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Top Quality Zenith Automatic Watches (361) Items
Top Quality Zenith Automatic Watches (361) Items

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  • Only Watch 2015 - Zenith

    A loyal companion for all manner of human endeavours since its founding, Zenith naturally wished to associate with 40 or so other watch brands in Only Watch, the charity auction dedicated to the advancement of research on a serious degenerative neuromuscular disease. With a resolutely rock 'n' roll watch, the one-of-a-kind El Primero Only Watch timepiece.

    This watch houses the El Primero 4052 W Striking 10th automatic movement, beating at the frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour and accurate to the nearest tenth of a second. The movement also stands out for its lightness and originality, since the main components are machined from titanium: the mainplate, barrel bridge, balance bridge, chronograph bridge, lever bridge and lever-wheel bridge. Combined with the use of silicon for the chronograph double-wheel, the lever and the escape-wheel, it is easy to understand why the movement is as light as a feather.

    The dial centre is openworked to give a lighter touch as well as providing a clear view of part of the movement, which may also be admired through the transparent caseback. The oscillating weight is adorned with the "red tongue" Rolling Stones logo.
    The hours and minutes hand are shaped like the fretboard of the Fender Telecaster guitar used by Keith Richards. The facetted and hollowed hour-markers are coated with a luminescent material. The blue, anthracite and light grey counters at 3,6 and 9 o'clock respectively reprise the three colours of the original El Primero chronograph, while the red central sweep-seconds hand features a tiny counterpoise shaped like a Zenith star.

    The titanium case with its DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating features openworked lugs also contributing to the overall light feel of the model.

    Fitted with a black titanium triple folding clasp, the rubber strap features a black Barenia calfskin insert. It is personalised in the "colours" of The Rolling Stones: the tongue and British flag are tone-on-tone heat-embossed on leather.

    The presentation box comprises an inner box bearing the handwritten logo of the rock band as well as that of Zenith, as well as the box itself adorned with the red tongue on the leather lining. The inside is also red to echo the dominant colour.

  • Review - What you might have missed last month

    Louis Vuitton was in the news on WorldTempus over the past month with the inauguration of the brand's new manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and the opening of the imposing Fondation Louis Vuitton building in Paris. WorldTempus attended both events and completed its coverage with an interview with Hamdi Chatti, the brand's Vice-President of Watchmaking and Jewellery.

    While product news was dominated by the launches at Watches & Wonders in Hong Kong and the SIAR in Mexico, the industry was also involved in a number of major sporting events. Longines was Title Partner and Official Timekeeper of the FEI World Cup and presented a new 1/100th second chronograph dedicated to horse racing fans. The St. Imier brand also re-confirmed its role as a partner of the world's most important ski races as a Partner and Official Timekeeper of the FIS and added American skier Mikaela Shiffrin to its family of ambassadors.


    A. Lange & Söhne celebrated the 20th anniversary of its rebirth last month, which was widely covered on WorldTempus. But Glashutte Original, based in the same sleepy village in Saxony, also had plenty to say, celebrating the art of guilloche at the German watch museum and the roll-out of its new chronograph collection.

    At the end of the month, a number of intrepid skippers embarked upon the Route du Rhum - a single-handed transatlantic yacht race that takes place every four years. This year, among the vessels in the "Ultimate" class aiming to be the first to arrive in Pointe-a-Pitre, Guadeloupe after leaving St. Malo in France last weekend is Spindrift Racing, skippered by Yann Guichard and sponsored by Zenith watches. The El Primero Lightweight chronograph produced for Spindrift Racing picked up the "Sports Watch" prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve last week. At the time of writing Spindrift is in second place as the fleet heads of Madeira. Follow Zenith's adventures with the team on WorldTempus.

  • Greubel Forsey - QP a Equation

    The perpetual calendar remains one of the most representatives of horological complications and also one of the oldest. A direct descendant of the computus (Latin for calculation) that the clergy used to determine the religious and seasonal feasts of the seasons, these ancient mechanical perpetual calendars underpinned rural society from the early Middle Ages. A prime example can be found in the Strasbourg cathedral clock.

    This reinvention of the perpetual calendar integrates the Equation of Time into the perpetual calendar, as well as practical new functions and indications that improve clarity. The priority was to simplify the complete displays and make it easier to set the perpetual calendar by using the bi-directional winding crown. Despite the complete indications and functions, Greubel Forsey's mechanical computer with Equation of Time is as easy to set as a simple date feature.

    If your timepiece has stopped for several days and you need to take an imminent flight, simply pull out the crown checking the selection indicator near 2 o'clock. Turn the crown back and forth to change the calendar and all the different indications change by themselves. If you go too far, you just go back through the days until you get to the right date. It's easy, intuitive and pleasant to use.

    To meet this technical challenge Greubel Forsey developed a sophisticated coding mechanism: the mechanical computer for which three patents were filed. A stack of cams with movable fingers shift the indications on the front and back dials of the timepiece, the complete mechanism fitting entirely within the movement without increasing its dimensions. The cam for the months changes the month in a window on the front display and also moves the Equation of Time scale on the back. The years' cam controls the leap year indication on the front and that of the seasons on the back. The development of this coding device not only overturns conventional ways of setting the indications but also by displaying them simultaneously on front and back dials.

    Just a glance at the subdial at 3 o'clock clearly reveals the three in-line windows that clearly indicate the day, the date and the month. The large date makes the calendar extremely legible.

    What is the equation of time? Horology seeks to measure time as regularly as possible; however the Earth orbits the Sun in an elliptical path. As the Earth sweeps close past the Sun, the period between successive solar zeniths, or the solar day's length, changes. This causes the difference between solar time and mean time to vary from a few seconds to as much as 16 minutes during the year. The Equation of Time is the conversion factor between solar and mean time. To read solar time, look at the back subdial for the displayed date's Equation of Time.

    In the spirit of the GMT, Greubel Forsey continues to put time to better service; where the back of the timepiece is not just there to showcase for fine hand finishing, but also provides a new way to tell the time.

    On the back of the QP a eQUATION you find the Equation of Time indication, the seasons and the current year in four figures.

    The indications on the back are made up of two superimposed transparent discs in synthetic sapphire crystal. The first disc is driven by the date wheel and has a scale in minutes indicating the difference between solar and mean time.

    The second disc, which goes around once a year, has a figure shaped like a manta ray, and divided into four sections in red and blue to show whether the Equation of Time is positive or negative. To find out, look where the red line (positive difference) or the blue line (negative difference) crosses the scale. This Equation of Time display is unprecedented and provides a clearer appreciation of the Earth's elliptical orbit around the sun as well as the equinoxes and solstices

    The QP a eQUATION in white gold measures 43.5mm in diameter and is 16mm high. It includes a fourth patentthe 24-second Tourbillon inclined at 25°, . The balance oscillates at 21,600v/h and the power reserve is 72 hours from two fast-rotation superimposed barrels that feature protection against excess tension. This leaves space for a large free-sprung balance. The movement diameter is 37mm(16.41 lignes), height 9.55mm and comprises 570 components and 65 jewels.

  • Knowledge of time - The usefulness of the number 3

    Knowledge of time is of course a fundamental need. Without it, just imagine the consequences on our means of communication! On various levels, this need has always existed and gave rise to the division of time, particularly that of the day - a practice that our modern timekeepers have rendered increasingly rigorous. Nonetheless, these instruments as such are fairly recent: for centuries, man made do with very simple means to divide up the day that could be found in his immediate surroundings.
    The first of these means was the gnomon. The word comes from the Greek (meaning indicator), but its use dates back well before the Green civilisation, since it already appeared in China during the Yao period, 24 centuries BC. It was originally a stick placed in the ground. According to the length of the shadow it cast, people determined the period of the day between the rising of the sun, its zenith (noon) and its setting. People also realised that the length of the shadow also varied in step with the seasons, and thus began marking off increasingly accurate graduations on the ground. This method enabled for example the builders of Stonehenge in the south of England to point their temple towards the sunrise on the day of the summer solstice, meaning the longest of the 365 days in a year. That was way back in 2700 BC…
    More recently, around 600 B.C., man had the idea of incorporating the gnomon into a dedicated construction that we refer to as a sundial and is also found across all civilisations. In India, for example, the Jaipur Observatory (1724 AD) harbours an astonishing number of all kinds of sundials. Under the influence of the Babylonians (in what is now Iraq), whose system of calculations and trade was based on the number 3 and its multiples since 2000 BC, the day was divided into 12 periods on most sundials in Europe and the Middle East. It is important to use the term periods and not hours, since the length of the day varies according to the system, which meant that the longer the day, the longer the period. The transition between these flexible periods and fixed-duration hours occurred only much later, when the first horological movements appeared in the 13th century. Nonetheless, some civilisations held onto the system of flexible periods until quite recently - such as Japan, which did not adopt fixed-length hours until 1873.
    Coming back to the sophisticated timepieces in our contemporary world, what do we notice about their dials? That they are divided into 12! In other words, when it comes to calculating time, we still resort to the 4000 year-old Babylonian system: 12, 24, 60 and 3600 are all multiples of 3. Go figure as to why the whole world uses such an antiquated method… Or why all attempts to convert time calculation to the decimal system have failed, apart from the modern division of the second. Perhaps the relationship between man and time goes well beyond the laws, systems or standards that have since been invented. It is also true that while man can influence many things about his environment, he has no hold on time. So perhaps he maintains a natural relationship with this phenomenon, just as back in the day when the 3 most important events of the day were the rising of the sun, its zenith and its setting. Back to the figure 3…

  • GPHG - The "Aiguille d'Or" for the Mikrogirder watch

    The glittering event was attended by Federal Councillor Alain Berset, representatives of the Geneva authorities, along with the most influential figures in the watch industry, all of whom had gathered to celebrate the 12th Art.
    Organised in a link-up with New York and broadcast live with English interpreting for aficionados the world over, especially via the Euronews.org website, this event which has established itself as a stellar fixture on the international watchmaking calendar offers an annual salute to the excellence of worldwide watch production.

    The international jury of this 12th edition, composed of watch industry professionals, awarded the "Aiguille d'Or" Grand Prix, the supreme distinction honouring the finest timepiece of the year, to the Mikrogirder model by TAG Heuer.
    Created in 2001 and overseen since 2011 by a Foundation, the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix contributes to the international renown and influence of the watch industry and of its values: innovation, perpetuating expertise across generations and a constant quest for excellence. These shared core values are also upheld by the main partner of the GPHG Foundation, the Banque Privee Edmond de Rothschild. Since 2011, the latter annually rewards the best young student at the Geneva Watchmaking School by granting a scholarship.

       
    2012 PRIZE-WINNERS:

    • "Aiguille d'Or" Grand Prix: TAG Heuer, Mikrogirder
    • Ladies' Watch Prize: Chanel, Flying Tourbillon Premiere
    • Men's Watch Prize: MB&F, Legacy Machine N°1
    • Innovation Watch Prize: HYT, H1 Titanium Black DLC
    • Jewellery and Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Chopard, Imperiale Tourbillon Full Set
    • Best Complicated Watch Prize: Greubel Forsey, Invention Piece 2
    • Sports Watch Prize: Habring2, Doppel 2.0
    • "La Petite Aiguille" Watch Prize: Zenith, Pilot Big Date Special
    • Best Watchmaker Prize: Carole Forestier Kasapi
    • Special Jury Prize: Societe Suisse de Chronometrie (SSC)

    • Prix du Public : MB&F, Legacy Machine N°1

    Once again this year, the public was also able to make its choice among the 70 watches pre-selected by the jury. The Public Prize is awarded by visitors to the Geneva exhibition and by internet visitors who voted for their favourite watch on the www.gphg.org or www.worldtempus.com websites.

    EXHIBITION AT THE SWISS EMBASSY IN MOSCOW
    All the prize-winning and nominated watches from this 12th edition of the GHPG will be on show at the Swiss Embassy in Moscow from November 28th to December 1st.
    This year, the watches pre-selected by the jury were also exhibited in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Geneva, prior to the prize-giving ceremony.

  • Gerald Genta - Octo Tourbillon Sunray

    As an archetype of the modern approach to watchmaking introduced by Gerald Genta, the Octo (for octagonal) case continues to draw on its good fortune in being born under the sign of the figure 8, regarded as a lucky number in China. Its design celebrates an architectural design placing function in the service of aesthetics by giving pride of place to geometrical shapes, pared-down surfaces and visible frame structures. On this gleaming "solar" model, the additional studs powerfully reinforce the functional nature of the bezel. 

    The Octo Tourbillon Sunray celebrates the return of yellow gold for Gerald Genta. Its case glows with the radiance of the brilliant-polished middle. It wears a singularly contrasting bezel in satin-brushed gold incrusted with gold studs like a halo. Looking down from its zenith, the "sun watch" focuses the piercing gaze of its hawk's eye set at the heart of the beaded crown. This stone symbolising an open-minded attitude toward new ideas is a fitting emblem indeed for Gerald Genta! 

    The dial composed of two superimposed gold plates affords the sight of an unexpected solar eclipse. Above the black-lacquered base with its minute track hovers an ingeniously cloisonne-worked depiction of the daystar.

    The luminosity of yellow gold bursts forth from the shade of the black lacquer on four depth-engraved triangles, on the raised retrograde hour numerals, and on the dauphine-shaped hands. Revealed through an octagonal opening at 6 o'clock, the tourbillon is distinguished by a sapphire bridge that makes it seem to be of the flying kind. An anti ultraviolet-ray treatment slows down the drying of oils and thereby prolongs the longevity of the legendary mechanism. 

    The tourbillon is a long-established speciality for Gerald Genta, which was one of the first brands to produce a self-winding tourbillon mechanism in 1990. The one powering the Octo Tourbillon Sunray comprises a perfectly integrated retrograde hour display and boasts a substantial 64-hour power reserve. It is also remarkable in terms of its slender construction (5.9 mm thick).

    Developed and crafted within the Manufacture, the movement is enriched by signature fine watchmaking finishes such as circular graining, bevelling, polishing, circular satin brushing or hand-drawn flanks. In an ultimate touch of class, it is clothed in the classic Gerald Genta "old gold", the "Potter finish" created by the brand in tribute to the colour of antique movements.

    The Octo Tourbillon in yellow gold comes on a deep black creased crocodile leather strap. Prospective owners may choose the pink gold version or the "tri-composite" model with a platinum case middle, tantalum bezel and white gold studs. The latter is further enlivened by a black and red lacquered white gold dial and matching red strap.

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