friction between the minute-counter wheel and the setting wheel arbor. When the chronograph is switched off, the minute-counter wheel is halted by the brake or the return-to-zero hammer, and the arbor of the setting wheel can idle freely between the two friction springs. Thus, the movement design kills two birds with one stone and not only saves height but also provides automatic equalization of the torque differences between the running and stopped states of the chronograph.
    Time-tested toothing
    The ultra-thin rattrapante movement has another exclusive asset: the patented toothing geometries for the chronograph wheels (driving, clutch, and seconds wheels). Thanks to the patented toothing, the teeth execute a rolling motion while engaged instead of scraping against each other. This reduces wear and optimizes the overall functionality of the chronograph:
    - Minimized backlash suppresses chronograph hand vibration and reduces the loss of torque caused by the friction spring in the base movement.
    - No hand quiver or rebound caused by the engagement of the clutch wheel with the chronograph wheel when the chronograph is started.
    - Minimized risk of tip-to-tip contacts of the teeth.
    - No tip-to-flank contact, improved efficiency, reduced friction.
    All of these advantages improve the longevity and the long-term reliability of the watch while preserving its value.


    rtisanally crafted, one by one.
    Every single CHR 27-525 PS movement is manually crafted in the manufacture's haute horlogerie ateliers. Each one is composed of components that are individually filed, chamfered, polished, adjusted, and finished. When all the parts are ready, they are assembled in a so-called repassage en blanc procedure, after which all functions are tested. Subsequently, the entire movement is disassembled again. Once all parts have been meticulously cleaned, they are reassembled, lubricated, and fine-tuned. Thus, using ancestral production methods, Patek Philippe's watchmakers create horological masterpieces that exceed the expectations of even the most discerning connoisseurs.
    Noble steel.
    Ordinarily, horological bijoux like this ultra-thin split-seconds monopusher chronograph movement are integrated in precious-metal cases. But Patek Philippe is always good for a surprise, as in 1976 when the manufacture launched its casually elegant Nautilus model with a provocative headline: "One of the world's most expensive watches is made of steel." The Twenty~4® followed in the 1990s with a novel combination of steel and diamonds. And now, the Ref. 5950A rattrapante chronograph is here, with a cushion-shaped case in solid stainless steel that is water-resistant to 30 meters. The sapphire-crystal glass is cushion-shaped as well and slightly cambered, as is the display back. It affords a view of the breathtaking mechanisms that constitute the world's thinnest split-seconds chronograph with columnwheel control. The caliber is framed by a satin-finished surround with gold-filled engravings. Owners who are overwhelmed by so much beauty can have the sapphire-crystal case back replaced with the solid metal back that is supplied with the watch. The steel bbox is worn on a hand-stitched brown alligator strap with rectangular scales. Its prong buckle in 18K white gold is decorated with a black-lacquered engraving.



    A functionally elegant dial
    .
    The matt silvery sheen of the dial of the Ref. 5950A matches the deep gloss of the polished steel case. The crisp railway track minute scale emphasizes the masculine, technical look of the split-seconds chronograph. The four dial corners between the circular minute scale and the cushion-shaped bezel are decorated with with fine black-lacquered engravings that add a touch of graceful elegance.
    time and lap-time measurements are performed with black oxidized, counterbalanced chronograph and rattrapante hands.
    The time of day is indicated with two elegant, blackened leaf-shaped hands in 18K white gold that point at applied Breguet numerals, also in blackened 18K white gold. The watch has two subdials with intricate circular guilloche patterns: the running seconds are displayed at 9 o'clock, and the continuously running 60-minute counter is positioned at 3 o'clock. Both leaf-shaped subdial hands are made of black oxidized 18K white gold to match the overall personality of the watch. Patek Philippe's Ref. 5950A split-seconds monopusher chronograph is a further manifestation of the manufacture's independence. It has taken the liberty to present a stopwatch that in a fascinating way violates the conventions of haute horlogerie and creates its own market segment. The Ref. 5950A features a stunningly thin rattrapante movement produced one at a time by the most gifted watchmakers and cased up in stainless steel. But both the caliber and the case are finished to such a degree of perfection that they are symbiotic - as befits a creation signed by Patek Philippe.

  • Confrerie Horlogere - Genta et Buttet: un duo explosif


    The brand-new cooperation between the Maestro, an iconic figure in the field of watch design, and Mathias Buttet, a virtuoso exponent of mechanical complications, arose from a chance encounter in which creative sparks flew right from the start.
    These two passionately dedicated individuals immediately sensed they were kindred spirits driven by exactly the same feelings.
    Each of them senses the same elation when conceiving new ideas: Mr. Genta with his legendary aesthetic flair; and Matthias Buttet with his boundless imagination dedicated to researching cutting-edge high-tech watch mechanisms.
    In their own words:
    "In addition to his exceptional talent, I have discovered Mathias to be extraordinarily generous. I was dazzled by the concept of the Confrerie Horlogere (literally "the watchmaking brotherhood"), which consists in providing young people (both watchmakers and artisans) with the means - via the logistic backing of BNB Concept SA - to create watches according to their personal ideas and under their name; and if they are successful, to create their eponymous brand.
    Associating with the Confrerie Horlogere is a real delight, as well as a new challenge. My desire is to support this young company and to build - in the company of people representing a variety of generations, backgrounds and ideas - a new breed of watchmaking imbued with a blend of classicism and innovation.
    Although my long career in watchmaking has given me a good deal of satisfaction, this is the first time I am launching into an adventure that is completely new, and it's very exciting!
    Mathias Buttet reminds me of Gerald Genta at the same age, endowed with the same boldness, the same wish to shake up conventions, to move resolutely forward while respecting the existing watchmaking heritage, and above all to maintain a continuous flow of creativi
    "Even in my wildest dreams, I would never have imagined that the ultimate Designer, the "Maestro" as he is respectfully known, would pay me the honour of taking on the role of Advisor to the Confrerie Horlogere. I am extremely proud and grateful.
    For me, Mr. Genta is the man who brought complicated watchmaking back into the spotlight by adapting it to modern tastes. Since the crisis that shook the industry in the 1970s, everyone was predicting the death of Swiss watchmaking; the supremacy of Japanese electronics appeared destined to last forever and traditional crafts had been all but abandoned.
    In the 1980s, when I began my career in the watch business as an engineer, Mr. Genta was rowing firmly against the tide by restoring the pedigree of fine watchmaking enriched with horological complications. One might well compare his trailblazing role to the blades of a snow plough carving out a new path for others to follow. It is thanks to him that I decided to enter this field and I am extremely indebted to him.
    I currently have more time to devote to creating original mechanisms, especially since Pierre Favre, who had been in charge of complications at Patek Philippe for 25 years, took over as CEO of BNB Concept SA two years ago. The alliance between the uber design of a living legend and the technological excellence of BNB will undoubtedly give rise to some truly "explosive" products.

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