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Top Quality Rolex Silver Watches (355) Items
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  • Foreword - A quarter-century in resolutely feminine mode

    Exuding a free-spirited, independent, impetuous, innovative, welcoming, soft, comfortable and elegant aura for the past 25 years, the SIHH certainly qualifi es for a number of adjectives typically associated with the fair sex. The SIHH will be celebrating its quarter- century in January 2015, and like countless other women, it has left an indelible imprint on the measurement of time.

    Women have constantly and variously served as the poet's secret muse, the artist's precious inspiration, the politician's wise advisor or the musician's perceptive shadow. They have occupied a prime role in History, whether in the spotlight or in the background, consistently exercising authentic infl uence, whether deliberately or not. Nor should one forget that women have been, still are and always will be the great civilizing power in the world! Horology is no exception to the rule and its history has been regularly punctuated by women. The latter notably inspired wristwatches and were the fi rst to wear them : from Elizabeth I of England to the dainty jewelry models of the Directory and Empire periods, right the way through to Mercedes Gleitze who swam across the channel with a Rolex Oyster watch on her wrist.

    Today, if "woman is the future of man" as the French poet Aragon famously proclaimed in 1952, women's watches are undoubtedly the future of the watch itself. 25 years ago, in taking on the seemingly crazy challenge of creating the fi rst show dedicated to Fine Watchmaking in Geneva, the cradle of the industry, the SIHH endowed Haute Horlogerie with its authentically global dimension. Ever since, year after year, it has been setting the tone for watch trends, catalyzing ceaselessly renewed and perpetuated innovations, expertise and skills. It is endowed with a unique ability to unite, to share, to love and to spread the love. Because the SIHH is feminine to the core !
    Fabienne Lupo
    Chairwoman and Managing Director of the SIHH

  • Richard Mille - SIHH 2014: Tim Malachard, Marketing Director at Richard Mille

    You are launching an RM 50-01 in partnership with the Lotus F1 Team and Romain Grosjean. What does this partnership involve?
    We have a contract with the Lotus Formula 1 team and with its drivers. We are introducing a watch bearing its name and that of Romain Grosjean at this SIHH, equipped with a G-Force Meter and featuring the new material we are presenting, NTPT. This carbon-based technology stems from the production of sails for racing yachts.

    It is still possible to enjoy clear visibility in the world of F1 alongside the all-pervasive presence of Rolex in this sport?
    Yes, because our association is with the drivers, to develop products with them - just as we did for Felipe Massa. At that time, his team was partnering another brand, which didn't stop us working together. We are interested in the sportsmen themselves and we have indeed just launched a partnership with Alexis Pinturault, one of the most promising young French skiers, who just won the slalom ski race at Wengen last Sunday.

    And what about the partnership with Natalie Portman?
    The partnership agreement was signed in 2012, but it took two years to create the watch bearing her name, the RM 19-01. It represents one of her favourite symbols, the spider. We like it when our partners share their emotions with us and tell us what they like.

    So 2014 is a year dedicated to women at Richard Mille ?
    It's doubtless going to be a big year for women internationally, so we are taking the opportunity to launch several new watches in our ladies' collections. The latter account for 20% of our production, but we think that figure could in time reach 30 to 35%. With our new materials, such as white or chestnut brown ceramics, and our bracelet on the RM 07-01 model, we certainly have some features that are liable to appeal to women.

    What's so special about this bracelet?
    For the time being, it's intended for ladies, and it meets all Richard Mille criteria - meaning it is complex, extremely well finished and perfectly integrated with our cases and their distinctively curved shapes. Richard Mille has always been very sensitive to wearer comfort.

    For the first time, visitors to your booth are forbidden to take pictures. Why is that?
    We have always been open to this principle. A lot of people like to take snaps of absolutely everything. Even with a smartphone, you can get impressive results. But some of them are used to feed the fake-watch market and so we want to protect the brand and our clients.

    Could you give us a few current business figures?
    This year, we will produce about 3,400 watches, compared with less than 3,000 in 2013. Our turnover for 2013 was 123 million Swiss francs and we are aiming for 150 million in 2014. Our average price increases year on year and is now over the 110,000 € mark. We sell what we produce and our order book is full.

    What's the geographical spread of your activity?
    China represents less than 3% of our turnover, and we want to develop it - that is indeed our goal this year. The rest is pretty well balanced, just as Mr Richard Mille himself has always wished it to be: 40% in Asia, 30% in Europe and about the same in America. We are going to open another 8 to 10 boutiques, including in London, Jeddah, Beijing and Shanghai, after opening several last year in locations such as Las Vegas and Macao.

  • Collecting - Vintage Value Equation (4)


    WORLDTEMPUS - 20 August 2012
    When I am evaluating the condition of a watch, I always examine the case's lugs for thickness and uniformity. With experience after studying lots of watches, you will learn what a case looks like before it is refinished. For example: on complicated Patek Philippe models, especially perpetual calendar chronographs starting with the second-series 2499 models, the lugs have steps. Study these watches closely to learn what the steps look like when they are new. Stay away from cases with soft lugs or request a deep discount for a soft case. The metal can never again be made whole once it is polished away.
    In the previous three parts of this series, we have learned that the dial is the most important and valuable part of a vintage watch. Accordingly, the condition of the dial is paramount. Ideally, there will be no imperfections like flaking paint, no rust, or missing applied pieces. Many vintage watch dials have lacquer on them; after many years lacquer can craze or crack. This is actually a desirable effect on some watches like the glossy dial of the Rolex 5513 Submariner. Spotting on a dial that is a few decades or more in age is normal, and as long as it doesn't detract from your enjoyment of the watch, it is normally acceptable. The hands, usually included with the dial in grading condition, are frequently in different condition than the dial. Oxidation or pitting can often be found on hands. If there is luminous substance on the hands, it can be cracked or have completely fallen out. In this regard, original hands, regardless of their condition, are more valuable than replacement hands, even if the latter are like new.


    In terms of dial condition, there are some specific discolorations that enhance the value of the watch. Most common is patina, which is the word used for something whose color changes over time. The luminous hour markers on Rolex dials are the most useful example. Study the dials of, say, Reference 5513 Submariners. You will find hour markers from snow white (no patina) to deep butterscotch color. The important thing, in terms of value, is that the patina is uniform across all luminous elements. Another permutation in hue is the so called Color Change (or "Patrizzi") dials on the Rolex 16520 Daytona models. This only occurs on the black dials and, specifically, on the chapter rings around the subdials. Originally, the chapter rings were white or pale silver. Some, over time, develop a brown coloration. For many collectors, this is a pleasing effect and makes the watch more valuable. Incidentally, dials with a propensity for having chapter rings turn brown usually also have an inverted 6 on the chronograph hour totalizer subdial. One last example of a desirable color change is the Rolex Explorer II reference number 16550, whose white dials have turned to a deep cream color.


    Bracelets hopefully stand the test of time without stretching or losing links, however this is not as important as replacement bracelets are usually fairly easy to find, though likely expensive. Nothing is more personally disgusting than a used strap, much less a really old used strap. A new strap is preferred, as no one likes to wear a strap that someone else has sweated on. An exception to this is certain vintage pilot's watches with special straps or even ankle straps, which are basically almost as historic as the watch itself.
    The last variable in determining the value of a vintage watch is provenance: the old "box and papers" thing. Without exception or qualification, it is always better to get as many of the elements that were originally delivered with the watch as possible. For many high-end vintage watches, the presence of the original box, documents and other paraphernalia can enhance the value of the watch by as much as 25 to 35 percent.
    Interestingly, what was given out with the watch was often different depending on where in the world the watch was purchased. Let's face it, we all like to get as much as possible for our money, and the goodies and extras are important and quite valuable. The original guarantee or chronometer certificate for a watch also proves authenticity. There is an active market for vintage watch boxes, product booklets, hang tags and the like. Buyer beware, however: these items can also be faked. You can never be too careful in learning about the paraphernalia, what to look for to know if you are looking at genuine artifacts or fakes.
    A final thought when it comes to finding a watch with its original elements: the original owner and perhaps subsequent owners who cared enough to keep the watch and its things together was probably an owner who took good care of the watch itself. Easily 90 percent of vintage watches have no box and papers, so finding a complete package is rare, exciting and valuable. Good luck!

    Related stories:

    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (1)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (2)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (3)

  • Sotheby's - Thomas Perazzi New Deputy Director


    Thomas Perazzi joins Sotheby's from his position as specialist at an auction house specialising in horology. Mr. Perazzi began his career in the industry in 2006, further developing his b interest in Omega and Rolex watches as well as vintage wristwatches made between 1940 and 1970. Mr. Perazzi will strengthen Sotheby's existing team in Europe with his solid expertise and b relations to Italy, a key centre in the watch auction market in Europe.
    Commenting on Thomas Perazzi's appointment, Marc Michel-Amadry, Managing Director, Sotheby's Switzerland said: "I am delighted to announce the appointment of Thomas Perrazi as Deputy Director of Sotheby's European Watch Department. Thomas brings to Sotheby's outstanding expertise as well as a thorough understanding of the auction business and the Italian market. His appointment will enhance the company's ability to ensure the best service to watch collectors".
    Geoffroy Ader, Head of Watches, Sotheby's Europe, added: "Through his deep knowledge of the vintage and modern wristwatches, Thomas Perazzi will reinforce our existing team in Europe" .
    Another b addition to Sotheby's global watch team, Charles Tearle, appointed Director, Head of Watches, Asia, will be based in Hong Kong, working closely with Tim Bourne, Worldwide Head of Watches, as well as an international team of specialists, in driving Sotheby's business in auctions and private sales of watches in Asia.
    Together, Mr. Tearle and Mr. Perazzi will further strengthen Sotheby's watch business worldwide by working closely with the international team of watch specialists, reporting to Tim Bourne, Worldwide Head of Watches.

  • Christie's - Live And Let Die


    The present Rolex ref. 5513, modified by the famous Q Branch, is certainly the most memorable Submariner to appear in movies and must be considered a veritable trophy not only for the watch aficionado but also for the amateurs of cinematography and of James Bond in general.

    Especially designed for James Bond to be worn during 007''s mission in Live and Let Die, it was created in 1972 by the world-famous film production designer Syd Cain.
    Featuring not only a bezel spinning at high speed to cut ropes and chains, in the movie it also bore an ultra-b magnet which was supposed to neutralize bullets but was, instead, used by 007 to unzip Ms. Solitaire's dress.
    The lot will be sold together with an original construction drawing and two signed images from the set (estimate: SFr. 200,000 - 400,000).

  • George Daniels - 1926-2011


    WORLDTEMPUS - 24 October 2011

    It was hard to imagine the watch industry before George Daniels, and it will be hard to imagine this place now that he has left it: Daniels was nothing if not an iridescent figure, often setting the tone of good horological taste behind the scenes.
    This might be hard for newcomers to imagine today since Daniels only created a total of 37 watches - pocket watches, no less - in addition to a series of 50 wristwatches completed together with protege Roger Smith called Millennium as well as the beginning of the collaborative venture with him introduced last year. As avid followers of horological history will know, the Omega base caliber powering the 50 Millennium timepieces held special meaning. Daniels was, of course, the inventor of the co-axial escapement that is now utilized in every single Omega wristwatch.
     


    A true expert
    Though Daniels began his professional life after serving his country in World War II with the proverbial 50 quid in his pocket - just enough to buy his first set of tools, as the story goes - his drive, ambition and enormous talent made him a very wealthy man. Some of his fortune was acquired by buying and selling precious vintage pieces and selling 35 of his own unique pocket watches, but most of it came from selling what was to become his most famous invention to the Swatch Group.
    No two of Daniels' creations were ever completely alike. The next watch was always undertaken because Daniels had another idea to try out, another escapement to experiment with or desired other functions. He invented the co-axial escapement in 1975, but did not patent his perfected design until 1980. After a long search that involved talks with both Patek Philippe and Rolex over the course of a decade and a half, Daniels eventually sold the design to Omega, who needed almost another decade to bring it to serial fruition. Though the patent has now run out, no other watch brands use the co-axial aside from Omega and Smith, who has adapted it for use in his own masterfully crafted timepieces, which also contain other traditional elements of English watchmaking.
     


    Personal memories
    When I entered the watch industry, I had no idea who Daniels was. I soon read his opus "Watchmaking" (which was recently republished by Watchprint) in order to learn the basics. However, it was only after becoming friends with various independent watchmakers - predominately members of the AHCI - that I began to understand his place in our industry. One year at Basel, one of them even stood in line at the Omega booth in order to get his own copy of "Watchmaking" signed by the master - and couldn't stop beaming at the chance to meet his idol. Tellingly, François-Paul Journe also worshipped Daniels, even going so far as to present him with one of his own watches last year. For my own part, I found myself fairly well in awe in the presence of Dr. Daniels (he was presented with an honorary title later in life). His technical and industry insights and knowledge were eternally enlightening.
     


    George Daniels passed away at his estate on the Isle of Man following complications arising from hip replacement surgery at the age of 85. A funeral is expected to be held on the Isle of Man in about two weeks' time. Fans of Daniels will be pleased to know that a biography written by Michael Clerizo with the current working title "George Daniels: A Master Watchmaker and His Work" is due to be published next fall.
    George Daniels, A Master Watchmaker & His Art
    FRENCH VERSION (216 Pages • 240 ill. • Format : 29.5 x 29.5 cm. Price : CHF 160.00 • € 140.00).
    ENGLISH VERSION (216 Pages • 240 ill. • Format : 29.5 x 29.5 cm. Price : CHF 105.00 • € 93.00).
     

  • Tennis & Timepieces - High Profile Venue for Watches


    WORLDTEMPUS - 8 June 2011

    The world-class tennis tournament in the heart of Paris seems to be the stage that tennis has set to show off players' and spectators' love of watches.
    Rafael Nadal's spectacular win over Roger Federer in the finals of the tournament - his sixth French Open championship on the slow red clay in seven years - represents a continuation of Richard Mille's foray into high-profile ambassadorships. Confirming Mille's ever-accurate nose, world number one Nadal has been on a serious winning streak since first strapping the controversial RM 027 tourbillon to his sweaty wrist last spring.


    Some watches played on the clay right along with the players. Richard Mille defeated Rolex in the finals - in every sense. While Nadal seems more than content to wear the ultra-light, ultra-expensive, and ultra-cool black tourbillon during play and practice, Rolex has not yet been able to convince Federer to don his flavor of the day while swatting the yellow felt ball.
    Young Talents
    Five-time French Open sponsor Longines has also not been able to convince its many spokesplayers to wear one of its watches while playing either. Asked about this, CEO Walter von Känel was unconcerned. "It's a personal choice," he said.
    Longines sponsors a number of young talents in the tennis arena. This year, the brand put on the fairly lavish Future Tennis Aces program, which allowed sixteen under-13-year-old players from all over the world to come to Roland Garros for a week, partake in a tournament on the actual tournament grounds, and soak up the atmosphere of professional tennis.
    Additionally, Longines also runs a program it calls the Rising Tennis Stars, which aims to support young tennis talents between the ages of 17 and 21 years as they develop their careers. These Rising Stars currently include Grigor Dimitrov, the 20-year-old number-one tennis player from Bulgaria, ranked number 64 in the ATP Tour rankings; Tiago Fernandes, Brazil's the number-one tennis player under 21 and currently ranked 392 on the ATP computer; Tsung-Hua Yang, the first player from Taiwan to be the number one junior player in the world, currently ranked 302 by the ATP; Sabine Lisicki of Germany, who reached a career high as number 22 in the WTA rankings in August 2009; Ryan Harrison (USA), who reached a career-high no. 7 in world junior rankings in 2008 and is currently ranked no. 119 on the ATP computer; 18-year-old Roberto Carballes Baena (Spain) is currently ranked number 446 by the ATP and number 11 on the ITF Junior World rankings; and Sai-Sai Zheng (China), currently ranked no. 275 on the WTA Tour, is one of the highest ranked 17-year-old players.
    During Roland Garros, Longines also awarded former world number one Jim Courier with the Longines Prize for Elegance, which he received from Longines ambassador Andre Agassi. He received it as a tribute to his work with disadvantaged children, notably through his foundation Courier's Kids.

  • Exhibition - Counterfeit Rolex with the head of Saddam Hussein

    30 juillet 2009

    VOIR LA GALERIE-PHOTOS

    La galerie du Jeu de Paume a Paris propose actuellement et jusqu'au 27 septembre une exposition intitulee « Planete Parr. La collection de Martin Parr ». Organisee par la Haus der Kunst a Munich, en collaboration avec le Jeu de Paume, elle presente pour la premiere fois la riche collection de livres photographiques et de photos de Martin Parr, accompagnee d'une partie de sa collection d'objets heteroclites, ainsi que de quelques-uns de ses travaux recents, notamment les series «Luxury» et «Small World». Ce photographe, membre de la fameuse agence Magnum, se presente lui-même comme un « collectionneur, un editeur et un photographe », et joue ironiquement sur le cliche de l'Anglais extravagant aimant a accumuler toutes sortes d'objets divers.
    Ben Laden en montre de poche
    Outre le plus grand paquet de chips du monde, des theieres a la gloire de Margaret Thatcher ou un slip orne du portrait de Barack Obama, le sieur Parr a recolte une incroyable serie de garde-temps. Montres-bracelets, montres de poche, horloges, reveils, usurpant ou non le logo d'une marque celebre ou le fameux Swiss made, tous ont pour point commun de celebrer sur leur cadran une personne ou un evenement historique. Le visiteur pourra ainsi admirer des reveils commemorant les exploits de Gagarine ou divers modeles aux couleurs de Mao, de Staline ou même de Barack Obama. Certaines de ces tocantes meritent sans conteste la palme de l'originalite, comme cette montre de poche a l'effigie de Ben Laden ou cette horloge chinoise en forme de raquette de ping-pong. Une vitrine entiere est consacree aux montres a l'effigie de Saddam Hussein. Certaines, provenant vraisemblablement d'Irak, sont tout a sa gloire. D'autres, conçues apres le 11 septembre, vehiculent le propos inverse, notamment celle sur laquelle un montage photographique represente un corps de rongeur surmonte de la tête de Saddam et de ce slogan : « captured like a rat » ! La montre, objet de propagande par excellence qui permet d'afficher son opinion dans cette vitrine miniature qu'est son cadran, provient ainsi des deux côtes de l'histoire. Il en va de même pour les tapis de priere musulmans ornes des tours jumelles percutees par les avions et estampilles « made in Afghanistan » qui sont ici exposes face a des bibelots aux couleurs de l'aigle americain exaltant les slogans va-t-en-guerre de l'ere Bush.


    Ironie britannique
    Le dialogue entre photographies et objets nous tend ainsi un miroir de notre epoque, revelant les tendances de nos modes de vie contemporains. Comme le dit Martin Parr lui-même, « Ce travail ressemble a une epitaphe pour une periode sur le point de s'achever, faite de croissance excessive, de parade et de luxe ostentatoire. C'est une opportunite de jeter un regard retrospectif sur cette periode de nos vies. » Un regard qui n'oublie pas neanmoins la distance et l'ironie « so british » !
    www.jeudepaume.org
    www.martinparr.com

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