Patek Philippe - Wowing Them All
WORLDTEMPUS - 26 March 2011
Visiting the Patek Philippe booth, one hardly knew where to look first: a new interpretation of the chronograph perpetual calendar (Ref. 5270) was quickly followed by a brand new minute repeater with monopusher chronograph and perpetual calendar (Ref. 5208). The latter actually represents the second most complicated timepiece in Patek Philippe's current production after the Sky Moon Tourbillon model. Boasting more than 700 individual components and costing 825,000 Swiss francs, this triple complication in a Calatrava case also contains some silicon components such as the Spiromax balance spring and the Pulsomax escapement.
Reference 5216 is a new minute repeater with tourbillon, perpetual calendar, retrograde date and moon phase, while Reference 5073 with minute repeater and perpetual calendar is set with 158 baguette-cut diamonds (5.27 ct).
Ladies First - again
In an extremely surprising - yet incredibly satisfying - move, the traditional brand also introduces two major complications for women, the first such pieces ever produced. The Ladies First Minute Repeater (Ref. 7000) is an ultra-thin (5.05 mm high) repeating wristwatch in a rose gold officer's style case with hinged case back. The Ladies First Split-Seconds Chronograph (Ref. 7059) is the world's thinnest rattrapante: only 5.25 mm in height and boasting two column wheels, it also comes in a round officer's style rose gold case. Needless to say, these two beauties are styled to appeal to feminine aficionados while retaining absolutely traditional elements.
More ladies
Other purpose-built ladies watches include a 36 mm automatic world timer with micro rotor and 62 diamonds on the bezel (Ref. 7130); an ultra-thin, fully skeletonized manually wound movement in a 31.4 mm gold case on a gold bracelet (Ref. 7180); the first ladies Nautilus with automatic movement (Ref. 7008), and Reference 7041, a Gondolo in the same 30 x 33.8 mm rose gold case that the original Ladies First chronograph came in in November 2009. This feminine timepiece with 108 diamonds around the outside of the dial houses manually wound Caliber 215 PS.
Reference 5153 is a no-nonsense automatic (Caliber 324 S C) with date, sweep seconds, and a wonderful hand-guilloche dial that comes in a 38 mm white gold case that could well be considered unisex. It also boasts the hinged case back of an officer's style case.
Following 1999's introduction of the Twenty-4 model, this year marks a bold milestone for Patek Philippe in terms of drawing female connoisseurs. "We've gone from 0 to 100 in 3-4 years in terms of complications for ladies," Larry Petinelli, president of Patek Philippe USA, remarked this week.
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