Salon QP - Intense and Growing
WORLDTEMPUS - 12 November 2012
In its second year at Chelsea's Saatchi Gallery, SalonQP was bigger and better than ever in its fourth edition. Not only was it filled with some of the finest and most renowned brands watchmaking has to offer, but this year's edition also boasted an entire gallery of independent makers, a ladies' corner for learning about gems and jeweled timepieces, and a movie premier.
Premiering
I'm sure this sounded intriguing in the paragraph above: a "movie premier." And, indeed, it intrigued me too. Dam Productions, an independent media company based on the Isle of Man, has made an extraordinarily moving documentary chronicling George Daniels' last days called "The Watchmaker's Apprentice" - and inevitably also stars Roger Smith. The one-hour film with voiceovers by John Rhys Davies shown during the event was a cut of the film created especially for SalonQP; the final version will also contain character animations of Daniels and Smith. Regardless of how much you know or don't know about Daniels' art - or watchmaking in general - the film is bound to appeal to you in a philosophical or biographical way.
Talking
The accompanying lecture series during this edition of SalonQP was more interesting than ever. Maria Doulton ("the jewelry editor") gave informal talks accompanied by a glass of bubbly on feminine jewelry watches that also allowed participants to try the rare pieces on and even have themselves photographed with them.
The seminar theater sponsored by Harrod's included talks by watchmakers, technical directors, and designers: Emmanuel Bouchet spoke about his Harry Winston Opus 12; Gregoire Matthey explained how Corum mastered the Golden Bridge; and industry expert Ian Skellern presented the C3H5N3O9 (Nitroglycerin), a collaborative timepiece by Urwerk and MB&F. To name just a few.
Launching
Big brands took the special opportunity of SalonQP to launch new products or have brand ambassadors join for an evening to talk shop with visitors. Thus, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin launched the Amvox 7 on the opening evening. Visitors had the rare privilege of speaking with Aston Martin CEO Dr. Ulrich Bez, head designer Marek Reichman, and Jaeger-LeCoultre director of marketing Stephane Belmont about the new, unlimited chronograph.
Corum brought brand ambassador Ben Ainslie to the opening evening to chat with consumers about sailing, water-resistant watches and the brand that he sought out himself. TAG Heuer's head brain, Guy Semon, was also on hand to discuss technical aspects of the brand's new concept watches with consumers.
Doing
Jaquet Droz transported one of the factory's enamellers to London to demonstrate the art of artistic dials to visitors. Vacheron Constantin had both Jeanne Ulrich on hand to demonstrate engraving and a rose engine for visitors to try out themselves. Hermes' Delia Ionescu also showed consumers how to put saddle stitches into Hermes' own straps. Last but not least, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie displayed its extensive exhibition on "The Mastery of Time."
Being Independent
One of the most fun halls was found next to the vodka and champagne bar (perhaps this is why?): the independents' gallery. With about 20 independent watchmakers and boutique brands on hand, there was plenty of artistry for the visitor to learn about. These artists included MB&F, Speake-Marin, Urwerk, De Bethune, Ressence, Kari Voutilainen, Stepan Sarpaneva, the Grönefeld brothers, Andreas Strehler, Badollet, and many others. The foot traffic was heavy in this hall, once again underscoring the unbroken interest in a non-corporate art form.
English Watchmaking
Certainly, Roger Smith headed the English brigade this year, though he did not have an official booth at SalonQP. Through talks and the above-mentioned documentary, he seemed to be on the collective minds of participants and visitors.
However, it was once again Bremont who stole the show. Nick English brought Horatio Nelson's own pocket watch to SalonQP (along with a guard from Portsmouth's National Museum of the Royal Navy, where it is usually on display) to underscore its relationship to Bremont's Victory model launched in July.
Peter Roberts, a legendary watchmaker in the English horological scene who can boast having instructed the likes of Peter Speake-Marin and Stephen Forsey (of Greubel Forsey), is now technical director of Bremont. Additionally, Roberts used the seminar talk entitled "40 Years of Watchmaking" to announce that "it's now or never": the brilliant technician is launching his own 40-piece limited run of a wristwatch entitled Grand Complication 5. Based on vintage hand-finished and hand-restored Valjoux 88 movements, it includes a column-wheel chronograph, a 24-hour GMT indication, a full calendar (day, date, month) and moon phase. All shown by legible hands.
Resident "Englishman in Switzerland" Peter Speake-Marin exhibited at the show, premiering a new version of his wildly popular Spirit model, as did local favorite Schofield - whose Giles Ellis gave a brilliant talk on the nature of design. Robert Loomes entered the public's consciousness with an "all English" watch based on a cache of vintage Smiths movements. Other components such as the case and crystal are sourced from English suppliers.
Yes, it was an action-packed three days, and well worth the trip.