Audemars Piguet White Dial 18kt White Gold Black Leather Unisex Watch 15103BCZZA001CR02

WORLDTEMPUS - 2 February 2011

One of the major talking subjects at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie was the new Royal Oak collection. After all, it was inevitable that the 40th anniversary of the iconic Audemars Piguet model born in 1972 would be accordingly celebrated in 2012 - hypothetically with a few limited editions and a restyling or an update of the regular line. The big question mark was related to any eventual new Royal Oak Offshore products since the extreme sports line inspired by the original Royal Oak was also celebrating its 20th anniversary.
However, having launched a new Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in 2011, this year Audemars Piguet stuck to the Royal Oak line, reinventing "the first haute horology sports watch to treat steel as precious metal." A new 41 mm range with an automatic watch and a chronograph joined a 39 mm ultra-thin timepiece replicating the original dial and a 39 mm ultra-thin tourbillon along with two new smaller sizes and the expected commemorative masterpieces.

New skeletons
Reconfiguring a flagship model is not easy. Even if almost every traditional brand seems to be searching its archives to come up with a contemporary tribute to some iconic timepiece from the past, the historical responsibility is bigger and requires assertiveness. Furthermore, the most prestigious manufactures have a huge following of aficionados ready to criticize any less successful re-issue or re-interpretation, let alone the growing specialized watch media.
To celebrate the 40th anniversary, and contrary to the high expectations of some, Audemars Piguet didn't come up with an ultra-mega-uber complicated Royal Oak - even though there have been a few quite really complicated pieces in the line in the past. The 2012 anniversary collection comprises eight different models, headed up by the two limited editions as follows.
The Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon Limited Edition comes in a 41 mm case and features a slim movement openworked in a new contemporary style and endowed with a tourbillon (a reminder that in 1986 Audemars Piguet was the first to incorporate a tourbillon within a wristwatch). It also has a power reserve indicator on the back of the movement. In platinum it is limited to 40 engraved and numbered timepieces.
The Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak Limited Edition in a 39 mm case is just like the original, powered by a movement that is only 3.05 mm high and entirely openworked, including its suspended spring barrel. In addition to the skeletonization performed in an extremely modern spirit, the anthracite color achieved by galvanic treatment gives it a resolutely contemporary appearance. In platinum it is limited to 40 engraved and numbered timepieces.

Hidden star: Royal Oak Chronograph
If re-editions are usually favored by a more sophisticated, knowledgeable consumer, then the Extra-Thin Royal Oak is the one to look for since it comes as close as possible to the original. It has the same 39 mm case and the same movement as the inaugural model (the 3.05 mm extra-thin mechanical self-winding Caliber 2121 with window date) in addition to the "Petite Tapisserie" pattern on the dial that was characteristic of the 1972 Royal Oak. This pattern is crafted in-house at Audemars Piguet using historical machines now called pantographs. Other historical nods include the blue dial and white gold AP initials placed at 6 o'clock just like 40 years ago. It comes in steel and pink gold.
The Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon in a 41 mm pink gold case with a deep-blue dial inspired by the "Petite Tapisserie" motif and the original color of the first Royal Oak created in 1972 is now graced with pink gold hands and hour markers. In addition to the tourbillon appearing at 6 o'clock, it boasts a power reserve indicator divided into five segments and placed on the back so as not to disturb the dial.

The Royal Oak Chronograph is the understated star of the collection and even of the whole SIHH 2012: the chronograph function gives the original luxury sports watch an even sportier personality and the new 41 mm size will appeal to all those looking for a contemporary sporty-elegant timepiece with an iconic aura from a prestigious manufacture. The applied AP initials placed just above the logo are more discreet than on other models. A double hour marker appears at 12 o'clock, inspired by the first Royal Oak watches launched in 1972. The subdials and their inner graduated scales have been redesigned so as to further improve their legibility. It comes in steel or pink gold on a leather strap.
In a new 41 mm size, the Selfwinding Royal Oak is the core of the new Royal Oak collection. Its dial boasts a "Grande Tapisserie" pattern that is now a signature for all self-winding Royal Oak models and the applied AP initials appearing just above the logo are more discreet than on the previous 39 mm version, leaving room at 12 o'clock for a double hour marker inspired by the 1972 original Royal Oak. Plus, there's a new triple-blade folding clasp distinguished by a double-safety fastening system. It comes in steel with a black, silver or blue dial.

Smaller wrists
The Selfwinding Royal Oak 37 represents a new, eclectic midsize that can suit a wide range of consumers - from juniors with generous fathers to ladies and smaller Asian wrists. The "Grande Tapisserie" pattern indicates it has an automatic movement: Caliber 3120 with a 60-hour power reserve. It is available in various steel or pink gold versions with a plain or gem-set bezel, a black or silver-toned dial, and a leather strap or a steel or pink gold bracelet.
Last but not least, the Quartz Royal Oak 33 is a new, smaller model whose proportions better replicate the original Royal Oak, though it is powered by a quartz movement. It is available in stainless steel with a diamond-cut bezel, in steel with a black or white leather strap, or in a pink gold version with a white or brown rubber strap or a pink gold bracelet.