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Top Quality Rado Black Watches (183) Items
Top Quality Rado Black Watches (183) Items

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  • Harry Winston - Premier Precious Butterfly Automatic 36mm

    A House such as Harry Winston radiates excellence and authenticity in everything it has been undertaking since 1932, blazing its own unique trail in the history of High Jewelry and Haute Horlogerie - from sparkling diamonds on the red carpet to the saga of the Opus models in the world of fine watchmaking collectors and artistic crafts applied to watchmaking. Standout innovative creativity has always been the inspirational guiding force behind the work accomplished by the development teams, as was the case when introducing the art of plumasserie on the surprising eponymous models of the Premier collection featuring dials adorned with bird feathers.

    Driven by the same avant-garde spirit, Harry Winston has developed an entirely original technique for harvesting the natural pigments from butterfly wings and applying them to a metal dial plate. Three years of research have culminated in this exceptional result, creating exceptional tableaux the size of a watch dial while reflecting the infinite beauty of nature. Just as with feathers, the poetic paradox of this complex technique lies in transposing the ephemeral into eternity while preserving its intrinsic qualities. The extreme fragility of butterfly wings flutters away once immortalized on the dial after the ultra-meticulous harvesting of tiny scales filled with extraordinary pigments from the "Agrias Claudina Lugens" variety. The spectacular iridescence and the intensity of the colors are maintained, while the light playing across the watch as it changes direction on the wrist even creates a sense of movement. While the pigment colors thus appear to be modified, they are in fact stabilized and do not deteriorate. Each model is thus as unique as butterfly wings themselves, even though each of the four models is distinguished by a dedicated motif from a butterfly species ("Adelpha Lara" and "Chrysiridia Madagascariensis" being the other two). Reflecting the inimitable refinement of Harry Winston refinement, the satin straps match the dial colors.

    Beneath the kaleidoscopic dial, the theme of motion continues with a self-winding Manufacture movement whose precision is enhanced by a silicon balance-spring such as very few brands are capable of producing. The decoration visible through the sapphire crystal caseback is more traditional than on the front of the Premier Precious Butterfly and includes circular Côtes de Geneve, circular graining and rhodium plating. Rarity now has a face… and wings.

  • Chamfering (bevelling) - Light shining into every corner

    In technical jargon, the term chamfering or bevelling refers to cutting down the sharp edges of watch components. It enables the light to play over the rims of the bridges, screws, plates, springs and cams of a movement. Thus accentuated by ever-changing slivers of light, the parts stand out and take on a nobler, more voluminous appearance.

    The French term is slightly ambiguous. On the one hand, it refers to the chamfering of the part, which consists of recutting a softer yet clean angle along the contours of the parts. Instead of 90 degrees with inevitably slightly jagged edges, the result is a smooth surface and a 45-degree angle. However, it is also used in relation to polishing this same surface in order to make it shine.

    Like most watchmaking finishes in the domain of , chamfering arose from a technical necessity. When parts emerge from machining, their edges are sharp and irregular. They are however assembled by hand, which has meant that to avoid watchmakers or other artisans cutting their fingers, the angles are traditionally softened, planed and neutralised.

    Driven by the b trend towards openworking and the considerable progress in the precision of the machine tools that make watch components, chamfering in the sense of planing down is now mostly done by machine. This saves time for the artisans working by hand and improves the finish of mid-range parts that would in any case not have been given a high-end polish.

    Chamfering or bevelling in the sense of polishing is paradoxically very much in vogue. While one might be tempted to believe that machines have rendered such techniques obsolete, demand for movements decorated according to the finest standards is in fact constantly progressing. There is an important distinction here, since machine polishing of angles is fairly rudimentary. To achieve clearly visible, high-quality results, brands perform manual chamfering, meaning that the polishing tool is hand-guided. This may involve an electric lathe fitted with a polishing head, a buff covered with sandpaper, or even a hand-carved wooden peg. Sometimes two types of tool are used successively: one to do the roughing out, and the other to given added brilliance.

    Once again, there are varying degrees of quality that are visible for those with a sharp eye. There is an instantly discernible difference between a beautiful polish and a mirror polish. Between a flat polish and a domed polish that is far harder to create, it is obvious which has required more time.

    There is still however the much-debated topic of the angles. The points where the contours of the parts change direction are key to the overall appearance. They are called exterior angles when they form a pointed tip, and interior angles if they form a hollow. They are a traditional playground for chamferers because they impart a distinctive visual rhythm to the surfaces. It is possible to create interior angles by machines, but they lack luminosity and a slightly irregular touch. The technique consists of mounting very high up the part and tracing a deep and three-dimensional V shape on the surface so as to accentuate the geometry of an edge. There again, the difference is visible; there too, careful observation separates the wheat from the chaff, as well as good wheat from super high-grade wheat…

  • Raymond Weil - Music, Maestro!


    WORLDTEMPUS - 14 March 2011

    Unlike previous years, the Raymond Weil brand chose not to unveil any new line of timepieces at Baselworld in 2012, opting for some fine tuning instead to complement its existing collections. That fact alone speaks for itself: the Geneva-based brand didn't feel the radical urge to satisfy any new demands coming from emerging markets or adapt to any kind of aesthetics in order to play to the classic Asian tastes that have been molding the industry in recent times. It is a fact that Raymond Weil has always boasted that classic touch since its inception - largely inspired by classical music.
    The brand was founded in 1976 by its namesake, Raymond Weil, whose daughter - a talented pianist - became a professional musician. The timepieces have always been more classic than rock n' roll, starting with the baptism of the various lines throughout the last three decades. Raymond Weil did try to go upmarket when it was time to and adjusted the collection at the entry level when the going got tough a couple of years ago, always displaying remarkable versatility and never betraying its own classic style that seems to be the main trend in watchmaking these days.


    Maestro and soloists
    "This year we are celebrating several successful lines with creative variations and new masterpieces," says Olivier Bernheim, who is Raymond Weil's son-in-law and the brand's CEO since 1996. "For instance, the classic Maestro collection has welcomed a few more elegant and finely crafted models such as the Quantieme a Aiguille and the Phase de Lune Semainier."
    These two particular timepieces are clearly imbued with Raymond Weil's DNA and boast the kind of aesthetics the Chinese clients are looking for: guilloche-patterned dials, small mechanical complications and elegant proportions. The importance of the Chinese market is evident through advertisements hanging in the brand's booth at Baselworld, which feature two well-known Chinese actors: Jiang Wen and Zhou Yun.


    Another quite important factor from China's perspective is a cultural one: the familial ties. Raymond Weil is among the best known independent watch brands and likes to underscore those ties - be it through images in the catalogue or during media appointments, with Olivier Bernheim bringing his sons Elie and Pierre into the limelight. Even though the maestro conductor has the reputation of having a b grasp on the company, he likes to see his sons playing solo.
    China catching up
    "When we were preparing this year's new products for Baselworld, the mindset was to evolve and not to revolutionize our catalogue," Elie Bernheim says, as his father listens at his side. "We wanted to work on what we already had and add some more variety and price accessibility, consolidate what we had, especially making the Maestro line ber. Maestro is the classic and elegant horology product China has been looking for - with an affordable price on top."


    The Maestro line, which includes classic horological elements and even women's mechanical models, has a strategic price point for Raymond Weil, an important price point for European retailers in times of recession because most people still come looking for that price range when they look for a quality watch. But how has the Chinese market evolved since emerging as the industry's new El Dorado?
    "China has been great for us year after year, with triple-digit growth," Elie Bernheim discloses. "It's almost scary because it can induce a certain dependence. But we are lucky because our market share is also b elsewhere in the world; even if our catalogue provides what China is looking for, the same kind of product is also appealing in other markets. Right now the United States is our first market, with around 750 sales points." However, there has been a slight shift regarding Asian interest. "After all those years looking for pure classic features, China is slowly catching up, asking for more chronographs and bigger sizes."
    From bigger to big
    The powerfully designed Nabucco chronograph has been quite successful, boasting a 46 mm case. "People with smaller wrists were a bit frustrated because they loved the watch but felt it was too big for them. The new Nabucco 43 mm size is dedicated to them - and on top of it the demand for such a watch is growing in Asia," says Elie Bernheim. "Just like the 46 mm Nabucco, there will be a different 43 mm Nabucco model each year."

Rado Black

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