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Top Quality Oris Automatic Watches (365) Items
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  • Power reserves - A major gap

    The vast majority of mechanical movements have a 46-hour power reserve. Once off the wrist and without any energy supply, watches thus equipped run for barely two days before stopping. This figure largely determines the relationship we have with our watch and its daily reality.
    This de facto standard is however being shaken up by two types of advancements. The first is the appearance of a new minimum of around 60 hours that has been adopted for a dozen or so brands that have launched a new movement in recent years. 60 hours is a time span that enables a wearer to take his or her watch off on a Friday evening and slip it back on again on the following Monday morning when returning to the office.

    The second breakthrough is a large wave of innovations in the field of running time. For a long time, the only choice was between two days or eight days - the latter option being a symbolic figure inherited from carriage clocks. Within the space of a decade, models covering the entire spectrum of durations ranging from 2 to 14 days have emerged and autonomy records have been successively shattered. Images are more eloquent than texts when it comes to consulting the power-reserve rankings, and our photo gallery is provided here as a means of presenting them by order and in the (metal) flesh .

    Nonetheless, this extremely palpable performance that proves so useful to the wearer is based on a mechanical approach. There is no one single solution for extending movements' autonomy. As a first option, sometimes all that is required is to rework the geometry of an escapement in order to reduce its energy consumption and to thereby - literally mechanically - extend its running time from two to three days.

    Other brands adopt the most obvious choice: playing with the size of the 'storage tank', meaning the barrel. The latter cylinder-shaped component houses a long coiled spring - the mainspring - that is tautened by winding and releases the energy thus accumulated according to the movement's needs. All it takes to make the energy last longer is a longer spring contained within a larger barrel. This effective solution is used by Oris to achieve a ten-day power reserve and by A. Lange & Söhne to reach 31 days - albeit such feats can lead to other issues relating to the enormous power that has to be harnessed.

    The third approach taken by some is to multiply the number of barrels. Two in many cases, four for Chopard, seven for Jacob & Co. and a current maximum of 11 with the MP-05 LaFerrari by Hublot. This particular means is formidably efficient, since the latter models respectively achieve 30 and 50-day running times. In return, one has to be prepared for a generously sized watch, since housing that many barrels takes space and can beef up watches to a quite outrageous extent. But the best way of sugar-coating the pill of such admittedly large cases is to accompany them with an original and powerful design - which incidentally works out pretty well, since such watches are intended to attract attention…

  • Julien Coudray 1528 - New management

    The Manufacture IMH and Messrs. Fabien and Herve Lamarche have decided by mutual agreement to end their collaboration.
    Mr. Enzo Ide will take over the management of the Manufacture and has since been appointed Managing Director. He is the son of Joris Ide, owner of the group.
    Let us remember that early this year, Joris Ide acquired the Swiss manufacturer of watches IMH and its fine watchmaking brand Julien Coudray 1518, founded in 2007 by Fabien Lamarche.

  • Paul Position - Watches for Valentine's Day

    As florists, parfumiers, jewellery and watch brands (not to mention watch websites!) are keen to remind you, it's Valentine's Day this coming Saturday. But one thing that surprises your editor-in-chief is that all the press releases crossing his desk are for ladies' watches. What about us men?

    I would love to buy a watch for my wife for Valentine's Day, but her tastes do not appear to be taken into account by the majority of watch brands. It may be refreshing (not least for my wallet) that she doesn't like diamonds or mother-of-pearl, but how many ladies' watches avoid this feminine cliche? The answer is very few, as I can confirm from my wife's grumblings as she drags me past countless shop windows to emphasise her point. Maybe she is a glaring exception to feminine tastes in general, but it's something brands might like to think about for the future.

    The man's perspective
    But what about buying the man in your life a watch for Valentine's Day? If only it were as simple as finding one without any diamonds or mother-of-pearl! Above all, your budget will be the determining factor and the starting point for reconciling the dreams of your loved one with the reality of your finances.

    When offering a watch as a token of love, the timepiece needs to suggest an everlasting quality. There needs to be a reassuring feeling of reliability to the piece and a timeless design that can still be looked back on in admiration when you are celebrating your diamond wedding anniversary. Perhaps even a solid case back to allow for that special engraving.

    I obviously get asked a lot for watch recommendations from my friends and I'm always very wary about answering. Aside from the delicate question of budget, which can make or break a decision, a watch remains a very personal item for a man - one that is crammed with emotion and in many cases is the only accessory he will wear.

    That is why I am not illustrating this article with any watches. Instead, I heartily recommend our Watch Finder and its advanced search function. We have over 10,000 different watches in our database, all searchable by price, brand, case shape, case material, diameter, water resistance, movement or even strap. You can click on any watch that grabs your attention to find out more information and links to your nearest stockist.

    Happy hunting!

  • Cvstos - The Cvstos Eiffel seen by...Mr Eiffel

    It was a unique conjunction in watchmaking. While exhibiting the new version of its "Gustave Eiffel" at the Belles Montres trade fair, the brand received a visit from… Mr Philippe Couperie-Eiffel, a direct descendant of the man himself!
    While the two worlds had indeed already collided, notably in developing this unique timepiece paying tribute to the genius of Mr Eiffel, this particular physical encounter was anything but ordinary, since seeing the Eiffel on Mr Eiffel's wrist is no everyday event. WorldTempus grabbed this unique opportunity to capture their vision of each other.

    WorldTempus: What connections do you maintain with the memory of your great-great-grandfather, and therefore with the watch that pays tribute to him?
    Philippe Couperie-Eiffel: The connection? Switzerland! I spent many summers in Vevey at Gustave Eiffel's property. I was very close to his daughter, Valentine, who died when I was 16. I grew up in close and direct contact with Gustave Eiffel, surrounded by his souvenirs, his plans, his splendour. Valentine left me his will, a unique document that also nurtured the writing of my book Eiffel by Eiffel.


    Why did you choose a watch as the symbol of your admiration for him?
    Every part of this great man's history is summed up this object: the mechanics, the precision, Switzerland. In Antonio Terranova, the co-founder of Cvstos, I encountered a very meticulous man. A friend introduced us and I must say I was immediately taken with him. Antonio was very interested in our family and we talked a lot. He understood my motivation to pay tribute to Gustave Eiffel through exceptional objects.

    How were you involved personally in the creation of the piece?
    I went to Cvstos' workshop several times. For example, I wanted to achieve a very light watch. That's what my great-great-grandfather would have wanted. He himself was a pioneer in terms of very open, airy architecture. You can see it clearly in his use of St Andrew's cross on the Tower which bears his name.
    Generally speaking, I didn't get involved in the aesthetics of the piece. I maintained an engineer's perspective, just as Gustave Eiffel would have done. And parallel to this, another constant concern was to create a sustainable object. That is the essential characteristic of my ancestor's work. Nobody truly knows the full scope of his work, which ranges from the Tower to the Panama Canal, through railway lines, bridges, viaducts, railway stations, etc.


    Are you considering other projects of this kind?
    I can't take the liberty of revealing them before discussing such plans with Cvstos! For now, we are presenting a model with a new silver-toned finish. I know what the immediate future holds, but I think you'll have to wait for Baselworld...
    As for me, my primary concern is ensuring that the name of Eiffel is duly preserved and respected. I fought for a long time - and won - against an international BTP group who were using our name in an unauthorised manner (Editor's note: the Eiffage vs Eiffel case, lost by the former in January 2010). It is now protected. Currently, I would like to open a museum in his honour in Vevey, where he lived for a long time, and perhaps even a memorial in Panama. Today, we are 60 direct descendants. I think that it is our duty to undertake activities like this in his memory.

  • Roger Dubuis - Services & support

    In order to ensure that all Roger Dubuis models reach or exceed the most demanding quality standards, all eligible movements are COSC-certified and each timepiece is individually certified with the Hallmark of Geneva, the two certifications being granted by two independent external bodies.

    Manufacture garantee

    Roger Dubuis movements are highly sophisticated mechanisms that have been crafted with absolute care.

    We guarantee your timepiece against any technical compliance flaw as well as any defect resulting from the materials used for a two-year period as of the date of purchase. If your watch were to show any such flaw during this period, we undertake to restore it to working order graciously.

    Maintenance services

    In order to ensure the smooth running of your watch and maintain its precision, it is nonetheless advisable to have a complete service performed every three to four years by an authorised repair or customer service centre. You will receive a one-year guarantee after such a service. 

    When you entrust us with your watch, we first establish a diagnosis. The necessary maintenance operations are then conducted on your timepiece: the movement is entirely taken apart, some components are udpated in order to benefit from the latest technological innovations developed by Roger Dubuis, and the case is meticulously polished.

    Finally, the assembled watch is tested for two to four weeks, depending on its complexity, so as to ensure it is in perfect working order.


    © 

  • Linde Werdelin - The Oktopus Tattoo


    Linde Werdelin, the leading sports watches and attachable instruments manufacturer, is proud to present the latest addition to the Oktopus family to be unveiled at BaselWorld 2010, the Oktopus Tattoo. A true example of art and craftsmanship, the steel case of the Oktopus Tattoo has been fully engraved with an octopus tattoo design especially drawn for the model by Danish tattoo artist Henning Jensen. Powered by a Frederic Piguet movement (calibre 1150) the new Oktopus model also bears distinctive dial details, which add to its unique allure of the LW diver watches.


    Due to the complexity of engraving the tattoo design on the case, a breakdown of the procedure into steps was necessary to ensure that the precision of the design was kept. Using a 5-axis CNC machine, each of the 18 engraved facets of the case had to be treated separately and the machine manually adjusted before each facet being engraved with a precision of 80 nanometres to achieve such a detailed result. Keeping the consistency of the design, the hands on the dial of the Oktopus Tattoo are designed to resemble the tentacles of an octopus and are enhanced with Super LumiNova for a greater effect in the dark or sea depth. The new model has been tested to withstand the pressure of 1111 meters and the integrated helium escape valve at 9 o'clock ensures the watch endures the pressure during resurface time.
    "Choosing the octopus was straightforward for me. I find it incredibly intriguing. It is a great diver, considered to be highly intelligent and moves very elegantly and fast, if needed, partly due to the lack of a skeleton. It is also known to be great in camouflage and has an excellent sense of touch and keen eyesight", says Morten Linde creative director and co-founder of LW.


    The art of tattooing began over 5,000 years ago. It is a diverse form of art symbolising different things for different cultures and people. In some cases, tattoos were seen to have a magical significance or spiritual power, which often meant for guarding people's health and spiritual well-being. Nowadays, the significance of a tattoo has changed form and is seen as a way to express and distinct oneself from others, by decorating their body with a design that often has a special personal meaning.
    In a similar way, the Oktopus Tattoo is a special watch project that aims to form a unique and distinctive bond between the watch and its owner. While a lot of the engraving can be seen on the top of the case, most of the octopus design has been kept for the back-case and personal admiration of the watch owner.
    To maximise the Linde Werdelin sporting experience of the Oktopus Tattoo, LW has designed and created the Reef Tattoo using the same technique as the watch. Instead of an octopus though the Reef bears tattoo engravings or a shark on the top of its anodised aluminium case and a colour drawing of the tattoo design on the opening screen of the instrument.


    "The Oktopus Tattoo is a very special project to me. I see it as a contemporary piece of art for one's wrist, Linde Werdelin's first lifestyle watch where body art meets Haute Horlogerie" notes Morten Linde. Limited to 82 pieces, the Oktopus Tattoo is available to pre-order on LindeWerdelin.com or from any LW authorised retailer.

  • Louis Moinet - Meteoris


    WORLDTEMPUS - 15 January 2010
    Exhibiting at the Geneva Time Exhibition (GTE) from Sunday, Louis Moinet's founder Jean-Marie Schaller will unveil his young brand's very first objet d'art, which includes a set of four unusual tourbillons built into the base.
    Meteoris is the name of the planetarium set uniting several types of meteorites and depicting our solar system in its entirety: all nine planets as well as the earth's moon—created by artist Jean-Yves Kervevan using handmade resins and varnishes—are displayed as they orbit the sun. This is a great technical feat as most planetariums only show a limited number of planets.
    According to Schaller, Meteoris provides a greater understanding of the intricacy of the solar system with a faster speed of rotation, which allows the planets to complete their journeys around the sun in 37 seconds rather than 365 days.
    The circular navy blue scale positioned directly underneath the depiction of the planets indicates each of the planets' positions in relation to the zodiac through which it crosses. This ring-shaped scale sprinkled with gold dust and silver spangles symbolizes the night sky and is decorated with154 "stars" totaling 5.6 ct Top Wesselton VVS diamonds representing various constellations.
    Measuring 1.5 m in height, this work of art originated in the mind of Remy Chauvin, the gear specialist also responsible for the astronomical clock located in the Morteau watch museum. The positioning of the earth and moon even allow for the display of the moon's phases.
    Its large movement driven by a complex set of 40 gear wheels comprises ten coaxial tubes with stainless steel spokes to support the planets and is powered by a micro motor.
    Four whirlwinds
    The planetarium is enhanced by the fascinating vision of four tourbillon wristwatches, one nestling comfortably on each side of the Meteoris's base, and each one embellished with the addition of a rare meteorite stone: Dhofar 459 (moon meteorite), Itqiy (from an asteroid close to the sun), Sahara 99555 (also known as Rosetta Stone, possibly from Mercury), and Jiddat al Harasis 479 (Mars meteorite).
    The hand-wound tourbillon movements manufactured by Concepto are particularly aesthetic, conceived to showcase their technology within the 50-part cases, two of which come in white gold with baguette-cut diamonds and two in rose gold.
    The entire set is unique and will be sold to a collector for a total of 4,900,000 Swiss Francs.

  • Counterfeiting - A global response

    Revue FH - 12 fevrier 2009 - No 3

    In spite of the many efforts made, the problem of counterfeiting and piracy continues to wreak havoc on every economy worldwide, and is expanding rapidly through multiple distribution channels, especially online. Calculations based on Customs seizures show that counterfeits and piracy worldwide amount to US$ 200 billion to 360 billion a year, or 5% to 7% of international trade. Swiss watches are no exception, as the sector is hit full-on by this modern-day plague. The FH estimates that over 40 million fake Swiss watches are made each year (compared with exports of 26 million authentic Swiss watches in 2008) and that they generate net profits of around one billion dollars. This illicit trade, whose main victims are the most prestigious Swiss brands, is equivalent to around 6% of total Swiss watch exports for 2008.
    In this context, it would be naïve to imagine that counterfeiting can be defeated simply by targeting the counterfeiters and their means of production. This wouldn't be such a thriving industry without the individuals who buy fake watches, and who fail to realise the full extent of the damage they cause, in particular in human terms. The priority in the fight against counterfeiting must therefore be to speak directly to these potential customers and have them realise that what they believe is a harmless purchase has serious consequences on companies and nations. Legislative weapons and international measures still lack the impact to defeat this global scourge; hence the customers themselves must realise that wearing a fake luxury watch is empty of meaning.
    Counterfeiters increasingly target internationally renowned Fine Watch brands, whose reputation, capacity for innovation and sales all suffer as a result. These brands must also invest significant amounts in the fight against illicit copies in all their forms and to protect their intellectual property. As counterfeiting continues to spread, an even more serious consequence is the generalised loss of confidence in companies that nevertheless create jobs and added value. At national level, counterfeiting forces governments to invest heavily in the fight against fakes while losing out on tax revenues, and takes away employment opportunities. Finally, the phenomenal amounts of money generated by counterfeiting go on to benefit the mafias, criminal organisations and terrorist groups that reign over this illicit trade, where child labour is commonplace, and health and safety standards are openly flouted.
    Faced with a scourge that undermines companies and countries alike, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie has joined forces with the FH to launch a vast information campaign aimed at the general public. It will take the form of powerful visuals backed by a simple, hard-hitting message: «Fake Watches are for Fake People.» The campaign will be unrolled in the international media that are supporting this initiative. Clearly, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, whose vocation is to defend and promote the values of Fine Watchmaking and its professions, could not stay silent in the face of counterfeiting. The time has come to challenge this plague on innovative, socially-responsible, high-tech businesses. We can no longer stand by and do nothing, so let's say it out loud: «Fake Watches are for Fake People!»

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