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Top Quality Patek Philippe Automatic Watches (305) Items
Top Quality Patek Philippe Automatic Watches (305) Items

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  • Patek Philippe - Chronographe a rattrapante reference 5370

    For decades, split-seconds chronographs that allow lap times to be measured without interrupting an ongoing event time measurement have ranked among the most coveted Patek Philippe specialties. That was already the case in the 1920s, when the manufacture not only presented its first wristwatch chronometer but added the rattrapante function right from the start.

    For the first time, the Ref. 5370 incorporates the calibre CHR 29-535 PS in its pure form without the added complication of a perpetual calendar. With the Ref. 5370, Patek Philippe also extended its range of pure split-seconds chronographs with a two-pusher model, a stopwatch with two pushers for the basic start, stop, reset functions and an additional on/off button in the crown for the split-seconds function.

    The calibre CHR 29-535 PS movement, developed and crafted in-house, melds tradition with innovation. Its traditional facet is the underlying concept of a manually wound movement with column-wheel control and a horizontal wheel clutch that remains the benchmark for many friends of mechanical watches. To preserve this heritage in the 21st century, it was optimized in many respects and endowed with patented innovations:
    - Clutch wheels with patented tooth profiles boost efficiency in power transmission and reduce wear.
    - The mesh depth of the clutch wheels is not adjusted with an eccentric next to the clutch lever; this is done much more precisely and easily with an eccentric column wheel cap at the outermost end of the clutch lever.
    - Self-adjusting hammers in jewel bearings simplify the servicing procedure.
    - The brake lever that stops the chronograph wheel is directly synchronized with the clutch lever.
    - The slotted minute-counter cam coasts the chronograph and split-seconds hands to a stop rather than abruptly blocking them.

    These new features of the mechanical chronograph are joined by innovations dedicated exclusively to the rattrapante function:
    - When lap times are stopped, a newly designed isolator uncouples the split-seconds wheel from the chronograph wheel to eliminate unwanted friction and prevent a degradation of balance amplitude while the split-seconds hand is immobilized.
    - The split-seconds lever that positions a ruby roller between two flat heart cam shoulders keeps the chronograph and split-seconds hands precisely aligned as long as they are superposed.

    A glance at the dial illustrates what in Geneva is deemed functional beauty: fast and exact legibility without unnecessary embellishments that distract from the essence. Thanks to slender leaf-shaped hands with luminous coatings as well as the applied Breguet numerals in white gold, the time is eminently readable. Stopped times are also superbly legible with the slender chronograph and congruent split-seconds hands in rhodiumed steel as well as the instantaneous 30-minute chronograph counter hand in white gold and the white printed scales that stand out prominently against the black background.

    Enamel dials challenge the skills of the dialmakers to the extreme. The solid white-gold dial of the Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph is first coated with black enamel by hand. The coating is melted in an oven at 850°C and then allowed to solidify to a glasslike consistency by controlled cooling. The result is an intense black that preserves its depth and gloss across centuries.

    The CHR 29-535 PS calibre comes in a platinum case of befitting stature. The watch is mounted on a hand-stitched alligator leather strap with large square scales, and a platinum 950 fold-over clasp.

  • Grand Complications - Horology's Pinnacle

    Last week, Patek Philippe introduced a new rendition of the Sky Moon Tourbillon, which was first introduced to the watch world in the year 2001 as Reference 5002. The Sky Moon Tourbillon displays the time, retrograde date, perpetual calendar (day, month, leap year, moon phase, angular motion of moon), and a chart of the stars in the sky on the front dial. The time displayed here can also be heard thanks to a minute repeater on two cathedral gongs. On the back, another time display indicates sidereal time as well as the meridian passage of Sirius and the moon against the backdrop of a deep blue-and-gold celestial chart. The beat is kept by means of a traditional one-minute tourbillon.
    This wristwatch measuring 42.8 mm in diameter and 16.25 mm in height is the most complicated wristwatch in Patek Philippe's repertoire, and the company calls it a grand complication. However - and this may seem like nitpicking to some - it does not contain a chronograph.
    The unofficial rules of horology state that in order to be able to wear the title of grand complication, the movement must also contain a chronograph of some sort in addition to an astronomical complication (such as a calendar) and a striking complication (like a repeater or a sonnerie). Naturally, these rules are unwritten therefore subject to interpretation by the maker (or owner) of such complicated timepieces. Boasting twelve complications in total, the Sky Moon Tourbillon is without doubt an exceedingly complicated wristwatch - and an instant classic.


    The classic grand complication
    This year's SIHH saw the introduction of not one, but two classic grand complication wristwatches. One represents a milestone by Saxon watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne: the 1815 Grand Complication. Containing seven complications, it is the most complex wristwatch ever manufactured solely by the traditional German manufacturer, and with that most likely ever in Germany. Its functions include grand sonnerie, petite sonnerie and minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and monopusher split-seconds chronograph (thus fulfilling all three of the criteria) in addition to foudroyante seconds and a moon phase display. One watchmaker will work on a single one of these watches for an entire year, assembling, adapting and regulating. Inspired by the recently resurfaced and fully overhauled Reference 42500 pocket watch from 1902, the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Grand Complication's Caliber L.1902 contains 876 components.


    "Celebrating" the twentieth anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore model - an ultra-sporty rendition of the evergreen Royal Oak - at the 2013 SIHH Audemars Piguet also introduced a classic grand complication wristwatch. The Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication may seem too sporty for this classic set of high functions, but its automatic Caliber 2885 comprising 648 components easily accommodates the minute repeater, perpetual calendar and split-seconds chronograph.
    An excellent example of contemporary horology in titanium and ceramics, the Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication, issued in a three-piece limited edition only, is individually executed by a single artisan, who will devote more than 820 hours of painstaking craftsmanship to the task.


    Instant classic
    Atelier Loiseau's masterpiece 1f4, which premiered at Baselworld 2011, needed six years of development and 15,000 hours at the bench. Boasting what the firm calls "instant dial reversibility" (there is one dial on each side: one "classic" and one "skeleton"; the owner can choose which dial to show at any given time), a flying tourbillon and 32 separate functions, it nonetheless remains an exceptionally slim dual automatic wristwatch - dual because it has two patented peripheral rotors, one to wind the movement and one to power the strike train. Thanks to master watchmaker Dominique Loiseau's highly creative solution, the timepiece itself remains only 16.64 mm in height. This type of ingenuity should come as no surprise since Loiseau was the creator of Blancpain's ultra-slim 1775 grand complication.
    Its many functions include the following: monopusher split-second chronograph, day/night indication, second time zone, equation of time, grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie, minute repeater, perpetual calendar with leap year and moon phase and day of week. Thanks to the presence of chronograph, calendar and repeater, the 1f4 is indeed a classic grand complication even though it looks anything but classic. Only two pieces can be produced per year by the exclusive Genevan workshop.
     


    Naturally, how such complicated masterpieces are described are in the end up to the whims of its owner. Just like it is fully up to the owner whether he or she decides to wear such a rare timepiece. I know I would, and I know I wouldn't care what they are called.

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Patek Philippe Automatic

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