Patek Philippe - Calatrava Haute Joaillerie reference 4895R
The stage for the rich diamond-set wreath of the Ref. 4895R is an 18K rose gold case modeled after the classic round Calatrava style that dates back to 1932 when Patek Philippe first introduced this graceful design. The 162 baguette diamonds (~5.62 ct.) are draped around the dial in up to five rows and have flared ends over the strap. All the stones in the baguette rows are closed-set, creating a lovely contrast between the warm rose gold hue of the bezels and the white gleam of the diamonds.
The classic 18K rose gold prong buckle is set with 20 baguette diamonds (~0.72 ct.) and secures a very fine shiny alligator strap with large square scales in a shade of black that perfectly matches the color of the dial.
The dial is at once unpretentious and elegant. Its rich black color contrasts against the white of the diamonds and the opulent warmth of rose gold. This black is created by consecutively applying twelve coats of lacquer, and each coat must be absolutely immaculate. Even the slightest dust particle trapped in one of these many coats would ruin the dial, so clean-room conditions are essential.
The next critical phase involves drilling the bore for the arbors of the Dauphine hour and minute hands as well as all 24 holes for the tiny feet of the twelve applied arrow hour markers that are securely riveted to the dial from the rear. Plenty of work is also involved in the making of the 18K hands and hour markers themselves. The two facets of the Dauphine hands and the three facets of the hour markers are mirror-polished, forming a crisp geometrical profile accentuated with the sharp ridge in the middle.
The caliber 215 movement is a legendary movement that has been permanently refined since it was launched more than forty years ago. It can be admired through the display back of the new ladies' Calatrava Ref. 4895R. Its elegantly curved train bridge, the barrel bridge, the straight balance cock, and the independent escape wheel bridge are decorated with Geneva striping and feature glistening round-chamfered, mirror-polished edges.
Parts of the main plate can be seen between the bridges and wheels. It is decorated with perlage composed of numerous small, overlapping cloudlike stipples. The movement beats with a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 hertz) and is endowed with a Patek Philippe Gyromax® balance as well as a patented Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar®. Thanks to its unique properties and proprietary geometry, this innovative silicon-based material contributes significantly to the excellent rate accuracy of the watch. Not least, this is guaranteed by the strict directives of the Patek Philippe Seal, which for the caliber 215 tolerates daily rate deviations of no more than -3 to +2 seconds. It can be identified by the gold-filled "double-P" engraving in the escape-wheel bridge.
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