Cartier La Dona de Cartier Silver Dial 18kt Rose Gold Ladies Watch WE60050I

Auction: Sale of Important Watches, Sunday 15th November 2009, Hotel Beau Rivage, Geneva
Pre-Sale Exhibition: Friday 13th - Sunday 15th November, Hotel Beau Rivage, Geneva

SOTHEBY'S is delighted to present its forthcoming Sale of Important Watches, to be held in Geneva on Sunday, 15th November, 2009 at 8.00pm at the Hotel Beau Rivage, Geneva. Among a group of important historical watches is a yellow gold chronometer pocket watch made for the Emperor of Ethiopia in 1893, the "Negus Watch", and a gold dress watch made in 1918 to celebrate the achievements of the American Red Cross. The auction features 226 lots this season with a wide variety of watches ranging from the late 18th century to the present day.
Geoffroy Ader, newly appointed European Head of Watches and auctioneer for the sale, said: "We have been very busy collecting these watches from all over Europe and are extremely enthusiastic to share all our passionate work with worldwide collectors. We are delighted with a wide variety of timepieces from enamel watches from the late 18th and early 19th century to a large variety of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin wristwatches including highly complicated pieces - namely perpetual calendars, chronographs and minute repeaters. We are also proud to present two historical watches appearing for the first time at auction."
A selection of vintage Patek Philippe

The undeniable highlights of the auction are some of the important complication wristwatches made by Patek Philippe. The star lot in this section is this Fine and Extremely Rare Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1526R. Fewer than ten examples with this rare combination of a pink gold case and pink dial have been seen on the market; and furthermore this exceptional timepiece appears for the first at auction. (Est. CHF 200,000-300,000/ US$ 194,000 - 291,000)

A Fine and Rare Ref. 18K Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 2499/100J made circa 1984 belongs to the 4th series and is part of a limited production which was made for the famous retailer Beyer in Zurich. Accompanied by the original certificate and presentation case this lot is estimated at CHF 300,000-400,000 (US$ 291,000 - 388,000).

This section also includes a Fine and Rare Yellow Gold Split Seconds Chronograph Ref. 1436J, estimated at CHF 300,000-400,000 (US$ 291,000 - 388,000). According to our research, approximately 165 pieces were made with of this reference, equating to an average of just five watches a year. This piece was made circa 1947 and is accompanied by its original presentation case.

Another example of Patek Philippe craftsmanship is this Rare and Unique Gilt-Brass Solar-Powered Desk Clock with Cloisonne Enamel Scene "Ville de Geneve", enamel by Madame Luce Chappaz in 1978, estimated at CHF 40,000 - 60,000 (US$ 38,800 - 58,500). The cloisonne work on this unique piece is beautifully executed and renders this piece one of the finest examples of solar clocks by Patek Philippe. The magnificent "Ville de Geneve" scene on the present example was executed by the esteemed enameller Madame Luce Chappaz, whose work can also be found on other Patek Philippe solar clocks such as "La Dame a la Licorne" and "La Camargue".

A selection of Vacheron Constantin Highlights

The sale also features Vacheron Constantin highlights among which are two very fine and rare models from a private collection. Made circa 1953 this very interesting Large 18K Yellow Gold Cushion Form Triple Calendar Ref. 4764 with Moon Phases is better known under the name "Cioccolatone", and is probably considered as one of the most sought-after vintage wristwatches by Vacheron Constantin. This reference appeared in the 1950s and was made in various models; the majority were cased in yellow gold with either a mechanical or automatic movement featuring a "time only" dial or, as is the case with the watch to be offered, fitted with triple calendar and moonphases. It is estimated at CHF 40,000 - 50,000 (US$ 38,800 - 48,500).

The most important lot of this section is a Fine and Very Rare Flat 18K Pink Gold Minute Repeater Ref. 4261 for which the estimate is at CHF 160,000 - 180,000 (US$ 155,000 - 175,000). It is believed that only very few examples of this reference were produced to meet the highest standards of quality such as the present model and also that only very few have survived over the years.
Important historical watches

An historical pocket watch made for Ethiopian Emperor Menelik II (1844 - 1913), "The Negus Watch" dates from 1893. The Watch was a gift to Leon Chefneux in recognition of his contribution to the implementation of Ethiopia's first railway line, as inscribed on the inside of the case 'Don de Sa Majeste Menelik II Empereur d'Ethiopie'. The Monarch's reign was characterized by progress, innovation and modernity. Estimated at CHF 30,000 - 50,000 (US$ 29,100 - 48,500) this very rare and historically important 18K yellow gold chronometer pocket watch with detent escapement made by Lattes has a white enamel dial, enhanced with blue and white enamel decoration, polychrome writing in Ethiopian symbolising the hour indication, subsidiary seconds, a white enamel replacement dial and a back cover representing the royal crown of Menelik II. It is fully set with rubies and diamonds, accompanied by its presentation case and the original First Class Geneva Observatory Certificate.

Also part of this section, "The Red Cross Watch"Watch" , sold to Henry P. Davison as a Tribute to the League of the Red Cross, symbolises the incredible achievements of the American Red Cross during the war for which Mr. Davison (formerly a partner of J.P. Morgan) is best remembered as its Chairman. The estimate for this very rare and historically important 18k yellow gold, enamel, keyless shutter dress watch with minute repeater, eclipse model and made by Cartier circa 1918 is estimated at CHF 80,000 -120,000 (US$ 77,500 - 117,000). The picture next shows the front (left), inside (centre) and back (right) of this historical pocket watch. On the 90th anniversary of the founding of the Red Cross, the watch pays tribute to the international organization whose headquarters are based in Geneva.
Exceptional enamel watches for the Chinese market

 Also included in the auction are two extremely fine collections of enamel pocket watches made for the French market with scenes that have been attributed to paintings by well know old master painters such as Teniers, Boucher and Fragonard and others made especially for the Chinese market.

The Emperor of China and his court were as fascinated by European mechanical novelties and decorative watches as Europe was by Chinese works of art. By 1800, a pattern of Oriental market watches emerged with duplex or cylinder escapements, clearly visible centre seconds hand, the movements chased throughout with flowers and geometric ornament (le calibre chinois). The quality of the fine enamel medallions were of great importance to these highly decorative pieces.
Among the watches made for the Chinese market included in this sale, there is a Rare Gold and Enamel Verge Watch made circa 1765 after The Painting "Pensent-ils au raisin" by Boucher and estimated at CHF 6,000 - 8,000 (US$ 5,900 - 7,800) - picture above, left; as well as a Gold and Enamel Quarter Repeating A Toc Verge Watch With Enamel Scene by Teniers, signed Dailly, No. 690, circa 1775, and estimated at CHF 8,000 - 12,000 (US$ 7,800 - 11,700) - picture on the right.
Continuing this section, there will be an Exceptional Gold, Enamel and Pearl Set WatcExceptional Watch Made for the Chinese Market circa 1800 with very fine enamel painting and estimated at CHF 60,000 - 80,000 (US$ 58,500 - 77,500).

And also to be mentioned in the sale, this Exceptional Gold and Hard Stone Center Seconds Octagonal Watch set with Pearls for the Chinese Market circa 1800 and numbered 5983. It is signed Ilbery on the movement, and it is estimated at CHF 50,000 - 80,000 (US$ 48,500 - 77,500). William Ilbery, who was most commonly known as a fine maker of watches for the Chinese market, is also credited for some very rare examples made of moss agate like this present example.