Patek Philippe - Complexity within, order and clarity outside
GMT XXL - Summer 2012
In 2012 Patek Philippe has launched new grand complication models, but has also enriched two of its iconic collections. On the classical side, the new Calatrava reaches a new paragon of sleek elegance. The timeless design of the round case with the smooth bezel was inspired by a late-1950s model with a slender, graceful silhouette. The manually wound movement can be admired through the display back. On the sports side, the Nautilus in steel shows off a new casually elegant face with a silverywhite dial that highlights the horizontally embossed pattern, a typical style element of this model family. For aficionados of this cult watch launched in 1976, it is an irresistible design variation. The contoured case, water resistant to 120 meters, incorporates a self-winding mechanical movement (Ref. 5711/1 A) and/or a chronograph (Ref. 5980/1A).
The new Ref. 5204 split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar is crafted with all meticulous attention to detail mandated by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal. Despite the complexity of the elaborate going train, the split-seconds chronograph, and the perpetual calendar, the well-organized dial presents the twelve separate indications with exemplary clarity and legibility. True to tradition, the day of the week and the month are displayed in two in-line apertures beneath 12 o'clock. The analog date dial at 6 o'clock incorporates the moon phases display. The continuous subsidiary seconds and the jumping 30-minute chronograph counter are located at 9 and 3 o'clock, respectively, in dials whose centers are shifted slightly below the horizontal centerline of the main dial. This layout is a typical design feature of the movement. The small round aperture between 4 and 5 o'clock indicates the leap-year cycle, and a second one between 7 and 8 o'clock accommodates the day/night indicator.
All the traditional assets that impress true connoisseurs are strengthened by the perpetual calendar presented to the world in 2011 in the Ref. 5270 and by its caliber with six patented innovations: optimized toothing profile, precision adjustment of engagement depth at the column wheel, optimized synchronization of the clutch lever and brake lever, slotted minute-counter cam, self-setting hammers, hammers pivoted between jewel bearings.
Besides, with Patek Philippe's quest for perfection, the workshops' caliber engineers developed two innovative solutions to improve the reliability of the split-seconds chronograph mechanism, for which a patent application has been filed. R&D concentrated on the isolator for the split-seconds lever (with the integrated swan's neck that serves as an isolator spring, the cap on the split-seconds column wheel has now been given an additional function as well), and on the mechanism for reducing the off set between the split-seconds and chronograph hands. This achievement was even more challenging in that the new split-seconds isolator mechanism consists of 42 parts and with a height of 1.7 mm.
As with all of the manufacture's platinum watches, the case is marked with a flawless Top Wesselton diamond discreetly set between the lugs at 6 o'clock, where it is noticed only by the wearer.
In the category of grand complications, which includes tourbillons, minute repeaters, or split-seconds chronographs, the perpetual calendar unquestionably offers the greatest everyday utility because it always indicates the correct date by taking into account the different durations of the months. Perpetual calendars were coveted complications in Patek Philippe pocket watches dating back to the 19th century. And when wristwatches became fashionable, the Manufacture in Geneva was the first to miniaturize the ingenious calendar mechanism to such a degree that it would fit in cases for the wrist, which incidentally were much smaller then than they are today. The ultra-thin self-winding Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3940 has ranked among Patek Philippe's most popular complicated watches for many years.
Now, the workshops are relaunching it in a format that emphasizes the brand's heritage in perpetual calendars: the Ref. 5940 in an 18K-gold cushion-shaped case. Its caliber 240 Q movement is a masterpiece of technology crafted in its entirety in the manufacture's ateliers for complicated watches. Composed of 275 individual parts, it is only 3.88 mm high, despite the fact that it is self-winding. The basic movement, Caliber 240 Q, launched in 1977, with a 22K-gold off -center mini-rotor recessed in the plate, already accounts for 2.53 mm. So merely 1.35 mm remain for the mechanical memory that spans an entire 4-year cycle and at the same time emulates the lunar orbit. The rate accuracy of the movement - responsible for timekeeping precision - is impressive as well. It ranges from -3 to +2 seconds per day as stipulated by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal for all mechanical movements with diameters of over 20 mm. This beats the values required for officially certified chronometers. This stunning rate accuracy is celebrated on a dial that deserves the attribute timelessly elegant in every respect. The Ref. 5940 has a grained, cream-colored surface that perfectly matches the gold hue of the case and is framed by a black transfer-printed railway-track minute scale that faithfully follows the contours of the bezel. Applied Breguet numerals as well as slender, leaf-shaped hands in gold indicate the time, accompanied by three subsidiary dials for the calendar displays. At 9 o'clock: the day of the week and the 24-hour dial. At 3 o'clock: the month and leap-year cycle. At 6 o'clock: the analog date and the moon phases. All indications are well organized and crisply legible, as is customary at Patek Philippe.
Because women love the notion of forever
The growing affinity of women with mechanical watches and complicated functions is among the particularly delightful trends in the domain of horology. This predilection couldn't be accomodated in a better way than by a perpetual calendar, a grand complication that qualifies as an incarnation of eternity with its functionality, lasting value, reliability across generations, timelessly elegant design, and enduring array of diamonds. The workshops' design team and the complications ateliers spared no effort to endow this complicated timepiece with an irresistibly feminine personality. All of the elements of new Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar reflect feminine poise, from the classic round Calatrava case in 18K rose gold and the gracefully curved lugs to the shimmering creamy white dial, the interchangeable mink gray and royal purple alligator straps, the lovely bezel, and the clasp set with precious diamonds that deserve to be called a girl's best friend. The dimensions of the case are also ideal for the feminine wrist. Because elegance begins with the movement, it features the legendary caliber 240 Q (see former page) assembled in the manufacture's ateliers for complicated watches.
This ultra-thin and strikingly elegant perpetual calendar model enriches Patek Philippe's collection of ladies' watches with an attractive newcomer that joins what is probably the world's most comprehensive portfolio of regularly produced complicated watches for women.
Vastly popular among women, the moonphase complication comes alive again in a perfectly proportioned timepiece with the Ref. 4968. The elegant round case with the precious white or black mother-of-pearl dial is decorated with a stunning complement of 273 diamonds that spiral around the bezel and the caseband. The new manually wound movement features a highly precise moon-phase display.
Antiquorum - Patek Philippe Calibre 89 for CHF 5,120,000
Antiquorum's anniversary sale "Celebrating 35 Years of Making History in Time" drew an impressive CHF 12,174,948 in total sales over two days this weekend at the Mandarin Oriental in Geneva. Enthusiastic bidders filled the standing-room only auction room as they anxiously bid on their timepieces of choice. Enthusiasm for the 364 exceptional timepieces coupled with excitement surrounding the caliber 89 had started to develop the moment that Antiquorum announced its intention to sell the famous watch—their cover piece for the catalog. b Internet and telephone bidding came from across the globe including Taiwan, Hong Kong, Italy, Germany and the United States in addition to the spirited bidding in the auction room. Of the 364 lots offered, an outstanding 218% was sold by value and 72% sold by lot.
The highlight of the sale was unquestionably the Patek Philippe Calibre 89—the world's most complicated and talked about timepiece. After several minutes of intense bidding in the room and on the telephone, the final bid reached an extraordinary CHF 5,120,000 - a new world record for this watch and also the most expensive watch sold in 2009 by any auction house in the world. This is the second time Antiquorum has had the pleasure of selling this unique timepiece; in 1989 Antiquorum sold the Calibre 89 in its sale celebrating the 150th anniversary of Patek Philippe for an impressive CHF 4,950,000.
"The incredible result realized for the Calibre 89 in our 35th anniversary auction indicates that the market for the most complicated and important watches in the world remains exceptionally b. We are extremely honored to have sold this exceptional and unique timepiece for the second time in Antiquorum's history and are thrilled that we have once again achieved a world record price at auction." said Robert Maron, Chairman Antiquorum.
Patek Philippe continued to be the top selling brand with several other lots achieving b prices. A substantial 312,000 CHF price was realized for the Patek Philippe Ref. 3990, a platinum and diamond wristwatch with chronograph, perpetual calendar and moon phases. In addition, the white gold Patek Philippe ref. 5102 "Celestial" brought a remarkable 228,000 CHF. Furthermore, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5041, a rare white gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar sold for a commendable 102,000 CHF
Cloisonne enamel dial timepieces, also a highlight of the sale sold extremely well as expected - the total realized for the 18-watch cloisonne collection was just over CHF 860,000. The Rolex "Caravelle", Ref. 6100 with cloisonne dial, brought an extraordinary 288,000 CHF, while the Patek Philippe Ref. 2481 in pink gold with cloisonne enamel "Tropics" dial fetched the incredible price of 234,000 CHF. Also attracting much attention, the Omega "Neptune's Chariot", an18K yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel dial, sold for a significant 66,000 CHF. In addition, the Universal "St. George and the Dragon" wristwatch in 18K pink gold with cloisonne enamel dial obtained a notable 42,000 CHF.
"We're quite pleased by the results for the collection of cloisonne timepieces in our sale," said Etienne Lemenager, Director & Watch Expert, Antiquorum. "It is evident that these extremely rare and exquisite cloisonne pieces - that are so rarely seen at auction - are in great demand by collectors worldwide as so few were ever produced.
Pocket watches were also in high demand at the November sale. The "Varicolored Gold, Diamonds & Enamel with French Calendar" pocket watch produced circa 1780 sold for 37,200 CHF, more than twice its' low estimate. Also, the "Summer Bouquet Just & Son, London, No. 2170" pocket watch made for the Chinese market circa 1860 attained an impressive 55,200 CHF, nearly twice its estimate.
Cartier also achieved excellent results in the 35th anniversary sale as confirmed by the "Platinum Split-seconds" chronograph pocket watch - the first platinum split-seconds chronograph pocket watch by Cartier without additional complication to be offered at auction and one of only two examples known to date - sold for an astounding 60,000 CHF, more than twice its' estimate. Finally, the Cartier "Tank" with London import marks from 1932-33 obtained 39,600 CHF, three times its' estimated value.
The "Top Lots" for Antiquorum's November 14th & 15th auction are as follows:
Lot 364
The Yellow Gold Calibre 89 Patek Philippe - Geneve A spectacular and unique, keyless three-barrel, double dial, astronomical and astrological 18K yellow gold watch with sidereal time, second time zone, time of sunrise and sunset, equation of time, perpetual calendar, century leap year correction, century, decade and year indication, four year cycle indication, season, equinox, solstice and Zodiac indication, star chart, phases and age of the moon, date of Easter indication, split-seconds chronograph, hour and minute recorders, Westminster chime on four gongs, "Grande and Petite Sonnerie", alarm, up/down indicators for the going and striking train, three way setting indicator, winding crown position indicator, thermometer and Tourbillon regulator.
Lot 185
Platinum Ref. 3990 Patek Philippe, Geneve. Made circa 2000. Very fine and important, astronomic, water-resistant, platinum and diamonds wristwatch with round button chronograph, register, perpetual calendar, moon phases, with sapphire crystal back.
Lot 346
Ref. 6100, "Caravelle"Cloisonne Dial Rolex, Oyster Perpetual. Made in 1952. Exceptionally rare and fine, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel galleon gold dial.
Lot 352
Ref. 2481,Tropics Cloisonne Dial Patek Philippe, Geneve. Made in 1954 and sold on October 2nd, 1956. Extremely fine and unique, one of a series of three made, center-seconds, 18K pink gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel "Tropics" dial.
Lot 363
Ref. 5102G, The Celestial Wristwatch, First Time at Auction Patek Philippe, Geneve, The Celestial Wristwatch, Ref. 5102G.Made in 2005, sold on March 17th, 2005. Extremely fine, rare and unusual, astronomic, self-winding, 18K white gold wristwatch with mean time indication, nocturnal sky chart of the Northern Hemisphere, moon phases and moon orbit, time of the meridian passage of Sirius and moon.
Lot 358
Ref. 1436 Patek Philippe & Cie, Geneve, retailed by Tiffany & Co. Made in 1969, sold on October 31, 1969. Extremely fine and rare, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with square button, co-axial split-seconds chronograph, 30-minute register, tachometer.
Lot 187
Ref.1463, Pink Gold - Pulsometer Scale Patek Philippe, Geneve. Made in 1953, sold on March 7th, 1955. Extremely fine and very rare, water-resistant, 18K pink gold doctor's wristwatch with round button chronograph, 30-minute register, pulsometer scale graduated for 15 pulsations.
Lot 186
Ref. 4767 Pink Gold "Jean-Claude Killy" Rolex,"Oyster Chronographe, Anti-magnetique".Made in 1947. Very fine and extremely rare, tonneau-shaped, water-resistant, 18K pink gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers and triple date.
Lot 278
Platinum RM003 Richard Mille, "Tourbillon RM003". Production of this reference started in 2003. Very fine, rare and very unusual, tonneau-shaped and curved, water resistant, two time zone, platinum wristwatch with visible one-minute tourbillon regulator, torque indicator, power-reserve
Lot 115
Piece Unique Schwarz Etienne, 1902, "Tourbillon Millenium", No. 1/1. Made in May 2008. Very fine and rare, oversized, water resistant, skeletonized and hand-engraved, 18K white gold wristwatch with visible one-minute tourbillon regulator
Next Antiquorum Sales - 2009:
New York: Wednesday, December 9th
[Rating: 5 / 5 stars]
Sale Price:US$259.00
Sale Price:US$279.00
Sale Price:US$288.00
Sale Price:US$259.00
Sale Price:US$259.00
Sale Price:US$238.00
Sale Price:US$268.00
Sale Price:US$288.00
Sale Price:US$279.00
Sale Price:US$249.00
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle 18 Carat White Gold Diamond Pave Dial Men's Watch 81575/V02G-9274Sale Price:US$248.00
Sale Price:US$268.00
Sale Price:US$259.00
Sale Price:US$239.00
Sale Price:US$279.00
Sale Price:US$299.00
