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Zenith - El Primero Synopsis
The new El Primero Synopsis line capitalises on a legendary movement while remaining true to several iconic Zenith signature touches. Accurately displaying the hours, minutes and small seconds at 9 o'clock, this watch beats at the rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour imparted by El Primero calibre 4613. Thanks to its distinctive dial opening highlighted by a screw-fastened applique and revealing a glimpse of its silicon components, it has never been so easy to admire this movement in action.
An avant-garde material featured in the El Primero Synopsis models, silicon represents a major breakthrough in the quest for the grail of mechanical watchmaking - namely eliminating the need for lubricants.
The lever and escape wheel of the El Primero Synopsis models are made of silicon, harder than steel - which leads to reduced wear - and far lighter - which requires less force to achieve the same result - silicon also boasts a low friction coefficient and is both anti-magnetic and corrosion-resistant. It is definitely a material with a promising future in pushing the boundaries of mechanical precision.
Listening to the swift and steady 36,000 vibrations-per-hour beat of the El Primero calibre is already a unique experience, but actually watching this fast-paced cadence in action takes things to a whole new level. That is exactly what is offered in the new El Primero Synopsis, a classic and elegant watch encapsulating the entire genetic heritage - and the vibrations - of the legendary models from the Manufacture Zenith.
A round case, a subtle dial design featuring perfect readability, together with pure lines throughout: such are the signature features of the new El Primero Synopsis by Zenith. However, what really sets it apart from its competitors is the opening revealing its exceptional mechanical heart. The pink gold or steel 40 mm case frames an appealing silver-toned dial affording a view over the escapement of the exceptional "engine" throbbing inside: El Primero Calibre 4613.
A sapphire crystal ensures a truly beautiful view from both sides of the dial. These aesthetic virtues are backed by the reliability of a case that is water-resistant to 100 metres and fitted with a screw-lock crown, together with seamless case and wristband integration guaranteeing remarkably ergonomic comfort.
Concern for details extends all the way to the screw-fastened applique framing the opening, and to the 12 rhodiumed facetted and superluminova-coated hour-markers ensuring a perfect display of the hours and minutes, swept over by two hands, while the seconds are ticked off by a blued trident hand whirling over the mechanism revealed at 9 o'clock.
No less than 160 parts drive its mechanical automatic movement, El Primero Calibre 4613. Like all El Primero calibres, it beats at the exceptional frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, meaning 10 vibrations - a fast-paced clearly rhythm visible through the dial opening.
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Zenith - Montre d'aeronef Type 20 «40 mm lady»
As ever a forerunner in its chosen field, Zenith became right from the early 20th century one of the first companies to produce flight instruments to equip the planes and airships of the first aviation pioneers. The Manufacture thus earned the status of a must-have companion for these skyborne adventurers who reached what then seemed unreachable stars. Louis Bleriot had his Zenith watch firmly strapped to his watch when he flew over the Channel in 1909, as did Leon Morane who a year later became the first pilot ever to fly at a speed of more than 100 km/h.
In the 1930s and 1940s, the Montre d'Aeronef Zenith Type 20 equipped a number of aircraft, including the famous Caudron Simoun C.635 planes used by the French airforce for training purposes, and by the Air Bleu postal company for international and transatlantic routes. Decades later, the contemporary Pilot Montre d'Aeronef has learned lessons from the past to represent a modern-day embodiment of precision and reliability.
The new Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 "40 mm Lady" is no exception to the rule. It features a generous 40 mm case equipped with a ratcheted crown evoking historical aviator watches, while the Zenith Flying Instruments logo engraved on the case-back serves as an unequivocal reminder of the origins of this timepiece.
The models comes in four versions: a full-set version, in rose or white gold, and a case-set version, in rose gold or steel. In the full-set versions, the dial, bezel and lugs are adorned with 491 diamonds (approx. 3 carats). The Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 "40 mm Lady" showcases the original large Arabic numerals made from blocks of SuperLuminova to ensure optimal readability in even the most extreme situations.
Beneath this composition water-resistant to 100 metres beats the automatic Elite 681 movement driving a small seconds subdial at 9 o'clock. A beige or black satin strap fitted with a pin buckle sets the finishing touch to these models.
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Zenith - Jean-Frederic Dufour, "Man of the Year"
A Watch in His Cradle
The man of the year was born with a watch in his cradle. His family includes a long line, indeed a collection, of Geneva engineers and industrialists. His grandfather was the inventor of the valveless engines used to power the famous Pic-Pic. Even before he took over at Zenith, Jean-Frederic Dufour dreamed of the company. Let's not forget that the watchmakers at Le Locle have the legendary El Primero as their heritage, the watch with the most precise movement in the world, the only standard caliber to tick at a rate of ten vibrations per second, while others effect only eight vibrations in the same second. Jean-Frederic Dufour made the minute precision of this exceptional system visible on the dial, creating the Zenith Striking 10th.
Straight to the Top
Jean-Frederic Dufour's career path has been a straight line to the top. He began his profession at Chopard, where he learned the importance of visiting all the international markets in person, in order to get a sense of the trends. He was then hired by Ulysse Nardin, where he discovered a passion for technical aspects. In 2000, he met Jean-Claude Biver and helped him develop the Leon Hatot brand: "Working with Jean-Claude Biver was the most rewarding and most important experience of my career," J.-F. Dufour said upon receiving the award. He then returned to Chopard, overseeing product development, before taking over as head of Zenith in June 2009. The CEO of Hublot, Jean-Claude Biver, summarizes Jean-Frederic Dufour's work at Zenith: "He was able to reconnect the brand to its roots."
Reconnecting Zenith to Its Roots
The Le Locle firm has considerable technical and creative potential; in 146 years of existence, it has registered 297 patents and racked up numerous watchmaking awards: 2,333 prizes in all, making it the most highly awarded brand for instrument panel clocks, wristwatches and pocket-watches. Possessor of a skipper's license, Jean-Frederic Dufour knows what course he needs to chart and as the captain, he knows how to motivate his crew. The route will be a high-tech one: "Zenith is one of the very few companies that produces all the components for a watch, plus it is the only one to have mastered high frequencies and be able to divide mechanical time into tenths of a second. As the guardians of this rich tradition, we will perpetuate it and constantly reinvent it."
Back and Forth on the Markets
Like the El Primero calibers and their incessant and regular back-and-forth movements, Jean-Frederic Dufour travels to and fro between his international markets. He regularly visits every one of the brand's retailers, all around the world. In Singapore in December, Jean-Frederic Dufour received two awards from the magazine Revolution: "Best Men's watch" and "Rising Star Award" recognizing the El Primero Striking 10th watch and Zenith.
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Antiquorum - The National Multiple Sclerosis Society
Watch enthusiasts poured into Antiquorum's auction room Wednesday evening, October 20th to get a closer look at and bid on the outstanding timepieces offered at the Mission: MS sale, the first of a planned annual watch auction, organized by Philip Duffell and conducted by Antiquorum Auctioneers benefiting The National Multiple (MS) Sclerosis Society. Antiquorum together with Mission: MS raised an exceptional $ 253,000 for research and programs funded by The National MS Society whose mission is to create a world free of MS. Active bidding came from all over the world including from the Russian Federation, China, Hong Kong, Italy, Switzerland, Germany as well as the United States.
"We are delighted to have raised $ 253,000 tonight for the first Mission: MS auction. The proceeds from this evening's sale will support ground-breaking research and important programs funded by The National MS Society. We would like to thank all the participants whose support have made this auction a spectacular success and help spread awareness across the globe," said Evan Zimmermann, President & CEO, Antiquorum.
MS is a chronic disease of the central nervous system for which there is no cure. Every hour someone is diagnosed with this disease. MS interrupts the flow of information between the brain and the body and can stop people from moving. For some, this means living with unpredictable symptoms that can come and go, like numbness and blurred vision. For others, there is more permanent damage, like paralysis. "I am overwhelmed by the outpouring of support for the first of what will be many Mission MS: Watch Auctions", says Philip Duffell, Founder of Mission: MS. "Because of the generosity of the brands participating and the incredible support from Antiquorum, this year's event has been a true success and will help change the lives of those living with multiple sclerosis."
The highlight of the sale was the highly anticipated Hublot "Piece Unique Big Bang Aero" designed by Hublot's North American Sales Director Michael Margolis . The unique, semi-skeletonized, ceramic 18K gold chronograph sold for $23,000 after heated bidding between the internet and phone bidders.
In addition, the Zenith was also in demand at the Mission: MS auction. There was fierce competition for the newly released El Primero Striking 10th "Jean - Louis Etienne" no. 1/500 . Ultimately, the world's first automatic chronograph capable of registering 1/10th second increments sold for $10,000 to an internet bidder.
Also of interest was the A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moonphase . The exquisitely made wristwatch featuring an off-center hour dial, oversized date, power-reserve indication and continuously driven moon phase achieved $19,000 for the National MS Society.
IWC also obtained a noteworthy result for its Portuguese Chronograph Limited Edition watch . The large self-winding stainless steel wristwatch with chronograph and register sold for $ 6,400.
Wempe also did well in the sale with the Zeitmeister Limited Edition No. 088/100. The limited edition ceramic chronometer with chronograph, register and tachometer obtained $4000 at the charity auction.
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Zenith - Avant-Premiere Back to the Roots
WORLDTEMPUS - January 18, 2010
Jean-Frederic Dufour, new CEO of Zenith since June 2009, was visibly pleased to present some pieces from Zenith's brand-new collection eight full weeks before Baselworld opens its doors on March 18. Dufour explained that he was very interested in getting some feedback on the new wristwatches at this point in time.
"We do still have some more surprises for Basel," Dufour explained with a sly grin at the cocktail party given in Geneva in the new timepieces' honor.
The funny thing about these wristwatches is that they present a decided deja vu: some look as if they could have belonged to an original collection from 1969 or so — until you get a good look under the hood. The showpiece of the evening was only available to view virtually, but certainly expresses the high-tech position of the back-to-the-roots collection: an El Primero based chronograph featuring a sweep foudroyante second hand boasting measurements of one-tenth of a second. Unassumingly retro from the outside, the second hand is directly linked to a silicon escape wheel. "I am most proud of this one, actually," Dufour commented.
Praise for the new head
Introducing the evening festivities, Dufour was joined by LVMH colleague and a man he cites a mentor to him: Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot. Biver did not hesitate to praise Dufour's skill in getting this collection together in the space of only six months; nothing in the 2010 collection had been taken over from Dufour's predecessor as head of Zenith, Thierry Nataf. Dufour started completely from scratch in defining his new-old vision of the reputable manufacture. During this period of six months, he also traveled the globe to visit Zenith's various branches and understand customer wishes.
Elite 681
A shining example of the new collection is the Elite 681 Ultra Thin. Clearly drawing on the brand's mechanical heritage, this 18-karat rose gold or stainless steel model is outfitted with the automatic extra-flat Elite caliber 681, which comes in at 3.81 mm in height. Its understated elegance confirms Zenith's future, which is fairly analogue to its past: mechanical and aesthetic purity - particularly at "normal" prices - never go out of style.
[Rating: 5 / 5 stars]
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