Panerai - Boutique reopening in Milan
Located in the heart of the city, at via Montenapoleone 1, in one of the world's most famous luxury shopping streets, the new Panerai boutique reopens its doors just a few metres from the one inaugurated in 2011, and offers enthusiasts of the Florentine brand a larger space over three floors, with two vast shop windows overlooking the prestigious street.
The concept and materials are the perfect expression of the philosophy and history of Panerai with clear references to its Florentine origins and the world of the sea, reflecting the historic role it played in supplying precision instruments to the special units of the Italian Navy between the 1930s and 1950s.
The classic and unique materials chosen by Patricia Urquiola, the celebrated Spanish designer, are oak, calacatta luccicoso marble, burnished brass, bronze and special glass, "ribbed" and transparent, a clear reference to the world of the sea, as are the brass lamps and counters with their wooden details.
The boutique is welcoming, sophisticated, contemporary and elegant: as well as admiring the technical beauty of Panerai watches, here clients can relax in a luxurious, intimate space.
With the opening of these new boutiques designed by Urquiola, Officine Panerai now has 65 boutiques in the world, five of which are in Italy (Milan, Florence San Giovanni and Florence Four Seasons, Venice and Portofino).
Panerai - Luminor 1950 3 days - 47 mm
In the 1930s and 1940s the names Radiomir and Luminor identified the luminous materials used by Officine Panerai to increase the night-time and underwater visibility of the dials of the watches designed for the commandos of the Italian Navy. Over the years, these two terms have come to identify the two different case shapes of the iconic watches of the brand, one of which is a development of the other. In fact, the Luminor case came into being as a result of the need to make the Radiomir case still more water-resistant. To this end, the bridge device with clamping lever was added, protecting the winding crown and making it more water-resistant, while the large, straight lugs, milled with the case from a single block of metal, replaced the wire strap attachments, welded in place.
For the first time, a new Officine Panerai model uses a unique case which marks the historic development of the Radiomir case: the Luminor 1950 3 Days - 47 mm. The Luminor 1950 of the new model, executed in polished steel in the classic size of 47 mm, has a rounded, cuspshaped caseband, directly descended from the cushion design of the case which still today is characteristic of Radiomir watches.
Other details concern the constant search for the best blend between recovering the past and researching for innovation: the flat back with the large sapphire crystal window which enables the manufacturemovement to be seen; the slightly narrower lugs which give a greater impetus to the whole; the Plexiglas® crystal; the engraving of the reference between the lugs, for the first time in the recent history of Officine Panerai but in this case directly derived from the historic originals; and the inscription "Luminor Panerai" which is no longer printed, but engraved on the dial in the lettering of the period.
The dial too confirms Officine Panerai's commitment to authenticity and loyalty to tradition: it employs the sandwich construction which provides excellent visibility under all conditions, as a result of the large quantity of luminous material which is applied between the two thin sheets forming the dial, the radiance of which appears through the figures and the hour markers cut through the upper plate. The hour and minute hands are also covered with the same ecrucoloured luminous material.
The new Luminor 1950 3 Days - 47 mm is fitted with the P.3000 calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement entirely designed and developed by the Officine Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel. With a diameter of 16½ lignes, the P.3000 has the characteristic structure of large bridges, two spring barrels providing a power reserve of three days and a variable inertia, 13,2 mm balance wheel which enables the rate of the watch to be adjusted quickly and easily by means of the screws positioned externally around the rim.
Identified by the reference PAM00372, 3,000 units of the Luminor 1950 3 Days - 47 mm are being made. It is supplied with a leather strap - with vintage treatment making it very similar to the straps of the models of the time - closed by the classic Panerai buckle in brushed steel.
Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.3000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 16½ lignes, 5.3 mm thick, 21 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/ hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 160 components.
Functions: Hours, minutes.
Case: Diameter 47 mm, polished steel.
Bezel: Polished steel.
Back: See-through sapphire crystal.
Device protecting the crown: (protected as a Trademark) Brushed steel.
Dial: Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers.
Crystal: Plexiglas®, 3 mm thick.
Water-resistance: 10 bar (~100 metres).
Strap: PANERAI personalised leather strap and large-size brushed steel buckle. Supplied with a second interchangeable strap and a steel screwdriver.
Reference: PAM00372.
Calibre P.3000Entirely designed, developed and produced in the Officine Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, the hand-wound P.3000 calibre presents the main characteristics of the Panerai movements both in terms of structure and in terms of performance, robustness, accuracy and its long power reserve.
The thickness of the calibre P.3000 is 5.3 mm and the diameter is 16½ lignes, a substantial size which traces its origins from that of the movements which were fitted to the historic Panerai models. The calibre is immediately recognisable by its construction, which is similar to that of a three-quarter plate movement: a large bridge, next to another smaller one, covers the majority of the mechanical parts and it is fixed to the bottom plate by a series of screws of substantial thickness, thus forming a particularly rigid structure.
The movement has 21 jewels and it uses two spring barrels connected in series. Such an arrangement enables long, thin springs to be used, which ensures the delivery of a more even force and also does so over a longer period of time, with a power reserve of 3 days. The balance wheel is unusually large (13.2 mm) and it is the variable inertia type, with four adjusting screws arranged externally round the ring, so that the rate can be regulated without it being necessary to remove the whole assembly. Supported by a bridge with twin supports - a fixing much safer and more stable compared to the cantilevered single bridge - the balance wheel oscillates at a frequency of 3 Hz, equivalent to 21,600 alternations per hour. It is fitted with an Incabloc® antishock device and is free-sprung, so there is no regulating lever.
With brush-finished bridges and chamfered angles - that is, with the angles smoothed and polished - the P.3000 calibre is also fitted with the device for the rapid adjustment of the time: a star wheel with 12 points and a small spring clutch enable the hour hand to be moved one hour at a time, without interfering with the movement of the minute hand or the operation of the watch.
Functions
-Hours, minutes, small seconds
Technical specifications
-Hand-wound
-Power reserve 3 days
-160 components
-21 jewels.
-16½ lignes in diameter
-5.3 mm thick
-Two spring barrels
-Frequency of oscillation 3 Hz
-Incabloc® anti-shock device
[Rating: 5 / 5 stars]
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