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Top Quality Oris Automatic Watches (365) Items
Top Quality Oris Automatic Watches (365) Items

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  • Julien Coudray - The 10 keys to Julien Coudray

    All those acquainted with Julien Coudray 1518, raise their hands! Some may be vaguely aware of the brand name, others of its creations that arrive in sparing quantities on the market, and others may know some of the people behind it. On the whole, however, Julien Coudray 1518 remains somewhat mysterious. WorldTempus raises the veil on ten key elements of the Manufacture.

    1. An integrated - and shared - Manufacture
    Julien Coudray 1518 is a Manufacture that has just reached its fifth anniversary. So how has this integration been achieved so rapidly? Perhaps because like many others, such as Greubel Forsey and its partnership with Complitime, Julien Coudray 1518 operates in tandem with IMH, the technical source of its production. IMH develops and produces for Julien Coudray 1518, but not exclusively so, since the brand has several external clients.

    2. A Swiss-Belgian brand
    In January 2015, Julien Coudray 1518 was entirely taken over by an independent family shareholder of Belgian nationality, Joris Ide (along with his son Enzo), who already owned the Lebeau-Couraly watch brand that informed connoisseurs noticed in Hall 1.1 at Baselworld this year. The two brands operate in parallel in two very distinct segments, but they are both served by the shared IMH production facility.

    3. Snob-free metals
    Julien Coudray 1518 specifically precludes from its production all 'snob' metals in the literal sense of the term - meaning those that are sin nobilitas, lacking nobility, or commonplace. That is why the youthful brand uses only four metals: white, yellow and red gold, as well as platinum.

    4. Watchmaking ingot
    The Manufacture has a very special attribute: all its components are machined from a single one-kilo block of these metals. From this precious ingot, Julien Coudray 1518 carves out the case, hands, as well as many other components that are not made of traditional brass as is generally done in these modern times. In the case of a platinum model, even the bridges are made of platinum.

    5. Bye bye galvano
    Julien Coudray 1518 has proscribed any electroplating surface treatments on its creations. Its range will therefore never comprise any rhodium-plated components. All will instead feature a finish - generally a mirror (or specular) polish - applied to the pure metal surface.

    6. Four years, four references
    Julien Coudray is fond of figures. The brand whose name includes the number 1518 has so far developed and produced four models: the 1515, 1528, 1548 and 1588. Contrary to appearances, these do not refer to dates, but to a century (the 16th) followed by the number of watches to be produced for each reference concerned. The 1515 is thus issued in a 15-piece edition, the 1528 in a 28-piece series, etc. Since Julien Coudray produces only one or two watches per month, this road map will take the firm until at least 2020!

    7. Extremely vertical integration
    Julien Coudray regroups 30 people exercising 40 different professions, most of which exist individually in traditional Manufactures. Very few however - or in fact none at all - can lay claim to such a ratio between a very small number of employees and an impressively broad range of skills.

    8. Boundless tradition
    This is a deliberate policy and is observed to the letter: Julien Coudray 1518 honours watchmaking traditions by refusing to use any modern or high-tech materials. By way of example, despite the incomparable breakthrough technological advantages afforded by silicon, the latter finds no place in a Julien Coudray watch movement - or at any rate not for at least a century… until the material itself becomes part of tradition!

    9. Horological oil change
    Julien Coudray 1518 watches are currently the only models to feature a service indicator in the form of an oil drop appearing through an aperture at 12 o'clock and gradually disappearing after four years as a reminder that it's time for a maintenance service.

    10. Two of everything
    Julien Coudray 1518 produces a kit of spare parts for each watch sold. Each numbered kit is stored in a safe and can be used when components need to be replaced in 20, 50, 100 or more years' time!

  • Richard Mille - RM 039: The chronograph that is not short on superlatives

    The most complicated Richard Mille watch to date, the RM 039 is a horological monument as is apparent at first glance. With this giant-sized model, functionality has been taken to the highest heights of micromechanical engineering. The 50mm-diameter, 19.4mm thick movement houses the most sophisticated Richard Mille movement. A few figures give an idea of the magnitude of this phenomenon. It has eight hands and three apertures - without being a perpetual calendar. It is operated via five pushers and a crown - all of which are active pushpieces and not merely correctors, and yet it is not a striking model. Despite its 1,000 components, the manual-winding RM039 calibre is not endowed with 14 or 22 horological complications as one might expect, but actually has 'only' eight. So what is the source of such complexity?

    It certainly does not stem from the UTC function (the official name of what is still often referred to as GMT), nor from its large date. The crux of the matter lies in the chronograph, and not even so much because it is of the flyback variety. The determining factor is the presence of a countdown mechanism that is an extremely rare feature on mechanical timepieces. The pusher at 9 o'clock serves to switch from chronograph to countdown mode by activating the 8 o'clock dial aperture. The 4 o'clock pusher shifts the red-tipped chronograph minutes hand and the countdown can then be started, stopped and zero-reset like the chronograph with its built-in flyback function. The RM 039 is the only watch to boast such a mode of operation that is largely responsible for the high number of components (as well as for the line of zeroes on the price tag).

    In addition to this standout chronograph, the RM 039 is endowed with properties that have become signatures of the Richard Mille identity: a tourbillon, a function selector, along with exceptionally high-quality hand finishing despite the technical appearance of the calibre. Above all, it features a stunning degree of graphic skeleton work. Despite their large numbers, all components have been hollowed out in the centre at least once in order to create a lighter effect both visually and weight-wise. The baseplate is made of titanium in pursuit of these same objectives, while also ensuring the degree of rigidity that is indispensable in a construction this big, this high and comprises this many openings.

    So exactly what kind of functions is such a machine dedicated to driving? The evocative full name of the RM 039 Tourbillon Aviation E6-B Flyback Chronograph clearly hints at the fact that two of its characteristics are dedicated to pilots. The flyback chronograph was invented for aviators using timing operations to perform in-flight calculations. Resetting to zero without having first to stop the mechanism saves milliseconds that can make all the difference between arriving safely or getting lost when navigating using instruments. Speaking of which, the RM 039 does in fact have an instrument specially designed for pilots, the E6-B slide rule. Also known as a flight calculator, it is an elaborate version of the slide rule found on a number of pilot's watches. The seven scales on the watch - including a tachymetric one and two on the vertical part of the bezel - provide a whole host of calculation options. Unit conversions, multiplications and divisions, as well as determining ground speed, fuel consumption, ascent speed and other vital data can be calculated in case the onboard electronics break down. All of which still raises the problem inherent in every slide rule: even having once grasped how they work, you have to use them regularly in order to memorise how they work.

    The case matches this impressive complexity. Being made from titanium prevents this juggernaut from tipping the scales at more than 400 grams - a weight it would doubtless have reached if it had been in steel, not to mention gold. Its volumes, curves, satin-finishing and bevelling are so complex that the case alone calls for a full day of quality control, in addition to hundreds of hours of machining. The result is a model priced at more than one million Swiss francs. Fortunately, Richard Mille did not add into the mix its other favourite complication, the split-second mechanism, since that would have made the movement 3mm thicker and further bulked up the cost. But split-second chronographs are not useful to pilots and thus have no place here.

  • Chaumet - Class One reborn as an art piece

    The new Class One will be officially presented next March 11 at the Chaumet boutique located at 12, Place Vendôme, where the Maison will also host a three-week-long exhibition of Cecchini's work.

    It is the first time Chaumet has collaborated with a living artist in designing a timepiece. According to the house, this may be the beginning of future ventures with contemporary artists.The result is a fresh makeover for Chaumet's sporty Class One, one that combines precious and industrial materials like mother-of-pearl, steel and diamonds for a modern yet luxurious new look in a monochromatic finish.

    Cecchini, an Italian artist based in Berlin, is a multi-disciplinarian who has produced photography, sculpture, drawings and installations in which he experiments with forms, producing poetic alterations of ordinary objects. His sculptural pieces create a distorted reality by replicating wave ripples or shockwaves onto a flat rigid surface, playing with the notion of ambiguity in visual perception.

    "We had a wonderful encounter with Loris Cecchini whose work was known within the LVMH group," explained the Maison Chaumet, itself a part of the LVMH group of companies. "Our president, Thierry Fritsch, who is a connoisseur of contemporary art, selected this artist for the project."

    In 2012, Cecchini had participated in a group show titled "Turbulences" at the Espace Culturel Louis Vuitton in Paris where his piece titled Gaps (Airborne), a low relief sculpture made of painted resin, evoked organic forms bursting out of the wall. The idea, according to Cecchini, was to convey the notion of fluidity directly onto the wall and to play with architecture while challenging established notions of sculpture.

    In his subsequent Wallwave Vibration series, Cecchini experimented with organic transfiguration, exploring the possibilities of visual distortion and ethereal forms with a series of wall pieces that reproduced the visual patterns of shock or water waves. Wallwave Vibration, the installation that served as inspiration for the redesign of the Class One, and Waterbones, a suspension of steel metal modules, will both be shown next month at the Chaumet boutique.

    "I work as a designer first, drawing and using industrial processes, and then I use traditional processes of sculpture. I want the space around the creation to be a continuity of a mirage, somewhere between illusion and reality, abstraction and usefulness, fantasy and materiality," Cecchini said.

    What resonated with the Maison Chaumet were three elements in Cecchini's artistic process, namely his powerful graphic design, his use of industrial materials and his fascination with water, all elements found in Chaumet's own stylistic vernacular.

    Cecchini, for whom watch design was unchartered territory, has created a work of art reduced to the size of a wearable timepiece. He was given carte blanche by Chaumet, subject only to certain technical constraints including the thickness of the dial, the weight of the materials and the diameter of the working surface.

    Taking elements from his Wallwave Vibration series, Cecchini has designed a split-level dial that appears to vibrate as with sand sprinkled on the surface of water. "The volume and light reflections of water come to life on the dial, adorned with lace-like mother-of-pearl and a satin-finished, sunburst-effect background," explained the Maison Chaumet.  
    The rippling effects extend beyond the confines of the dial, overlapping playfully onto the white calfskin bracelet. The stainless steel case is set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds. The artist also created a sculpted removable casing for the watch's white box, an object that stands alone as a sculpture.  

  • Review - What you might have missed last month

    We hope that you are up-to-date with all the launches from this year's SIHH thanks to the comprehensive dossier that WorldTempus published, including over 50 news items during the week of the show itself.

    Amidst the bustle of the SIHH and the outcry over the Swiss National Bank's decision to stop propping up euro's exchange rate with the Swiss franc (see the open letter from H. Moser & Cie's CEO Edouard Meylan and our analysis, some of the smaller independent brands were grabbing headlines thanks to their creativity. De Grisogono, for example, presented a seasonal offering that was neither jewellery nor watch but a high-end pair of skis developed in conjunction with the Rossignol racing department.

    Meanwhile, Pierce Brosnan, who through his role as James Bond had previously been associated with one of the industry's biggest brands, became the new ambassador for… Speake-Marin. It's a relationship that grew out of a true friendship that blossomed when Peter Speake-Marin acted as a consultant for a film in which Pierce Brosnan plays a watchmaker.

    The industry takeover news last month came not from Switzerland, or even from France, but from Belgium. Joris Ide acquired valuable movement production capabilities with the purchase of Innovations Manufactures Horlogeres SA (IMH), based in Le Locle. The Julien Coudray 1518 brand was part of the deal and will continue as a niche operation, but Mr Ide has plans to use this new production capacity for developing his own Lebeau-Courally watch brand.

    Even in these uncertain times, Swiss watchmaking capacity seems to be a sure investment.

  • Backes & Strauss - iPad and iPhone App


    The application allows the visitor to explore the full range of timepieces, the main collections, and catch up on the Backes & Strauss' latest news and events. It also includes various features about the brand and its diamond heritage.
    Yet, the main feature of the app is 'The Watch Creator'. With it, users are invited to create their own Backes & Strauss timepiece by choosing every element of their dream watch: the case, the diamond setting, the dial and numerals, and last but not least the colour of the strap.
    Once finished the visual of the unique Backes & Strauss timepiece can be shared via e mail, or with their nearest Backes & Strauss authorised retailer... or just deleted, to put an end to the dream!
    Backes & Strauss on iTunes

  • Les Ambassadeurs - Döttling arrives in the boutiques

    When German manufacturer Döttling, a leading specialist in safes, launched its Colosimo model, Les Ambassadeurs immediately saw the potential synergies between the two design houses: a love of mechanical beauty and watchmaking, an attention to detail and quality finishes and an underlying desire for security.
    The smallest safe in history, the Colosimo owes its name to a notorious gangster who terrorised the USA during Prohibition. A miniature replica of the safes in use during that time, the Colosimo is fitted with a circular door and 16 mechanical locking bolts which work independently of one another. Finished in leather-covered steel, it can be also be fitted with a precision watch-winder for keeping both timepieces and other valuables safe. Colosimo, where safety meets beauty.


  • Roger Dubuis - Services & support

    In order to ensure that all Roger Dubuis models reach or exceed the most demanding quality standards, all eligible movements are COSC-certified and each timepiece is individually certified with the Hallmark of Geneva, the two certifications being granted by two independent external bodies.

    Manufacture garantee

    Roger Dubuis movements are highly sophisticated mechanisms that have been crafted with absolute care.

    We guarantee your timepiece against any technical compliance flaw as well as any defect resulting from the materials used for a two-year period as of the date of purchase. If your watch were to show any such flaw during this period, we undertake to restore it to working order graciously.

    Maintenance services

    In order to ensure the smooth running of your watch and maintain its precision, it is nonetheless advisable to have a complete service performed every three to four years by an authorised repair or customer service centre. You will receive a one-year guarantee after such a service. 

    When you entrust us with your watch, we first establish a diagnosis. The necessary maintenance operations are then conducted on your timepiece: the movement is entirely taken apart, some components are udpated in order to benefit from the latest technological innovations developed by Roger Dubuis, and the case is meticulously polished.

    Finally, the assembled watch is tested for two to four weeks, depending on its complexity, so as to ensure it is in perfect working order.


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  • Louis Moinet - Meteoris


    WORLDTEMPUS - 15 January 2010
    Exhibiting at the Geneva Time Exhibition (GTE) from Sunday, Louis Moinet's founder Jean-Marie Schaller will unveil his young brand's very first objet d'art, which includes a set of four unusual tourbillons built into the base.
    Meteoris is the name of the planetarium set uniting several types of meteorites and depicting our solar system in its entirety: all nine planets as well as the earth's moon—created by artist Jean-Yves Kervevan using handmade resins and varnishes—are displayed as they orbit the sun. This is a great technical feat as most planetariums only show a limited number of planets.
    According to Schaller, Meteoris provides a greater understanding of the intricacy of the solar system with a faster speed of rotation, which allows the planets to complete their journeys around the sun in 37 seconds rather than 365 days.
    The circular navy blue scale positioned directly underneath the depiction of the planets indicates each of the planets' positions in relation to the zodiac through which it crosses. This ring-shaped scale sprinkled with gold dust and silver spangles symbolizes the night sky and is decorated with154 "stars" totaling 5.6 ct Top Wesselton VVS diamonds representing various constellations.
    Measuring 1.5 m in height, this work of art originated in the mind of Remy Chauvin, the gear specialist also responsible for the astronomical clock located in the Morteau watch museum. The positioning of the earth and moon even allow for the display of the moon's phases.
    Its large movement driven by a complex set of 40 gear wheels comprises ten coaxial tubes with stainless steel spokes to support the planets and is powered by a micro motor.
    Four whirlwinds
    The planetarium is enhanced by the fascinating vision of four tourbillon wristwatches, one nestling comfortably on each side of the Meteoris's base, and each one embellished with the addition of a rare meteorite stone: Dhofar 459 (moon meteorite), Itqiy (from an asteroid close to the sun), Sahara 99555 (also known as Rosetta Stone, possibly from Mercury), and Jiddat al Harasis 479 (Mars meteorite).
    The hand-wound tourbillon movements manufactured by Concepto are particularly aesthetic, conceived to showcase their technology within the 50-part cases, two of which come in white gold with baguette-cut diamonds and two in rose gold.
    The entire set is unique and will be sold to a collector for a total of 4,900,000 Swiss Francs.

  • De Grisogono - An Autumn in brown...

    Silky soft, warm, voluptuous, discreet sophistication, Browny Brown Gold… an original way to wear gold. Fawaz Gruosi explores new horizons in the world of precious metals. To create its Browny Brown Gold, de GRISOGONO applies a unique process based on the well-known PVD principle (Physical Vaporisation and Deposition). The magic and alchemy of the metamorphosis of gold do the rest…

    Instrumento Novantatre N08

    • Watch in Browny Brown Gold
    • Automatic movement
    • Annual calendar
    • Brown dial with date and month windows, small second, Arabic numerals and hands in polished 18K pink gold
    • Dark brown alligator strap with a de GRISOGONO butterfly buckle in Browny Brown Gold
    • Sapphire glass front and case back
    • Crown with de GRISOGONO crest
    • Water-resistant up to 30 metersInstrumento Tondo RM S58

    • Watch in Browny Brown Gold set with 545 brown diamonds and orange sapphires of 7.47 carats
    • Automatic movement
    • Power reserve, 24-hours second time zone
    • Caramel guilloche dial set with 39 brown diamonds and orange sapphires of 0.09 carat, polished 18K pink gold Arabic numerals
    • Light brown galuchat strap with a de GRISOGONO butterfly buckle in Browny Brown Gold
    • Sapphire glass front and case back
    • Crown set with a black diamond
    • Water-resistant up to 30 meters

Oris Automatic

Each part of the Oris Automatic watches is in perfect condition that gave the watch a outstanding effect. This youthfulness today is captured in the replica watches. Watches provide insight about the character of the individual including aesthetics, complications, material, movement, simplicity, strength, refinement, etc. That is why it is important to select a watch that matches your own personality. Each point of the Oris Automatic watches is made perfectly and each watch comes in good condition.