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  • Watch auctions

    By now most of us are preparing for the summer break and finally find the time to think about and analyze the state of the market for fine and rare collectors watches. First of all, I can hardly remember an auction season that has been so eagerly anticipated as the series of sales that took place in Geneva this past May. Not only were there really amazing and uber-rare watches on offer (and also many not so good ones…) but for the first time there were four auction houses wanting a piece of the cake. Besides Antiquorum, Christie's and Sotheby's (in alphabetical order), Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo made its debut in the arena.

    Let me start with the good news first: in terms of participation, sell-through rates and results, it was one of the most successful and animated seasons ever, with over US $ 60 million of sales and a number of new all-time world-records established. Many insiders who carefully studied the catalogues expected such positive results but a large number of players also wondered if the market was hungry enough to absorb the large number of watches on offer. Also, some observers asked themselves if the absolute number of watches coming to the auction market every season wasn't too limited to properly fill four auction catalogues and hence diluted the quality of the sales.

    Then, late April, some two weeks before the Geneva auctions, my dear friend, well-informed market observer and Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer asked openly in an article "Is now the best time to buy a 2499, or the worst?", opening Pandora's box and prompting one of the most animated discussions, on-line and off-line, about the state of the market. Unusually, the four auction houses each offered a Patek Philippe reference 2499/100 for sale, the last generation of the venerable manufacturer's all-time legendary model. Would this be good or bad for the market? Were their enough bidders out there to bid, and to bid bly, on all four of the watches? Opinions varied, with some saying that this is the beginning of the end, while others suggested that it is always good to buy a 2499, regardless of the circumstances.

    With delight I can report that all four watches sold, and sold well above their estimates. Antiquorum sold their Tiffany-signed example for CHF 471,750 (estimated at CHF 300,000/500,000). Phillips achieved even more with the Beyer-retailed specimen fetching CHF 533,000 (against the same presale estimate). The next day Christie's achieved a highly appropriate CHF 650,000 (against an estimate of CHF 400,000/800,000) for their mint example and lastly Sotheby's sold their Gobbi-signed example for CHF 382,000 (against an estimate of CHF 200/400'000). Certainly, the four watches weren't identical in terms of condition and completeness but with an average price of over CHF 500,000, one should rather think of all time record levels than crisis! It shows that the appetite for fine and rare vintage watches is greater than ever before and the political turbulences around the world aren't stopping collectors from pursuing their passion. In fact, it is rather the contrary.

    Consequently, we have seen at all auctions the same pattern. The greatest pieces were fiercely fought over by the world's leading collectors and dealers while the average (and below-average…) quality struggled to reach the low estimate or even failed to sell. This may appear as bad news - but actually it isn't. As mentioned in my past articles, collectors around the world are very well informed and do their homework before bidding. Since the offerings at the four auction houses weren't at the same level of quality, we have seen mixed results. In terms of performance, we could observe sold-rates going from anywhere around 70% to close to 100%! Also, the different propositions meant that the sale totals and average lot values couldn't be more different: Ranging from less than CHF 7 million (Antiquorum) in global sales with an average lot value of less than CF 20'000 to Phillips with sale totals at some CHF 30 million, averaging at over CHF 140'000 per watch!

    The other good news is that we have seen beautiful results across the board, regardless of the maker, model, vintage or price level, showing it is no longer the classic "Federer-Nadal-Wimbledon-style final" between Patek Philippe and Rolex. Certainly, there were some results which stunned the market, be it the CHF 4.6 million paid for the spectacular stainless steel Patek Philippe single-button chronograph (Phillips) or the Audemars Piguet minute repeating wristwatch at Christie's fetching over CHF 600'000. The new world-record for any Rolex ever sold at auction, the ex Eric Clapton "Albino" Daytona selling for over CHF 1.3 million (Phillips) made headlines but the General MacArthur Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso at Antiquorum reaching CHF 87'500 was a memorable moment, too. The pattern is always the same: collectors are seeking quality, expressed by condition, rarity, originality, provenance and freshness to the market.

    Also antique (pocket-) watches enjoyed a solid performance with many notable results, demonstrating that we are not only looking at a phenomenon linked to wristwatches.

    Certainly, Rolex continues to be the hottest name in terms of audience, as demonstrated by the themed Glamorous Day-Date Auction staged by Phillips where an exceedingly rare example in platinum (Ref. 6612 from 1958) fetched CHF 473'000, setting a new absolute world-record for any Day-Date ever sold at auction. But when looking at the top-ten lists published by the auction houses, one can spot a number of other names, showing that the market is more varied and open-minded than ever before.

    So, we have all the good reasons to look forward to our summer holidays and expect an even more interesting fall auction season, as I expect all players (sellers, buyers, dealers and auction houses) will do their analysis and adapt their strategies to this 2015 reality - already understood by some, by others maybe soon.
     

  • Richard Mille - The many friends of Richard Mille

    When we arrive at the Polo Club Saint-Tropez, Pablo Mac Donough, casually clad in jeans and sneakers, greets us with Spanish-infused English. He confirms that there is nothing surprising about that, but also that things could just as well have gone the other way: until his grandfather's time, and as his name betrays, the Mac Donoughs were a completely Irish family whose members "only inter-married amongst themselves". For the past two generations, however, Argentinian blood has been mingled with these purebred Irish. And in Pablo, the family now has a new champion in the polo world.

    King of the media and close friends
    Richard Mille's ambassador strategy may be slightly bewildering, given a proven ability to establish a presence at the very top of disciplines that attract intense media coverage: sailing, golf, tennis, cars. It also however encompasses a number of lesser-known talents.
    Thus, in total contrast to ultra-publicised Rafael Nadal and his b development in the design of his "RMs", Pablo Mac Donough is completely unknown to the public and admits he "did not in any way take part in the development" of his RM 05. He even adds with a smile: "I am a polo player, not a watchmaker". At the opposite end of the spectrum to the slightly controversial role played by Natalie Portman, the least involved of the brand friends, one might well mention Michelle Yeoh, the wife of Jean Todt, who is also a company ambassador! Clearly an example of shared family tastes. Personal preferences thus remain the predominant factor in these choices, although the business side of things is clearly significant: Richard Mille invests 2.5 % of its turnover in its ambassadors, meaning around 4.5 million euros.

    A family affair
    Richard Mille remains bly driven by the automobile world, to which the brand is primarily committed, through associations with Sebastien Loeb, Jean Todt, the Princesses Prestige Rally, Le Mans, Lotus F1, Felipe Massa and Romain Grosjean to name but a few. This passion for mechanics is not so much fuelled by the brand as by the man, Richard Mille himself, who is car crazy. The company's ambassador model therefore relies on his personal friendships. Nevertheless, even as the brand has developed, Richard Mille has retained these essentially friendly ties with ambassadors.

    Since 2012, Pablo Mac Donough has also embodied this esprit de corps. "Richard and I met through a mutual friend who is also a very good Argentinian player" explains the champion. If that was the case, why did the relationship not develop with this friend rather than with Mac Donough?"."Because I am professional and he is amateur. For Richard, that was what made the difference."
    And for the Argentinian rider as well it would appear - because in his day, he was also widely sought-after, notably by Rolex with whom he still enjoys an excellent relationship, thanks to his wife who was an employee. One might well also imagine him being approached Jaeger-LeCoultre whose Reverso has embodied the polo spirit for 85 years. Fate however smiled on Richard Mille and the idea proved immediately worthwhile in that Mac Donough's season encompasses quarter-years divided between Dubai, England and Argentina - thus ensuring multiple representations at close quarters on these markets targeted by the brand.

    Mutual trust
    At the end of the day, discretion is a quality that Richard Mille shares with polo. "I am not as well- known as Rafael Nadal and polo is not as popular as tennis, but Richard Mille is also relatively less known than some brands. We understand each other. I like not being just a number in a big commercial machine" says Pablo Mac Donough.
    Under the rays of the setting sun over the Polo Club Saint-Tropez, one could almost forget to talk about his RM 053 Tourbillon. "Oh, there's not much to say," says Pablo Mac Donough. "In the very beginning, three years ago, I lost a watch hand. Richard's team put it back. Since then nothing has ever gone wrong and I wear it every day." That has to be the best possible 'customer testimonial… from a friend.

  • From Zenith to Rolex - The giant leap of Jean-Frederic Dufour

    Undoubtedly besieged by newsdesks from all over the world, the green giant with the crown thus decided to react with these two sentences sent to the media: "Rolex confirms the arrival of Jean-Frederic Dufour, current CEO of Zenith, to ROLEX SA to take over the direction at a date still to be determined, and in agreement with the company's standing CEO, Gian Riccardo Marini. All other communication will be released in due course."

    This is a big surprise in industry circles, since nobody expected Jean-Frederic Dufour to leave Zenith in the middle of its resurgence, nor Rolex to change managing director again so soon. Under the influence of the man from Geneva, Zenith had once again started to experience b growth. One of the symbols of this new direction was Zenith's sponsorship in 2012 of the fastest man in the world, Felix Baumgartner, the famous adventurer who broke the speed of sound in freefall from a capsule on the edge of space at an altitude of 39,000 metres.

    After the stars of Zenith, the loyal captain of Jean-Claude Biver (the boss of LVMH's watchmaking activities) now sets sail for the crown of Rolex. A yachtsman in his free time, he will undoubtedly be looking forward to attending a few stops on the Rolex circuit, since this brand is one of the most heavily involved in sailing with events on all oceans from January through to December.

    In what is either a coincidence in career paths or a genuine acknowledgement of the "Chopard school", Jean-Frederic Dufour will be bumping into his former colleague from Chopard, Philippe Peverelli, once again in the corridors, since he heads up Tudor, the other brand in the Rolex group. From Le Locle to Geneva is a small step for a commuter but from Zenith to Rolex is a giant leap for its boss.
     

  • Collecting - Vintage Value Equation (1)


    WORLDTEMPUS - 2 August 2012

    Every vintage watch is different. Accordingly, a collector determining the value of each vintage wristwatch comes down to putting values into an equation. And, ultimately, each watch has its own value equation. Knowing how to quantify and calculate the variables in the equation is equal parts experience, education, astuteness, and power of observation. While there is no substitute for experience, there are resources that can speed up the learning curve: an expansive collector's library, bookmarking the best websites, and - frankly - buying and selling as many wristwatches as you can responsibly afford.
    As I explained to my wife many years ago (I don't think she believed me, but it's true), "Every time I buy and own a watch, I learn about the watch and learn from the transaction." Don't underestimate the learning also garnered when a watch is sold. You quickly learn which brands and models are the best to collect (which also equates to investing in), and which watches are better left to looking at pictures of.
     
    The first order of magnitude, in establishing the value of a vintage watch is authenticity. While a counterfeit watch has value in the sense that it may (or may not) keep time and may look nice, we are talking pennies on the dollar (and sometimes much less) in terms of comparing the value of a counterfeit watch to its authentic counterpart. Our starting presumption and the first step in the evaluation of any wristwatch must be: is this watch authentic?


    For the beginning collector, this is easier said than done. If you are going to be buying most of your watches from an established watch dealer, you can piggy-back on his or her experience and trust that you are purchasing authentic watches. Any dealer worth doing business with will guarantee the authenticity of any and all watches and will put that pledge in writing and offer a lifetime money-back guarantee should a watch turn out to be less than 100 percent authentic. Buying from established dealers allows you to safely spend your money and learn from each watch that you buy. Obviously, the dealer works on a profit, and buying from him or her may mean you are paying more than if you venture out into the wild by yourself. However, in my opinion, the extra layers of protection are worth the premium.
    This is where spending big on a watch library before you start spending big on watches will really pay off. There are numerous watch books available, all of which are illustrated with pictures. From coffee table books, magazines and watch annuals to auction catalogs and collector's value guides, each and every book will advance your education. Many of the Italian collector's books are excellent (and expensive, but worth every penny). There are Japanese books and magazines usually focused on Rolex watches that feature amazingly in-depth picture series on the various models and their iterations over time. The Antiquorum auction house offers many, also available on Amazon and eBay. Unfortunately, many of the best books are now out of print. However, my advice is to spend liberally on books. Even after you are an experienced collector, you will find yourself referring again and again to your library. I know I do, every day.


    Democratization of information is the essence of the Internet. There is no limit to the amount of learning one can achieve online. Antiquorum's online database of auction results is an educational goldmine. You can study the pictures of watches - each picture can be clicked on to open up a high definition image - and find out both what the experts on staff predicted the value of each watch would be at auction and what the watch actually sold for. Studying these results over time, one can learn which models do best in terms of value and which characteristics most closely correlate with a watch's value. Timezone is a great resource to spend days immersed in learning and DoubleRedSeaDweller is a magnificent website for Rolex Submariners and SeaDwellers. You should explore all that the Internet has to offer in terms of watch knowledge.
    However, there is simply no substitute for experience. You should strive to see as many watches as possible "in the metal." Holding watches in your hands, studying them under a loupe, feeling their weight, winding them, playing with their crowns and chronograph buttons, putting them on your wrist, and noticing every last detail is the surest way to know immediately if a watch is authentic and if it is not.

    Related stories:

    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (2)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (3)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (4)

  • Obituary - Passing of Patrick Heiniger

    WORLDTEMPUS - 6 march 2013

    Patrick Heiniger marked the history of the company throughout the 16 years he presided over its destiny, from 1992 to 2008.
    M.Heiniger was appointed Managing Director of Rolex in 1992, six years after he joined as Commercial Director. He was also named Chief Executive Officer in 1997. As the company's third Managing Director since it was founded, he followed his father, Andre J. Heiniger, who in 1963 had succeeded Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex.


    Born in Argentina in 1950, Patrick Heiniger was a lawyer by training, specializing in international and intellectual property law. He made it his mission to reinforce the protection of the brand throughout the world.
    Under his impetus, in the mid-1990s Rolex made a fundamental strategic choice and opted for the vertical integration of its means of production. This strategy was intended to guarantee control over manufacturing of the essential components of the brand's watches and thus to ensure its autonomy.
    As a true independent watchmaker of the 21st century, enjoying unprecedented freedom in the design and manufacture of its watches, Rolex could take its ambition for excellence and innovation to new heights.
    In 2002, Patrick Heiniger created the Rolex Mentor and Protege Arts Initiative, dedicated to helping promising young artists realize their full potential under the watchful eye of a renowned mentor in their discipline.
    That same year, he was awarded the insignia of Chevalier of the National Order of the Legion of Honour and, in 2005, he was appointed Commander of the Order of Arts and Letters.
    Patrick Heiniger retired from the helm of Rolex in December 2008.
    Worldtempus would like to express its deepest sympathy to Patrick Heiniger's family and Rolex teams.

  • Richard Mille - A Family of Champions

    Some will say that if you rub greatness, there's a good chance it becomes contagious. Richard Mille doesn't really need that kind of help from the champions he endorses - he's got the Midas touch himself. And a highly touted collection of watches to prove it, many of them named for one of the most impressive group of sports personalities ever to be associated with a watch brand not named Rolex. Rolex has never quite had timepieces this highly complicated or with tailor-made features suited to the specific sporting activities of its ambassadors. Richard Mille does, through, for its very interesting and creative partnerships. And several of the new watches unveiled at the SIHH 2013 underscore this yet again.

    On top of it, Richard Mille's gang has an unprecedented eclectic flavor. Why such an obsession for champions? "I've always considered a bit sad that high watchmaking was some sort of a ghetto and that it should be more open to sports, to lifestyle, to the arts. And I'm interested in working with champions because I'm not afraid to put my watches in danger. Usually, the traditional contact between watchmaking and sports is through photography; with me, it's different: all the champions I work with wear their timepieces in their respective fields and we're forced to have an extraordinary level of resistance and quality in our watches. Every champion's timepiece is an extreme watch for extreme conditions." There's a new one being developed right now for Sebastien Loeb, the exceptional French driver with a record nine World Championship Rally titles under his belt. Loeb has been associated with small and affordable brand Marvin over the past few years.

    b watches, not Armb

    Is there a specific star Richard Mille would like to have under his umbrella? "I'm sure there are a lot of champions I'd like to work with. Basketball players, for instance, but they're not allowed to wear a timepiece in official play. With rugby players it's the same. Unfortunately!" Richard Mille can't even name one favorite champion out of his own group: "I'm not being politically correct when I say that I love them all. I really do. Plus, I have a great relationship with each one of them. For instance, I've got a great friendship with Roberto Mancini, who's been here at the fair. The same with Rafael Nadal, Felipe Massa…each one of them. What is important to me is that they have great personalities. They are humble, really professional, true gentlemen. And I love to work with them for as much time as possible. Take my friend Massa, who's had his highs and lows and now is coming back. And such is life."

    Is it a dream team? "I'd say it is, because it isn't just the performance that interests me, it's also the personality. For instance, with Roberto Mancini we developed a watch related to football. And that's what I really like: to develop a new product with them. I love working with intelligent, subtle, interesting people. It's not just the performance - and that's why I'd say mine actually really is a dream team, because they form a group of such great personalities." There's one suggested star that won't make the Richard Mille family, though: the worlds' best-known cyclist, Lance Armb. "I don't think so, no. Ha ha."

    More "technorological" creations

    Richard Mille has created one or more exclusive series of timepieces for golfer Bubba Watson, polo player Pablo MacDonough, tennis champion Rafael Nadal, Formula 1 driver Felipe Massa and track & field sprinter Yohan Blake. At the SIHH, five of the seven new timepieces introduced were related to sports personalities, including two associated with FIA supremo Jean Todt. A sixth one, bearing the Sebastien Loeb signature, is on its way. Here are the new products.

    Automatic Flyback Chronograph RM 11-01 Roberto Mancini

    Roberto Mancini, formerly a champion on the pitch and now champion of the Premier League as the Manchester City manager, helped create the original RM 11-01, an automatic flyback chronograph with annual calendar, central minute counter and a dial divided into periods of play conceived to assist a coach not only during matches but also during extra time. The dial displays match time on the basis of two 45-minute halves and up to 15 minutes of stoppage time. Pressing the pusher at 4 o'clock once actuates the flyback function and repositions the hand at 12 o'clock, ready to start the second half. If extra time is awarded, the flyback function can be reactivated to show the 15 minutes of extra match time and up to 5 minutes of stoppage time.

    Tourbillon RM 27-01 Rafael Nadal watch

    It weighs one gram less (!!!) than the previous ultra-light, 20-gram RM 027 that Rafael Nadal started using in his greatest season (2010). The third timepiece resulting from the partnership between Richard Mille and the Spanish tennis champion will be used by Rafa himself when he comes back to the ATP World Tour next February after an eight month absence. It boasts a tourbillon capable of sustaining Nadal's incredible arm accelerations (more than 5,000Gs) during the course of a tennis match and the architecture of the movement, suspended in the heart of the case, is a marvel in itself. The RM 27-01 is available in carbon nanotubes and on a Velcro strap in a limited run of 50 timepieces. The other Rafael Nadal timepiece by Richard Mille is the Chronofiable-certified RM 035.

    Tourbillon RM 59-01 Yohan Blake

    The multiple medalist and Jamaican sprinter has been wearing a tourbillon prototype on his wrist, which provides a real-life testing ground enabling Richard Mille's engineers to define the specifications of a watch specifically designed for athletics. Yohan Blake worked with Richard Mille to develop a special caliber designed for sprinters the world over and the mission was accomplished with the funky RM 59-01 tourbillon watch, featuring dynamic bridges that span the movement and evoke the claws of the "The Beast" (Yohan Blake's nickname). Machined from anticorodal aluminum Pb109 and anodized (through anodic oxidation), it is hand-painted in green and yellow, two colors that also appear on the aluminum flange in tribute to the Jamaican flag. Limited to 50 timepieces.

    Tourbillon RM 58-01 World Timer Jean Todt Limited Edition

    It wasn't until the 20th century that the time zones we have come to know were implemented uniformly and adopted unanimously around the globe. Jean Todt, President of FIA, is a man constantly moving through time zones. The RM 58-01 Tourbillon is a user-friendly timepiece dedicated to constant travelers. The tourbillon, positioned at 9 o'clock and oscillating at a frequency of 3Hz, is accommodated in a four-part case made from titanium and red gold. The shot-blasted, satin-brushed and polished rotating bezel bears the names of 24 world cities on its brown upper flange. In contrast to other time zone watches, the RM 58-01 does not need any adjusting push-piece to change from one time zone to another. The time is set by simply rotating the bezel anticlockwise. Profits from the sale of this 35-piece limited edition will be transferred to initiatives close to Todt's heart: the Global Campaign for Road Safety and the ICM Brain & Spine Institute.

    Tourbillon G-Sensor RM 036 Jean Todt Limited Edition

    Already introduced as a pre-SIHH product a few months ago, the RM 036 features the emblematic curved and ergonomic Richard Mille cushion-shaped case specifically requested by Jean Todt for a timepiece housing a tourbillon movement made entirely of grade-5 titanium and ARCAP, with a carbon-nanofiber base plate. The cocktail of futuristic materials provides the movement with optimal resistance and flatness, offering at the same time an appealing contrast with the finishing. It also boasts a brand-new complication: a mechanical G-sensor, developed and patented by Renaud et Papi exclusively for Richard Mille, which translates the movement of a small internal mechanism to an indicator, thereby enabling the wearer to visualize the number of Gs accumulated by the wearer during rapid decelerations. The scale located at 12 o'clock has a needle indicating whether the deceleration is safe (green zone) or critical (red zone) for the driver. Limited to 15 titanium pieces, profits will be donated to the global campaign for road safety and the ICM Brain & Spine Institute.

    Tourbillon RM 56-01 Sapphire Crystal

    When it was unveiled at the 2012 SIHH, the RM 056 Split-Seconds Competition Chronograph Sapphire bearing the name of Formula 1 driver Felipe Massa caused a stir with its case made entirely of sapphire crystal. Following such a technical feat and determined to continue challenging the very limits of fine watchmaking, Richard Mille created another "transparent" masterpiece for 2013: the RM 56-01 Sapphire Crystal. The quest for extreme transparency at the heart of a titanium movement led the engineers to use sapphire crystal for the central bridge and third wheel. Caliber RM 56-01, made from sapphire crystal and titanium, is immune to temperature variations and wear. Collaboration with Biwi SA made it possible to develop Aerospace nano, employing nanotechnology to obtain unequalled transparency and strength for a revolutionary strap. Because the machining of sapphire crystal is an extremely difficult process, the RM 56-01 is only available in a very limited edition of five timepieces.

    The Tourbillon RM 039 Aviation E6-B Flyback Chronograph watch

    Not quite related to any traditional sport or athlete, the RM 039 Aviation E6-B pilot's watch is the other brand-new product for 2013 and displays practically all the information provided by the famous E6-B slide rule. Incorporated into the bidirectionally rotating bezel, it can be used to read off and calculate fuel burn, flight times, ground speed and wind correction, and to quickly convert units of measurement (Naut/KM/Gallons/ Liters/Feet/KG/LBS). Another special characteristic of the RM 039 that distinguishes it from other pilot's watches is that it enables density altitude to be calculated using a movable indicator incorporated into the case band at 2 o'clock: an original function brought to watchmaking for the very first time. The Tourbillon RM 039 Aviation E6-B is a highly technical instrument that embodies the bridge between watchmaking and aeronautics. Limited edition of 30 timepieces in titanium.

  • Rolex - Rolex Awards for Enterprise


    Revue FH - 5 July 2012


    The 2012 Rolex Awards for Enterprise aroused keen interest. Indeed around 3,500 names were put forward - more than double that of recent editions - originating from 154 different countries (126 at the last edition). The average age of participants was down from 46 to 41. The percentage of women meanwhile rose from 23 to 28%, a record high.
    Members of the interdisciplinary jury, which included renowned scientists, explorers, environmental campaigners, doctors, educationalists and entrepreneurs, made their selection as follows:
    Sergei Bereznuk (51), Russia


    The Russian Far East is home to 95 per cent of the remaining population of the Amur, the biggest of the world's tigers (also known as the Siberian tiger), which weighs on average 200 kg. Today, an estimated 350 to 500 of this subspecies (Panthera tigris altaica) roam the frontier region bordering China and the Sea of Japan. Although sustained conservation efforts over recent years have moved the Amur tigers from «critically endangered» to «endangered» on the International Union for Conservation of Nature's Red List, they still remain at risk - mainly due to poaching.
    For the past 17 years, Sergei Bereznuk, a staunch Russian conservationist and ecologist, has been working valiantly to save the Amur tiger. Based on his experience since 1995 with a tiger anti-poaching brigade in the Primorsky Krai, the Russian Far East province commonly known as Primorye, Bereznuk is convinced that saving the Amur tiger depends on both the efficiency of anti-poaching measures and the education of the local people, two elements at the core of his Rolex Awardwinning project. Moreover, he considers the Amur tiger as a powerful driver for the general conservation of its ecosystem, the taiga forest.


    As director of the Phoenix Fund, a small, environmental NGO that he has headed for 12 years, Bereznuk and his team of six people are carrying out an impressive range of activities to preserve the Amur tiger over a territory of 166,000 km2. These include support of anti-poaching units, awareness-raising among local people, reversing habitat reduction due to fires and logging and resolution of humananimal conflicts, along with providing compensation for damage and monitoring invasive industrial projects in the region.
    Barbara Block (54), United States


    Large marine predators such as sharks and tunas are essential to maintaining the delicate balance of our ocean ecosystems, but overfishing, habitat destruction and pollution have caused reductions of populations worldwide. Measures advocated by scientists to reverse this decline include the creation of large marine protected areas in the open ocean that preserve feeding and breeding grounds. A major challenge has been to identify the best locations for these sanctuaries, since these species are highly migratory and difficult to follow.
    Barbara Block, a professor of marine biology, has developed innovative electronic tagging techniques that enable following fish beneath the sea. In the late 1990s, she helped develop the first pop-up satellite archival tag, a device that detaches itself from the fish on a pre-programmed date and floats to the surface of the sea where it transmits archived data via satellite.
    Block's aim is to build the technology that will enable monitoring of these ocean hotspots and to engage the public on the plight of marine predators that roam along the west coast of North America - a crucial prelude to their conservation.
    Her team conducts «conservation oceanography» incorporating the latest advances in sensor technology, ocean observing systems and computational methods to provide resource managers and policy-makers with data on the sustainability of both exploited and protected marine predators.
    Erika Cuellard (40), Bolivia


    The largest of Bolivia's national parks, the Kaa-Iya del Gran Chaco, boasts the unlikely combination of South America's hottest, driest weather and 70 species of large mammals, including jaguars, pumas and giant armadillos, living in the largest protected tropical dry forest in the world. This harsh and inhospitable environment has been the workplace of Erika Cuellar for more than a decade. The scientist has spearheaded participatory conservation with the indigenous Guaraní people who live on the boundaries of the park. She has worked towards improving grassland management and local capacity building by training local people to take ownership of the conservation of their habitat.
    Encouraged by her successes in the national park, Cuellar's sights are now set on the wider Gran Chaco region, which spans parts of Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. The Gran Chaco counts a variety of indigenous tribes, nomadic hunters, gatherers, fishing communities, farmers and cattle ranchers as its human inhabitants. The forests and scrublands are also home to 3,400 plant species, 500 bird and 150 mammal species, many of which are unique to the region.
    But for more than a century, the Gran Chaco's natural wealth has been systematically eroded. A notable casualty of these man-made factors has been the guanaco, the wild ancestor of domesticated llamas. In 2007, to help protect this species and its habitat, Cuellar devised a course to train members of three ethnic groups native to the Gran Chaco (Guaraní, Ayoreode and Chiquitano) as parabiologists. As native inhabitants, parabiologists are also an influential means of conveying the value of conservation to indigenous communities. Cuellar now wants to extend her approach in Argentina and Paraguay and formalize the model to make conservation a viable long-term local employment option.
    Mark Kendall (40), Australia


    Mark Kendall is developing an inexpensive and highly efficient way to reduce the annual death toll of millions of people worldwide from infectious diseases. Many of these fatalities can be prevented by vaccines, but the traditional syringe-and needle method - invented in 1853 - is holding vaccines back. First, this method injects vaccine into muscle, which has few immune cells, missing our immune «sweet spot». It is expensive and presents numerous difficulties - with vaccines requiring refrigeration in many countries where electricity supplies are uncertain.
    With the «Nanopatch» that Professor Kendall is developing at a cutting-edge bio-engineering research institute at the University of Queensland, in Australia, a host of problems linked to the traditional needle and syringe will be swept away. The syringe-free method developed by Kendall uses an applicator which propels the Nanopatch and its microprojections - painlessly - onto a superficial layer of the skin where target immune cells are most numerous. The process does not draw blood, so the risk of infection is greatly reduced.
    The Nanopatch is coated with dry vaccine, so no refrigeration is required. This, together with lower vaccine doses, drastically reduces all costs, including transport. In the long term, Nanopatches could probably be administered by community workers or teachers, thus avoiding the need for medical staff to be present.
    Aggrey Otieno (34), Kenya


    Korogocho, Nairobi's fourth-largest slum, is home to an estimated 200,000 people in an area of only 1.5 km2, which is troubled by widespread insecurity, substandard sanitation and deep poverty. An estimated 300 women experience postpartum haemorrhage and 200 newborn babies die there every year due to the lack of obstetric medical facilities and a means of getting to hospital, as well as the fact that the local birth attendants need assistance during emergencies. In Korogocho, the maternal mortality ratio is roughly 700 women out of 100,000, compared with 13 out of 100,000 in the United States.
    After studying in the United States, Aggrey Otieno returned to the slum, his birthplace, to improve the health of his community by empowering its people. With his knowledge of the area, Otieno, who has gained a well-deserved reputation as a valiant champion of the poor and vulnerable residents of Korogocho, is well placed to drive forward his project to build a telemedicine centre with a 24- hour, on-call doctor and van, thereby helping to prevent many deaths.
    Under the auspices of the non-profit organization Pambazuko Mashinani - of which he is founder and executive director - Otieno will use his Rolex Award funds to train birth attendants to recognize when complications are occurring so that they can alert staff at the centre by text message when an emergency arises. These qualified workers and doctors will give instant medical advice and, if needed, dispatch a van to transport the woman to hospital.

  • Sotheby's - Thomas Perazzi New Deputy Director


    Thomas Perazzi joins Sotheby's from his position as specialist at an auction house specialising in horology. Mr. Perazzi began his career in the industry in 2006, further developing his b interest in Omega and Rolex watches as well as vintage wristwatches made between 1940 and 1970. Mr. Perazzi will strengthen Sotheby's existing team in Europe with his solid expertise and b relations to Italy, a key centre in the watch auction market in Europe.
    Commenting on Thomas Perazzi's appointment, Marc Michel-Amadry, Managing Director, Sotheby's Switzerland said: "I am delighted to announce the appointment of Thomas Perrazi as Deputy Director of Sotheby's European Watch Department. Thomas brings to Sotheby's outstanding expertise as well as a thorough understanding of the auction business and the Italian market. His appointment will enhance the company's ability to ensure the best service to watch collectors".
    Geoffroy Ader, Head of Watches, Sotheby's Europe, added: "Through his deep knowledge of the vintage and modern wristwatches, Thomas Perazzi will reinforce our existing team in Europe" .
    Another b addition to Sotheby's global watch team, Charles Tearle, appointed Director, Head of Watches, Asia, will be based in Hong Kong, working closely with Tim Bourne, Worldwide Head of Watches, as well as an international team of specialists, in driving Sotheby's business in auctions and private sales of watches in Asia.
    Together, Mr. Tearle and Mr. Perazzi will further strengthen Sotheby's watch business worldwide by working closely with the international team of watch specialists, reporting to Tim Bourne, Worldwide Head of Watches.

  • Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Submariner

    The archetype of the diver's watch, the Oyster Perpetual SUBMARINER presented at Baselworld 2012 sports a new look to complement its iconic personality. with its subtly redesigned case and its new bezel and bracelet both benefitting from recent Rolex innovations, this latest generation SUBMARINER is firmly in line with the tradition of the historic model launched in 1953. It sets new standards in terms of robustness, legibility and reliability, strengthening its status as a watch of action with timeless allure.

    Ceramic bezel and long-lasting luminescent display 

    The unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel of this new SUBMARINER is equipped with a black CERACHROM insert made of virtually scratchproof, non-fading, corrosion-resistant ceramic. The graduations are coated via a PVd process with a thin layer of platinum. The sleek black dial harbours large CHROMALIGHT hour markers and hands filled with luminescent material that emits a long-lasting blue glow. This exclusive display offers exceptional legibility in the dark. 

    The OYSTER case, symbol of waterproofness 

    The SUBMARINER's 40 mm OYSTER case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 300 metres (1,000 feet), is a paragon of robustness. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosion-resistant 904L steel. The fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool exclusive to Rolex watchmakers. The winding crown, fitted with the patented TRIPLOCK triple waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case in a manner akin to a submarine's hatch. It is protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof synthetic sapphire. The waterproof OYSTER case ensures optimal protection for the SUBMARINER's high-precision movement.

    Calibre 3130, a superlative chronometer 

    The new SUBMARINER is equipped with calibre 3130, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Like all PERPETUAL movements, the 3130 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. Its architecture, like that of all OYSTER watch movements, makes it singularly precise and reliable. The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue PARACHROM hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the PARACHROM hairspring offers great stability when exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. 

    The OYSTERLOCK clasp, functional and secure 

    This SUBMARINER is fitted with a solid-link OYSTER bracelet in 904L steel. It features a new-generation OYSTERLOCK safety clasp and GLIdELOCK extension system. The ingenious patented system, located beneath the clasp cover, allows fine adjustments of the bracelet length in 2 mm increments for a total of approximately 20 mm - without using any tools. This allows the watch to be worn over a diving suit up to 3 mm thick and provides additional comfort in any circumstance.

  • Success - Instinct vs strategy

    GMT Italia - Summer 2011

    Amongst the teams competing in the great watchmaking championships, two "dream teams" draw particular attention to themselves. One of them, led by Jean-Claude Biver, is stabled with the LMVH group. The other, under the watchful eye of Georges Kern, is to be found at the heart of the Richemont group.
    Both run a brand, while

    inspiring others, either directly or indirectly. Both are surrounded by a new generation of promising managers, such as Jean-Frederic Dufour at LMVH, or Alain Zimmermann at Richemont. Both implement their marketing strategies with unfailing efficiency. In both cases, obviously, we are talking about watchmaking, but also (above all?) about business.

    At LMVH, annual sales in the watchmaking and jewellery sector added up to close on a billion euro on December 31 last year, showing an almost insolent 29% increase. At Richemont, it took only six months to pass the 900 million euro mark with the watchmaking division alone. Here also, growth was nothing short of incredible: +38% for the semester April to September 2010! Both these captains of industry face huge pressure, stiff competition - including internally - and similar challenges: conquering new markets, managing the supply chain and distribution network, ensuring growth and coherence with the brand values. Even though the demands - and successes - are similar, their style is completely different. There is Jean-Claude Biver's spontaneous, creative marketing. This man shows off his brand, Hublot, in the most unexpected places, maximising opportunities at major events. He is able to evaluate an event and make a decision in just a few minutes, moving onto turf already occupied by his competitors. We saw him flirt with Alinghi before taking over its sponsorship from Audemars Piguet. We saw him on the illuminated referee boards at the last World Cup, as well as lighting up the Vendôme column standing at the heart of the most prestigious location in Paris - and incidentally right in the middle of the logo of Van Cleef & Arpels, a watchmaking colleague and competitor. His brand is to be found on skis, bicycles and even... cheese wheels!

    Georges Kern on the other hand, practises business school marketing with unfailing rigour. In his realm, creativity is not paramount, but is channelled and used as part of a long-term strategy. Be it IWC, Baume & Mercier or Roger Dubois, the markets are fragmented, with products distributed on a value pyramid and innovations selected depending on gaps that need to be filled, building the worlds of reference frameworks that accompany each brand down to the last detail. Baume & Mercier is spending this year under the Capeland banner, with its American East Coast flavour, while IWC took up residence in Portofino. Roger Dubois is ticking to casino time and even its USB sticks are shaped like gambling chips. Exuberance vs rigour, instinct vs strategy, the completely opposing style of these two men is apparent on all levels. Take their annual reports on the figures and performance of their brands.

    The Richemont Group to which IWC belongs tends not to say too much and prefers to opt for secrecy, much in the same manner as private banks, as if opacity were a measure of power and success. In this respect, the operational style of the group chaired by Johann Rupert is very similar to that of Rolex. Jean-Claude Biver, on the other hand, sends waves of text messages to announce the results of his most recent exhibition, or the signing of a new partnership. At the end of the day, the information that he is supposedly sharing is necessarily only partial, but it is shared with such enthusiasm that it leaves a pleasantly transparent aftertaste.

    The numbers are either stifled or proclaimed to the world at large, and the managers themselves also opt for high or low profiles. Jean-Claude Biver pops up all over the place in the columns of the financial press or social magazines.Georges Kern is more discreet, and while he is quite happy to appear next to football, cinema or literary celebrities, as soon as the public is involved, he promotes the brand itself. Asthey say at Richemont, "The brand is the star". So basically we are looking at two very different recipes for creating the same dish - success.

  • Rolex - Vintage Automobiles and More

    WORLDTEMPUS - 25 August 2011


    Spending several days in Monterey, California, is in and of itself a treat that is only enhanced by the several hundred vintage cars to be seen at one of the world's most amazing tracks and on the eighteenth fairway at the legendary Pebble Beach golf course. The Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion this past weekend was an incredible experience for Rolex retailers and press -- not to mention for enthusiastic spectators and drivers from around the world. This premier historic automobile racing event brings together hundreds of the finest cars in multiple classes on a 2.238-mile course that is famed for "The Corkscrew" with its challenging five-story, 300-foot elevation drop and eleven turns.


     
    550 machines
    This year more than 550 exquisitely maintained machines converged on the track in seventeen different Rolex Race Groups that competed throughout a two-day period. While the overall Rolex Award of Excellence went to Terry Larson of Arizona, who personally raced two of his three Jaguars, any number of other awards could have been given out this weekend for sportsmanship, cars and camaraderie. Indeed, it was an amazing event, with participants from more 27 of the United States, and fourteen different countries coming together. All participants in the pits and the drivers' lounge were friendly and congenial, including drivers and owners of celebrity status, even Brian Johnson of AC/DC (car owner and racer), Sir Sterling Moss, Derek Bell, Dario Franchitti, Martin Brundle, and others who were present.


    Enjoying the festivities
    Races of particular interest included the Jaguar Invitation class, with more than a dozen E-Types racing, and the Ferrari GTO (Gran Turismo Omologato) class with thirteen of these venerable historic cars built between 1962 and 1964, with some valued at up to $30 million each. Rolex, the long-time sponsor of the event, had a tent with watches on display. The Rolex signage around the entire Mazda Laguna Seca Raceway was so prevalent that one was hard-pressed not to know who sponsored the August 19-21 event. Still, Rolex executives remained fairly elusive throughout the weekend, keeping fairly low-key and in the background, with the primary goal being simply to enjoy the festivities with retailers.


    Best show winner car
    Joining Rolex at the 61st Pebble Beach Concours d' Elegance, we experienced one of the most legendary and competitive automobile shows in the world, with owners are invited to participate. Held on the famed eighteenth fairway of Pebble Beach Golf Links, this event is filled with hundreds of the world's finest fully restored or perfectly preserved automobiles, including rare models from Bentley, Rolls Royce, Duesenberg, Rambler, Plymouth, Talbot, Hudson, Renault, Porsche, Jaguar, Packard, Ferrari, and many more -- including a 1953 Bosley Mark 1 G/T Coupe, a 1950 Delahaye and a 1916 prewar preserved Winton Model 33 Touring. This year there was a special exhibition of Stutz, which celebrates its 100th anniversary. The Best of Show Winner was a 1934 Voisin C-25 Aerodyne owned by Peter Mullin, who owns many vintage autos. In all, the luxurious weekend with Rolex and vintage automobiles was inspiring and timelessly elegant.

  • Tennis & Timepieces - A Watch Connoisseur in Paris


    WORLDTEMPUS - 27 May 2011

    During the Australian Open in January, Robin Söderling was asked what people would be most surprised to know about him. The Swede, currently number five in tennis's world rankings, answered, "Probably that I love watches."
    For insiders, this wasn't a big revelation. The two-time French Open finalist is a true aficionado and always wears interesting timepieces on his wrist. He's not the only one, but he is a man who likes "different" watches. "If you walk around the tennis tour, everybody seems to have a nice watch - but I don't really like the obvious ones. In the beginning, maybe yes, but then to have a good brand or a nice model that not many others have is a pretty nice feeling. These are the types of watches you find when reading a lot of watch magazines," he says before jokingly adding, "Well, half of what I read about watches I don't even understand, but I still think it's cool and I try to learn!"
    The more Söderling learns about watches, the more careful he is about choosing his next timepiece: "I never go out just to buy a watch, I never decide on the spot - I always like to look at different watches and to think about it. I buy them as a reward. I always think that the next time I win a tournament I'm going to buy that particular watch I've been thinking about."

    Time to Kill

    His reward doesn't have to be related to a tournament win, actually. A year ago, after beating Tomas Berdych in the semifinals at Roland Garros, he got the Hublot Big Bang he'd been eyeing. When will he get his next timepiece? Maybe soon. Söderling is back in Paris trying to at least emulate his killer performances of the past two years, where he ended two outstanding Rafael Nadal and Roger Federer records: in 2009, in the fourth round, he beat Nadal and still is the only player to have ever beaten the Spaniard at the French Open. In 2010, he overcame Federer in the quarterfinals, ending the Swiss champion's incredible run of 23 consecutive semifinals at Grand Slam tournaments.
    Federer is a well-known Rolex ambassador, whereas Nadal has caused quite a sensation sporting ultra-expensive Richard Mille timepieces, from the $550,000 RM027 tourbillon he wore last year as his good-luck charm to his new RM035. And Roland Garros is sponsored by Longines. Söderling is still thinking about a possible sponsorship and looking at different brands, but he won't rush; he never has when it comes to watches.
    "Good watches are expensive. When I was young and started to win more matches, I really felt I could buy a good watch and I wanted to have a Rolex - and actually the first really nice watch I bought was a pre-owned steel Daytona chronograph that I saw in a shop in London in 2006. I still like it a lot, but these days it's my girlfriend Jenni who has been wearing it; it became a bit small for me, but I reckon small and thin watches are back."


    He didn't have to buy the second good timepiece of his collection. "I got a gold Bulgari Diagono Professional Diving as a gift from the tournament in Bastad - they were happy I played there for so many years, and I was really happy with the present." During this very interview, Söderling is wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Volcano, also known as "The Jarno Trulli."
    "I bought it during the U.S. Open in 2009," he says. That year, in New York, he had been undecided between the Royal Oak Offshore and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm. Then he opted for the Volcano.
    Deep Purple, Hard Rock
    There's a watch in his collection that Soderling particularly appreciates and whose b looks match his powerful "hard-rock" style of tennis: a Graham Chronofighter Oversize Diver "Deep Purple." "I had been looking at Graham, because Thomas Johansson has a friend who owns a watch store in London and they sell Graham - he showed them to me a few years ago." The "Deep Purple" is a stunning limited edition of 500 pieces of the Chronofighter Oversize Diver in black-and-purple. It perfectly embodies the Swedish star's taste for niche brands and exquisite, sporty timepieces. "When my girlfriend Jenni and I went on vacation last December, we went diving a lot and I really wanted to test it, so I brought the Graham along."
    At the Estoril Open in Portugal, Söderling took the time to visit a small watch exhibition by tournament sponsors Boutique dos Relógios in the VIP area. There he appreciated some fine timepieces from several top brands - from Richard Mille to IWC. "For a man, a watch truly is the best thing," he says. "I don't really like earrings or necklaces or bracelets, so a watch is the best accessory and a way of expression for a man."


    And what better way to express himself than wearing a fabulous Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept at the photo shoot for the cover of King magazine? "They brought it from a watch store in Stockholm called Nymans Ur; it's a really nice store where they sell some incredible watches...unfortunately they didn't let me keep it after the shooting was over."
    Maybe he'll get it if he finally wins Roland Garros. It won't be easy; he is on collision course with Nadal, who he is expected to face in a blockbuster quarterfinal. In six appearances at the French Open, the Spaniard has won the title five times - and Söderling was the only one to defeat him on Paris's slow red clay courts. If and when they face each other, time will surely stand still for all tennis (and watch!) aficionados.

  • Arcadia - Rebirth of the Brand


    Swiss watchmaking has continued to reinvent itself throughout the centuries as Swiss craftsmen, inspired by their passion and love of tradition, strive to enhance their precision expertise.
    Maison Bunter, one of the leading specialists in major complications and jewel-setting, has been fired by such passion for some 155 years. Today Bunter is proud to present Arcadia: an innovative watchmaking concept that rises to the challenge of reviving one of the greatest emblems of Switzerland's watchmaking heritage.


    During the 19th century the Arcadia brand was the symbol of Swiss watchmaking excellence and the standard-bearer of the celebrated Fleurier Watch Company, whose creative approach would inspire generations of watchmakers. Now, after falling victim to the 'quartz revolution,' Arcadia, and its incredibly avant-garde models, are being reborn under Bunter President Claude Sanz - a passionate devotee of watchmaking history.
    This new adventure, imbued with unfettered imagination, offers a fresh approach to communicating the values of traditional Swiss watchmaking around the world.

    HISTORY
    1858 - 1970 : Arcadia

    In the early 19th century Swiss watchmaking - hitherto a craftsman's activity - enjoyed one of its earliest industrial booms.
    Thanks to Edouard Bovet, one of the first watchmakers to target the Far Eastern market, the number of watchmakers in Fleurier (a village in the Val-de-Travers near Neuchâtel) more than tripled inside 30 years.
    Jules-Samuel Jequier, who was born in the village in 1835, chose to devote his life to watchmaking from an early age. He joined Bovet in 1856 after training as a jewel-cutter and, thanks to his enthusiasm and entrepreneurial zest, rose swiftly through the firm's ranks.
    Later, helped by his five sons, Jules-Samuel Jequier founded the Fleurier Watch Company, a manufacturer devoted to jewel-cutting and designing watch calibres. The growth of the watchmaking industry would inspire the Jequiers to launch a number of different watchmaking brands.
    Among them: Arcadia.


    rcadia was founded in 1858 and became the flagship of the Fleurier Watch Company. The classically-inspired Fleurier brand enjoyed great renown among connoisseurs of quality watches, epitomized by names like Breitling and Rolex.
    Arcadia watches displayed amazing creativity for the time.
    This avant-garde brand produced some particularly stylish collections, typified by some of its early 20th century models - symbols of Swiss ancestral tradition imbued with modern, indeed contemporary, vision.
    But the arrival of quartz was to be the downfall for many Swiss watchmakers, who failed to realize the importance of the 1970s electronic revolution. Swiss mechanical watches were left behind by cheap, mass-produced, electronic watches from abroad. The resultant economic crisis lasted 15 years and threatened the entire sector, coming close to completely destroying traditional Swiss watchmaking.
    Many Swiss watchmaking firms were forced to close, taking with them the brands which had underpinned their success. Arcadia was no exception and, over a century after its launch by the Fleurier Watch Company, sank into oblivion.


    2010 : Rebirth of Arcadia

    Arcadia represents the crowning glory to an exceptional career and the fulfilment of a dream for a man to whom watchmaking is far more than a job. Claude Sanz cuts a unique figure in the watchmaking world: a trained geologist and mineralogist, as well as an expert in setting and mechanical complications.
    Nearly forty years ago Sanz acquired Bunter, a firm specializing in the cutting of industrial stones and rubies needed for watchmaking. Today, thanks to their mastery of invisible settings and de luxe, made-to-measure projects, Bunter are recognized by all the pre-eminent Swiss watchmaking firms.
    For Sanz, work is a passion: a passion for timepieces, for horological savoir-faire and for watchmaking history. It is also a dream... one he has secretly entertained for many years, to blend his skill and experience with the launch of a watchmaking brand that would write the final chapter of a story that began 35 years ago.
    "When you make watch components, you inevitably think about creating your own brand," says Sanz.
    But his ambition goes further. As a keen historian, he dreams of pursuing the mission of a Swiss watchmaking firm in the purest mechanical tradition - albeit one adapted to the contemporary era.
    In the 1990s Claude Sanz learnt about the incredible story of the Fleurier Watch Company and its star brand, Arcadia. He was fascinated by this forgotten watchmaking venture, and promptly decided to take over the Arcadia brand - which had fallen into the public domain - and revive its century-old traditions. "Arcadia calibres were highly innovative for the time, and the Fleurier Watch Company was considered an international ambassador of Swiss watchmaking," he explains. Today the industry is witnessing a return to small mechanical movements, so Arcadia is perfect for the 21st century! It's the start of a whole new adventure.
    The Arcadia renaissance is underway. With Bunter's structural and technical support, Claude Sanz has set about renovating each Arcadia calibre in the purest watchmaking tradition, inserting them into modern cases with sleek designs, made using the latest avant-garde technologies and materials.
    A combination of the richness of the past and the boldness of the future, Arcadia aims to showcase and perpetuate an exceptional, time-honoured, heritage on the international scene - and restore the prestige of a watchmaking symbol that was the pride of Switzerland for over a hundred years.


    AC01 : Transcending tradition
    With its modern, virile look, the first re-edition of the Arcadia collection strides confidently into the 21st century - while retaining the utmost respect for watchmaking's greatest traditions.


    This can be seen in the powerful design of this audaciously restyled retro model. While retaining its DNA - rounded shapes for the watch and displays within a tonneau case - the Arcadia AC01 has been entirely redesigned in line with today's technical codes. This new design approach is one of extremes: the watch combines harmonious volumes with aggressive elegance, with visible screws and push-pieces reworked to appear part of the case.
    The watch is made from such avant-garde materials as titanium (for the case), carbon (for the split-level dial), and anti-allergenic technological fibre (for the strap), married to watchmaking functions that evoke the awesome savoir-faire of the Fleurier Watch Company: the hour-and-minute display in the centre of the dial is surrounded by four skillfully juxtaposed sub-dials with original, extra functions (including chronograph, date and 24-hour time-zone index). The automatic movement, with 18-carat pink gold rotor, can be admired through a transparent case-back.
    Watchmaking tradition transcended! The watch is edited in a limited series of 275, and offered for sale with a revolutionary concept ideally suited to the era of new technologies: much in the manner of an iPhone or iPad, all data linked to the model (guarantee, aftersale service, orders for further timepieces) is entered on a USB key given to the owner and activated on-line at time of purchase.
    Another novelty: each Arcadia model comes with a travelling case in supple, ultra-resistant neoprene for easy transport and maximum protection.

  • Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date

    The quintessential divers' watch, the absolute reference in its genre, the Submariner has expanded its horizons far beyond the element of its birth in 1953, while denying nothing of its aquatic origins.
    At home in the depths of the oceans, a universe in which it remains the basic instrument of every diver, it long ago conquered terra firma, as the watch of action.
    Waterproof to 100, 200, then 300 metres as it successively evolved since its launch, the Submariner has always been the symbol of Rolex's supremacy in waterproofness.


    New features
    Timeless and impervious to the elements, it is today available in a steel version sporting new features. Its 40 mm case in 904L steel, synonymous with robustness, waterproofness and corrosion resistance, boasts a new rotatable bezel fitted with a practically scratchproof black Cerachrominsert — or green for themodel with the green dial — with platinum graduations.
    Penumbra and soft light
    As much in its element in the penumbra of the ocean floor as in the soft light of sophistication, this new Submariner Date offers exceptional legibility thanks to hour markers and hands coated with luminescent Chromalight. Its mechanical movement equipped with a Perpetual rotor and a Parachrom hairspring pledges increased chronometric precision and reliability. Its unidirectional rotatable graduated bezel allows the safe reading of dive time.


    A power of seduction that never goes out of style
    This new model is no stranger to comfort. The Rolex Glidelock clasp allows for fine adjustments of the bracelet length. On land as at sea, watch and wearer are bound by the emotional charge deriving from the Submariner's irresistible power of seduction.

    REFERENCE (CASE / BRACELET): 116610 LN / 97200
    Case
    Diameter: 40 mm
    Material: 904L steel
    Bezel: unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated
    with black Cerachrom insert, platinum graduations
    Winding crown: Triplock
    shoulders to protect the crown
    Crystal: sapphire, Cyclops lens with anti-reflective coating
    Waterproofness: 300 m (1,000 ft)
    Movement
    Calibre: 3135
    Self-winding: Perpetual rotor
    Date: instantaneous change and rapid setting
    Oscillator: frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour)
    Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil
    Precision: COSC-certified chronometer
    Power reserve: ~48 hours
    Dial
    Hour markers: luminescent Chromalight
    Hands: luminescent Chromalight
    Bracelet
    Material: 904L steel
    Type: Oyster
    Clasp: Rolex Glidelock

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