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Top Quality Oris Automatic Watches (365) Items
Top Quality Oris Automatic Watches (365) Items

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  • Louis Moinet - SIAR

    The event offers a unique opportunity to discover the latest collections from Louis Moinet, which will be unveiled for the first time in Mexico. Louis Moinet team will be making the trip to reveal the brand's newest timepieces and meet with fine watchmaking enthusiasts and media representatives.

    Among the timepieces presented for the first time, the Memoris will take center stage. Unveiled at the start of the year, the Memoris 'chronograph watch' was recently nominated for the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve, in the chronograph category. Other features will include the Sapphire Tourbillon and the 20-Second Tempograph.

    It will be flanked by the Tempograph 20-Second, The timepiece features a large central retrograde second hand. With a continuous twenty-second sweep, it brings the dial to life in a unique manner - a direct nod to the automatons from the Enlightenment era of watchmaking, when Louis Moinet himself was creating his finest timepieces and grandest clocks.

  • Louis Moinet - Memoris chronograph-watch

    Barely ten years in the business, the revived Louis Moinet brand faced an incredible challenge after the surprise discovery just two years ago that the famous watchmaker after whom the brand is named had actually invented the first chronograph in 1815, predating Adolphe Nicole's patent of 1862 by nearly a half a century. Not only had Moinet produced the stopwatch far ahead of its time, he had also created one that operated at a frequency that even today is unimaginable. The device was called a "compteur de tierce", since a "tierce" in the French of the time meant one sixtieth of a second. To measure this, the world's first chronograph operated at 216,000 vibrations per hour, or a frequency of 10 Hz.

    But back to the challenge: The horological world, and Louis Moinet, celebrate the bi-centenary of the invention this year and in just two years the brand had to come up with something that would celebrate its tenth anniversary and do justice to its newly discovered watchmaking heritage. The result is the Memoris, the world's first "chronograph-watch". Put simply, it turns the usual chronograph movement configuration on its head: the chronograph functions are housed on top of the movement mainplate and the timekeeping elements effectively become a "complication" hidden beneath them.

    The chronograph deconstructed
    The fact that Louis Moinet has given pride of place to the chronograph mechanism means that its workings are laid bare and can be admired in all their detail, without any elements of the timekeeping functions obstructing them. At the heart of the chronograph is a column wheel, which is the most essential of the 147 components of the chronograph mechanism (which in turn account for almost half of the 302 components in the watch). The column wheel is the central processor of the mechanism, translating the movement from each press on the monopusher into a rotation that either blocks or releases the components interacting with it (minute hammer, brake and clutch).

    Just as the column wheel is traditionally the sign of a superior chronograph, Louis Moinet believes that tradition also dictates that all three functions (stop, start and reset) should be activated by a single pushbutton, which is found at 2 o'clock on the case. Not wishing to push things to the extremes of the compteur des tierce and the headache that would cause for the power reserve, Louis Moinet has coupled its unique chronograph to a 4 Hz movement in its LM54 calibre, which offers 48 hours of power reserve and offers its own signature feature.

    Energie Plus
    Louis Moinet has devised its own automatic pawl winding system to get the most out of each swing of the oscillating mass. "Energie Plus" () consists of an excentric plate with two click levers in a "crab-claw" design and captures the movements of the oscillating mass in both directions to transmit 30% more energy to the barrel spring than a conventional self-winding system. Furthermore ultra-lightweight miniature ceramic ball bearings, each with a diameter of just 0.397mm, allow the bi-metallic oscillating mass to swing more freely and thus further improve the energy transmission.

    From scratch
    To house all 302 components of this movement, Louis Moinet redeveloped practically every element of what is known in French as the "habillage", in other words everything that "clothes" the movement. As such the case, hands, dial, oscillating weight and even the foldover clasp are new. The gold case alone consists of 52 individual components and includes a screw-on transparent case back, screwed-in black zircon settings on all four lugs and a patent pending crown protector.

    Only 180 of the memorable Memoris chronograph-watches will be made, 60 in 18-carat red gold, 60 in 18-carat white gold with a rhodium-plated mainplate and 60 in 18-carat white gold with a blued mainplate.

  • Richard Mille - RM 039: The chronograph that is not short on superlatives

    The most complicated Richard Mille watch to date, the RM 039 is a horological monument as is apparent at first glance. With this giant-sized model, functionality has been taken to the highest heights of micromechanical engineering. The 50mm-diameter, 19.4mm thick movement houses the most sophisticated Richard Mille movement. A few figures give an idea of the magnitude of this phenomenon. It has eight hands and three apertures - without being a perpetual calendar. It is operated via five pushers and a crown - all of which are active pushpieces and not merely correctors, and yet it is not a striking model. Despite its 1,000 components, the manual-winding RM039 calibre is not endowed with 14 or 22 horological complications as one might expect, but actually has 'only' eight. So what is the source of such complexity?

    It certainly does not stem from the UTC function (the official name of what is still often referred to as GMT), nor from its large date. The crux of the matter lies in the chronograph, and not even so much because it is of the flyback variety. The determining factor is the presence of a countdown mechanism that is an extremely rare feature on mechanical timepieces. The pusher at 9 o'clock serves to switch from chronograph to countdown mode by activating the 8 o'clock dial aperture. The 4 o'clock pusher shifts the red-tipped chronograph minutes hand and the countdown can then be started, stopped and zero-reset like the chronograph with its built-in flyback function. The RM 039 is the only watch to boast such a mode of operation that is largely responsible for the high number of components (as well as for the line of zeroes on the price tag).

    In addition to this standout chronograph, the RM 039 is endowed with properties that have become signatures of the Richard Mille identity: a tourbillon, a function selector, along with exceptionally high-quality hand finishing despite the technical appearance of the calibre. Above all, it features a stunning degree of graphic skeleton work. Despite their large numbers, all components have been hollowed out in the centre at least once in order to create a lighter effect both visually and weight-wise. The baseplate is made of titanium in pursuit of these same objectives, while also ensuring the degree of rigidity that is indispensable in a construction this big, this high and comprises this many openings.

    So exactly what kind of functions is such a machine dedicated to driving? The evocative full name of the RM 039 Tourbillon Aviation E6-B Flyback Chronograph clearly hints at the fact that two of its characteristics are dedicated to pilots. The flyback chronograph was invented for aviators using timing operations to perform in-flight calculations. Resetting to zero without having first to stop the mechanism saves milliseconds that can make all the difference between arriving safely or getting lost when navigating using instruments. Speaking of which, the RM 039 does in fact have an instrument specially designed for pilots, the E6-B slide rule. Also known as a flight calculator, it is an elaborate version of the slide rule found on a number of pilot's watches. The seven scales on the watch - including a tachymetric one and two on the vertical part of the bezel - provide a whole host of calculation options. Unit conversions, multiplications and divisions, as well as determining ground speed, fuel consumption, ascent speed and other vital data can be calculated in case the onboard electronics break down. All of which still raises the problem inherent in every slide rule: even having once grasped how they work, you have to use them regularly in order to memorise how they work.

    The case matches this impressive complexity. Being made from titanium prevents this juggernaut from tipping the scales at more than 400 grams - a weight it would doubtless have reached if it had been in steel, not to mention gold. Its volumes, curves, satin-finishing and bevelling are so complex that the case alone calls for a full day of quality control, in addition to hundreds of hours of machining. The result is a model priced at more than one million Swiss francs. Fortunately, Richard Mille did not add into the mix its other favourite complication, the split-second mechanism, since that would have made the movement 3mm thicker and further bulked up the cost. But split-second chronographs are not useful to pilots and thus have no place here.

  • Hautlence - Destination 01 in Paris

    In 2013, HAUTLENCE unveiled the first line under the "Signature" label, Destination. This line is now available from all the brand's authorised points of sale. Destination is designed to appeal to cosmopolitan individuals by offering them the brand's first ever dual-time complication.

    To present the three first models in this line, Hautlence invites you on an original, surprising and unusual world tour. A snapshot taken during a stopover in an enchanting, must-see or sometimes unusual destination will showcase Destination timepieces on enthusiasts' wrists.

    First stopover: Paris, for a photoshoot at the Pershing Hall done and told by Luxury Design and featuring the Destination 01 timepiece.

  • Les Ambassadeurs - Döttling arrives in the boutiques

    When German manufacturer Döttling, a leading specialist in safes, launched its Colosimo model, Les Ambassadeurs immediately saw the potential synergies between the two design houses: a love of mechanical beauty and watchmaking, an attention to detail and quality finishes and an underlying desire for security.
    The smallest safe in history, the Colosimo owes its name to a notorious gangster who terrorised the USA during Prohibition. A miniature replica of the safes in use during that time, the Colosimo is fitted with a circular door and 16 mechanical locking bolts which work independently of one another. Finished in leather-covered steel, it can be also be fitted with a precision watch-winder for keeping both timepieces and other valuables safe. Colosimo, where safety meets beauty.


  • Dietlin - The Watchzoomer



     
    From November 8 to 10, Laurent Ferrier watches were presented in an original display window at the Saatchi Gallery. The window is equipped with a mobile magnifying glass showing watchmaking details that are invisible to the naked eye. Laurent Ferrier enjoyed the exclusive benefit of new exhibition technology that matches its own expertise.
    Laurent Ferrier is an ideal partner for Watchzoomer, a new tool developed by Dietlin Artisans Metalliers, the author of a great number of innovative concepts in the watchmaking world. The refined details of a Laurent Ferrier watch deserve a setting that allows visitors to discover all the subtleties of an exceptional timepiece. This is the reason that the Geneva brand has partnered with the man behind a number of exceptional display windows - Xavier Dietlin.


    The Watchzoomer concept that combines the watchmaker's famous traditional eyeglass or loupe with a linear displacement mechanism. For the first time, a magnifying glass is motorised. It appears, disappears, moving to and fro in front of the product, making it possible to "zoom" like one would with a camera. However, the human eye well and truly remains in charge of the exploration, with nothing interfering with its view.
    The movement of the loupe is synchronised with the watch which rotates, allowing a 360° view: a detail on the crown, the back of the watch, a wide-angle of the tourbillon cage etc. Additional scenography shows video extracts, photographs of details and tailor-made lighting in relation to the positioning of the magnifying glass. Like all concepts created by the Dietlin workshop, this magnifying mechanism is interactive and can be turned on "on request". 


    Olivier Muller, CEO of Laurent Ferrier, emphasises the avant-garde aspect of the concept: "I liked the Watchzoomer idea from the start. We take the same approach to our watchmaking concepts -adapting past codes to suit our desire for innovation. Additionally, our watches need to be seen in all their subtlety. The Watchzoomer brilliantly fulfils this mission. It emphasises the exceptional aspect of our timepieces through this setting."
    Says Xavier Dietlin, CEO, Dietlin Artisans Metalliers: "I had wanted to work with the magnifying glass for a long time. I am very happy that a concept like the Watchzoomer has had such a positive reception in the world of Fine Watchmaking. It's basically a very simple idea, but it requires skill and complicated mechanics. This paves the way for new applications in Fine Watchmaking." Watch this space...

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