Baume & Mercier - The New Hampton Collection
0:01 15-8-2011
The museum piece from the 1940s, with its obvious classicism tempered by the delicacy of the case and a curved cave side, the satined domed volume and the enhanced curved sapphire crystal, is an ideal foundation on which to build a new standard for shaped watches.
The watch has a rectangular shape while giving due attention to comfort on the wrist, for a piece that is as pleasant to look at as it is to wear.
The Hampton spirit has already been breathed into these delicate, architectural lines.
At the Heart of Baume & Mercier's New Universe
Since 1830, Baume & Mercier has been designing watches of the highest quality that are endowed with lasting appeal thanks to their classic, timeless esthetic. For 180 years, men's and ladies' timepieces have followed one another in succession - sometimes iconic, sometimes inspired, but always dedicated to excellence and always with the same calling: the creations by the Swiss Maison d'Horlogerie have the ability to fix our milestone moments in life to our memory.
In speaking to those who combine the art of living with stylish elegance, Baume & Mercier is well-known for its lifestyle calling. This desire to match those who wear the watches as closely as possible, to reflect their lifestyle and values, is now expressed in a new brand universe that was successfully unveiled at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2011.
Seaside Living in the Hamptons
It was natural for Baume & Mercier to turn to the seaside to embody its new area of expression. This unchanging refuge, where the passing of eternity is measured by the rhythm of the surf, is the perfect place for a remembrance of things past. Above all, the seaside evokes a lifestyle that bears a close relationship to the Maison's values of authenticity and continuity.
The Hamptons, on Long Island, New York, echo this seaside lifestyle perfectly. With their magnificent residences rising at the foot of the dunes, easy living coupled with intense artistic, cultural and social activity, and a light unlike that found anywhere else, the Hamptons are the refuge of those who appreciate the charms of discreet luxury. Here, you can stroll, warmed by the slight breeze against your favorite cashmere sweater. A blanket spread on the beach or a weathered deck is an invitation to an impromptu picnic. You end the day barefoot in the sand, sipping a great vintage.
Harbingers of Elegance
Like a prelude to the world of seaside living in the Hamptons, the Hampton collection introduced in 1994 and now reinterpreted captures the indescribable beauty of these spaces between land and sea and the discreet, relaxed sophistication of their residents.
Falling squarely within Baume & Mercier's territory, this collection gives pride of place to the sheer luxury of existing and a certain notion of pronounced elegance.
Intimate harmony
At the end of Highway 27 on Long Island lies a calm world where elegance is expressed in tiny pointillist strokes, like the neo-impressionist paintings of the first artists who settled in the Hamptons. Dandies in linen suits and young ladies in hats would sharpen their tastes by going from one studio to the next, ending up on the beach with a great vintage brought from Old Europe.
These days, Hamptonites get together for private viewings or horse shows, with savoir-vivre as their only watchword, a relaxed way of living out one's style, unostentatiously yet self-assertively.
The Hampton collection fully captures the spirit of this magical place - as well as the heritage of Baume & Mercier. In fact, it was a museum piece from the 1940s that served as the basis for the interpretation that gives the 2011 Hampton watches their very distinctive character.
The assurance of the original Art-Deco inspired timepiece remains, captured in a satined domed volume at 12 and 6 o'clock, a generously enhanced curved sapphire crystal, and a curved case side at 3 and 9 o'clock. Assertively modern accents, such as the refined sword hands, have been added to the Hampton collection to place them in a context of modern elegance. Both the ladies' Hampton line and the men's are the very picture of elegance.
Ladies' Hampton
The ladies' pieces, generously sized (27 x 40 mm), have kept the highly distinctive satined domed volume and curved case side of the museum watch. On the Core Collection models, the wristband is made of alligator or satin-finished polished steel, with the polished finish extending from the case to the outer links in a sophisticated touch.
Another signature feature of the collection is the "jodhpur" shape of the wristband, which makes it lighter and more comfortable on the wrist. The strap is offered in satin or alligator. Also noteworthy is the perfect integration between the case and the bracelet which extends the piece's fluid lines.
The high-end models are adorned with two types of settings. In the first, 20 diamonds (total 0.73 carats) are set in the curved case side of a version with a silvered dial featuring a sunburst satin finish on the outer part and opaline finishes in the center, or an equally chic two-toned dial in black and anthracite. The second type of setting has a double row of diamonds on the satined domed volume at 12 and 6 o'clock; these 36 diamonds (0.48 carats) accentuate the piece's natural sophistication.
Finally, the collection's emblematic ladies piece has a fully-set case - lugs, satined domed volume and curved case side - that beautifully enhances the silvered dial and harmonizes with the purity of the white alligator strap. It is the highlight of the Hampton ladies' collection, and it consists of 80 diamonds for a total of 1.78 carats.
The case back is decorated with a "Sundeck decor" designed by Baume & Mercier to allow for the watch to be personalized with a word or message of affection.
Men's Hampton
The men's pieces exist in a self-winding version with a small seconds hand at 6 o'clock, a size of 32 x 45 mm and an ETA 2895 movement; or an automatic chronograph version with counters sporting just a touch of red to dress up the dial, a size of 30 x 47 mm, and an ETA 2894 movement.
The dial palette for the automatic and automatic chronograph versions, always two-tone, was selected for its warm masculine hues, such as the combination of black and brown, or black and anthracite. It is offset by a satined domed volume that lends force and character to the piece. A straight alligator strap with an adjustable triple folding clasp adds the finishing touch to this timepiece.
While the case middle's sides are straight in the Core Collection, the two emblematic pieces most resemble the piece that inspired them, with their highly stylized evocation of its Art Deco lines. It is pleasing to rediscover the famous curved case side, but on a larger case suitable for men who know their worth.
The emblematic pieces are available in a steel automatic chronograph version (34 x 47 mm) with a manufacture movement, a power reserve of 65 hours and an open case back that reveals the oscillating weight personalized with the phi symbol. The red gold version offers a manual manufacture movement having a 42-hour power reserve and a superb oval open case back.
Unlike the Core Collection watches, which feature riveted Arabic numerals, the emblematic pieces remain true to Roman numerals, with the intent of perpetuating the historic model.
Daring to revisit the striking characteristics of the museum piece, taking the interpretation exercise as far as it will go by enhancing the original esthetic while giving it impressive modern proportions—such is the challenge of the Hampton collection, the Swiss Maison d'Horlogerie has met expertly.
A shaped watch is never conventional or "safe."
And that is all the truer when it is the Hampton from Baume & Mercier.
Hampton Collection,
Story of an Exercise in Style by the Design Studio
Adapting historic models is a difficult exercise that requires a truly conceptual view. We hear from Alexandre Peraldi, Director of the Design Studio - Baume & Mercier's integrated creative unit.
Where did you get your inspiration for this collection?
Alexandre Peraldi: The source of our inspiration, as with our other lines, Linea and Capeland, is Baume & Mercier's territory - seaside living in the Hamptons. We were in the Hamptons and we brought back films and photos, thousands of images that we drew upon for weeks to define the design codes for all our collections.
And what came of this in-depth consideration of the Hamptons?
AP: The Hamptons means, first, an environment bathed in a special light that softens shades of color and gives them warmth. We translated this in our own way by choosing to use red gold on some pieces, giving them a warm coppery brilliance. On the dials, we took the route of playing on a subtle association of two colors, without contrasting them. In our palette, gray goes with slate and white with silver, to name a few.
But above all, the Hamptons mean a lifestyle, a true "state of mind." It is the artists' job to reflect this type of relaxed elegance so characteristic of the residents there. For us, it was portrayed by a curved and generously-sized shape, easy on the eyes and easy to wear.
Did you use a historic watch as a reference point in your creative development process?
AP: In fact we did. It was a piece from the 1940s which shows distinct signs of persistent Art Deco influences. At that time, the focus was on simple lines, straight shapes inspired by cubist painting and by architecture. In contrast, the watch that served as our inspiration was decorated with Roman numerals, which we replaced with more modern Arabic numerals for the Hampton Core Collection. During the research phase, each Arabic numeral was thought out, drawn and reworked to obtain a final version that had the best balance between ease of reading and generous sizing.
What is your favorite part of the Hampton watch?
The crystal and its very pure pronounced curve are some of the defining elements of this collection. First, the crystal is the product of technical expertise. But it goes far beyond that. This shape produces a prism effect. Depending on the angle from which you see your watch, you discover it anew every time you look at it. That creates a real interaction between the timepiece and the wearer.
The strap on the ladies' watches is shaped differently than that on the men's. Why?
AP: In the prototype phase, we did some tests to find the most elegant way to attach the wristband. We wanted a strap with some body to it that would harmonize with the watch but also with a lady's wrist. We chose a "jodhpur" shape, which flares out at the case and is also a nod to the town of Bridgehampton, which hosts hundreds of equestrians every year. This wristband fits in very well with the world of Baume & Mercier.
In the end, does the piece we can admire and wear today look like your very first draft sketches?
AP: For twelve months, we were drawing it in pencil, then on the computer, first in two dimensions and then in three. Development was done together with the marketing teams and our "Maitrise d'Oeuvre". The Hampton collection is made up of watches that have complicated components such as the crystal, which is thick but must be visually delicate. When you resolve the technical constraints, you bring in a new esthetical dimension. It's a virtuous circle that in the end leads to something that may be a bit different from what you had designed in the beginning, but is better. And that is extraordinary.
Case:
- Rectangular
- Size : 34.3 x 48.4 mm
- Thickness : 12.85 mm
- Polished / satin-finished steel
- Curved sapphire crystal
- Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial :
- Sun satin-finished anthracite & opaline black
- Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Black alligator
Buckle : Adjustable triple folding buckle
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
[Rating: 5 / 5 stars]
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