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  • Newsletter - Help us celebrate a milestone this Thursday

    All eyes at our sister magazine GMT are focused on Thursday 15th October, when the publication will celebrate its 15th anniversary at a special party organized at the HEAD (Geneva University of Art and Design) in conjunction with the Geneva DS Store. It will be a chance to look back over 15 years of watch news, the institutionalization of the 12th art pioneered by the magazine, as well as a chance to look to the future (in particular to WorldTempus's own 15th anniversary celebrations next year).

    By coincidence, the 15th of October has also been chosen by three brands sharing the same letter of the alphabet for some significant announcements. As the vagueness suggests, we cannot say anything more at the moment, but in addition to our retrospective on GMT magazine on Thursday, there will also be lots of other exciting news on the site on the same day.

    But since WorldTempus publishes seven days a week, 365 days a year, there will be plenty of news every day this week, too, including the 150th anniversary of music-box manufacturer Reuge, a focus on the Louis Moinet Memoris chronograph and the continuation of our series of round tables analyzing the pre-selected watches in the GPHG 2015.

  • Vulcain Trophy - Partnership with Heiner Lauterbach

    As a watch connoisseur, Heiner Lauterbach has a cultivated sense of technical details, high-quality workmanship and harmonious design. His credo is a perfect fit for the Le Locle-based manufactory, a company dedicated to maintaining the tradition of watchmaking as well as appreciation of luxury, engineering and design. Vulcain - a brand in whose grand tradition the "chirping cricket", the unmistakable sound of the mechanical wristwatch alarm, plays a major role. In 1947, the manufactory presented the first truly functional wristwatch alarm in the world, equipped with the now legendary Cricket calibre. The alarm clock was finally called simply the "President's Watch" because Truman, Eisenhower, Nixon and Johnson all placed their trust in it. The in-house designers are constantly expanding the refined collection, without losing sight of the company's history. Heiner Lauterbach - a multifaceted actor, family man and worldly bon vivant. A native of Cologne, he was acting on the stage at just 19 years old. His breakthrough came in 1985 with Doris Dörrie's hit comedy "Männer". This was followed by other films as well as numerous TV series and movies. He has also done notable work on the stage and as a director. Lauterbach is always looking for a new challenge. He doesn't let himself be pigeonholed; instead he is always surprising his audiences with new and different roles. He is aided in this by his many years of experience, which have given him a certain equanimity. Heiner Lauterbach's collection already includes the Vulcain Heritage Model of the Monopusher Chronograph from the 50s President's Watch line. Vulcain is enriched by this opportunity to collaborate with the actor and to find inspiration in his ideas.

  • Roger Dubuis - Services & support

    In order to ensure that all Roger Dubuis models reach or exceed the most demanding quality standards, all eligible movements are COSC-certified and each timepiece is individually certified with the Hallmark of Geneva, the two certifications being granted by two independent external bodies.

    Manufacture garantee

    Roger Dubuis movements are highly sophisticated mechanisms that have been crafted with absolute care.

    We guarantee your timepiece against any technical compliance flaw as well as any defect resulting from the materials used for a two-year period as of the date of purchase. If your watch were to show any such flaw during this period, we undertake to restore it to working order graciously.

    Maintenance services

    In order to ensure the smooth running of your watch and maintain its precision, it is nonetheless advisable to have a complete service performed every three to four years by an authorised repair or customer service centre. You will receive a one-year guarantee after such a service. 

    When you entrust us with your watch, we first establish a diagnosis. The necessary maintenance operations are then conducted on your timepiece: the movement is entirely taken apart, some components are udpated in order to benefit from the latest technological innovations developed by Roger Dubuis, and the case is meticulously polished.

    Finally, the assembled watch is tested for two to four weeks, depending on its complexity, so as to ensure it is in perfect working order.


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  • Bertolucci - Bella Costa


    In its Casual Chic universe, Bertolucci pioneers creations where the 4 "Cs" - the very essence of the brand - feature fully: Creativity, Curves, Comfort and Construction. The Italian Riviera, a source of ceaseless inspiration, and Switzerland, the technical expert, mingle and interweave to design new silhouettes playing with the softness of curves and the elegance of lines. Well-being is highlighted in designs which combine comfort and harmony, to be worn as daily luxury. Classic yet subtlety unique, the Casual Chic models marry simplicity and modernity to match any moment and mood of the day.
    With Bella Costa, Bertolucci highlights the Sport side of its Casual Chic universe and offers a collection with a chic and functional look, positioned at an affordable price to attract all free spirits out there as well as the younger generation. An enrichment of this product universe, which Bertolucci simply had to explore in order to develop it according to your desires of leisure and relaxation.


    The new Casual Chic Sport world lays emphasis on a b look, practical and comfortable, with a touch of distinction to accompany elegantly your active wear and sportive moods.
    A year after being launched, Bella Costa imposes its chic and sportive line by dressing up with new calibres, new finishing and a new metal bracelet.
    Its steel case, artfully animated with an off-centered opening, protects new functions: the 3 central hands are enriched with the choice of either a Day-Date option or a second time zone with a big date. The time reading evolves on an original gradation of Arabic figures, echoing the sporty asymmetric bezel.


    Easy-to-wear, easy-to-use, the models Bella Costa play with various executions to match all consumer's styles and envies: in fine-brushed steel & black PVD to reinforce its sporty side, in All Black version, resolutely modern and masculine, or adorning a bezel set with more than 60 diamonds for women, seeking to accessorise their active wear with a touch of elegance.
    Mounted on a 3-row metal bracelet bringing comfort and resistance in a daily wearing, BELLA COSTA will become the ultimate accessory of your precious timeless moments of freedom and relaxation.


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  • FHH - Fine Watchmaking rethinks its future



    What are luxury's values? Has Swiss watchmaking put economic crisis behind it? How does it reconcile the Internet revolution with its traditional approach to communication and distribution? So many questions and so many challenges for a profession whose leading figures met on April 29th in Geneva at the 2nd Forum de la Haute Horlogerie, organised by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) on the theme, Time to Rethink. After 18 months of crosswinds which have left their mark on Switzerland's third-largest export industry, the good news first. Yes, the economic recovery is gaining traction, commented Remy Bersier, member of the Bank Julius Baer Executive Board, and is pulling the watch sector with it, as export figures for March 2010 confirm (+33%). Yes, luxury will always exist. It is, in the view of Vincent Bastien, assistant professor at HEC Paris, "consubstantial to Man" and, as Valery Giscard d'Estaing, former President of France, observed, the uppermost layer of economic activity, an expression of creative genius and a concentration of culture. Yes, Swiss timepieces are symbols of excellence, the work of a "bunch of maniacs," in the tongue-in-cheek words of the photographer Oliviero Toscani.


    The digital explosion
    This good news should not, however, mask the new paradigms of a changing world, particularly the role now played by the Internet and fast-growing social networks. "We're in the middle of a digital explosion," commented Frank Vivier, CEO of Columbus Venture Capital. "Internet is destroying traditional business models. Without an adequate response to what was, just a few years ago, viewed as an enemy; without a convergence of the virtual and material worlds, brands will get left behind." Not everyone is concerned about this development taking place alongside traditional distribution networks. For François-Paul Journe, e-commerce is "unthinkable and completely incompatible with my way of working. Personal customer relationships are part of luxury and something our margins must allow."
    This is all the more true as collectors, Fine Watchmaking's foremost customers, are so many unique individuals with their own motivations, seeking intrinsic values, according to Thomas Mao, creator of ThePuristS.com, "which doesn't rule out using the Internet to get to know them better. They are potentially brands' best friends, thanks to the enthusiasm they can spread across the web. They can be their worst enemies too, if the product lacks integrity." This integrity, declared the author Paulo Coelho, must express itself through an honest and loyal approach that reflects the designer's soul.


    Motivating factors
    There are lessons to be learned from last year's crisis, as the writer Nick Foulkes pointed out: "not so much because of the crisis itself but for the decadence that came before it." Barely concealed by this arrogance were the difficulties encountered in production. As the economy recovers, will the same problems return, sparked by a shortfall in parts and movements? "If watchmaking is to lack a million movements in the more or less short term, this could be a good sign," commented Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of Hublot. "An additional motivation and proof that the luxury industry still has huge potential, infinite potential even in capitalist societies such as ours that create purchasing power."


    "More audacity, less arrogance," summarised Franco Cologni, President of the FHH, in the face of what Pierre-François Unger, Geneva State Councillor in charge of the economy, referred to as "the terrorism of the instantaneous" that destroys values. Fine Watchmaking, which has overcome crises, wars and revolutions during its 250 year history, is on the cusp of a new century of change… availing itself of its assets as a "conferee of creation"!

  • INDUSTRIE - A family business with the Midas touch


    Revue FH - 4 June 2009


    Founded in 1919, the business run by Louis Affolter, a native of Malleray, was entered in the trade register in January 1927 under the name «Louis Affolter, manufacturer of pinions and pivoting of all kinds». In 1946, his sons Andre, Rene and Marc took over the reins of the firm which became «Les Fils de Louis Affolter». The company became «Pignons Affolter SA» in 1978 and, in 2004, it changed its name again to become «Affolter Pignons SA». Marc's three sons, Marc-Alain, Jean-Claude and Michel Affolter, representing the third generation, were handed the baton in 1985. Each has a well-defined role: Marc-Alain is at the head of Affolter Technologies SA, formerly Affolter Electroniques SA, established in 1991; Affolter Pignons SA is run by Jean-Claude (engineering) and Michel (sales and production). To allow sister companies to focus on their core activities, namely the development, manufacture and sale of products, the management company AFManagement SA was created in 2004. It is run by Nicolas Curty, the husband of Melanie, Marc-Alain's daughter. And so the fourth generation is already playing its part! The Affolter group occupies three industrial buildings in Malleray, with a total floor space of 7,800 m2. It employs around 170 people: 110 at Affolter Pignons, 50 at Affolter Technologies and 10 at AFManagement.
    The company Affolter China, in Shanghai, completes the picture. Affolter Pignons produces 15 million parts annually with the help of more than 200 machines. This production is intended solely for the watch industry. Prestige and top-end products account for 80% of production, with the remaining 20% categorised as the middle of the range. The firm's customers include some of the greatest names in watchmaking. Wheels for the luxury watch industry are produced on machines developed entirely in-house. The latter are used for all machining operations, including the bevelling of arms, sinking and circular graining. The burnishing workshop - burnishing gives a piece its final dimensions and considerably improves the surface finish of pinions - is one of the largest, if not the largest, with 75 highly sophisticated machines.


    Established as an offshoot of the development department of Affolter Pignons, Affolter Technologies manufactures high-tech machines used not only in the watch industry, but also in the medical and dental industries and micro-engineering. The development of motorised spindles, numerical controls and basic machine assembly, followed by customisation of the application, are just some of the services provided by Affolter Technologies, which recently also began offering E-Learning. Behind this slightly off-putting name lies a truly ingenious application: E-Learning allows online training on numerical controls and machines developed by the firm, with a final test - online naturally - giving entitlement to a diploma as is the case with all traditional types of training!
    It should also be noted that the Affolter group and six other firms in the region have pooled their know-how to offer comprehensive, first-rate training for polytechnicians. Since 2007, this activ- ity has resulted in the training of three apprentices a year, who follow a rotation schedule among participating firms. On a final note, the Affolter group, thanks to its flexible working hours and various other initiatives, was awarded the Fam- ily Business Prize in 2005 and last year was the only industrial firm in French- speaking Switzerland to be cited as an example in the document «Combining work and family» published by the Se- cretariat of State for the Economy (Seco) under the aegis of Federal Councillor Doris Leuthard.

    Unrivalled productivity

    The inventor of the first numerically controlled (CNC) gear cutting machine for the watch and micro-engineering industries, Affolter Technologies today launches the AF90, the fastest machine of its kind in the world. It offers a speed of 16,000 rpm far exceeding the 3,000 rpm of old models. This machine is also the most compact on the market, occupying the same floor space as its predecessors while guaranteeing a level of productivity two to four times higher according to applications.

    This has been made possible thanks to developments carried out by Affolter Technologies engineers, who have elaborated more advanced electronic components, a numerical control called LESTE Series and more efficient motorised spindles. Prior to being placed on the market, the machine underwent successful long-duration tests in the sister company Affolter Pignons, which manufactures gear-trains for prestige watches.


  • Ladoire - ROLLER GUARDIAN TIME (RGT)

    Through his first creation, Lionel Ladoire has already marked his difference. To conceive the RGT, its creator decided to surround himself with the best partners. This is not an unusual fact in the luxury industry. However Lionel Ladoire decided to go further. True to his rebellious and forerunner spirit, the young talent did not hesitate to personally appoint the whole of the companies, mostly independent, which all accepted to collaborate in this project.

    A project stamped with extreme challenges. A rare fact for a first watch creation, the GMT «Roller Guardian Time» is equipped with its own caliber manufactured by LADOIRE, baptized Calvet/01/RGT. This automatic movement with micro-rotor bears the landmark of the «motorist» (ASXP) and of the «preparator» (SR Watch Makers).

    The concept of this timepiece's complication is revolutionary: entirely set on micro ball bearings, «Roller Guardian Time» has no hands, besides the off-center hand for the GMT.
    The indication of Hours, Minutes, Seconds is made by three revolving discs, mounted on ceramic ball bearings without lubricant. The setting of time can be done with the crown positioned at 8 o'clock (screw-on crown). The GMT function is indicated by a profiled hand and is equipped with a fast correction regulator positioned at 2 and 4 o'clock.
    Each component of the movement has been thoroughly thought through, conceived and industrialized specifically for LADOIRE. Thus, only with the help of state-of-the-art partners could this ambitious project materialize.
     
    Like for Haute Couture, the esthetic of the RGT lies on the precursor of made-to-measure. The look of the timepiece was entirely conceived by Lionel Ladoire: the exclusive asymmetry of the case is compensated by a slender fuselage, relaying an impression of astonishing equilibrium, mixing raw masculinity and opulence. This opulence, however, isn't ostentatious. Particularly tactile, there is softness emanating from the timepiece, which procures an incredible sensation of comfort when wearing it.
        
    Equally prestigious, the bracelet of the RGT is exclusive to LADOIRE and was conceived following the rigorous criteria of fine leather goods manufacture. Composed of inserts in two parts positioned at 6 and 12 o'clock, it is cut in smooth full skin leather. The bracelet is fixed onto a dual buckle in gold or titanium, depending on the model, fully developed by Ladoire. In total, 17 integrations were necessary to obtain this level of finish. A perfection that is repeated with the hand-crafted double weaving and the black anti-allergic leather or alligator.

    « HELVET MECHANIC »

    100% HELVET CERTIFIED

     
    The young watch maker, guided by his passion, his obsession for detail and his perfectionism, sought the best from the experts in mechanic timekeeping. A radically new vision of high-end watch making: for Lionel Ladoire, the creation of a timepiece is primarily the work of a team, of men and women, without whom his project could never have seen daylight.
     
    Henceforth the human aspect becomes the main fuel for success of the  brand and its timepiece, the Roller Guardian Time (RGT).
    A philosophy, which the creator has chosen to present to the public. Illustrating the sophistication and avant-garde of the brand, an internet site www.ladoire.ch pays tribute to all partners involved with the birth of the RGT.

    In a break-down view of the mechanical movement, one can discover the historical path of the timepiece's creation, thanks to mentions of the suppliers' names and locations. A special section called « Credits » is dedicated to thanking collaborators of this project.
    A token to this passionate watch making community, which is working hard behind the scenes for prestigious watch brands.

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