Patek Philippe - Confirming an enduring and universal appeal
While some may say that Patek Philippe is simply confirming the trend seen at the SIHH 2013, one should in fact look back to 2010-2011 in order to render to Caesar that which belongs to Caesar. Patek Philippe was the first Fine Watchmaking brand to devote itself so fully to complications for women. While there are indeed a number of white or gemset tourbillons, or chronographs with undeniably feminine touches, at Patek Philippe this approach reflects a deeply ingrained determination that is confirmed with each new collection launch. Witness the models introduced at Baselworld 2013, most of which are mechanical.
For women
After the split-second or minute repeater models clothed in diamonds and daintily sized, the 7134 travel time model comes in a gemset white gold case framing a taupe-coloured dial. In the same spirit, the worldtimer 7130 reference comes in a new pink gold and diamond-set livery. These are not new models as such, but rather range extensions. But the very fact that these models with pragmatic complications are being interpreted in new colours offers further proof of their success and of Patek Philippe's determination. In parallel, several lighter models are being introduced and the distinctive Nautilus 7018 model welcomes new dials: instead of the grooved motif inherited from the masculine versions, they now feature a wave pattern adorning the mother-of-pearl base.
For collectors
Nor are men neglected, far from it. The flagship model of any given year is generally displayed in a prime position on the brand booth and introduced in detail at press presentations. For 2013, the watch in question is the Gondolo reference 5200. Derived from the 5100 launched in 2000, it picks up the same aesthetic principle - a vertical rectangle with a cambered profile and gadroons - as well as the comfortable 8-day power reserve. The latter appears at 12 o'clock on a choice of blue or silver-toned dial, with the day and date shown just below on their respective disc and pointer-type displays. Patek generally indicates the date only on such models, or else moves on directly to annual or perpetual calendar type versions, so the day-date combination is a surprise in this case, and one that implies a number of technical innovations.
For posterity
In purely aesthetic terms, Patek Philippe is generally known for its extremely sober, understated designs. Reference 5227 is no exception to this rule. This watch offered in yellow, pink or white gold versions is a high-end addition to the Calatrava range and the largest in this line at 39 mm. Another attractive characteristic lies in the lighter, hollowed case sides that were also featured in the Grande Complication reference 5207. The caseback appears to be solid, but is in fact based on the officer-type principle involving a cover that opens to reveal the self-winding 324 SC movement. Its 3.3 mm thickness enables the 5227 to stay slim, sober… and resolutely Patek.
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