Oris Raid Black and silver Dial Automatic Black Leather Men's Watch 01 676 7603 4094-SET

GMT - No 30, Winter 2012-2013

In just 20 years or so, Harry Winston has become a key player in the field of Fine Watchmaking. Far more than this spectacular ascension as such, its innovative strategic path has proved truly surprising and revolutionary. When the famous 5th Avenue diamond corporation began to launch its own watch collections in 1989, the prevailing economic euphoria often lent itself to some highly debatable storytelling endeavours. Casing-up specialists claimed to be master-watchmakers. A mass-produced calibre was internally referenced to pose as a proprietary or "Manufacture" movement.
Rather than taking this road, Harry Winston opted for a highly transparent strategy and communication. Given the jewellery activity of the House, and keenly aware of the time required to learn the watchmaking trade, the senior management of the famous New York firm decided to concentrate on the design and the external elements of its timepieces, while freely admitting to buying their movements or having them developed by the elite among independent watchmakers (the Opus series).
At a time when doublespeak was the order of the day among watch communication offices, such a strategy was a truly daring and somewhat risky wager. However, devotees of fine watchmaking showed their approval of this sincere attitude. As for watches created by the greatest jeweller and "motorised" with movements from the finest watchmakers, who could ask for more ? Let's see whether this

EXTERIOR
First presented in 2011, the Project Z6 was initially introduced with a non-treated Zalium case before subsequently appearing in gold and then most recently with a DLC-coated Zalium case. The latter version, the object of our test bench, asserts itself by means of a distinctive identity.
An exclusive Harry Winston innovation in the field of watchmaking, Zalium is a zirconium-based alloy traditionally used in aviation. While lighter and harder than titanium, it is also more resistant to corrosion - a range of qualities that make it a metal perfectly suited to the constraints imposed by contemporary watches. The black DLC treatment further enhances the surface resistance and finds in Zalium an ideal substrate guaranteeing a durable finish.
While the case design immediately identifies it with its famous manufacturer, the overall avant-garde aesthetic of this timepiece stems from a deliberate and clear-cut choice. The integrated rubber strap is splendidly crafted. A small swivel of its lug attachments enables a comfortable fit on each wrist. The triple-blade folding clasp could perhaps be sturdier, in harmony with the spirit of this timepiece. While the "trompe l'oeil" cap of the pin buckle is visually appealing, it does slightly complicate handling. The dial deserves a mention as a model of its kind thanks to its exceptional aesthetic balance, technical complexity and high-quality finishing.
MOVEMENT
This model houses a mechanical hand-wound alarm movement by Chronode, probably the most innovative calibre-maker of these past 20 years. It boasts an impressive number of improvements and innovations compared with the rare number of other mechanical alarm movements. A single crown simultaneously winds the barrel driving the going train and that of the alarm. For this reason and in order to avoid any breakage, the two springs are equipped with a slipping spring. Despite the substantial size of the alarm mechanism, the movement has a three-day (72-hour) power reserve, while the alarm itself lasts around 20 seconds when the spring is fully wound. All adjustments are performed via the crown. Only one additional pusher is incorporated to start and stop the alarm function.

One of the most appreciable innovations of this movement is the fact that the alarm mechanism operates in 24-hour mode. An additional day/night indicator for the alarm time and another for the time displayed enables the user to accurately set the wake-up time over 12 hours ahead of time.

TESTS
The three days' autonomy of the calibre of this Z6 meant it was important to take three rate measurements in six positions : one at full wind, one 24 hours later, and the last after 24 hours of operation. At full wind with the slipping spring let down, the mean amplitude was measured at 290° with a 30° delta, whereas the average rate was +2 seconds/day with a 11.1-second delta.
After 24 hours of operation, the mean amplitude remained high, at 281° with a delta reduced to 16°, whereas the average rate was +1.2 seconds/day with a delta down to 8.4 seconds. Finally, after 48 hours of operation, the mean amplitude was still high at 256° with a delta of 29°, whereas the average rate was measured at -2.1 seconds/day with a delta of 7.9 seconds. These are extremely satisfactory results given the complexity of the movement. The alarm sounds for around 20 seconds when the spring is fully charged. The frequency at which the hammer strikes the gong is ideally orchestrated, and the rectangular cross-section of the gong delivers an extremely crystal-clear sound. Purists may perhaps take issue with the fact that the escapement of the alarm is slightly too clearly audible.
All function handling and adjustment is extremely smooth and intuitive. Finally, the Project Z6 Black Edition feels extremely pleasant on the wrist and its 44 mm-diameter case seems two millimetres smaller thanks to its ideal proportions and the perfectly integrated wristband.
 

CONCLUSION
This Project Z6 Black Edition definitely lives up to its promises. It is a beautifully designed technical and useful watch equipped with an alarm function that is the most accomplished to date. If one were to suggest one improvement, the movement maker might think of including an alarm power-reserve indicator. This is because if the alarm is completely wound down, there is nothing to indicate that specific fact, whereas the movement itself might still have a comfortable power reserve. The wearer might tend to forget to wind the watch so as to recharge the alarm. Finally, readability is not the b point of this timepiece, for which the focus has clearly been on the supremely effective design. One cannot but congratulate the brand on this daring choice, which is probably one of the keys to the success of this new creation that has proved itself a visual and auditory delight!