Dior Christal Red Dial Red Ceramic Ladies Watch CD143111M001

WORLDTEMPUS - 30 November 2012

Time often seems elusive, yet we never tire of trying to track it, capture it, use it to our best advantage - hence, the evolution of wristwatches from purely functional tools to fantastically individualistic statement makers. Few perhaps recognize the power of individuality as succinctly as the house of Dior, which intimately interprets beauty not only in haute couture, but also on the wrist - often turning to subtle couture embellishments for the design inspiration of its timepieces.
Earlier this fall in Paris, I witnessed the introduction of several important new Dior VIII Grand Bal watches at the Biennale and took an exclusive tour of the Avenue Montaigne boutique and haute couture design studio. I was also treated to a very special visit to the Dior Mansion, where Christian Dior grew up on the shores of Normandy. This visit yielded interesting insight into Dior's inspiration and his love of architecture and flowers, as the mansion and its gardens were among his first true loves. It is said that he was also highly influenced by the often gray skies there, later evident in the multiple shades of gray he turned to in his architectural designs.

From fashion to horology
Monsieur Christian Dior founded his legendary haute couture fashion house in the 1940s after dabbling in drawing, cartooning, costume designing and architectural design (his first real love). From the onset, he insisted on chic, classic elegance, focusing on the architectural work of a garment, and the concept that each piece - both inside and out - be beautiful. "Elegance is an ensemble," said Dior, "Where the invisible is as important as the visible."
Dior's haute couture collections -one-of-a-kind pieces presented twice each year - won him amazing acclaim from the outset. While Dior only enjoyed ten years of success (he started his business in 1947 and died ten years later), those who have carried on his legend over the past half-century have never lost sight of his design principles - enabling the brand to grow from haute couture into other important realms, including accessories, home furnishings, perfumes and - easily one of the most coveted series - timepieces.
Much like the making of a haute couture dress for a client, which takes a minimum of two months to create and deliver (and can cost tens of thousands of dollars), the making of Dior timepieces is a seamless creative process that originates in the design halls of the Avenue Montaigne studios in Paris and concludes in the brand's Swiss watch factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Dior's watches exude elegance and embody all the principals of Dior haute couture - like the Dior VIII, which was first introduced in 2011, has since enjoyed a host of incarnations, and is easily one of the most desirable Dior timepiece collections today.
"Dior VIII evokes the haute couture heritage of the house of Dior based on timeless elegance. It is born from the desire of the house to express its codes while respecting orthodox watchmaking expertise," says Laurence Nicolas, CEO of Dior Montres. The architecture of the line is a metaphor for a couture house's wardrobe, comprised of day, cocktail (with colored gemstones), and evening versions (Grand Bal timepieces).

The Grand Bal

Dior VIII Grand Bal watches are individually made, with many featuring the superb, recently created Dior Inverse caliber - with the rotor of the watch inversed - placed on the dial side of the watch and amazingly decorated in gemstone marquetry, feathers, or embellished with other enchanting elements.
"The Dior Inverse caliber is a technical feat because the oscillating weight is in openwork, lacquered or set with diamonds, the design of each model is different - requiring a total recalculation of the inertia of each weight for each model," explains Nicolas. "The whirling movement animates the dial and recalls the swirl of a ball gown."
Each of the Dior VIII watches takes its color or motif inspiration from the detailing of Dior couture clothing - from linings and toile, to ribbons, bows, ruffles, fringe, sequins, patterns, colors and more. Indeed, the watch designers have a wealth of inspiration from which to draw upon and interpret into wrist reality. Among the newest Dior VIII pieces are dials delicately made of gemstones such as lapis lazuli, malachite and onyx - often in marquetry - and bedecked with colorful sapphires and other precious stones to emulate the haute couture of the great marque.

 
While many pieces are spectacularly colorful, the new Dior VII Grand Bal Beverly Hills Special Edition, inspired by Dior's taste for grand balls, heralds his love of the simplicity and purity of white. The one-of-a-kind piece, equipped with the Dior Inverse caliber, features a white ceramic bracelet with signature pyramid-shaped links, and the case is crafted in white gold. This special "Drape" edition boasts a finely crafted, elegant mother-of-pearl dial with a white mother-of-pearl marquetry star on it (indicative of the Hollywood stars of the famed walkway), visible with every spin of the oscillating weight. The inversed oscillating weight is created in 18-karat white gold, decorated with white mother-of-pearl, and features edges meticulously set with diamonds emulating a fringe, or draped look. The 38 mm automatic watch shimmers with a bezel snow-set with diamonds - making for a total of 373 diamonds weighing 2.15 carats. Its case back is an opalescent sapphire crystal engraved with "1/1."