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Top Quality Rolex 40.00 mm Watches (319) Items
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Top Quality Rolex 40.00 mm Watches (319) Items
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  • Foreword - A quarter-century in resolutely feminine mode

    Exuding a free-spirited, independent, impetuous, innovative, welcoming, soft, comfortable and elegant aura for the past 25 years, the SIHH certainly qualifi es for a number of adjectives typically associated with the fair sex. The SIHH will be celebrating its quarter- century in January 2015, and like countless other women, it has left an indelible imprint on the measurement of time.

    Women have constantly and variously served as the poet's secret muse, the artist's precious inspiration, the politician's wise advisor or the musician's perceptive shadow. They have occupied a prime role in History, whether in the spotlight or in the background, consistently exercising authentic infl uence, whether deliberately or not. Nor should one forget that women have been, still are and always will be the great civilizing power in the world! Horology is no exception to the rule and its history has been regularly punctuated by women. The latter notably inspired wristwatches and were the fi rst to wear them : from Elizabeth I of England to the dainty jewelry models of the Directory and Empire periods, right the way through to Mercedes Gleitze who swam across the channel with a Rolex Oyster watch on her wrist.

    Today, if "woman is the future of man" as the French poet Aragon famously proclaimed in 1952, women's watches are undoubtedly the future of the watch itself. 25 years ago, in taking on the seemingly crazy challenge of creating the fi rst show dedicated to Fine Watchmaking in Geneva, the cradle of the industry, the SIHH endowed Haute Horlogerie with its authentically global dimension. Ever since, year after year, it has been setting the tone for watch trends, catalyzing ceaselessly renewed and perpetuated innovations, expertise and skills. It is endowed with a unique ability to unite, to share, to love and to spread the love. Because the SIHH is feminine to the core !
    Fabienne Lupo
    Chairwoman and Managing Director of the SIHH

  • Collecting - Vintage Value Equation (3)


    WORLDTEMPUS - 16 August 2012

    Dials deserve special mention when talking about the originality of vintage watches because, in my opinion, an original dial comprises approximately half to three-quarters of the watch's overall value. For example, a vintage Rolex Daytona with a normal original dial is worth only half of the same watch with an original Paul Newman dial. A Rolex Submariner from the 1950s with its original unmodified dial is worth double the same watch with a later Rolex replacement dial. Naturally, very few such early watches survive to this day with original perfect-condition dials, but such pristine original dials exist. These perfect watches command a substantial price premium over watches with degraded, but otherwise original, dials. Degraded original dials command more value than OEM (original equipment maker) replacement dials.

    I mentioned last week how dials can be modified for aesthetic or functional reasons - known in the jargon as re-painted, as re-dialed, re-lumed, etc. - and dials that fall into this category have the least value. Fake dials, fairly prevalent on otherwise valuable original watches, have no value and are considered a serious demerit to the watch for obvious reasons. However, the other real parts of the watch have value, which is to be remembered for the serious collector who may have a collection of original parts accumulated over many years, which he or she can combine to form a watch comprising all original parts. So-called "put-together" watches are less than optimal because they are not original. As the years go by, however, and parts and/or entire watches get damaged, discarded or become otherwise unavailable, these spare original parts can result in a complete original watch that would otherwise be a broken or less-than-original watch. 


    It's not surprising that the dial is the most important part of the watch because the dial is how the wearer interacts with the watch. A compromise with the dial is a compromise in the enjoyment of the watch, and ultimately in its value.
    Cases and movements are also often less than completely original and, again, this can be for various reasons. Both are still critical factors in arriving at the value of a watch, however. Ideally, both the entirety of the case and movement will be original. Hopefully, the movement will have been serviced over the years and be running. If the movement needed or needs parts, OEM parts are preferred. However, the bottom line is that the watch is running. An original movement with some non-original parts is preferred to a broken movement that doesn't run. In more complicated watches, especially vintage Rolex Daytonas, the movements are sometimes not original. Vintage Daytonas were powered by Valjoux movements that were commonly found in other quality chronographs of the era. A vintage Daytona may have the Valjoux movement numbers 72B, 722, 722-1 or 727. Rolex made their own modifications to these movements and, of course, engraved the bridges. Given the value of vintage Daytonas, resourceful crooks have "put together" vintage Daytonas using real Valjoux movements from non-Rolex watches (without the Rolex modifications or with faked modifications), and a combination of other real or faked parts. Watch cases are not usually counterfeited, but you may find a Universal Geneve case masquerading as a Daytona case.


    One other point needs to be made about cases and movements: Rolex stocks replacement cases and replacement movements for watches received for servicing with irretrievably compromised parts. These cases often have a distinct serial number starting with the numeral 44. Likewise, the movement in a vintage watch may be a replacement movement if the original was rusted or somehow destroyed. Knowing which movements belong in which watch is a matter of experience and building an excellent resource library; so many part numbers can get confusing for anyone.
    The condition of the watch is the next most important variable in determining the watch's value, and sellers grade condition. Some sellers will use a number scale with 100 percent condition meaning the watch is as perfect as new. Other sellers use words like mint, mint+, near mint, excellent, etc. I like to believe most sellers make an honest attempt to describe their watches accurately. Not surprisingly, the seller often describes the condition of the watch more optimistically than the buyer will describe it once receiving it. So if you are buying a watch, make the guarded assumption that the seller's condition assessment is probably optimistic.
    Obviously, the better the condition of the watch, the more valuable it is. As such, there are some specific things to pay attention to and there are tradeoffs. Every collector has to decide what is most important to him or her in this regard.


    Specifically, when a watch case leaves a factory it is new, shiny and not diminished from being polished. Some collectors put a premium on a watch that has been polished so that its surfaces are clean enough to give the appearance of being like new. Other collectors prioritize originality over appearance. A watch case has a specific finish when it is new, and many watches have a combination of alternating finishes like mirror-polished, matte, sandblasted, or brushed surfaces. If a watch returns to its manufacturer for service, the watchmakers will restore the original finish, which is important. Using Rolex once again as an example, many Oyster cases are brushed on the top surfaces of the case, mirror-polished on the sides, and the case back is mirror-polished on its outer ring and brushed in the center. The center may be concentrically or laterally brushed. Send a watch to Rolex for service and it will come back looking perfect.
    However, careless watchmakers have ruined hundreds of thousands of watches by applying a mono-finish when working on a case. I have seen far too many fully mirror-polished Rolex cases and all brush-finished Panerai cases that should have been polished. Fortunately, this is reversible, but remember: each and every time a watch case is polished, metal is eroded and lost forever. Also, check the case for serial and model numbers and other engraving or printing that should be on the watch. All should be crisp and legible. Many cases have been polished to the point where original markings are either illegible or removed altogether. On precious metal watch cases, look to make sure that the metal's hallmarks are present. If you are looking at what appears to be a gold or platinum watch, the case should have hallmarks. Finding a crisp, deep hallmark means the case is both made of the metal it purports to be made from and has only been lightly or never polished.

    Related stories:

    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (1)
    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (2)

    COLLECTING - Vintage Value Equation (4)

  • Dubois & Depraz - At the Service of Brands


    Revue FH - 27 October 2011

    Nestled in the heart of the Joux Valley, the firm Dubois Depraz designs, develops and constructs additional movements for watch complications for some of the greatest names in watchmaking, including Patek Philippe, Breitling, Rolex, Omega, Richard Mille, etc. Be it chronographs with multiple indications (with or without perpetual calendar), special mechanisms indicating days, months, leap years, moon phases, sunset and sunrise, the equation of time, tides, timezones, jumping-dials, governors, mechanisms for regattas, watches for polo, as well as minute, quarter and five-minute repeaters, extra-flat mechanisms, etc, the world of complications no longer holds any secrets for Dubois Depraz. Around fifty brands currently employ the services of the firm, which is ready to rise to any challenge thrown down to it.


    110 years of history have led Dubois Depraz on the path to their present success. On 1st January 1901, Marcel Depraz set up his first watchmaking workshop in Le Lieu, at number 12, Grand-Rue, over the family baker's shop. Ten years later, with a view to increasing his firm's capacity, he teamed up with his brotherin- law Marius Guignard. Together, they set up a second company: Depraz & Guignard. Marcel's children, Gabrielle and Roger, also joined the family business. In 1937, Marcel Depraz decided to strengthen his two companies and employed his son-in-law Reynold Dubois. Results were not long in coming, with the rapid launch of the 13 3/4 chronograph calibre. This master stroke saw the production of more than 4.5 million movements up to the 1970s. In 1947, the two firms merged under the name Depraz & Cie. In 1956, Gerald Dubois, a young watchmaking engineer and father of the two present-day directors, set up a research and development design office.
    Eleven years later the world's first modular chronograph was born, the 11-12 Chronomatic calibre. This invention was awarded the diploma and silver medal at the Brussels Inventors Show in 1969. Meanwhile, Depraz & Cie changed its company name to Dubois Depraz SA.


    In the 1970s, despite the economic difficulties, the firm presented another world first, a mechanical chronograph with an analogue display featuring an electronic tuning-fork movement. In parallel, it diversified and embarked on the production of mechanical and quartz chronographs fitted as standard on aircraft and cars. Despite these launches, the crisis proved too b for the partnership between the two directors and in 1979 Gerald Dubois purchased the buildings and continued the adventure alone. In 1983, after several years of research, Dubois Depraz launched the calibre 2000 chronograph which could be adapted to all mechanical or quartz movements. This innovative concept caused a sensation in the watchmaking world and even today remains one of the firm's flagship products (around two million have been manufactured to date).
    In 1987, Jean-Philippe Dubois, the current CEO, joined the company. He was followed five years later by his brother Pascal, who was appointed as director. Finally, in 2006, they acquired one of their suppliers, DPRM (Decolletage pignons et roues manufacture), located in Arch (canton of Bern).


    In the course of these eleven decades, Dubois Depraz accumulated a huge wealth of expertise that was passed on from generation to generation. Even today the firm holds the secret of certain manufacturing phases no longer used by anyone else in the watchmaking world. An example is «tribofinishing», the process which consists in deburring and polishing pieces in a single operation. This involves turning pieces from one to seven days in sealed cylinders of different sizes, according to the desired end result. The media inside the rollers consist of different materials (copper, ceramic or plastic), special soap and polishing powder. Although the processes of deburring and polishing are widespread in the watch industry, Dubois Depraz's secret lies in the dosing of components and the length of the operation.


    Manufacturing secrets alone would be worth nothing without skill, hard work, and the precision and quality of products delivered by Dubois Depraz. Today, 220 people in the Joux Valley and 50 in Arch work industriously under the roof of this independent family business.

  • Tennis & Timepieces - A Watch Connoisseur in Paris


    WORLDTEMPUS - 27 May 2011

    During the Australian Open in January, Robin Söderling was asked what people would be most surprised to know about him. The Swede, currently number five in tennis's world rankings, answered, "Probably that I love watches."
    For insiders, this wasn't a big revelation. The two-time French Open finalist is a true aficionado and always wears interesting timepieces on his wrist. He's not the only one, but he is a man who likes "different" watches. "If you walk around the tennis tour, everybody seems to have a nice watch - but I don't really like the obvious ones. In the beginning, maybe yes, but then to have a good brand or a nice model that not many others have is a pretty nice feeling. These are the types of watches you find when reading a lot of watch magazines," he says before jokingly adding, "Well, half of what I read about watches I don't even understand, but I still think it's cool and I try to learn!"
    The more Söderling learns about watches, the more careful he is about choosing his next timepiece: "I never go out just to buy a watch, I never decide on the spot - I always like to look at different watches and to think about it. I buy them as a reward. I always think that the next time I win a tournament I'm going to buy that particular watch I've been thinking about."

    Time to Kill

    His reward doesn't have to be related to a tournament win, actually. A year ago, after beating Tomas Berdych in the semifinals at Roland Garros, he got the Hublot Big Bang he'd been eyeing. When will he get his next timepiece? Maybe soon. Söderling is back in Paris trying to at least emulate his killer performances of the past two years, where he ended two outstanding Rafael Nadal and Roger Federer records: in 2009, in the fourth round, he beat Nadal and still is the only player to have ever beaten the Spaniard at the French Open. In 2010, he overcame Federer in the quarterfinals, ending the Swiss champion's incredible run of 23 consecutive semifinals at Grand Slam tournaments.
    Federer is a well-known Rolex ambassador, whereas Nadal has caused quite a sensation sporting ultra-expensive Richard Mille timepieces, from the $550,000 RM027 tourbillon he wore last year as his good-luck charm to his new RM035. And Roland Garros is sponsored by Longines. Söderling is still thinking about a possible sponsorship and looking at different brands, but he won't rush; he never has when it comes to watches.
    "Good watches are expensive. When I was young and started to win more matches, I really felt I could buy a good watch and I wanted to have a Rolex - and actually the first really nice watch I bought was a pre-owned steel Daytona chronograph that I saw in a shop in London in 2006. I still like it a lot, but these days it's my girlfriend Jenni who has been wearing it; it became a bit small for me, but I reckon small and thin watches are back."


    He didn't have to buy the second good timepiece of his collection. "I got a gold Bulgari Diagono Professional Diving as a gift from the tournament in Bastad - they were happy I played there for so many years, and I was really happy with the present." During this very interview, Söderling is wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Volcano, also known as "The Jarno Trulli."
    "I bought it during the U.S. Open in 2009," he says. That year, in New York, he had been undecided between the Royal Oak Offshore and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm. Then he opted for the Volcano.
    Deep Purple, Hard Rock
    There's a watch in his collection that Soderling particularly appreciates and whose b looks match his powerful "hard-rock" style of tennis: a Graham Chronofighter Oversize Diver "Deep Purple." "I had been looking at Graham, because Thomas Johansson has a friend who owns a watch store in London and they sell Graham - he showed them to me a few years ago." The "Deep Purple" is a stunning limited edition of 500 pieces of the Chronofighter Oversize Diver in black-and-purple. It perfectly embodies the Swedish star's taste for niche brands and exquisite, sporty timepieces. "When my girlfriend Jenni and I went on vacation last December, we went diving a lot and I really wanted to test it, so I brought the Graham along."
    At the Estoril Open in Portugal, Söderling took the time to visit a small watch exhibition by tournament sponsors Boutique dos Relógios in the VIP area. There he appreciated some fine timepieces from several top brands - from Richard Mille to IWC. "For a man, a watch truly is the best thing," he says. "I don't really like earrings or necklaces or bracelets, so a watch is the best accessory and a way of expression for a man."


    And what better way to express himself than wearing a fabulous Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept at the photo shoot for the cover of King magazine? "They brought it from a watch store in Stockholm called Nymans Ur; it's a really nice store where they sell some incredible watches...unfortunately they didn't let me keep it after the shooting was over."
    Maybe he'll get it if he finally wins Roland Garros. It won't be easy; he is on collision course with Nadal, who he is expected to face in a blockbuster quarterfinal. In six appearances at the French Open, the Spaniard has won the title five times - and Söderling was the only one to defeat him on Paris's slow red clay courts. If and when they face each other, time will surely stand still for all tennis (and watch!) aficionados.

  • Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Explorer II


    Exploration is a state of mind. It takes courage, resolve and an unquenchable thirst for discovery to always seek to go higher, farther, where no one has trod before. To mountain tops. To the extremities of the poles. To the depths of the Earth. To the edge of volcanic craters.

    The watch of adventure
    The Oyster Perpetual Explorer model was born of this very state of mind. On 29 May 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Mount Everest in the course of an expedition equipped with Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches. The Explorer model was created in homage to this historic achievement - and to accompany other such achievements. Since then, Rolex has continuously tested and improved the precision, robustness and reliability of its watches in the most extreme environments on the planet. Pushing technical boundaries to accommodate ever more demanding human adventures.
    From polar ice to the magma of the Earth
    Another step forward was taken in 1971 with the creation of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II. With its highly legible dial, the introduction of the date, a 24-hour hand and a fixed graduated bezel, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II opened new horizons for exploration and became the new reference for professional adventurers and explorers of our planet. It proved itself on the wrist of volcanologist Haroun Tazieff and formed an essential part of the equipment of numerous polar expeditions. Its 24-hour display allows speleologists and polar explorers to distinguish day from night, making the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II an indispensable timekeeper.

    Rebirth 40 years later
    Exactly 40 years after its launch, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II has been updated to reach new heights of dependability. This new model combines technical innovations and a return to aesthetic sources. Its case, enlarged to 42 mm, houses the new calibre 3187 entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex. The movement includes the most recently patented technologies of the brand, such as the PARAFLLEX shock absorbers and the non-magnetic PARACHROM hairspring, ensuring unparalleled reliability and shock resistance. The bracelet is equipped with a new OYSTERLLOCK clasp with safety catch and the EASYLLINK comfort extension link. On the dial, the 24-hour hand has returned to the arrow shape and the orange colour of the original 1971 model. The hour and minute hands are broader and more legible, and, on the black-dial version, their black base blends with the black dial to create a "phantom effect". The luminescent sections of the hands seem to float over the dial - another nod to the historic model.
    The "jumping" hour hand can be set independently, providing a GMT function (second time zone), in conjunction with the 24-hour hand and bezel.
    With its extremely robust construction, its exceptional chronometric performance and its legendary reliability, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is the ideal instrument to push the boundaries of the world. And continually expand your own horizons.

  • Baselworld - Expectations


    WORLDTEMPUS - 22 March 2011

    Expect to see hordes of people, nose flat on the doors before the fair opens. These people will most likely rush to Rolex's showcases and Tweet and blog their blurry pictures in order to be the very first to show the new products from the world's most famous watch brand. Even the tiniest changes to existing references will have readers of the online forums and blogs oooohing and aaaahing. Such is the world of Rolex fans - every year.

    Rolex

    Personally, I can wait for my presentation of the Rolex news, but I do expect to see a new Explorer II. At the very least, there should be a new dial and hand configuration. Rumor has it that this new Explorer II was all set for launching last year, but for some reason Rolex decided to wait another year. We shall see.
    I also expect to see an all-steel version of the Rolex Submariner No-Date in the maxi case with ceramic bezel inlay. It would only be a natural evolution for Rolex to add this model to the "maxi case" sports collection.
    Breitling
    Breitling introduced its in-house B01 movement two years ago, and the famed watch brand has since introduced a couple of models sporting this new movement. I expect to see more models using this new movement, and probably not only B01 and Navitimer models.Patek Philippe
    It is always a great pleasure to visit the enormous Patek Philippe stand in Hall 1. Even if you can't get inside for a presentation, the showcases surrounding the outside of the luxurious booth present the horological luxury that Patek Philippe does so well. The Nautilus collection is growing and it would be nice to see a gold version on a bracelet instead of a strap. This goes for the three-hander as well as the complicated models.

    Hermes

    Thanks to the recent dialogue between LVMH and the Hermes management, I certainly look forward to getting a closer look at the new watches from Hermes. I have never paid much attention to the watches from this company, but the "We are not in luxury; we are in quality" remark made by Bernard Puech, president of the board of directors of Hermes, when LVMH recently purchased 17.7 percent of the shares in the company makes it extra interesting to see if the watches are also part of this "quality."

    Bulgari

    In one breath, Italian luxury provider Bulgari also became part of the LVMH family when the group purchased 51 percent of the family-owned company. Will the Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta designs still feature Bulgari on the dial or will LVMH break the ties that were such a topic last year? Maybe it is too early to find out, as the takeover is rather recent. But, then again, maybe we can find out.
    Either way, this is bound to be an interesting year at Basel. Stay tuned to Worldtempus for the coverage.

  • Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date

    The quintessential divers' watch, the absolute reference in its genre, the Submariner has expanded its horizons far beyond the element of its birth in 1953, while denying nothing of its aquatic origins.
    At home in the depths of the oceans, a universe in which it remains the basic instrument of every diver, it long ago conquered terra firma, as the watch of action.
    Waterproof to 100, 200, then 300 metres as it successively evolved since its launch, the Submariner has always been the symbol of Rolex's supremacy in waterproofness.


    New features
    Timeless and impervious to the elements, it is today available in a steel version sporting new features. Its 40 mm case in 904L steel, synonymous with robustness, waterproofness and corrosion resistance, boasts a new rotatable bezel fitted with a practically scratchproof black Cerachrominsert — or green for themodel with the green dial — with platinum graduations.
    Penumbra and soft light
    As much in its element in the penumbra of the ocean floor as in the soft light of sophistication, this new Submariner Date offers exceptional legibility thanks to hour markers and hands coated with luminescent Chromalight. Its mechanical movement equipped with a Perpetual rotor and a Parachrom hairspring pledges increased chronometric precision and reliability. Its unidirectional rotatable graduated bezel allows the safe reading of dive time.


    A power of seduction that never goes out of style
    This new model is no stranger to comfort. The Rolex Glidelock clasp allows for fine adjustments of the bracelet length. On land as at sea, watch and wearer are bound by the emotional charge deriving from the Submariner's irresistible power of seduction.

    REFERENCE (CASE / BRACELET): 116610 LN / 97200
    Case
    Diameter: 40 mm
    Material: 904L steel
    Bezel: unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated
    with black Cerachrom insert, platinum graduations
    Winding crown: Triplock
    shoulders to protect the crown
    Crystal: sapphire, Cyclops lens with anti-reflective coating
    Waterproofness: 300 m (1,000 ft)
    Movement
    Calibre: 3135
    Self-winding: Perpetual rotor
    Date: instantaneous change and rapid setting
    Oscillator: frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour)
    Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil
    Precision: COSC-certified chronometer
    Power reserve: ~48 hours
    Dial
    Hour markers: luminescent Chromalight
    Hands: luminescent Chromalight
    Bracelet
    Material: 904L steel
    Type: Oyster
    Clasp: Rolex Glidelock

  • Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Explorer

    So many attempts were necessary before Everest was finally conquered. It was 29 May 1953 and the heroes of the day, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay, were wearing Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches. So many expeditions all seeking to achieve a proverbially impossible dream, motivated by the simple desire to meet a challenge: "Because it's there…"
    In praise of perseverance
    The direct descendent of this fascinating chapter of human adventure, the Explorer persists in expressing man's irrepressible need for achievement. It continues to precisely embody perseverance, experience and creativity, and celebrate so strikingly the relationships between technical developments, experience in the field, thought and action.


    The world as a test laboratory
    The Explorer is the incarnation of the privileged relationship that has always existed between Rolex and the outside world. Since the late 1920s, Rolex has been using the world as a laboratory to test its watches under real conditions. In this pioneering spirit, it equipped numerous Himalayan expeditions whose observations have had a direct impact on product development.
    A 39 mm case
    Faithful to its heritage and unique identity, the new Oyster Perpetual Explorer exemplifies that strength in today's world, imparting a new elan to the sober and elegant lines which have long established it as an icon. Crafted from a block of 904L steel with exceptional anti-corrosion properties, its slightly larger 39 mm case offers a bolder look and added comfort for the wearer.


    New heights in precision
    Equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement featuring a Perpetual rotor, a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers, it reaches new heights of chronometric precision and resistance to extreme conditions. A reliable and robust timekeeping instrument.

Rolex 40.00 mm

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