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Top Quality Ulysse Nardin Black Watches (100) Items
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Top Quality Ulysse Nardin Black Watches (100) Items
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Replica Ulysse Nardin Black Watches Latest Reviews

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  • Watch Selection - Ari by Eva Leube


    WORLDTEMPUS - 8 December 2010


    There is a reason that Ari made it all the way to the final three of the category it was entered into at this year's Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve. That reason is that this watch is incredibly fresh and out-of-the ordinary while at the same time able to incite intense emotions in watch enthusiasts.


    Four years in the making, Leube showed debuted Ari at the A.H.C.I. booth this year at Baselworld. She was certainly not prepared for the onslaught of attention this unusual watch brought her. It seemed to me as if the watch world had just been waiting for such a spectacularly emotional timepiece. Admittedly, for me it was emotional because Leube is a woman, and women master watchmakers branching out on their own in grand A.H.C.I. fashion is about as rare as it comes. It takes thick skin, dedication, perseverance and training like no other - all of which Leube most certainly received when she worked for Thomas Prescher in his Twann-based workshop. She relates that further experience gathered by working with Rolex, Ulysse Nardin and even in restoration has also shaped her unique skill set.
    Leube rearranged and modified vintage Record pocket watch Caliber 302 to fit her timepiece measuring 52 x 21 mm. To do this, she practically turned the movement upside down and made a new hand-setting mechanism to accommodate both this and a crown now positioned at 6 o'clock (rather than 3 o'clock). It travels half the length of the movement and goes around the spring barrel. "The curve of Ari's movement is so pronounced that the whole mechanism had to be completely reconceived," she told me at Baselworld. Additionally, the beating heart of the watch - the escapement and balance -remain visible from the front. All of this is no mean feat considering the extreme curvature of the entire ensemble.


    In gold or platinum, each watch is only manufactured upon order and each will be delivered with a strap that has been custom-made for its new owner, whether this owner is male or female. The first connoisseur to have ordered Ari is, indeed, male.

    GO TO 2011 SELECTION

  • Distribution - Retailers Need Alternatives to Big Brands


    WORLDTEMPUS - 27 October 2011
    After having been in charge of the regional sales for the Movado brand and holding the position of commercial director of Vacheron Constantin for North America, Norm Kushner became president of Rabco Luxury Holdings, LLC in 2000, which carried brands as varied as Breguet, Graham, Arnold and Eberhard & Co. When this firm disbanded in 2010, Kushner founded Swiss Watch Consultants, his own distribution company based in Manchester, New Hampshire. It currently represents Eberhard & Co and Glycine. Considering the increase of mono- and multi-brand boutiques run by watch groups, he is of the opinion that independent brands will become the preferred alternative for retailers in the next five years.

    Anaïs Georges du Clos: You think that independent distribution in North America is going through a deep structural evolution. Why?
    Norm Kushner: In the old days, the only way for a brand to conquer the American market was to work with a local distributor who had good relations with specialized retailers. In the last several years, big independent brands like Audemars Piguet and Ulysse Nardin have founded their own distribution structures. In parallel, prestigious brands like Cartier, Omega and Hublot have started to open their own boutiques in every big American city. This integration strategy, which leads to a maximization of margins, penalizes both distributors and retailers.
    How?
    Brands that now own their own boutiques stopped working with many independent retailers. Omega is a perfect example with its 21 shops throughout the USA. Omega only works with one retailer in Manhattan: Kenjo. Brands also invest a lot in communication to promote their own boutiques and reserve special or limited editions for them.
    Can you quantify this phenomenon?
    After SIHH 2011, I estimate that 15 percent of North American retailers lost their agreements with important brands.
    Which cities are most affected?
    The biggest ones first: New York, Los Angeles, Beverly Hills, Miami, Chicago. In these cities, there are mono-brand boutiques of Richemont brands like Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and Panerai, and the multi-brand Tourbillon shops (Swatch Group) have also increased. Mid-sized cities are also affected, but are less easy to work in without the help of big local retailers.

    Do you think this evolution is definitive?
    In the end, I imagine that big brands' watches will only be available in their own boutiques.
    What are the consequences for distributors and agents?
    As the groups don't want to work with them anymore, they'll have to find alternatives. The independent brands are interesting, also because they don't have enough resources to behave as the big brands do. For them, the agent and the distributor are the best interlocutors. For the latter, the risk is immense as he has to finance a stock of hundreds of watches. Thus, he works almost like a bank during the time the orders are being taken, and is paid only when the retailer can remit. This period can last up to a hundred days. This is the reason why distributors like us zero in on independent brands who enjoy a worldwide reputation and proven financial stability.
    What impact does this integration process have on brands that belong to groups?
    In the short term, sales decrease and brands make less money in comparison with the time they were working with independent retailers. But, the difference becomes less and less significant with time. In the end, the benefit should probably justify the groups' choices. For independent brands, this tendency will create interesting opportunities in the next five years, but only if they invest in communication. As contracts last three to five years, brands have to support these costs.

    And for retailers?

    If they want to remain in competition, they must continue to buy large quantities to maintain their margins. Some of them chose an other strategy by opening monobrand boutiques next to their multibrands points of sell.
    Are brands so powerful that retailers want to continue to work with them, whatever the price of it may be?
    If retailers can afford important sacrifices to stay with the brands they know, then the decision must be based on the profitability of the deal. Many retailers have given up working with certain significant brands.
    What is the impact of this tendency on the customer?
    Mathematically, we should see more independent watch brands in retail shops. As for products from group-associated brands, discounts should be harder to negotiate now.

  • Ulysse Nardin - Personal Memories of Rolf


    WORLDTEMPUS - 15 April 2011


    Yesterday marked the unexpected passing of Rolf Schnyder, a man whose actions in the watch industry have changed the face of it forever. When Rolf Schnyder bought Ulysse Nardin in 1983, he saved not only a traditional family business in danger of going under in the flood of quartz. It was at that point that Rolf began showing his stuff, laying the groundwork for a wealth of visionary art that looks to the future without forgetting the past.


    Rolf, who celebrated his 75th birthday this past year, still had the energy to lead his company's impulses and be present at all the important milestones it was involved in. On the Wednesday evening of Baselworld's press day, just three weeks ago, in front of hundreds of guests he spoke of the recent advances his company had made and looked eagerly toward an interesting future. His company's biggest advance of last year was announced just five months ago in Sion: it concerned another joint venture called Diamaze, this time in the realm of diamond use. Rolf made Ulysse Nardin's advances—which include the Sigatec joint venture for silicon—available for all to use. While he could have chosen to keep this progressive research exclusively for his own company's employ, he shared these services with any other firms who cared to use it.
    Like all of us, Rolf has grown with this industry. Unlike all of us, he had the foresight and vision to make real changes and follow a direction of belief that has enabled the watch world to enjoy works of art that would otherwise have never come to be. One such example is his longtime friendship with Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, which resulted from his search for the right partner to help fulfill the original vision he had of mechanical art. Together they created masterpieces at a time when it was considered entrepreneurial suicide to do so.


    Rolf Schnyder was born in Zurich in 1935. An entrepreneurial adventurer right from the beginning, he got to know the world of watches and other cultures through his marketing work with Jaeger-LeCoultre, after which he joined the Diethelm company in Thailand, where he also learned the local language. In 1966 he became responsible for Philip Morris's Asian dealings, though watches seemed to remain his focus. In 1968 he co-founded the first company in southwestern Asia to manufacture components for the watch industry. After setting up this enterprise, he left Thailand for Malaysia, establishing his own company in Kuala Lumpur in 1975. Precima specializes in the fabrication of dials, supplying a number of Swatch Group companies and other high-end brands, as well as electronic components that are supplied to the likes of ETA, Nivarox and Comadur. He later divested himself of these other entrepreneurial interests to devote his full energy to Ulysse Nardin
    During a visit to his homeland in 1982 he discovered that Ulysse Nardin had been put up for sale. Backed by a number of investors and friends, he bought the company and its excellent reputation one year later, aiming to fill the then-empty shell with mechanical delicacies intended to aid in resuscitating the beached brand and, by extension, the lagging mechanical watch industry. Although Rolf's background to that point lay in marketing, he was in no way driven by market research—but rather a far-sighted dream.


    Ulysse Nardin's ongoing research and longtime employees—who have remained loyal to Rolf and the company despite their own success—have made this company a leader in its field. The remaining leaders, among them Pierre Gygax, Lucas Humair, Susanne Hurni and Patrick Hoffmann, will continue to guide Ulysse Nardin as Rolf would have wanted within a predetermined structure. In fact, Rolf has left behind a plan for the continuation, parts of which fans of the brand will see when the timing is right. "He was an excellent teacher," Susanne told me this morning. "We will continue to work as he wished."
    Rolf will be buried in Kuala Lumpur on Monday during a ceremony with his immediate family. Rolf lived in Malaysia with his wife and three children, but was often in Switzerland at his second home in Neuchâtel and other countries in the service of his beloved brand. A memorial in Switzerland is planned for a later date.

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