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Top Quality Rolex 36.00 mm Watches (705) Items
Top Quality Rolex 36.00 mm Watches (705) Items

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  • Vintage watches - The traps to avoid

    The vintage watch market has been experiencing a boom over the past few years. With a multiplication in the number of distribution channels for vintage watches, which can now be purchased at auctions, from specialist dealers or on the Internet, the number of scams has increased proportionately. "The vintage watch business is a jungle, especially on the Internet," says Laurent Ponti, a watch dealer who has been established in Geneva for 13 years. It's a jungle from which you can nevertheless emerge unscathed, with a nice watch on your wrist, on one condition: you respect a few basic principles.

    Pleasure above all

    There is no point trying to make a good investment regardless. Any respectable dealer will advise you to buy something that you like. "We can never guarantee that a watch that a customer buys will increase in value," Laurent Ponti stresses. Taking the time to determine your own needs and desires is also important, according to Vanessa Chicha, co-founder with her husband Fabien of Iconeek, a website with a showroom in Geneva that specialises in second-hand, vintage and modern watches. "Buying a watch just for the sake of it is pointless. There needs to be an impulse, even if it has to be thought out." Aside from legendary collectors' models such as the Rolex Daytona, the Omega Speedmaster, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso or any Patek Philippe, it is not always easy to navigate your way around a mind-boggling selection of vintage watches. Getting advice from someone in the business, or an expert, is therefore undoubtedly a good idea. "A bit of surfing on the Internet may help you to narrow things down," says Vanessa Chicha, pointing out at the same time that you need to be careful not to be duped by the goods on offer.


    The dangers of buying on the Internet
    "Before buying a watch, people often say that you need to buy the dealer. In other words, know who you are dealing with." Laurent Ponti advises us to make sure we are well informed about the seller. If he has a storefront, his reputation will often precede him. If it is an online sale, you must be doubly cautious and above all take the time to communicate in detail with the seller. Another misconception that you are bly advised to forget about: that of doing the deal of the century. "There are no good deals on the Internet," Laurent Ponti assures us. In other words, beware of prices that are too tempting to be true. "There are many scams."

    Be extra-careful with details

    Whether you are buying from a shop or on the Internet, if the seller appears to be a trustworthy person you still need to pay attention to some important elements. Ideally, the watch should come with its original paperwork. This is generally the case for younger watches. For older watches, for which paperwork may have disappeared, we bly recommend that you ask for a valuation. And it is essential to get an invoice from the seller. If the watch is offered for sale by a professional dealer, he will usually check the serial number beforehand. His good relationship with the brands will also allow him to authenticate certain models. But be careful with some details: "Very often dials have been cleaned up," notes Vanessa Chicha. Just changing a single hand could change the watch's value completely. Although collectors may not fall into such traps, the humble watch lover who is drawn in by an attractive price - between 10% and 50% below the cost of a new watch - could very easily have his fingers burned. Keep an eye on the market, take your time and get help… This is the best way to avoid being conned.
     

  • Chanel - Lasting luxury in the heart of Parisian culture

    The boutique was open for three months ending on September 1, in time to take advantage of the summer tourist season. In a crisp decor bathing in the signature black and white colors of Coco Chanel, the boutique showcased some of the house's iconic models, immortalized by the talents of the photographer Patrick Demarchelier who shot Chanel's most recent publicity campaign titled "L'Instant Chanel."

    The boutique offered museum visitors, on their way to see Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa, a chance to admire Chanel's new J12-365, the new Premiere with its triple row bracelet, and the J12 Blue Light, a version of the J12 in white "hi-tech" ceramic and luminescent blue numerals.


    "The idea of the pop-up store was a reference to 1987 when we first opened a boutique dedicated to watches on Avenue Montaigne that launched a new era in watchmaking for Chanel," said Nicolas Beau, international director of Chanel Horlogerie. "Our goal has always been to make beautiful watches where mechanics are at the service of aesthetics," Mr. Beau said.

    For a brand that places a high value on creativity and aesthetics, the enclosure of Musee du Louvre, one of France's most revered cultural venues, offers the means to combine the experience of a luxury boutique with that of an art museum. For Chanel, it is a means to intimate the association between luxury and cultural heritage, inscribing its luxury products in the long-term tradition of culture.

    "The appeal of Chanel's products is their lasting appeal," Mr. Beau explained.  "The Chanel no. 5 perfume has been around since 1921. It is not a trend-based product. The same is true of the little black dress and the quilted Chanel bag."

    The relationship to art allows luxury products to acquire the characteristics of art by association, including uniqueness, legitimacy and permanence. "Chanel makes products that last and remain desirable," Mr. Beau said. "Few luxury brands have a portfolio of products with an endless lifetime. That is what lives in the Chanel name and was invented by Gabriel Chanel."

    Over the years, Chanel has experimented with the idea of connecting art to its luxury products. In 2008, for instance, it commissioned the Mobile Art Pavilion, a 700-square meter futuristic structure designed by the Pritzker-award winning architect, Zaha Hadid, filled with works commissioned from 20 international contemporary artists asked to interpret the brand's iconic quilted 2.55 handbag, the black, stitched-leather purse designed by Coco Chanel in 1955.


    Establishing a presence, ephemeral or not, in close proximity to the Louvre, a prime international cultural destination, also enables luxury brands to benefit from the rising trend in cultural tourism.

    Last year, the Louvre welcomed 9.3 million visitors making it not just the most visited attraction in Paris, but also the most visited museum in the world, ahead of the British Museum in London (with 6.7 million visitors) and the Metropolitan Museum in New York (with 6.3 million visitors), according to figures published last April by the Art Newspaper.  

    According to Paolo de Cesare, Le Printemps's president, a luxury goods department in the commercial area of the museum enables tourists to satisfy their two principal reasons for being there, luxury shopping and culture.  

    The Louvre expects attendance numbers to rise by 30 percent over the next decade, forecasting some 12 million visitors by 2025. Le Printemps du Louvre estimates its revenues to top €20 million this year alone.

     A number of high-end watch brands including Chopard, Rolex, Montblanc, Hermes and Parmigiani are already present in the Carrousel du Louvre. With the 2014 edition of the Salon des Belles Montres set to take place in the same venue next November, the list is likely to grow.

  • Christie's - Record-Breaking Watch Auction in Geneve


    Christie's Geneva auction sale of Important Watches including A Gentleman's Pursuit for Excellence, Part I fetched a total result of SFr.27,042,825/$28,557,223/€22,445,545, selling 96% by lot and 97% by value.
    The exceptionally rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499/100, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1987 and offered from the collection of Eric Clapton, sold for SFr. 3,443,000 / $3,635,808 / €2,857,690, setting a world record price for this reference at auction.


    The top price of the sale was paid for the „J.B. Champion Platinum Observatory Chronometer, a unique platinum chronometer wristwatch, ref. 2458, which was specially manufactured by Patek Philippe for J.B. Champion, the legendary American watch collector, in 1952. This historically important timepiece realized SFr.3,779,000 / $3,990,624 / €3,136,570, setting a world auction record for a watch without complications.


    World record prices were also set for numerous references and models in the following categories: Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, antique and 20th century enamels, decorative watches and contemporary watches.
    Aurel Bacs, International Head of Christie's Watch Department, commented: "Christie's auction of Important Watches in Geneva performed extremely well, demonstrating great consistency at all levels in terms of watches, prices and clients. In a broad, healthy and ever growing market, where buyers demand expertise and scholarship, we offered once again the finest selection of watches and wristwatches. A packed saleroom, today's seven-hour marathon auction welcomed some 500 registrants from five continents, generating stellar sell-through rates as well as breaking numerous records. Collectors, public and private museums, the trade and also an investment watch fund, battled out the bidding for the best watches seen at auction this season, reconfirming Christie's market leadership in every horological category. This is our recipe: sourcing top quality properties, pricing them accurately, presenting them to the right audience, in the right place, at the right time".


    TOP LOT: J.B. CHAMPION PLATINUM OBSERVATORY CHRONOMETER
    The most valuable lot of the sale, an historically important and unique platinum chromometer wristwatch with Guillaume balance, Bulletin d'Observatoire, additional diamond-set dial and platinum bracelet, ref. 2458, made especially for J.B Champion by Patek Philippe in 1952, sold for SFr.3,779,000 / $3,990,624 / €3,136,570 (lot 88).
    ERIC CLAPTON'S PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 2499/100 IN PLATINUM
    Offered from the Collection of Eric Clapton, an exceptionally rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499/100, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1987, sold for SFr. 3,443,000 / $3,635,808 / €2,857,690 (lot 151). Only once previously sold at auction in 1989, it then changed hands for $250,999.
    A COLLECTION OF ANTIQUE POCKET WATCHES MADE FOR CHINESE MARKET
    100% sold by lot and by value, the sensational collection of antique watches, comprising the different styles made for the export to China, fetched a total result of SFr.2,303,500 / US$2,432,496 / €1,911,905, exceeding its pre-sale estimate by five times. The top lot of the collection was an exceptional gold and enamel openface centre seconds duplex watch with enamel by Jean-François-Victor Dupont, made for the Chinese market by William Ilbery, London, circa 1815 (lot 194), which sold for SFr.651,000 / US$687,456 / €540,330.
    The majority of the pieces offered for sale were acquired by the present owner and her late husband during their repeated journeys to the Orient between the late 1950s and the 1970s.
    A GENTLEMAN'S PURSUIT FOR EXCELLENCE, PART I
    Part I of A Gentleman's Pursuit For Excellence, a superb private collection of complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches and pocket watches, totalled SFr.1,332,000 / US$1,406,592 / €1,105,560. The top lot of the collection was a white gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 3448, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1974 (lot 316), which sold for SFr.387,000 / US$408,672 / €321,210.
    Part II will be offered at Christie's Geneva on 13 May 2013.

  • Collecting - Vintage Value Equation (3)


    WORLDTEMPUS - 16 August 2012

    Dials deserve special mention when talking about the originality of vintage watches because, in my opinion, an original dial comprises approximately half to three-quarters of the watch's overall value. For example, a vintage Rolex Daytona with a normal original dial is worth only half of the same watch with an original Paul Newman dial. A Rolex Submariner from the 1950s with its original unmodified dial is worth double the same watch with a later Rolex replacement dial. Naturally, very few such early watches survive to this day with original perfect-condition dials, but such pristine original dials exist. These perfect watches command a substantial price premium over watches with degraded, but otherwise original, dials. Degraded original dials command more value than OEM (original equipment maker) replacement dials.

    I mentioned last week how dials can be modified for aesthetic or functional reasons - known in the jargon as re-painted, as re-dialed, re-lumed, etc. - and dials that fall into this category have the least value. Fake dials, fairly prevalent on otherwise valuable original watches, have no value and are considered a serious demerit to the watch for obvious reasons. However, the other real parts of the watch have value, which is to be remembered for the serious collector who may have a collection of original parts accumulated over many years, which he or she can combine to form a watch comprising all original parts. So-called "put-together" watches are less than optimal because they are not original. As the years go by, however, and parts and/or entire watches get damaged, discarded or become otherwise unavailable, these spare original parts can result in a complete original watch that would otherwise be a broken or less-than-original watch. 


    It's not surprising that the dial is the most important part of the watch because the dial is how the wearer interacts with the watch. A compromise with the dial is a compromise in the enjoyment of the watch, and ultimately in its value.
    Cases and movements are also often less than completely original and, again, this can be for various reasons. Both are still critical factors in arriving at the value of a watch, however. Ideally, both the entirety of the case and movement will be original. Hopefully, the movement will have been serviced over the years and be running. If the movement needed or needs parts, OEM parts are preferred. However, the bottom line is that the watch is running. An original movement with some non-original parts is preferred to a broken movement that doesn't run. In more complicated watches, especially vintage Rolex Daytonas, the movements are sometimes not original. Vintage Daytonas were powered by Valjoux movements that were commonly found in other quality chronographs of the era. A vintage Daytona may have the Valjoux movement numbers 72B, 722, 722-1 or 727. Rolex made their own modifications to these movements and, of course, engraved the bridges. Given the value of vintage Daytonas, resourceful crooks have "put together" vintage Daytonas using real Valjoux movements from non-Rolex watches (without the Rolex modifications or with faked modifications), and a combination of other real or faked parts. Watch cases are not usually counterfeited, but you may find a Universal Geneve case masquerading as a Daytona case.


    One other point needs to be made about cases and movements: Rolex stocks replacement cases and replacement movements for watches received for servicing with irretrievably compromised parts. These cases often have a distinct serial number starting with the numeral 44. Likewise, the movement in a vintage watch may be a replacement movement if the original was rusted or somehow destroyed. Knowing which movements belong in which watch is a matter of experience and building an excellent resource library; so many part numbers can get confusing for anyone.
    The condition of the watch is the next most important variable in determining the watch's value, and sellers grade condition. Some sellers will use a number scale with 100 percent condition meaning the watch is as perfect as new. Other sellers use words like mint, mint+, near mint, excellent, etc. I like to believe most sellers make an honest attempt to describe their watches accurately. Not surprisingly, the seller often describes the condition of the watch more optimistically than the buyer will describe it once receiving it. So if you are buying a watch, make the guarded assumption that the seller's condition assessment is probably optimistic.
    Obviously, the better the condition of the watch, the more valuable it is. As such, there are some specific things to pay attention to and there are tradeoffs. Every collector has to decide what is most important to him or her in this regard.


    Specifically, when a watch case leaves a factory it is new, shiny and not diminished from being polished. Some collectors put a premium on a watch that has been polished so that its surfaces are clean enough to give the appearance of being like new. Other collectors prioritize originality over appearance. A watch case has a specific finish when it is new, and many watches have a combination of alternating finishes like mirror-polished, matte, sandblasted, or brushed surfaces. If a watch returns to its manufacturer for service, the watchmakers will restore the original finish, which is important. Using Rolex once again as an example, many Oyster cases are brushed on the top surfaces of the case, mirror-polished on the sides, and the case back is mirror-polished on its outer ring and brushed in the center. The center may be concentrically or laterally brushed. Send a watch to Rolex for service and it will come back looking perfect.
    However, careless watchmakers have ruined hundreds of thousands of watches by applying a mono-finish when working on a case. I have seen far too many fully mirror-polished Rolex cases and all brush-finished Panerai cases that should have been polished. Fortunately, this is reversible, but remember: each and every time a watch case is polished, metal is eroded and lost forever. Also, check the case for serial and model numbers and other engraving or printing that should be on the watch. All should be crisp and legible. Many cases have been polished to the point where original markings are either illegible or removed altogether. On precious metal watch cases, look to make sure that the metal's hallmarks are present. If you are looking at what appears to be a gold or platinum watch, the case should have hallmarks. Finding a crisp, deep hallmark means the case is both made of the metal it purports to be made from and has only been lightly or never polished.

    Related stories:

    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (1)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (2)

    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (4)

  • Richard Mille - The Art of Time


    WORLDTEMPUS - 22 June 2012


    "We're building our own case making facility," general manager Yves Mathys explains as we ask about the big cranes visible from the windows of Horometrie SA in the small Swiss village of Les Breuleux. This is the home of Richard Mille and the place where most of his extraordinary watches are assembled. Others are assembled down the road at Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi in Le Locle, and until recently many of Richard Mille's watch cases were made just across the street at case maker Donze-Baume.
    When Richemont took over Donze-Baume in 2008, Richard Mille was given a five-year grace period to find a new case maker. In the end, the little company decided to build its own case making factory, which will open the end of 2012, just a stone's throw from the present location. However, the knowhow required for the incredible RM 056 Felipe Massa Sapphire Tourbillon Split-Seconds Competition Chronograph introduced earlier this year at the S.I.H.H. in Geneva was something extraordinary. It, however, was made by a different supplier - and not actually a case maker.


    Luxurious sapphires
    The cases of the RM 056 are made by sapphire crystal manufacturing company Stettler Sapphire AG in Lyss. "We produce 80 percent of all sapphire crystals in the luxury watch business," head of sales and marketing Hans Studer explains when we pay the company a visit to get an intimate look at the process of making the transparent case of the RM 056. "Basically, we are the main supplier for watch companies producing watches costing 2,000 Swiss francs and more," he says while showing trays full of sapphire glasses made for brands such as MB&F (Maximilian Busser & Friends), Rado, Patek Philippe, and Rolex.


    Record-breaking sapphires
    Stettler made the 14.3-millimeter thick crystal fitted on the Rolex DeepSea Challenge that is water resistant to 12,000 meters. "We made a total of five crystals for the Sea-Dweller DeepSea Challenge model," Studer says, though he declined to reveal whether Rolex actually also produced five watches for the record-breaking dive of 10,898 meters made by film producer James Cameron in March 2012.
    Even if Stettler is used to tough assignments, the case of Richard Mille's RM 056 was something else. "For Stettler it was an incredible experience to develop this sapphire case," Studer continues. "Each of the three parts made of Kyropoulos sapphire takes weeks of finishing and we have a CNC machine dedicated only to the production of the RM 056 cases," he says showing the brand-new cutting machine that runs 24 hours a day in order to meet the demand of the five people who ordered the RM 056 during the fair in January. "The case back alone takes five weeks to finish, which means it will take a whole year to finish all five cases," Studer says matter-of-factly.


    Mutual invest
    Leaving the Stettler premises, I can't help thinking that one could have the impression that Richard Mille and his suppliers "R&D" each other, pushing the boundaries for modern watchmaking in an otherwise rather conservative business. The innovative and unconventional mind of Mille demands a lot from his suppliers and without their skills, machinery and ? last but hardly least ? flexibility, many of Mille's timepieces would never have made it onto the wrists of their owners today.
    Art of time
    After the visit to the Richard Mille boutique in Geneva, Horometrie and Stettler, it also occurs to me that in fact the ultra-light RM 027 adorning tennis player Rafael Nadal's winning wrist and its white counterpart, the RM 038 that sits on golfer Bubba Watson's wrist, are much more than just innovative timepieces. They are ticking pieces of art and would fit in just as well at Art Basel as they do at S.I.H.H. in Geneva.


    When you acknowledge this fact and consider Mille's watches as art you don't just buy one of his watches. You invest into his artistic and creative mind, just like you invest in a Warhol, Prince or other contemporary art that pleases not only the eyes, but also seem to justify the exuberant prices asked. And as an added bonus, Mille's watches show the time too.

  • Rolex - Date Just II


    The DATEJUST II continues the tradition of the DATEJUST, the emblematic model created by Rolex in 1945, the first self-winding waterproof wristwatch chronometer to display the date in a window on the dial. A reinterpretation of that symbol of the modern watch, the DATEJUST II inspires admiration with its impressive case and technical attributes.
    The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness
    The DATEJUST II's 41 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness. The characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosion-resistant 904L steel. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TWINLOCK double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a CYCLOPS lens at 3 o'clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case allies refinement with efficiency in protecting the DATEJUST II's high-precision movement.

    Calibre 3136, a superlative chronometer
    The DATEJUST II is equipped with calibre 3136, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3136 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The oscillator is fitted between high-performance PARAFLEX shock absorbers, patented by Rolex, which offer 50 per cent greater resistance to shocks.

    Comfort and elegance of the OYSTER bracelet
    This DATEJUST II model is fitted with a 904L steel OYSTER bracelet with a folding OYSTERCLASP. Developed and patented by Rolex, this elegant solid-link bracelet offers remarkable comfort and ease of use. It also features the ingenious EASYLINK rapid extension system that allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance.


  • Dubois & Depraz - At the Service of Brands


    Revue FH - 27 October 2011

    Nestled in the heart of the Joux Valley, the firm Dubois Depraz designs, develops and constructs additional movements for watch complications for some of the greatest names in watchmaking, including Patek Philippe, Breitling, Rolex, Omega, Richard Mille, etc. Be it chronographs with multiple indications (with or without perpetual calendar), special mechanisms indicating days, months, leap years, moon phases, sunset and sunrise, the equation of time, tides, timezones, jumping-dials, governors, mechanisms for regattas, watches for polo, as well as minute, quarter and five-minute repeaters, extra-flat mechanisms, etc, the world of complications no longer holds any secrets for Dubois Depraz. Around fifty brands currently employ the services of the firm, which is ready to rise to any challenge thrown down to it.


    110 years of history have led Dubois Depraz on the path to their present success. On 1st January 1901, Marcel Depraz set up his first watchmaking workshop in Le Lieu, at number 12, Grand-Rue, over the family baker's shop. Ten years later, with a view to increasing his firm's capacity, he teamed up with his brotherin- law Marius Guignard. Together, they set up a second company: Depraz & Guignard. Marcel's children, Gabrielle and Roger, also joined the family business. In 1937, Marcel Depraz decided to strengthen his two companies and employed his son-in-law Reynold Dubois. Results were not long in coming, with the rapid launch of the 13 3/4 chronograph calibre. This master stroke saw the production of more than 4.5 million movements up to the 1970s. In 1947, the two firms merged under the name Depraz & Cie. In 1956, Gerald Dubois, a young watchmaking engineer and father of the two present-day directors, set up a research and development design office.
    Eleven years later the world's first modular chronograph was born, the 11-12 Chronomatic calibre. This invention was awarded the diploma and silver medal at the Brussels Inventors Show in 1969. Meanwhile, Depraz & Cie changed its company name to Dubois Depraz SA.


    In the 1970s, despite the economic difficulties, the firm presented another world first, a mechanical chronograph with an analogue display featuring an electronic tuning-fork movement. In parallel, it diversified and embarked on the production of mechanical and quartz chronographs fitted as standard on aircraft and cars. Despite these launches, the crisis proved too b for the partnership between the two directors and in 1979 Gerald Dubois purchased the buildings and continued the adventure alone. In 1983, after several years of research, Dubois Depraz launched the calibre 2000 chronograph which could be adapted to all mechanical or quartz movements. This innovative concept caused a sensation in the watchmaking world and even today remains one of the firm's flagship products (around two million have been manufactured to date).
    In 1987, Jean-Philippe Dubois, the current CEO, joined the company. He was followed five years later by his brother Pascal, who was appointed as director. Finally, in 2006, they acquired one of their suppliers, DPRM (Decolletage pignons et roues manufacture), located in Arch (canton of Bern).


    In the course of these eleven decades, Dubois Depraz accumulated a huge wealth of expertise that was passed on from generation to generation. Even today the firm holds the secret of certain manufacturing phases no longer used by anyone else in the watchmaking world. An example is «tribofinishing», the process which consists in deburring and polishing pieces in a single operation. This involves turning pieces from one to seven days in sealed cylinders of different sizes, according to the desired end result. The media inside the rollers consist of different materials (copper, ceramic or plastic), special soap and polishing powder. Although the processes of deburring and polishing are widespread in the watch industry, Dubois Depraz's secret lies in the dosing of components and the length of the operation.


    Manufacturing secrets alone would be worth nothing without skill, hard work, and the precision and quality of products delivered by Dubois Depraz. Today, 220 people in the Joux Valley and 50 in Arch work industriously under the roof of this independent family business.

  • Book - Collecting Rolex GMT-Master



    After the great success of the first edition "Collecting Rolex GMT-MASTER wristwatches", now sold out, Mondani Editor has decided to publish a second version which also presents the models produced in recent years, in order to give the information which has become essential today for buying and selling GMT-Master watches and to improve the contents of the preceding edition.
     


    Some of the questions a collector asks himself nowadays are:
    - Are the aluminium bezel inserts of the ref. 6542 coeval?
    - Is there a way to know if the bezel has been replaced?
    - The ref. 1675 in stainless steel has been created with the possibility to fit two bezels: red/blue and black?
    Thanks to the in depth study, this edition helps to dispel these doubts.
     


    Only in this book will it be possible to find the first models of the 50's down to the most recent watches. Special attention has been paid to the variations of the bezels, dials and cases - factors which today help determine the value of the watch. "Collecting Rolex GMT-MASTER" is a specific volume about Rolex GMT - MASTER which includes timepieces from the first models of the 1950's to the ones of the last period, including prototypes, military models, bracelets and all case and dial variants.

    This edition also offers a widening of those references which have always been desired by enthusiasts and collectors, such as for example the refs. 6542, 1675, 16750 and many others.
     


    For each reference, a detailed sheet is reported, indicating the years of beginning and end of production, the calibre and all the characteristics of the watch (crystal, bezel, bracelet, case back, winding crown, case number with production year, dial, movement, ...).
    "Collecting Rolex GMT-MASTER Wristwatches" also offers a widening of those references which have always been objects of desire of enthusiasts and collectors, such as the refs. 6542, 1675, 16750 and many others.

    ORDER THIS BOOK
    BESTSELLERS AND SPECIALS OFFERS BY WATCHPRINT

  • Christie's - More than US - 26.3 million in Geneva

    - Christie's leads the international auction market for watches
    - Geneva's Important Watches including a Connoisseur's Vision Part IV achieves a blockbuster total of more than us$ 26.3 million, +25% versus may 2010 results.
    - New record price set for any rolex wristwatch at auction
    - $3.6 million Patek Philippe - new record price for any simple chronograph watch
    - More than a dozen record prices in one day
    - 1 lot sold above us$ 3.6 million
    - 3 lots sold above us$ 1 million
    - More than 800 registrants from all 5 continents

    TOP TEN RESULTS


    Reaffirming Christie's absolute leadership in the international watch area, Geneva's sale of Important Watches including A Connoisseur's Vision Part IV achieved a blockbuster total of US$ 26,331,962 (SFr. 23,427,013 / € 18,647,902), an increase of 25% over last May's auction total in Geneva.
    This is one of the highest results ever realized in the history of Christie's watch sales and leads the auction series dedicated to the category in Geneva this spring.
    The top watch of the sale is a unique 18k white gold cushion-shaped single button chronograph wristwatch manufactured in 1928 by Patek Philippe which sold for more than US$ 3.6 million, a new world action record for any simple chronograph watch.
    Among the other sensational new world record prices set at Christie's in Geneva is a new top price for any Rolex wristwatch at auction, achieved for an oversized stainless steel split seconds chronograph wristwatch manufactured in 1942, which sold for US$ 1,163,340.
    Aurel Bacs, International Head of Christie's Watch Department, commented:
    "The international community of watch collectors responded enthusiastically to this premium selection of rare wristwatches and pocket watches hand-selected by Christie's team of specialists for our spring Geneva sale. Our results confirm once again that Christie's is the auction house of choice for both buyers and sellers of the rarest and most important watches.
    Today's sale was characterized by b bidding from the international trade, but dominated by private collectors and museums around the world. Eight different buyers secured the top ten lots of the sale - a sign of the immense depth of interest in this category.
    The sale was notable for its spectacular moments - for the first time ever at auction, a Rolex watch surpassed the $1 million mark with the ultra-rare reference 4113 selling to a private collector for over $1.1 million.
    We were also touched by the spirited bidding that led to a b result for the Hillary Tenzing Explorer set, which soared above everyone's expectations to sell for US$ 104,532 with all proceeds directed to charity.
    Lastly, Christie's is extremely proud to announce that with Part IV of 'A Connoisseur's Vision', this prestigious collection of Patek Philippe watches reached the highest total ever for any collection of fine wristwatches ever dispersed at auction, reaching over US$ 22 million. We are grateful to the consignor for having entrusted Christie's team of watch specialists with the sale of this landmark collection and are immensely satisfied to see that the market rewarded his knowledge and passion to such an extent".
    Earlier in the sale, the G. Garvin Brown III Collection, Part I was 100% sold with most watches selling above high estimates. Two further installments of this exceptional collection will be offered as at Christie's Hong Kong sale of Important Watches on May 30 and at Christie's New York on June 15, 2011.

  • Rolex - Datejust Special Edition

    This bold incarnation of a feminine classic, in its 34 mm 18 ct EVEROSE gold case, enriches a collection already offered in yellow and white gold.

    Seductive charm of EVEROSE gold
    The 18 ct Everose gold of the case, bracelet and bezel sets the tone from the outset: an exclusive Rolex alloy, captivating in its inherent lustre and nobility. A mixture of serenity and vitality, sobriety and audacity, it exerts an irresistible power of seduction and gives the watch its b personality. Around the bezel sparkle 12 brilliant-cut diamonds, elegantly showcased in 18 ct white gold settings. The effect is luminous, exquisite, enchanting.

    Dream dials
    Dazzlingly delicate, the Goldust Dream dial is a subtle, refined marriage of white or black mother-of-pearl and gold dust. The mother-of-pearl is embellished with a new nature-inspired motif and an exquisite design in pink gold dust applied in a fine layer via a patented PVD process which preserves the mother-of-pearl's natural structure while giving it a highly original metallic sheen. The slightest ray of light illuminates this magical dial with iridescent reflections that make the fine strata of the mother-of-pearl shimmer in a subtle play of light. Each of these dials, with a large gem-set numeral at 6 o'clock, is a unique, refined work of art, striking in its delicate splendour.

    Distinction and precision
    The new Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition stands out thanks to its gracious, curved lines, its feminine form and its new, elegant invisible clasp. It is also an Oyster with peerless precision and reliability, a waterproof chronometer equipped with a Perpetual rotor self-winding mechanical movement. A trusted companion under all circumstances.

    The lady who wears this watch looks ahead, stepping confidently towards her future. She glances at her watch, living the present to the full, her sights already set on expanding horizons.

  • Book - Rolex Collector Starter

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  • Rolex - Winners of the Young Laureates Programme



    Some of the world's foremost scientists, explorers, environmentalists, doctors and educators will gather in Lausanne, Switzerland, in November to honour the first five winners of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise: Young Laureates Programme.
    The Young Laureates Programme seeks to foster a spirit of enterprise in the next generation by giving young people the financial support and recognition to tackle the challenges facing humanity with innovative projects.
    More than 600 leading figures from Switzerland and around the world are expected to attend the Awards ceremony on 11 November 2010 at the new Rolex Learning Center at the Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne (EPFL), one of Europe's leading science and technology universities.


    Polymath Brian Eno, the British record producer, composer, singer, multimedia artist and a noted technological innovator, will be the keynote speaker at the ceremony. Long concerned with the future of society and the global environment, he will talk about the relationship between science and the arts.
    The Young Laureates, all aged between 18 and 30, are: Jacob Colker from the United States, Reese Fernandez from the Philippines, Nnaemeka Ikegwuonu from Nigeria, Piyush Tewari from India and Bruktawit Tigabu from Ethiopia. Their projects range from transforming volunteering for the 21st century to enabling impoverished women to create eco-ethical fashion goods, from developing interactive radio in order to promote sustainable farming, to training volunteers to provide rapid care to road accident victims and developing TV programmes to improve children's health.
    "On the occasion of the Awards ceremony, Rolex is taking the opportunity to showcase both the winners and their visionary projects and to foster intellectual exchange between them and some of the best thinkers from Switzerland and abroad," said Rebecca Irvin, head of the Rolex Institute, the company's philanthropic and educational arm. "Our ultimate goal is to encourage an enterprising spirit among under-30s worldwide and to stimulate innovation in the region in order to help ensure a better future for the next generation."
    An inspiring programme
    To coincide with this celebration, from 9 to 11 November, Rolex and the EPFL are co-hosting a series of presentations encompassing the theme of innovation. All of these activities are designed to facilitate the exchange of ideas among the Young Laureates and international guests, including more than 40 former Rolex Awards Laureates and Jury members, as well as the 22 Young Laureate finalists and EPFL faculty members and students.
    As part of the interaction between the young Rolex entrepreneurs and the EPFL community, visits are being organized to two of the university's groundbreaking research labs: the Blue Brain Project, the first-ever attempt to reproduce fully a biologically accurate digital model of a mammal's brain in order to understand brain function and dysfunction; and the Global Health Institute, created to contribute to the understanding, prevention and treatment of infectious diseases. In addition, there will be presentations of the university's landmark research in areas such as health and diagnostics, and water and sustainability.
    "We are honoured to co-host the ceremony and to welcome the young innovators and other Rolex guests to our campus," said Adrienne Corboud Fumagalli, vice president of Innovation and Technology Transfer at EPFL and a member of the 2010 Young Laureates Jury. "The EPFL wants to stimulate entrepreneurship among students, and the Rolex Young Laureates Programme is a great match for us."
    Rolex Young Laureates Programme
    An expansion of the long-standing Rolex Awards for Enterprise, the Young Laureates Programme, launched in January 2009, honours men and women between the ages of 18 and 30 with inventive ideas to solve tomorrow's challenges in science and health, applied technology, exploration, the environment and cultural preservation. Each Young Laureate receives US$50,000 over the course of two years, giving the winners time to focus on their pioneering projects and move forward in implementing them. The Rolex Awards international network of innovators, comprised of former Laureates and Jury members, is available for guidance.


    The Young Laureates Programme complements the original Rolex Awards for Enterprise, which will be held again in 2012 and for which applications are already open (rolexawards.com).
    The five Young Laureates in the inaugural Rolex Awards for Enterprise: Young Laureates programme are:
    Jacob Colker, 26, United States - is changing the way people get involved in community service. His internet-based programme allows volunteers to use their smartphones to donate spare minutes to charitable and scientific organizations.
    Reese Fernandez, 25, Philippines - is committed to alleviating poverty by training people to become social entrepreneurs. Her Rags2Riches enterprise has already empowered hundreds of women to earn a living by turning scrap materials into elegant fashion accessories.
    Nnaemeka Ikegwuonu, 27, Nigeria - intends to boost the living standards of millions of Nigerian farmers through his interactive, mobile radio network. Hundreds of thousands of rural listeners are already receiving and exchanging information on sustainable farming practices and health issues.
    Piyush Tewari, 29, India - has set up a foundation to train a network of police officers and volunteers to respond quickly to road accidents and administer rapid medical care. By providing immediate assistance to victims, he hopes to stem the thousands of fatalities that occur on Indian roads each year.
    Bruktawit Tigabu, 28, Ethiopia - is building on the success of a television programme on health that she and her husband are producing for preschool children and their parents.

  • Arcadia - Rebirth of the Brand


    Swiss watchmaking has continued to reinvent itself throughout the centuries as Swiss craftsmen, inspired by their passion and love of tradition, strive to enhance their precision expertise.
    Maison Bunter, one of the leading specialists in major complications and jewel-setting, has been fired by such passion for some 155 years. Today Bunter is proud to present Arcadia: an innovative watchmaking concept that rises to the challenge of reviving one of the greatest emblems of Switzerland's watchmaking heritage.


    During the 19th century the Arcadia brand was the symbol of Swiss watchmaking excellence and the standard-bearer of the celebrated Fleurier Watch Company, whose creative approach would inspire generations of watchmakers. Now, after falling victim to the 'quartz revolution,' Arcadia, and its incredibly avant-garde models, are being reborn under Bunter President Claude Sanz - a passionate devotee of watchmaking history.
    This new adventure, imbued with unfettered imagination, offers a fresh approach to communicating the values of traditional Swiss watchmaking around the world.

    HISTORY
    1858 - 1970 : Arcadia

    In the early 19th century Swiss watchmaking - hitherto a craftsman's activity - enjoyed one of its earliest industrial booms.
    Thanks to Edouard Bovet, one of the first watchmakers to target the Far Eastern market, the number of watchmakers in Fleurier (a village in the Val-de-Travers near Neuchâtel) more than tripled inside 30 years.
    Jules-Samuel Jequier, who was born in the village in 1835, chose to devote his life to watchmaking from an early age. He joined Bovet in 1856 after training as a jewel-cutter and, thanks to his enthusiasm and entrepreneurial zest, rose swiftly through the firm's ranks.
    Later, helped by his five sons, Jules-Samuel Jequier founded the Fleurier Watch Company, a manufacturer devoted to jewel-cutting and designing watch calibres. The growth of the watchmaking industry would inspire the Jequiers to launch a number of different watchmaking brands.
    Among them: Arcadia.


    rcadia was founded in 1858 and became the flagship of the Fleurier Watch Company. The classically-inspired Fleurier brand enjoyed great renown among connoisseurs of quality watches, epitomized by names like Breitling and Rolex.
    Arcadia watches displayed amazing creativity for the time.
    This avant-garde brand produced some particularly stylish collections, typified by some of its early 20th century models - symbols of Swiss ancestral tradition imbued with modern, indeed contemporary, vision.
    But the arrival of quartz was to be the downfall for many Swiss watchmakers, who failed to realize the importance of the 1970s electronic revolution. Swiss mechanical watches were left behind by cheap, mass-produced, electronic watches from abroad. The resultant economic crisis lasted 15 years and threatened the entire sector, coming close to completely destroying traditional Swiss watchmaking.
    Many Swiss watchmaking firms were forced to close, taking with them the brands which had underpinned their success. Arcadia was no exception and, over a century after its launch by the Fleurier Watch Company, sank into oblivion.


    2010 : Rebirth of Arcadia

    Arcadia represents the crowning glory to an exceptional career and the fulfilment of a dream for a man to whom watchmaking is far more than a job. Claude Sanz cuts a unique figure in the watchmaking world: a trained geologist and mineralogist, as well as an expert in setting and mechanical complications.
    Nearly forty years ago Sanz acquired Bunter, a firm specializing in the cutting of industrial stones and rubies needed for watchmaking. Today, thanks to their mastery of invisible settings and de luxe, made-to-measure projects, Bunter are recognized by all the pre-eminent Swiss watchmaking firms.
    For Sanz, work is a passion: a passion for timepieces, for horological savoir-faire and for watchmaking history. It is also a dream... one he has secretly entertained for many years, to blend his skill and experience with the launch of a watchmaking brand that would write the final chapter of a story that began 35 years ago.
    "When you make watch components, you inevitably think about creating your own brand," says Sanz.
    But his ambition goes further. As a keen historian, he dreams of pursuing the mission of a Swiss watchmaking firm in the purest mechanical tradition - albeit one adapted to the contemporary era.
    In the 1990s Claude Sanz learnt about the incredible story of the Fleurier Watch Company and its star brand, Arcadia. He was fascinated by this forgotten watchmaking venture, and promptly decided to take over the Arcadia brand - which had fallen into the public domain - and revive its century-old traditions. "Arcadia calibres were highly innovative for the time, and the Fleurier Watch Company was considered an international ambassador of Swiss watchmaking," he explains. Today the industry is witnessing a return to small mechanical movements, so Arcadia is perfect for the 21st century! It's the start of a whole new adventure.
    The Arcadia renaissance is underway. With Bunter's structural and technical support, Claude Sanz has set about renovating each Arcadia calibre in the purest watchmaking tradition, inserting them into modern cases with sleek designs, made using the latest avant-garde technologies and materials.
    A combination of the richness of the past and the boldness of the future, Arcadia aims to showcase and perpetuate an exceptional, time-honoured, heritage on the international scene - and restore the prestige of a watchmaking symbol that was the pride of Switzerland for over a hundred years.


    AC01 : Transcending tradition
    With its modern, virile look, the first re-edition of the Arcadia collection strides confidently into the 21st century - while retaining the utmost respect for watchmaking's greatest traditions.


    This can be seen in the powerful design of this audaciously restyled retro model. While retaining its DNA - rounded shapes for the watch and displays within a tonneau case - the Arcadia AC01 has been entirely redesigned in line with today's technical codes. This new design approach is one of extremes: the watch combines harmonious volumes with aggressive elegance, with visible screws and push-pieces reworked to appear part of the case.
    The watch is made from such avant-garde materials as titanium (for the case), carbon (for the split-level dial), and anti-allergenic technological fibre (for the strap), married to watchmaking functions that evoke the awesome savoir-faire of the Fleurier Watch Company: the hour-and-minute display in the centre of the dial is surrounded by four skillfully juxtaposed sub-dials with original, extra functions (including chronograph, date and 24-hour time-zone index). The automatic movement, with 18-carat pink gold rotor, can be admired through a transparent case-back.
    Watchmaking tradition transcended! The watch is edited in a limited series of 275, and offered for sale with a revolutionary concept ideally suited to the era of new technologies: much in the manner of an iPhone or iPad, all data linked to the model (guarantee, aftersale service, orders for further timepieces) is entered on a USB key given to the owner and activated on-line at time of purchase.
    Another novelty: each Arcadia model comes with a travelling case in supple, ultra-resistant neoprene for easy transport and maximum protection.

  • Collecting - Personal Holy Grails, Part 2


    WORLDTEMPUS - 25 June 2010

    Despite the final statement of my last Chronicle, these connoisseur collectors all end up owning a Rolex again at some point. So if you are in the ascending stage of your collecting career and are tempted to branch out from your Rolexes and Omegas, hang onto at least one of your Rolexes…you'll want it back someday—I guarantee it. And it will probably be that Submariner that you once thought was uncool because everybody has one. It's with good reason everyone has one: it might just be THE watch to have if you can only have one watch.


    The first watch that I loved, but never owned, was the Revue Thommen Airspeed chronograph outfitted with the Lemania 5100 movement. I did pick up the Cricket with the copper-colored dial from Revue Thommen, which is an excellent and affordable alarm watch, but I have never owned the original Airspeed chronograph. Revue Thommen has been a manufacturer of industrial and airplane instrument gauges for more than 150 years. In the early to mid-1900s, the company discovered that its skill in making gauges transferred nicely to making military and pilot's watches, both of which required the same legibility and technical excellence that the company prided itself on in its airplane instruments. In fact, the crystal on the Airspeed chronographs is so clear that the watch looks like it has no crystal at all. The Airspeed chronograph is still offered, now outfitted with a Valjoux 7750 movement, and it looks much the same as the original model, which—not coincidentally—looks just like the clocks in many airplane cockpits.


    The Glycine Airman is a dual-time (actually displaying three time zones), 24-hour dial watch that became well known after many U.S. Air Force pilots returned home from Vietnam wearing one. I don't believe the watch was ever issued as a military watch, but the Airman offered a simple, intuitive dial and time interface that made tracking local, UTC, and a third time zone easy. Glycine has extended the Airman lineup considerably over the years, and, in fact, Glycine has evolved into having a most interesting and diverse model lineup—all while offering economic pricing and great quality. The Glycine Airman is a gap that I closed, having owned several of these historical watches over the years.

  • Rolex - Basel 2010


    WORLDTEMPUS - 20 March 2010
    It could have been an uneasy herd of impatient fans prior to a rock concert about to start for onlookers that did not have an interest in horology, but just happened to stroll by Hall 1 in Basel. However the impatient herds of bloggers, collectors and journalists did not wait for a big-ticket name in the music business to go on stage, but for a ditto in Swiss horology, Rolex, to reveal its novelties.
    Every year watch related websites start discussing what the leader of Swiss watch making might introduce of novelties once the doors open. Yet nobody knows for sure, since Rolex is as secretive with their novelties as their Oyster-cases are waterproof.

    This year, however, the introduction of a steel Submariner with maxi case and ceramic bezel insert was not much of a surprise. Such is the evolution of Rolex. Gold first, then steel/gold and now steel. The "aaaaahhhh" reaction did arise though, when the first impatient souls reached the mirror polished exhibition windows on Wednesday March 17th, when Baselworld opened its doors. The surprise reaction was due to a green dial and ditto ceramic bezel version of the Submariner of steel that paired up next to the black version at Rolex's impressive stand.


    Green may not be a colour embraced as joyfully by everyone as the Irish on St. Patrick's Day. This could be why Rolex decided to introduced a 39 millimetres version of what could easily be considered as one of the best looking models of all time, the legendary Explorer. A watch famed by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay's Mt. Everest exhibition in 1953. Both of them wore Rolex Oyster Perpetuals, creating yet another achievement for the Swiss watch company who used the world as a laboratory to test its watches under real conditions, since the young Mercedes Gleitze swam across the English Channel, wearing a Rolex Oyster, in 1927.


    The clean military look of the Explorer has not changed. But the new size of 39 millimetre - which is three millimetre bigger that the earlier version, ref. 114720 - is a perfect reason to rediscover a watch that has too long been considered too small for men and too masculine for women. This said, many women might just embrace this new size Explorer, as big watches are still popular on female wrists.

  • Rolex - Awards for Entreprise, New Young Laureates Programme

    Revue FH - February 26 2009 - N# 4


    Rolex has announced a new initiative to expand its international philanthropic programme to fund young pioneers and their groundbreaking projects around the world. In early 2010, the company will name the first five recipients of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise: Young Laureates Programme, honouring men and women between the ages of 18 and 30 with inventive ideas to solve tomorrow's challenges in science and health, applied technology, exploration, the environment and cultural preservation. Award recipients will each receive a US$50,000 cash prize to enable them to pursue an original project. Equally important, they will join the network of Rolex specialists and innovators who can offer invaluable expertise and guidance.
    The Young Laureates Programme is an expansion of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, which were established in 1976. The inaugural Rolex Awards commemorated the 50th anniversary of the Oyster chronometer, the world's first waterproof watch, and were created to encourage individuals ready to take on major challenges to benefit humankind and the environment. Since 1976, 110 Rolex Awards for Enterprise have been presented to Laureates and Associate Laureates from 40 countries, implementing projects in more than 60 countries. Recent winners include a social activist who has developed an affordable strategy to build housing for the rural poor using recycled materials in her native Paraguay (Elsa Zaldivar); a Scottish physicist who created a breakthrough method to predict volcanic eruptions via an unmanned helicopter (Andrew McGonigle); and a Jordanian chemist working to save the ancient archaeological site of Petra (Talal Akasheh).
    «Rolex has a history of supporting individual excellence and achievement,» said Rebecca Irvin, director of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise. «By providing project support at a critical juncture in the careers of young people, the Young Laureates Programme will reward bright new ideas and encourage the next generation to meet the challenges of the future.» Like the original Rolex Awards, the Young Laureates Programme will act as a springboard for men and women who use their creativity to improve life on the planet.
    «As our world becomes more interdependent and grows more complex, young people must bring new perspectives and fresh approaches to tackling our greatest challenges,» said Gilbert Grosvenor, Chairman of the National Geographic Society and a past jury member for the Rolex Awards for Enterprise. «Particularly in this era of global change and uncertainty, the Young Laureates Programme represents a vital investment in the brightest thinkers of tomorrow.»
    To find young people around the world determined to carry out projects with a significant impact, a range of institutions, organizations and individuals will be invited to nominate potential candidates. Those who accept the nomination will complete an application form that explains the scope, goals and feasibility of their projects. An independent jury will select five individuals with b potential to advance human knowledge and well-being.
    Each winner will receive the $50,000 prize over the course of two years. Funding of $25,000 each in the first year will give the Young Laureates the time to bring greater focus to their projects; the second instalment of $25,000 will propel the projects forward. Rolex may also provide additional support to the Young Laureates to pursue a related activity that will add further value to their work.
    The Young Laureates Programme complements the original Rolex Awards for Enterprise, it does not replace it. In 2010, five Young Laureates will be selected; in 2012, five Laureates and five Associate Laureates will again be chosen. The two variations of the programme will thus alternate every two years.
    Rolex's other global philanthropic programme, the Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative, also reflects an ongoing commitment to promoting excellence in the next generation. The Arts Initiative brings together emerging artists with re-cognized masters for a year of one-to-one collaboration in music, dance, literature, theatre, film and the visual arts.
    Both the Arts Initiative and the Young Laureates Programme provide the gift of time to exceptional young people at a key moment in their professional lives. Through Rolex's support, these promising individuals are able to take their work to a new level and contribute to their surrounding communities and the wider world.

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