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Top Quality Oris Silver Watches (99) Items
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Top Quality Oris Silver Watches (99) Items
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  • Louis Moinet - Memoris chronograph-watch

    Barely ten years in the business, the revived Louis Moinet brand faced an incredible challenge after the surprise discovery just two years ago that the famous watchmaker after whom the brand is named had actually invented the first chronograph in 1815, predating Adolphe Nicole's patent of 1862 by nearly a half a century. Not only had Moinet produced the stopwatch far ahead of its time, he had also created one that operated at a frequency that even today is unimaginable. The device was called a "compteur de tierce", since a "tierce" in the French of the time meant one sixtieth of a second. To measure this, the world's first chronograph operated at 216,000 vibrations per hour, or a frequency of 10 Hz.

    But back to the challenge: The horological world, and Louis Moinet, celebrate the bi-centenary of the invention this year and in just two years the brand had to come up with something that would celebrate its tenth anniversary and do justice to its newly discovered watchmaking heritage. The result is the Memoris, the world's first "chronograph-watch". Put simply, it turns the usual chronograph movement configuration on its head: the chronograph functions are housed on top of the movement mainplate and the timekeeping elements effectively become a "complication" hidden beneath them.

    The chronograph deconstructed
    The fact that Louis Moinet has given pride of place to the chronograph mechanism means that its workings are laid bare and can be admired in all their detail, without any elements of the timekeeping functions obstructing them. At the heart of the chronograph is a column wheel, which is the most essential of the 147 components of the chronograph mechanism (which in turn account for almost half of the 302 components in the watch). The column wheel is the central processor of the mechanism, translating the movement from each press on the monopusher into a rotation that either blocks or releases the components interacting with it (minute hammer, brake and clutch).

    Just as the column wheel is traditionally the sign of a superior chronograph, Louis Moinet believes that tradition also dictates that all three functions (stop, start and reset) should be activated by a single pushbutton, which is found at 2 o'clock on the case. Not wishing to push things to the extremes of the compteur des tierce and the headache that would cause for the power reserve, Louis Moinet has coupled its unique chronograph to a 4 Hz movement in its LM54 calibre, which offers 48 hours of power reserve and offers its own signature feature.

    Energie Plus
    Louis Moinet has devised its own automatic pawl winding system to get the most out of each swing of the oscillating mass. "Energie Plus" () consists of an excentric plate with two click levers in a "crab-claw" design and captures the movements of the oscillating mass in both directions to transmit 30% more energy to the barrel spring than a conventional self-winding system. Furthermore ultra-lightweight miniature ceramic ball bearings, each with a diameter of just 0.397mm, allow the bi-metallic oscillating mass to swing more freely and thus further improve the energy transmission.

    From scratch
    To house all 302 components of this movement, Louis Moinet redeveloped practically every element of what is known in French as the "habillage", in other words everything that "clothes" the movement. As such the case, hands, dial, oscillating weight and even the foldover clasp are new. The gold case alone consists of 52 individual components and includes a screw-on transparent case back, screwed-in black zircon settings on all four lugs and a patent pending crown protector.

    Only 180 of the memorable Memoris chronograph-watches will be made, 60 in 18-carat red gold, 60 in 18-carat white gold with a rhodium-plated mainplate and 60 in 18-carat white gold with a blued mainplate.

  • HYT - Dominique Renaud joins HYT

    At the new HYT headquarters on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel, CEO Vincent Perriard yesterday presented master watchmaker Dominique Renaud as an important new addition to the brand's fast-growing team.

    Although Renaud will continue the activites under the umbrella of his own company, Dominique Renaud SA, based in Eysins in the canton of Vaud, he will become the main human interface between watchmaking in the classic sense and the advanced fluid technology that is unique to HYT.

    Renaud has already been working behind the scenes with HYT over the past few months but will now spearhead the setting-up of production and assembly facilities at the new lakeside premises in Neuchâtel. He will be responsible for complications at the brand and one of his main remits will be to find innovative ways to provide more power from the movement to drive more fluidic indications on the dial.

    Over the medium to long term, Vincent Perriard even promises a "paradigm shift" in watchmaking, which he compares to inventions as significant as the tourbillon or the perpetual calendar. Although he was cagey about the details, the general hint is that the fluids (which are developed, produced and assembled in modules at the sister company Preciflex in the centre of Neuchâtel) will actually be integrated within the watch movement in the future.

    "We have some innovative ideas under development, advancements that will bring much more power to the motorisation of HYT's movements. This in turn will allow us to introduce even more complications that unite mechanics and liquid in one wristwatch," he said.

  • Linde Werdelin - The Oktopus Tattoo


    Linde Werdelin, the leading sports watches and attachable instruments manufacturer, is proud to present the latest addition to the Oktopus family to be unveiled at BaselWorld 2010, the Oktopus Tattoo. A true example of art and craftsmanship, the steel case of the Oktopus Tattoo has been fully engraved with an octopus tattoo design especially drawn for the model by Danish tattoo artist Henning Jensen. Powered by a Frederic Piguet movement (calibre 1150) the new Oktopus model also bears distinctive dial details, which add to its unique allure of the LW diver watches.


    Due to the complexity of engraving the tattoo design on the case, a breakdown of the procedure into steps was necessary to ensure that the precision of the design was kept. Using a 5-axis CNC machine, each of the 18 engraved facets of the case had to be treated separately and the machine manually adjusted before each facet being engraved with a precision of 80 nanometres to achieve such a detailed result. Keeping the consistency of the design, the hands on the dial of the Oktopus Tattoo are designed to resemble the tentacles of an octopus and are enhanced with Super LumiNova for a greater effect in the dark or sea depth. The new model has been tested to withstand the pressure of 1111 meters and the integrated helium escape valve at 9 o'clock ensures the watch endures the pressure during resurface time.
    "Choosing the octopus was straightforward for me. I find it incredibly intriguing. It is a great diver, considered to be highly intelligent and moves very elegantly and fast, if needed, partly due to the lack of a skeleton. It is also known to be great in camouflage and has an excellent sense of touch and keen eyesight", says Morten Linde creative director and co-founder of LW.


    The art of tattooing began over 5,000 years ago. It is a diverse form of art symbolising different things for different cultures and people. In some cases, tattoos were seen to have a magical significance or spiritual power, which often meant for guarding people's health and spiritual well-being. Nowadays, the significance of a tattoo has changed form and is seen as a way to express and distinct oneself from others, by decorating their body with a design that often has a special personal meaning.
    In a similar way, the Oktopus Tattoo is a special watch project that aims to form a unique and distinctive bond between the watch and its owner. While a lot of the engraving can be seen on the top of the case, most of the octopus design has been kept for the back-case and personal admiration of the watch owner.
    To maximise the Linde Werdelin sporting experience of the Oktopus Tattoo, LW has designed and created the Reef Tattoo using the same technique as the watch. Instead of an octopus though the Reef bears tattoo engravings or a shark on the top of its anodised aluminium case and a colour drawing of the tattoo design on the opening screen of the instrument.


    "The Oktopus Tattoo is a very special project to me. I see it as a contemporary piece of art for one's wrist, Linde Werdelin's first lifestyle watch where body art meets Haute Horlogerie" notes Morten Linde. Limited to 82 pieces, the Oktopus Tattoo is available to pre-order on LindeWerdelin.com or from any LW authorised retailer.

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