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Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 5905P Blue (5905P-001)

THIS IS MY 11TH WATCH FROM HEIDI AND IT IS WONDERFUL. THANK YOU HEIDI FOR SUCH BEAUTIFUL THINGS! KEEP THEM COMING! HSN IS SO LUCKY TO HAVE YOU!

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Rodney d, From USA Plainview, New York

Patek Philippe Gondolo 5098R (5098R-001)

Very pretty Patek Philippe Gondolo 5098R (5098R-001) watch that I can wear everyday and for more formal occasions. The only negative that I have experienced is that the clasp is somewhat hard to work.

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Ari L, From France Saint-cloud

Patek Philippe Calatrava Mechanical Opaline White Dial Men's Watch 5196J-001

Great seller. All done quickly and correctly. Best recommendation.

---- [Rating: 5 / 5 stars]

Review by Brady, From France Berre

With its new Ref. 5905P Annual Calendar Chronograph, Patek Philippe proves that refined combinations of trailblazing design and successful horological complications can result in totally new and distinctive timepieces. The metamorphosis begins with the dial that reflects the design of the Ref. 5205 Annual Calendar launched in 2010 but with new colors and further details is nonetheless original and unmistakable.

The outermost scale for the chronograph hand is adjoined by a crisply graduated minute scale. It is followed by a broad ring that accommodates the applied white-gold hour markers and - between 10 and 2 o'clock - the three aperture displays of the Annual Calendar. The date aperture at 12 o'clock is somewhat larger and embedded in a polished white-gold frame. At 6 o'clock, it is complemented by a large 60-minute chronograph counter and a small window for the day/night indicator just below the arbor of the hand. This configuration endows the technical aura of the Ref. 5905 with the timeless elegance of a typical Patek Philippe wristwatch. The hour and minutes hands that hover above the dial are fashioned in a novel Dauphine silhouette with three facets and a Superluminova coating on the center ridge. Together with the luminous 5-minute markers, they assure excellent legibility in the dark. The dial is available in navy blue and black versions: Blue underscores the elegance of the watch while black emphasizes its function as a technical time measurement instrument.

Both dials harmonize with the cool gloss of the prominent 42-millimeter platinum case. The round profiles of the bezel and caseband merge seamlessly with the gently curved lugs. The outer contours of the start/stop pusher, the crown, and the reset pusher are perfectly arranged along an arc parallel to the caseband. The case is crafted from solid platinum 950 in the manufacture's own ateliers and leaves nothing to be desired in terms of form and finissage. It takes nearly two weeks to produce a case. What starts out as a platinum bar cold-formed in a high-tonnage press ends up as a masterpiece that complies with all directives of the Patek Philippe Seal. And like all of the manufacture's platinum cases, it features a flawless Top Wesselton diamond between the lugs at 6 o'clock.

The round display back exposes the large and heavy 21K gold winding rotor which keeps the Annual Calendar Chronograph running continuously if it is regularly worn. It is artistically decorated as are the bridges - in this instance not with classic straight Geneva striping but instead with circular graining as an extension of the round pattern on the rotor.

It combines the function of a flyback chronograph with that of the annual calendar, two highly popular complications. The annual calendar is based on a patent granted to Patek Philippe in 1996. It is is a full calendar that automatically recognizes 30- and 31-day months. If the watch runs without interruption, only one manual correction is required each year at the transition from February to March. It displays the day of the week, the date, and the month, and it controls the day/night indicator. The chronograph mechanism of the new Ref. 5905P is just as modern. It remains true to the traditional column wheel for handling the start, stop, and reset commands. However, it controls the clamp of a vertical disk clutch rather than the lever of a horizontal wheel clutch. This solution is characterized by a high degree of reliability. It eliminates the risk of hand bounce or recoil when the chronograph is activated, because it does not rely on meshing wheels. Since the disk clutch works in a practically wear-free manner, the chronograph hand can double as a running seconds hand that does not negatively influence the rate accuracy of the movement. This is why the subsidiary seconds indication, commonplace in most chronographs, was omitted.

The new Ref. 5905 marks a further step forward in the evolution of Patek Philippe's Annual Calendar Chronographs: thanks to creative fine-tuning, it has a clearly distinctive new look. The manifestly elegant model with the blue dial comes with matching navy blue strap. A matt black alligator strap complements the version with the black dial. Both straps are secured with a platinum 950 prong buckle.
 

The watch pays tribute to the Ref. 3969 with a jumping digital hour which was launched in 1989 on the occasion of Patek Philippe's 150th anniversary. It also illustrates how much the manufacture's technical prowess and expertise have progressed during the past 25 years.
A closer look at the Chiming Jump Hour reveals that the seconds hand jumps from one scale marker to the next in one-second steps. As soon as the seconds hand reaches the 60, the minute hand also jumps from one minute marker to the next. And finally, once an hour, the digital display in the aperture at 12 o'clock jumps to the new hour precisely at the same moment when the seconds and minute hands advance. A soft tone can be heard at this moment: the Chiming Jump Hour indicates the top of each hour acoustically as well.

Jumping time indications are complications characterized by a high level of mechanical complexity. In conventional mechanical watches, the hands move continuously in step with the balance. In most watches, it beats at 6 or 8 oscillations per second. With every semi-oscillation, the balance allows the escape wheel to rotate by one tooth, and this motion is transferred to the hands by the going train. The hands move forward incrementally. The seconds hand makes this cadence apparent, but the stepwise motion of the minute and hour hands is barely discernible.

The Chiming Jump Hour also has a balance, and it performs 8 semi-oscillations per second. However, the energy is not directly transferred to the seconds hand. Instead, it is accumulated in a storage mechanism that only releases it to the fourth wheel when the eighth semi-oscillation takes place. Analogously, the power stored during a time interval of 60 seconds must be delivered to the minute hand instantaneously, and the same process occurs after 60 minutes when the digital hour display needs to be advanced as well.

The watch houses the new manually wound caliber 32-650 HGS PS movement. During a period of four years, the in-house ateliers developed mechanisms that could not only store the energy needed for the jumping indications but would also synchronize the jumps of the seconds, minutes, and hours with extreme accuracy. Three patent applications were filed for these solutions. The most conspicuous part is the seconds lever made of Silinvar®, a derivative of silicon. It is connected to a spring which stores the energy of the eight semi-oscillations of the balance that make up one second. With a beak, the lever engages with a wolf-tooth Silinvar® wheel which in turn meshes with the fourth wheel. After every sequence of eight semi-oscillations, the lever is lifted. The wolf-tooth wheel advances by one tooth and moves the fourth wheel by 6 degrees, which causes the seconds hand to jump forward by one second.

The top of every hour is automatically announced with a gentle tone. A slide in the case flank at 10 o'clock can be used to isolate the hammer and disable the automatic hour strike. The mechanism is the subject of the fourth patent application.

The substantial effort invested in these attractive complications is manifested by the 438 meticulously finished parts contained in the refined caliber 32-650 HGS PS movement.

The Chiming Jump Hour is accommodated in a tonneau-shaped platinum case that is also crafted in the manufacture's own ateliers. Like the periphery and the minute circle of the dial, its flanks are decorated with intricate engravings of floral motifs. The small slide for enabling and disabling the hour strike is located at 10 o'clock. The watch has a solid platinum case back with the engraving "PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE 175e Anniversaire 1839 - 2014".

At 12 o'clock, the gold dial features an aperture for the digital hour indication. The minute hand revolves in the off-center minute circle that dominates the top half of the dial while the prominent seconds subdial appears at 6 o'clock.

The Patek Philippe Chiming Jump Hour Ref. 5275 is worn on a shiny black alligator strap secured with a platinum fold-over clasp. It bears the engraved inscription "PATEK PHILIPPE 1839 - 2014" as well as an engraved Calatrava cross in the middle.
The watch comes in a limited anniversary edition of 175 pieces.

Patek Philippe rendered the interior of its manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates unrecognisable even to those familiar with it last night as the brand pulled out all the stops to celebrate its 175th anniversary. Courtyards and gardens made way for a huge temporary indoor structure that housed a lounge area, bars and even a temporary exhibition that included a breathtaking 3D immersion into the movement of its new star piece : The GrandMaster Chime.

In what is, perhaps, a tongue-in-cheek dig at Apple's much-hyped timepiece, Patek Philippe refers to the Grandmaster Chime (reference 5175 for the Patek purists) as an "intelligent watch". For the brand's master watchmakers, however, intelligence in this case meant developing isolators to ensure that certain functions are blocked to avoid damaging the movement while others are in operation, and meticulously hand engraving the names of the functions on the respective pushers.

The sheer magnitude of the new collection, whose star model alone accounted for 100,000 hours of development, production and assembly (4167 days, or 595 weeks, or a mind-boggling 11 years of cumulative work, to save you the counting), is enough to keep even the most die-hard and demanding watch fans salivating for weeks to come. We will indeed be returning to all the new models in detail over the coming days on WorldTempus.

But back to the superlatives for the Grandmaster Chime : 1,366 individual components in the movement and 214 for each pivoting case, which has an astonishingly reasonable 47mm diameter for a wristwatch with a dial on either side and, among its 20 complications, two "striking" functions that have never before been seen in a wristwatch : a striking alarm and a new, patented, striking date.

Our contributor David Chokron will come back to these radical new features, as well as the 18 other complications, just as soon as he has had time to digest the many functions of this new piece. WorldTempus will also take a closer look, of course, into the other new timepieces presented for Patek Philippe's 175th anniversary, for which names for once take priority over reference numbers (to the delight of those with dyscalculia).

Look out for more details, therefore, on the beautifully engraved dial of the Chiming Jumping Hour (ref. 5275) the World Time Moon (ref. 5575 and 7175) and the Multi-Scale Chronographs (ref. 5975 and 4675) plus a whole series of watches that show off the brand's rare handcraft capabilities. 

Brice Lechevalier: Next year, Patek Philippe will celebrate its 175th birthday. What can you tell us about this ?
Thierry Stern: For the past four years, a small team of five people has been dedi- cated to developing watchmaking projects for the 175th anniversary. Like the 150th we will launch several categories of items, both ladies and men's, in the hope of surprising our clients. Part of my objective is to deliver all these new aesthetic and technical new releases within a maximum of two or three years. Aside from this, the Baselworld public will also discover 2014 collection, all of it housed in a brand new stand.
What were your priorities during these first three years of your presidency ?
Two mainly : reassure the markets regarding my intentions for continuity, and convince people internally of my sense of responsibility. In fact, one of Patek's strengths lies in its very long term vision, which means one of the requirements of the presidency is to ensure that the know-how implemented by our predecessors is sustainable, without giving into the sirens of opportunistic marketing. I have travelled extensively to meet our retailers and explain to them that I was going to preserve this heritage. I think it is very important to reinforce their confidence, above all in times of crisis, and to ensure them that Patek will continue its efforts in the realm of innovation and development in order to be able to continue delivering the best quality timepieces in the world.
I was fortunate to take up the presidency at the right time. My father was very careful not to put me in this position too young, and we talked a lot about it beforehand, while working together officially for a long time. This enabled me to move to the next level quite serenely. Having said that, internally, working with the president's son is not the same thing as working with someone who has become the president. We have 14 divisions managed by the same number of people who are expert in their realms, and to be able to engage with these professionals on their level is essential in terms of credibility and responsibilities, which are considerable. I count on them a lot so that I can focus on my role as the temple guardian.
What will they be for the next three years ?
Unquestionably to preserve our independence in terms of production. The groups are very active and we often participate in supplier purchases. In addition, a great deal of investment has been made in what I call useful innovation, such as in the domain of the escapement, compared with relatively little in seeking to create small or thin movements. This however is one of our assets, which has enabled us to offer complicated timepieces for women that many now envy us. I therefore intend to continue improving the quality of our movements by focusing on the size, precision and traditional aesthetics, without artifice. Silicon is a good example : this is a plus for the escapement, but brings nothing to a bridge or a balance.

What is your strategy with regard to your distribution network ?
As Patek Philippe was not able to supply 700 points of sale, we decided a few years ago to reduce the number. The current scope of 450 retailers corresponds to our capacity. We would like however to improve our visibility with the more strategic amongst them, in some instances by implementing corners, or by implementing boutiques managed by them as is already the case for 23 of them. One of the major challenges will be to train salespeople. They need to be completely professional and be able to provide arguments to a client who requires a comparison between two brands. Finally, we also need to be careful and uphold strict, clear rules, amongst other things in markets that are subject to exchange rate fluctuations.
In times of crisis, clients turn to safe havens. What is happening in a period that is hard to quantify like the one in which we are currently living ?
The period doesn't make much difference despite being difficult - our annual production of 50 000 watches is still way lower than the demand. Clients still want to invest in a Patek, whose models hold or increase their value. This encourages me even more to remain concentrated on our creative rhythm and our quality capital.
Which 2013 new release are you most proud ?
Complications are very important for Patek, but I have always maintained that a collection should be built from both ends and that one should not overlook young people wishing to purchase an attractive watch for their wedding or graduation. Consequently, for three years I have been working on a new Calatrava that is both accessible and attractive to 20-30 years olds. I have delved very far into the aesthetic research and refinement, to the point where I postponed it for a year so as to ensure that I was 100% satisfied. This model has an automatic movement, a new dial and a brand-new case, and we are offering it in three colours to start off with. Its design is splendid, and in this respect the case particularly will appeal to lovers of the genre.
What is the ultimate in hyper-complication for you?
It seems to me that we went a long way with the Star Caliber. In my view, it's not the number of complications that count but the ability to assemble them within a 42 mm diameter whose thickness is compatible with wearing a suit. With its 701 parts, reference 5208 for example represents the limit we can risk in terms of hard-hitting aesthetics. The ultimate for me lies in achieving the quality of a tourbillon, without a tourbillon. A beautiful, discreet watch with an extraordinary degree of precision. Silicon may help us, but we will test the reliability of our prototypes for years before being certain of that reliability.
During the 2011 Only Watch event, your reference 3939 in steel sold for €1.4 million. What unique piece are you working on this time?
The piece is finished because we made it far in advance with an idea of continuity. There is a logical sequence and the buyer who purchases it with the aim of completing their collection will be the happiest Patek collector in the world. I am almost jealous! In theory, the amount for which it is sold is likely to be higher than in 2011, but as always, this depends on the parties involved. From the beginning, we decided to step up to the plate in order to support the partnership with Luc Pettavino in his research on muscular dystrophy. To do even better than this in 2015 looks set to be a tough challenge !

Antiquorum's May 13 auction of "Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces, Featuring the 40th Anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak" totaled CHF 7,466,737 with 148 % sold by value. This brought the total of Antiquorum spring sales in Geneva to 13,766,737 CHF.
 
Lively bidding for the collection of 469 modern and vintage timepieces was seen in the room as well as on the phone and internet. Bidders participated from all corners of the globe including from Hong Kong, Taiwan, The Russian Federation, Germany, the United States as well as Switzerland.

WORLDTEMPUS - 1st December 2011

Aurel Bacs, auctioneer and co-head of Christie´s watch department since 2003, slammed his gavel against the rostrum once more as he approached the last of the 427 lots of the auction held at Geneva's Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. The "Important Watches" sale on November 14 was going to achieve an excess of 21 million euros - thanks in part to the contribution of a group of Patek Philippe wristwatches.
The Genevan brand has consistently gained both in value and relevance to a wide group of collectors, and currently shows no sign of decreasing this upward swing. The most important watch auctions of the last two decades organized by powerhouses like Christies, Sotheby's and Antiquorum all reflect the same relentless interest by avid collectors from around the world. The historic manufacture that gave the world horological masterpieces such as the Graves Super Complication and Caliber 89 had the good fortune of producing some of the most interesting mechanical wristwatches of the twentieth century, a legacy that continues to inspire today's new models. It therefore comes as no real surprise that three extremely rare wristwatches by the brand should change hands for an excess of one million euros.

Lot 252 
In the period that followed the end of World War II, Patek Philippe's collection was much different than the one presented during the first half of the twentieth century. Watches were now produced in series, and most of them had clearly identifiable serial numbers. As a consequence of this change, unique pieces and special orders were considered the exception. The production of complicated watches increased to dozens and even hundreds of pieces, although small series occasionally had the good fortune of seeing the light of day. And so it was with the present Reference 3449, of which only three examples are known to have been produced following the completion of the last pieces of References 2497 and 2438/1 and preceding the release of Reference 3448 by a year. This was a coincidence that allows it to be considered an experimental or even transitional series - justifying the price of 1,190,463 euros it recently reached at auction.

Lot 141
Released in 1943, Reference 1579 was mainly encased in yellow gold with only a handful of models in steel. The platinum case of the present example, of which no additional model is expected to be discovered, increases the known number of its kind to only three worldwide, all of them with consequent serial numbers. These aspects define the rarity of this particular Patek Philippe chronograph, along with the contribution of the relatively large 36 mm case and beautiful facetted lugs known as "spider lugs." However, there is another fact that justifies the price Reference 1579 achieved at auction: during the 40 years wristwatch chronograph production outfitted with Caliber 13´´´130 by Patek Philippe, no other reference has been housed in a platinum case. The reason why the brand dared to release a small series of platinum-encased chronographs with various colored dials right after the end of the World War II is unknown. Specialists tend to think that it was to impress the public with the brand's savoir-faire rather than special orders. This Reference 1579 was sold to a collector for 1,656,339 euros.

Lot 88
When it was introduced in 1962, Reference 3448 assumed the title of the first automatic wristwatch with perpetual calendar, of which 585 pieces were manufactured. Its Caliber 27-460 remains to this day one of the most sophisticated and fascinating automatic movements ever made, and would later evolve into Caliber 27-460 Q and 27-460 QB. This Reference 3448 reached the highest bid of the entire auction not only due to its intrinsic rarity, but also because of its extraordinarily original and untarnished condition - something very unusual for a gold wristwatch from 1968 considering that over time the polishing and cleaning of the case and lugs would induce a rounding of its edges. Until the day of its discovery in 2011, when it finally exited the safe of a private collector, it was accepted that Reference 3448 was mainly housed in yellow gold cases, with a few examples in white gold and only two in platinum. Discussions among connoisseurs regarding the existence of a very small series of only two Reference 3448s in rose gold still did not prepare collectors for the actual discovery of one them. The myth, seldom referred to as pure speculation, had suddenly become reality. Reference 3448 in rose gold was possibly made by special request for a South American client and represented the highlight of the auction by changing hands for 1,749,701 euros.

WORLDTEMPUS - 22 December 2010

With Christmas just around the corner, Warsaw's Sobanski Palace hosted the very first award gala celebrating the Chronos24.pl Watch of the Year 2010 (Zegarek Roku 2010). Six watches were awarded artistically handmade statuettes, which were received by guests hailing from leading Swiss and German manufactures.
Charmingly lit against the backdrop of the first winter snow, Warsaw's city center welcomed guests including representatives of Polish luxury watch distributors to this first annual event, which would not have been possible without Chronos24.pl's partner, the Polish Watch & Clocks Collectors Club, and the main sponsor, MBA Manager magazine.
The evening formally began with an official introduction of the competition and jury comprising editors from chronos24.pl, the board of the Polish Watch & Clocks Collectors Club, and Waldemar Ferri-Szczerbowski (Meeting Art). This event, called to life by Tomasz Kieltyka, CEO of Chronos24.pl, and Dariusz Chlastawa, president of the Polish Watch & Clocks Collectors Club, is the only such event in the still emerging, but highly promising Polish market.

The award ceremony began with the category "Up to 5,000 PLN" (Polish zloty, equivalent to about 2,500 Swiss francs). This prize went to the Oris Oscar Peterson model and was received by Vladimir Kalensky, head of Janeba Time, official Oris distributor and owner of the Oris boutique in Warsaw. The category "Ladies Watch" was taken home by Patek Philippe for the stunning 7071R Ladies First Chronograph. Unfortunately, a Patek Philippe brand representative was not able to make it to Warsaw. Next up was the award for "Classic Watch," an important category for many watch lovers around the world. The prestigious winner here was the Senator Sixties Panorama Date by Glashutte Original. A visibly pleased Andreas Zechner (Polish brand manager) received the statuette wearing the winning watch on his hand - a unique piece made especially for the evening. This was followed by the "Sports Watch" category, which was bly competitive. The magnificent and highly anticipated Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver triumphed. Area sales manager Burhan Ademi collected the statuette while promising the joyful Polish audience that Audemars Piguet would reopen the Polish market. The haute horlogerie "Complicated Watch" category was won by Jaeger-LeCoultre's amazing creation Duometre a Quantieme Lunaire. The brand's representative, Wolfgang Lackner, received the award wearing the mechanical marvel in red gold on his wrist.

 
The two final categories closed the formal part of the evening. The "Public Choice" prize was awarded by readers of chronos24.pl who voted on a dedicated competition website from September 1 to October 30. This democratic choice went to the Omega Planet Ocean Liquid Metal. The prize was accepted by Stanley Bark, president of Swatch Group Poland, who talked about the extreme popularity of the piece all over the world.
The jury chose most important prize of the competition, the Grand Prix of Watch of The Year 2010, from the five winners of the other categories. The Grand Prix went to the Royal Oak Offshore Diver by Audemars Piguet. The memorial plaque was accepted by Ademi and Nicolas Kappenberger, Audemars Piguet's country general manager.
The unofficial part of the evening was spent examining the guests' passion for watches and watchmaking and their admiration of the quality and artistry of mechanical timepieces. Talk easily led to discussing the future of this popular art form, that of the competition, and the increasing development of the Polish watch market.

"This was an exceptional competition and an exceptional night," said Tomasz Kieltyka, CEO of Chronos24.pl. "This is Poland's only annual celebration in which timepieces play the leading role, proving that watching the hours go by can be not only pleasant but also beautiful. Furthermore, the number of representatives of manufacturers and distributors who attended the ceremony is a clear indication of the strengthening of Poland's position on the watch map of Europe. We can appreciate luxury and are more willing to spend on it." -.
The Watch of the Year 2011 is destined to be bigger and better still. We hope you will join us.

WORLDTEMPUS - 23 December 2010

Naturally, my favorite element of this watch is its movement, and one of the reasons for that is simple: Patek Philippe actually debuted its first full in-house chronograph movement late last fall in a ladies' watch christened Ladies First.
Four months later, at Baselworld 2010, the men's edition followed. As one might expect, it was fully clothed in traditional Patek Philippe dress: a classic, yellow gold, 39 mm Calatrava model whose appearance is based on a design from the 1940s. The fact that Patek Philippe - the brand considered the reference in good taste regarding classic watchmaking - has kept its new men's watch to 39 mm is telling. Patek Philippe obviously expects this size to remain the classic for generations to come. The new movement is already justifiably a classic.
Manually wound chronograph Caliber CH 29-535 PS incorporates six patented innovations and numerous technical improvements over Patek Philippe's previous base chronograph caliber, which was based on Nouvelle Lemania technology. These include hacking seconds, a 28,800 vph balance frequency, and a traditional horizontal clutch. "We wanted this to be a fully traditional movement," Laurent Junod, who is in charge of Patek Philippe's U.S. service center, explained during the launch of Ladies First.
The running of the chronograph is, however, something completely new and rather unique. The 269 components making up Caliber 29-535 PS were conceived to allow the sweep second counter also act as the running second hand, precipitating a virtually unheard-of state for such a movement. It boasts a guaranteed 65 hours of power reserve with the chronograph running and more than 70 hours if the timer is not in action.
Naturally, Caliber CH 29-535 PS is christened with the new Patek Philippe seal, which fulfills all the criteria of the Seal of Geneva and more.