Bulgari - The carillon 2.0
The carillon is one of the rarest horological complications, especially in its 'simple' version, if such is the operative word for a minute repeater chiming on more than two notes! The very definition of a carillon is its ability to play a tune. The most common one is paradoxically the most complex, the Westminster chime reproducing that of Big Ben. There are several variations on this classic theme, whereas striking mechanisms such as that of the Bulgari Carillon Tourbillon are much rarer, chiming E-D-C for the quarters.
This watch first launched in 2012 was thus distinguished by its melody as well as by its appearance. Its case is a nod to the Daniel Roth collections that are instantly recognizable by their two straight-cut sides. The highly distinctive, bly domed sapphire crystal was also marked off by two gold lines: one framing the strike governor at 10 o'clock, and the other the tourbillon at 6 o'clock, since connoisseurs will remember that this watch also features a very beautiful and generously sized tourbillon.
In 2015, Bulgari has decided to do a complete rethink of this model's design. The movement remains identical and still chimes as tunefully as ever. Its finishes shaped like sunbeams radiating from the tourbillon, as well as the browny-grey shade and the partial skeleton-working, are also the same. The case is definitely where the changes have been made.
Firstly, the Daniel Roth signature has disappeared from both the watch and its title. With a new signature appearing discreetly at 6 o'clock, Bulgari asserts itself as the only name on board, thereby taking things to the next level in terms of the integration of this brand that used to be one of its subsidiaries. Instead of dedicated cut-outs in the watch glass, the "watch face" now appears suspended from the inner bezel ring, thus providing a far clearer view of the striking gongs.
The second major change is that the sapphire crystal is entirely smooth, uninterrupted and free. On the underside, the extremely straight, understated gold hour-markers and 12 o'clock Roman numerals punctuate the rim of the dial - which as such remains inexistent. Nothing thus detracts from the starring role of the movement that is majestically visible and magnificently showcases the tourbillon that is not even partially obscured by any hour-markers. Its large curving bridge is in the foreground and very much in the spotlight.
As mentioned earlier, the design work has chiefly modified the case. Its contours and its 43 mm diameter remain the same, but almost all the details have changed. The gadroons are smoother and the lugs are now anchored in the bezel, extending the curve of the watch from the glass through to the wrist to create a seamlessly integrated effect.
The last change one must mention is as important as it is discreet. The striking lever is now better integrated in a lower position on the case middle. Formerly ribbed with a curve pointing in the opposite direction to that of the thumb, it is now smoother and more ergonomically shaped to fit the finger handling it. The end result is a Bulgari Carillon Tourbillon that is softer and more aesthetically homogenous than its predecessor. It has maintained its specific features and distinctive angles, while achieving enhanced elegance through greater simplicity.
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