Zenith - Les Gardes-Temps de Legende in Geneva
With over 600 movement variations, 300 patents and some 2,333 chronometry prizes to its credit in a century and a half of existence, the Manufacture Zenith definitely has what it takes to offer a journey through time.
It is in the superb setting of its Geneva Boutique, opened at the end of 2011, that Zenith has chosen to present a small section of the most exceptional timepieces from the Manufacture Zenith.
Authentic skill exercised by exceptional artisans for whom precision and quality are a guiding philosophy; creative daring that has enabled Zenith to make all known horological complications and to develop new ones; and finally, transcendent pleasure shared by those who acquire watches from the brand. All these values are concentrated inside some of the brand's most precious or most legendary models down through time.
The treasures on show include an exceptional model: an early 20th century 18K gold minute repeater hunter-type watch equipped with a wide variety of functions: 60-second chronograph, complete calendar showing the date, day, month and moon phases, along with small seconds at 6 o'clock.
The exhibition also features the first Zenith tourbillon model: a 1920 pocket watch with a beautifully finished movement equipped with a Guillaume tourbillon and clearly visible through the back.
Visitors will also be able to admire the brand's first GMT model. In 1955, the Zenith military type hand-wound chronograph asserted its pioneering spirit by providing a so-called world-time function enabling the owner to tell the time around the globe at a glance. Equipped with a chronograph function complete with sweep seconds hand and a 45-minute counter at 3 o'clock, the watch displays the small seconds at 9 o'clock. The cities of the world symbolising its time zones surround a chapter ring swept over by vintage-style hands.
Another noteworthy item is a steel hand-wound chronograph produced in the early 1960s for the A. Cairelli company that was a historical supplier to the Italian Air Force. This model is engraved on the back with the inscription "Tipo CP-2" which confirms its military use. The black dial bearing two counters at 9 and 3 o'clock plays on contrasting effects with luminescent hands and numerals. A 60-minute rotating bezel lends a modern touch within a generous 45 mm-diameter case that preserves the movement from the effects of magnetic fields. Its movement, Calibre 146 DP, was made in the Zenith workshops in Ponts-de-Martel. Greatly appreciated for its readability and user-friendliness, this chronograph produced in a run of 2,500 has become an iconic model much sought-after by collectors. The military version used by the Italian military until the early 1980s bears the initials AMI (Aeronautica Militare Italiana) or MM (Marina Militare) on the caseback, followed by an inventory number.
Another not-to-be-missed piece is the watch that belonged to aviation pioneer Louis Bleriot: an early 20th century pilot's wristwatch: "I am very satisfied with the Zenith watch, which I regularly use, and I cannot recommend it too highly to people who are looking for precision." Such were the words written by Louis Bleriot on March 19th 1912. Featuring luminous hands and numerals ensuring optimal readability, his Zenith watch is equipped with a crown that could be easily operated even when wearing gloves; while the temporal information is complemented by a seconds counter at 6 o'clock.
Finally, the unmistakable star of the exhibition is the first El Primero wristwatch, Calibre 3019 PHC, a model dating from 1969, the year the collection was launched. As a front-runner in the field of high frequency, Zenith made its mark on watchmaking history by presenting the first fully integrated chronograph automatic winding movement in 1969. Establishing itself as the world's most accurate series-made mechanical calibre, beating a frequency of 10 vibrations per second to measure 1/10ths of a second, it gave rise to the legendary El Primero chronograph. Moreover, this unprecedented mechanical feat was not the only distinguishing feature of the chronograph introduced over 40 years ago by the Manufacture Zenith. In 1969, at a time when monochrome dials were the prevailing trend, El Primero model also stood out for its multi-hued dial bearing three counters in different colours and a red chronograph sweep seconds hand for enhanced readability.