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Even as the Cadillac Eldorado, with its unmistakable 1950s design and extraordinarily elongated rear fins, started to take us on a circuitous route to the casino in Baden-Baden, speculation about what the Opus 14 could be was still rife. The brand had kept everything so firmly under wraps that guesses ranged from the theme of the space age to something related to the thermal springs for which the German resort is so famous.

But the answer finally came not from the cars, or from the American-themed diner at which the event was held, but instead from one of the most iconic objects found in it, long since forgotten by a younger generation: the jukebox.

I'm pleased to say that some of my (admittedly safe) guesses about the new piece were correct: yes, it has a white-gold case; yes, it once again has a totally unique way of displaying the time and more significantly, it has a manually-wound movement whose power reserve does indeed go to power an energy-hungry, innovative complication in the form of the jukebox automaton. The two points where I was slightly wide of the mark are the case size, since the Opus 14 is a whopping 54.7mm in diameter (and an even more impressive 17.5mm thick), and the limited edition number, which is a generous 50 pieces.

At the heart of the new Opus 14, which is a collaboration between Harry Winston and watchmakers Franck Orny and Johnny Girardin, is an automaton complication that mimics the action of the arm of a jukebox as it selects individual vinyl records and places them on to the player. Only in this case, the four vinyl discs display the home time, GMT time, the date and a star bearing the signature of Mr. Harry Winston. When the pushbutton at 4 o'clock is pressed, a moving arm picks the disc up and sets it onto the platform to be read. While the disc displaying the local time remains in place at 9 o'clock, the chosen GMT, date or star disc is positioned on this platform. Pressing the push-piece a second time once the disc is in place reactivates the arm, which moves the disc back into the store.

The soul of the Opus 14 is shaped by each detail: the stylized display of the local time at 9 o'clock, the vinyl-style finishes on the various dials, the two-toned insignia bearing the number 14 typical of US highway number signs, the shaded red of the retrograde minutes arc, the style and blue tone of the hour markers. This spirit also infuses the presentation case, itself inspired by the jukebox. The miniaturization of the jukebox mechanism is a first and has been patented by Harry Winston.

The complexity of the movement, exclusive to Harry Winston, and the identity of the Opus collection, lies in its two distinct power reserves. One ensures up to 68 hours of timekeeping autonomy; the other guarantees up to five back and forth disc movements. Although the power reserves are separate and function independently, they are driven by a shared winding mechanism. In addition, the push-pieces on the lugs at 12 o'clock allow the wearer to correct the date and GMT. An unprecedented 1,066 components (probably a tribute the legendary Route 66 rather than the Battle of Hastings) help to bring the unique Opus 14 to life.  

It's one of the most popular brands in Asia, where it established itself more than a century ago, well before the success of emerging countries stirred the current widespread keen interest. The firm remains independent of the major watch groups. While Ernest Borel doubtless makes fewer waves than some of its counterparts, it remains an historical pillar of the 'Swiss made' identity worldwide.

A quarter of a century in Hong Kong
Next year, in 2016, Ernest Borel will be celebrating its 160th anniversary. The company makes no secret of the crises it has endured, starting with the quartz wave in the 1980s. This transparency is all the more to its credit in that it survived by implementing a development policy well ahead of its time. Its prime territory is Asia and Ernest Borel has notably just celebrated 25 years of activity in Hong Kong, which has meanwhile established itself as one of the hotspots of the global watch trade.

Ernest Borel conquered this promised land with a highly distinctive positioning: romance. In the late 20th century when the Asian 'dragons' were in a free-spending mood, when gold reigned supreme and quartz was the in thing, promoting the romantic spirit of fine mechanical Swiss watchmaking was a bold move indeed. So why was the brand successful where so many others failed? Precisely because this romantic image and these historical roots were entirely credible in light of the brand's own history.

Reflecting the stability of its executive management, with the Borel family firmly at the helm for almost a century, the Ernest Borel brand is dedicated to ensuring a consistent and coherent approach in all its endeavours. It has proved capable of exporting its expertise without betraying its roots. The brand used to develop its own movements, some of which even featured a minute repeater mechanism. The requirements of its export markets have led it to develop other approaches, notably by reinforcing a range that now comprises 40 or so references.

The virtues of Swiss romanticism
One particular theme stands out among these models: romance and dancing. Here again, in an era firmly focused on electronic beats and a serial-lover consumer-type approach to relationships, this stance is decidedly singular.

It actually stems from a particular dance in which Ernest Borel himself was a protagonist with his partner at a ball held in 1898. According to the romantic legend related by the brand: "Their graceful dance drew the audience in with others looking on enviously, a photographer then caught their romantic moments on camera. The elegant dance and the romance of the moment ignited Ernest Borel's inspiration, prompting him to design the trademark logo to immortalize this magical experience. The dancing couple has been the brand's trademark and inspiration since the late 19th/early 20th century."

21st century ambitions
More than a century later, Ernest Borel remains true to its timeless elegance. The brand is a patron of the city of Weifang, renowned as the cradle of kite parades, a supremely romantic tradition. Last November, the brand unveiled a model for couples in its Retro collection, also entirely in tune with this spirit of romance.

Are such commitments disconnected from daily reality? Far from it. Ernest Borel is not the kind of outmoded, out-of-touch brand one might be tempted to imagine. Less than six months ago, it donated 400 desks and school supplies to a school in difficulty. Last summer, in a country much decried for its counterfeits, Ernest Borel paid tribute to China that has given it so much by organising a major conference on the theme of intellectual property.

These successes are having a very real economic impact. Ernest Borel announced its latest annual results topping 30 million euros, based on a network of around 1,100 points of sale. Paradoxically, the brand is planning to take the exact opposite path to that which first led it to China. 15 new points of sale outside the country are to open soon and Ernest Borel is undertaking broader diversification of its collections towards the high-end segment. Finally, back at its headquarters in Le Noirmont, Switzerland, Ernest Borel is planning to expand its production site to help it keep pace with its growth.
 

The iconic Arceau collection saddles up for a new expression of equestrian sports with the new Arceau Chrono Bridon, interpreted in five versions. All models feature a new bradoon strap, along with the same rounded case design, stirrup-shaped asymmetrical lugs and sloping Arabic numerals as the original line designed by Henri d'Origny in 1978.
Inspired by riding bridles, the small leather bit known as a bradoon reinforces the strap attachment to the case with distinctive saddle stitching. Crafted from Barenia calfskin, an historical material for Hermes; or from bridle leather, a rough material that is extremely tough to handle, the new straps of the Arceau Chrono Bridon highlight the harness and saddle-making expertise of the House. Available in black, natural, ebony or indigo blue versions, they are a delightful extension of the curving case.
At the heart of the Arceau Chrono Bridon beats a self-winding chronograph calibre that captures the time spent in great escapes on horseback. The central seconds-hand sweeps steadily around the dial, sometimes clad in orange on sportier versions or else made from steel or blued steel for the more classic models, entirely in harmony with the counter hands. A mechanical composition enriched with equestrian accents, the Arceau Chrono Bridon is creatively nurtured by the innate elegance of horses.
 

 
Amid the stillness of the city, wrapped in a shroud of darkness punctuated by diamond-like sparks from the cityscapes, a mysterious creeping creature appears. Its predatory air and stealthy prowl foreshadow a powerful revelation. The C1 BlackSpider unveils a dramatic mutation with dazzling diamond brilliance adorning its horological arachnid body parts. This potent and exquisitely shimmering transformation captures the fascinating paradox between the distinctive horological design and authentic prowess in the realm of horological mechanics.
 

The fascinating arthropod appears to be suspended in mid-air, with eight legs firmly embedded in the generous 47 mm-diameter, 13.55 mm deep ultra-light titanium case - while the movement plate, symbolizing its abdomen and also serving as the watch dial, lies at the bottom of the empty space created by the remarkable depth. The watch movement elements aligned down the middle reveal the nerve center of this mesmerizingly disturbing creature. The rhythmical oscillations of the tourbillon mechanism occupy a space of their own, entirely in tune with the gravity-defying nature of this emblematic beast.
The cut-outs admirably highlight Concord's fundamental construction principles - including its sturdy design, side-screwed protective ring, "ramparts" protecting the anti-reflective sapphire crystal and fortified crown - while accentuating the "camouflage" effect that helps it merge smoothly into its natural metropolitan environment. This is a creature that deserves to be viewed from both sides, and the exhibition case-back reveals the handsomely decorated 19-jewel hand-wound C105 movement, with its sandblasted and polished bridges, steadily beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour.
This dramatic new predator clings firmly to the wrist on a black rubberized alligator strap held by four self-locking screws and a smoothly flowing lug-free attachment construction.
A brilliant new form of watchmaking life has escaped from the C Lab: the electrifyingly resplendent C1 BlackSpider Brilliant is out there, thriving in the radiance of the city lights - meticulously spinning its web as it prepares to attract and capture its doubtlessly willing prey.

Following the resounding success of the first edition in 2010, the Franck Muller Group's second World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie & Jewellery event, which took place at Monaco's Grimaldi Forum from 29 September to 2 October 2011, surpassed its predecessor and ended on a note of optimism tinged with excellence.
The second WPHH & Jewellery event, which came to a close on Sunday, 2 October 2011, was greeted with great enthusiasm by professionals from the sector and the international press. The Franck Muller Group's nine brands - Franck Muller, Franck Muller Jewellery, Pierre Kunz, ECW, Rodolphe, Barthelay, Backes & Strauss, Martin Braun, Pierre Michel Golay and Smalto Timepieces - and its four partners - Cvstos, Carlo Illario, Joaillier Prive and Valmont - demonstrated the various aspects of the watchmaker's and jeweller's art through their exceptional creations and services.
Over the course of the three-day event, the 1,200 lucky visitors were able to feast their eyes on the new models presented by the 14 exhibiting brands, including Franck Muller, which unveiled its self-winding Lady Tourbillon, its Infinity Ronde timepiece and its magnificent collection of watches set with baguette-cut diamonds. All of these models were thoughtfully designed with jewellery and watchmaking enthusiasts in mind.
 

A few privileged guests were also able to enjoy a wonderful feeling of well-being provided by a relaxing massage, courtesy of the Swiss cosmetics specialist Valmont. A temporary spa was set up especially for this purpose at the Rodolphe stand, with whom the brand has been in partnership since February 2011.
As announced previously, the brand new iPhone application was officially unveiled during the press conference. In addition to classic tools that enable users to discover the collection and locate the various points of sale, the application also features interfaces that allow enthusiasts to immerse themselves in the fascinating world of the Crazy Hours, Secret Hours and Vegas timepieces. Just for fun, it also provides a Franck Muller virtual handset for dialling telephone numbers. The application will soon be available for free download from the Apple Store.
 

Legendary timepieces, legendary concerts and legendary evenings: the Franck Muller Group likes to celebrate its exhibitions in luxurious style for the pleasure of its guests. The brand called upon some real show-business stars for this edition in Monaco. First, the 500 hand-picked guests were welcomed to the Gala evening by the beautiful music of talented pianist Katie Mahan, who had travelled all the way from Colorado, and the magnificent tenor Claudio Versace. To leave a lasting impression on the prestigious guests, the roof and doors of the "Salle des Etoiles" at the Monte-Carlo Sporting Club were opened to make way for a glorious fireworks display against the backdrop of the legendary "Le Rocher", a truly breathtaking sight! The evening was brought to an explosive close by the "Goldsingers" group, who sang today's greatest hits and had the audience dancing until two o'clock in the morning. It was a truly magical, unforgettable evening and a worthy successor to the long list of renowned Franck Muller Gala evenings.