A. Lange & Sohne Langematik Perpetual Platinum (310.025)

Founded in the town of Glashutte near Dresden in 1845 and revived in 1990 following German reunification, A. Lange & Söhne ranks at the peak of fine horological craftsmanship and is distinguished by its deliberately and distinctively Saxon style of watchmaking. Its movements feature all-of-a-piece three-quarter plates rather than the various bridges generally used in constructions such as those made by traditional Swiss manufacturers. These aesthetically restrained and robust calibres are nonetheless extremely refined. Connoisseurs can in particular spot them by their hand-engraved balance cocks, their swan neck regulator, their solid gold chatons and their "Glashutte stripes" or ribbed pattern.  Among the many innovations the art of horology owes to A. Lange & Söhne is the famous Big Date presented in 1994 with the first creations of the company's new era. This fact may well have been forgotten by some industry observers, given that this useful function has since become a widespread feature appearing in several different forms. Nonetheless, never before had any watchmaker opted to display such a generously sized date on a wristwatch. This exceptionally readable and particularly ingenious function garnered universal acclaim and has become the brand's signature complication. The patented mechanism was inspired by the five-minute clock of Dresden's Semper Opera House, itself created with the participation of Ferdinand A. Lange in 1841. It operates by means of a tens cross bearing a white blank space (for 0) and numerals 1 to 3 and a units disc bearing numerals 0 to 9 - with the tens and units displayed in two side-by-side apertures. The cross sweeps over the disc at such a close distance that it is almost imperceptible to the naked eye. For the automatic transition from the 31st of a month to the 1st of the next month, the cross moves over the blank space, while the disc stands still on the 1 for an additional day by means of a complex cam and lever system. Adjustments for months with less than 31 days are made by means of a dedicated corrector.  One can now observe the operation of this remarkable innovation that is generally concealed beneath the dial. This is a first now revealed in the Grande Lange 1 "Lumen" thanks to a semi-transparent dial specially designed for this purpose. Nonetheless, the Manufacture A. Lange & Söhne, engaged in a constant quest for perfection, did not stop there. The new Big Date is rendered equally readable by day or night thanks to various surface treatments. The black numerals on the tens cross are printed on backgrounds coated with a luminous material, while those on the units disc are printed on a transparent ring rotating above a luminous background. The sapphire dial topping these elements is also given a special coating that blocks most of the visible spectrum of light, apart from the UV rays that are effectively able to reach the luminous surfaces without hindrance.  This makes it possible to admire the circular-grained finish of the date plate.  The elegance of the Grande Lange 1 "Lumen" deserves a special mention. This model is driven by a hand-wound calibre that was completely resized last year and now features a larger diameter that entirely occupies the space available within the Grande Lange 1 case.  The watch thus echoes the initial configuration of the famous Lange 1 with its various non-overlapping hours, minutes, small seconds and power-reserve displays. Moreover, the increased diameter enabled a corresponding reduction in thickness, since more parts could be placed on the same level. It is also well worth noting that a single larger barrel ensures the same power reserve as the two previously used.