Escapements - A headlong race
The escapement is the organ that performs the fundamental measurement of time inside a movement. It is the place where energy becomes information. In this respect, it may be regarded as a mechanical processor. In recent years, innovations on the regulating organ had tended to concentrated on one particular area, as silicon made a noteworthy entrance into watches' very heart. Although this material does indeed represent a minirevolution, it takes the place of other materials within escapements, and the latter are almost exclusively of the Swiss-lever type. There has however been a recent shift in this focus.
Horological history has been largely written in terms of the progress made on this part of the movement. The lever escapement established itself along with the wristwatch, as the bulkier and more energy-hungry and detent and pin-pallet types with their respective variations gradually disappeared along with the pocket watch. It was not until 1990s, when Omega acquired the patents for the co-axial escapement invented by Georges Daniel, that a new system made a front-stage appearance - and even then, the co-axial is merely an incremental improvement of the Swiss lever escapement, that Omega has since begun to use in a number of its models.
Then in 2011, Urban Jurgensen announced that it has succeeded in miniaturizing the detent escapement. This is no mean feat, since this type is reputed to be both fragile and capricious. On a similar note, Christophe Claret presented the Maestoso at Baselworld 2014, equipped with a fully operational detent escapement of which several have already been made, including several acquired by Bulgari for its Ammiraglio Del Tempo. This strange system conceals its mode of operation, since the balance oscillates, the seconds hand moves on, but the detent itself makes such tiny and quick jumps that one cannot help wondering whether it is actually working.
A shared quest
Interest in detent escapements goes back a long way, since it used to be known as the "chronometer escapement". This was the type equipping marine timepieces that used to be of such vital use to sailors in maritime navigation. There is another type of historical escapement, the so-called echappement naturel that dates back to a concept invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Since 2011, four brands have presented their own version. Those by F.P. Journe, Laurent Ferrier and Kari Voutilainen use comparable principles, while the fourth and typically standout variation stems from Ulysse Nardin. To emphasize its resolutely vanguard approach, the latter now also offers its third innovative in-house escapement, a variation on the lever escapement, made of silicon like its recent predecessors. It belongs to the new family of systems distinguished by their geometry and their sophistication - the most famous being Girard-Perregaux's Constant Escapement. Its highly complex butterfly shape stems precisely from its constant-force nature expressed in the name. It is also the only concept that regulates both the rhythm of the oscillations and the force transmitted to the balance - a guarantee of precision timekeeping.
While undoubtedly both difficult and costly, research in the domain of escapements is also a ticket to glory when it yields results. Nonetheless, with the notably exception of Omega, it remains the preserve of small and medium-sized brands that remain dedicated to faithfully perpetuating this noble heritage.
Ulysse Nardin - Get Your Freak On
Somehow it has become a tradition here at Worldtempus to "test drive" a spectacular watch during the Baselworld week. Two years ago, we kicked off with the Corum Ti-Bridge Tourbillon. Last year we had the pleasure of walking around all week with a De Bethune DB28 on our wrists. This year was no exception, and I almost shrieked with joy when Ulysse Nardin CEO Patrik Hoffmann strapped the Freak Diavolo to my wrist the day before the fair opened.
A little history
For those who may not know, the Freak was introduced in 2001 and has performed a grand service to not only Ulysse Nardin, but actually the watch industry at large. This spectacular watch was created and evolved by several of our industry's top minds, names that ring like sweet little bells when it comes to ideas and engineering: Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, Rolf Schnyder, Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Lucas Humair, Sandrine Benz and Pierre Gygax. Every one of them contributed something special to the project and all of them have treated this spectacular timepiece like a scientific, experimental laboratory - which is a good thing for the whole mechanical watch industry. Forestier-Kasapi (who was once head watchmaker at Ulysse Nardin) contributed the idea of the incredibly b mainspring that encircles the movement, which is wound by the back bezel; Schnyder and Gygax along with Benz brought in the new materials, primarily DRIE-etched silicon combined with LIGA materials and synthetic diamond; and Humair, as Ulysse Nardin's head movement designer, refined the movement structure.
Dual Direct
Though Oechslin's Dual Direct escapement is, in my opinion, the "heart" of the incredible Freak, the Freak Diavolo uses a Swiss lever escapement - though it is far from conventional since it was wholly created in the silicon process inherent to Ulysse Nardin's joint venture company Sigatec. Ulysse Nardin chose to use the Swiss lever escapement in this model because of a space issue; the Dual Direct takes up much more space, which could not be spared here thanks to the revolving flying tourbillon and the seconds display.
One of the most intriguing elements about the Freak Diavolo is its ticking. Because of the volume of the case that is not entirely filled out with components (most of them are visible on the dial), the ticking is particularly loud and resonant. Unusually, this also creates the illusion of faster ticking, which fooled me into thinking at first that it was the Dual Direct keeping the time here.
The Freak Diavolo is different from the other Freak models in that it allows a reading of seconds thanks to the addition of a flying tourbillon at the end of the minute hand, which carries a little second hand on the tourbillon cage with it. You can believe me when I tell you that this function is almost never used as the eye is directly entranced by the constant action on the dial - understandable since the entire movement except for the winding and the mainspring are visible on the dial and actually even function as the minute hand. However, if you want a to-the-second reading, it is there for you.
Accuracy
Because of the "thickness" of the minute and hour hands and tininess of the second indication, it is difficult to prove one way or another how accurate the Freak is, particularly if we are trying to see if it is chronometer-accurate. That can probably only be achieved with the use of a Witschi. For my purposes, I compared it every day to the time on my cell phone, and as far as that goes, it was completely accurate for the eight days I wore it. Through the course of the fair, however, reading the accuracy became increasingly difficult: it is a popular and fascinating watch, and almost everyone I came in contact with wanted to see it up close, which inevitably led to playing with the winding and setting functions done by turning the back and front bezels respectively. One clever little detail graces the Freak Diavolo that early incarnations of the Freak did not have: a latch to prevent the front bezel from accidentally turning. You must unhook the latch in order to be able to move the bezel. This is a grand addition to the Freak since the early editions had the problem of the hands moving accidentally.
A word on the power reserve and winding functions: I was stunned by the ease with which this manual watch was wound. Boasting a full eight days of power (thanks to the gigantic mainspring that coils around the entire movement, visible through a peephole in the back), I would not have needed to wind the watch had I not been curious about this function. All you have to do is grip the back bezel and give it a twist. One full rotation of the back bezel is equal to 12 hours of power reserve, and thus you do not have to spend much time or energy on this. Really magnificent. The time-setting using the front bezel can be done either forward or backward, a house specialty.
Wearing the unique Freak Diavolo felt like borrowing a piece of history. It made me proud to think of all the technology I was carrying around on my wrist, but other than having to look at the time, those were the only reasons I had to look at it. This wristwatch, which only comes in white gold, measures 44.5 mm x 13.6 mm - but I would never have known it as it hugged my little wrist so beautifully thanks to the short strap and the comfortable deployant clasp. Very unfortunately for me, while it is not limited, it is reserved for the very rich: it carries a price tag of $133,000. I will, however, continue to cherish my wearing experience.
[Rating: 5 / 5 stars]
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