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Top Quality Rado Black Watches (183) Items
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  • Forum de la Haute Horlogerie - Interview with Fabienne Lupo

    Worldtempus: After five years of tackling specific notions of time, this is the first time that the forum looks specifically to the future. How do you define the topic for the forum each year and what factors do you consider? How did "What's next?" emerge as the theme for this year?
     
    Fabienne Lupo: The first five Forums de la Haute Horlogerie explored different "times": time to change, time to rethink, time to act, time to share and a "time of paradox", thus laying the groundwork for a reflection on what tomorrow holds.
     
    And so is "What's Next", the theme of this 6th Forum. Generations, technologies, markets… new horizons, new stakeholders and new challenges for which we must be prepared. Tomorrow's world will have a different face to the world of today, and while we are simply imagining what this face might be, young generations are making it happen.
     
    These are the legitimate questions which this Forum de la Haute Horlogerie sets out to answer through an analysis of this new environment and its main protagonists, namely the new generation who carry our hopes without being afraid to challenge them. "What's Next?" is clearly the question we need to ask.

    How do you see the FHH's role in helping members to educate and communicate with the "millenials", the haute horlogerie customers of tomorrow? Do you think all watch brands are aware of this and prepared?
     
    The millenials, this new emerging generation, are the future customers of our brands and they live a very different life compared with previous generations in terms of their identity, their imagination, attitudes and consumer behaviour. They were born with the Internet and cannot imagine life without being "connected".
    It is therefore all the more important for watch brands to explain what is behind the scenes, what lies beneath the dial of a mechanical watch and the cultural and scientific values that make Haute Horlogerie a world apart.
     
    This is particularly important for younger generations who have grown up with electronics and it explains the efforts by luxury brands and watchmakers to set up a presence on new media like social networks in order to interact and establish a dialogue with this new generation.
     
    Furthermore, we specifically chose this year to open the forum up to the millenials themselves, inviting young students selected by the partner schools of the Foundation (EPFL, EHL, ECAL, HEG, HES, HEC and "Sup de Luxe"), which will undoubtedly provide the opportunity for some interesting exchanges of ideas.

    The Forum de la Haute Horlogerie is not afraid to tackle the burning issue of smartwatches. But do you consider these a genuine threat to haute horlogerie, or can the two co-exist on the wrist?
     
    From all that we have heard since Apple presented its smartwatch, I think that we can draw a few interesting conclusions. On the whole, these new products do not offer any real advantages over a smartphone other than that they are more "immediate" because they are worn on the wrist. And this will always be the case, regardless of their design. There are also still two big question marks regarding their operation, namely their battery life and water resistance. But these smartwatches will undoubtedly open up new markets and will become a competitor to what we could call the entry-level watches.
     
    Are they a threat to Haute Horlogerie? I weigh my answer carefully because we are not talking about the same type of products. Of course, smartwatches display the time and do much more besides but they do not meet the same needs or desires. I would say it is more a question of the battle for the wrist! These smartwatches are closer to computers with their "useful" functions, while on the other hand we are talking about timepieces that use traditional techniques and incorporate true craftsmanship. The debate about this will be interesting because nobody can predict the future. We need to remain vigilant!

  • Hysek - Baselworld 2014: A lesson in skeletonisation

    Anyone who strode the aisles at Baselworld 2014 will have noted certain recurrent trends. One of them in particular earned universal approval: skeletonised models and/or openworked models. Why so? Doubtless because this exercise consisting of revealing all or part of a watch movement through the dial provides an opportunity to display its finishing, the complexity of its calibre, to offer a visual play on volumes and shimmering reflections: in short, to highlight skill and expertise.

    Proper usage of the right words
    Nonetheless, many people either deliberately or involuntarily confuse models that are skeletonised or openworked. Strictly speaking, the former should reveal a movement deliberately crafted so as to be considerably lighter and reduced to bare essentials in order to allow the light to flood through it; whereas the latter dispenses with all or part of its dial, while unveiling a movement that is fundamentally the same as that of a model with a solid dial. In a nutshell, openworking a watch is a technique, whereas skeletonising a movement is an art.


    Hysek is one of the rare watch manufacturers to work on both these aspects. The Kilada Tourbillon, for example, features only one half of a colourful dial, the other being translucent and thus revealing part of the movement. This might thus have been a merely openworked model, but a closer look shows that some parts have been specifically reworked to enhance visibility. The tourbillon bridge is thus graced with four round cut-outs providing a clearer view of the balance-spring.
     

    The core of the matter
    In parallel, the brand also presented some authentic skeletonised models. These are distinguished not only by the work of removing material from each part, but also by Hysek's determination to use skeletonisation to reveal the personality of the Manufacture. The latter is indeed one of the only brands of which the horological complications and sometimes the entire movement are positioned according to extremely precise geometrical lines. For example, Hysek systematically arranges its dials in such a way that the 1, 5, 7 and 11 o'clock positions play a major role in the construction of the model. If a watch has a solid dial, the hour-markers only be in these positions; and if it is skeletonised, the key organs will be revealed in these positions.
    One example is the Furtif Tourbillon, which displays the regulating organ after which it is named at 11 o'clock, while the going train stretches clearly right the way to 5 o'clock.


    The same underlying principle applies to the new Verdict 46 mm, on which two tourbillons occupy the 5 and 7 o'clock positions; as well as to the 49 mm IO model also unveiled at Baselworld, with the tourbillon at 11 o'clock and the barrel at 7 o'clock. Nothing is coincidental at Hysek, and this skeleton-worked approach clearly reveals the true personality of the brand.

    Living skeleton
    For Hysek, skeleton watches represent an opportunity not only to play with the art of removing material, but also with its surface treatment and indeed its very nature. On this same IO 49 mm, the brand alternates between various finishes (satin-brushed or shiny), coatings (black PVD, gold plating, nickel silver), and even decorations (circular graining, sunburst or windrose patterns - the latter being a particularly rare finish that Hysek is one of the few to use). On this model, the barrel and its corresponding bridge alone display all three of these decorations.
     


    While the exercise is of course decorative and vividly demonstrates the finishing skills of a Manufacture such as Hysek, there is much more involved. When actually worn on the wrist, these aesthetic variations catch and refract the light in their own unique ways. At the end of the day, the more sophisticated and finely crafted the skeletonisation, the more a model radiates a sense of depth, light - and life! Therein lies the art and paradox of the noble craft of skeletonisation: since when it comes to watchmaking, nothing is more vibrantly alive than a skeleton!
     

  • Eberhard & Co - A passion for the Gran Premio Nuvolari

    On the 20th of September, Piazza Sordello in Mantua will be the location of the starting line for the 23rd edition of the Gran Premio Nuvolari, the world's leading regularity race in terms of technical difficulty and second-ranked in number of crews and kilometres raced.
    As ever Eberhard & Co. will bring its unmistakable style and elegance as official timekeeper. There is a b and lasting bond between the brand, which specialises in the production of highly technical timepieces, and the fascinating world of speed and classic motor racing. The connection dates back to 1991 when the watchmaker dedicated a special collection of chronographs to the greatest driver of all time, Tazio Nuvolari, and became the Sponsor of the Gran Premio Nuvolari. Since then it has been the event's official timekeeper and sponsor.
    This bond with classic cars has strengthened over time and in 2010 the company made an exceptional partnership with the Mantuan scuderia Classicteam, led by Corrado Corneliani. Classicteam Eberhard debuted at the Gran Premio Nuvolari that same year and since then it has been supported by the company in all of the most important competitions.
    "As part of our sponsorship activities we participate in many of the most important vintage car events," said Mario Peserico, Managing Director of Eberhard. "We select those that best reflect our brand's style, elegance, sophistication and attention to detail. For us, Nuvolari is still the event we feel closest to, given the importance of the competition - this year the great Italian and foreign drivers will be separated by just 100ths of seconds. But above all because of the beauty and charm of a competition in which every curve and straight harks back to the myth of one of the greatest drivers of all time. We all get behind our team, which put in an outstanding performance at last year's Nuvolari and which continues to thrill us, from the Italian Championship to the team's victory at Mendola-Mendel History, and as the first-placed team in the Summer Marathon, to name just our most recent successes."
    The winners of the GP Nuvolari will be awarded an Eberhard & Co. timepiece. The Gran Premio Nuvolari will also see the official presentation in Italy of the new model from the Tazio Nuvolari collection: Tazio Nuvolari Vanderbilt Cup Naked.

  • Pierre Kunz - G017 Blaktop transparent dial

    From the Earth to the Moon by Jules Verne remains a work with the charm of the first steps towards accomplishing the improbable. Pierre Kunz is alluding to this and playing with graphic trends. He emphasises new aesthetics and adorns his dial openings with resolutely pioneering writing or drawings.
    Pierre Kunz places a large date at 6 o'clock in a 44 mm steel case. An original large date enhanced by simple rubber which in no way hides the subtle, two-wheel mechanism.
    The totally transparent dial trimmed simply with organic index in metal sets the scene, sun or moon. Thanks to a sector neatly positioned at 11 o'clock the sun rises on the cartoon side and sets giving way to a moon with a thousand craters and transfigured stars. The four-colour system reproduces faithfully the original design sketched by Pierre Kunz, thus feeding the paradox between the technical aspect of watchmaking and the candour of the outline.
    A time zone borrowed from sundials brings the subtle missing touch to the dial. Here again it is beautifully balanced, symmetrical and playful. A dial always in movement and in complication. Pierre Kunz likes to play with his watchmaker's art and his creativity.

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